Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:25 AM - Florida visit (Bruce Uvanni)
2. 06:50 AM - Re: Florida visit (Pat Hatch)
3. 07:11 AM - Re: Florida visit (RV8ter@aol.com)
4. 07:46 AM - Re: Anodizing (Dr. Leathers)
5. 08:17 AM - Re: Anodizing (Gert)
6. 08:20 AM - Re: Rocket-List: RE AWOL in the White House TO_ADDRESS_EQ_REAL (JOHN STARN)
7. 08:53 AM - Re: Flop tube - time to install (C. Rabaut)
8. 09:07 AM - empennage tip attachment (Charlie & Tupper England)
9. 09:48 AM - Re: RE AWOL (rv6tc)
10. 09:52 AM - Re: graftable ram air inlet (rmickey@ix.netcom.com)
11. 11:11 AM - What Listers Are Saying III (Matt Dralle)
12. 11:30 AM - What Listers Are Saying III (Matt Dralle)
13. 01:09 PM - Greenlee Dies ()
14. 03:15 PM - Re: Anodizing (Dana Overall)
15. 03:31 PM - S-Tec 30 testing woes.... (Ralph E. Capen)
16. 04:01 PM - Re: Anodizing/heat treating (Evan and Megan Johnson)
17. 05:30 PM - Re: Anodizing/heat treating (Gert)
18. 05:48 PM - test (Don Mei)
19. 06:03 PM - Wanted: Fiberglass 101 Video (Jack Lockamy)
20. 06:57 PM - Pre-owned tools for sale? (Randy Richter)
21. 07:59 PM - Re: empennage tip attachment(long) (Darwin N. Barrie)
22. 11:23 PM - Rv-list spark Plugs (smoothweasel@juno.com)
Message 1
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28, 2003) at 11/28/2003 09:24:42
--> RV-List message posted by: Bruce Uvanni <buvanni@us.ibm.com>
Listers: Weather permitting, I plan on flying down to
Florida early December to visit my parents. They live
in Satellite Beach. My question is, Which airport is better to fly into:
Merritt Island or Melbourne. Does anyone down there have extra
space in a hanger for a n RV-6A? If not which airport would be safer
to have the plane tied down at?
Thanks for your help.......
Flying 2003 Van's RV-6A
Murphy Moose tail kit on order
BRUCE UVANNI
BUVANNI@US.IBM.COM
PHONE: (802) 769-7364 Tie line (446)
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Florida visit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Bruce,
I would suggest Merritt Island, plenty of sport aviation activity, hangars,
etc. Melbourne, although fine, is more geared toward commercial aviation.
Plus you will love the approach to Merritt Island from over the intercoastal
waterway. You might also consider Space Coast airport (TIX) in Titusville,
they have a warbird museum on the field and a pretty good restaurant, the
Outer Marker, I believe it's called.
do not archive
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Uvanni" <buvanni@us.ibm.com>
Subject: RV-List: Florida visit
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bruce Uvanni <buvanni@us.ibm.com>
>
>
> Listers: Weather permitting, I plan on flying down to
> Florida early December to visit my parents. They live
> in Satellite Beach. My question is, Which airport is better to fly into:
> Merritt Island or Melbourne. Does anyone down there have extra
> space in a hanger for a n RV-6A? If not which airport would be safer
> to have the plane tied down at?
>
> Thanks for your help.......
>
>
> Flying 2003 Van's RV-6A
> Murphy Moose tail kit on order
>
>
> BRUCE UVANNI
> BUVANNI@US.IBM.COM
> PHONE: (802) 769-7364 Tie line (446)
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Florida visit |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
I used to live on Satellite Beach and I'd suggest Melbourne. The north side
is filled with experimental and GA planes, the north runway is what you'll use
and it's never used by the commercials and it's not ever so busy that it's a
problem anyway with the heavies and tie downs are free if you buy some gas
should you end up on the FBO ramp. The one you want to call and use is Atlantic
Jet. VERY nice facility.
But you might be able to find an empty hangar slot as many locals may be
taking their planes out for multi-day trips themselves. Most share hangars there.
Two low wings like RVs with a Cessna in the middle is common in their larger
T's.
