Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:00 AM - New lightweight sump from Superior...cool (czechsix@juno.com)
2. 04:14 AM - Engine input-Please (Dana Overall)
3. 04:17 AM - O-320 if anyone is interested (Dana Overall)
4. 05:07 AM - Re: Engine input-Please (Cy Galley)
5. 07:42 AM - Re: Engine input-Please (Michael McGee)
6. 08:30 AM - Re: Engine input-Please (kempthornes)
7. 08:36 AM - Re: Wing Kit Questions (Phil Birkelbach)
8. 08:43 AM - Re: of OAT probes and NACA ducts... (SportAV8R@aol.com)
9. 08:51 AM - Re: New lightweight sump from Superior...cool (Phil Birkelbach)
10. 09:04 AM - Re: Engine input-Please (Dana Overall)
11. 09:11 AM - Re: Engine input-Please (Kyle Boatright)
12. 10:24 AM - Re: of OAT probes and NACA ducts... (Mark Phillips)
13. 10:26 AM - Aileron Counterbalance Weight (Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com)
14. 10:42 AM - submission (Vern Darley,II)
15. 10:51 AM - Re: Cowl Installation (Elsa & Henry)
16. 11:13 AM - RV-6 Damaged Rudder Tailing edge. (Ed Anderson)
17. 01:55 PM - Re: Engine input-Please (Cy Galley)
18. 02:01 PM - Re:RV-6 Rudder Damaged Trailing edge (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
19. 02:18 PM - Speaking of Paint Schemes... (Bill VonDane)
20. 02:23 PM - Re: Re:RV-6 Rudder Damaged Trailing edge (Ed Anderson)
21. 02:28 PM - RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing (Doug Weiler)
22. 03:03 PM - Re: RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing (Scott Bilinski)
23. 03:33 PM - Re: Engine input-Please (Eustace Bowhay)
24. 04:34 PM - Dynon D-10 (Ron Patterson)
25. 05:01 PM - Re: Engine input-Please (J. R. Dial)
26. 05:02 PM - Re: Dynon D-10 (Ken Simmons)
27. 06:30 PM - Re: of OAT probes and NACA ducts... (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
28. 06:41 PM - Re: Dynon D-10 (Paul Besing)
29. 07:02 PM - (Ron Patterson)
30. 07:12 PM - Re: Dynon D-10 (Sam Buchanan)
31. 07:35 PM - Re: Engine input-Please (Dana Overall)
32. 07:36 PM - Re: Dynon D-10 (Doug Rozendaal)
33. 07:47 PM - Re: [rv8list] Paint Scheme Wanted (lucky macy)
34. 08:31 PM - Re: Engine input-Please (janenjoe@juno.com)
35. 08:45 PM - SL-40 Intercom/monitor function (bruno)
36. 08:51 PM - Re: Engine input-Please (Tony Castellano)
37. 09:17 PM - Metal lock nuts for 5/16 X 18 carb studs (Rick Fogerson)
38. 10:06 PM - Re: Metal lock nuts for 5/16 X 18 carb studs (Dan Checkoway)
39. 10:14 PM - Re: Metal lock nuts for 5/16 X 18 carb studs (Gil Alexander)
Message 1
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| Subject: | New lightweight sump from Superior...cool |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys, did you see this on Avweb? Sounds pretty cool. I'm impressed by what Superior
is doing...
Do not archive
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D painting...
New engine designs are intriguing, but sometimes it's new materials that drive
technological advances. Superior Air Parts, of Coppell, Texas, announced this
week it has successfully completed testing of its new composite sump/induction
system built with Ryton, a resin product made by Chevron Phillips. The new Ryton
sump will reduce the weight of the XP-360 Engine (TM) by eight pounds (half
the weight of the old-style aluminum sump), Superior said in a news release.
Ryton is a polyphenylene sulfide resin product and provides a lighter-weight
alternative to metals that are resistant to corrosion and all fluids associated
with piston engines, the company said. "The new Ryton sump is another example
of our commitment to bring the latest technology to the general and sport aviation
market," said Tim Archer, Superior's senior VP. Superior Air Parts is the
world's largest manufacturer of FAA-approved replacement parts for Lycoming
and Continental aircraft engines.
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 2
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| Subject: | Engine input-Please |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I am to the point if a good engine comes along, at the right price, I'll
buy. I have found a O-360-A1F6D that came out of a Cardinal as a result of
new owners purchase. The only thing I know of this engine is: 180HP, 2700
RPM, 100/100LL, 8.50:1, Same as -A1F6 (has (1) sixth and (1) eighth order
counterweights) with D4LN-3000 impluse coupling dual mags...........then
goes back to "same as A1A.
The engine has 900 hours TT, and comes with mags, carb, starter and all
logs. Very acceptable compressions when removed two years ago.
I'm having the logs faxed to me today. I want to make a decison on this
shortly if it is the right engine at the right time.
Here's where this great list comes in: Does anyone know anything about this
engine, good, bad indifferent. Just as important at this point is the price
so please take a couple guesses at what this engine is worth on the market.
I could really use any learned thoughts or unlearned opinions.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | O-320 if anyone is interested |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
If a 320 is in your picture, you may want to at least look at this one.
http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/marcusc/engine/engineforsale.htm
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Engine input-Please |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Isn't the 3000 a single drive dual mag. If so it is the first thing to get
rid of.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine input-Please
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> I am to the point if a good engine comes along, at the right price, I'll
> buy. I have found a O-360-A1F6D that came out of a Cardinal as a result
of
> new owners purchase. The only thing I know of this engine is: 180HP, 2700
> RPM, 100/100LL, 8.50:1, Same as -A1F6 (has (1) sixth and (1) eighth order
> counterweights) with D4LN-3000 impluse coupling dual mags...........then
> goes back to "same as A1A.
>
> The engine has 900 hours TT, and comes with mags, carb, starter and all
> logs. Very acceptable compressions when removed two years ago.
>
> I'm having the logs faxed to me today. I want to make a decison on this
> shortly if it is the right engine at the right time.
>
> Here's where this great list comes in: Does anyone know anything about
this
> engine, good, bad indifferent. Just as important at this point is the
price
> so please take a couple guesses at what this engine is worth on the
market.
>
> I could really use any learned thoughts or unlearned opinions.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Engine input-Please |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
I assume that since it came out of a high wing Cardinal that it doesn't
have an engine driven fuel pump and you'll need to alter something?
