Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:56 AM - WW 200RV test rusults in (Ronschreck99@aol.com)
2. 07:31 AM - Re: WW 200RV test results in (John Brick)
3. 10:14 AM - Where's the best place to purchase PPG (P M Condon)
4. 10:26 AM - Re: WW 200RV test results in (Rob Prior)
5. 10:31 AM - Re: Car gas in Ellisons (rv9@3rivers.net)
6. 10:48 AM - Re: RV6-A Constant Speed Upgrade (Dennis Persyk)
7. 11:05 AM - Redimple the skin? (Phil N)
8. 11:34 AM - Re: WW 200RV test results in (Bob Japundza)
9. 11:41 AM - Re: WW 200RV test results in (Neil McLeod)
10. 11:53 AM - Re: Redimple the skin? (Scott Bilinski)
11. 12:02 PM - Re: Redimple the skin? (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
12. 12:07 PM - Gas scooter fits in baggage compartment (Greg Milner)
13. 01:17 PM - Re: WW 200RV test results in (Rob Prior)
14. 01:24 PM - Re: Redimple the skin? (Rob Prior)
15. 01:53 PM - Re: Gas scooter fits in baggage compartment (michael michael)
16. 01:54 PM - Re: Gas scooter fits in baggage compartment (Brian Denk)
17. 02:13 PM - Re: WW 200RV test results in (Scott Bilinski)
18. 02:18 PM - Re: Redimple the skin? (Richard Bibb)
19. 03:16 PM - replacement part for the black "T" in Van's Static Air kit (lucky macy)
20. 03:25 PM - Re: WW 200RV test results in (Randy Lervold)
21. 03:46 PM - Re: WW 200RV test results in (Randy Lervold)
22. 03:54 PM - Re: Gas scooter fits in baggage compartment (SportAV8R@aol.com)
23. 03:55 PM - Re: Re: WW 200RV test results in (Randy Lervold)
24. 04:14 PM - Re: Redimple the skin? (Bobby Hester)
25. 05:02 PM - panel lay out with Dynon (Wayne Pedersen)
26. 05:44 PM - Re: panel lay out with Dynon (N223RV@aol.com)
27. 05:57 PM - Re: panel lay out with Dynon (Dan Checkoway)
28. 06:00 PM - Re: Redimple the skin? (Charlie & Tupper England)
29. 06:12 PM - Re: Redimple the skin? (Dean)
30. 06:17 PM - For Sale 160 HP Lycoming ()
31. 06:17 PM - Re: panel lay out with Dynon (Darwin N. Barrie)
32. 07:12 PM - Re: panel lay out with Dynon (Dana Overall)
33. 07:29 PM - Re: replacement part for the black "T" in Van's Static Air kit (Paul Besing)
34. 09:25 PM - Re: Redimple the skin? (HCRV6@aol.com)
35. 09:25 PM - Re: Redimple the skin? (Genev E Reed)
36. 09:59 PM - Re: Redimple the skin? (Jim Oke)
37. 10:35 PM - Re: Gas scooter fits in baggage compartment (Greg Milner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | WW 200RV test rusults in |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ronschreck99@aol.com
Randy,
Just wanted to thank you for testing all of those props. What a job! You
have done a great service to the RV community and I, for one am grateful to you.
Ron (do not archive)
Message 2
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| Subject: | WW 200RV test results in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Brick" <jbrick@wolfenet.com>
Thanks Randy, great work.
Would you refresh us on the particulars of your engine. Compression, carb or
FI, plenum, Lazar, etc.
jb
> This weekend I finally had a chance to test the new Whirl Wind 200RV. The
> results are posted on my prop page at...
> www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
>
> Suffice it to say that the 200RV bested all other props in every
> category --
> this is one sweet prop!
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, 364 hrs
> www.rv-8.com
> EAA Technical Counselor
> Home Wing VAF
Message 3
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| Subject: | Where's the best place to purchase PPG |
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
It might depend on where you live. In South NJ, there was/is no PPG
distributer that I could use.Neerest jobbber was 75 miles away and not
open on Saturdays. I ended up using Glasurit because the jobber near
where I worked supplied and mixed Glasurit and the jobber near my hanger
also supplied the Glasurit Line. My first choice was PPG Concept, but I
am very happy with the Glasurit 22 line S/S (same type as PPG Concept).
Having the supplier a few miles from the project was very helpful. Now
that I am knowledgable with the Glasurit paint system, my next airplane
will be in Glasurit. If I choose a Dupont line, I would say the same
thing for Dupont. My point is once I became good, and comfortable with a
specific product, there is no sence in relearning another paint
product/system.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: WW 200RV test results in |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Randy Lervold wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> Suffice it to say that the 200RV bested all other props in every category --
> this is one sweet prop!
Hi Randy,
In your Summary remarks, you say that:
"The WW 200C aerobatic prop ... For those of you looking forward to more
frequent acro this might be the best choice. It's hard to beat the 200RV
as the best overall prop however. I suppose that's what results from a
no-compromise design for the RV."
Is the 200RV not intended/recommended for Aerobatics? And if not, how
can it be considered a "no-compromise design for the RV?"
-Rob
Message 5
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| Subject: | Car gas in Ellisons |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv9@3rivers.net
Thanks for the reply, Terry. Yes, I have read the web site and other sources.
I have also heard that many people use car gas in Ellisons. I want to talk to
people who have done so over a significant period of time.
If anyone has experience with this, I would like to talk with you off list or
over the phone.
Thanks,
Gary
Quoting Terry Watson <terry@tcwatson.com>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> Ellison doesn't want you to use auto gas with their throttle body. This is
> right off their website:
>
>......snip
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV6-A Constant Speed Upgrade |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Pete,
The constant speed prop will not give you any faster cruise speed than a
correctly pitched fixed-pitch prop. What it will give you is faster climb
and a greater margin of safety. With the constant speed prop you have
greater obstacle clearance climb and the ability to make steep, controlled
descents without overspeeding the engine.
Dennis Persyk N600DP 6A C/S sold
Specs and pictures at http://home.att.net/~dpersyk/rv6a.htm
Message 7
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| Subject: | Redimple the skin? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
I've got both my HS skins dimpled and ready for riveting. Or so I
thought anyway. As I started riveting the left skin on the skeleton, I
found that several of the dimples I made using the Avery c-frame and a
4LB bronze hammer came up a little short of full depth (as compared to
the dimples along the edges made using the squeezer). Am I OK with
taking the Avery speed deburring tool and skimming the hole a little so
that the rivet sits down into it correctly? I saw lots of opinions
about the type of hammer to use with the c-frame. It seems that a
plastic dead blow is popular, but I don't understand how it would
provide a better dimple than the heavy bronze one I'm now using.
I haven't started riveting the right skin yet, I figured I'd redimple it
using some other hammer if the consensus from the experts is that I'm
better of re-dimpling than hitting the dimples with the deburring tool.
Phil
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: WW 200RV test results in |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Japundza <bjapundza@yahoo.com>
Randy, I'd be willing to bet the marginal speed/climb increases with the new prop
are due to the reduction in trim drag from the lighter prop and lighter battery...
I would really like to see what the new blended airfoil hartzell does in comparison
to these props (both Hartzell and WW).
Regards, Bob
RV-6 flying 500-something hours
F1 QB under const.
---------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | WW 200RV test results in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
It's not counterweighted and will go to fine pitch with a loss of oil
pressure therefore not "aerobatic". Unfortunately they are not planning
to do an aerobatic version, at least that's what they told me about a
month ago.
Neil McLeod
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Prior
Subject: Re: RV-List: WW 200RV test results in
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Randy Lervold wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> Suffice it to say that the 200RV bested all other props in every
category --
> this is one sweet prop!
