Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:06 AM - Re: FAB-360 Airbox RV6-A tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06 (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
2. 03:45 AM - Re: Electric seat heat (Aaron Villery)
3. 03:50 AM - Re: Flap motor failure (JSannizzar@aol.com)
4. 04:23 AM - Re: Flap motor failure-Now manual flaps (Dana Overall)
5. 05:08 AM - Al Haynes needs our help (kevin@mannon.org)
6. 05:08 AM - Al Haynes needs our help (kevin@mannon.org)
7. 05:18 AM - Re: Re: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: PropGuard (Charles Rowbotham)
8. 05:21 AM - Flap Motor Failure (RVEIGHTA@aol.com)
9. 05:29 AM - Re: Flap motor failure (Charles Rowbotham)
10. 05:34 AM - Electric Seat Heat (Ronnie Brown)
11. 06:01 AM - Re: Ground block (Charles Rowbotham)
12. 06:03 AM - Seat Heater sources (Tom Andersen)
13. 06:12 AM - Re: manual engine pre-oiler (Altoq)
14. 06:45 AM - Re: Electric seat heat (SportAV8R@aol.com)
15. 06:54 AM - Re: Insurance 1st flight (John Helms)
16. 06:59 AM - Re: Al Haynes needs our help (Darwin N. Barrie)
17. 07:31 AM - Re: Al Haynes needs our help (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
18. 07:39 AM - Upper and lower Gearleg intersection fairings (Scott Brown)
19. 08:00 AM - Re: Flap motor failure (Denis Walsh)
20. 08:02 AM - Re: Flap motor failure (Dave Bristol)
21. 08:31 AM - Re: Flap motor failure-Now manual flaps (Greg Young)
22. 08:31 AM - WhirlWind 151 Prop - was light weight propellers (Ken Brooks)
23. 08:32 AM - Re: Re: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: to bother or not (Garry Legare)
24. 08:33 AM - FOR SALE : RV-6 / 6a kit (Kuebler, Scott)
25. 08:37 AM - Re: Flap motor failure (Garry Legare)
26. 08:45 AM - Re: Al Haynes needs our help (Lyle Peterson)
27. 08:46 AM - Re: Al Haynes needs our help (Lyle Peterson)
28. 09:15 AM - >Re:heated seat maker (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
29. 09:36 AM - Re: >Re:heated seat maker (lucky macy)
30. 09:36 AM - Al Haynes Daughter (Glenn Brasch)
31. 09:55 AM - Re: Upper and lower Gearleg intersection fairings (Charles Rowbotham)
32. 09:55 AM - Flap Motor Failure (JDaniel343@aol.com)
33. 10:19 AM - Steve Davis and fuel cap engraving (Dan Checkoway)
34. 11:21 AM - Re: Flap motor failure (JusCash@aol.com)
35. 11:29 AM - Carb Vs Fuel Injection (JusCash@aol.com)
36. 11:34 AM - Re: Flap motor failure (Alex Peterson)
37. 11:43 AM - Re: Flap motor failure-Now manual flaps (Mickey Coggins)
38. 11:58 AM - Re: Flap motor failure-Now manual flaps (Bruce Gray)
39. 11:59 AM - Electric vs manual (JOHN STARN)
40. 12:37 PM - Re: Flap motor failure-Now manual flaps (Dana Overall)
41. 12:38 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (Colt Seavers)
42. 01:12 PM - prop bushings (jack eckdahl)
43. 01:38 PM - Flap Motor Failure (more) (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
44. 01:49 PM - prop bushings (jack eckdahl)
45. 01:59 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (JusCash@aol.com)
46. 02:04 PM - Re: manual engine pre-oiler ()
47. 02:09 PM - Re: manual engine pre-oiler ()
48. 02:31 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (C. Rabaut)
49. 02:58 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (JusCash@aol.com)
50. 03:04 PM - Greenlee Kwik-Cycle Dies ()
51. 03:25 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (C. Rabaut)
52. 03:55 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (Dan Checkoway)
53. 03:56 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (Scott Bilinski)
54. 04:12 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (Scott Bilinski)
55. 04:17 PM - Re: trip to honduras (Mike Robertson)
56. 04:37 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (Alex Peterson)
57. 04:48 PM - I made a donation & I'm registering as a Marrow donor (C. Rabaut)
58. 04:56 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (C. Rabaut)
59. 05:15 PM - Push Pull Cable (Edward W. O Connor)
60. 05:26 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (Stein Bruch)
61. 05:40 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (Dan Checkoway)
62. 05:44 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (PittsS1@aol.com)
63. 06:09 PM - Slick magneto mounting clamp (LarryRobertHelming)
64. 06:20 PM - Re: manual engine pre-oiler (Richard Dudley)
65. 06:34 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (Dan Checkoway)
66. 06:40 PM - Re: Push Pull Cable (Alex Peterson)
67. 06:48 PM - Re: manual engine pre-oiler (Kai Schumann)
68. 09:25 PM - Spacers for Bendix System (Eustace Bowhay)
69. 10:40 PM - Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection (Terry Watson)
70. 11:35 PM - Re: light weight propellers (Doug Gray)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: FAB-360 Airbox RV6-A tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Thanks for the help on this Tim. Several builders have done the same thing
as it appears to be a common problem not covered in the instructions.
How far away from the nose gear did you find worked? Depth of the
notch?
Thanks, Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
<owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: FAB-360 Airbox RV6-A tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
>
>
> > List: I am running into a clearance problem with the back of my
> > airbox being to close to the nose gear? What have other builders done?
> > In any case it appears I will need to modify the air filter base to
> > fit around the drain in my carburetor......correct?
> > I have a 0360-A1A and any help would be greatly
> > appreciated.
> > Tom in Ohio
> >
>
> I had the same problem. Had to cut a pretty good sized notch out of the
> bottom rear edge of the FAB to clear the nose gear. Then I had to enlarge
> the notch (twice) to keep the nose gear when the gear from hitting the
FAB
> when the nose gear flexes during operation.
>
> Tim
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 600 hrs
> RV-10 #40059 under construction
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Electric seat heat |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aaron Villery" <scudrunr1@hotmail.com>
Maybe you haven't been in a car with leather seats in the winter. Seats can
get very cold during the winter months especially if they are leather.
Because the seat warms before the engine you rely on the seats to keep you
warm until the engine temp gets into operating range. Some of us are just
addicted to it.
Aaron Villery
F1 Rocket SN138
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric seat heat
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>
> Guys, I'm just not understanding all this focus on heated seats. Seems to
me
> that they add cost and complexity when it's something you're only going to
> use occasionally. I think a MUCH better solution is to choose any of the
> products from Gerbings, namely their motorcycle products, and be done with
> it. That way the vest, jacket, gloves, or seatpad can be used for other
> things.
>
> I would submit that you or your passengers would be much warmer wearing a
> heated jacket liner ($199, http://www.gerbing.com/pages/clothing/jl.html)
> than merely sitting on a heated pad. If heated seats is what you want
> Gerbings also offers those, called "heated stadium cusion".
>
> Anyway, check www.gerbings.com.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, with 12v power socket in front and back for whatever electrical
> appliance you want.
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: JSannizzar@aol.com
Dan,
Sounds like you may be questioning your motor before it ever leaves the
ground. I am in the planning stages right now. Getting tools and shop ready for
emp
kit (-7) as we type.