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
At 07:13 2003-07-17 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>I am to the point if a good engine comes along, at the right price, I'll
>buy. I have found a O-360-A1F6D that came out of a Cardinal as a result of
>new owners purchase. The only thing I know of this engine is: 180HP, 2700
>RPM, 100/100LL, 8.50:1, Same as -A1F6 (has (1) sixth and (1) eighth order
>counterweights) with D4LN-3000 impluse coupling dual mags...........then
>goes back to "same as A1A.
>
>The engine has 900 hours TT, and comes with mags, carb, starter and all
>logs. Very acceptable compressions when removed two years ago.
>
>I'm having the logs faxed to me today. I want to make a decison on this
>shortly if it is the right engine at the right time.
>
>Here's where this great list comes in: Does anyone know anything about this
>engine, good, bad indifferent. Just as important at this point is the price
>so please take a couple guesses at what this engine is worth on the market.
>
>I could really use any learned thoughts or unlearned opinions.
>
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>RV-7 slider/fuselage
>Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Engine input-Please |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Do you mean figure in one electronic ignition ??
hal
At 07:10 AM 7/17/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>Isn't the 3000 a single drive dual mag. If so it is the first thing to get
>rid of.
>
>Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
>
>Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Engine input-Please
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> >
> > I am to the point if a good engine comes along, at the right price, I'll
> > buy. I have found a O-360-A1F6D that came out of a Cardinal as a result
>of
> > new owners purchase. The only thing I know of this engine is: 180HP, 2700
> > RPM, 100/100LL, 8.50:1, Same as -A1F6 (has (1) sixth and (1) eighth order
> > counterweights) with D4LN-3000 impluse coupling dual mags...........then
> > goes back to "same as A1A.
> >
> > The engine has 900 hours TT, and comes with mags, carb, starter and all
> > logs. Very acceptable compressions when removed two years ago.
> >
> > I'm having the logs faxed to me today. I want to make a decison on this
> > shortly if it is the right engine at the right time.
> >
> > Here's where this great list comes in: Does anyone know anything about
>this
> > engine, good, bad indifferent. Just as important at this point is the
>price
> > so please take a couple guesses at what this engine is worth on the
>market.
> >
> > I could really use any learned thoughts or unlearned opinions.
> >
> >
> > Dana Overall
> > Richmond, KY
> > RV-7 slider/fuselage
> > Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
> > http://rvflying.tripod.com
> > do not archive
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Kit Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
Ditto. I am going with the Tru-Trak for the reason cited below (solid
state, no moving parts, etc..) but also because they simply have more
options available. If the NASDAQ will improve I'll be able to buy the
DigiFlight 100 which is upgradeable to the two axis version with a software
load and servo. Another thing to consider is the designer of the Navaid is
no longer associated with that product (somebody correct me if I am wrong on
this) but the TruTrak stuff is still under development and since it is solid
state and not mechanical, features can be added through a serial port
instead of having to be fabricated from parts.
You don't have to decide on an autopilot right off the bat. The TruTrak
would be pretty easy to retrofit and I left the bottom skins off of the
wings until I was ready to mount them to the fuse and I was sure that I had
everything in there that I wanted. If you go with TruTrak you can just buy
the servo and decide which 'head' you want to get later. I was also able to
get just the install kit for the pitch servo from them and put it in even
though I don't plan to upgrade to 2-axis until later. Now all I have to do
is bolt the servo in and plug in the wire when the time comes to upgrade.
I am going with the GRT EIS-4000 for all the reasons that Mark cites, but I
am going with the EI fuel gauge. I decided that I could live without the
analog representations of all the engine data, but in talking with a guy who
has a GRT EIS on his ultralight I decided that I wanted a separate gauge for
fuel level. Besides that'll give me a couple of extra inputs on the EIS for
other stuff. And that EI fuel gauge is really cool looking. :-)
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix@juno.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Kit Questions
> --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
> Hi Scott,
>
> First let me say I'm not flying quite yet, so my advice is not from
first-hand in-flight experience with the specific hardware in question here,
but instead based on a lot of research into the options, the experience of
others, and my perspective as an avionics systems engineer:
>
> 1) For the wing leveler, I bought the Trutrak Digitrak unit. It's only a
little more expensive than the Navaid, weighs about the same for the whole
system, and has two big advantages over the Navaid: the control head is
solid state, and the servo has no clutch. Bottom line is (all other things
being equal) the Digitrak will last a lot longer (not as many moving parts
to wear out) and operate with greater precision. I know some of the guys
using Navaids are happy as a clam with these units and this is not meant as
an insult to them, I'm glad they're happy with it. But I know others have
had some trouble getting them set up to work well, and I have a friend with
one in his Long-EZ who wants to replace it with a Digitrak. The reason we
put digital solid-state autopilots in bizjets, fighters and airliners isn't
just because it sounds sexy and high-tech and costs a lot of money, it's
because there are decided advantages that have made spinning gyros obsolete.
The Navaid us!
> ed to offer a good value in that it offered acceptable performance and was
the only thing available in it's price range that would keep you right side
up and more or less on course. Now you can get superior technology at a
very competitive price...the Digitrak.
>
> 2) I have an EIS-4000 because of the outstanding reputation from its many
users, and my firsthand experience with Greg Toman at Grand Rapids who has
been a pleasure to work with and has incorporated some custom features in my
unit at no extra cost. I think this unit is the best thing going in the
"bang-for-the-buck" category of digital engine monitors. It's capable, easy
to set up and use, light, inexpensive, reliable, and takes up minimal panel
space. The only disadvantage is that it doesn't have gauge displays like
the bigger, pricier monitors....they are easier for the eye to read and spot
trends at a glance than digital characters alone, but the importance of this
is not as great when you incorporate the limit alarms that the EIS features.
The fancier displays are nice but not necessary.
>
> Fuel probes: the EIS-4000 will work with almost any fuel probe out there,
ask Greg Toman if you want to be sure before buying. I installed Van's
float sensors but then Greg started offering some nice Princeton capacitive
probes that are custom bent and fit for RV tanks, so I bought them to
retrofit before I put the wings on for final assembly. Whatever you do I'd
go capacitive...it's not much more expensive and it should mean you'll never
have to service it (as opposed to the floats, where more than one RV'er has
had to pull them out and change them...not a fun job).