Hi Randy,
In your Summary remarks, you say that:
"The WW 200C aerobatic prop ... For those of you looking forward to more
frequent acro this might be the best choice. It's hard to beat the 200RV
as the best overall prop however. I suppose that's what results from a
no-compromise design for the RV."
Is the 200RV not intended/recommended for Aerobatics? And if not, how
can it be considered a "no-compromise design for the RV?"
-Rob
=
==
==
==
==
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Redimple the skin? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I would use the bronze. I hit the dimpler twice. The first hit gives you
80% of the dimple the next finishes it off. You can tell buy the sound when
everything "bottoms out".
At 02:05 PM 12/8/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
>
>I've got both my HS skins dimpled and ready for riveting. Or so I
>thought anyway. As I started riveting the left skin on the skeleton, I
>found that several of the dimples I made using the Avery c-frame and a
>4LB bronze hammer came up a little short of full depth (as compared to
>the dimples along the edges made using the squeezer). Am I OK with
>taking the Avery speed deburring tool and skimming the hole a little so
>that the rivet sits down into it correctly? I saw lots of opinions
>about the type of hammer to use with the c-frame. It seems that a
>plastic dead blow is popular, but I don't understand how it would
>provide a better dimple than the heavy bronze one I'm now using.
>
>I haven't started riveting the right skin yet, I figured I'd redimple it
>using some other hammer if the consensus from the experts is that I'm
>better of re-dimpling than hitting the dimples with the deburring tool.
>
>Phil
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Redimple the skin? |
12/08/2003 01:25:29 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Yes deburr i.e. countersink the dimple using the deburr tool to get the
rivets to sit flush with the skin. You will find that you will do this
procedure for all your dimpled holes and it makes for a very clean and neat
finsih. Usually about three to four turns will get you flush with the outer
skin.
Glenn Williams
I find out about Iraq this week
Do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Gas scooter fits in baggage compartment |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Milner" <tldrgred@execpc.com>
I recently bought a gas scooter at Checker Auto Parts for $250. It fits in the
back of my -4 (with rear seat removed) and is real handy to transport from airports
to restaurants. Goes allmost 20mph and is fun! Well worth the investment.
It fell over while idling and broke a brake lever and they are going to send
a new on under warranty.
Red Milner
RV-4 79KM O-290 385hrs
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: WW 200RV test results in |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Neil McLeod wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
>
> It's not counterweighted and will go to fine pitch with a loss of oil
> pressure therefore not "aerobatic". Unfortunately they are not planning
> to do an aerobatic version, at least that's what they told me about a
> month ago.
Too bad. Although personally i'd be more concerned with whether or not
it can take the gyroscopic forces resulting from the aerobatic
manoeuvers than whether it goes to coarse or fine pitch when oil
pressure is lost.
-Rob
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Prior
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: WW 200RV test results in
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>
> Randy Lervold wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>>Suffice it to say that the 200RV bested all other props in every
> category -- this is one sweet prop!
>
> Hi Randy,
>
> In your Summary remarks, you say that:
>
> "The WW 200C aerobatic prop ... For those of you looking forward to more
> frequent acro this might be the best choice. It's hard to beat the 200RV
> as the best overall prop however. I suppose that's what results from a
> no-compromise design for the RV."
>
> Is the 200RV not intended/recommended for Aerobatics? And if not, how
> can it be considered a "no-compromise design for the RV?"
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Redimple the skin? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Phil N wrote:
> Am I OK with taking the Avery speed deburring tool and skimming the
> hole a little so that the rivet sits down into it correctly?
Not if you want to retain the strength that was designed into the
structure in the first place. There's a reason the skins were designed
to be dimpled instead of countersunk, it's because the skins are too
thin to countersink. If you "skim" a little material from the hole, you
skim a little strength from that joint.
You're better off finding a way to dimple those properly in-place. A
pop-rivet or through-hole dimple die is probably the best way, if the
skin can't be removed to return to your C-frame.