I like Piper style flaps. With all this talk of flap motor failure, I have
been thinking of going "the other way".
Question: Would you reconsider electric flaps in lieu of manual if you had to
do it all over again?
John Sannizzaro, KPYM
N357JS
Planning stages
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure-Now manual flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
John, electric flaps are now standard on the kits. In thinking about it
though, the geometry of the stock flap attach weldment just may offer an
alternative to those wanting to go manual. If you wanted to use a center
actuator arm you would have to redesign the flap motor cover, side covers
and maybe the aft vertical support. You spend some time, anyway,
fabricating these parts. Once again, you may spend a little more time than
might think fabricating the required elements of the system within the
existing structure rather than from a black sheet of paper.
If you want some pics of what the 7 supports and tunnel covers look like in
this area, let me know off list and I'll post a couple.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Expand your wine savvy and get some great new recipes at MSN Wine.
http://wine.msn.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Al Haynes needs our help |
--> RV-List message posted by: kevin@mannon.org
Al Haynes, who was the Captain of United flight 232, has had an impact on
many of us in aviation. Now, his daughter needs our help. Here is a link
to the story on ANN:
http://www.aero-news.net/news/commair.cfm?ContentBlockID=ba9cc480-07c7-4bcb-
916d-785e7b56d347&Dynamic=1
For those who don't know about this flight or Capt. Haynes, here are a
couple of links:
http://www.avweb.com/news/profiles/182969-1.html
http://www.panix.com/~jac/aviation/haynes.html
Message 6
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| Subject: | Al Haynes needs our help |
--> RV-List message posted by: kevin@mannon.org
Al Haynes, who was the Captain of United flight 232, has had an impact on
many of us in aviation. Now, his daughter needs our help. Here is a link
to the story on ANN:
http://www.aero-news.net/news/commair.cfm?ContentBlockID=ba9cc480-07c7-4bcb-
916d-785e7b56d347&Dynamic=1
For those who don't know about this flight or Capt. Haynes, here are a
couple of links:
http://www.avweb.com/news/profiles/182969-1.html
http://www.panix.com/~jac/aviation/haynes.html
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: PropGuard |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
All,
Don't forget to protect your prop investment - with Prop Guard. We still do
not have any nicks on our CS prop blades after 150 + hours.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: to bother or not
>Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 20:46:16 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Lundin <rlundin46@yahoo.com>
> >>
> >>
> >> If you can afford a CS prop put one on. The plane does
> >> everything better. Climbs better, cruises better,
> >> slows down better. Anyone who's flown both types of
> >> props, knows a CS is better.
> >> Rick
> >
> >Everything better? Did you read the Van's test?
> >
> >Do not archive
> >
> >Larry Pardue
> >Carlsbad, NM
> >
> >RV-6 with Sensenich 72FM8 that is faster than a constant speed and a lot
> >cheaper.
> >
>
>Ohhhh...I've been trying to stay out of this...
>
>Did you see what Van's had to do to get full throttle at 8K with the
>Sensenich?
>
>Pitch it up to 90".....
>
>I had a Sensenich on my RV-6 for 200hrs. Granted it was an 83", but
>that's what Van's recommended back when the prop came on the market.
>I couldn't get full throttle without overspeeding the 2700 limit
>until 13K in level flight. I'd bet a 90" prop would be a DOG on
>takeoff and climb out.
>
>I don't think Vans did an valid comparison without including Max ROC
>numbers.
>
>You'd have to pry my COLD DEAD FINGERS from my Hartzell to take it
>away from me....(unless I had a Whirlwind to replace it with ;-)
>
>No offense Larry, but I agree with Rick...the CS prop does EVERYTHING
>better (well...maybe it costs less and is cheaper to overhaul...but
>THAT's it! :-)
>
>Laird RV-6 850 hrs
>SoCal
>
>PS Check the archives on some of my past posts on the swap.
>
>
Enjoy a special introductory offer for dial-up Internet access limited
Message 8
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| Subject: | Flap Motor Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
In my case, at about 30 hours flying time, the flaps were intermittent. I
first noticed it one day when, after extending the flaps to half on base, I
clicked the switch for full flaps on final. Nothing happened. When I landed the
flaps worked perfectly. I removed the left side panel to check for any travel
obstructions and found none. I also checked the switch and all wiring from the
switch to the motor. Everything checked out ok, so I continued to fly. I also
continued to have problems, sometimes the flaps would not extend at all,
sometimes I could only get half flaps, and sometimes they worked perfectly.
Now, at 54 hours, I lined up on downwind and as I turned to base I clicked
the switch for half flaps and got nothing. They just refused to move. My guess
is that one of the brush springs has popped loose again, like the last time.
Man, what I wouldn't give for manual flaps!
Walt Shipley
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
John,
While not addressed to us - I would like to provide our recommendation.
Go with the electric flags - they reduce your workload.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A - 230 hrs - KWST
>From: JSannizzar@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap motor failure
>Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 06:50:05 EST
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: JSannizzar@aol.com
>
>Dan,
>
>Sounds like you may be questioning your motor before it ever leaves the
>ground. I am in the planning stages right now. Getting tools and shop ready
>for emp
>kit (-7) as we type.
>
>I like Piper style flaps. With all this talk of flap motor failure, I have
>been thinking of going "the other way".
>
>Question: Would you reconsider electric flaps in lieu of manual if you had
>to
>do it all over again?
>
>John Sannizzaro, KPYM
>N357JS
>Planning stages
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Electric Seat Heat |
Another approach is a $35 12vdc electric blanket like:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
http://www.skilimited.com/xq/asp/clickpath./base_no.VE-240/str_base_no.VE-24
0,/header_title.Keyword+Search/page_name.search/keyword_results.asp/search_t
ype.blanket/ShowImages.yes/sq.0/cont.1/intPgNo.1/qx/product.htm
You only carry it when the weather is cold and you are carrying a passenger.
Otherwise, no changes to your wt/bal or system complexity.
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
How about - Bob Knockells - Aero Electric
>From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>, <rv-list@matronics.com>,
><rv7-list@matronics.com>, <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Ground block
>Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 23:25:02 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
>I was preparing to order a ground block from B&C and noticed they are out
>of stock till "late January." Anyone have another source for these?
>
>Darwin N. Barrie
>Chandler AZ
>
>
Expand your wine savvy and get some great new recipes at MSN Wine.
http://wine.msn.com
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Seat Heater sources |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Andersen" <tandersen@triad.rr.com>
Hi Gert,
Portable seat heaters are sold to snowmobilers to lay on their snowmobile seats
and plug into 12v power outlets. I'm going to say check with JC Whitney or
snowmobile accessory stores on the net. I've seen units for around $100. I found
one for motorcycles at $159.
http://quietridge.com/pics.html and for two seats http://quietridge.com/hotrider.html
I've disassembled the heated seats on my 99 Subaru Forester (to modify their feel)
and can say that the heating element is just a piece of felt with very fine
wires (probably Nichrome) threaded through the felt, and laid just underneath
the seat cover itself. For the cheapest heated seats, I'd say go to a junkyard
and look for Subaru's as lots of them came with the winter weather package.
Usually there were wiper de-icer grids on the windshield just under the wipers
that were the most visible part of the winter weather package. Also heated
mirrors were included. On the Forester the seat switches were in the center
console. If you could find one you could get the switches too.
