---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 12/20/03: 21 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:03 AM - Re: RV-List Prop Bolts (linn walters) 2. 05:09 AM - Re: Baffle Measurements.... (linn walters) 3. 05:28 AM - Detroit area builders (lucky macy) 4. 05:45 AM - Re: RV-7A kit for sale (jerry) 5. 06:32 AM - Re: Note from Dynon on OAT (Larry Pardue) 6. 06:33 AM - Re: Antenna/radio reception (Kevin Horton) 7. 07:12 AM - Re: Wingtips (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 8. 07:54 AM - Re: RV-List Prop Bolts (Gil Alexander) 9. 07:57 AM - Re: Wingtips (Dan Checkoway) 10. 08:32 AM - Re: Cork or not to Cork? (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 11. 08:54 AM - Re:Cork or not to Cork? (Oldsfolks@aol.com) 12. 09:12 AM - Re: Wingtips (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 13. 10:29 AM - was OAT, now true airspeed. (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)) 14. 03:00 PM - Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. (DAVID DAVENPORT) 15. 03:12 PM - Fw: Re: RV-List Prop Bolts (smoothweasel@juno.com) 16. 03:42 PM - Re: RV-List Prop Bolts (Chopper) 17. 04:13 PM - Re: Re:Cork or not to Cork? (Evan and Megan Johnson) 18. 04:23 PM - Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. (Dan Checkoway) 19. 04:46 PM - Re: Re:Cork or not to Cork? (Jim Jewell) 20. 05:37 PM - Propeller Performance (Gary Zilik) 21. 07:20 PM - Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. (Alex Peterson) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:03:12 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-List Prop Bolts --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters smoothweasel@juno.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com > > Hey Girls(or Guys), >I was in the process of installing my prop tonight and it seems that the >set of studs that i have here with the motor are about 1/8" to long. They >protrude through the prop flange and hit the hub housing before the >flange tightens on the flywheel assembly. > Something is definitely amiss. The prop flange bushings do come in different lengths depending on their use (FP Vs. CS), but unless the engine has been converted, it shouldn't matter. One bushing is a little larger dia than the others, and that's what indexes the flywheel to the crank. You may not have the flywheel indexed correctly. Take out #1 plug and rotate crank to the compression stroke and place the piston at TDC (Top Dead Center). Now fit the flywheel up on the crank with the 0 at the top. The 0 on the backside of the flywheel should align itself with the case parting line. and should fit flush with the flange. Metal props are counterbored to take the extended length of the bushings, if there are any. I'm not sure of wood props are counterbored or not. The other way to get around changing the bushings (they ain't cheap) would be to get a prop spacer and add it to the stack. Problem is, that'll push the prop forward and you'll have a larger gap between spinner and cowl. Nothing's simple, is it???? Good luck. Linn > So guess I need shorter studs >to solve the problem. I checked Aircraft Spruce and didn't see any studs >listed. Is there some sort of spec. for this stud (i.e. 125000 or 160000 >psi ) that I can use to locate something locally or do I need to contact >Hartsel? Oh by the way it's a 0-320 with a Hartsel C/S. > > > > >Weasel Graber >-4 wanting to start engine!!! >Brooksville MS > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:09:07 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Baffle Measurements.... --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters My comments aren't RV specific ..... just baffling specific! RV6AOKC@aol.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com > >Howdy again.....time for the 11pm, Friday night, I can't do anymore work in >the garage question....Im finishing up the baffling and about to install the >air seal along the top....as good as the instructions are (not!!!)...I cant find >a measurement of how far I need to overlap the alum. > If you're going to stick with baffle-seal-material, I've found it better to use the silicone (red) stuff as it's easier on aluminum and fiberglas. I put the material on the outside of the aluminum baffle, and cover that with a strip of alum that's about 1/4" higher than the engine baffle. I roll the edge a little forcing the baffle seal to bend inwards. Makes it easier to get the seal laying correctly when the cowl is put on. > and how much material >has to hang over the edge (that forms the seal). > That depends on how much distance is between the aluminum and the cowl. The seal should be lown enough so that it lays kinda flat on the cowl. Too much distance between the alum baffle and the cowl will allow the seal material to blow out and ruin your sealing capability. A good seal is paramount to keeping cylinder temps in check. Nasty things happen when you don't. > Also what you may have used for rivet spacing.... > With the sandwich described above, 2" or 3" spacing should be good. >Vans has a nice set of drawings...but no >measurements....let me know what ya'll think...thanks.... > Actually, I wouldn't even deal with cowl seal material. I'd make a plenum by making a fiberglas (carbon fiber would be better) cover to fit over the engine, and fairing that into the cowl air inlets. This will give you the absolute best seal, and won't give you a problem down the road, as all baffle seal stuff