>
> Bottom line is if you want to spend more time flying and less time fixing
things, and save weight and increase reliability, go solid state and
eliminate mechanical moving parts wherever possible. This applies to
autopilots, fuel probes, vacuum pumps (horrors!), gyros of any kind (I've
got a Dynon, and no spinning masses of any sort in my panel), engine
instruments, etc. The only exception to this rule that I can think of is
for a prop...the rule still applies in that a fixed-pitch prop (no moving
parts) is more reliable than a constant-speed, but unlike the other things
I've listed, the constant-speed prop has a decided performance *advantage*
in it's favor. I've got fixed-pitch now, but C.S. is in the long-term
plans...
>
> Just my humble $.02, no offense to any vacuum-sucking, steam-gauge-loving,
clutch-clinging, spinning-mass aficionados out there : )
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D painting...
>
> Time: 10:00:47 PM PST US
> Subject: RV-List: Wing Kit Questions
> From: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> I just got the great news that my wing kit shipped today, and I am need to
make
> some "wing" decisions. I would appreciate any feedback on the following:
>
> 1) Wing-leveler (Navaid vs. Trutrak) - Based on bang for the buck (one of
my most
> dominant considerations), everything I have read in the archives sounds
like
> the Navaid is a better choice. I do plan to fly IFR, so I will definitely
get
> one or the other. I would appreciate hearing from anyone that strongly
supports
> the Trutrak as a better option.
>
> 2) Guages (fuel monitoring) - Based on the reputation of some of the
Vans-labeled
> guages (and installation benefits), I think I will be going with the Grand
> Rapids EIS-4000 for engine monitoring. I would appreciate hearing any
"dislikes"
> people might have with the Grand Rapids (haven't heard many). Also what
type
> of fuel senders they require (Van's resistive, Van's capacitance, other).
> FYI...the fancy ones (Vision, ACS, etc.) are out of my price range.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A
>
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: of OAT probes and NACA ducts... |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
In a message dated 07/16/2003 1:19:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, HCRV6@aol.com
writes:
> Since it's apparent that the NACA duct is not a good place to locate OAT
> probes, what kind of success has anyone had with other locations? Several
> people
> have mentioned the wing root, but it seems to me that if there is enough
> airflow to give reasonable response time that hot air leaking from the cowl
> will
> still be a factor, true or am I missing something (again)? Anyone out there
> got
> any real data on that location?
>
One point I hoped to address in starting this thread was whether the fuselage
side is the proper location for a cool air inlet in the first place. If this
6 or 7 degree Celsius rise is real, this does not seem like the best place to
pick off airflow for cockpit ventilation! I think if I had it to do over,
I'd go with an underwing NACA scoop of some sort as a few others have done.
-Bill B
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: New lightweight sump from Superior...cool |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
I talked to them yesterday. That sump adds $1,000 dollars (yes that is a 1
and 3 zeros) to the engine. It is also horizontal induction so no go with
the carbs, but it would eliminate the ol' bottom cowl scoop on fuel injected
engines. But at $125 / lb weight savings it just ain't worth it. Give them
some time and I bet they start selling them for the same price as the other
sump.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: New lightweight sump from Superior...cool
> --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
> Guys, did you see this on Avweb? Sounds pretty cool. I'm impressed by
what Superior is doing...
>
> Do not archive
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D painting...
>
>
> New engine designs are intriguing, but sometimes it's new materials that
drive technological advances. Superior Air Parts, of Coppell, Texas,
announced this week it has successfully completed testing of its new
composite sump/induction system built with Ryton, a resin product made by
Chevron Phillips. The new Ryton sump will reduce the weight of the XP-360
Engine (TM) by eight pounds (half the weight of the old-style aluminum
sump), Superior said in a news release. Ryton is a polyphenylene sulfide
resin product and provides a lighter-weight alternative to metals that are
resistant to corrosion and all fluids associated with piston engines, the
company said. "The new Ryton sump is another example of our commitment to
bring the latest technology to the general and sport aviation market," said
Tim Archer, Superior's senior VP. Superior Air Parts is the world's largest
manufacturer of FAA-approved replacement parts for Lycoming and Continental
aircraft engines.
>
>
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Engine input-Please |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
>
>I assume that since it came out of a high wing Cardinal that it doesn't
>have an engine driven fuel pump and you'll need to alter something?
The only difference, by the book I have, between the O-360-A1F6D and the
O-360-A1A are the mags and the crank in the 6D is counterweighted. Do you
have to do something with the A1A's fuel pump?
Cy, the mags of no concern as I am going one mag and electronic. OK, the
guy wants 8K for the engine. Care to comment on the engine and price??
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Engine input-Please |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Dana,
If the price is right, this may be a good engine for you (assuming you've
checked to make sure it has the right sump, etc so it fits your airplane).
Make sure you consider the cost to convert this engine to a mechanical fuel
pump. I think you'll need a new accessory case, a new mag gear (the one
with the cam for the mechanical fuel pump), the pushrod for the fuel pump,
and the fuel pump. I imagine you can get all of this stuff for under $500
by shopping Wentworth for most of the stuff and buying a new fuel pump. For
what it is worth, I made this conversion on my 0-320...
Also consider the age/hours of the mag and carb and whether you need to get
them overhauled. You could spend $1,000 or more if all three need a major
overhaul.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine input-Please
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> I am to the point if a good engine comes along, at the right price, I'll
> buy. I have found a O-360-A1F6D that came out of a Cardinal as a result
of
> new owners purchase. The only thing I know of this engine is: 180HP, 2700
> RPM, 100/100LL, 8.50:1, Same as -A1F6 (has (1) sixth and (1) eighth order
> counterweights) with D4LN-3000 impluse coupling dual mags...........then
> goes back to "same as A1A.
>
> The engine has 900 hours TT, and comes with mags, carb, starter and all
> logs. Very acceptable compressions when removed two years ago.
>
> I'm having the logs faxed to me today. I want to make a decison on this
> shortly if it is the right engine at the right time.
>
> Here's where this great list comes in: Does anyone know anything about
this
> engine, good, bad indifferent. Just as important at this point is the
price
> so please take a couple guesses at what this engine is worth on the
market.
>
> I could really use any learned thoughts or unlearned opinions.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: of OAT probes and NACA ducts... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
How about the bottom of the wingroot fairing, a couple inches aft of the LE?
>
> One point I hoped to address in starting this thread was whether the fuselage
> side is the proper location for a cool air inlet in the first place. If this
> 6 or 7 degree Celsius rise is real, this does not seem like the best place to
> pick off airflow for cockpit ventilation! I think if I had it to do over,
> I'd go with an underwing NACA scoop of some sort as a few others have done.
