Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:47 AM - Re: Chutes for RVs (Bob U.)
2. 04:43 AM - Slow Starter (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
3. 06:06 AM - Re: Ground block (Ed Perry)
4. 06:13 AM - Re: Slow Starter (Bob U.)
5. 06:19 AM - seat fabric amount (Wayne Pedersen)
6. 06:53 AM - Re: Ground block (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
7. 07:00 AM - Re: Slow Starter (linn walters)
8. 07:24 AM - Re: Slow Starter (Kyle Boatright)
9. 08:06 AM - Re: Trouble Starting (Hot Start Techniques) (C. Rabaut)
10. 08:23 AM - Re: departing a broken aircraft (C. Rabaut)
11. 08:39 AM - Re: Chutes for RVstests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_06_12 (C. Rabaut)
12. 08:41 AM - Re: Trouble Starting (Hot Start Techniques) (Gert)
13. 08:54 AM - Instrument panel cutting (Wayne R. Couture)
14. 09:06 AM - Re: Instrument panel cutting (PSILeD@aol.com)
15. 09:17 AM - Re: Instrument panel cutting (Trampas)
16. 09:24 AM - 4" flange source for oil cooler hose? (czechsix@juno.com)
17. 09:49 AM - Re: 4" flange source for oil cooler hose? (kempthornes)
18. 10:23 AM - Re: RV-List slow starter (Greg Milner)
19. 11:35 AM - CS prop: to bother or not (lucky macy)
20. 12:21 PM - tip-up canopy C-624 platsic strip or nylok nuts (thomas a. sargent)
21. 12:31 PM - Re: Chutes for RVstests (Jerry Springer)
22. 12:49 PM - Re: tip-up canopy C-624 platsic strip or nylok nuts (Dan Checkoway)
23. 12:55 PM - Fairings, which ones (Shemp)
24. 02:02 PM - First flight pictures (Steve & Denise)
25. 02:28 PM - Re: Slow Starter (Doug Gray)
26. 02:42 PM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: to bother or not (lucky macy)
27. 03:51 PM - Re: Re: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: to bother or not (Richard Lundin)
28. 04:47 PM - Electric seat heat (Gert)
29. 05:10 PM - Priming- Trouble Starting (Hot Start Techniques) (Ed Perry)
30. 05:49 PM - Re: Electric seat heat (Phat Phil)
31. 06:52 PM - Re: Priming- Trouble Starting (Hot Start Techniques) (thomas a. sargent)
32. 07:08 PM - Instrument Panel cutting (Wayne R. Couture)
33. 07:14 PM - Re: Fairings, which ones (Albert Gardner)
34. 07:16 PM - RV-list seat belts (smoothweasel@juno.com)
35. 08:09 PM - Recommended Tools..... (Marshall M. Dues)
36. 08:26 PM - Re: Electric seat heat (Larry Bowen)
37. 09:04 PM - F-794A lower horizontal stabilizer/fuselage fairing (RAMTHAXTON@aol.com)
38. 09:50 PM - Van's 2 1/4" Engine Instruments & GNS430 Cooling (Garey Wittich)
39. 10:58 PM - Wire and cable source? (jgburns)
40. 11:13 PM - Re: Wire and cable source? (Vanremog@aol.com)
41. 11:39 PM - Re: Slow Starter (Steve Sampson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Chutes for RVs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
>
>How quickly you forget our own posts (see below). If I remember right,
>you have the dubious honor of being the first person to reply to Jeff and
>start this whole tirade. Only took you 43 mins 11 secs to jump on that
>bandwagon. Was your remark to Jeff about "wasting his time" a clever
>ploy to get him to be all that more determined to succeed in the
>development of the product. I think not.
>
I have thoroughly enjoyed *ALL* the 'chute' comments. However, it is my
feeling that chastising ANYONE for their comments on any topic, is a
sure fire way to stifle honest discourse and limit the value of any
discussion. If driving anyone away can be accomplished, this looks like
as good a way to do it as any.
Sadly,
Bob U.
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy listers-
My low compression O-320 has an original Delco-Remy boat anchor starter I
wanted to retain for CG (and $!) reasons, and I am using one of the 17 Ah
Panasonic batteries. Spun nicely with the plugs out, but yesterday I put in the
plugs and it will barely turn over- the blades almost stopping on each compression
stroke. Battery voltage shows 12.63. Anyone else used this combination
successfully or am I going to have to send B&C some more $$$?!
Thanks from The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Ground block |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Perry" <eperry@san.rr.com>
As a back up I use West Marine or other boat supply companies, they have had
all my electrical stuff.
Ed Perry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
<rv7-list@matronics.com>; <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ground block
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
> I was preparing to order a ground block from B&C and noticed they are out
of stock till "late January." Anyone have another source for these?
>
> Darwin N. Barrie
> Chandler AZ
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Slow Starter |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
>My low compression O-320 has an original Delco-Remy boat anchor starter I
>wanted to retain for CG (and $!) reasons, and I am using one of the 17 Ah
>Panasonic batteries. Spun nicely with the plugs out, but yesterday I put in the
>plugs and it will barely turn over- the blades almost stopping on each compression
>stroke. Battery voltage shows 12.63. Anyone else used this combination
>successfully or am I going to have to send B&C some more $$$?!
