Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:03 AM - Re: RV-List Prop Bolts (linn walters)
2. 05:09 AM - Re: Baffle Measurements.... (linn walters)
3. 05:28 AM - Detroit area builders (lucky macy)
4. 05:45 AM - Re: RV-7A kit for sale (jerry)
5. 06:32 AM - Re: Note from Dynon on OAT (Larry Pardue)
6. 06:33 AM - Re: Antenna/radio reception (Kevin Horton)
7. 07:12 AM - Re: Wingtips (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
8. 07:54 AM - Re: RV-List Prop Bolts (Gil Alexander)
9. 07:57 AM - Re: Wingtips (Dan Checkoway)
10. 08:32 AM - Re: Cork or not to Cork? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
11. 08:54 AM - Re:Cork or not to Cork? (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
12. 09:12 AM - Re: Wingtips (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
13. 10:29 AM - was OAT, now true airspeed. (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
14. 03:00 PM - Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. (DAVID DAVENPORT)
15. 03:12 PM - Fw: Re: RV-List Prop Bolts (smoothweasel@juno.com)
16. 03:42 PM - Re: RV-List Prop Bolts (Chopper)
17. 04:13 PM - Re: Re:Cork or not to Cork? (Evan and Megan Johnson)
18. 04:23 PM - Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. (Dan Checkoway)
19. 04:46 PM - Re: Re:Cork or not to Cork? (Jim Jewell)
20. 05:37 PM - Propeller Performance (Gary Zilik)
21. 07:20 PM - Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. (Alex Peterson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Prop Bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
smoothweasel@juno.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
>
> Hey Girls(or Guys),
>I was in the process of installing my prop tonight and it seems that the
>set of studs that i have here with the motor are about 1/8" to long. They
>protrude through the prop flange and hit the hub housing before the
>flange tightens on the flywheel assembly.
>
Something is definitely amiss. The prop flange bushings do come in
different lengths depending on their use (FP Vs. CS), but unless the
engine has been converted, it shouldn't matter. One bushing is a little
larger dia than the others, and that's what indexes the flywheel to the
crank. You may not have the flywheel indexed correctly. Take out #1
plug and rotate crank to the compression stroke and place the piston at
TDC (Top Dead Center). Now fit the flywheel up on the crank with the 0
at the top. The 0 on the backside of the flywheel should align itself
with the case parting line. and should fit flush with the flange. Metal
props are counterbored to take the extended length of the bushings, if
there are any. I'm not sure of wood props are counterbored or not. The
other way to get around changing the bushings (they ain't cheap) would
be to get a prop spacer and add it to the stack. Problem is, that'll
push the prop forward and you'll have a larger gap between spinner and
cowl. Nothing's simple, is it???? Good luck.
Linn
> So guess I need shorter studs
>to solve the problem. I checked Aircraft Spruce and didn't see any studs
>listed. Is there some sort of spec. for this stud (i.e. 125000 or 160000
>psi ) that I can use to locate something locally or do I need to contact
>Hartsel? Oh by the way it's a 0-320 with a Hartsel C/S.
>
>
>
>
>Weasel Graber
>-4 wanting to start engine!!!
>Brooksville MS
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Baffle Measurements.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
My comments aren't RV specific ..... just baffling specific!
RV6AOKC@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
>
>Howdy again.....time for the 11pm, Friday night, I can't do anymore work in
>the garage question....Im finishing up the baffling and about to install the
>air seal along the top....as good as the instructions are (not!!!)...I cant find
>a measurement of how far I need to overlap the alum.
>
If you're going to stick with baffle-seal-material, I've found it better
to use the silicone (red) stuff as it's easier on aluminum and
fiberglas. I put the material on the outside of the aluminum baffle,
and cover that with a strip of alum that's about 1/4" higher than the
engine baffle. I roll the edge a little forcing the baffle seal to bend
inwards. Makes it easier to get the seal laying correctly when the cowl
is put on.
> and how much material
>has to hang over the edge (that forms the seal).
>
That depends on how much distance is between the aluminum and the cowl.
The seal should be lown enough so that it lays kinda flat on the cowl.
Too much distance between the alum baffle and the cowl will allow the
seal material to blow out and ruin your sealing capability. A good seal
is paramount to keeping cylinder temps in check. Nasty things happen
when you don't.