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Aileron Counterbalance Weight |
07/17/2003 01:23:08 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
To the person whom inquired what the counterbalance weight was on the
aileron, I weighed it last night.
On my RV-8, it is 1700 grams, or 3.74 lbs.
Do not archive
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Vern Darley,II" <vern@mindspring.com>
Product Review-Affordable Panels Introduces their Modular Panel for the RV-6 (part
1)
by Vern Darley (vern@mindspring.com)
As my RV-6A project has progressed, I've been bugging Fabian Lefler <fablef@bellsouth.net>,
owner of Affordable Panels to include the RV-6 family in his product
line. Catching him a a moment of weakness,he agreed to if I would test the
fit and finish, since he did not have an RV-6 available to work with. So,I sent
him a ton of measurements and sketches,talked a lot via e-mail and phone, and
these photos show what he sent back to me-an incredibly beautiful custom precision
panel.
Fabian's kits are beautiful and complete. When I cut the box open, I was delighted
to see all the attention to detail. Fabian uses the latest technology to cut
these panels. Besides the beautifully crafted metal parts, Fabian had included
very detailed instructions and color photos, all the screws,rivets, and nutplates,
and even several larger clecos to help in the installation process. Each
part was carefully labeled.
As I clamped it into place, I felt a tremendous sense of satisfaction knowing that
between the Vans prebuilt spars and this panel, my old '93 era slowbuild kit
would have at least two perfect parts. Mine was delivered with a burnished
finish designed to hold the paint/powder coating for many years of service. In
fact,the natural aluminum finish is so beautiful,I've been tempted to clear-coat
it!
When I get this panel decked out with my instruments, radios, and switches, it
will look as good or better than many $30,000 custom panels you occasionally see.
As the install progresses,I hope to update this article with more photos. In the meantime, my fellow RV-6 builders now have another choice for their panels. Contact Fabian at <fablef@bellsouth.net>,or look at his great website <http://www.affordablepanels.com/> for more information.
Vern Darley
Falcon RV Squadron
Peachtree City, GA
RV-6A
N680V
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Vince,
It becomes very rigid structure when the top-half is pinned to
the bottom-half through the side hinges and the whole assembly is pinned to
the firewall with the hinges that go around it. The top-half is also joined
to the bottom-half at the front at the air inlets. I didn't use the extruded
hinges there, as supplied in the kit, (RV-6) as called for in the plans.-
Instead I riveted and epoxied two .063" plates to the top-half protruding
down into the bottom-half with three #8 plate-nuts installed per side with
matching counter-sunk
holes in the bottom-half for FH #8 screws. The holes in the bottom-half are
CSK'd for #8 Tinnerman washers. Because of the limited space to get a
screw-driver in the inlets, I use an angle drive to install the screws. That
arrangement contributes greatly to the rigidity. (I have seen broken hinge
eyes there, hence my mods.)
Besides, there is no mounting arrangement at the front to secure it to the
airframe and it is certainly not possible to mount it to any part of the
engine which has to clear the cowl by at least 1/2" all around to prevent
contact due to flight load deflections and the "Wet Dog Shakes" at start-up
and shut-down.
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
Message 16
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| Subject: | RV-6 Damaged Rudder Tailing edge. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
My rudder was damaged at a recent flyin. I suspect a golf cart, but am not
certain of that, besides the point is that however it happened, it now needs
repair.
So for you metal worker experts here is what I am considering.
Damage. The very trailing edge of the rudder was creased/displaced at two
points approx 8" apart (there is a rudder rib between the two bends) with
the lower point approx 8" above the rudder position light opening. The
upper bend was a crease which could be pushed straight with the fingers.
However the stresses on the lower damage area caused the skin to rupture
right on the tailing edge radius. . By pushing with the fingers I have the
trailing edge pretty straight.
I am considering three alternatives and would appreciate comments: After
trimming away the ragged damaged area (area is a bit smaller than your
little finger nail) where the skin ruptured, I could:
1. Bend and trim a piece of 0.016 sheet 2024T3 into a broad "V" shape and
use the rear position light opening to push it into the tail such that the
vertex of the "V" sits in the curve of the trailing edge. Then to put some
rivets through the skin to the patch metal. The "V" would run above the top
crease and below the bottom crease.
2. Same idea as #1, but instead of a "V" of sheet metal, use a small
aluminum tube of appropriate diameter that would fit the curvature of the
trailing edge and rivet it in there.
3. Replace rudder skin or portion of it.
Any suggestion appreciated
Thanks in advance
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Engine input-Please |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
No, the single drive dual mag is known to have problems. Two separate mags
with two drives or two separate electronic ignitions or one of each but not
a single drive dual mag.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine input-Please
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> Do you mean figure in one electronic ignition ??
>
> hal
> At 07:10 AM 7/17/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> >Isn't the 3000 a single drive dual mag. If so it is the first thing to
get
> >rid of.
> >
> >Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> >
> >Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> >cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
> >
> >Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Engine input-Please
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> > >
> > > I am to the point if a good engine comes along, at the right price,
I'll
> > > buy. I have found a O-360-A1F6D that came out of a Cardinal as a
result
> >of
> > > new owners purchase. The only thing I know of this engine is: 180HP,
2700
> > > RPM, 100/100LL, 8.50:1, Same as -A1F6 (has (1) sixth and (1) eighth
order
> > > counterweights) with D4LN-3000 impluse coupling dual
mags...........then
> > > goes back to "same as A1A.
> > >
> > > The engine has 900 hours TT, and comes with mags, carb, starter and
all
> > > logs. Very acceptable compressions when removed two years ago.
> > >
> > > I'm having the logs faxed to me today. I want to make a decison on
this
> > > shortly if it is the right engine at the right time.
> > >
> > > Here's where this great list comes in: Does anyone know anything
about
> >this
> > > engine, good, bad indifferent. Just as important at this point is the
> >price
> > > so please take a couple guesses at what this engine is worth on the
> >market.
> > >
> > > I could really use any learned thoughts or unlearned opinions.
> > >
> > >
> > > Dana Overall
> > > Richmond, KY
> > > RV-7 slider/fuselage
> > > Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
> > > http://rvflying.tripod.com
> > > do not archive
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re:RV-6 Rudder Damaged Trailing edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I had a crack in the trailing edge of our first RV-4. I put an aluminum flat
1/8 " thick strap into the trailing edge with Pro-Seal.