>
>Thanks from The PossumWorks in TN
>Mark
>
FWIW...
I dumped my Prestolite starter for an Air-Tec. Currently $225 for the
bracket and brand new Lexus automobile geared starter. I mde up for the
lighter weight using the 12 lb steel ring that Mark Landoll sold. That
was $80 three years ago. Smoooth running and easy starting with any lawn
and garden batttery... even the el-cheepo $20 version sold by Wal-mart.
Air-Tec 800.377.4746
*Mark Landoll Starters & Alternators*
<http://www.kitplanes.com/resources/supInfo.asp?t=browseCat&si=120080>, OK
(405/392-3847) ()
Overhaul fuel systems, fuel pumps, turbochargers, wastegates and control
valves for reciprocating engine aircraft.
Bob U.
Message 5
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| Subject: | seat fabric amount |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
I have ordered the Vans foam seat cores and wondering how much fabric I
need. I guess I could take my ruler and measure every inch of the drawings
but if someone has prior experience I would appreciate it.
Wayne
RV7a
S.Alberta
---
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
I buy mine from EDMO
noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Darwin N. Barrie
rv7-list@matronics.com; RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV-List: Ground block
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
I was preparing to order a ground block from B&C and noticed they are out of
stock till "late January." Anyone have another source for these?
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Slow Starter |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>Howdy listers-
>
>My low compression O-320 has an original Delco-Remy boat anchor starter I
>wanted to retain for CG (and $!) reasons, and I am using one of the 17 Ah
>Panasonic batteries. Spun nicely with the plugs out, but yesterday I put in the
>plugs and it will barely turn over- the blades almost stopping on each compression
>stroke. Battery voltage shows 12.63. Anyone else used this combination
>successfully or am I going to have to send B&C some more $$$?!
>
>Thanks from The PossumWorks in TN
>Mark
>
>
>
Something is wrong. You might have too small power cables or too big a
run, poor grounding, poor lug crimping ..... a whole lot of things could
be the problem, and it doesn't take much ..... especially if your
battery is behind the seat. Talk to Les Staples at sky-tek
(lstaples@itexas.net) ask for his troubleshooting tips. I'm sure that
B&C will have somebody that can help, but I know Les and I know he'll
help. All you need is a meter and long leads and his tips, and done his
way ..... you'll find the problem .... or problems.
Linn
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Slow Starter |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Bob,
Do you have the weights of the two starters? I'm lookin' at some weight
reducing upgrades to offset some weight adding upgrades I'm considering...
Thanks in advance,
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Slow Starter
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
>
>
> >My low compression O-320 has an original Delco-Remy boat anchor starter I
> >wanted to retain for CG (and $!) reasons, and I am using one of the 17 Ah
> >Panasonic batteries. Spun nicely with the plugs out, but yesterday I put
in the
> >plugs and it will barely turn over- the blades almost stopping on each
compression
> >stroke. Battery voltage shows 12.63. Anyone else used this combination
> >successfully or am I going to have to send B&C some more $$$?!
> >
> >Thanks from The PossumWorks in TN
> >Mark
> >
> FWIW...
> I dumped my Prestolite starter for an Air-Tec. Currently $225 for the
> bracket and brand new Lexus automobile geared starter. I mde up for the
> lighter weight using the 12 lb steel ring that Mark Landoll sold. That
> was $80 three years ago. Smoooth running and easy starting with any lawn
> and garden batttery... even the el-cheepo $20 version sold by Wal-mart.
>
> Air-Tec 800.377.4746
>
> *Mark Landoll Starters & Alternators*
> <http://www.kitplanes.com/resources/supInfo.asp?t=browseCat&si=120080>, OK
> (405/392-3847) ()
> Overhaul fuel systems, fuel pumps, turbochargers, wastegates and control
> valves for reciprocating engine aircraft.
>
>
> Bob U.
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Trouble Starting (Hot Start Techniques) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Ed,
Thanks for the advice, it's similar to what I've found "helps". But I
must admit I've managed to flood her a few times. I'll try your formula as
soon as it gets hot enough here (we get 2 seasons here, Hot & Cold). Take
care & Take Air,
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Perry <eperry@san.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Trouble Starting (Hot Start Techniques)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Perry" <eperry@san.rr.com>
>
> I have a Lycoming IO-360-B1E and was concerned about hot starts and vapor
> lock. Fortunately I have a great Tech Councilor named Fred Laforge and he
> has the same engine. Through his years of use I get to benefit, so I will
> pass his wisdom on to the list.......
> 1) Cold Starts -
> a. PRIME FOR 4-6 SECONDS
> b. MIXTURE- lean
> c. BOOST PUMP-off
> d. THROTTLE- 1/2" to 1" open
> e. STARTER- Engage and when it catches move the mixture to rich
> f. BOOST PUMP- If required to maintain fuel pressure
> g. MIXTURE- Lean for smooth Operations
> 2) "HOT STARTS"
> a. DO NOT PRIME- Then b. - g.