Tom Andersen
Greensboro NC
Grumman Cheetah N22BA
Would like to buy RV-6A.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: manual engine pre-oiler |
--> RV-List message posted by: Altoq <altoq@direcway.com>
Here is a link you might want to consider
http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_turboiler.htm
John D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: manual engine pre-oiler
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> Larry:
> Well, that's an issue too, but no. I was thinking about a device
> to pressurize the oil system before each and every engine start. That
> is what the Oilamatic product I referred to is intended to do.
>
> Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
> >
> >You are talking of pre-oiling before first engine start? Is it not
> >satisfactory to take out a plug from each cylinder and spin the engine
> >until the oil pressure builds?
> >
> >-
> >Larry Bowen
> >Larry@BowenAero.com
> >http://BowenAero.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Electric seat heat |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
In a message dated 1/4/2004 11:38:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, randy@rv-8.com writes:
> Guys, I'm just not understanding all this focus on heated seats. Seems to me
> that they add cost and complexity when it's something
> you're only going to
> use occasionally.
Trust me; if you sit on TemperFoam seats, you will want and/or use heated seats
every cold day you enter the cockpit. I don't have heated seats (yet) and my
temperfoam seats are like a cement park bench until my butt warms them sufficiently.
Also, until I sink down a bit into the warmed cushions, I have to keep
my head cocked to one side a bit so I don't bump my LightSpeeds on the canopy.
You wouldn't think a 3 inch thick seat could be so much trouble, but they are
nice when they finally reach normal operating temperature :-)
-Bill
RV-6A
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance 1st flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
The VanGuard Program would also require a checkout (no specified number of
hours) from a CFI who has some RV time, but does cover first flight.
For your friends with Automobile engines (Chevy and the like) there aren't
any markets that will cover those right now. Certain Suburu FWF packages
are insurable thru the EAA's program (which is available thru any agent as
long as you are an EAA member... you don't have to call the EAA's 800 number
for the program... that merely sends you to one certain agency).
You are definetely correct about valuing your airplane correctly. It is
much more wise to value the airplane correctly, and if you want to lower
your insurance costs then take away coverages. For example, you could
remove the physical damage coverage while in flight. That normally would cut
your costs nearly in half, and you're not at risk of losing the plane as in
your example (valued too low, minor claim results in total loss of the
plane). The liability coverages are still in effect while in flight in that
scenario (called Ground not in motion coverage). You wouldn't be
indemnified for damage to the plane while it was taxiing or flying, but it
is still a more wise choice than valuating the plane too low.
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
NationAir Insurance Agency
Pleasure and Business Branch
Please note that any correspondence by email from you will not constitute
you having contacted NationAir. If you have urgent questions, need to bind
coverage, or need other service immediately please call our office toll free
at 877 475 5860 during normal business hours and speak to a representative
of NationAir.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WPAerial@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance 1st flight
--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
My insurance wanted me wrote off (Mike Seger) and 10 hours in type. I had
the
RV6A insured at $4200. and a million $. First year was $1100. I have a
commercial & instrument( not used in 30 years)
I just renewed. One year of flight,195 hours. Premium went down to $950. Was
told if I Ifly 120 to 150 hours this year it will go down 5% more.
If you insure the airplane for to little, it could be totaled in small
accident, you will need to decide how much you want put on it.
I have friends that fly with out insurance and friends with auto engines in
there RV6A that cant find insurace so fly without.
do not archive
Jerry Wilken
Albnay Oregon
N699WP
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Al Haynes needs our help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Many don't know this about Al Haynes but his other passion in life is Little
League Baseball. I too share that passion as a Little League Baseball
umpire. Each year we have a "road trip" to San Bernardino CA for the Western
Region LL tournament. One of the highlights is seeing Al Haynes there
volunteering for what ever he is needed for. He is one of the nicest people
you could ever meet.
Hopefully Little League will have a full staff today in their western
offices and I plan to see if they are doing anything toward a fund raiser.
This is truly a deserving cause. After, he is one of our own.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: <kevin@mannon.org>
Subject: RV-List: Al Haynes needs our help
> --> RV-List message posted by: kevin@mannon.org
>
> Al Haynes, who was the Captain of United flight 232, has had an impact on
> many of us in aviation. Now, his daughter needs our help. Here is a link
> to the story on ANN:
>
http://www.aero-news.net/news/commair.cfm?ContentBlockID=ba9cc480-07c7-4bcb-
> 916d-785e7b56d347&Dynamic=1
>
> For those who don't know about this flight or Capt. Haynes, here are a
> couple of links:
> http://www.avweb.com/news/profiles/182969-1.html
> http://www.panix.com/~jac/aviation/haynes.html
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Al Haynes needs our help |
01/05/2004 08:53:08 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
what is the story? When I click on the website I get an error message. What
is going on with Al?
Thanks
do not archive
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Upper and lower Gearleg intersection fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown@precisionjet.com>
Listers,
Where can I find RV4 upper and lower gearleg intersection fairings?
Scott
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
I suspect a supplier change or different vendor. My motor has several
thousand cycles with no problems. It was delivered around 1995 or 1996. I
never returned it for a swap as offered by Vans. I always use flaps for
landing and takeoff. 1300 hours and 2300 landings logged.
> From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 21:17:34 -0800
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap motor failure
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I'm curious...among those who have experienced flap motor failure, how many
> times did you extend/retract your flaps before the first failure occurred?
> Estimate if possible.
>
> I haven't flown yet, but I've had my flaps up/down easily 50-100 times. Is
> it the in-flight air load on the flaps that plays a part, do you think?
>
> Is there a direction in which they always fail, like they always fail when
> trying to extend flaps?
>
> Just curious...sorry to bombard everybody with questions,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Larygagnon@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap motor failure
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
>>
>> Mine failed at 8 hours and again at 29 hours. I was told some motors had
> too
>> much grease in them and it was working its way up to the brush area and
>> contaminating it. I broke a brush the second time trying to clean it but
> Van's
>> gave me one to replace it. I've got another 10 hours on and so far so
> good.
>>
>> Larry Gagnon RV6 N6LG 39 hrs
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
I have to disagree. Electric flaps will INCREASE the workload. Once you
push the switch you have to then hold it for some time and then look an
an indicator (or out the side window) to see where they are. With manual
you just pull the handle and you know exactly where the flaps are set
without ever taking your eyes off your flying. On short final I've got
more important things to do.
And of course I'll never have a bad motor.
Dave
>Go with the electric flags - they reduce your workload.
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Flap motor failure-Now manual flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Ahh, you new kids with the snap together kits are forgetting your roots;-)
If you really want to go manual, just order the RV-6/A parts. Van's will
still supply them. The electric vs manual flap debate used to flare up as
often as tip-up vs slider. You might still find someone who wants to convert
to electric that will swap parts.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> John, electric flaps are now standard on the kits. In thinking about it
> though, the geometry of the stock flap attach weldment just may offer an
> alternative to those wanting to go manual. If you wanted to use a center
> actuator arm you would have to redesign the flap motor cover, side covers
> and maybe the aft vertical support. You spend some time, anyway,
> fabricating these parts. Once again, you may spend a little more
> time than
> might think fabricating the required elements of the system within the
> existing structure rather than from a black sheet of paper.
>
> If you want some pics of what the 7 supports and tunnel covers
> look like in
> this area, let me know off list and I'll post a couple.