-Rob
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Gas scooter fits in baggage compartment |
--> RV-List message posted by: michael michael <top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca>
Do you have a web link to that...like to see a pic....;)
Thanks
Michael
Greg Milner <tldrgred@execpc.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Milner"
I recently bought a gas scooter at Checker Auto Parts for $250. It fits in the
back of my -4 (with rear seat removed) and is real handy to transport from airports
to restaurants. Goes allmost 20mph and is fun! Well worth the investment.
It fell over while idling and broke a brake lever and they are going to send
a new on under warranty.
Red Milner
RV-4 79KM O-290 385hrs
---------------------------------
Message 16
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| Subject: | Gas scooter fits in baggage compartment |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Milner" <tldrgred@execpc.com>
>
>I recently bought a gas scooter at Checker Auto Parts for $250. It fits in
>the back of my -4 (with rear seat removed) and is real handy to transport
>from airports to restaurants. Goes allmost 20mph and is fun! Well worth the
>investment. It fell over while idling and broke a brake lever and they are
>going to send a new on under warranty.
>
>Red Milner
>RV-4 79KM O-290 385hrs
Well now that clinches it. Gotta get one! Or, two for the RV10 someday. Of
course, by the time I finish the -10, those things may have ion propulsion
and warp drive too. I saw a kid ripping down the street on one the other
day and thought it would make one dandy $100 hamburger fetcher.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: WW 200RV test results in |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I talked with Jim at WW a while back and I belive, in his mind, any prop,
that does not go to corse pitch when pressure is lost, is not recommended
for aerobatics. You might want to verify this.
At 01:16 PM 12/8/03 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>
>Neil McLeod wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
>>
>> It's not counterweighted and will go to fine pitch with a loss of oil
>> pressure therefore not "aerobatic". Unfortunately they are not planning
>> to do an aerobatic version, at least that's what they told me about a
>> month ago.
>
>Too bad. Although personally i'd be more concerned with whether or not
>it can take the gyroscopic forces resulting from the aerobatic
>manoeuvers than whether it goes to coarse or fine pitch when oil
>pressure is lost.
>
>-Rob
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Prior
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: WW 200RV test results in
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>>
>> Randy Lervold wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>>>Suffice it to say that the 200RV bested all other props in every
>> category -- this is one sweet prop!
>>
>> Hi Randy,
>>
>> In your Summary remarks, you say that:
>>
>> "The WW 200C aerobatic prop ... For those of you looking forward to more
>> frequent acro this might be the best choice. It's hard to beat the 200RV
>> as the best overall prop however. I suppose that's what results from a
>> no-compromise design for the RV."
>>
>> Is the 200RV not intended/recommended for Aerobatics? And if not, how
>> can it be considered a "no-compromise design for the RV?"
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Redimple the skin? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Bibb" <rebibb@comcast.net>
The HS skins are 0.032 and can be countersunk or dimpled for 3/32 rivets so
I don;t see the problem....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7@b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Redimple the skin?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>
> Phil N wrote:
> > Am I OK with taking the Avery speed deburring tool and skimming the
> > hole a little so that the rivet sits down into it correctly?
>
> Not if you want to retain the strength that was designed into the
> structure in the first place. There's a reason the skins were designed
> to be dimpled instead of countersunk, it's because the skins are too
> thin to countersink. If you "skim" a little material from the hole, you
> skim a little strength from that joint.
>
> You're better off finding a way to dimple those properly in-place. A
> pop-rivet or through-hole dimple die is probably the best way, if the
> skin can't be removed to return to your C-frame.
>
> -Rob
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | replacement part for the black "T" in Van's Static Air kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
I read most of the 21 posts that came up when I searched for a recommended
replacement part for the T fitting in Van's static air kit and came up with
nothing.
