Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:19 AM - Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
2. 05:50 AM - Fw: Thank you from Jon Johanson (Eustace Bowhay)
3. 07:08 AM - Another Quick Baffle Question... (RV6AOKC@aol.com)
4. 07:54 AM - Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. (DAVID REEL)
5. 08:30 AM - Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. (Kyle Boatright)
6. 09:07 AM - Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. (John)
7. 09:08 AM - Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. (Dan Checkoway)
8. 09:22 AM - Jon Johanson's Thank you Letter (Eustace Bowhay)
9. 09:34 AM - Re: Flying with Bob Archer Com Antennas? (Ross Mickey)
10. 09:38 AM - RV-6/7/9 Wiring instructions (Ken Simmons)
11. 10:26 AM - Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. (Garry Legare)
12. 10:29 AM - Re: RV-6/7/9 Wiring instructions (David Carter)
13. 10:45 AM - Rod end bearing length (Jeff Point)
14. 11:06 AM - Re: RV-6/7/9 Wiring instructions (Ken Simmons)
15. 11:07 AM - Re: RV-6/7/9 Wiring instructions (Ken Simmons)
16. 11:24 AM - Re: Rod end bearing length (Richard E. Tasker)
17. 11:45 AM - Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. (Dave Bristol)
18. 12:46 PM - Re: Rod end bearing length (Sam Buchanan)
19. 05:04 PM - Camloc Fasteners RV6 (Mickey & Paula)
20. 05:45 PM - Re: Rod end bearing length (Alex Peterson)
21. 05:49 PM - Re: Rod end bearing length (Dana Overall)
22. 05:57 PM - Re: Camloc Fasteners RV6 (Paul Besing)
23. 07:31 PM - Re: Rod end bearing length (Dave Bristol)
24. 09:03 PM - Re: Rod end bearing length (Sam Buchanan)
25. 10:50 PM - Re: Rod end bearing length (Mickey Coggins)
26. 11:04 PM - Re: Camloc Fasteners RV6 (Jeff Point)
27. 11:12 PM - Re: Rod end bearing length (Jeff Point)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Fw: Thank you from Jon Johanson |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Johanson" <jonj@senet.com.au>
Subject: Thank you from Jon Johanson
> Hi,
> There are so many people I want to say thanks to. I hope the attached will
> help to do that and to provide some interesting facts.
>
> Please feel free to forward the attached letter to anyone you think may be
> interested.
>
> Season's greetings and regards,
>
>
> Jon Johanson
Message 3
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| Subject: | Another Quick Baffle Question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
Baffling...what fun!!!! Anyway...I'm almost done....trying to do the seal
material btwn the alum and cowl. All is going well, except..... Near the
front of the cowl those pesky ramps that you have to fiberglass into the cowl
don't allow enough room for the material to seal with the cowl. It looks like
I
can trim the material down to almost 1/2 and get it to work (maybe) or get out
the dremmel and hack away at the ramp. (I would need to remove about 1.5 in
of the ramp on the outboard side). Anyone been down this road??
Kurt in OKC ...again....
Do Not Archive....
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Perhaps I'm missing something. How can you get a wheel off to change a tire or
grease a bearing when jack and jack point are inserted in the axle from outside
the wheel? Please enlighten.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
I wondered that myself once upon a time. Anyway, here's how you do it...
1) Jack up the wheel using the jack fixture that inserts into the axle.
2) Slide the wheel outboard.
3) Put a wood block under the axle so the axle rests on it when you lower
the jack. This block must be tall enough to prevent the wheel from touching
the ground.
4) Lower the jack and remove the jack fixture.
5) Pull the wheel off.
6) Reverse the procedure to remount the wheel.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> Perhaps I'm missing something. How can you get a wheel off to change a
tire or grease a bearing when jack and jack point are inserted in the axle
from outside the wheel? Please enlighten.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
A word of caution about using the tie down point and a jack to raise the
wing to remove the wheels. I have done this using a bolt welded onto a pipe
cap that fit over the head of a bottle jack...prevents any chance of
slipping...BUT there seems to be some pressures on the fuel tank, because
after doing this I found a small fuel leak that was not present before using
the tie-down point to jack up the wing...might just have been a coincidence,
but I bought the axle jack and feel better about using it....removing fuel
tanks and fixing leaks is not as much fun as you might expect.