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | WhirlWind 151 Prop - was light weight propellers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
In my recent post about my WhirlWind 151-series 3-blade prop, I forgot to
mention that in accordance with a strong recommendation from Bart Lalonde at
AeroSport Power, my I0-360-B1B does have the counterbalanced crank.
As Jim Ayers posted concerns recently about light weight propellers and
accessory case vibration issues, I, too, was concerned about the same and
therefore decided to shell out the extra $2500 for the counterbalanced crank
(OUCH!). I think that should take care of the problem. For people on a
tighter budget, you can't beat the (I)O-360-A1A with the Hartzell 2-blade.
Just my opinion.
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: [VAF Mailing List] CS prop: to bother or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: Garry Legare <versadek@earthlink.net>
I second Laird's observation, except you would have to pry my Whirlwind 151.
Casper
Laird Owens wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>
>
>
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Lundin <rlundin46@yahoo.com>
>>>
>>>
>>> If you can afford a CS prop put one on. The plane does
>>> everything better. Climbs better, cruises better,
>>> slows down better. Anyone who's flown both types of
>>> props, knows a CS is better.
>>> Rick
>>>
>>>
>>Everything better? Did you read the Van's test?
>>
>>Do not archive
>>
>>Larry Pardue
>>Carlsbad, NM
>>
>>RV-6 with Sensenich 72FM8 that is faster than a constant speed and a lot
>>cheaper.
>>
>>
>>
>
>Ohhhh...I've been trying to stay out of this...
>
>Did you see what Van's had to do to get full throttle at 8K with the Sensenich?
>
>Pitch it up to 90".....
>
>I had a Sensenich on my RV-6 for 200hrs. Granted it was an 83", but
>that's what Van's recommended back when the prop came on the market.
>I couldn't get full throttle without overspeeding the 2700 limit
>until 13K in level flight. I'd bet a 90" prop would be a DOG on
>takeoff and climb out.
>
>I don't think Vans did an valid comparison without including Max ROC numbers.
>
>You'd have to pry my COLD DEAD FINGERS from my Hartzell to take it
>away from me....(unless I had a Whirlwind to replace it with ;-)
>
>No offense Larry, but I agree with Rick...the CS prop does EVERYTHING
>better (well...maybe it costs less and is cheaper to overhaul...but
>THAT's it! :-)
>
>Laird RV-6 850 hrs
>SoCal
>
>PS Check the archives on some of my past posts on the swap.
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | FOR SALE : RV-6 / 6a kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kuebler, Scott" <skuebler@CANNONDESIGN.COM>
RV-6 / 6a kit for sale.
Empennage: Complete except for fiberglass tips. Includes electric elevator trim
kit. All parts are alodined and primed with Marhyde primer.
Wings & Phlogiston Spar: Both skeletons assembled. All skins ready for final
riveting. Both tanks are complete and sealed. Flaps and ailerons complete, but
not fitted. Includes electric aileron trim kit. All parts are alodined and
primed with Deft epoxy primer (Mil-P-23377G).
Both kits are the pre-punched versions purchased in 1997 & 1998 by myself. Construction
is excellent. Preview plans and Orndorff videos are included for both
kits.
Price: $4750
If all items were purchased separately the price would be more than $6500 for unassembled
kits. The tools are not for sale; I will be keeping them to guarantee
that I will build another RV in the near future!
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
716-695-1987 home
716-510-0318 cell
skuebler@cannondesign.com
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Garry Legare <versadek@earthlink.net>
Dan, for your own piece of mind you could just take it apart and look
for grease at the armature end. It's fairly easy just take your time and
use a piece of safety wire to hold the brushes in place. I think the
problem relates to an overzealous use of grease when originally assembled.
Casper
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I'm curious...among those who have experienced flap motor failure, how many
>times did you extend/retract your flaps before the first failure occurred?
>Estimate if possible.
>
>I haven't flown yet, but I've had my flaps up/down easily 50-100 times. Is
>it the in-flight air load on the flaps that plays a part, do you think?
>
>Is there a direction in which they always fail, like they always fail when
>trying to extend flaps?
>
>Just curious...sorry to bombard everybody with questions,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Larygagnon@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap motor failure
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
>>
>>Mine failed at 8 hours and again at 29 hours. I was told some motors had
>>
>>
>too
>
>
>>much grease in them and it was working its way up to the brush area and
>>contaminating it. I broke a brush the second time trying to clean it but
>>
>>
>Van's
>
>
>>gave me one to replace it. I've got another 10 hours on and so far so
>>
>>
>good.
>
>
>>Larry Gagnon RV6 N6LG 39 hrs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Al Haynes needs our help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap@access4less.net>
Go to http://www.aero-news.net/ and go down about two thirds of the
page. Find 'Al Haynes, Back to the Well". That's where I had to go to
find the article. It is about his daughter who has aplastic anemia and
needs a bone marrow transplant.
Lyle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Al Haynes needs our help
--> RV-List message posted by:
--> glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
what is the story? When I click on the website I get an error message.
What is going on with Al?
Thanks
do not archive
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Al Haynes needs our help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap@access4less.net>
Go to http://www.aero-news.net/ and go down about two thirds of the
page. Find 'Al Haynes, Back to the Well". That's where I had to go to
find the article. It is about his daughter who has aplastic anemia and
needs a bone marrow transplant.
Lyle
Did I 'Reply' or Reply to all' last time? Never mind, don't answer
that.
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Al Haynes needs our help
--> RV-List message posted by:
--> glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
what is the story? When I click on the website I get an error message.
What is going on with Al?
Thanks
do not archive
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: >Re:heated seat maker |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
In the archives I found :
http://www.smarthome.com/9290.html
for $30.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: >Re:heated seat maker |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Thanks dude! I just ordered one for my leather seated car. I think this
could be modified to fit under the seat cushion cover on the RVs prior to
sewing them up. Now that Van's let's you order your own foam, I could see
customizing the installation to include these permanently if so desired or
remain completely removable as they currently are.
lucky
do not archive
>From: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: >Re:heated seat maker
>Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 12:15:17 EST
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
>In the archives I found :
>
>http://www.smarthome.com/9290.html
>
>for $30.
>
>
>Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
>RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
>Charleston, Arkansas
>"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Al Haynes Daughter |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
http://www.transplants.org/FMPro
Here is a direct link to the transplant site, and a way to also make a donation
on line.
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Upper and lower Gearleg intersection fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Scott,
Try Team rocket
Chuck
>From: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown@precisionjet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Upper and lower Gearleg intersection fairings
>Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 10:25:20 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown@precisionjet.com>
>
>
>Listers,
>
>Where can I find RV4 upper and lower gearleg intersection fairings?
>
>Scott
>
>
Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work and
yourself. http://special.msn.com/msnbc/workingmom.armx
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Flap Motor Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
Mine first acted up at about 50 hours. I looked things over but could not find
any faults. continued to fly till the 90 hour mark. I did experience intermittent
problems. A good hit on the flap mount usually would fix the problem.
At 90 Hours I took the motor apart. It was fairly dirty, don't remember finding
grease. I cleaned the armature and brushes, reassembled and haven't had anymore
problems in the last 100 hours.
I would still go with elec. flaps again just to gain the room.
John Danielson
RV-6
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Steve Davis and fuel cap engraving |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Is Steve Davis monitoring this list? If not, is there any way to get in
touch with him other than email to panelcut@aol.com?