> Also what you may have used for rivet spacing....
>
With the sandwich described above, 2" or 3" spacing should be good.
>Vans has a nice set of drawings...but no
>measurements....let me know what ya'll think...thanks....
>
Actually, I wouldn't even deal with cowl seal material. I'd make a
plenum by making a fiberglas (carbon fiber would be better) cover to fit
over the engine, and fairing that into the cowl air inlets. This will
give you the absolute best seal, and won't give you a problem down the
road, as all baffle seal stuff seems to.
Linn
>
>Kurt in OKC...
>Only a Few things left....but taking forever....
>
>Do Not Archive...
>
>PS...Happy Holidays......
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Detroit area builders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Hello,
I'm being punished by my wife this year. She's taking us to southern Canada
(Michigan) for Christmas which is really upsetting. I traditionally get
more work done on my 8 during the holidays than anyther other time so here's
an opportunity lost...
Anyway, the silver lining in this could be if I could find any builders in
the panel or FWF stage of the project and check it out. I'd especially like
to see a Dynon or any engine monitoring system up close and personal.
We leave this Tuesday.
Thanks,
Lucky
do not archive
Make your home warm and cozy this winter with tips from MSN House & Home.
http://special.msn.com/home/warmhome.armx
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7A kit for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "jerry" <jerry@mc.net>
Hi Terri ...
I'm interested and can pick it up with my Dakota pickup and a trailer, real
soon. I'd have a certified check for you when I arrive. Send your phone
number and I'll call you. Or you can call me 847-669-0939 ... your option.
I'm in Northern Illinois, retired, and need something to build and fly.
Looking forward to your reply.
Jerry Grimmonpre jerry@mc.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <windsaloft@rmisp.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-7A kit for sale
> --> RV-List message posted by: windsaloft@rmisp.com
>
> This is one of those "Holy Toledo" posts ----
>
> I will be leaving Lander, Wyoming for just south of Jacksonville, FL on
> January 7 to start a new job on Jan.12
>
> I either have to sell my RV-7A project lickity split, or figure out how to
> transport it and store it for about 6 months..........
>
> I have an empennage kit, completed except for fiberglass. It has the
> older rudder, but I have the new rudder kit from vans still in the box.
>
> I have a wing kit, 1st wing started, in the midst of sealing tanks -- 2d
> wing untouched. Flaps and ailerons about 85% done.
>
> I have a QB fuselage kit that I have opened and inventoried but not done
> anything to.
>
> When I add up the invoices, it exceeds $19,000 in parts. If you came to
> Lander, WY and used a U Haul or truck to drive away with it, I'd help you
> load it and let it all go for $15,000. I can guarantee (in writing) that
> all the parts are there. Need to hear from you before Jan. 3
>
> No tools to be sold -- I hope to start anew someday...........and I also
> have a flying RV-6A that I have to maintain!
>
> Terri Watson
> N1977D flying
> N8862T reserved
> windsaloft@rmisp.com
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Note from Dynon on OAT |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
>
> I tried to find how/why to use TAS in several flying books to no
> avail. Please say what value you see in knowing the TAS.
>
I find the TAS display on my Rocky Mountain MicroEncoder very useful for
picking cruising altitudes. By making a quick comparison of TAS and GS
during the climb I can instantly see the head or tailwind component.
In cruise it is interesting, but not essential information, to see the
effects of lift and sink on speed. Sometimes you can see you are in gentle
down wave that is killing your speed. Remedied by altering course one way
or the other.
It is also a quick and dirty way of seeing if I am running about the cruise
power I want to. I know I normally cruise around 165 knots. If it is
something different I figure out why.
Approaching the airport I can see whether to expect wind shear. If I am
showing a 30 knot headwind at a thousand feet but the surface wind is 5
knots, watch out. This happened a week ago to me.
There are enough nice things about TAS display that I would hate to give it
up.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna/radio reception |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>Last weekend I heard a radio call from an airport 100 miles away. Is it
>normal to have this kind of reception. I never had this happen with rental
>planes.