John
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
- jack it up
- loosen axle nut
- slide wheel over on the shaft
- lower jack, lowering axle onto blocks
- pull jack stand out of axle
- wheel is free
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> Perhaps I'm missing something. How can you get a wheel off to change a
tire or grease a bearing when jack and jack point are inserted in the axle
from outside the wheel? Please enlighten.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Jon Johanson's Thank you Letter |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
The following is a attachment that was part of Jon's thank you letter. I tried
to forward it to the list but realize this didn't work so will send it as a post
by myself. It is long but I think it is something that all RVer's would be
interested in.
Eustace Bowhay
Dear friends:
Since returning to Adelaide last Tuesday afternoon I haven't had time to think,
let alone work out what day it is. I am only just becoming aware of the tremendous
amount of help that so many offered to the "mission control" team in Adelaide
over the past eleven days - A mission control like no other, as so many
people around the world have discovered.
Thank you does not seem to cover my gratitude adequately, still all I can say is
thank you, thank you, thank you.
What an amazing couple of weeks it has been. On the 17th of December the 100th
anniversary of the first powered flight - achieved by a couple of home builders
in their experimental aircraft, the Wright Flyer. On the 8th of December, almost
100 years later, it was another home built, experimental aircraft that was
flown solo over the South Pole. RV-4TE VH-NOJ, the first aircraft to be flown
solo to the South Pole. It is all a bit hard to believe.
Despite the years of planning and knowing that we could do this safely, it has
happened quickly enough for me to be tempted to feel that it is all a dream.
Over the eleven days we were away, VH-NOJ carried me 8,282 nautical miles (15,338
km) in 61 hours and 15 minutes at an average speed of 135 knots (250 kph).
The years of planning to conquer the South Pole safely have paid off with even
the bureaucrats getting their moment in the sun. In time the bureaucracy will
be forgotten, as it should be, and only the achievement will be remembered.
Something that should never be forgotten though, is the generosity of one adventurous
spirit to another - Polly Vacher and her team's selfless generosity in
allowing me to use some of the fuel to safely complete my polar flight. How disappointing
it must have been for Polly not to be able to reach her goal, but
how typical of a team who have dedicated their time to helping disabled people
gain their ultimate freedom through FLYING SCHOLARSHIPS FOR THE DISABLED ww.reachforthesky@btinternet.com
May I again say thank you to everyone and wish you season's greetings and a happy
prosperous new year.
Kind Regards
Jon Johanson
An ordinary Australian doing extraordinary things.
Pilot: Jon Johanson
License: Australian Air Transport License (ATPL) with command multi engine instrument
rating (CIR).
Total flying experience: 5.890 hrs.
Total time on type (RV 4) 3,242 hrs.
Previous Polar experience: Northern Canada flight in company with Eustace Bowhay
who has a life time of arctic experience, Yellowknife to the Northern Canadian
coast, 1998. Trans -Polar flight, CYZF (Yellowknife) - CYEU (Eureka) - ENSB
(Longyear, Spitsbergen) 2000.
Aircraft: RV 4TE VH-NOJ
Engine: AERO SPORT POWER (I0-360 M1B6) 180 HP. Turbo normalized, 5.8 litre four
cylinder horizontally opposed, air cooled with programmable ignition.
Fuel: Avgas/Mogas
Fuel burn: Average 30 litres per hour, (Uses 10 litres per 100km, slightly better
than a V6 Toyota Camry).
Speed: Average 162kts (300 kph)
Range: Still air average - 5,832 nm (10,800km)
Endurance: Average - 36 hours non stop.