I need to get my RV-7 fuel caps engraved and haven't been able to reach
Steve.
Any other decent options out there these days?
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
I haven't noticed any additional workload when deploying the flaps. I hold
the switch down and count to 5 for half flaps and to 10 for full flaps. A
glance at marks on the end of the aileron are all that is needed to verify the
position. 85hrs and no problems with the motor.
Cash Copeland
RV6 N46FC
Hayward, Ca
In a message dated 1/5/2004 8:04:16 AM Pacific Standard Time, bj034@lafn.org
writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
I have to disagree. Electric flaps will INCREASE the workload. Once you
push the switch you have to then hold it for some time and then look an
an indicator (or out the side window) to see where they are. With manual
you just pull the handle and you know exactly where the flaps are set
without ever taking your eyes off your flying. On short final I've got
more important things to do.
And of course I'll never have a bad motor.
Dave
>Go with the electric flags - they reduce your workload.
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
I have ordered a new 360 engine from Aero Sport in Canada. I have to make a
decision whether to use a carb or the AFP fuel injection. I am looking for
information and opinions about the benefits of AFP fuel injection over the
standard carburetor. For those of you that converted from a carb to fuel injection
was there any noticeable increase in performance? Were there any major
difficulties converting the existing fuel system? Can the carb FAB assy. be used
on
the F.I. unit? If not, does the F.I. FAB line up with inlet on the cowl?
I have a really strong O-360 A1D with about 500hrs since OH powering the
airplane now. This engine will be for sale after the new one is installed.
Cash Copeland
RV6 N46FC 85hrs
Hayward, Ca
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Flap motor failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> I have to disagree. Electric flaps will INCREASE the
> workload. Once you
> push the switch you have to then hold it for some time and
> then look an
> an indicator (or out the side window) to see where they are.
It depends how one's plane is designed. I put the flap switch where I
can access it without removing my hand from the throttle. Also, I put
in full flaps when on downwind. The only time I glance out the window
is on takeoff climbs, to insure the flaps have come completely up. I
really would not agree about the increased workload. The only partial
flap position is for takeoffs.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 425 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Flap motor failure-Now manual flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Were manual flaps ever available on the RV8? I love the
electric trim on my club's Piper, and I don't have any
trouble with the manual flaps, but I can't quite see
where the lever would go in an RV8 cockpit.
Mickey
>Ahh, you new kids with the snap together kits are forgetting your roots;-)
>If you really want to go manual, just order the RV-6/A parts. Van's will
>still supply them. The electric vs manual flap debate used to flare up as
>often as tip-up vs slider. You might still find someone who wants to convert
>to electric that will swap parts.
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Flap motor failure-Now manual flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Test reply
Bruce
www.glasair.org
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Electric vs manual |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Dang, here we go again on the "Johnson Bar" debate. I voted years ago for
the Cessna flap and the Mooney gear handles. (HRII N561FS has electric
flaps) KABONG 8*) (GBA) Do Not Archive (P.S.: We don't wait till short
final to make such adjustments)
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap motor failure
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
> I have to disagree. Electric flaps will INCREASE the workload. Once you
Message 40
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| Subject: | Flap motor failure-Now manual flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>Ahh, you new kids with the snap together kits are forgetting your roots;-)
>If you really want to go manual, just order the RV-6/A parts. Van's will
>still supply them. The electric vs manual flap debate used to flare up as
>often as tip-up vs slider.
I like that analogy:-) Hey, I resemble that snap together comment.
Absolutely Do Not Archive !!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Enjoy a special introductory offer for dial-up Internet access limited
Message 41
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| Subject: | Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Colt Seavers" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Cash,
Why are you putting in the new motor 1500 hrs before tbo?
Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 finishing
>From: JusCash@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Carb Vs Fuel Injection
>Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 14:29:39 EST
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
>
>I have ordered a new 360 engine from Aero Sport in Canada. I have to make
>a
>decision whether to use a carb or the AFP fuel injection. I am looking for
>information and opinions about the benefits of AFP fuel injection over the
>standard carburetor. For those of you that converted from a carb to fuel
>injection
>was there any noticeable increase in performance? Were there any major
>difficulties converting the existing fuel system? Can the carb FAB assy.
>be used on
>the F.I. unit? If not, does the F.I. FAB line up with inlet on the cowl?
>I have a really strong O-360 A1D with about 500hrs since OH powering the
>airplane now. This engine will be for sale after the new one is installed.
>
>Cash Copeland
>RV6 N46FC 85hrs
>Hayward, Ca
>
>
Expand your wine savvy and get some great new recipes at MSN Wine.
http://wine.msn.com
Message 42
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tests=MSGID_FROM_MTA_HEADER
--> RV-List message posted by: "jack eckdahl" <eckdahl@dellmail.com>
I have a new Sensenich fixed pitch prop for my RV9A. I also received the prop extension
that is included in the prop installation. There are 6 prop bushings
on the engine prop flange. On my engine the bushings appear to be installed in
various sizes. My question is this: Should all the bushings that came with
the engine be the same length? Two of them are almost flush with the engine
prop flange, the other 4 protrude into the back of the prop extension.
If you have installed the sensenich fixed pitch prop and are familar with this
set up I would appreciate any information that you may be able to provide. Jack
#90508
--
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Flap Motor Failure (more) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Listers...
I'd like to add a bit of info to my original posting and answer some of the
questions that came up. We bought our RV6a with about 85 hrs on it, so don't
know if the flap problem happened before that. In the next 50 hrs, we had two
failures 30 hrs apart. Both times the cause was gunk between the brushes and
commutator, preventing contact. Once cleaned, worked perfectly, so had nothing
to
do with air loads, rubbing on cover sides, etc. Question is, where did the
goop come from? The factory engineer at www.MotionSystem.com said this:
<<Jerry,
We have not experienced this problem before. We do not have a fix for it,
other than what you are currently doing. It is possible that grease from the
gearbox is breaking down and dripping into the motor. If this is happening it
could be the cause of your problem. If you can seal the top of the motor with
tape or silicone, it may prevent this problem.
Sincerely,
Brian Carton
Applications Engineer>>
Someone else on the list mentioned possible oil from the gearbox, but ours
had no evidence of any on the motor housing or armature where it would have had
to run down to the brushes. It looks to me more like copper residue from the
brushes. I was very careful to solder wires back together last two times, but
am thinking of converting to fast-on terms... :) Would speed up the repair
process a lot...
I notice the the debate of Elec vs. manual flaps has been reignited, so might
as well toss in my .02. I would not mind a bit having manual even if no probs
with the motor. About the only redeeming merit I see in electric is that it's
"cool" to control them that way. Manuals can be put up or down quicker, never
have to fuss with a bad motor, never have to look out the side or do a
"count". How about on a go-around? I find it delaying and distracting to raise
electric flaps in the case of a botched landing. When I flew with Mike Seager,
he
raised the flaps on the touch and goes, for safety and convenience. Maybe I'll
call Van's and see what a manual kit would cost.
Jerry Cochran
In cold & wintry Oregon
btw... At a gas station today, 18f outside guy just moved here from MN
complaining about weather... "I moved here to get away from this S___!!!
Message 44
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tests=MSGID_FROM_MTA_HEADER
--> RV-List message posted by: "jack eckdahl" <eckdahl@dellmail.com>
Please disregard my previous post regarding different sized prop bushings. I found
the answer (I think). It is Lycoming Service Instruction 1098G. And as many
of you probably already know the engine does come with different sized bushings.