> f. BOOST PUMP- On a heat soaked day, once the engine fires be
> ready to engage the boost pump to stabilize the fuel pressure.
>
> I have used these techniques for the last 120 hours and have never been
> cranking for more than 4-5 blades. This includes flight testing in Daggett
> Ca. during July at 115 degrees OAT on the ground. The biggest thing I have
> seen with Hot starts is overpriming. Fight the urge!!!!!
>
> Ed Perry
> RV-8
> IO-360-B1E /CS
>
>
> Original Message -----
> From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Trouble Starting
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >
> > Yeah, it's the "Hot Starts" that give me some difficulty with these
> Lycoming
> > "IO" engines.
> >
> >
> > do not archive
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <RobHickman@aol.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Trouble Starting
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
> > >
> > > Gert,
> > >
> > > With an Injected engine you have a priming system, the injectors dump
> fuel
> > > right into the inlet valve. My IO-360 B1B will start right up when it
is
> > cold.
> > >
> > > Rob Hickman
> > > RV-4 N401RH
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: departing a broken aircraft |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Bill,
Glad to hear from you again. Now get back to work on your RV-4, it
seems like us 4's are getting out numbered by the 8's, 7's, 6's, 9's, 10's,
everybody but the 3's. :-} Hey I heard that the real 8 is just two
4's riveted together (ala' the P-51 variant)... if that's true, than the
real 6 must be an RV-3 Bi-Plane.
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Shook <billshook@qwest.net>
Subject: RV-List: departing a broken aircraft
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Shook" <billshook@qwest.net>
>
> Having jumped out of more planes than I've flown and holding more
skydiving
> certifications than I do pilot cert's I can tell you there is no way I
would
> static line any type of parachute for an emergency deployment. You won't
> likely be getting out because the plane ran out of gas and is flying
> straight and level..you will be getting out of an aircraft that has lost
> it's wing at the root or something catastrophic. The plane will likely be
> spinning, rolling, etc and you along with it when you throw yourself
clear.
> You don't want a static line getting wrapped around you or the spinning
> plane and possibly pulling you in a direction you don't want to go. Jump
as
> clear as you can, give it a second or two (likely will seem like a year)
> then pull the handle. If you're really worried about it...go get some
> skydiving training. It's the most fun 'class' you will likely ever take.
>
> Bill Shook
> -4 wings 90% (finally unpacking from the move)
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Chutes for RVstests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_06_12 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
No but it sure fired you up. :-}
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
What has your post contributed?
> So far nothing that I can see.
>
> Jerry
> do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Trouble Starting (Hot Start Techniques) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Hi Guys
So how exactly does one 'prime'??
I am IO starting illiterate..........
Gert
C. Rabaut wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
> Ed,
>
> Thanks for the advice, it's similar to what I've found "helps". But I
> must admit I've managed to flood her a few times. I'll try your formula as
> soon as it gets hot enough here (we get 2 seasons here, Hot & Cold). Take
> care & Take Air,
>
> Chuck
>
> do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ed Perry <eperry@san.rr.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Trouble Starting (Hot Start Techniques)
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Perry" <eperry@san.rr.com>
>>
>>I have a Lycoming IO-360-B1E and was concerned about hot starts and vapor
>>lock. Fortunately I have a great Tech Councilor named Fred Laforge and he
>>has the same engine. Through his years of use I get to benefit, so I will
>>pass his wisdom on to the list.......
>>1) Cold Starts -
>> a. PRIME FOR 4-6 SECONDS
>> b. MIXTURE- lean
>> c. BOOST PUMP-off
>> d. THROTTLE- 1/2" to 1" open
>> e. STARTER- Engage and when it catches move the mixture to rich
>> f. BOOST PUMP- If required to maintain fuel pressure
>> g. MIXTURE- Lean for smooth Operations
>>2) "HOT STARTS"
>> a. DO NOT PRIME- Then b. - g.
>> f. BOOST PUMP- On a heat soaked day, once the engine fires be
>>ready to engage the boost pump to stabilize the fuel pressure.
>>
>>I have used these techniques for the last 120 hours and have never been
>>cranking for more than 4-5 blades. This includes flight testing in Daggett
>>Ca. during July at 115 degrees OAT on the ground. The biggest thing I have
>>seen with Hot starts is overpriming. Fight the urge!!!!!
>>
>>Ed Perry
>>RV-8
>>IO-360-B1E /CS
>>
>>
>>Original Message -----
>>From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Trouble Starting
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>>>
>>>Yeah, it's the "Hot Starts" that give me some difficulty with these
>>
>>Lycoming
>>
>>>"IO" engines.
>>>
>>>
>>>do not archive
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: <RobHickman@aol.com>
>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Trouble Starting
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
>>>>
>>>>Gert,
>>>>
>>>>With an Injected engine you have a priming system, the injectors dump
>>
>>fuel
>>
>>>>right into the inlet valve. My IO-360 B1B will start right up when it
>
> is
>
>>>cold.