Call Rick Caldwell, a RV6 owner and one time RV list regular for further
help. He's got two planes in 2 different hangars there and may be able to
accomodate.
You can look him up at Dan Reeve's web site under the bed and breakfeast
site. He lives in Melbourne Beach which is just south of Sat. Beach. He can also
introduce you to some other great RV flyers/builders. There's quite a group
there at MLB.
good luck,
Lucky Macy
RV8 fuse (Mr platenut lately to my kids..)
In a message dated 11/28/2003 9:51:02 AM Eastern Standard Time,
pat_hatch@msn.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Bruce,
I would suggest Merritt Island, plenty of sport aviation activity, hangars,
etc. Melbourne, although fine, is more geared toward commercial aviation.
Plus you will love the approach to Merritt Island from over the intercoastal
waterway. You might also consider Space Coast airport (TIX) in Titusville,
they have a warbird museum on the field and a pretty good restaurant, the
Outer Marker, I believe it's called.
do not archive
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Uvanni" <buvanni@us.ibm.com>
Subject: RV-List: Florida visit
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bruce Uvanni <buvanni@us.ibm.com>
>
>
> Listers: Weather permitting, I plan on flying down to
> Florida early December to visit my parents. They live
> in Satellite Beach. My question is, Which airport is better to fly into:
> Merritt Island or Melbourne. Does anyone down there have extra
> space in a hanger for a n RV-6A? If not which airport would be safer
> to have the plane tied down at?
>
> Thanks for your help.......
>
>
> Flying 2003 Van's RV-6A
> Murphy Moose tail kit on order
>
>
> BRUCE UVANNI
> BUVANNI@US.IBM.COM
> PHONE: (802) 769-7364 Tie line (446)
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Hi Dana,
Check out these websites on anodizing at home. It's inexpensive and easy to
get good results.
Doc
http://t6aluminum.tripod.com/Anodizing.htm
http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Anodizing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> OK, I was wondering if there was another way to achieve what anodizing
does
> but it sounds like anodizing is the way to go on the outside slider rail.
> I'm painting th inner two rails.
>
> What type of local shops would routinely do anodizing?
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
> Gift-shop online from the comfort of home at MSN Shopping! No crowds,
free
> parking. http://shopping.msn.com
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Yes, I second that, I anodized several items myself from info from these
websites, I shamelesly adapted some for my own website
http://my.execpc.com/~gert/anodize.html
Stuff came out pretty well for an investment of less than 25 dollars in
acid and dye.
However, when the time comes, I probably will have my canopee rails
professionally hard annodized, if only because i am not set up for rails
that long.
but, by all means have a look at the home results on my web page.
Gert
Dr. Leathers wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
> Hi Dana,
> Check out these websites on anodizing at home. It's inexpensive and easy to
> get good results.
> Doc
> http://t6aluminum.tripod.com/Anodizing.htm
>
> http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Anodizing
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>>
>>OK, I was wondering if there was another way to achieve what anodizing
>>
> does
>
>>but it sounds like anodizing is the way to go on the outside slider rail.
>>I'm painting th inner two rails.
>>
>>What type of local shops would routinely do anodizing?
>>
>>
>>Dana Overall
>>Richmond, KY
>>RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>>Finish kit
>>Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>>do not archive
>>
>>Gift-shop online from the comfort of home at MSN Shopping! No crowds,
>>
> free
>
>>parking. http://shopping.msn.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Rocket-List: RE AWOL in the White House TO_ADDRESS_EQ_REAL |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
I believe that you must spell Do Not Archive correctly or it doesn't count.
Thanks to all the listers who responded off list. Last count was 16 to 1,
our favor.
KABONG
> --> Rocket-List message posted by: Rob Mokry <robmokry@pacbell.net>
>
> Hey John, If your "big warrior" wanted to really put himself in harm's
> way, perhaps he should attend a few funerals at Arlington Memorial
> Cemetary - just 4 miles away, don't need AF1 to get there!
>
> do not arcive
Message 7
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|
Subject: | Re: Flop tube - time to install |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Doug,
Way Cool on the airshow(s) and I'm also aware of your high credentials.