Many gripes about the kit inn general but no specific suggestions. I don't
like to use the T type of fitting with hard, plastic tubes when the fit is
very tight- they can cause the tubes to can crack easily. Anyone got a
replacement part from ACS or similar place for a T fitting that is flared
and threaded for that diameter of tubing?
thanks,
lucky
RV8 fuse
Browse styles for all ages, from the latest looks to cozy weekend wear at
MSN Shopping. And check out the beauty products! http://shopping.msn.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: WW 200RV test results in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
O-360 A1A (non-counterweighted crank), Millenium cylinders, 8.5-1
compression, LASAR ignition. More info on my engine page if anyone has any
interest...
www.rv-8.com/Engine.htm
Randy
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Brick" <jbrick@wolfenet.com>
>
> Thanks Randy, great work.
>
> Would you refresh us on the particulars of your engine. Compression, carb
or
> FI, plenum, Lazar, etc.
>
> jb
>
> > This weekend I finally had a chance to test the new Whirl Wind 200RV.
The
> > results are posted on my prop page at...
> > www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
> >
> > Suffice it to say that the 200RV bested all other props in every
> > category --
> > this is one sweet prop!
> >
> > Randy Lervold
> > RV-8, 364 hrs
> > www.rv-8.com
> > EAA Technical Counselor
> > Home Wing VAF
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: WW 200RV test results in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> In your Summary remarks, you say that:
>
> "The WW 200C aerobatic prop ... For those of you looking forward to more
> frequent acro this might be the best choice. It's hard to beat the 200RV
> as the best overall prop however. I suppose that's what results from a
> no-compromise design for the RV."
>
> Is the 200RV not intended/recommended for Aerobatics? And if not, how
> can it be considered a "no-compromise design for the RV?"
>
> -Rob
First off, I'm no aerobatics expert, but my understanding is that a true
hard core acro prop needs to accelerate from slow speeds at the end of a
maneuver where you've spent all your energy to medium speeds for the next
maneuver as fast as possible. This is not the typical RV mission where most
guys just do occasional acro and would trade other qualities for that
specific acceleration. No question the 200RV will do aerobatics just fine,
but I don't think it will accelerate as hard from say 90 mph back up to 150
which is what the 200C is specifically designed to do.
If this is an area of interest I'd give Whirl Wind a call and they can
provide a better explanation than I just tried to do. They are great people
and will help you select the right prop for your application. Jim Rust, the
owner and head designer, has a Laser that he built. I flew formation with
him once and watched as he did an aerobatic routine... fabulous, but not
what I want to do in my RV. Short story: I remember that flight well because
we landed as a flight back at Gillespie. His plane has no flaps and I flew
his wing right down to landing at 90 mph and wheeled it on with him. It
actually wasn't that bad but way different than I'd landed ever before.
Randy
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Gas scooter fits in baggage compartment |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
and the weight would be...?
-BB
do not archive
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: WW 200RV test results in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> Randy, I'd be willing to bet the marginal speed/climb increases with the
new prop are due to the reduction in trim drag from the lighter prop and
lighter battery...
My plane goes the same speed whether solo or dual, therefore I doubt the
trim differences are responsible for the different figures.
> I would really like to see what the new blended airfoil hartzell does in
comparison to these props (both Hartzell and WW).
Me too!
> Regards, Bob
>
> RV-6 flying 500-something hours
> F1 QB under const.
Hey, how's the F1 coming along? Now THAT will be a thrill!
Randy
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Redimple the skin? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Phil N wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
>
>I've got both my HS skins dimpled and ready for riveting. Or so I
>thought anyway. As I started riveting the left skin on the skeleton, I
>found that several of the dimples I made using the Avery c-frame and a
>4LB bronze hammer came up a little short of full depth (as compared to
>the dimples along the edges made using the squeezer). Am I OK with
>taking the Avery speed deburring tool and skimming the hole a little so
>that the rivet sits down into it correctly? I saw lots of opinions
>about the type of hammer to use with the c-frame. It seems that a
>plastic dead blow is popular, but I don't understand how it would
>provide a better dimple than the heavy bronze one I'm now using.