Bushing size also depends on the thickness of the flange. Jack #90508.
--
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
I had planed to install one of Aero Sports all along. The Superior XP-360
was coming out. It sounded like a better choice. A brand new engine cheaper
than a new Lycoming from Vans. Aero Sport now supplies this engine cheaper than
Superior. The engine on the airplane came off a Mooney that was upgraded to
an angle valve IO-360. I installed this engine to test fly the airplane
without having to worry about breaking in a new engine. Plus it is certified so
I
got a 25hr test period. Since I had already put the money aside for a new
engine I decided go for it. I really hate to take the airplane out of service
to
do the engine swap. Thats why I waited for winter. I am concerned about the
time it will take to modify the fuel system for fuel injection and is it
really beneficial. I have also opted for the Lightspeed electronic ignition in
place of the right mag. More work on the electrical system.
Cash Copeland
RV6 N46FC
Hayward, Ca
Do not archive
In a message dated 1/5/2004 12:41:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv7maker@hotmail.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Colt Seavers" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Cash,
Why are you putting in the new motor 1500 hrs before tbo?
Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 finishing
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: manual engine pre-oiler |
--> RV-List message posted by: <ptjohn@comcast.net>
Richard
The pump is sold for use in spraying cleaner on a deck. I got mine at Home Depot,
but you can get them at any home improvement store. I can't recall the exact
price, but it's certainly not over $45 or so.
On an O-235, just remove the set screw with a hex wrench (it's at the front of
the engine just to the left of center). In the case of my particular pump,
when you remove the sprayer head from the plastic wand, the wand will screw directly
into the pre-oil orifice. Again, depending on the model of pump and the
engine being pre-oiled, you may have to do a little modification to get it to
fit.
After you have put the oil in the pump, the pressure is built up by pumping.
Then set the pump on top of the engine (to help the flow), tape or clamp down
the trigger and you're spraying oil into the top of the engine where it can
drain throughout the case down to the sump.
Hope that helps. Next time I'm up at the airport I'll take a pic of it and post
it. It's very simple.
Pete
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: manual engine pre-oiler |
--> RV-List message posted by: <ptjohn@comcast.net>
Then the process I'm talking about wouldn't be what you're looking for. I'm talking
about pre-oiling an engine before it's first start.
Pete J.
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Cash,
I use to fly an O-320 D1A on my RV-4. I went with an IO-320 (from
Ly-Con) and am very happy with the change from carb to injection. Besides
no more sputter when negative & no more carb icing, the injection fuel
system wasn't that hard to install. Go with AFP for the pump & related
stuff, you won't be disappointed. They have quality/tested systems that
fit.
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <JusCash@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Vs Fuel Injection
> --> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
>
> I had planed to install one of Aero Sports all along. The Superior XP-360
> was coming out. It sounded like a better choice. A brand new engine
cheaper
> than a new Lycoming from Vans. Aero Sport now supplies this engine
cheaper than
> Superior. The engine on the airplane came off a Mooney that was upgraded
to
> an angle valve IO-360. I installed this engine to test fly the airplane
> without having to worry about breaking in a new engine. Plus it is
certified so I
> got a 25hr test period. Since I had already put the money aside for a new
> engine I decided go for it. I really hate to take the airplane out of
service to
> do the engine swap. Thats why I waited for winter. I am concerned about
the
> time it will take to modify the fuel system for fuel injection and is it
> really beneficial. I have also opted for the Lightspeed electronic
ignition in
> place of the right mag. More work on the electrical system.
>
> Cash Copeland
> RV6 N46FC
> Hayward, Ca
>
> Do not archive
>
> In a message dated 1/5/2004 12:41:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> rv7maker@hotmail.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Colt Seavers" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
>
> Cash,
>
> Why are you putting in the new motor 1500 hrs before tbo?
>
> Ross Schlotthauer
> RV-7 finishing
>
>
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
I talked to Bart at Aero Sport. He recommended the Bendix F.I. with the
Airflow Performance pump/filter assy. He said with the Bendix he provides a
spacer for the airbox so that it doesn't have to be modified. With Airflow
Performance a new airbox would have to be fabricated and the cowl inlet opening
might
have to be modified. We discussed at length the pros and cons of carbs and
F.I. I have decided to go with the carburetor for simplicity and cost. But I
still might change my mind.
Cash Copeland
RV6 N46FC
Hayward, Ca
In a message dated 1/5/2004 2:32:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
crabaut@coalinga.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Cash,
I use to fly an O-320 D1A on my RV-4. I went with an IO-320 (from
Ly-Con) and am very happy with the change from carb to injection. Besides
no more sputter when negative & no more carb icing, the injection fuel
system wasn't that hard to install. Go with AFP for the pump & related
stuff, you won't be disappointed. They have quality/tested systems that
fit.
Chuck
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Greenlee Kwik-Cycle Dies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
I am purchasing a die for my Greenlee crimpers for the insulated color electrical
terminals (red, yellow, blue). Greenlee sells one specific to "AMP Ultrafast
style" (45570) and one applicable for all others (45509).
Question is this...what is an "AMP Ultrafast" connector or do I care? Search of
the archives produced nothing.
Thanks,
Scott Haskins
RV7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Dang!!! I wished I'd have known about the spacer Bart has to make it fit.
I have the Bendix & AFP stuff and I made a mess outta' modifying the air
inlet opening. I ain't no good at that there glassin' stuff (or in this
case epoxy stuff). But I don't see how a spacer would've helped. I had to
lower the thing in order to fit in the filter box, a spacer would've made it
even lower.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <JusCash@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Vs Fuel Injection
> --> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
>
> I talked to Bart at Aero Sport. He recommended the Bendix F.I. with the
> Airflow Performance pump/filter assy. He said with the Bendix he provides
a
> spacer for the airbox so that it doesn't have to be modified. With
Airflow
> Performance a new airbox would have to be fabricated and the cowl inlet
opening might
> have to be modified. We discussed at length the pros and cons of carbs
and
> F.I. I have decided to go with the carburetor for simplicity and cost.
But I
> still might change my mind.
>
> Cash Copeland
> RV6 N46FC
> Hayward, Ca
>
> In a message dated 1/5/2004 2:32:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> crabaut@coalinga.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
> Cash,
>
> I use to fly an O-320 D1A on my RV-4. I went with an IO-320 (from
> Ly-Con) and am very happy with the change from carb to injection. Besides
> no more sputter when negative & no more carb icing, the injection fuel
> system wasn't that hard to install. Go with AFP for the pump & related
> stuff, you won't be disappointed. They have quality/tested systems that
> fit.
>
> Chuck
>
>
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Good call! Go with Bendix. The AFP injection definitely requires quite a
bit of modification both in terms of a custom airbox, and also in terms of
control cable routing.
The Bendix will be pretty much plug and play with Van's firewall forward
kit, which comes with the necessary cable bulkhead brackets, bellcrank, etc.
I went with AFP injection, and while my control cable setup is long since
done, I'm still working on the filtered airbox and ram air. It has added a
significant amount of time, effort, and money to this project. I have no
regrets...I'm just trying to be honest about how much more complex it
becomes when you stray from "stock."