>>>
>>>>Rob Hickman
>>>>RV-4 N401RH
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 13
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| Subject: | Instrument panel cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
Well, I just ruined my first instrument panel on my 8A and I have to wonder
if there's a better way! I searched the archives and found some options but
I can't see spending hundreds of dollars for a panel design program I'm only going
to use once, or spend months learning how to use it. I have no CAD experience.
There seems to be plenty of guy's that can cut it out, but how can I get it
designed without spending a fortune?
Wayne
RV-8A
wiring
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Instrument panel cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: PSILeD@aol.com
Wayne,
Go to www.rvwoody.com. He will help design your panel and go as far as you
want him to go, including cutting all the holes. I received my panel kit from
him some time ago. He has a new version to include the DYNON D-10.
I am a very satisfied customer.
Paul
RV-8 QB
Message 15
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| Subject: | Instrument panel cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
The best option I have heard about is making templates for all your
instruments. Then placing them on a piece of card board or plexiglass and
move them till you are happy. Then cut out the openings in the card board
and place in plane and see how you like it. Do this until you are happy then
you can transfer the design to your panel. Then if you like you can have a
local machine shop cut out the panel or do it yourself.
Regards,
Trampas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne R. Couture
Subject: RV-List: Instrument panel cutting
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture"
<commando@cox-internet.com>
Well, I just ruined my first instrument panel on my 8A and I have to
wonder if there's a better way! I searched the archives and found some
options but I can't see spending hundreds of dollars for a panel design
program I'm only going to use once, or spend months learning how to use it.
I have no CAD experience.
There seems to be plenty of guy's that can cut it out, but how can I get
it designed without spending a fortune?
Wayne
RV-8A
wiring
Message 16
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| Subject: | 4" flange source for oil cooler hose? |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Hey Guys,
I've decided to use a 4" SCAT hose between my rear baffle and
firewall-mounted oil cooler. Aircraft Spruce's catalog only shows
flanges up to 3" in diameter. Anybody know of a source for a 4" flange,
or do I need to fab my own?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing....
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: 4" flange source for oil cooler hose? |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Four inch?? Wow! Mounting on FW must really be inefficient.
Take a piece of four inch pipe and cut a half inch slit in the end every
half inch around. Fold these strips out and fasten them to the baffle. In
other words make your own flange - a word which maybe comes from 'flanges'
or fingers. This is cheaper, lighter and uglier than the purchased style.
I mounted my oil cooler on the baffle. No hoses. Easy, quick, light
weight and very efficient. O360A1A
hal kempthorne
RV6a
At 11:19 AM 1/2/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>Hey Guys,
>
>I've decided to use a 4" SCAT hose between my rear baffle and
>firewall-mounted oil cooler. Aircraft Spruce's catalog only shows
>flanges up to 3" in diameter. Anybody know of a source for a 4" flange,
>or do I need to fab my own?
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List slow starter |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Milner" <tldrgred@execpc.com>
I had identical symptoms and took the starter to a rebuild shop. $177 later it
spins the enige over w/Odyssey 680 battery very fast. The bearings and field coils
were bad.
Message 19
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|
vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | CS prop: to bother or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
do not archive
OK, So I want a CS prop for ego reasons but it seems kind of against my
KISS approach to my RV philosophy. The wife could care or less if I get one
so the $ isn't the overriding issue (in fact she says to get whatever I want
so there'll be no regrets on my dream plane 'cuz once it's done she doesn't
want me living with the plane tweaking it everyday like I practically do now
- yeah right).
I've never operated a CS prop. I flown in them and only really noticed a
BIG difference in braking over fixed when flying acro in a Extra 300L. I've
heard the smaller props on 320/360 aren't that big a deal in the
acro/braking department. Compared to most normal rental SE GA airplanes, ANY
RV configuration is like a sports car to me. I read somewhere that CS props
have a TBO of about 1000 hrs. which is half that of the engine I'll be
using. That's a negative. They seem to have ADs/restrictions out the
wazoo on them with electronic ignition/360 combo so that's another real
negative (speaking about the Hartsells now, don't really know anything else
about the other brands). I don't live in the mountains or extremely hot
region and don't fly off a 1200 strip.
Van's most recent RVAtor doesn't exactly read like a ringing endorsement on
them either especially since RV design is kind of optimized for great cruise
speed and the top end performance doesn't beat the fixed Sensinich.
But none the less I like the idea of a few extra hundred fps climb rate and
would hope that pattern entry braking/formation flying braking is worth it.
Could someone steer me to an online article on how to install and operate
one and the pros and cons I'd really appreciate it. And if you have gone
from a CS to a fixed or vice a versa and wouldn't mind chatting could you
send me a private email? I have a finish kit order I'd have to change if I
decide to go CS hence my inquiry at this time.
thanks,
lucky
Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work and
yourself. http://special.msn.com/msnbc/workingmom.armx
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | tip-up canopy C-624 platsic strip or nylok nuts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
I just drilled my tip-up canopy to the canopy frame. The plans call
for the screws that go thru the side rails and the plexiglass to be
screwed into the C-624 plastic strip along the inside of the frame.