>
>I haven't started riveting the right skin yet, I figured I'd redimple it
>using some other hammer if the consensus from the experts is that I'm
>better of re-dimpling than hitting the dimples with the deburring tool.
>
>Phil
>
>
Phil, I had the same problem and found that it was how I had my c-frame
mounted. I made a pocket in my work bench to sit my c-frame in so that
it would be level with the bench top when using. I made a 2x4 leg that
is mounted directly under the striking surface of the c-frame, so I
thought it had a good solid striking area, wrong! I cut a 1/4" piece of
plate steel to size to fit in the bench pocket and then sit the c-frame
on it. As soon as I hit it the first time after adding this I knew that
was the correct fix. Your c-frame has got to have a solid surface to sit
on. I think you will find that if you do this your dimpling problem will
be fixed. Yes, you can go back over your current dimple and redimple. I
used a plastic dead blow hammer. I built both my horizonal and vertical
stabalizers before I realized it did not look right. My wings looked
great after the fix.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 25
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| Subject: | panel lay out with Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
Just starting to work on the panel layout for my -7a tip up and need some
input. Will be installing 3 flight instruments ALt, VSI and HSI plus the
DYNON and IK2000. Question is
Those using the Dynon - would you mount it as a primary instrument i.e. dead
center or would you mount it below the 3 back up flight instruments ? Is it
easy to wean your self from the "old" dial/needle flight instruments to the
Dynon High tech ribbon and digital ?
thanks
Wayne
RV 7a - workin on panel
S.Alberta
---
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: panel lay out with Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I'd mount it top center, right where the Attitude indicator should be. It
will be your primary instrument.
One question, why would you not have an airspeed indicator also as a back up?
If you are short on panel space one thing to think about is to ditch the VSI
(the Dynon has one) and add an airspeed indicator. Then if the Dynon craps
out, you will still have altitude and airpseed. The 2 most important things to
land an airplane....
Just my $0.02 worth.
-Mike Kraus
RV-4, flying with the Dynon for 100 hours!
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: panel lay out with Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Top dead center, oh wait that means something else. But yeah, no doubt --
center of my field of view:
http://rvproject.com/images/panel/panel_640x210.jpg
You mentioned using some conventional backups but no conventional airspeed
indicator? Curious.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
Subject: RV-List: panel lay out with Dynon
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen"
<wayne@pedersentransport.com>
>
> Just starting to work on the panel layout for my -7a tip up and need some
> input. Will be installing 3 flight instruments ALt, VSI and HSI plus the
> DYNON and IK2000. Question is
>
> Those using the Dynon - would you mount it as a primary instrument i.e.
dead
> center or would you mount it below the 3 back up flight instruments ? Is
it
> easy to wean your self from the "old" dial/needle flight instruments to
the
> Dynon High tech ribbon and digital ?
>
> thanks
>
> Wayne
> RV 7a - workin on panel
> S.Alberta
> ---
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Redimple the skin? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Phil N wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
>
>I've got both my HS skins dimpled and ready for riveting. Or so I
>thought anyway. As I started riveting the left skin on the skeleton, I
>found that several of the dimples I made using the Avery c-frame and a
>4LB bronze hammer came up a little short of full depth (as compared to
>the dimples along the edges made using the squeezer). Am I OK with
>taking the Avery speed deburring tool and skimming the hole a little so
>that the rivet sits down into it correctly? I saw lots of opinions
>about the type of hammer to use with the c-frame. It seems that a
>plastic dead blow is popular, but I don't understand how it would
>provide a better dimple than the heavy bronze one I'm now using.
>
>I haven't started riveting the right skin yet, I figured I'd redimple it
>using some other hammer if the consensus from the experts is that I'm
>better of re-dimpling than hitting the dimples with the deburring tool.
>
>Phil
>
I've had good luck using a couple of techniques to 'finish' a dimple in
place, even a missed dimple in a rib.