Safety Equipment:
EMERGENCY CHEST PACK
Singe place life raft
Life Jacket
406 satellite/GPS emergency locator beacon
121.5/243 emergency locator beacon
Emergency flares
Desalination unit
Emergency rations (7 days)
Water
Sun Block
Signaling mirror
Anti emetic medicine
General first aid equipment
Safety Knife
POLAR SURVIVAL PACK
Polar, down sleeping bag
Space blanket
Thermal protection mattress
Polar bivvy (sleeping bag tent)
Backpackers pillow
Electrically heated jacket, pants, socks and gloves
Freezer over-suit
Thermal underwear
Nomex fire resistant flying suit
Leather extreme weather hiking boots
Sponsors:
Aero Sport Power - Engine building
Air BP/Castrol - Fuel and oil
Andair - Quality fuel selectors etc.
Aviaquip - Aircraft part supplies
Bennet Built - Carbon fiber wheel spats
Custom Aero - Custom aircraft rebuild, engine/turbo fit and tune
Dayton Signs - Sign writing
Fairydown - Discount polar survival equipment
Garmin - GPS technology
Good Year - Aircraft tyres
JPinstruments - Engine monitoring instruments
Lightspeed Engineering - electronic ignition
Micro Aerodynamics Inc. - Vortex generators
MT Propeller - Custom built, three blade constant speed propeller
QBE Aviation - Insurance
Riverina Airmotive- Engine tuning and consultancy
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Flying with Bob Archer Com Antennas? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Laird Owens" <owens@aerovironment.com>
> Ross,
> It sounds like your confusing the VOR antenna I have and the COM
> antenna. I've heard the COM antenna doesn't work well in the
> wingtip, but I've also 2 local friends that like theirs.
> Laird
You are right. I have the Com antenna and find it very weak compared to my
belly mounted standard com antenna. Since my Apollo GX 60 GPS/COM has a
monitoring function, I am only using the Nav/Com as a backup and will
probably leave it as is. If there are folks who are satisfied with tier Com
wingtip installations, I would like to know how they installed them.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
20 hours....almost there
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV-6/7/9 Wiring instructions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
As someone suggested on the list, I bought the instruction set for the wiring harness
that Van's has to help plan my wiring. I'm building an RV-8, but for some
reason they sent me the instructions set for the 6/7/9. They did send me the
correct set, but they didn't want the other one back.
So... I've got a set of RV6/7/9 Wiring harness instructions free to the first taker.
This is just the instruction/drawing set not the entire harness kit.
Ken
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Garry Legare <versadek@earthlink.net>
Dave,
I hate to even mention this, but hey I've got a really good delete key,
so hear goes. What I've done many times is crouch under the wing with my
shoulder blades against the wing spar and just lift it up. I have a
piece of foam between my back and the underside of the wing. I have the
axle nut loose, the brake caliper apart. and a appropriate sized block
of wood or auto jack stand ready to put in place. An assistant just
undoes the axle nut the rest of the way, slides the wheel assembly off
and sets the stand under the axle.
Of coarse all the caveats about hurting your back etc. do apply. Also
it's a lot easier if you have no fuel in the tanks.
If you use both the jacking/ tie down point on a tail dragger at the
same time they will fall on their nose.
Casper
Have a great holiday season.
DAVID DAVENPORT wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT" <ddavenport5@nc.rr.com>
>
>How are you guys jacking up RV-6 gear legs for wheel maintenance when you've done
the gear stiffening modification. I've seen the attachment that can go onto
the gear leg that Van's sells, but the u-bolt in that arrangement would seem
to crush the wood in the stiffener. Any flashes of brilliance would be appreciated.
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6/7/9 Wiring instructions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Ken, I'd like to look at the Van's wiring plan: David Carter, 619 S. 16th
St, Nederland, Texas 77627
Thanks for the offer.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6/7/9 Wiring instructions
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
> As someone suggested on the list, I bought the instruction set for the
wiring harness that Van's has to help plan my wiring. I'm building an RV-8,
but for some reason they sent me the instructions set for the 6/7/9. They
did send me the correct set, but they didn't want the other one back.
>
> So... I've got a set of RV6/7/9 Wiring harness instructions free to the
first taker. This is just the instruction/drawing set not the entire harness
kit.