Secondary belts have not been required by I.A.C., at least not at any where
I've competed. Yes you should wear you're chute, but other people (not me
of course... if this is read by any FAA types) should not make low level -
high speed passes nor purposefully do aerobatics in - out & through clouds
{also referred to as "cloud dancing"}. So nobody is perfect.
I see your point and understand your choice for the secondary belt/no
chute; but hey don't leave me "hanging".... {pun intended}... What
happened with your friend at low level, hi-speed, upside down, in his
canopy???
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Rozendaal <dougr@petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flop tube - time to install
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
> Chuck,
>
> First of all, let me say, that I do sustained inverted and get up to -2
"G"s
> in my -4 and if someone wants to do that, I would not want to, and
apoligize
> for, discouraging anyone from that. It is not comfortable, and most pilots
> will never need inverted systems.
>
> I think the IAC competitions require double belts, maybe at the higher
> levels. Anyone know? You are correct that the second seatbelt would add
> some time to a quick exit. My thinking is twofold.
>
> First, low altitude acro (airshow flying, I am thinking about a simple
> airshow routine in the -4 nest summer) the chute is of little value, and
> catching your cuff on the seatbelt and falling in the canopy could be
> deadly. (I know a guy who had this happen on an inverted pass and he will
> tell you the second seatbelt is essential)
>
> Secondly, I have a wedge shaped tiny seatpack that fits behind the spar,
but
> I don't wear it. I probably should, but it I don't fit in the airplane
very
> well with it, and it is horribly uncomfortable. So as you can see, The
> second seatbelt would not have a safety downside for me.
>
> This, just like about everything in aviation is a compromise.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >
> > Doug,
> >
> > In my RV-4 I too have fuel injection, inverted oil, and a 5 point
> > harness, but after installing the secondary (double) seat belt set-up I
> > removed it for one MAJOR reason.... I found it complicates exiting the
> > aircraft with my chute, should I need to
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | empennage tip attachment |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Has anyone attached their empennage tips using a bonding adhesive
instead of the recommended cs4-4 rivets?
What about using the smaller mk319-bs or non-structural c/s pop rivets?
A quick look in the archives yielded only a reference to #6 screws.
Thanks,
Charlie
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" <rv6tc@myawai.com>
Actually Rob.....
It's Arlington NATIONAL Cemetery (with an e).
And I think phoning the parents/spouse of the service member might fill that
box. Which he's done many times.
Freedom in NEVER free.
Keith Hughes
Capt. Emeritus, USAF
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
> > --> Rocket-List message posted by: Rob Mokry <robmokry@pacbell.net>
> >
he should attend a few funerals at Arlington Memorial
> > Cemetary - just 4 miles away, don't need AF1 to get there!
> >
> > do not arcive
>
Message 10
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Subject: | graftable ram air inlet |
--> RV-List message posted by: rmickey@ix.netcom.com
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
----Short story: I'm looking for a ram air inlet that I can "graft" onto my RV-7
-----IO smooth bottom cowl.
I know this isn't what you asked but....
I fabricated a new air inlet for my 6A. I cut off the old one (discarded long
ago) shaped some hard foam to fit over the filterbox in the general shape of the
scoop I wanted and finished the shaping with modeling clay. I then put a few
coats of release agent on this, put the lower cowl in place and started laying
up fiberglass over the mold. after it was dry, then the process of getting
it just like I wanted with microballon/glass fiber filler and then the endless
messing to get fiberglass smooth.
It is an option.
Ross Mickey
N9PT Flying ;<))))
Message 11
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Subject: | What Listers Are Saying III |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Wow, Wednesday was a great day with lots of Listers getting online and
making their contributions!! Thanks to a number of you that jumped up to
carry the flag and rally support for the cause! Your efforts are much
appreciated and best of all - very effective!
Normally I post two "What Lister's Are Saying" messages during the Fund
Raiser, but this year, so many people have been expressing their pleasure
and satisfaction with the Lists that I have more than enough to post a
third WLAS!
Guys, I really appreciate your nice comments. It warms my heart to hear
how much the Lists mean to you and how much you enjoy them. Your feedback
and support make it all worth it!