Mounting the female die in a bucking bar & the male in a rivet set, you
can usually finish the dimple with the rivet gun using relatively high
pressure & quick, hard firing of the gun. If that fails, you might try
making your own female die in the bucking bar with a countersink but
over-sink the bar slightly to compensate for the double thickness.
Obviously, you want total control over the gun & bucking bar if you try
this.
Charlie
As to which hammer to use, I think we should start a 2 month thread on
that. My personal preference is to live dangerously by using a regular
claw hammer, without the benefit of eye protection. ;-)
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Redimple the skin? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Phil
I have a sturdy work bench and a light plywood slotted shelf almost the size
of the bench that brings the skins level with the male dimple die in the
bottom of the Avery c-frame. I also always push the female die/shaft down
firmly against the skin and hold it with my other hand before striking the
shaft with the Avery plastic mallet. This precludes any bouncing and always
gives a good full dimple. The 20 inch c-frame throats will not reach approx
20 rivet holes in the center of the RV-7/RV-9 fuselage center skins (the
newer Avery 22 inch c-frame will). The Avery pop-rivet dimple dies worked
well in that location, also for a j-stringer I added in the bottom fwd
tailcone skin to stop an oil-canning panel. Even though .032 skin can be
countersunk, my preference would always be to redimple where possible,
rather than cutting away metal.
Dean Van Winkle
Retired Aero Engineer
RV-9A Fus/Finish
13B NA Rotary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
Subject: RV-List: Redimple the skin?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
>
> I've got both my HS skins dimpled and ready for riveting. Or so I
> thought anyway. As I started riveting the left skin on the skeleton, I
> found that several of the dimples I made using the Avery c-frame and a
> 4LB bronze hammer came up a little short of full depth (as compared to
> the dimples along the edges made using the squeezer). Am I OK with
> taking the Avery speed deburring tool and skimming the hole a little so
> that the rivet sits down into it correctly? I saw lots of opinions
> about the type of hammer to use with the c-frame. It seems that a
> plastic dead blow is popular, but I don't understand how it would
> provide a better dimple than the heavy bronze one I'm now using.
>
> I haven't started riveting the right skin yet, I figured I'd redimple it
> using some other hammer if the consensus from the experts is that I'm
> better of re-dimpling than hitting the dimples with the deburring tool.
>
> Phil
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | For Sale 160 HP Lycoming |
--> RV-List message posted by: <impalaflyer@sev.org>
I have a 160 HP Lycoming O-320-H2AD core for sale, 1586 SMOH, 3736 TT, flywheel,
carb and mags included with complete logs and no known damage history.
I've pulled a couple lifters (you don't need to split the case on the '76' series
engine to inspect the lifters) and they are spalled, so plan on rebuilding
it before flight.
See this message from Eric Newton when he rebuilt his H2AD... http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX119749968?KEYSeric_&_newton_&_h2ad?LISTNAMERV?HITNUMBER3?SERIAL1749004870?SHOWBUTTONSYES
Grand Total for Overhaul $5,060.00
Cost of Engine Core $2,300.00
Total cost of SMOH engine $7,360.00
You can also do a Matronics search for "eric & newton & h2ad" to find this (Engine
Overhaul Cost) March 02 message.
Overhaul it yourself and have a zero-time engine for low $$$.
I'm selling this engine because I got a great deal on another low-time firewall-forward
engine package (also an H2AD) and I'm not going to build the first Twin
RV.
Price is ONLY $3,000.00 + freight from Toledo, OH.
Tony Kirk
RV6A Finish
419-376-4536
See pictures at... http://members.accesstoledo.com/jkirk/h2ad/index.htm
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: panel lay out with Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
I'm going with the Dynon where the AH would be then 2.25" altimeter, T & B,
and airspeed below the Dynon as the back up stuff.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: <N223RV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: panel lay out with Dynon
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> I'd mount it top center, right where the Attitude indicator should be. It
> will be your primary instrument.