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <JusCash@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Vs Fuel Injection
> --> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
>
> I talked to Bart at Aero Sport. He recommended the Bendix F.I. with the
> Airflow Performance pump/filter assy. He said with the Bendix he provides
a
> spacer for the airbox so that it doesn't have to be modified. With
Airflow
> Performance a new airbox would have to be fabricated and the cowl inlet
opening might
> have to be modified. We discussed at length the pros and cons of carbs
and
> F.I. I have decided to go with the carburetor for simplicity and cost.
But I
> still might change my mind.
>
> Cash Copeland
> RV6 N46FC
> Hayward, Ca
>
> In a message dated 1/5/2004 2:32:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> crabaut@coalinga.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
> Cash,
>
> I use to fly an O-320 D1A on my RV-4. I went with an IO-320 (from
> Ly-Con) and am very happy with the change from carb to injection. Besides
> no more sputter when negative & no more carb icing, the injection fuel
> system wasn't that hard to install. Go with AFP for the pump & related
> stuff, you won't be disappointed. They have quality/tested systems that
> fit.
>
> Chuck
>
>
Message 53
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|
| Subject: | Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
????? I have AFP injection and am not quite sure what your talking about. I
had no problems. The only problem I had with the FAB is moving it over so
it wont hit the cowl. I hear this is common so it really dose not have
anything to do with the injection. 2 other builders in the area had the
same problem with out injection.
At 03:27 PM 1/5/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
>Dang!!! I wished I'd have known about the spacer Bart has to make it fit.
>I have the Bendix & AFP stuff and I made a mess outta' modifying the air
>inlet opening. I ain't no good at that there glassin' stuff (or in this
>case epoxy stuff). But I don't see how a spacer would've helped. I had to
>lower the thing in order to fit in the filter box, a spacer would've made it
>even lower.
>
>do not archive
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <JusCash@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Vs Fuel Injection
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
>>
>> I talked to Bart at Aero Sport. He recommended the Bendix F.I. with the
>> Airflow Performance pump/filter assy. He said with the Bendix he provides
>a
>> spacer for the airbox so that it doesn't have to be modified. With
>Airflow
>> Performance a new airbox would have to be fabricated and the cowl inlet
>opening might
>> have to be modified. We discussed at length the pros and cons of carbs
>and
>> F.I. I have decided to go with the carburetor for simplicity and cost.
>But I
>> still might change my mind.
>>
>> Cash Copeland
>> RV6 N46FC
>> Hayward, Ca
>>
>> In a message dated 1/5/2004 2:32:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>> crabaut@coalinga.com writes:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>>
>> Cash,
>>
>> I use to fly an O-320 D1A on my RV-4. I went with an IO-320 (from
>> Ly-Con) and am very happy with the change from carb to injection. Besides
>> no more sputter when negative & no more carb icing, the injection fuel
>> system wasn't that hard to install. Go with AFP for the pump & related
>> stuff, you won't be disappointed. They have quality/tested systems that
>> fit.
>>
>> Chuck
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Dan, dont you have a IO-360 200HP? This makes a difference. Cant compare
air box set ups between 200HP forward facing and 180 HP vertical engines.
On my IO-360 180 HP Everything hooked right up.
By the way stopped by to see you Sunday. Guess I missed you, talked with
Dave a little.
At 03:56 PM 1/5/04 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Good call! Go with Bendix. The AFP injection definitely requires quite a
>bit of modification both in terms of a custom airbox, and also in terms of
>control cable routing.
>
>The Bendix will be pretty much plug and play with Van's firewall forward
>kit, which comes with the necessary cable bulkhead brackets, bellcrank, etc.
>
>I went with AFP injection, and while my control cable setup is long since
>done, I'm still working on the filtered airbox and ram air. It has added a
>significant amount of time, effort, and money to this project. I have no
>regrets...I'm just trying to be honest about how much more complex it
>becomes when you stray from "stock."
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <JusCash@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Vs Fuel Injection
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
>>
>> I talked to Bart at Aero Sport. He recommended the Bendix F.I. with the
>> Airflow Performance pump/filter assy. He said with the Bendix he provides
>a
>> spacer for the airbox so that it doesn't have to be modified. With
>Airflow
>> Performance a new airbox would have to be fabricated and the cowl inlet
>opening might
>> have to be modified. We discussed at length the pros and cons of carbs
>and
>> F.I. I have decided to go with the carburetor for simplicity and cost.
>But I
>> still might change my mind.
>>
>> Cash Copeland
>> RV6 N46FC
>> Hayward, Ca
>>
>> In a message dated 1/5/2004 2:32:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>> crabaut@coalinga.com writes:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>>
>> Cash,
>>
>> I use to fly an O-320 D1A on my RV-4. I went with an IO-320 (from
>> Ly-Con) and am very happy with the change from carb to injection. Besides
>> no more sputter when negative & no more carb icing, the injection fuel
>> system wasn't that hard to install. Go with AFP for the pump & related
>> stuff, you won't be disappointed. They have quality/tested systems that
>> fit.
>>
>> Chuck
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 55
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|
| Subject: | trip to honduras |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Tom,
If you are flying an experimental aircraft you MUST have written approval
from EACH country you intend to fly over or into prior to departing the US.
The only exception is the Bahamas. Check your aircraft's operating
limitations. It should say something along these lines.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "tom coggin" <motniggo@localnet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: trip to honduras
>Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 18:28:45 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "tom coggin" <motniggo@localnet.com>
>
>I am hoping to fly to the Bay Islands of Honduras by way of Key West,
>Florida then to Cancun, Mexico for fuel only and then to Roatan,
>Honduras.Does Honduras require prior written notice? Does Guatemala require
>prior written notice to overfly along the coast? Will Mexico require
>customs, insurance and fees just for a fuel stop? If so, I might have the
>range to make it to Belize City. I know I can get this info by joining
>(paying $39.00) Baja Bush Pilots. Thanks for the free info.
>
>Tom Coggin
>
>
Expand your wine savvy and get some great new recipes at MSN Wine.
http://wine.msn.com
Message 56
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|
| Subject: | Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> Good call! Go with Bendix. The AFP injection definitely
> requires quite a bit of modification both in terms of a
> custom airbox, and also in terms of control cable routing.
I won't go into any pro/cons of carb/FI, but what modifications on the
airbox are you talking about? I have the O-360, and the airbox from
Van's (made for AFP) fit without any modifications.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 425 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 57
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<rv4-list@matronics.com>, <rv3-list@matronics.com>,
<rocket-list@matronics.com>,
"<aerobatic-list@matronics.com>"
<rv7-list@matronics.com>,
<rv6-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | I made a donation & I'm registering as a Marrow donor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Okay Guys (and Gals),
Donating was the EASY part (you can do it too, it will only hurt when my wife
aka "my banker" finds out). I also did some soul searching, cuz' it's gonna
take a lot of time & traveling, but I decided I'm gonna be tested as a donor.
I just registered and now I wait to get an appointment to be tested. I gotta
go up to Stanford Medical Center (it's the closest donor center to me) and
I'll let you all know how it goes.
I hope some other folks will consider taking the plunge, either donating $
or becoming a blood/marrow donor or both... ya'll know it's for good/deserving
people.
check out
http://www.marrow.org/HELP/join_the_registry.html
or
www.transplants.org
Take Care and Take Air my friends,
Chuck
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Scott,
I have the old slow build 4 and it sure as heck needed a lot of work on
mine. I got a lower cowl that currently looks like someone on drugs did it
(please don't ask for pictures, I am so ashamed... but if you want to come
over & help me clean it up PLEASE feel free to).