Your idea of an aluminum tube will probably work the same way. Keep the
weight to a minimum to avoid un-balance.
My 2c worth.
Bob Olds RV-4
do not archive
Message 19
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|
"vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Speaking of Paint Schemes... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
I just got a photo of Ken Balch's soon-to-be major award winning RV-8 with her
new paint job! You gotta see this!
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re:RV-6 Rudder Damaged Trailing edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Thanks, Bob
I like the idea of Pro-seal. I have a can of the old stuff someplace.
I had been considering epoxy, but I think Pro-seal would work better.
Ed Anderson
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re:RV-6 Rudder Damaged Trailing edge
> --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
> I had a crack in the trailing edge of our first RV-4. I put an aluminum
flat
> 1/8 " thick strap into the trailing edge with Pro-Seal.
> Your idea of an aluminum tube will probably work the same way. Keep the
> weight to a minimum to avoid un-balance.
> My 2c worth.
>
> Bob Olds RV-4
> do not archive
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
Greetings all:
My newly completed RV-4 now has about 45 hours on it. It is unpainted but
hopefully will have a striking paint job completed this fall. BUT... I hope
to come up with a good method to prevent the rear canopy skirt from
scratching the paint on the top rear of the fuselage. Maybe I was too
successful in getting a tight seal around the rear canopy skirt. Currently
I have it lined with Van's UHMW plastic tape and also some small foam tape,
but it still rubs and scratches the fuselage. I have seem folks put tape on
the fuselage itself to prevent scratches but it doesn't look real great when
the canopy open. It would be nice if there existed some thin, flexible,
durable, clear U-channel to put on the skirt itself.
Anyone got any great ideas?
Thanks
Doug Weiler
N722DW, flies like a dream
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Try UHMW tape on both parts.
At 04:28 PM 7/17/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
>Greetings all:
>
>My newly completed RV-4 now has about 45 hours on it. It is unpainted but
>hopefully will have a striking paint job completed this fall. BUT... I hope
>to come up with a good method to prevent the rear canopy skirt from
>scratching the paint on the top rear of the fuselage. Maybe I was too
>successful in getting a tight seal around the rear canopy skirt. Currently
>I have it lined with Van's UHMW plastic tape and also some small foam tape,
>but it still rubs and scratches the fuselage. I have seem folks put tape on
>the fuselage itself to prevent scratches but it doesn't look real great when
>the canopy open. It would be nice if there existed some thin, flexible,
>durable, clear U-channel to put on the skirt itself.
>
>Anyone got any great ideas?
>
>Thanks
>
>Doug Weiler
>N722DW, flies like a dream
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Engine input-Please |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hi Dana:
This engine can be equipped with a fuel pump without changing the accessory
case. Aero Sport builds a hybrid mag that will replace the duel mags without
any changes to the drive gears, you would then run one electronic. In other
words it is a very straightforward installation in an RV. Also being
counterweighted I believe this eliminates and RPM restrictions.
However the things that I would be most concerned about are:
Why was it removed with only 900 hours? Was it removed for an upgrade or
what?
Would need to know the complete history, has it ever been involved in any
kind of incident, prop strike etc.
How old is it and was it run on a regular basis? What where the conditions
that it has been stored under in the past two years.
If the engine is in good condition the price is on the cheap side and
creates some suspicion on my part.
If I were buying it I would ask that the crankshaft be guaranteed
serviceable and better still ask if he would agree to having it run in a
test stand at your expense (cost in the area of $200.00)before you pay for
it. In any event have the flange dialed by a qualified person before you
make a decision.
If the crank is damaged, such as the run-out on the flang being beyond
limits the engine is basically worthless. If it needs an overhaul your cost
will be getting close to the cost of a new one
On the other hand if it turns out to be a good engine with a 1000 hours of
service left in it, you will be one of the lucky ones in this age of scarce
good used engines.
Good Luck
Eustace Bowhay -Blind Bay, B.C. RV6 20383
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine input-Please
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> I am to the point if a good engine comes along, at the right price, I'll
> buy. I have found a O-360-A1F6D that came out of a Cardinal as a result
of
> new owners purchase. The only thing I know of this engine is: 180HP, 2700
> RPM, 100/100LL, 8.50:1, Same as -A1F6 (has (1) sixth and (1) eighth order
> counterweights) with D4LN-3000 impluse coupling dual mags...........then
> goes back to "same as A1A.
>
> The engine has 900 hours TT, and comes with mags, carb, starter and all
> logs. Very acceptable compressions when removed two years ago.
>
> I'm having the logs faxed to me today. I want to make a decison on this
> shortly if it is the right engine at the right time.
>
> Here's where this great list comes in: Does anyone know anything about
this
> engine, good, bad indifferent. Just as important at this point is the
price
> so please take a couple guesses at what this engine is worth on the
market.
>
> I could really use any learned thoughts or unlearned opinions.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Patterson <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
Hey Fellas,
I just received my Dynon EFIS via UPS on Wednesday (#287). What a fantastic piece
of engineering!!. I ordered the aux battery feature, and as I unpacked the
unit I couldn't find the Battery. As I was about to call and ask, I pushed the
left button and the thing lit up!
Turns out they even engineered the Lithium Battery into the unit!
Did you know it also has space on the screen, via toggle, to download custom checklists
for you and your aircraft?
Made a call to Paul, on of Dynon's designers / engineers to praise their work and
asked about the Angle of Attack and the OAT modes. Both of these interface
with the present unit, but the Pitot and the OAT sensors are not quite ready for
distribution. They should be available to us in the next few months.
So, if your considering this option instead of traditional (or, like me, in tandem
with Airspeed and Altimeter), you will be totally happy with this unit. I'm
anxious to see how they do on their next projects (GPS, Engine Monitor, Autopilot).
I have no affiliation with the company, just a satisfied customer...
Ron Patterson
RV-4
N8ZD (reserved)
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Engine input-Please |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
It needs to be an awfully good deal to beat the price of new
engines right now. You pay $8 to $10k for a used and have one hiccup and
you could have gone new. Not arguing just an opinion but based on a
couple of "good deals" I have seen.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: RV-List: Engine input-Please
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I am to the point if a good engine comes along, at the right price, I'll
buy. I have found a O-360-A1F6D that came out of a Cardinal as a result
of
new owners purchase. The only thing I know of this engine is: 180HP,
2700
RPM, 100/100LL, 8.50:1, Same as -A1F6 (has (1) sixth and (1) eighth
order
counterweights) with D4LN-3000 impluse coupling dual mags...........then
goes back to "same as A1A.