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>do not archive
>
There a many variables at play here - the usual ones you would
suspect (quality of antenna installation, transmitter power,
altitude, etc) and one that you might not suspect - atmospheric
conditions. If you get the right atmospheric conditions the radio
waves can travel a long ways in a "duct". See:
http://users.whsmithnet.co.uk/colin.martin/radio/ducting.html
I ran into this one day when I was flying S-2 Trackers. We took off
from St. John's, Newfoundland, and headed east over the Atlantic, VFR
at 1500 ft. We didn't need to talk to anyone else, so we just left
the radio on the tower frequency. Eventually we stopped hearing
tower as it went below the radio horizon. We found some fishing
boats over 200 miles off shore, so we descended down to 100 ft to
check them out. Suddenly we started picking up St John's tower - at
100 ft above the water, more than 200 miles away.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 12/19/03 7:34:06 PM Central Standard Time,
Leesafur@aol.com writes:
> Hay that's a good idea but how do you fasten the hinge pin?
>
The will clip to the inside of the rib that installs in the rear of the tip.
There is about a one inch offset from the pin line and the surface of the
rib. Haven't done it yet, but the plan is to install a platenut in the outboard
side of the rib, about 3" from the rear, then make a little nylon block with a
couple of holes drilled through it fore/aft for the pins, and one through the
block for a #8 screw into the platenut.
Best wishes and happy holidaze from The PossumWorks
Mark - plumbing the depths of the cockpit...........
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Prop Bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Weasel(?),
All you ever wanted to know about prop bushing on Lycoming
engines is here....
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/maintenancePublications/serviceInstructions/SI1098G.pdf
good luck .... gil in Tucson
At 07:51 AM 12/20/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
>smoothweasel@juno.com wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
> >
> > Hey Girls(or Guys),
> >I was in the process of installing my prop tonight and it seems that the
> >set of studs that i have here with the motor are about 1/8" to long. They
> >protrude through the prop flange and hit the hub housing before the
> >flange tightens on the flywheel assembly.
> >
>Something is definitely amiss. The prop flange bushings do come in
>different lengths depending on their use (FP Vs. CS), but unless the
>engine has been converted, it shouldn't matter. One bushing is a little
>larger dia than the others, and that's what indexes the flywheel to the
>crank. You may not have the flywheel indexed correctly. Take out #1
>plug and rotate crank to the compression stroke and place the piston at
>TDC (Top Dead Center). Now fit the flywheel up on the crank with the 0
>at the top. The 0 on the backside of the flywheel should align itself
>with the case parting line. and should fit flush with the flange. Metal
>props are counterbored to take the extended length of the bushings, if
>there are any. I'm not sure of wood props are counterbored or not. The
>other way to get around changing the bushings (they ain't cheap) would
>be to get a prop spacer and add it to the stack. Problem is, that'll
>push the prop forward and you'll have a larger gap between spinner and
>cowl. Nothing's simple, is it???? Good luck.
>Linn
>
> > So guess I need shorter studs
> >to solve the problem. I checked Aircraft Spruce and didn't see any studs
> >listed. Is there some sort of spec. for this stud (i.e. 125000 or 160000
> >psi ) that I can use to locate something locally or do I need to contact
> >Hartsel? Oh by the way it's a 0-320 with a Hartsel C/S.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Weasel Graber
> >-4 wanting to start engine!!!
> >Brooksville MS
> >
> >
> >
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm actually curious more about how the hinges rivet to the wing. On the
RV-7 the wingtip tucks inside the wing skin, so there wouldn't be much room
for hinges.
On yours did you chop off the wingtip flange so it butts up against the wing
skin edge, and then you've got half the hinge on the wing skin, half the
hinge on the wingtip? Something like that?
Just curious how you've made it work...photos would be great, too.
Thanks,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wingtips
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 12/19/03 7:34:06 PM Central Standard Time,
> Leesafur@aol.com writes:
>
> > Hay that's a good idea but how do you fasten the hinge pin?
> >
>
> The will clip to the inside of the rib that installs in the rear of the
tip.
> There is about a one inch offset from the pin line and the surface of the
> rib. Haven't done it yet, but the plan is to install a platenut in the
outboard
> side of the rib, about 3" from the rear, then make a little nylon block
with a
> couple of holes drilled through it fore/aft for the pins, and one through
the
> block for a #8 screw into the platenut.
>
> Best wishes and happy holidaze from The PossumWorks
> Mark - plumbing the depths of the cockpit...........