>
> One question, why would you not have an airspeed indicator also as a back
up?
> If you are short on panel space one thing to think about is to ditch the
VSI
> (the Dynon has one) and add an airspeed indicator. Then if the Dynon
craps
> out, you will still have altitude and airpseed. The 2 most important
things to
> land an airplane....
>
> Just my $0.02 worth.
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4, flying with the Dynon for 100 hours!
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: panel lay out with Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Well, here's my flush mount.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/panel.jpg
Since I consider the Garmin 430 to be a great asset for situational
awareness, I have it mounted in the "package". I have left enough space
there to install the Grand Rapids graphic moniter if/when it comes out and
some people fly with it. Anyway, with all things considered, I did decide
to go with alt., as, and vsi for indentification of IFR tendencies.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Get holiday tips for festive fun.
http://special.msn.com/network/happyholidays.armx
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: replacement part for the black "T" in Van's Static Air kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Check out Ace Hardware, True Value, etc. They have nylon hose parts like
that, which will work with that installation. I ended up scrapping just
about everything in that kit, except for the tubing and a couple of fittings
for the rear of the gauges.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (RV-10 Soon)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: replacement part for the black "T" in Van's Static Air kit
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> I read most of the 21 posts that came up when I searched for a recommended
> replacement part for the T fitting in Van's static air kit and came up
with
> nothing.
>
> Many gripes about the kit inn general but no specific suggestions. I
don't
> like to use the T type of fitting with hard, plastic tubes when the fit is
> very tight- they can cause the tubes to can crack easily. Anyone got a
> replacement part from ACS or similar place for a T fitting that is flared
> and threaded for that diameter of tubing?
>
> thanks,
> lucky
> RV8 fuse
>
> Browse styles for all ages, from the latest looks to cozy weekend wear at
> MSN Shopping. And check out the beauty products! http://shopping.msn.com
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Redimple the skin? |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 12/8/03 11:16:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
pnewlon@toosan.com writes:
<< 4LB bronze hammer came up a little short of full depth (as compared to
the dimples along the edges made using the squeezer). >>
I dimpled my entire project with the Avery "C" Frame tool and a 1/2 pound
plastic mallet ( one whack per rivet hole, except on 0.40 which required two
whacks per hole) and the dimples worked great.. Maybe there is a law of
dimenishing return when you go up to a 4 lb sledge hammer.
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Redimple the skin? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Genev E Reed <genevreed@juno.com>
Phil: you say some of the dimples are short. It sounds like you are not
hitting with the same force.
Doyle Reed 7A 146 hrs on the hobbs
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Redimple the skin? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
The surface that the C-frame is placed on is also important. To obtain the
desired result in some cases, the C-frame must be placed on a solid,
non-resilient surface - eg., a concrete garage floor or similar. If the
C-frame is just sitting on a flimsy table, pounding away with a heavy hammer
will just flex the table top vice forming the dimple or setting the rivet.
Of course, this depends on the amount of effort require do form the dimple
or set the rivet. I did the 470-6-XX rivets on my wing spars with a C-frame
riveter which took a bit of muscle. The elevator and rudder skins took a
lot less.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Redimple the skin?
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 12/8/03 11:16:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> pnewlon@toosan.com writes:
>
> << 4LB bronze hammer came up a little short of full depth (as compared to
> the dimples along the edges made using the squeezer). >>
>
> I dimpled my entire project with the Avery "C" Frame tool and a 1/2 pound
> plastic mallet ( one whack per rivet hole, except on 0.40 which required
two
> whacks per hole) and the dimples worked great.. Maybe there is a law of
> dimenishing return when you go up to a 4 lb sledge hammer.
>
> Do not archive
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, firewall forward
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Gas scooter fits in baggage compartment |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Milner" <tldrgred@execpc.com>
WWW.applighting.com The spec sheet is on this website. Just checked WWW.Checkerautoparts.com
and didn`t see it (I purchased it at one of their stores)
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