>
> Ken
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Rod end bearing length |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
While doing the final fit of my elevators and pushrods, I found that the
rear pushrod is a bit too short, maybe 3/16 inch. Each rod end bearing
has about 3/16 inch less than the required 1/2 of the threads screwed
in. It occured to me that by using more than one jamb nut (essentially
double-nutting the jamb nuts) I could reduce the length of exposed
thread so that the bearings could not back out at either end. Is this
acceptable practice?
Jeff Point
RV-6 at airport, final assembly
Milwaukee WI
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6/7/9 Wiring instructions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
As expected, that didn't take long. They're spoken for.
Ken
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
>As someone suggested on the list, I bought the instruction set for the wiring
harness that Van's has to help plan my wiring. I'm building an RV-8, but for some
reason they sent me the instructions set for the 6/7/9. They did send me the
correct set, but they didn't want the other one back.
>
>So... I've got a set of RV6/7/9 Wiring harness instructions free to the first
taker. This is just the instruction/drawing set not the entire harness kit.
>
>Ken
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6/7/9 Wiring instructions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
Sorry, already gone.
Ken
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
>Ken, I'd like to look at the Van's wiring plan: David Carter, 619 S. 16th
>St, Nederland, Texas 77627
>
>Thanks for the offer.
>
>David
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: RV-6/7/9 Wiring instructions
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>>
>> As someone suggested on the list, I bought the instruction set for the
>wiring harness that Van's has to help plan my wiring. I'm building an RV-8,
>but for some reason they sent me the instructions set for the 6/7/9. They
>did send me the correct set, but they didn't want the other one back.
>>
>> So... I've got a set of RV6/7/9 Wiring harness instructions free to the
>first taker. This is just the instruction/drawing set not the entire harness
>kit.
>>
>> Ken
>>
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Rod end bearing length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
You should ask Vans, but my I believe that it is not the fact that the
thread is "exposed" but the fact there is not enough thread length that
is screwed into the end fitting. Adding jam nuts will not affect that.
For example, if we carried your solution to the extreme we could end up
with only one thread in the fitting and the rest "covered" by jam nuts -
not likely very airworthy :-) !
just my $0.02
Dick Tasker, RV9A 90573
Jeff Point wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
>While doing the final fit of my elevators and pushrods, I found that the
>rear pushrod is a bit too short, maybe 3/16 inch. Each rod end bearing
>has about 3/16 inch less than the required 1/2 of the threads screwed
>in. It occured to me that by using more than one jamb nut (essentially
>double-nutting the jamb nuts) I could reduce the length of exposed
>thread so that the bearings could not back out at either end. Is this
>acceptable practice?
>
>Jeff Point
>RV-6 at airport, final assembly
>Milwaukee WI
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Or, just attach a screw clamp to the gear leg just below the fairing and
use any floor or scissors jack. The clamp can be turned and left on the
gear leg.
If you use a "jack fixture" then you'll have to cart it around with you
unless you have some other way of jacking the airplane.
Dave -6, So Cal
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
>I wondered that myself once upon a time. Anyway, here's how you do it...
>
>1) Jack up the wheel using the jack fixture that inserts into the axle.
>
>2) Slide the wheel outboard.
>
>3) Put a wood block under the axle so the axle rests on it when you lower
>the jack. This block must be tall enough to prevent the wheel from touching
>the ground.
>
>4) Lower the jack and remove the jack fixture.
>
>5) Pull the wheel off.
>
>6) Reverse the procedure to remount the wheel.
>
>KB
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>To: "rvlist" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Jacking up gear legs for wheel mtnce.
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>>
>>Perhaps I'm missing something. How can you get a wheel off to change a
>>
>>
>tire or grease a bearing when jack and jack point are inserted in the axle
>from outside the wheel? Please enlighten.