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cork or not to Cork? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 12/19/03 11:32:39 PM Central Standard Time, ktlkrn@cox.net
writes:
> On a final note, I don't care if I ever see Proseal again in this life
> time!!!!!!! Anyone know how long this stuff will be on my hands?
Oh boy- gazing into my crystal ball I see...................... LOTS of
proseal in Darwin's future- the bottom skin where it sticks out past the fuse-
lower corners of the firewall after the floor goes on, little odd jobs all over
the place. Got that canopy installed yet?
Proseal, the duct-tape of aircraft, just a little pinch between the cheek &
gums!!
DO NOT ARCHIVE this PossumWorks semi-silliness...........
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re:Cork or not to Cork? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
The pro-seal will grow off your hands in a month or two !
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 12/20/03 10:02:22 AM Central Standard Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
> I'm actually curious more about how the hinges rivet to the wing. On the
> RV-7 the wingtip tucks inside the wing skin, so there wouldn't be much room
> for hinges.
>
> On yours did you chop off the wingtip flange so it butts up against the wing
> skin edge, and then you've got half the hinge on the wing skin, half the
> hinge on the wingtip? Something like that?
>
> Just curious how you've made it work...photos would be great, too.
>
Hi Dan-
The hinge attaches to the wing skin with a strip of .040 spacer to offset the
thickness of the glass. It's the same size hinge as used on the cowling and
just fits the skin extension with the eyes sticking out past the edge. (I'm
assuming the -7 has the 1/2" extra skin past the outer rib? I got one of them
obsolete -6A's) Yes, the flange on the tips is removed except for the front 5"
on the top and about 3" on the bottom. This sits inside the wing skin and
holds the front in position and the majority of the hinge is fairly straight
for easy removal/insertion.
A couple of other notes: Install the hinge to the wing first, install the
outer half of the hinge with holes pre-drilled for the rivets, insert a foam
airfoil rib to hold the tips shape, duct-tape the tip firmly in position, then
drill through the glass and the holes in the hinge, doin' the cleko thing as you
go. You have to have a light inside the wingtip to do this- I have small
access panels in the bottom of my wing in the last bay that I could insert the
light with, but I would imagine you could rig a light attached to a rod that
extends through a hole drilled in the front of the tip (easy repair) to
manipulate a light- (any RV builder can do this- you installed a canopy, right?!)
I
also sanded most of the gel coat off the tip along the hinge line to allow more
light to shine through the holes. I've got a so-so fo-to I'll send ya...
I also drilled 1/4" holes in the hinges between the rivet holes for "flox
rivets" - (probably overkill), and installed the rear 2/3 of the foam rib with
fiberglass about 2" outboard of the hinges to help hold the shape of the tip-
I'd probably do this regardless of how you stick 'em on. I spent more time
trying to massage the damn warps out of the tips than installing the hinges
anyway!!
I can't say if this was more trouble than screws as I've never done one that
way, but I do like the way it looks and the easy access to strobes, Navaid
servo, wire conduit, antennas etc.- another advantage to removable tips is access
for removing aileron pushtubes if necessary... I remember a story on the
list years ago about a builder who rivetted on the tips, then installed the wings
only to see the pushtubes leaning against the workbench- uh-oh!!!
I just bolted on my wings, so I know what he went through, but I also now
know there is ONE advantage to a taildragger! But ONLY one!! 8
)
Have fun & good luck- good work on the diary!
Mark
Message 13
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| Subject: | was OAT, now true airspeed. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
As the last reply indicated, it is an extremely useful number for
performance. You know if your dialed in or not. You can tell from one
flight to the next the difference of load, power and altitude . Also as
you start looking for speed, this is the only number that matters. Once
you have had it, you will miss it. I really don't care about indicated,
it is always wrong and needs correcting. Course if all you do is fly
around, you will not care about TAS. But if you do any altitude flying
(above 6k' say) a digital TAS number is really telling.
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kempthornes
Subject: Re: RV-List: Note from Dynon on OAT
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 10:23 AM 12/19/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
><mstewart@iss.net>
>
>One of my upsets with the Dynon was the lack of availability or OAT,
and
>hence, true airspeed. A very very valuable tool when flying above
>sealevel.
Hi Mike,
I have done nothing since flight training days more than estimate TAS
using
the 2% per 1000 feet thing. I didn't even use that when I was flying
below
sea level and I suffered no pain! Especially with GPS, is seems to me
of
little value.