The engine has 900 hours TT, and comes with mags, carb, starter and all
logs. Very acceptable compressions when removed two years ago.
I'm having the logs faxed to me today. I want to make a decison on this
shortly if it is the right engine at the right time.
Here's where this great list comes in: Does anyone know anything about
this
engine, good, bad indifferent. Just as important at this point is the
price
so please take a couple guesses at what this engine is worth on the
market.
I could really use any learned thoughts or unlearned opinions.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 26
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
I spoke with Dynon at Arlington concerning the probe since I'm working on my wings.
I was concered about difficulty in mounting the probe after the wing was
completed. They told me that the probe is/will be designed to use the pitot mount
from Gretz aero. Warren Gretz confirmed this and said the mount for the PH502-12CR
pitot is the one that Dynon is designing around.
Ken
>--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Patterson <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
>
>Hey Fellas,
>
>I just received my Dynon EFIS via UPS on Wednesday (#287). What a fantastic piece
of engineering!!. I ordered the aux battery feature, and as I unpacked the
unit I couldn't find the Battery. As I was about to call and ask, I pushed the
left button and the thing lit up!
>Turns out they even engineered the Lithium Battery into the unit!
>
>Did you know it also has space on the screen, via toggle, to download custom checklists
for you and your aircraft?
>
>Made a call to Paul, on of Dynon's designers / engineers to praise their work
and asked about the Angle of Attack and the OAT modes. Both of these interface
with the present unit, but the Pitot and the OAT sensors are not quite ready
for distribution. They should be available to us in the next few months.
>
>So, if your considering this option instead of traditional (or, like me, in tandem
with Airspeed and Altimeter), you will be totally happy with this unit. I'm
anxious to see how they do on their next projects (GPS, Engine Monitor, Autopilot).
>
>I have no affiliation with the company, just a satisfied customer...
>Ron Patterson
>RV-4
>N8ZD (reserved)
>
>
The Internet Truckstop
The first and largest
freight matching
service on the
Intenet
______________ ______________ ______________ ______________
Sent via the KillerWebMail system at truckstop.com
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: of OAT probes and NACA ducts... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: of OAT probes and NACA ducts...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> How about the bottom of the wingroot fairing, a couple inches aft of the
LE?
>
> >
> > One point I hoped to address in starting this thread was whether the
fuselage
> > side is the proper location for a cool air inlet in the first place. If
this
> > 6 or 7 degree Celsius rise is real, this does not seem like the best
place to
> > pick off airflow for cockpit ventilation! I think if I had it to do
over,
> > I'd go with an underwing NACA scoop of some sort as a few others have
done.
I would recommend staying several feet away from the fuselage as has been
suggested by others. I tried the NACA vent location and found it to be
useless. I then mounted the probe in the rib that divides the bellcrank
inspection panel and drilled a hole in the cover to accommodate it. One
could just as easily mount it proximate to the opening. The location works
very well with the exception that when parked on a sun heated ramp it will
tend to read higher than the local ASOS. Otherwise it can indicate even
small temp shifts in the atmosphere. I believe that many performance
calculations use "total temperature" which takes into account the heating
due to motion. If that is so, then no protective measures are needed.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 28
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
I'd like to hear more of these kinds of reports, especially when they start
flying. Is there anyone who has a Dynon flying and has some instrument
(hood) time with it? My RV-10 will be IFR, and if this is my primary
attitude indicator (and then some) I'd like to see how it is in the clouds.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Patterson" <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon D-10
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Patterson <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
>
> Hey Fellas,
>
> I just received my Dynon EFIS via UPS on Wednesday (#287). What a
fantastic piece of engineering!!. I ordered the aux battery feature, and as
I unpacked the unit I couldn't find the Battery. As I was about to call and
ask, I pushed the left button and the thing lit up!
> Turns out they even engineered the Lithium Battery into the unit!
>
> Did you know it also has space on the screen, via toggle, to download
custom checklists for you and your aircraft?
>
> Made a call to Paul, on of Dynon's designers / engineers to praise their
work and asked about the Angle of Attack and the OAT modes. Both of these
interface with the present unit, but the Pitot and the OAT sensors are not
quite ready for distribution. They should be available to us in the next few
months.
>
> So, if your considering this option instead of traditional (or, like me,
in tandem with Airspeed and Altimeter), you will be totally happy with this
unit. I'm anxious to see how they do on their next projects (GPS, Engine
Monitor, Autopilot).
>
> I have no affiliation with the company, just a satisfied customer...
> Ron Patterson
> RV-4
> N8ZD (reserved)
>
>
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Patterson <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
Anybody know where I can get a panel for my RV-4 that is custom made? I have most
of the avionics and need a fabricated unit to bolt up my radios to and plug
in the wiring. (also want a pre-wired package prepared for me by an expert).
Ron Patterson
scc_ron@yahoo.com
510-421-2316
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
>
> I'd like to hear more of these kinds of reports, especially when they start
> flying. Is there anyone who has a Dynon flying and has some instrument
> (hood) time with it? My RV-10 will be IFR, and if this is my primary
> attitude indicator (and then some) I'd like to see how it is in the clouds.
Paul, you make a very good point. It is good that purchasers of the
Dynon are enthusiastic about their units before they even get them
unpacked, but a report on the way the unit "works" on the ground
is...........useless.
I have experience with a beta test version of an EFIS, and even though
is was very impressive in the hands, it was useless in the air when
subjected to actual flight conditions. I have heard good reports of the
Dynon in the air, matter of fact one of our RV groups pilots has one.
But I also look forward to hearing reports from pilots who have flown
actual approaches with the Dynon as the only flight instrument. That
will really tell us how well the Dynon guys have their act together.
Sam Buchanan
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Engine input-Please |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I'm going to reply to Eustace's questions as an example of just why I am
building an experimental aircraft. And they wonder why I'm getting rid of a
beautiful Bonanza. Well, follow this thread and you will see why. It's
absurd.
Just for grins, I called the shop I use for avionics on my Bonanza to see
just what it would cost to have my newly acquired Garmin 430 installed to
replace "other" Garmin panel mounted approach certified GPS/COM. Read my
lips, plug and play..............$2300. Man, I can't wait to fly this RV
summer of 2004!! As you can tell, the more I think about it, the more
freckin ticked (nicest way I could say it) I get.