>
>
>>Dave Reel - RV8A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Rod end bearing length |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Jeff Point wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
> While doing the final fit of my elevators and pushrods, I found that the
> rear pushrod is a bit too short, maybe 3/16 inch. Each rod end bearing
> has about 3/16 inch less than the required 1/2 of the threads screwed
> in. It occured to me that by using more than one jamb nut (essentially
> double-nutting the jamb nuts) I could reduce the length of exposed
> thread so that the bearings could not back out at either end. Is this
> acceptable practice?
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 at airport, final assembly
> Milwaukee WI
>
Jeff, using an additional nut should work fine as long as you are
satisfied that enough thread is engaged in the pushrod to insure safety.
I have also seen spacers installed between the nut and bearing to
prevent the rod from rotating and "unscrewing" one of the bearings. Your
suggestion accomplishes the same objective.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Camloc Fasteners RV6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin@sweetwaterhsa.com>
Is there any dis-advantage to using the camloc fasteners for the cowling rather
than the hinges used in the plans?
It looks like the hinge pins would be a nuisance.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Rod end bearing length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> > While doing the final fit of my elevators and pushrods, I
> found that
> > the
> > rear pushrod is a bit too short, maybe 3/16 inch. Each rod
> end bearing
> > has about 3/16 inch less than the required 1/2 of the
> threads screwed
> > in. It occured to me that by using more than one jamb nut
> (essentially
> > double-nutting the jamb nuts) I could reduce the length of exposed
> > thread so that the bearings could not back out at either
> end. Is this
> > acceptable practice?
> >
> > Jeff Point
> > RV-6 at airport, final assembly
> > Milwaukee WI
> >
>
> Jeff, using an additional nut should work fine as long as you are
> satisfied that enough thread is engaged in the pushrod to
> insure safety.
> I have also seen spacers installed between the nut and bearing to
> prevent the rod from rotating and "unscrewing" one of the
> bearings. Your
> suggestion accomplishes the same objective.
>
> Sam Buchanan
> http://thervjournal.com
I would agree, but an additional requirement is that enough threads are
captured EVEN if the whole thing rotates all the way towards one end.
If there is any doubt, buy a new tube and rebuild the thing. Otherwise,
you will lie awake wondering about it, as you should.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 424 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Rod end bearing length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Jeff, yes a spacer, extra nut etc. to take up the space which would allow
you have have less exposed thread than internal thread would be acceptable.
You're thinking along the correct lines.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Make your home warm and cozy this winter with tips from MSN House & Home.
http://special.msn.com/home/warmhome.armx
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Camloc Fasteners RV6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
The hinges are a nuisance for some people. I had problems, and used Skybolt
fasteners along the top and bottom. I kept the hinges on the sides, which
seemed to provide a better grip along the sides.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (RV-10 Soon)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin@sweetwaterhsa.com>
Subject: RV-List: Camloc Fasteners RV6
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mickey & Paula"
<mimartin@sweetwaterhsa.com>
>
> Is there any dis-advantage to using the camloc fasteners for the cowling
rather than the hinges used in the plans?
> It looks like the hinge pins would be a nuisance.
>
>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin@sweetwaterhsa.com>
Subject: RV-List: Camloc Fasteners RV6
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mickey & Paula"
<mimartin@sweetwaterhsa.com>
>
> Is there any dis-advantage to using the camloc fasteners for the cowling
rather than the hinges used in the plans?
> It looks like the hinge pins would be a nuisance.
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Rod end bearing length |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Jeff,
I'd be concerned about WHY it's too short - something is amiss
somewhere. Have you checked the front pushrod to see if it's adjusted
too short? Or is the rear tube actually cut too short? I'd want to
correct the cause of the problem, not just fix the symptom.
Dave Bristol -6 So Cal,
EAA Technical counselor
Jeff Point wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
>While doing the final fit of my elevators and pushrods, I found that the
>rear pushrod is a bit too short, maybe 3/16 inch. Each rod end bearing
>has about 3/16 inch less than the required 1/2 of the threads screwed
>in. It occured to me that by using more than one jamb nut (essentially
>double-nutting the jamb nuts) I could reduce the length of exposed
>thread so that the bearings could not back out at either end. Is this
>acceptable practice?