Seems to me that just some washers and nuts would be better. Does any
one have an opinion on this?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A QB
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Chutes for RVstests |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
You call that fired up? Give me a topic I can get fired up about such as
tipup versus
slider or tailwheel /nosewheel or threepoint/wheel landing. :-) :-)
Jerry
do not archive
C. Rabaut wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
>No but it sure fired you up. :-}
>
>do not archive
>
>----- Original Message -----
>What has your post contributed?
>
>
>>So far nothing that I can see.
>>
>>Jerry
>>do not archive
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: tip-up canopy C-624 platsic strip or nylok nuts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
The RV-7 canopy uses 6-32 screws and nuts all around (roll bar gets tapped).
I don't know if Van's changed the screw spacing or not, but anyway, food for
thought...screws & nuts seems pretty safe in my opinion.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: tip-up canopy C-624 platsic strip or nylok nuts
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> I just drilled my tip-up canopy to the canopy frame. The plans call
> for the screws that go thru the side rails and the plexiglass to be
> screwed into the C-624 plastic strip along the inside of the frame.
> Seems to me that just some washers and nuts would be better. Does any
> one have an opinion on this?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent
> RV-6A QB
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Fairings, which ones |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Im ready to purchase some "new" style fairings and wheel pants for my 6a and have
heard of a couple of diferent sources. I have a set of original wheel pants
that will be for sale soon. Im worried I'll get a set of one mfgs wheel pants
and someone else's fairings and they wont match up. Im leaing towards Vans
wheel pants but dont know about the fairings.
Any suggestions?
Jeff Dowling
Chicago/Louisville
6a, 2hours
Message 24
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|
"RV7 Yahoo List" <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>,
"RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | First flight pictures |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
Well its not much but here are some pics of my first flight for those who asked.
No aerial pictures yet.
http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm
Steve Hurlbut
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Slow Starter |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
1. 12.63 the cranking voltage? If not it sounds like it may be less than
fully charged. If it is then you are likely to have some extra resistance.
2 Try running an alternate ground... but initially measure the battery
negative to starter frame resistance, it should be less than a few
milliohms.
Doug
>
> My low compression O-320 has an original Delco-Remy boat anchor starter I
> wanted to retain for CG (and $!) reasons, and I am using one of the 17 Ah
> Panasonic batteries. Spun nicely with the plugs out, but yesterday I put in
the
> plugs and it will barely turn over- the blades almost stopping on each compression
> stroke. Battery voltage shows 12.63. Anyone else used this combination
> successfully or am I going to have to send B&C some more $$$?!
>
Message 26
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|
rv8list@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | RE: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: to bother or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
3 private emails I received focused on CG and wanted to know what kind of
plane I'm building. It's an RV 8. Sorry I didn't add that initially.
I'm using an O-360. Is there going to be a real CG issue if I use a
Hartzell? I wouldn't think so but would not be against putting the battery
in the back if so. I'm about 190 pounds *flying weight*.
lucky
>From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com, rv8list@yahoogroups.com,
>vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: to bother or not
>Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 14:34:43 -0500
>
>do not archive
>
>OK, So I want a CS prop for ego reasons but it seems kind of against my
>KISS approach to my RV philosophy. The wife could care or less if I get
>one
>so the $ isn't the overriding issue (in fac she says to get whatever I want
>so there'll be no regrets on my dream plane 'cuz once it's done she doesn't
>want me living with the plane tweaking it everyday like I practically do
>now
>- yeah right).
>
>I've never operated a CS prop. I flown in them and only really noticed a
>BIG difference in braking over fixed when flying acro in a Extra 300L.
>I've
>heard the smaller props on 320/360 aren't that big a deal in the
>acro/braking department. Compared to most normal rental SE GA airplanes,
>ANY
>RV configuration is like a sports car to me. I read somewhere that CS props
>have a TBO of about 1000 hrs. which is half that of the engine I'll be
>using. That's a negative. They seem to have ADs/restrictions out the
>wazoo on them with electronic ignition/360 combo so that's another real
>negative (speaking about the Hartsells now, don't really know anything else
>about the other brands). I don't live in the mountains or extremely hot
>region and don't fly off a 1200 strip.
>
>Van's most recent RVAtor doesn't exactly read like a ringing endorsement on
>them either especially since RV design is kind of optimized for great
>cruise
>speed and the top end performance doesn't beat the fixed Sensinich.
>
>But none the less I like the idea of a few extra hundred fps climb rate and
>would hope that pattern entry braking/formation flying braking is worth it.
>
>Could someone steer me to an online article on how to install and operate
>one and the pros and cons I'd really appreciate it. And if you have gone
>from a CS to a fixed or vice a versa and wouldn't mind chatting could you
>send me a private email? I have a finish kit order I'd have to change if I
>decide to go CS hence my inquiry at this time.