I may or may not buy the engine, but it's just why it was removed that is
absurd.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine input-Please
>Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 15:18:46 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
>
>Hi Dana:
>
>This engine can be equipped with a fuel pump without changing the accessory
>case. Aero Sport builds a hybrid mag that will replace the duel mags
>without
>any changes to the drive gears, you would then run one electronic. In other
>words it is a very straightforward installation in an RV. Also being
>counterweighted I believe this eliminates and RPM restrictions.
The engine already is converted for a mechanical fuel pump. All I have to
do is buy another fuel pump, as it was put on the new engine. More to
follow
>
>However the things that I would be most concerned about are:
>
>Why was it removed with only 900 hours? Was it removed for an upgrade or
>what?
The original engine siezed and was replaced by this A1F6D. During an annual
18 years after it's install (after 18 years of total problem free operation)
the A&P discovered this engine was not the original engine in the airplane.
He made the owner install a new A1A as called for. The A1F6D
is an A1A with differnet mags but..........get this........a counterweighted
crank. So a counterweighted crank is a bad thing?? I've talked with the
A&P who made the guy replace it. The A&P has the engine.
>
>Would need to know the complete history, has it ever been involved in any
>kind of incident, prop strike etc.
Nothing, absolutely nothing.
>
>How old is it and was it run on a regular basis? What where the conditions
>that it has been stored under in the past two years.
About 50 hours a year. Pickled since it's removal 2 years ago.
>
>If the engine is in good condition the price is on the cheap side and
>creates some suspicion on my part.
Mine too.
>
>If I were buying it I would ask that the crankshaft be guaranteed
>serviceable and better still ask if he would agree to having it run in a
>test stand at your expense (cost in the area of $200.00)before you pay for
>it. In any event have the flange dialed by a qualified person before you
>make a decision.
Will guarantee crank and cam.
>
>If the crank is damaged, such as the run-out on the flang being beyond
>limits the engine is basically worthless. If it needs an overhaul your cost
>will be getting close to the cost of a new one
See above
>
>On the other hand if it turns out to be a good engine with a 1000 hours of
>service left in it, you will be one of the lucky ones in this age of scarce
>good used engines.
>
>Good Luck
>
>Eustace Bowhay -Blind Bay, B.C. RV6 20383
>
>
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Mine arrived today also!!! I agree with all you say!!!! what a machine!!!!
I can't wait to get it installed!!!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
BTW The pink panther has a new home in Sioux Falls SD and I bought an
IFR -4 from Terry Stern in North Central MN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Patterson" <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon D-10
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Patterson <scc_ron@yahoo.com>
>
> Hey Fellas,
>
> I just received my Dynon EFIS via UPS on Wednesday (#287). What a
fantastic piece of engineering!!. I ordered the aux battery feature, and as
I unpacked the unit I couldn't find the Battery. As I was about to call and
ask, I pushed the left button and the thing lit up!
> Turns out they even engineered the Lithium Battery into the unit!
>
> Did you know it also has space on the screen, via toggle, to download
custom checklists for you and your aircraft?
>
> Made a call to Paul, on of Dynon's designers / engineers to praise their
work and asked about the Angle of Attack and the OAT modes. Both of these
interface with the present unit, but the Pitot and the OAT sensors are not
quite ready for distribution. They should be available to us in the next few
months.
>
> So, if your considering this option instead of traditional (or, like me,
in tandem with Airspeed and Altimeter), you will be totally happy with this
unit. I'm anxious to see how they do on their next projects (GPS, Engine
Monitor, Autopilot).
>
> I have no affiliation with the company, just a satisfied customer...
> Ron Patterson
> RV-4
> N8ZD (reserved)
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Paint Scheme Wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
I put some RV p-40 pics at
http://hometown.aol.com/rv8ter/page2.html
>From: "Aaron Zeff" <aaronzeff@hotmail.com>
>To: luckymacy@hotmail.com
>Subject: Re: [rv8list] Paint Scheme Wanted
>Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 20:41:12 +0000
>
>Lucky,
>
>How can I get a view of the P-40 scheme RV-8?
>
>Thanks,
>Naked RV-8
>
>
>>From: "lucky macy" <>
>>Reply-To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com
>>To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: Re: [rv8list] Paint Scheme Wanted
>>Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 12:32:50 -0400
>>
>>http://hometown.aol.com/rv8ter/myhomepage/index.html
>>
>>here's the picture. They were all 3 painted a little differently on
>>purpose
>>as they were still experimenting with details like the different sizes of
>>Stars and Bars. I like the closest one's Stars and Bars best. The others
>>are too small, I think. All of these planes have been updated and look a
>>little better now and I think I have varous updated pictures though maybe
>>not in formation like this.
>>
>>There's also a flying tigers P-40 with shark teeth scheme in the mix too.
>>
>>I'll post a few more if I find some good ones.
>>
>>
>> >From: "Danny King" <danny.king@charter.net>
>> >Reply-To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com
>> >To: <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>
>> >Subject: Re: [rv8list] Paint Scheme Wanted
>> >Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 08:25:30 -0500
>> >
>> >Lucky,
>> >I'd like to see that picture too!
>> >Danny
>> >danny.king@charter.net
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: lucky macy
>> > To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com ; azeff@priorityparking.com
>> > Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 5:52 AM
>> > Subject: Re: [rv8list] Paint Scheme Wanted
>> >
>> >
>> > Here's three 8's in a WWII D-day invasion scheme flying formation.
>> >There is
>> > a "squadron" of them around the PA/MD area. Maybe up to 8 or 9
>>painted
>> >this
>> > way now?
>> >
>> > Anyway, they look very good. RV8 is a poor man's P-51. No Axis paint
>> > schemes yet but I'd be tempted with all the *allied targets* flying
>> >around
>> > here :-)
>> >
>> >
>> > >From: "azeff2000" <azeff@priorityparking.com>
>> > >Reply-To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com
>> > >To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com
>> > >Subject: [rv8list] Paint Scheme Wanted
>> > >Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 06:21:15 -0000
>> > >
>> > >Help! RV-8 Needs Paint.