>
>Jeff Point
>RV-6 at airport, final assembly
>Milwaukee WI
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Rod end bearing length |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Alex Peterson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
>
>>>While doing the final fit of my elevators and pushrods, I
>>
>>found that
>>
>>>the
>>>rear pushrod is a bit too short, maybe 3/16 inch. Each rod
>>
>>end bearing
>>
>>>has about 3/16 inch less than the required 1/2 of the
>>
>>threads screwed
>>
>>>in. It occured to me that by using more than one jamb nut
>>
>>(essentially
>>
>>>double-nutting the jamb nuts) I could reduce the length of exposed
>>>thread so that the bearings could not back out at either
>>
>>end. Is this
>>
>>>acceptable practice?
>>>
>>>Jeff Point
>>>RV-6 at airport, final assembly
>>>Milwaukee WI
>>>
>>
>>Jeff, using an additional nut should work fine as long as you are
>>satisfied that enough thread is engaged in the pushrod to
>>insure safety.
>>I have also seen spacers installed between the nut and bearing to
>>prevent the rod from rotating and "unscrewing" one of the
>>bearings. Your
>>suggestion accomplishes the same objective.
>>
>>Sam Buchanan
>>http://thervjournal.com
>
>
> I would agree, but an additional requirement is that enough threads are
> captured EVEN if the whole thing rotates all the way towards one end.
> If there is any doubt, buy a new tube and rebuild the thing. Otherwise,
> you will lie awake wondering about it, as you should.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 424 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
I am assisting the builders of a Pitts S-1 as their EAA Tech Counselor.
We discussed the remote possibility of having an aileron pushrod rotate
enough to disconnect a rod end bearing if the bearings aren't installed
properly; one idea we pursued (even after insuring adequate threads were
inside the pushrod) was to put a length of rubber hose on the rod end
bearings to prevent a bearing from unscrewing more than a turn or so
even if the lock nut was completely loose. After studying this setup, I
think it will be included in all rod end bearing installations I make
from now on.
Sam Buchanan
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Rod end bearing length |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>... one idea we pursued (even after insuring adequate threads were
>inside the pushrod) was to put a length of rubber hose on the rod end
>bearings to prevent a bearing from unscrewing more than a turn or so
>even if the lock nut was completely loose. ...
Hi Sam,
I'm having a bit of trouble understanding how this would
work. Perhaps my morning cup of caffeine has not yet gotten
into the bloodstream. Do you have any pictures of this you
can point me to?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
GSM: +41-79-210-3762
FAX: +41-86-079-210-3762
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007
Empennage complete, waiting for wings to arrive
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Camloc Fasteners RV6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
The major disadvantage is cost, about $450 from Skybolt. They usually
have a 30% off sale around the major airshows, I bought mine last year
during Sun and Fun (not at the show) and saved a bundle. They make cowl
removal a snap, I highly recommend them.
Jeff Point
Mickey & Paula wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin@sweetwaterhsa.com>
>
>Is there any dis-advantage to using the camloc fasteners for the cowling rather
than the hinges used in the plans?
>It looks like the hinge pins would be a nuisance.
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Rod end bearing length |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Thanks to all who responded about the rod ends. In the end, I remade
the forward tube by shortening it about 3/4 inch (it was too long, even
with the bearings screwed in all the way) which solved the problem with
the rear pushrod. I tested both by rotating them to both extremes and
the rod ends remain intact.
On a related note, someone mentioned the minimum thread engagement.
What is the minimum thread engagement for a rod end bearing? For
example, the elevator and rudder bearings, where the bearing rotating
out is not an issue. While getting everything ready for final assmebly,
I removed and inspected the bearings. I was surprised to find that some
of them were only engaged into the nutplates about 5 threads (as shown
by the wear marks on the threads.) This is using the proper dimensions
for the elevator/ HS gap. Is this normal?
There sure is a lot to this "final assembly" stuff...
Jeff Point
RV-6 final assembly
Milwaukee, WI
>
>
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