>
>thanks,
>lucky
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work and
>yourself. http://special.msn.com/msnbc/workingmom.armx
>
>
>Online help on this group at:
>http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
>To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Enjoy a special introductory offer for dial-up Internet access limited
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: to bother or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Lundin <rlundin46@yahoo.com>
If you can afford a CS prop put one on. The plane does
everything better. Climbs better, cruises better,
slows down better. Anyone who's flown both types of
props, knows a CS is better.
Rick
--- lucky macy <luckymacy@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy"
> <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> 3 private emails I received focused on CG and wanted
> to know what kind of
> plane I'm building. It's an RV 8. Sorry I didn't
> add that initially.
>
> I'm using an O-360. Is there going to be a real CG
> issue if I use a
> Hartzell? I wouldn't think so but would not be
> against putting the battery
> in the back if so. I'm about 190 pounds *flying
> weight*.
>
> lucky
>
>
> >From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
> >Reply-To: vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com, rv8list@yahoogroups.com,
>
> >vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: to bother or
> not
> >Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 14:34:43 -0500
> >
> >do not archive
> >
> >OK, So I want a CS prop for ego reasons but it
> seems kind of against my
> >KISS approach to my RV philosophy. The wife could
> care or less if I get
> >one
> >so the $ isn't the overriding issue (in fac she
> says to get whatever I want
> >so there'll be no regrets on my dream plane 'cuz
> once it's done she doesn't
> >want me living with the plane tweaking it everyday
> like I practically do
> >now
> >- yeah right).
> >
> >I've never operated a CS prop. I flown in them and
> only really noticed a
> >BIG difference in braking over fixed when flying
> acro in a Extra 300L.
> >I've
> >heard the smaller props on 320/360 aren't that big
> a deal in the
> >acro/braking department. Compared to most normal
> rental SE GA airplanes,
> >ANY
> >RV configuration is like a sports car to me. I read
> somewhere that CS props
> >have a TBO of about 1000 hrs. which is half that of
> the engine I'll be
> >using. That's a negative. They seem to have
> ADs/restrictions out the
> >wazoo on them with electronic ignition/360 combo so
> that's another real
> >negative (speaking about the Hartsells now, don't
> really know anything else
> >about the other brands). I don't live in the
> mountains or extremely hot
> >region and don't fly off a 1200 strip.
> >
> >Van's most recent RVAtor doesn't exactly read like
> a ringing endorsement on
> >them either especially since RV design is kind of
> optimized for great
> >cruise
> >speed and the top end performance doesn't beat the
> fixed Sensinich.
> >
> >But none the less I like the idea of a few extra
> hundred fps climb rate and
> >would hope that pattern entry braking/formation
> flying braking is worth it.
> >
> >Could someone steer me to an online article on how
> to install and operate
> >one and the pros and cons I'd really appreciate it.
> And if you have gone
> >from a CS to a fixed or vice a versa and wouldn't
> mind chatting could you
> >send me a private email? I have a finish kit order
> I'd have to change if I
> >decide to go CS hence my inquiry at this time.
> >
> >thanks,
> >lucky
> >
>
>_________________________________________________________________
> >Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing
> kids, home, work and
> >yourself.
> http://special.msn.com/msnbc/workingmom.armx
> >
> >
> >Online help on this group at:
> >http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
> >
> >
> >To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
> Enjoy a special introductory offer for dial-up
> Internet access limited
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com/top2003
Message 28
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|
"rv8list@egroups.com" <rv8list@egroups.com>
| Subject: | Electric seat heat |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Hi Folks
I am looking for a place to buy heating pads to insert into he seat
padding of my RV8.
I browsed/searched the RV list but most links were either defunct or of
companies who now only appear to sell completed systems rather than the
heating pads alone.
Could somebody please point me to a supplier of just the pads, not
completed seats or vests.
www.skylitesunroofs.com came up a few times, but I can't get to their
website anymore.
Thanks in advance !!
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Priming- Trouble Starting (Hot Start Techniques) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Perry" <eperry@san.rr.com>
Hi Gert,
IO-360 Priming:
a. MIXTURE - Lean
b. PROP- Forward
c. THROTTLE - 1/2" to 1" open
d. BOOST PUMP- ON
e. MIXTURE - Rich 4-6 seconds, then idle cutoff
f. BOOST PUMP - OFF
Continue with starting procedure....
Ed Perry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gert" <gert@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Trouble Starting (Hot Start Techniques)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
>
> Hi Guys
>
> So how exactly does one 'prime'??
> I am IO starting illiterate..........
>
> Gert
>
>
> C. Rabaut wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >
> > Ed,
> >
> > Thanks for the advice, it's similar to what I've found "helps".
But I
> > must admit I've managed to flood her a few times. I'll try your
formula as
> > soon as it gets hot enough here (we get 2 seasons here, Hot & Cold).