>> > >
>> > >After building and flying my unpainted RV-8 for over 75 hours, I
>> > >still haven't determened the appropriate scheme. I've untilized
>> > >schemedesigners, friends, family, ect. From considering the P-40 to
>> > >the F-4 Phantom I am still undecided. Any thoughts or ideas would
>>be
>> > >appreciated. Does any other builder have a scheme that they wish
>> > >they did or should have done? Make my day!!
>> > >
>> > >Regards,
>> > >A Naked RV-8
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> > _________________________________________________________________
>> >
>> >
>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ADVERTISEMENT
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
>> >
>> > IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
>> >
>> > rv8list-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> >
>> >
>>
>>_________________________________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>Control Hunger EZ with fast acting oral EZ Appetite Suppressant Spray
>>from VitaminBoost.com. 1 Month Supply - 2oz., 80 sprays: $19.97.
>>http://www.challengerone.com/t/l.asp?cid=2866&lp=ezappetite3.html
>>http://us.click.yahoo.com/aSJFwB/XWXGAA/ySSFAA/1yWplB/TM
>>
>>Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
>>
>>IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
>>
>>rv8list-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Engine input-Please |
--> RV-List message posted by: janenjoe@juno.com
Some things to consider in regards to any engine......
1. Was it properly pickeled?
2. Can you engine stand run it before purchase?
3. Is there any kind of guarantee?
4. The most important......once you agree on a price.....would you pay
for a complete teardown and inspection and complete the purchase if it
passed the inspection......if not....no sale......
Joe
On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 07:13:17 -0400 "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> I am to the point if a good engine comes along, at the right price,
> I'll
> buy. I have found a O-360-A1F6D that came out of a Cardinal as a
> result of
> new owners purchase. The only thing I know of this engine is:
> 180HP, 2700
> RPM, 100/100LL, 8.50:1, Same as -A1F6 (has (1) sixth and (1) eighth
> order
> counterweights) with D4LN-3000 impluse coupling dual
> mags...........then
> goes back to "same as A1A.
>
> The engine has 900 hours TT, and comes with mags, carb, starter and
> all
> logs. Very acceptable compressions when removed two years ago.
>
> I'm having the logs faxed to me today. I want to make a decison on
> this
> shortly if it is the right engine at the right time.
>
> Here's where this great list comes in: Does anyone know anything
> about this
> engine, good, bad indifferent. Just as important at this point is
> the price
> so please take a couple guesses at what this engine is worth on the
> market.
>
> I could really use any learned thoughts or unlearned opinions.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 35
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| Subject: | SL-40 Intercom/monitor function |
--> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Time: 10:40:50 PM PST US
From: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SL-40 vs xcom760
--> RV-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
Lucky, I just received my SL40 yesterday. According to the SL40 owners
manual, you may activate just the pilot's mic, just the copilot's mic,
or both from the front panel. You can separately adjust the squelch for
either mic, also from the front panel, and that should take care of
unwanted noise.
You need to install a separate switch to select between the intercom
function and the monitoring of a secondary frequency.
I bought the SL40 because John Stark said that is a higher quality unit
than the xcom 760.
Leland Collins
RV9A wiring
-----------------------------------------------
Hello Leland
I have a SL-40 installed in my RV-4 and I can used the intercom
and the monitoring function without having a separate switch installed.I
believe an avionics shop can take care of that.It works really good.
I have no complaint with the intercom(I used a David Clark
H-10-80)and it's flawless.
Bruno
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Engine input-Please |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Castellano" <tcastell@bestweb.net>
Please check the archives.
I installed a Lycoming O360 A1F6D in my Bede 4 a few years ago after doing a
major overhaul.
The engine I replaced was a Lyc O360 A1A.
The A1F6D has an engine driven fuel pump.
I installed a Slick mag with impulse coupler in place of the dual Bendix
mag. The drive gear from the Bendix
fit the Slick perfectly. The only thing I had to modify was the washer whose
OD was a little too large.
I used a Jeff Rose (Electroair) electronic ignition for the second set of
plugs.
I then sold the engine and constant speed prop to a friend, and we installed
it in his RV8. He now has over 200
trouble free hours on it.
The O360 A1A is powering my RV6
Also having flown both engines for many hours, I found the A1F6D to be
smoother probably because of the counter weighted crankshaft. Also, you
won't have the RPM restrictions because of these counterweights.
Tony Castellano
tcastell@bestweb.net
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6
N401TC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine input-Please
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
> >
> >I assume that since it came out of a high wing Cardinal that it doesn't
> >have an engine driven fuel pump and you'll need to alter something?
>
> The only difference, by the book I have, between the O-360-A1F6D and the
> O-360-A1A are the mags and the crank in the 6D is counterweighted. Do you
> have to do something with the A1A's fuel pump?
>
> Cy, the mags of no concern as I am going one mag and electronic. OK, the
> guy wants 8K for the engine. Care to comment on the engine and price??
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Metal lock nuts for 5/16 X 18 carb studs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Hi Listers
Does anyone know of a source for either all metal lock nuts or drilled nuts with
5/16 X 18 threads for the carb studs on the bottom of the engine. I would prefer
either one to regular nuts with locktite or jam nuts.
thanks,
Rick Fogerson
RV3 finish
Boise, ID
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Metal lock nuts for 5/16 X 18 carb studs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Genuine Aircraft Hardware Co.
http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com
They sell an AN363 or MS21045-518 all metal lock nut...or at least it's in
their products section. These guys seem to carry just about every aircraft
fastener under the sun. Haven't ordered from them yet, but I'm sure I will
someday when I need something funky or uncommon.
(888) 247-2738
Good luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Subject: RV-List: Metal lock nuts for 5/16 X 18 carb studs
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
>
> Hi Listers
> Does anyone know of a source for either all metal lock nuts or drilled
nuts with 5/16 X 18 threads for the carb studs on the bottom of the engine.
I would prefer either one to regular nuts with locktite or jam nuts.
>
> thanks,
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 finish
> Boise, ID
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Metal lock nuts for 5/16 X 18 carb studs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Sounds like a job for the hefty MSC catalog.....
Or you can use the lighter weight on-line version...
http://www.mscdirect.com/PDF.process?pdf=1885
gil in Tucson
At 10:19 PM 7/17/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
>
>Hi Listers
>Does anyone know of a source for either all metal lock nuts or drilled
>nuts with 5/16 X 18 threads for the carb studs on the bottom of the
>engine. I would prefer either one to regular nuts with locktite or jam nuts.
>
>thanks,
>Rick Fogerson
>RV3 finish
>Boise, ID
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
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