Please read some of the awesome comments List members just like you have
made along with their List Contributions this year. There's just a couple
more days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. Won't you make a
Contribution to support the continued Operation and Upgrade of the email
forums sponsored here?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
========================== WLAS III ==============================
I appreciate the no advertising feature...
Richard M.
...incredible resource for homebuilders!
Alex M.
I couldn't imagine finishing the airplane without these people's help.
Larry M.
Your lists have helped me tremendously.
John D.
Excellent forum for the novice or expert to share information on their
favorite subject.
Jim B.
...excellent source of timely information...
Gregory S.
This is the future of communities.
James F.
I am grateful for all the time and effort that fellow builders
will give to help me.
Clay S.
...excellent Website and Service.
Timothy W.
Have found this forum very useful...
Peter A.
[The List] has made making decisions and getting help for my project
easy and lots of fun.
Brian U.
...very useful service...
Colin R.
[The List] has been one of my better tools during construction.
Gunter M.
So helpful in making the decision to build...
Peter M.
Don't change a thing.
Duane O.
I'd never be where I am without the List...
Greg P.
I log on every day, and either learn something, or can lend a hand.
James F.
I sure enjoy this website...
Bill V.
It's a great deal and very well run...
Terry D.
The AeroElectric List is absolutely the best source of information
on this topic.
Tom P.
Have used search function a couple of times, very handy.
Peter V.
The list is a tremendous resource.
Gunter M.
...many excellent years of service.
Terry W.
Providing a forum for aircraft builders is definitely a contribution to
safety I feel.
Donald K.
...outstanding service...
Paul M.
I can't imagine building my plane without the list.
Clay S.
I look forward to reading the List daily.
William C.
...great builder support...
Clay K.
[There is] a wealth of information on the List.
Ford F.
It's Black Friday -- time to go shopping. This was my first stop.
Curtis H.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 12
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Subject: | What Listers Are Saying III |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Message 13
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Anyone out there know the correct Greenlee crimper die needed for crimping standard
insulated (red, yellow, blue) connectors (ring, spade, butt, etc.)? I have
the "Kwik-Cycle 9" crimpers with coax dies, but I would like to just get a
new set of dies rather than another crimper.
In looking through the web I found two different die part numbers...45509 and 45570.
I can't seem to figure out which one I need.
http://www.twacomm.com/Catalog/Jmp_Greenlee/Dept_ID_393.htm
Thanks for the help,
Scott Haskins
7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
>
>Yes, I second that, I anodized several items myself from info from these
>websites, I shamelesly adapted some for my own website
>
>http://my.execpc.com/~gert/anodize.html
>
>Stuff came out pretty well for an investment of less than 25 dollars in
>acid and dye.
I gotta try this if not just for the fun of it. As I posted on the Ohio
Valley RVators site, if you're flying and see me pass you as 8K and still
climbing...............you'll know my science project has gone terribly
wrong:-)
do not archive this bad boy
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
>
>Yes, I second that, I anodized several items myself from info from these
>websites, I shamelesly adapted some for my own website
>
>http://my.execpc.com/~gert/anodize.html
>
>Stuff came out pretty well for an investment of less than 25 dollars in
>acid and dye.
Has one of the new viruses infected your computer? Find out with a FREE
online computer virus scan from McAfee. Take the FreeScan now!
Message 15
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|
<aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: | S-Tec 30 testing woes.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Folks,
I have been testing my panel components as I go along and have run into a particularly
ornery piece of equipment to troubleshoot. I don't want to 'blame the
box' immediately so I thought that I would ask around first.
Here's what I have:
S-Tec 30 dual axis autopilot coupled to,
NSD1000 HSI and
UPSAT GX60/SL30/ACU via
S-Tec GPSS (steering) switch.
Here's the itch:
With the autopilot gyro all spooled up, I first get the ready light and the four
inner lights lit as it goes through its self test...then the four inner lights
go out and the ready light only stays on. This is without the pitch computer's
cable attached (seems normal to me).
When I attach the pitch computer's cable attached, the unit never comes up as ready.
I've run all of the wiring to make sure that there are no opens or shorts....good
to go. I have power on the power pin at the pitch computer's connector
but I don't have the 10VDC at the alt hold disconnect switch wire (its wires
are good too).
Anyone else out there had this problem? I'm beginning to suspect the pitch computer
unit...!
Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Ralph Capen
RV6A Richardson, TX
Message 16
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|
Subject: | Re: Anodizing/heat treating |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Hey...on this subject, is there a lot of heat involved (can it change the
temper of the aluminum) Forgive me if someone already asked.
Thanks ...........Evan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gert" <gert@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Anodizing
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
>
> Yes, I second that, I anodized several items myself from info from these
> websites, I shamelesly adapted some for my own website
>
> http://my.execpc.com/~gert/anodize.html
>
> Stuff came out pretty well for an investment of less than 25 dollars in
> acid and dye.
>
> However, when the time comes, I probably will have my canopee rails
> professionally hard annodized, if only because i am not set up for rails
> that long.
>
> but, by all means have a look at the home results on my web page.
>
>
> Gert
>
> Dr. Leathers wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
> >
> > Hi Dana,
> > Check out these websites on anodizing at home. It's inexpensive and easy
to
> > get good results.
> > Doc
> > http://t6aluminum.tripod.com/Anodizing.htm
> >
> > http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Anodizing
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> >>
> >>OK, I was wondering if there was another way to achieve what anodizing
> >>
> > does
> >
> >>but it sounds like anodizing is the way to go on the outside slider
rail.
> >>I'm painting th inner two rails.
> >>
> >>What type of local shops would routinely do anodizing?
> >>
> >>
> >>Dana Overall
> >>Richmond, KY
> >>RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> >>Finish kit
> >>Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> >>http://rvflying.tripod.com
> >>do not archive
> >>
> >>Gift-shop online from the comfort of home at MSN Shopping! No crowds,
> >>
> > free
> >
> >>parking. http://shopping.msn.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Anodizing/heat treating |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
No, the colder the anodizing bath, the harder the anodized layer will
become and hence more wear resistant.
the hotter the anodizing bath is we're talking 70-90 F here, the worse
the anodizing layer will look.
What the anodizing layer does though is reduce the fatigue life of the
end product somewhat as the anodized layer will be hard and brittle
which in turn with repeat bending will open micro cracks.
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> Hey...on this subject, is there a lot of heat involved (can it change the
> temper of the aluminum) Forgive me if someone already asked.
> Thanks ...........Evan
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gert" <gert@execpc.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Anodizing
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
>>
>>Yes, I second that, I anodized several items myself from info from these
>>websites, I shamelesly adapted some for my own website
>>
>>http://my.execpc.com/~gert/anodize.html
>>
>>Stuff came out pretty well for an investment of less than 25 dollars in
>>acid and dye.
>>
>>However, when the time comes, I probably will have my canopee rails
>>professionally hard annodized, if only because i am not set up for rails
>>that long.
>>
>>but, by all means have a look at the home results on my web page.
>>
>>
>>Gert
>>
>>Dr. Leathers wrote:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>>>
>>>Hi Dana,
>>>Check out these websites on anodizing at home. It's inexpensive and easy
>>>
> to
>
>>>get good results.
>>>Doc
>>>http://t6aluminum.tripod.com/Anodizing.htm
>>>
>>>http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>Subject: RV-List: Anodizing
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>>>>
>>>>OK, I was wondering if there was another way to achieve what anodizing
>>>>
>>>>
>>>does
>>>
>>>
>>>>but it sounds like anodizing is the way to go on the outside slider
>>>>
> rail.
>
>>>>I'm painting th inner two rails.
>>>>
>>>>What type of local shops would routinely do anodizing?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Dana Overall
>>>>Richmond, KY
>>>>RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>>>>Finish kit
>>>>Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>>>>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>>>>do not archive
>>>>
>>>>Gift-shop online from the comfort of home at MSN Shopping! No crowds,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>free
>>>
>>>
>>>>parking. http://shopping.msn.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>--
>>is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: Don Mei <don_mei@hotmail.com>
do not archive
Message 19
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|
Subject: | Wanted: Fiberglass 101 Video |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Anybody got a new/used copy of the "FIBERGLASS 101" video by Sam James they no
longer need and would like to sell?
Please contact me offlist at: rvbuilder@att.net with information.