I tried to find how/why to use TAS in several flying books to no
avail. Please say what value you see in knowing the TAS.
I'm rebuilding my panel - tying up loose wiring etc!! Probably Dynon
and Trio.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
==
==
==
==
Message 14
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| Subject: | Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT" <ddavenport5@nc.rr.com>
How are you guys jacking up RV-6 gear legs for wheel maintenance when you've done
the gear stiffening modification. I've seen the attachment that can go onto
the gear leg that Van's sells, but the u-bolt in that arrangement would seem
to crush the wood in the stiffener. Any flashes of brilliance would be appreciated.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Prop Bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
I think I am being misinterpreted......I am talking about the studs that
hold the prop on. Not the alignment bushings.
thanx weasel
>--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
>
> Hey Girls(or Guys),
>I was in the process of installing my prop tonight and it seems that the
>set of studs that i have here with the motor are about 1/8" to long.
They
>protrude through the prop flange and hit the hub housing before the
>flange tightens on the flywheel assembly.
>
Something is definitely amiss. The prop flange bushings do come in
different lengths depending on their use (FP Vs. CS), but unless the
engine has been converted, it shouldn't matter. One bushing is a little
larger dia than the others, and that's what indexes the flywheel to the
crank. You may not have the flywheel indexed correctly. Take out #1
plug and rotate crank to the compression stroke and place the piston at
TDC (Top Dead Center). Now fit the flywheel up on the crank with the 0
at the top. The 0 on the backside of the flywheel should align itself
with the case parting line. and should fit flush with the flange. Metal
props are counterbored to take the extended length of the bushings, if
there are any. I'm not sure of wood props are counterbored or not. The
other way to get around changing the bushings (they ain't cheap) would
be to get a prop spacer and add it to the stack. Problem is, that'll
push the prop forward and you'll have a larger gap between spinner and
cowl. Nothing's simple, is it???? Good luck.
Linn
> So guess I need shorter studs
>to solve the problem. I checked Aircraft Spruce and didn't see any
studs
>listed. Is there some sort of spec. for this stud (i.e. 125000 or 160000
>psi ) that I can use to locate something locally or do I need to contact
>Hartsel? Oh by the way it's a 0-320 with a Hartsel C/S.
>
>
>
>
>Weasel Graber
>-4 wanting to start engine!!!
>Brooksville MS
>
>
>
=
=
=
=
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Prop Bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chopper" <mkellems@tnweb.com>
Check with Saber extensions - He also make the prop bushings @
http://www.geocities.com/sabermfg/index.html about $160 per set.
Mike RV4 5361U do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gil Alexander" <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-List Prop Bolts
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
>
> Weasel(?),
> All you ever wanted to know about prop bushing on Lycoming
> engines is here....
>
>
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/maintenancePublications
/serviceInstructions/SI1098G.pdf
>
> good luck .... gil in Tucson
>
> At 07:51 AM 12/20/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
> >
> >smoothweasel@juno.com wrote:
> >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
> > >
> > > Hey Girls(or Guys),
> > >I was in the process of installing my prop tonight and it seems that
the
> > >set of studs that i have here with the motor are about 1/8" to long.
They
> > >protrude through the prop flange and hit the hub housing before the
> > >flange tightens on the flywheel assembly.
> > >
> >Something is definitely amiss. The prop flange bushings do come in
> >different lengths depending on their use (FP Vs. CS), but unless the
> >engine has been converted, it shouldn't matter. One bushing is a little
> >larger dia than the others, and that's what indexes the flywheel to the
> >crank. You may not have the flywheel indexed correctly. Take out #1
> >plug and rotate crank to the compression stroke and place the piston at
> >TDC (Top Dead Center). Now fit the flywheel up on the crank with the 0
> >at the top. The 0 on the backside of the flywheel should align itself
> >with the case parting line. and should fit flush with the flange. Metal
> >props are counterbored to take the extended length of the bushings, if
> >there are any. I'm not sure of wood props are counterbored or not. The
> >other way to get around changing the bushings (they ain't cheap) would
> >be to get a prop spacer and add it to the stack. Problem is, that'll
> >push the prop forward and you'll have a larger gap between spinner and
> >cowl. Nothing's simple, is it???? Good luck.