Take
> > care & Take Air,
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> > do not archive
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Ed Perry <eperry@san.rr.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Trouble Starting (Hot Start Techniques)
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Perry" <eperry@san.rr.com>
> >>
> >>I have a Lycoming IO-360-B1E and was concerned about hot starts and
vapor
> >>lock. Fortunately I have a great Tech Councilor named Fred Laforge and
he
> >>has the same engine. Through his years of use I get to benefit, so I
will
> >>pass his wisdom on to the list.......
> >>1) Cold Starts -
> >> a. PRIME FOR 4-6 SECONDS
> >> b. MIXTURE- lean
> >> c. BOOST PUMP-off
> >> d. THROTTLE- 1/2" to 1" open
> >> e. STARTER- Engage and when it catches move the mixture to rich
> >> f. BOOST PUMP- If required to maintain fuel pressure
> >> g. MIXTURE- Lean for smooth Operations
> >>2) "HOT STARTS"
> >> a. DO NOT PRIME- Then b. - g.
> >> f. BOOST PUMP- On a heat soaked day, once the engine fires be
> >>ready to engage the boost pump to stabilize the fuel pressure.
> >>
> >>I have used these techniques for the last 120 hours and have never been
> >>cranking for more than 4-5 blades. This includes flight testing in
Daggett
> >>Ca. during July at 115 degrees OAT on the ground. The biggest thing I
have
> >>seen with Hot starts is overpriming. Fight the urge!!!!!
> >>
> >>Ed Perry
> >>RV-8
> >>IO-360-B1E /CS
> >>
> >>
> >>Original Message -----
> >>From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Trouble Starting
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >>>
> >>>Yeah, it's the "Hot Starts" that give me some difficulty with these
> >>
> >>Lycoming
> >>
> >>>"IO" engines.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>do not archive
> >>>----- Original Message -----
> >>>From: <RobHickman@aol.com>
> >>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Trouble Starting
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>--> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
> >>>>
> >>>>Gert,
> >>>>
> >>>>With an Injected engine you have a priming system, the injectors dump
> >>
> >>fuel
> >>
> >>>>right into the inlet valve. My IO-360 B1B will start right up when it
> >
> > is
> >
> >>>cold.
> >>>
> >>>>Rob Hickman
> >>>>RV-4 N401RH
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Electric seat heat |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phat Phil <phugoid@comcast.net>
I got a Northern Tool catalog today and they have some listed as a
clearance item @ $99.
Item # 45261
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=1016347&categoryId=155625
Phil
Gert wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
>
>Hi Folks
>
>I am looking for a place to buy heating pads to insert into he seat
>padding of my RV8.
>
>I browsed/searched the RV list but most links were either defunct or of
>companies who now only appear to sell completed systems rather than the
>heating pads alone.
>
>Could somebody please point me to a supplier of just the pads, not
>completed seats or vests.
>
>www.skylitesunroofs.com came up a few times, but I can't get to their
>website anymore.
>
>Thanks in advance !!
>
>
>Gert
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Priming- Trouble Starting (Hot Start Techniques) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Gert:
I've got an IO360-B2B ... in a crate, so I don't know first hand
about hot starts - yet. However, an old hand told me a "sure fire" way
to get a hot start with an injected engine. I'll pass it on for what
it's worth:
Mixture set to lean
throttle open most of the way.
boost pump on.
Then start cranking. As it cranks, steadily make the mixture richer.
When it gets to the right richness level, the engine will start. Then,
I guess, make it a tad richer and throttle back.
Makes sense to me. After all, the problem with a hot start is to
find the combination of throttle & mixture that work for the engine's
present conditions. By sliding the mixture from full lean towards full
rich, you're bound to find the right setting. That's the theory anyway.
I hope to be able to test it sometime later this year.
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A.
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Instrument Panel cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
Thank you all for your responses. I've contacted Todd Rudberg to see what he can
do for me.
Do not archive
Wayne Couture
RV-8A
wiring
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fairings, which ones |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
I'm using the intersection fairing that Bob Snedaker makes for RV's. He's at
www.fiarings-etc.com and the fit and finish is very nice. I made the first
set myself
so I was very happy to replace those with Bob's.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
> Im ready to purchase some "new" style fairings and wheel pants for my 6a
and have
> heard of a couple of diferent sources. I have a set of original wheel
pants that will be
> for sale soon. Im worried I'll get a set of one mfgs wheel pants and
someone else's
> fairings and they wont match up. Im leaing towards Vans wheel pants but
dont know
> about the fairings.
> Any suggestions?
> Jeff Dowling
Message 34
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| Subject: | RV-list seat belts |
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
Hey guys, I have a set(front and rear) of seat belts for an RV-4 that
I will not be using. They are Red in color and are the standard(4 point)
type and are new and never used. If any one can use them let me know and
I have them shipped to you for 3/4 the cost at vans!
Joel "Weasel" Graber
-4 finishing
Brooksville Ms
Message 35
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| Subject: | Recommended Tools..... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Marshall M. Dues" <mmdues@hal-pc.org>
In case any new guys misinterpret this, it's humor!
Marshall Dues
RV-6 N243MD 774 hrs
Houston, Texas (DWH)
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer is nowadays used as
a
kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are
trying to hit.
MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard
cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes
containing seats and motorcycle jackets.
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes
until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes
just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It
transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you
attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
MOLE-GRIPS/ADJUSTABLE WRENCH: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is
available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of
your hand.
OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects
in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake-drum
you're trying to get the bearing race out of.
WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older cars and motorcycles, they are
now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching
for for the last 15 minutes.
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar
stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer
across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the
workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and
hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say, "F...."
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering car to the ground after you have
installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under
the front wing (fender).
EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic
jack.
TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbour to see if he has another hydraulic floor
jack.
SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading
mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.
BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times
harder than any known drill bit.
TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.
TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of
ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect.
CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that
inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the
handle.
BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a
car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is
dead as a doornail, just as you thought.
AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
INSPECTION LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop
light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not
otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is
to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate as 105-mm howitzer shells
during the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat
misleading.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin
oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to
round off Phillips screw heads.
AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a fossil-fuel burning
power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by
hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 30 years
ago by someone in Dagenham, and rounds them off.
PRY (CROW) BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.
Message 36
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| Subject: | Electric seat heat |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
This looks similar to the system I have. It has a 'brain box', and
would not recommend it for that reason. It's just one more thing to
find a place to install. I've seen other systems that don't have the
box.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Phat Phil [mailto:phugoid@comcast.net]
> Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 8:53 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric seat heat
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Phat Phil <phugoid@comcast.net>
>
> I got a Northern Tool catalog today and they have some listed as a
> clearance item @ $99.
> Item # 45261
> http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductD
> isplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST
> =Y&productId=1016347&categoryId=155625
>
>
> Phil
>
>
> Gert wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
> >
> >Hi Folks
> >
> >I am looking for a place to buy heating pads to insert into he seat
> >padding of my RV8.
> >
> >I browsed/searched the RV list but most links were either
> defunct or of
> >companies who now only appear to sell completed systems
> rather than the
> >heating pads alone.
> >
> >Could somebody please point me to a supplier of just the pads, not
> >completed seats or vests.
> >
> >www.skylitesunroofs.com came up a few times, but I can't get to their
> >website anymore.
> >
> >Thanks in advance !!
> >
> >
> >Gert
> >
>
>
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | F-794A lower horizontal stabilizer/fuselage fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: RAMTHAXTON@aol.com
Are there other ways to attach this fairing to the fuselage. The plans call
for countersinking the longeron for # 6 screws and dimpling the fairing. Looks
like the countersink will go almost all the way thru longeron which would
leave little room for the 6/32 threads.
Bob Thaxton, RV-7QB, Indiana
Message 38
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| Subject: | Van's 2 1/4" Engine Instruments & GNS430 Cooling |
--> RV-List message posted by: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000@yahoo.com>
I am planning my Instr Panel and need the Height and
Width of these 2 1/4" Diameter Instruments - RPM, MP,
Fuel Press, Fuel Quanity - L & R, Ammeter. Are they
ALL 2 3/8" x 2 3/8" or some other dimension ? The
TruTrack Autopilot case size is 2.5" x 2.5", so there
is "no standard dimension" for 2 1/4" Diameter
Instruments
How reliable are they ?
Are you Builders using an external Cooling Fan for the
GNS430 ?
Thanks, Garey (RV-8A)
__________________________________
http://photos.yahoo.com/
Message 39
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| Subject: | Wire and cable source? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "jgburns" <jgburns@comcast.net>
I spent a few hours today searching for a convenient Tefzel wire and cable source.
No joy.
I'm not looking to for advice to use PVC low smoke plenum cable or other products
- I understand the trade-offs and may compromise.
In summary:
- Van's and Aircraft Spruce offers single Tefzel wire, not cable.
- Local Albuquerque sources have to special order and they require huge quantities.
- On-line sources, such as WireMasters, Inc. may require large orders as well and
there's the wholesale hurdle.
My immediate need is for 20 AWG, 7 conductor, unshielded cable.
Can anyone point me to a reasonably priced source for low quantity orders?
Thanks,
John, 7A QB on the slow track
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Wire and cable source? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 1/2/2004 10:59:59 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jgburns@comcast.net writes:
I spent a few hours today searching for a convenient Tefzel wire and cable
source. No joy.
I'm not looking to for advice to use PVC low smoke plenum cable or other
products - I understand the tradeoffs and may compromise.
In summary:
- Van's and Aircraft Spruce offers single Tefzel wire, not cable.
- Local Albuquerque sources have to special order and they require huge
quantities.
- On-line sources, such as WireMasters, Inc. may require large orders as well
and there's the wholesale hurdle.
My immediate need is for 20 AWG, 7 conductor, unshielded cable.
Can anyone point me to a reasonably priced source for low quantity orders?
Try Halted Specialties in Santa Clara, CA. They may have a PTFE version of
what you want. They buy and sell local company surplus.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 675 hrs)
Message 41
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
I would check that all the connections are bolted up real tight. One poor
connection makes a huge difference. Steve.
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