seems to. Linn > >Kurt in OKC... >Only a Few things left....but taking forever.... > >Do Not Archive... > >PS...Happy Holidays...... > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:28:14 AM PST US From: "lucky macy" Subject: RV-List: Detroit area builders --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" Hello, I'm being punished by my wife this year. She's taking us to southern Canada (Michigan) for Christmas which is really upsetting. I traditionally get more work done on my 8 during the holidays than anyther other time so here's an opportunity lost... Anyway, the silver lining in this could be if I could find any builders in the panel or FWF stage of the project and check it out. I'd especially like to see a Dynon or any engine monitoring system up close and personal. We leave this Tuesday. Thanks, Lucky do not archive Make your home warm and cozy this winter with tips from MSN House & Home. http://special.msn.com/home/warmhome.armx ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:45:35 AM PST US From: "jerry" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-7A kit for sale --> RV-List message posted by: "jerry" Hi Terri ... I'm interested and can pick it up with my Dakota pickup and a trailer, real soon. I'd have a certified check for you when I arrive. Send your phone number and I'll call you. Or you can call me 847-669-0939 ... your option. I'm in Northern Illinois, retired, and need something to build and fly. Looking forward to your reply. Jerry Grimmonpre jerry@mc.net ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: RV-7A kit for sale > --> RV-List message posted by: windsaloft@rmisp.com > > This is one of those "Holy Toledo" posts ---- > > I will be leaving Lander, Wyoming for just south of Jacksonville, FL on > January 7 to start a new job on Jan.12 > > I either have to sell my RV-7A project lickity split, or figure out how to > transport it and store it for about 6 months.......... > > I have an empennage kit, completed except for fiberglass. It has the > older rudder, but I have the new rudder kit from vans still in the box. > > I have a wing kit, 1st wing started, in the midst of sealing tanks -- 2d > wing untouched. Flaps and ailerons about 85% done. > > I have a QB fuselage kit that I have opened and inventoried but not done > anything to. > > When I add up the invoices, it exceeds $19,000 in parts. If you came to > Lander, WY and used a U Haul or truck to drive away with it, I'd help you > load it and let it all go for $15,000. I can guarantee (in writing) that > all the parts are there. Need to hear from you before Jan. 3 > > No tools to be sold -- I hope to start anew someday...........and I also > have a flying RV-6A that I have to maintain! > > Terri Watson > N1977D flying > N8862T reserved > windsaloft@rmisp.com > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:32:23 AM PST US From: "Larry Pardue" Subject: Re: RV-List: Note from Dynon on OAT --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" > --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes > > > I tried to find how/why to use TAS in several flying books to no > avail. Please say what value you see in knowing the TAS. > I find the TAS display on my Rocky Mountain MicroEncoder very useful for picking cruising altitudes. By making a quick comparison of TAS and GS during the climb I can instantly see the head or tailwind component. In cruise it is interesting, but not essential information, to see the effects of lift and sink on speed. Sometimes you can see you are in gentle down wave that is killing your speed. Remedied by altering course one way or the other. It is also a quick and dirty way of seeing if I am running about the cruise power I want to. I know I normally cruise around 165 knots. If it is something different I figure out why. Approaching the airport I can see whether to expect wind shear. If I am showing a 30 knot headwind at a thousand feet but the surface wind is 5 knots, watch out. This happened a week ago to me. There are enough nice things about TAS display that I would hate to give it up. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://n5lp.net ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:33:08 AM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna/radio reception --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton >--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski > >Last weekend I heard a radio call from an airport 100 miles away. Is it >normal to have this kind of reception. I never had this happen with rental >planes. > > >Scott Bilinski >Eng dept 305 >Phone (858) 657-2536 >Pager (858) 502-5190 >do not archive > There a many variables at play here - the usual ones you would suspect (quality of antenna installation, transmitter power, altitude, etc) and one that you might not suspect - atmospheric conditions. If you get the right atmospheric conditions the radio waves can travel a long ways in a "duct". See: http://users.whsmithnet.co.uk/colin.martin/radio/ducting.html I ran into this one day when I was flying S-2 Trackers. We took off from St. John's, Newfoundland, and headed east over the Atlantic, VFR at 1500 ft. We didn't need to talk to anyone else, so we just left the radio on the tower frequency. Eventually we stopped hearing tower as it went below the radio horizon. We found some fishing boats over 200 miles off shore, so we descended down to 100 ft to check them out. Suddenly we started picking up St John's tower - at 100 ft above the water, more than 200 miles away. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:12:56 AM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Wingtips --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 12/19/03 7:34:06 PM Central Standard Time, Leesafur@aol.com writes: > Hay that's a good idea but how do you fasten the hinge pin? > The will clip to the inside of the rib that installs in the rear of the tip. There is about a one inch offset from the pin line and the surface of the rib. Haven't done it yet, but the plan is to install a platenut in the outboard side of the rib, about 3" from the rear, then make a little nylon block with a couple of holes drilled through it fore/aft for the pins, and one through the block for a #8 screw into the platenut. Best wishes and happy holidaze from The PossumWorks Mark - plumbing the depths of the cockpit........... ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:54:19 AM PST US From: Gil Alexander Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-List Prop Bolts --> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander Weasel(?), All you ever wanted to know about prop bushing on Lycoming engines is here.... http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/maintenancePublications/serviceInstructions/SI1098G.pdf good luck .... gil in Tucson At 07:51 AM 12/20/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters > >smoothweasel@juno.com wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com > > > > Hey Girls(or Guys), > >I was in the process of installing my prop tonight and it seems that the > >set of studs that i have here with the motor are about 1/8" to long. They > >protrude through the prop flange and hit the hub housing before the > >flange tightens on the flywheel assembly. > > >Something is definitely amiss. The prop flange bushings do come in >different lengths depending on their use (FP Vs. CS), but unless the >engine has been converted, it shouldn't matter. One bushing is a little >larger dia than the others, and that's what indexes the flywheel to the >crank. You may not have the flywheel indexed correctly. Take out #1 >plug and rotate crank to the compression stroke and place the piston at >TDC (Top Dead Center). Now fit the flywheel up on the crank with the 0 >at the top. The 0 on the backside of the flywheel should align itself >with the case parting line. and should fit flush with the flange. Metal >props are counterbored to take the extended length of the bushings, if >there are any. I'm not sure of wood props are counterbored or not. The >other way to get around changing the bushings (they ain't cheap) would >be to get a prop spacer and add it to the stack. Problem is, that'll >push the prop forward and you'll have a larger gap between spinner and >cowl. Nothing's simple, is it???? Good luck. >Linn > > > So guess I need shorter studs > >to solve the problem. I checked Aircraft Spruce and didn't see any studs > >listed. Is there some sort of spec. for this stud (i.e. 125000 or 160000 > >psi ) that I can use to locate something locally or do I need to contact > >Hartsel? Oh by the way it's a 0-320 with a Hartsel C/S. > > > > > > > > > >Weasel Graber > >-4 wanting to start engine!!! > >Brooksville MS > > > > > > > > RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall... 77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:57:36 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Wingtips --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" I'm actually curious more about how the hinges rivet to the wing. On the RV-7 the wingtip tucks inside the wing skin, so there wouldn't be much room for hinges. On yours did you chop off the wingtip flange so it butts up against the wing skin edge, and then you've got half the hinge on the wing skin, half the hinge on the wingtip? Something like that? Just curious how you've made it work...photos would be great, too. Thanks, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Wingtips > --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com > > In a message dated 12/19/03 7:34:06 PM Central Standard Time, > Leesafur@aol.com writes: > > > Hay that's a good idea but how do you fasten the hinge pin? > > > > The will clip to the inside of the rib that installs in the rear of the tip. > There is about a one inch offset from the pin line and the surface of the > rib. Haven't done it yet, but the plan is to install a platenut in the outboard > side of the rib, about 3" from the rear, then make a little nylon block with a > couple of holes drilled through it fore/aft for the pins, and one through the > block for a #8 screw into the platenut. > > Best wishes and happy holidaze from The PossumWorks > Mark - plumbing the depths of the cockpit........... > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:32:24 AM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Cork or not to Cork? --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 12/19/03 11:32:39 PM Central Standard Time, ktlkrn@cox.net writes: > On a final note, I don't care if I ever see Proseal again in this life > time!!!!!!! Anyone know how long this stuff will be on my hands? Oh boy- gazing into my crystal ball I see...................... LOTS of proseal in Darwin's future- the bottom skin where it sticks out past the fuse- lower corners of the firewall after the floor goes on, little odd jobs all over the place. Got that canopy installed yet? Proseal, the duct-tape of aircraft, just a little pinch between the cheek & gums!! DO NOT ARCHIVE this PossumWorks semi-silliness........... ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 08:54:11 AM PST US From: Oldsfolks@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Re:Cork or not to Cork? --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com The pro-seal will grow off your hands in a month or two ! Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now Charleston, Arkansas "Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers" ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 09:12:02 AM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Wingtips --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 12/20/03 10:02:22 AM Central Standard Time, dan@rvproject.com writes: > I'm actually curious more about how the hinges rivet to the wing. On the > RV-7 the wingtip tucks inside the wing skin, so there wouldn't be much room > for hinges. > > On yours did you chop off the wingtip flange so it butts up against the wing > skin edge, and then you've got half the hinge on the wing skin, half the > hinge on the wingtip? Something like that? > > Just curious how you've made it work...photos would be great, too. > Hi Dan- The hinge attaches to the wing skin with a strip of .040 spacer to offset the thickness of the glass. It's the same size hinge as used on the cowling and just fits the skin extension with the eyes sticking out past the edge. (I'm assuming the -7 has the 1/2" extra skin past the outer rib? I got one of them obsolete -6A's) Yes, the flange on the tips is removed except for the front 5" on the top and about 3" on the bottom. This sits inside the wing skin and holds the front in position and the majority of the hinge is fairly straight for easy removal/insertion. A couple of other notes: Install the hinge to the wing first, install the outer half of the hinge with holes pre-drilled for the rivets, insert a foam airfoil rib to hold the tips shape, duct-tape the tip firmly in position, then drill through the glass and the holes in the hinge, doin' the cleko thing as you go. You have to have a light inside the wingtip to do this- I have small access panels in the bottom of my wing in the last bay that I could insert the light with, but I would imagine you could rig a light attached to a rod that extends through a hole drilled in the front of the tip (easy repair) to manipulate a light- (any RV builder can do this- you installed a canopy, right?!) I also sanded most of the gel coat off the tip along the hinge line to allow more light to shine through the holes. I've got a so-so fo-to I'll send ya... I also drilled 1/4" holes in the hinges between the rivet holes for "flox rivets" - (probably overkill), and installed the rear 2/3 of the foam rib with fiberglass about 2" outboard of the hinges to help hold the shape of the tip- I'd probably do this regardless of how you stick 'em on. I spent more time trying to massage the damn warps out of the tips than installing the hinges anyway!! I can't say if this was more trouble than screws as I've never done one that way, but I do like the way it looks and the easy access to strobes, Navaid servo, wire conduit, antennas etc.- another advantage to removable tips is access for removing aileron pushtubes if necessary... I remember a story on the list years ago about a builder who rivetted on the tips, then installed the wings only to see the pushtubes leaning against the workbench- uh-oh!!! I just bolted on my wings, so I know what he went through, but I also now know there is ONE advantage to a taildragger! But ONLY one!! 8 ) Have fun & good luck- good work on the diary! Mark ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 10:29:06 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: was OAT, now true airspeed. From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" As the last reply indicated, it is an extremely useful number for performance. You know if your dialed in or not. You can tell from one flight to the next the difference of load, power and altitude . Also as you start looking for speed, this is the only number that matters. Once you have had it, you will miss it. I really don't care about indicated, it is always wrong and needs correcting. Course if all you do is fly around, you will not care about TAS. But if you do any altitude flying (above 6k' say) a digital TAS number is really telling. Mike Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kempthornes Subject: Re: RV-List: Note from Dynon on OAT --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes At 10:23 AM 12/19/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" > > >One of my upsets with the Dynon was the lack of availability or OAT, and >hence, true airspeed. A very very valuable tool when flying above >sealevel. Hi Mike, I have done nothing since flight training days more than estimate TAS using the 2% per 1000 feet thing. I didn't even use that when I was flying below sea level and I suffered no pain! Especially with GPS, is seems to me of little value. I tried to find how/why to use TAS in several flying books to no avail. Please say what value you see in knowing the TAS. I'm rebuilding my panel - tying up loose wiring etc!! Probably Dynon and Trio. K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now. PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) == == == == ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 03:00:58 PM PST US From: "DAVID DAVENPORT" Subject: RV-List: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT" How are you guys jacking up RV-6 gear legs for wheel maintenance when you've done the gear stiffening modification. I've seen the attachment that can go onto the gear leg that Van's sells, but the u-bolt in that arrangement would seem to crush the wood in the stiffener. Any flashes of brilliance would be appreciated. ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 03:12:41 PM PST US Subject: Fw: Re: RV-List: RV-List Prop Bolts From: smoothweasel@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com I think I am being misinterpreted......I am talking about the studs that hold the prop on. Not the alignment bushings. thanx weasel >--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com > > Hey Girls(or Guys), >I was in the process of installing my prop tonight and it seems that the >set of studs that i have here with the motor are about 1/8" to long. They >protrude through the prop flange and hit the hub housing before the >flange tightens on the flywheel assembly. > Something is definitely amiss. The prop flange bushings do come in different lengths depending on their use (FP Vs. CS), but unless the engine has been converted, it shouldn't matter. One bushing is a little larger dia than the others, and that's what indexes the flywheel to the crank. You may not have the flywheel indexed correctly. Take out #1 plug and rotate crank to the compression stroke and place the piston at TDC (Top Dead Center). Now fit the flywheel up on the crank with the 0 at the top. The 0 on the backside of the flywheel should align itself with the case parting line. and should fit flush with the flange. Metal props are counterbored to take the extended length of the bushings, if there are any. I'm not sure of wood props are counterbored or not. The other way to get around changing the bushings (they ain't cheap) would be to get a prop spacer and add it to the stack. Problem is, that'll push the prop forward and you'll have a larger gap between spinner and cowl. Nothing's simple, is it???? Good luck. Linn > So guess I need shorter studs >to solve the problem. I checked Aircraft Spruce and didn't see any studs >listed. Is there some sort of spec. for this stud (i.e. 125000 or 160000 >psi ) that I can use to locate something locally or do I need to contact >Hartsel? Oh by the way it's a 0-320 with a Hartsel C/S. > > > > >Weasel Graber >-4 wanting to start engine!!! >Brooksville MS > > > = = = = ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 03:42:11 PM PST US From: "Chopper" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-List Prop Bolts --> RV-List message posted by: "Chopper" Check with Saber extensions - He also make the prop bushings @ http://www.geocities.com/sabermfg/index.html about $160 per set. Mike RV4 5361U do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gil Alexander" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-List Prop Bolts > --> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander > > Weasel(?), > All you ever wanted to know about prop bushing on Lycoming > engines is here.... > > http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/maintenancePublications /serviceInstructions/SI1098G.pdf > > good luck .... gil in Tucson > > At 07:51 AM 12/20/2003 -0500, you wrote: > >--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters > > > >smoothweasel@juno.com wrote: > > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com > > > > > > Hey Girls(or Guys), > > >I was in the process of installing my prop tonight and it seems that the > > >set of studs that i have here with the motor are about 1/8" to long. They > > >protrude through the prop flange and hit the hub housing before the > > >flange tightens on the flywheel assembly. > > > > >Something is definitely amiss. The prop flange bushings do come in > >different lengths depending on their use (FP Vs. CS), but unless the > >engine has been converted, it shouldn't matter. One bushing is a little > >larger dia than the others, and that's what indexes the flywheel to the > >crank. You may not have the flywheel indexed correctly. Take out #1 > >plug and rotate crank to the compression stroke and place the piston at > >TDC (Top Dead Center). Now fit the flywheel up on the crank with the 0 > >at the top. The 0 on the backside of the flywheel should align itself > >with the case parting line. and should fit flush with the flange. Metal > >props are counterbored to take the extended length of the bushings, if > >there are any. I'm not sure of wood props are counterbored or not. The > >other way to get around changing the bushings (they ain't cheap) would > >be to get a prop spacer and add it to the stack. Problem is, that'll > >push the prop forward and you'll have a larger gap between spinner and > >cowl. Nothing's simple, is it???? Good luck. > >Linn > > > > > So guess I need shorter studs > > >to solve the problem. I checked Aircraft Spruce and didn't see any studs > > >listed. Is there some sort of spec. for this stud (i.e. 125000 or 160000 > > >psi ) that I can use to locate something locally or do I need to contact > > >Hartsel? Oh by the way it's a 0-320 with a Hartsel C/S. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Weasel Graber > > >-4 wanting to start engine!!! > > >Brooksville MS > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall... > 77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ > > > --- > [This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC] > > --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC] ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 04:13:37 PM PST US From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Cork or not to Cork? --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" rub some baby oil into your hands....it helps a bunch....trust me. Evan ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: Re:Cork or not to Cork? > --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com > > The pro-seal will grow off your hands in a month or two ! > > > Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor > RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now > Charleston, Arkansas > "Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers" > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 04:23:36 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Go for the Avery jack kit. No doubt!!! It's incredibly simple, very safe, and it doesn't require any sort of clamping. It jacks the plane up from the wheel, where balance is not as big of an issue. http://www.averytools.com/showoneitem.cfm?primarykey=618&cat=0&kit=0 For 35 bucks you can't go wrong. It only takes a few hours to modify the axle nut and then you're done. If you want photos showing the jack stand and axle nut modification, here they are: http://www.rvproject.com/20030411.html (scroll halfway down the page and you can't miss it) Best of luck, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "DAVID DAVENPORT" Subject: RV-List: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. > --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT" > > How are you guys jacking up RV-6 gear legs for wheel maintenance when you've done the gear stiffening modification. I've seen the attachment that can go onto the gear leg that Van's sells, but the u-bolt in that arrangement would seem to crush the wood in the stiffener. Any flashes of brilliance would be appreciated. > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 04:46:20 PM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Cork or not to Cork? --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" STOP! don't try to wash the black crap off! I say, wear the goop badge with pride! You have joined a very exclusive fraternity. There a lot of RV kits out there. What with those wimpy quick built kits and all, not all that many boulders where required to do the stinky, gooey,slippery tank sealant thingy. Be proud man! hold your head up high. Wear that sticky black crap happily in the knowledge that fuel tank leaks are not in your future,,,... AH ...we hope. {];-) ! I could not help it, the fumes must have got to me again, Jim in Kelowna do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Cork or not to Cork? > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" > > rub some baby oil into your hands....it helps a bunch....trust me. > Evan > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Subject: RV-List: Re:Cork or not to Cork? > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com > > > > The pro-seal will grow off your hands in a month or two ! > > > > > > Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor > > RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now > > Charleston, Arkansas > > "Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers" > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 05:37:58 PM PST US From: Gary Zilik Subject: RV-List: Propeller Performance Netscape/7.1 (ax) --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik Listers. A couple of weeks ago the hot topic on the list was about how the hartzell sweet spot is around 2600 rpm. I have flown umpteen times since then and the air has been too rough for any flight tests. Well this morning it was smooth. I now post some results. DA = 8205' MSL (I blew my calculations) OAT 63 Deg F RPM MAP IAS TAS 2600 24.0 188 207 2500 24.0 185 203 Two runs for each and averaged. Manifold and RPM are from mechanical gauges. For some reason she just would not spin up to 2700 this morning. Later this afternoon after it was good and hot I could get 2650 but no more. I need to adjust the governor. I plan on doing more when I get the chance. Happy holidays to all Gary Zilik ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 07:20:09 PM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > How are you guys jacking up RV-6 gear legs for wheel > maintenance when you've done the gear stiffening > modification. I've seen the attachment that can go onto the > gear leg that Van's sells, but the u-bolt in that arrangement > would seem to crush the wood in the stiffener. Any flashes of > brilliance would be appreciated. > There are certainly many ways, but I use an inexpensive little floor jack supported on a few concrete blocks to lift the desired wing. I screw in a cast iron eye bolt into the tie down, and jack against that. I orient the floor jack laterally so that as I lift, the wheels of the floor jack allow it to move laterally. It seems that a couple 12" concrete blocks and some strips of plywood do the trick. BTW, this also allows for periodic removal of the gear leg for inspection. After about 350 hours and two years I did just this, and found that most of the grease I had put in at installation had disappeared, with some galled areas. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 424 hours www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson