Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:18 AM - Re: Flap motor failure (RVEIGHTA@aol.com)
2. 06:47 AM - Re: CHT #4 and oil cooler placement... (Alan McKeen)
3. 06:58 AM - Re: Flap motor failure (RV8ter@aol.com)
4. 09:13 AM - Indexing Props (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
5. 09:37 AM - Re: Slow starter redux (Alan McKeen)
6. 09:52 AM - Re: propeller indexing and engine smoothness (Chris Good)
7. 09:55 AM - Re: CHT #4 and oil cooler placement... (czechsix@juno.com)
8. 10:50 AM - Re: Flap motor failure (Garry Legare)
9. 10:50 AM - Seat heat....the sequel (Gert)
10. 10:52 AM - Re: Flap motor failure (Garry Legare)
11. 10:57 AM - Re: CHT #4 and oil cooler placement... (Garry Legare)
12. 11:24 AM - Re: manual engine pre-oiler ()
13. 11:48 AM - Re: propeller indexing and engine smoothness (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
14. 12:09 PM - bag 603 identification (thomas a. sargent)
15. 12:16 PM - Whirlwind 151-series Propeller Installation (Ken Brooks)
16. 12:26 PM - Brake stuff (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
17. 01:01 PM - Insurance 1st flight (J. R. Dial)
18. 01:30 PM - Re: [rv8list] Seat heat....the sequel (Gert)
19. 02:27 PM - Re:Brake stuff (Bob n' Lu Olds)
20. 04:36 PM - Re: manual engine pre-oiler (Richard Dudley)
21. 04:36 PM - Test (Steve Struyk)
22. 04:41 PM - Re: Flap motor failure (RVEIGHTA@aol.com)
23. 04:52 PM - new member introduction (ryan gottlieb)
24. 05:24 PM - Re: Flap motor failure (Lenleg@aol.com)
25. 05:57 PM - Re: Re: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: to bother or not (Larry Pardue)
26. 05:57 PM - Re: Re: F-794A lower horizontal stabilizer/fuselage fairing (Larry Pardue)
27. 06:11 PM - Cracked AN470AD4 rivets when using a pneumatic squeezer. (Tim Lewis)
28. 06:26 PM - Re: Flap motor failure (David Stafford)
29. 07:28 PM - Re: FAB-360 Airbox RV6-A (Tim Lewis)
30. 07:36 PM - Re: Cracked AN470AD4 rivets when using a pneumatic squeezer. tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06 (Cy Galley)
31. 07:38 PM - Re: manual engine pre-oiler (Larry Bowen)
32. 07:49 PM - Re: Cracked AN470AD4 rivets when using a pneumatic squeezer. tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06 (David Carter)
33. 08:07 PM - Re: Electric seat heat (Larygagnon@aol.com)
34. 08:10 PM - Re: CHT #4 and oil cooler placement... (Charles Rowbotham)
35. 08:17 PM - Re: Flap motor failure (Larygagnon@aol.com)
36. 08:39 PM - Re: Electric seat heat (Randy Lervold)
37. 08:40 PM - Re: manual engine pre-oiler (thomas a. sargent)
38. 08:48 PM - Re: Fairings, which ones (Imfairings@aol.com)
39. 08:52 PM - Re: Re: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: to bother or not (Laird Owens)
40. 09:01 PM - Re: manual engine pre-oiler (Larygagnon@aol.com)
41. 09:19 PM - Re: Flap motor failure (Dan Checkoway)
42. 09:45 PM - Re: Re: F-794A lower horizontal stabilizer/fuselage fairing (Jim Oke)
43. 09:56 PM - light weight propellers (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
44. 10:38 PM - Re: Insurance 1st flight (WPAerial@aol.com)
45. 10:45 PM - Re: Cracked AN470AD4 rivets when using a pneumatic squeezer. tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06 (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
This is very interesting. I was just about ready to post a similar email
about problems I've had with my flap motor. In 54 hours of flying my 8A, the flap
motor has failed twice. Actually the first time, it failed intermittently,
then entirely. However on a recent flight, the flaps just refused to move,
period.
In my case, it wasn't "goop" on the brushes. One of the brush springs just
popped out - at least that's what happened the first time. I haven't removed the
motor for inspection this time.
By the way have you contacted Van's to complain?
Walt Shipley RV-8A
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: CHT #4 and oil cooler placement... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alan McKeen" <amckeen@twcny.rr.com>
I have four position digital EGT and CHT on my RV-6, O-320. My oil cooler is mounted
to the left side engine baffle. Number four cylinder is the coolest running
EGT and CHT always, on my engine. Numbers 1 and 3 are always the highest
EGT, and 1 and 2 are usually the highest CHT, only occasionally is number 3
is highest on the CHT, never number four.
Alan McKeen
RV-6
N418AL
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
do not archive
is it possible the motor is resting against either the fuse skin or side
panel and getting the heck shook out and dragging hard against a panel as it
traverses?
In a message dated 1/4/2004 9:20:03 AM Eastern Standard Time,
RVEIGHTA@aol.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
This is very interesting. I was just about ready to post a similar email
about problems I've had with my flap motor. In 54 hours of flying my 8A, the
flap
motor has failed twice. Actually the first time, it failed intermittently,
then entirely. However on a recent flight, the flaps just refused to move,
period.
In my case, it wasn't "goop" on the brushes. One of the brush springs just
popped out - at least that's what happened the first time. I haven't removed
the
motor for inspection this time.
By the way have you contacted Van's to complain?
Walt Shipley RV-8A
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Any suggestions or recommendations on indexing 3-blade props? Mine's a Catto
composite (f-glass over wood core), which I must say he did a beautiful job
on!
Thanks!
Mark - do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Slow starter redux |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alan McKeen" <amckeen@twcny.rr.com>
The Air-Tec starter that I received for my 160 HP RV-6 is the Lexus/Toyota V6 Nippondenso
unit. It fit just fine under the cowl of my RV-6, and works well.
Alan McKeen
N418AL
RV-6
600 Hours on the Hobbs
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: propeller indexing and engine smoothness |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Dick,
Isn't one of the bushings on the crankshaft larger than the other five? Did you
have to swap them around, & if so, how did you press them out.
I just had my prop (O-360 Sensenich FP) dynamically balanced after Sensenich repitched
it from 83 to 86. We reduced the vibration at 2100 rpm from 0.297 to
0.024 ips, but there was still around 0.5 ips at 1000 rpm. The guy doing it was
at a loss to explain this, but he did ask if I had the prop indexed correctly.
He wants to have another go at it, so maybe I should also try this Sky Ranch
trick first.
It feels much smoother at cruise now, but still shakes around a lot on the ground
at low rpm. Is this normal?
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV-6A flying 650 hrs.
--
--------- Original Message ---------
DATE: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 00:19:36
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
>
>I can second Bill's suggestion in the following post. We re-indexed a fixed
>pitch Sensinich on a low compression O-360 powered RV8A today. The owner,
>who had been complaining of vibration, said the change made a very
>significant improvement. This after trying everything else we could think
>of. The prop had been dynamically balanced previously and required only
>required a few grams to balance to .04 IPS. We removed this small weight
>along with the re-indexing and still saw the significant improvement.
>
>Dick Sipp
>RV4 250DS RV10 110DV
>
>SportAV8R@aol.com
>>
>> Over the weekend I had to pull the cowl and prop to make repairs on a
>broken aluminum alternator tension arm, and thought while I had the prop off
>anyway I would try a suggestion I had read about in the Sky Ranch
>Engineering Manual. It says that a flat four engine will run more smoothly
>if the prop is indexed to be in the same plane as the crank pins, meaning it
>is horizontal when the pistons are at top or bottom dead center. This
>orientation is 60 degrees away from the indexing that is traditional for
>Lycomings, which is a concession to ease of hand-propping.
>>
>> Well, I tried it and it works. The difference in smoothness was noticable
>from very first startup, and the engine is (subjectively) smoother at all
>rpm ranges. The prop now stops at about 1 o'clock position viewed from the
>front, as opposed to the traditional 10 o'clock position. The compression
>stroke is felt much lower down in the swing, making it indeed very awkward
>and dangerous to hand prop as you have to bend way over to pull it through.
>But since I never hand prop my plane, I consider it worth the trade off. I'm
>going to take a wild guess and say the vibration level is about half what it
>was before. I find myself now wondering if the dynamic balance I was
>considering before would even be worth the cost and effort. Now, if only we
>could solve the exhaust pulse floor vibration as easily ;-)
>>
>> -Bill Boyd
>>
>>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: CHT #4 and oil cooler placement... |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Hi Alan, that's interesting....I thought #1 and 2 were usually the lowest
CHT's and that's why you often see an air dam or deflector in front of
them to warm them up and deflect more cooling air to the back cylinders 3
and 4??
Either I'm misunderstanding what's happening or there's a lot of
variation from one installation to the next. The accuracy of probes can
always be an issue too....
Thanks for the input, doesn't sound like it matters much where the cooler
is mounted but one consistent trend seems to be that #4 is never the
hottest as I had mistakenly assumed. Perhaps this is because the
incoming air tends to flow all the way to the back baffle and then down
around the #4 exhaust port, keeping it cooler than #3 (which has it's
exhaust port on the front side next to cyl #1 and would have to share
cooling air with #1).
Interesting...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fwf stuff...
On Sun, 4 Jan 2004 09:45:57 -0500 "Alan McKeen" <amckeen@twcny.rr.com>
writes:
I have four position digital EGT and CHT on my RV-6, O-320. My oil
cooler is mounted to the left side engine baffle. Number four cylinder
is the coolest running EGT and CHT always, on my engine. Numbers 1 and 3
are always the highest EGT, and 1 and 2 are usually the highest CHT, only
occasionally is number 3 is highest on the CHT, never number four.
Alan McKeen
RV-6
N418AL
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Garry Legare <versadek@earthlink.net>
Yes, at about 80 Hr., intermittent at first then finally quit for good.
Took it apart, cleaned grease out has worked fine for another 80 hr.
Casper
Jerry2DT@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>
>Listers...
>
>Recently we've repaired the electric flap motor in our RV6a twice in 30
>hours. Upon searching the archives I see others have had the problem, consisting
of
>goop accumulating on the brushes. I've asked the manufacturer of the motor
>about it and they are "unaware of any problem", and suggested I just "continue
>what you're doing to fix it". I guess this means disassembly every 30 hours or
>so. Both times it has failed the flaps were in the up position, and we were
>close to home, luckily. The first time, it did give a bit of warning with
>intermittent flap operation, the second time it just plain quit.
>
>I would like to ask others who have experience with this problem to weigh
>in, either on this board or by email, so I can give them a better idea of the
>scope of the problem. Thanks to all.
>
>Jerry Cochran
>-6a flying
>-6a building
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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rv-list <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Seat heat....the sequel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Hi Folks
Thanks to all who have pointed me to places to find seat heat.
I have sent out requests for quotes as not many places actually
displayed pricing for their seat heat, some went as far as to state that
only their rep's are allowed to install and hence those are the only
folks they will sell to. same held true for heating pads from Car
dealerships.
Here is the next question to ponder, what would you be willing to pay
for a electric seat heater for your Passenger. It seems pricing may vary
as far as 100 to 250 per seat, for the near same system. (anybody has a
good place, local to you, who had reasonable pricing??)
If it were easy to install, would you be interested in doing it
yourself?? trying to see if there is enough interest to facilitate a
group buy or something like that.
Oh Yeah....are there any 24 volt RV's flying??
Thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Garry Legare <versadek@earthlink.net>
Gary, it looks to me to be gear case leakage. Mine was purchased 1999,
don't know the brand.
Casper
Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 1/3/2004 5:55:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>Jerry2DT@aol.com writes:
>Recently we've repaired the electric flap motor in our RV6a twice in 30
>hours. Upon searching the archives I see others have had the problem,
>consisting of
>goop accumulating on the brushes. I've asked the manufacturer of the motor
>about it and they are "unaware of any problem", and suggested I just
>"continue
>what you're doing to fix it". I guess this means disassembly every 30 hours
>or
>so. Both times it has failed the flaps were in the up position, and we were
>close to home, luckily. The first time, it did give a bit of warning with
>intermittent flap operation, the second time it just plain quit.
>This is surprising. I've got 600+ hrs on my Motion Industries (at least was
>what Van's was using when I bought in the early 90's) flap actuator without a
>hint of a problem. Is yours the same brand? IIRC the Motion unit has a
>Pittman brand motor on it. Pittman is one of the top names in electric motors,
so
>what's really going on here? Where is the goop coming from?
>
>
>GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 675 hrs)
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: CHT #4 and oil cooler placement... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Garry Legare <versadek@earthlink.net>
My 6 is same as Gary's, except his is prettier. #4 is NOT the hottest on
#3 is. Just reinforce the mount location and you'll save weight,
complexity and have more room to get at things behind the engine.
Casper
Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 1/3/2004 2:00:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>czechsix@juno.com writes:
>For those of you flying, do you find that the CHT on #4 (left aft
>cylinder) tends to be the hottest? I've got an -8A with O-360-A1A if
>that makes a difference, but I'd assume it's the same trend for any
>Lycoming installation.
>No. #3 is usually by far the hottest. #4 runs very cool. Oil Cooler on
>baffle behind #4 is what I would advise. Just make sure you reinforce this area
>as the cooler is quite massive when full of oil.
>
>
>GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 675 hrs)
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: manual engine pre-oiler |
--> RV-List message posted by: <ptjohn@comcast.net>
I've used a pressure pump from Home Depot a couple times and it works great --
and it only costs a fraction of the Aircraft Spruce pre-oiler. All you do is
pour the oil in, pump it up, plug it in, and go off and do something else for
a while. I've used it on an O-235 engine and the wand fitting fits very nicely
into the pre-oiler orifice. You'd have to check on different engines and
possibly do a little mode to get it to fit.
Pete
N266PJ (a 1/2 scale Corsair -- about to pick up an RV-8 kit)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: propeller indexing and engine smoothness |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Chris Good wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
>
>Dick,
>
>Isn't one of the bushings on the crankshaft larger than the other five? Did you
have to swap them around, & if so, how did you press them out.
>
>
I just had my prop (O-360 Sensenich FP) dynamically balanced after
Sensenich repitched it from 83 to 86. We reduced the vibration at 2100
rpm from 0.297 to 0.024 ips, but there was still around 0.5 ips at 1000
rpm. The guy doing it was at a loss to explain this, but he did ask if I
had the prop indexed correctly. He wants to have another go at it, so
maybe I should also try this Sky Ranch trick first.
>It feels much smoother at cruise now, but still shakes around a lot on the ground
at low rpm. Is this normal?
>
Regards,
>Chris Good,
>West Bend, WI
>RV-6A flying 650 hrs.
>
>
It should only be larger for about 1/4 inch as it comes through the
flywheel. This is to index the flywheel so that the timing marks will be
correct.. After passing through the flywheel they should all be about
the same size which should allow you to rotate it ....
Phil
Message 14
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| Subject: | bag 603 identification |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Can any one help me identify the parts bag that comes with the tip-up
canopy brace kit? My RV-6A kit is old enough that it didn't include the
canopy brace, so I ordered it a few months back. I believe it was bag
603. There is no bag 603 in my list for the original kit, but I do have
a bag 603 and I'm trying to verify that it is the one that came with the
canopy brace.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Whirlwind 151-series Propeller Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
The 3-blade WhirlWind 151-series propeller costs:
$6,900 - prop
$1,275 - Jihostroj governor $8,475 plus $250 shipping to IL from El
Cajon, CA
$ 300 - custom paint colors
Photos on Photoshare at:
<http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kenbrooks@charter.net.01.03.2004/index.
html>
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kenbrooks@charter.net.01.03.2004/index.h
tml
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
Wiring and Plumbing
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
I know y'all are getting sick of me, but I got another one!
My -6A will make its first flight from a grass field. What are the proper
break-in procedures for the brake linings and does the paint on the discs get
removed during this process? No, the local gendarmes will NOT let me take it
out on the highway! I found some archived stuff but nothing about grass strips
&
nothing in the manual.
Thanks again as always!
Mark - do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Insurance 1st flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
What seems to be best for insurance on new RV6 and what are
requirements for the pilot on first flight and have insurance coverage?
You can answer off list.
Thanks
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Seat heat....the sequel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Hi Terry
I am working with Abby Erdmann, Flightline Interiors LLC, for an
interior for my RV8. She is very interested in pursuing a seat heat
option. Some of the questions I raised here were a result of me talking
with Abby to find a good solution.
As for the cushion, a cushion to raise the seat could just as easy be
designed to go UNDER the heated seat, to raise the heated seat, so that
should not be an issue.
As for pricing, I would go for about $100 per seat too. I found pricing
to vary, if pricing was available, between about 100 to 250 per seat.
Abby's info is:
Flightline Interiors LLC
Abby Erdmann, President
Phone: 262-679-5934
email: erdmannb@execpc.com
there are some prices on http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/intprice.html.
Abby is using my RV8 as well as some others to come up with a seat set
for the RV8. She does really nice work and is very responsive to
questions, suggestions and feedback.
There are some pictures on a RV9A Abby did recently at
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/interior.html
Gert
Terry Watson wrote:
> Gert,
>
> Please put me on your list as interested in electric chairs for my 8A.
> Having seen the range of prices, I think I might balk at anything over $100
> per seat.
>
> It occurs to me that one possible but expensive solution to the problem of
> some passengers needing a seat cushion to get the proper seating height
> might be to put heat in a removable cushion too.
>
> Does anyone know if any of the people who do custom upholstery for RV's
> install seat heaters?
>
> Terry
> 8A #80729 wiring
> Seattle
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gert [mailto:gert@execpc.com]
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 10:49 AM
> To: rv8list@egroups.com; rv-list
> Cc: Erdmann's
> Subject: [rv8list] Seat heat....the sequel
>
> Hi Folks
>
> Thanks to all who have pointed me to places to find seat heat.
>
> I have sent out requests for quotes as not many places actually
> displayed pricing for their seat heat, some went as far as to state that
> only their rep's are allowed to install and hence those are the only
> folks they will sell to. same held true for heating pads from Car
> dealerships.
>
>
> Here is the next question to ponder, what would you be willing to pay
> for a electric seat heater for your Passenger. It seems pricing may vary
> as far as 100 to 250 per seat, for the near same system. (anybody has a
> good place, local to you, who had reasonable pricing??)
>
> If it were easy to install, would you be interested in doing it
> yourself?? trying to see if there is enough interest to facilitate a
> group buy or something like that.
>
> Oh Yeah....are there any 24 volt RV's flying??
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Gert
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks@aol.com>
I flew our RV-4 off our 1100' grass strip the first flight. I went to a friends
longer(2300')grass strip for the first few landings and all went well without
any special break-in for the brakes. You shouldn't overheat them before they
have a chance to temper the pads,a few landings should do that. It usually doesn't
take much braking for the RV, if you slow it down for landing.
My opinion only.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: manual engine pre-oiler |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Pete,
I am interested in your means of pre-oiling and have a couple of
questions:
- When you mention a Home Depot pressure pump do you mean a pump type
garden sprayer or some other type of pressure pump?
- What is the pre-oiler orifice on the engine? I suppose the location
may be different on an O-320 but what is the generic opening? I have
heard of using the oil pressure opening on the engine.
Thanks.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A myriad of finishing details
ptjohn@comcast.net wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: <ptjohn@comcast.net>
>
> I've used a pressure pump from Home Depot a couple times and it works great
-- and it only costs a fraction of the Aircraft Spruce pre-oiler. All you do
is pour the oil in, pump it up, plug it in, and go off and do something else
for a while. I've used it on an O-235 engine and the wand fitting fits very nicely
into the pre-oiler orifice. You'd have to check on different engines and
possibly do a little mode to get it to fit.
> Pete
> N266PJ (a 1/2 scale Corsair -- about to pick up an RV-8 kit)
>
Message 21
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
Matt,
Thanks for the response. Here's the test. I Cc'd to you as you requested.
Do not archive.
Steve
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
I've checked for abrasion marks against the side panel and fuselage and don't
see any evidence of rubbing.
Walt
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | new member introduction |
--> RV-List message posted by: "ryan gottlieb" <gottliebmk@msn.com>
Hello, I am a new member. My name is Ryan Gottlieb. I am in DurhamNC and hope to
buy the RV 10 kit when I can afford the time, space and money. Are any of you
in the NC triangle area?
Ryan
Ryan Gottlieb
Gottlieb Dental Laboratory
5132 Kenwood Road
Durham, NC 27712
(919) 471-6420
Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work and yourself.
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
I have had flap motor problems several times. Usually they just refuse to go
down. I land with no flaps ... sometime later they start working again.
So far the motor has not quit completely.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
188 hrs
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: to bother or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Lundin <rlundin46@yahoo.com>
>
>
> If you can afford a CS prop put one on. The plane does
> everything better. Climbs better, cruises better,
> slows down better. Anyone who's flown both types of
> props, knows a CS is better.
> Rick
Everything better? Did you read the Van's test?
Do not archive
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 with Sensenich 72FM8 that is faster than a constant speed and a lot
cheaper.
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: F-794A lower horizontal stabilizer/fuselage fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: RAMTHAXTON@aol.comAre there other ways to
attach this fairing to the fuselage. The plans call for countersinking the
longeron for # 6 screws and dimpling the fairing. Lookslike the countersink
will go almost all the way thru longeron which would leave little room for
the 6/32 threads.Bob Thaxton, RV-7QB, Indiana
>
>
> I thought there had to be a better way and my solution was to simply bond
the fairings in place with good ol proseal. This provides the slickest
means possible of attaching the fairings,
I don't understand how you inspect that area. Rebond every annual?
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 27
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| Subject: | Cracked AN470AD4 rivets when using a pneumatic squeezer. |
tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
Listers,
While doing some riveting on my -10 rudder I've run in to a situation that
I've not seen before. I'm seeing a crack on the side of the shop head of
many of my AN470AD4-x rivets. Please see the photo at
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a/SqueezedAN470AD4-5.jpg .
The situation:
- This rivet is from the rudder spar web.
- It's an AN470AD4-5
- It was squeezed using a pneumatic rivet squeezer with a 3" yoke.
-- The flat die used to form the shop head was ground so as to be at a
slight angle (vs perfectly perpendicular to the shop head). This
compensates for the "spring" of the 3" yoke when squeezing #4 rivets. -
The crack appears not to continue thru the center of the shop head
-- it APPEARS to only involve the outer layer of the shop head.
- There is no crack in the factory head.
- When I drive the rivets with my rivet gun I don't see this shop head
cracking phenomena. - I didn't see this phenomena while building my -6,
but I used only a hand squeezer and rivet gun on that plane.
- Is this shop head crack common when a pneumatic squeezer is used?
- Is it anything to worry about?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 600 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - 600 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
Message 28
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| Subject: | Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Stafford" <dstafford98@bellsouth.net>
Jerry,
Yep, I had to clean the flap motor twice in 150 hours. I sure would like
to
know why this happens to some and not others.
David Stafford
-6 flying
==========================================
Time: 05:55:03 PM PST US
From: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Flap motor failure
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Listers...
Recently we've repaired the electric flap motor in our RV6a twice in 30
hours. Upon searching the archives I see others have had the problem,
consisting
of
goop accumulating on the brushes. I've asked the manufacturer of the
motor
about it and they are "unaware of any problem", and suggested I just
"continue
what you're doing to fix it". I guess this means disassembly every 30
hours or
so. Both times it has failed the flaps were in the up position, and we
were
close to home, luckily. The first time, it did give a bit of warning
with
intermittent flap operation, the second time it just plain quit.
I would like to ask others who have experience with this problem to
weigh
in, either on this board or by email, so I can give them a better idea
of the
scope of the problem. Thanks to all.
Jerry Cochran
-6a flying
-6a building
Message 29
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|
owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: FAB-360 Airbox RV6-A |
tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
> List: I am running into a clearance problem with the back of my
> airbox being to close to the nose gear? What have other builders done?
> In any case it appears I will need to modify the air filter base to
> fit around the drain in my carburetor......correct?
> I have a 0360-A1A and any help would be greatly
> appreciated.
> Tom in Ohio
>
I had the same problem. Had to cut a pretty good sized notch out of the
bottom rear edge of the FAB to clear the nose gear. Then I had to enlarge
the notch (twice) to keep the nose gear when the gear from hitting the FAB
when the nose gear flexes during operation.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 600 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cracked AN470AD4 rivets when using a pneumatic squeezer. |
tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Get a fresh supply of rivets. How is the head marked?
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cracked AN470AD4 rivets when using a pneumatic squeezer.
tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
>
> Listers,
>
> While doing some riveting on my -10 rudder I've run in to a situation that
> I've not seen before. I'm seeing a crack on the side of the shop head of
> many of my AN470AD4-x rivets. Please see the photo at
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a/SqueezedAN470AD4-5.jpg .
>
> The situation:
> - This rivet is from the rudder spar web.
> - It's an AN470AD4-5
> - It was squeezed using a pneumatic rivet squeezer with a 3" yoke.
> -- The flat die used to form the shop head was ground so as to be at a
> slight angle (vs perfectly perpendicular to the shop head). This
> compensates for the "spring" of the 3" yoke when squeezing #4 rivets. -
> The crack appears not to continue thru the center of the shop head
> -- it APPEARS to only involve the outer layer of the shop head.
> - There is no crack in the factory head.
> - When I drive the rivets with my rivet gun I don't see this shop head
> cracking phenomena. - I didn't see this phenomena while building my -6,
> but I used only a hand squeezer and rivet gun on that plane.
>
> - Is this shop head crack common when a pneumatic squeezer is used?
> - Is it anything to worry about?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 600 hrs
> RV-10 #40059 under construction
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD - 600 hrs
> RV-10 #40059 under construction
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | manual engine pre-oiler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
You are talking of pre-oiling before first engine start? Is it not
satisfactory to take out a plug from each cylinder and spin the engine
until the oil pressure builds?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Dudley [mailto:rhdudley@att.net]
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 5:18 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: manual engine pre-oiler
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
> Hi Pete,
>
> I am interested in your means of pre-oiling and have a couple of
> questions:
>
> - When you mention a Home Depot pressure pump do you mean a
> pump type garden sprayer or some other type of pressure pump?
>
> - What is the pre-oiler orifice on the engine? I suppose the
> location may be different on an O-320 but what is the generic
> opening? I have heard of using the oil pressure opening on
> the engine.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A myriad of finishing details
>
> ptjohn@comcast.net wrote:
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: <ptjohn@comcast.net>
> >
> > I've used a pressure pump from Home Depot a couple times and it
> > works great -- and it only costs a fraction of the Aircraft Spruce
> > pre-oiler. All you do is pour the oil in, pump it up, plug
> it in, and
> > go off and do something else for a while. I've used it on an O-235
> > engine and the wand fitting fits very nicely into the pre-oiler
> > orifice. You'd have to check on different engines and
> possibly do a
> > little mode to get it to fit. Pete N266PJ (a 1/2 scale Corsair --
> > about to pick up an RV-8 kit)
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cracked AN470AD4 rivets when using a pneumatic squeezer. |
tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I think maybe you need to set those "improved" rivet sets and try the "std"
items and see what your results are. That's where I'd start in trying to
isolate the cause of your cracked shop heads. I use a pneumatic squeezer
with air pressure 110psi and never crack any rivets.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cracked AN470AD4 rivets when using a pneumatic squeezer.
tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
>
> Listers,
>
> While doing some riveting on my -10 rudder I've run in to a situation that
> I've not seen before. I'm seeing a crack on the side of the shop head of
> many of my AN470AD4-x rivets. Please see the photo at
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a/SqueezedAN470AD4-5.jpg .
>
> The situation:
> - This rivet is from the rudder spar web.
> - It's an AN470AD4-5
> - It was squeezed using a pneumatic rivet squeezer with a 3" yoke.
> -- The flat die used to form the shop head was ground so as to be at a
> slight angle (vs perfectly perpendicular to the shop head). This
> compensates for the "spring" of the 3" yoke when squeezing #4 rivets. -
> The crack appears not to continue thru the center of the shop head
> -- it APPEARS to only involve the outer layer of the shop head.
> - There is no crack in the factory head.
> - When I drive the rivets with my rivet gun I don't see this shop head
> cracking phenomena. - I didn't see this phenomena while building my -6,
> but I used only a hand squeezer and rivet gun on that plane.
>
> - Is this shop head crack common when a pneumatic squeezer is used?
> - Is it anything to worry about?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 600 hrs
> RV-10 #40059 under construction
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD - 600 hrs
> RV-10 #40059 under construction
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Electric seat heat |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
My shop does seat heater installation for new car dealers so I added a set of
heaters to my RV6. I carry Rosta, Check Corp, and Katskin. There are some
with Carbon fiber heating elements and some with resistance wire. Those with
one temperature usually don't have a control module (box) but the ones that do
are small and easily hidden and are very reliable. Some units are custom fit
and others are universal and have to be trimmed to the particular application.
Switches are round, rectangular or square all with the seat heater logo.
Most are fused with 6.5 amp fuses but I can check the specs to see what they
draw. I can offer them to anyone on the list at reduced pricing. Contact me off
list if I can answer any questions.
Larry Gagnon N6LG 39.8 hours
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | CHT #4 and oil cooler placement... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Mark,
We hCHT been there with our RV-8A and 200hp IO-360A1B6. Our history is as
follows:
Initially installed the Positech oil cooler recommeded by Vans, on the Left
rear baffle per Van's recommendations. We were consistently running high oil
temps. Positech replaced the original oil cooler with there improved model
(at no charge). The new oil cooler eliminated the air damming that was due
to the min clearence on the cooling lines in the original oil cooler.
But being experimentors were made a bracket for the oil cooler and mounted
on the right side of the firewall and made a plenum which we attached a 3"
SCAT tube to the new left rear baffle.
We still had high oil temps - In working with Positech (Brain really
supported our effort to get lower oil temps) he suggested that we were
getting to much air resistance from the SCAT tube (due to length and bends).
We relocated the improved oil cooler to the left rear baffle and have not
had a problem with high oil temps since.
We do see Cyl # 3's CHT about 5-10 degrees Cyl higher than Cyls 1 & 2 .
Cyl # 4 on the other hand is always about 10-20 degrees Cel cooler than the
other cyls. A number of RV-8 builders, with the IO-360, have said they
experience the same situation. The consensus is the due the oil cool
directly behind #4 it is getting better cooling.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: czechsix@juno.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: CHT #4 and oil cooler placement...
>Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 15:55:25 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>Guys,
>
>For those of you flying, do you find that the CHT on #4 (left aft
>cylinder) tends to be the hottest? I've got an -8A with O-360-A1A if
>that makes a difference, but I'd assume it's the same trend for any
>Lycoming installation....
>
>My reason for asking is that I'm pondering the placement of my oil
>cooler. I plan to hang it on the firewall or engine mount and feed it
>via a SCAT off the back baffle. In looking at the "normal" location of
>mounting the cooler on the left side just behind cylinder #4, it seems to
>me that it would exacerbate any cooling problems here because it would
>allow some air to escape through the cooler that would otherwise go down
>behind #4 and cool the critical exhaust port area.
>
>I know the cooler won't fit on the RH side aft baffle, but since I'm not
>mounting it on the baffle I could take the air off the RH side if it made
>any difference in keeping the #4 CHT's more in line with the other jugs.
>
>Thanks as always,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D FWF stuff....
>
>
Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local high-speed
providers now. https://broadband.msn.com
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
Mine failed at 8 hours and again at 29 hours. I was told some motors had too
much grease in them and it was working its way up to the brush area and
contaminating it. I broke a brush the second time trying to clean it but Van's
gave me one to replace it. I've got another 10 hours on and so far so good.
Larry Gagnon RV6 N6LG 39 hrs
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Electric seat heat |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Guys, I'm just not understanding all this focus on heated seats. Seems to me
that they add cost and complexity when it's something you're only going to
use occasionally. I think a MUCH better solution is to choose any of the
products from Gerbings, namely their motorcycle products, and be done with
it. That way the vest, jacket, gloves, or seatpad can be used for other
things.
I would submit that you or your passengers would be much warmer wearing a
heated jacket liner ($199, http://www.gerbing.com/pages/clothing/jl.html)
than merely sitting on a heated pad. If heated seats is what you want
Gerbings also offers those, called "heated stadium cusion".
Anyway, check www.gerbings.com.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, with 12v power socket in front and back for whatever electrical
appliance you want.
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: manual engine pre-oiler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Larry:
Well, that's an issue too, but no. I was thinking about a device
to pressurize the oil system before each and every engine start. That
is what the Oilamatic product I referred to is intended to do.
Larry Bowen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
>You are talking of pre-oiling before first engine start? Is it not
>satisfactory to take out a plug from each cylinder and spin the engine
>until the oil pressure builds?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry@BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Fairings, which ones |
--> RV-List message posted by: Imfairings@aol.com
Jeff, your name sure is familiar. We may have done business before. My
intersection fairings are based on Van's pressure recovery wheel pants and gear
leg fairings. For a look at my wed site see www.fairings-etc.com
Bob
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: RE: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: to bother or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Lundin <rlundin46@yahoo.com>
>>
>>
>> If you can afford a CS prop put one on. The plane does
>> everything better. Climbs better, cruises better,
>> slows down better. Anyone who's flown both types of
>> props, knows a CS is better.
>> Rick
>
>Everything better? Did you read the Van's test?
>
>Do not archive
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 with Sensenich 72FM8 that is faster than a constant speed and a lot
>cheaper.
>
Ohhhh...I've been trying to stay out of this...
Did you see what Van's had to do to get full throttle at 8K with the Sensenich?
Pitch it up to 90".....
I had a Sensenich on my RV-6 for 200hrs. Granted it was an 83", but
that's what Van's recommended back when the prop came on the market.
I couldn't get full throttle without overspeeding the 2700 limit
until 13K in level flight. I'd bet a 90" prop would be a DOG on
takeoff and climb out.
I don't think Vans did an valid comparison without including Max ROC numbers.
You'd have to pry my COLD DEAD FINGERS from my Hartzell to take it
away from me....(unless I had a Whirlwind to replace it with ;-)
No offense Larry, but I agree with Rick...the CS prop does EVERYTHING
better (well...maybe it costs less and is cheaper to overhaul...but
THAT's it! :-)
Laird RV-6 850 hrs
SoCal
PS Check the archives on some of my past posts on the swap.
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: manual engine pre-oiler |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
In a message dated 1/4/04 11:41:15 PM, sarg314@earthlink.net writes:
<< --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Larry:
Well, that's an issue too, but no. I was thinking about a device
to pressurize the oil system before each and every engine start. That
is what the Oilamatic product I referred to is intended to do.
>>
I used an Accusump unit many years ago in a race car. It was an aluminum
cylinder with a valve on the end plumbed into the oil system. You could fill it
with oil (Quart) and pressurize the cylinder with air so that on initial start
up you would have oil flowing before the engine ever turned over, After the
engine was running the oil pressure would repressurize the cylinder and before
you shut down the engine you could shut off the valve to have it available
later for restarting. Probably available at a speed shop. Worked great on the
race car but I don't know if it's necessary on our engines? Mine gets
pressure instantly on start up.
Larry
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm curious...among those who have experienced flap motor failure, how many
times did you extend/retract your flaps before the first failure occurred?
Estimate if possible.
I haven't flown yet, but I've had my flaps up/down easily 50-100 times. Is
it the in-flight air load on the flaps that plays a part, do you think?
Is there a direction in which they always fail, like they always fail when
trying to extend flaps?
Just curious...sorry to bombard everybody with questions,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Larygagnon@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap motor failure
> --> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
>
> Mine failed at 8 hours and again at 29 hours. I was told some motors had
too
> much grease in them and it was working its way up to the brush area and
> contaminating it. I broke a brush the second time trying to clean it but
Van's
> gave me one to replace it. I've got another 10 hours on and so far so
good.
>
> Larry Gagnon RV6 N6LG 39 hrs
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: F-794A lower horizontal stabilizer/fuselage fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
One should be able to take off the fibreglass fairing from the top of the
stab and inspect that way. There should be ample access to see everything of
importance looking from the top with a mirror, etc.
Sounds like a slick idea to me - but too late now for my -6A.
Jim Oke
RV-6A C-GKGZ
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: F-794A lower horizontal stabilizer/fuselage
fairing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: RAMTHAXTON@aol.comAre there other ways to
> attach this fairing to the fuselage. The plans call for countersinking the
> longeron for # 6 screws and dimpling the fairing. Lookslike the
countersink
> will go almost all the way thru longeron which would leave little room for
> the 6/32 threads.Bob Thaxton, RV-7QB, Indiana
> >
> >
> > I thought there had to be a better way and my solution was to simply
bond
> the fairings in place with good ol proseal. This provides the slickest
> means possible of attaching the fairings,
>
> I don't understand how you inspect that area. Rebond every annual?
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://n5lp.net
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | light weight propellers |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
I had an interesting conversation with an engineer at Lycoming recently about
the non-counterweighted crankshaft Lycoming O-360 engine.
According to the Lycoming engineer, a light weight propeller can cause the
harmonic vibrations of the engine to be reduced into the normal RPM operating
range of the engine.
What was interesting was that the problems occur in the accessory case gears
in the engine. The engineer said that the harmonic in the accessory case
gears can cause the magneto(s) to fail and the fuel pump to fail.
The Lycoming engineer said that Hartzell, Sensenich and MT Propellers have
been approved by Lycoming. Therefore, they do not have this harmonic problem in
the normal RPM operating range.
The engineer also said that they normally test the manufactures propeller on
their engine when one of the Lycoming distributors is planning to sell that
propeller with their Lycoming engine.
The Lycoming engineer I talked to did not know what an Aerocomposite or
Whirlwind propeller was. He indicated that they had not been tested by Lycoming.
The conversation trigger two items for me.
1.) A previous posting by someone with a fixed pitch propeller on a Lyc. 360
who had magneto failures and had installed an electronic ignition. It would
be worthwhile for this person to call Lycoming and have a talk with them,
himself.
2.) I briefly flew my RV-3 with the Lycoming O-290 with an underpitched fixed
pitch propeller at 3200 RPM. I say briefly because the wet compass started
rotating at about 60 RPM. Now I know where the high frequency vibration
originated. The accessory case gears. Very bad.
Jim Ayers
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance 1st flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
My insurance wanted me wrote off (Mike Seger) and 10 hours in type. I had the
RV6A insured at $4200. and a million $. First year was $1100. I have a
commercial & instrument( not used in 30 years)
I just renewed. One year of flight,195 hours. Premium went down to $950. Was
told if I Ifly 120 to 150 hours this year it will go down 5% more.
If you insure the airplane for to little, it could be totaled in small
accident, you will need to decide how much you want put on it.
I have friends that fly with out insurance and friends with auto engines in
there RV6A that cant find insurace so fly without.
do not archive
Jerry Wilken
Albnay Oregon
N699WP
Message 45
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| Subject: | Cracked AN470AD4 rivets when using a pneumatic squeezer. |
tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
1 thought probably far off but, from the roughness of the face you may want
to polish your bucking bars.
Noel
RV-10
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
Subject: RV-List: Cracked AN470AD4 rivets when using a pneumatic
squeezer. tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
Listers,
While doing some riveting on my -10 rudder I've run in to a situation that
I've not seen before. I'm seeing a crack on the side of the shop head of
many of my AN470AD4-x rivets. Please see the photo at
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a/SqueezedAN470AD4-5.jpg .
The situation:
- This rivet is from the rudder spar web.
- It's an AN470AD4-5
- It was squeezed using a pneumatic rivet squeezer with a 3" yoke.
-- The flat die used to form the shop head was ground so as to be at a
slight angle (vs perfectly perpendicular to the shop head). This
compensates for the "spring" of the 3" yoke when squeezing #4 rivets. -
The crack appears not to continue thru the center of the shop head
-- it APPEARS to only involve the outer layer of the shop head.
- There is no crack in the factory head.
- When I drive the rivets with my rivet gun I don't see this shop head
cracking phenomena. - I didn't see this phenomena while building my -6,
but I used only a hand squeezer and rivet gun on that plane.
- Is this shop head crack common when a pneumatic squeezer is used?
- Is it anything to worry about?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 600 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - 600 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
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