Thank you,
Jack
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 20
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|
Subject: | Pre-owned tools for sale? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Randy Richter <richterrbb@earthlink.net>
All, since I recently bought the -7QB kit, it strikes me that I'll need
to buy some tools to build the silly thing. Details!
So, are there any of you who have completed your aerospace vehicles
willing to part with some or all of the tools you used? I know there are
several retailers who offer (relatively) complete kits for various
models of RV, and I may actually get one if it turns out that ALL of you
want to keep ALL of your tools because ALL of you want to become repeat
offenders. Who knows? I may, too!
Please feel free to respond offline. Do not archive.
Thanks!
Randy
-7QB in hibernation
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: empennage tip attachment(long) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Just finished this process and learned a few things that might save others
some work. I'm new to RV building but have considerable composite
experience. First, I think the attachment process is lame. It works but
could be so much simpler. Here is what I did. Your mileage may vary but it
works for me. I would also add, don't wait to do your glass work, make it a
work in progress while other construction is going on.
1) I disagree with the dimpling of the stabilizer, elevators, rudder and
horiz stabilizer skin then counter sinking the fiberglass parts. I simply
used the deburring bit as a counter sink for the CS4-4's. They are very thin
so the skin has plenty of material for a secure attachment. Worked great!!
They are flush and there is no need to deface the fiberglass on the
attachment lip.
2) Prior to permanently attaching I used structural foam (used in composite
plane construction available at ACS) to cap the ends. The art foam will work
but is quite soft. Be sure to clean and rough the inside. A layer of FG
cloth was added to the exterior and a couple of strips to bond from the
inside. Only use enough epoxy to fill the weave.
3) The parts are now permanently attached.
Stop here if you don't want or care about completely filling in the glass to
the metal for that composite look.
4) Scuff the gel coat off the glass parts 1" out from the seam. Scuff up
the aluminum in the same manner. Clean with degreaser.
5) Mix a thick batch of micro balloons and epoxy. I use West Systems epoxy.
Using your wife's credit card (or your husband's, Roberta) as a squeegee to
fill in the seam and any low areas including the holes in the CS4's. If you
do this properly you'll have little sanding to do.
6) Sand smooth, always with a true sanding block and clean with degreaser.
Now add a 1" strip of fiberglass cloth to the seam with epoxy. Again only
use enough to fill the weave. Sand off the shine when cured.
7) Now do the same process as #5 until all low areas are filled and the
transition is perfect. I used Feather Fill at this point to get it perfect.
This sands like butter but is very hard and adheres!!!
8) When you think you have it sand down to 320 grit wet/dry paper (dry).
Clean with degreaser and prime with a fill type spray primer from a can.
Use a sanding block with the 320 paper, wet. Now you'll see all of the
boogers you couldn't see before.
the low areas will still have primer. Redo with filler if the low areas are
still deep. If not, I now transition to a spot filler that dries quickly and
sticks like mad. Continue until perfect.
For some this will seem like lots of work. The beauty of this process is
that you can have these parts set up on a couple of saw horses and work on
them when you tire of a current task. It is a nice diversion and you can
take several months if you want to while doing other stuff.
Some will say this adds weight. You're correct it does. But for the record I
kept track of the epoxy and filler used for the process for the entire tail
group, 4.2 oz. Now lots of the epoxy mixture wasn't used and much of that
applied was sanded off. I doubt 2 oz was the overall net weight gain.
Again, this was my method. With the extensive experience on the lists others
may have techniques beneficial to all. Feel free to contact me with any
questions.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie & Tupper England" <cengland@netdoor.com>
Subject: RV-List: empennage tip attachment
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England
<cengland@netdoor.com>
>
> Has anyone attached their empennage tips using a bonding adhesive
> instead of the recommended cs4-4 rivets?
> What about using the smaller mk319-bs or non-structural c/s pop rivets?
>
> A quick look in the archives yielded only a reference to #6 screws.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Rv-list spark Plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
I remember someone mentioning a source for spark plugs that was very
reasonable in price. I don't have the Internet here to check the
archives.
Could someone refer me to the source.........I need the short 18 mm
plugs.
Joel "Weasel" Graber
-4 finishing.....90% done 90 to go...
do not archive
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