> >Linn
> >
> > > So guess I need shorter studs
> > >to solve the problem. I checked Aircraft Spruce and didn't see any
studs
> > >listed. Is there some sort of spec. for this stud (i.e. 125000 or
160000
> > >psi ) that I can use to locate something locally or do I need to
contact
> > >Hartsel? Oh by the way it's a 0-320 with a Hartsel C/S.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Weasel Graber
> > >-4 wanting to start engine!!!
> > >Brooksville MS
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
> RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
> 77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
>
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC]
>
>
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC]
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re:Cork or not to Cork? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
rub some baby oil into your hands....it helps a bunch....trust me.
Evan
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re:Cork or not to Cork?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
> The pro-seal will grow off your hands in a month or two !
>
>
> Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
> Charleston, Arkansas
> "Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Go for the Avery jack kit. No doubt!!!
It's incredibly simple, very safe, and it doesn't require any sort of
clamping. It jacks the plane up from the wheel, where balance is not as big
of an issue.
http://www.averytools.com/showoneitem.cfm?primarykey=618&cat=0&kit=0
For 35 bucks you can't go wrong. It only takes a few hours to modify the
axle nut and then you're done.
If you want photos showing the jack stand and axle nut modification, here
they are:
http://www.rvproject.com/20030411.html (scroll halfway down the page and
you can't miss it)
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID DAVENPORT" <ddavenport5@nc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT" <ddavenport5@nc.rr.com>
>
> How are you guys jacking up RV-6 gear legs for wheel maintenance when
you've done the gear stiffening modification. I've seen the attachment that
can go onto the gear leg that Van's sells, but the u-bolt in that
arrangement would seem to crush the wood in the stiffener. Any flashes of
brilliance would be appreciated.
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re:Cork or not to Cork? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
STOP! don't try to wash the black crap off!
I say, wear the goop badge with pride!
You have joined a very exclusive fraternity. There a lot of RV kits out
there. What with those wimpy quick built kits and all, not all that many
boulders where required to do the stinky, gooey,slippery tank sealant
thingy.
Be proud man! hold your head up high. Wear that sticky black crap happily in
the knowledge that fuel tank leaks are not in your future,,,... AH ...we
hope. {];-) !
I could not help it, the fumes must have got to me again,
Jim in Kelowna do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Cork or not to Cork?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> rub some baby oil into your hands....it helps a bunch....trust me.
> Evan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Oldsfolks@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Re:Cork or not to Cork?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
> >
> > The pro-seal will grow off your hands in a month or two !
> >
> >
> > Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> > RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
> > Charleston, Arkansas
> > "Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
> >
> >
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Propeller Performance |
Netscape/7.1 (ax)
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Listers.
A couple of weeks ago the hot topic on the list was about how the
hartzell sweet spot is around 2600 rpm. I have flown umpteen times since
then and the air has been too rough for any flight tests. Well this
morning it was smooth. I now post some results.
DA = 8205' MSL (I blew my calculations)
OAT 63 Deg F
RPM MAP IAS TAS
2600 24.0 188 207
2500 24.0 185 203
Two runs for each and averaged. Manifold and RPM are from mechanical
gauges. For some reason she just would not spin up to 2700 this morning.
Later this afternoon after it was good and hot I could get 2650 but no
more. I need to adjust the governor.
I plan on doing more when I get the chance.
Happy holidays to all
Gary Zilik
Message 21
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| Subject: | Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> How are you guys jacking up RV-6 gear legs for wheel
> maintenance when you've done the gear stiffening
> modification. I've seen the attachment that can go onto the
> gear leg that Van's sells, but the u-bolt in that arrangement
> would seem to crush the wood in the stiffener. Any flashes of
> brilliance would be appreciated.
>
There are certainly many ways, but I use an inexpensive little floor
jack supported on a few concrete blocks to lift the desired wing. I
screw in a cast iron eye bolt into the tie down, and jack against that.
I orient the floor jack laterally so that as I lift, the wheels of the
floor jack allow it to move laterally. It seems that a couple 12"
concrete blocks and some strips of plywood do the trick.
BTW, this also allows for periodic removal of the gear leg for
inspection. After about 350 hours and two years I did just this, and
found that most of the grease I had put in at installation had
disappeared, with some galled areas.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 424 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
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