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Vs Fuel Injection
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> ????? I have AFP injection and am not quite sure what your talking about.
I
> had no problems. The only problem I had with the FAB is moving it over so
> it wont hit the cowl. I hear this is common so it really dose not have
> anything to do with the injection. 2 other builders in the area had the
> same problem with out injection.
>
>
> At 03:27 PM 1/5/04 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >
> >Dang!!! I wished I'd have known about the spacer Bart has to make it
fit.
> >I have the Bendix & AFP stuff and I made a mess outta' modifying the air
> >inlet opening. I ain't no good at that there glassin' stuff (or in this
> >case epoxy stuff). But I don't see how a spacer would've helped. I had
to
> >lower the thing in order to fit in the filter box, a spacer would've made
it
> >even lower.
> >
> >do not archive
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <JusCash@aol.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Vs Fuel Injection
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
> >>
> >> I talked to Bart at Aero Sport. He recommended the Bendix F.I. with
the
> >> Airflow Performance pump/filter assy. He said with the Bendix he
provides
> >a
> >> spacer for the airbox so that it doesn't have to be modified. With
> >Airflow
> >> Performance a new airbox would have to be fabricated and the cowl inlet
> >opening might
> >> have to be modified. We discussed at length the pros and cons of carbs
> >and
> >> F.I. I have decided to go with the carburetor for simplicity and cost.
> >But I
> >> still might change my mind.
> >>
> >> Cash Copeland
> >> RV6 N46FC
> >> Hayward, Ca
> >>
> >> In a message dated 1/5/2004 2:32:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> >> crabaut@coalinga.com writes:
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >>
> >> Cash,
> >>
> >> I use to fly an O-320 D1A on my RV-4. I went with an IO-320 (from
> >> Ly-Con) and am very happy with the change from carb to injection.
Besides
> >> no more sputter when negative & no more carb icing, the injection fuel
> >> system wasn't that hard to install. Go with AFP for the pump &
related
> >> stuff, you won't be disappointed. They have quality/tested systems
that
> >> fit.
> >>
> >> Chuck
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
> do not archive
>
>
Message 59
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Edward W. O Connor" <edwardoconnor@mac.com>
I am trying to find a source for custom length push pull cables for a throttle
quadrant for an RV-8 which has a 2.5 inch throw vice the 3 3/8 throw I have found
in ACS and Wicks and which are not as large of diameter as the ones sold by
Vans. I had some custom cables made at a cable store which used Felsted F.A.S.T.
cable hardware with a 2 inch throw and they do not work on my set up. Every
web site I went to lists control ends with either 2 or 3 inch throws but
not 2.5 inch which is what works prefect for my quadrant. I bought a salvage
cable at a fly market which was a 2.5 inch throw and had a diameter of .25 inch
sheath but there is no manufacture lable anywhere. The ones Van's sells are
made by Cablecraft I believe and it has a 2.25 inch throw but has a diameter
of .35 inch. The Felsted cable is .31 inch diameter. The cable made by Aircraft
Spruce is .25 inch diameter but is not available in 2.25 or 2.50 inch throw.
Only the 3 3/8 throw. Any one know a manufacture I can contact.
Ed OConnor/RV-8/N366RV/Panama City FL
<edwardoconnor@mac.com>
Message 60
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| Subject: | Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Guys....I think Alex is right here, and a few of you may have it backwards.
When I was installing my Bendix System, Van's only had Control Cable
Brackets, FAB's etc.. for the AFP system. I ended up having a machine shop
build me a spacer for the Servo, and Van's made a custom cable bracket for
the servo, which I had to cut and weld to make work. I had three made and
sold them all to other prospective Bendix installers. On top of that, I had
to modify the FAB box on the side to let the mixture arm clear the FAB. Now
I understand Van's carries a better bracket for cables, but believe me, it's
still a pain with the mixture arm being where it's at on the Bendix Servo.
Here's the deal. The AFP servos have both the mixture and throttle arms on
the same side, and it makes for (or at least it used to) much easier cable
routing.
Van's had designed the stuff for the AFP since at the time (couple years
ago) it was a whole lot cheaper than going with Bendix stuff. I used the
Bendix becuase it was what came with my low time 360, but after looking at
dozens of FI installations while doing mine, I wished I would have had the
AFP servo instead of the Bendix. FYI, I'm about due an overhaul on my
servo, and you'll be interested to know that Don Rivera overhauls the AFP
servos cheaper than the Bendix.
Anyway, just making sure everyone is on the right page here, because all
this talk really sounds completely 180 degrees off from what I experienced 2
years ago, but then I'm often quite wrong!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
Subject: RE: RV-List: Carb Vs Fuel Injection
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> Good call! Go with Bendix. The AFP injection definitely
> requires quite a bit of modification both in terms of a
> custom airbox, and also in terms of control cable routing.
I won't go into any pro/cons of carb/FI, but what modifications on the
airbox are you talking about? I have the O-360, and the airbox from
Van's (made for AFP) fit without any modifications.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 425 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 61
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
As Scott mentioned, I'm referring to the horizontal induction setup of the
IO-360-A1B6 with the airbox running between the filter in the front left
baffle and the fuel controller inlet.
Apples and oranges...sorry to butt in...but if anybody out there is
considering *horizontal* induction beware of the additional work required to
make AFP injection work.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Carb Vs Fuel Injection
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
> > Good call! Go with Bendix. The AFP injection definitely
> > requires quite a bit of modification both in terms of a
> > custom airbox, and also in terms of control cable routing.
>
>
> I won't go into any pro/cons of carb/FI, but what modifications on the
> airbox are you talking about? I have the O-360, and the airbox from
> Van's (made for AFP) fit without any modifications.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 425 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
Message 62
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: PittsS1@aol.com
AFP...horizontal application...what additional work?
Message 63
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| Subject: | Slick magneto mounting clamp |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I need two mounting clamps. Where can these be bought or is it best to
fabricate them? I believe the official Lycoming p/n is 75965 for the 4370
mag.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit and FWF
Message 64
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| Subject: | Re: manual engine pre-oiler |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Pete,
Thanks for the information on the pump. My interest is pre-oiling on the
first start up of a new engine. Just cranking it with plugs out may be
adequate, but I wanted to consider using something else before cranking.
I'll be interested in your photo.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
ptjohn@comcast.net wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: <ptjohn@comcast.net>
>
> Richard
> The pump is sold for use in spraying cleaner on a deck. I got mine at Home
Depot, but you can get them at any home improvement store. I can't recall the
exact price, but it's certainly not over $45 or so.
> On an O-235, just remove the set screw with a hex wrench (it's at the front
of the engine just to the left of center). In the case of my particular pump,
when you remove the sprayer head from the plastic wand, the wand will screw
directly into the pre-oil orifice. Again, depending on the model of pump and
the engine being pre-oiled, you may have to do a little modification to get it
to fit.
> After you have put the oil in the pump, the pressure is built up by pumping.
Then set the pump on top of the engine (to help the flow), tape or clamp down
the trigger and you're spraying oil into the top of the engine where it can
drain throughout the case down to the sump.
> Hope that helps. Next time I'm up at the airport I'll take a pic of it and
post it. It's very simple.
> Pete
>
Message 65
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Custom control cable routing, custom fabricated bulkheads for the engine
side of the cables. Custom airbox. Cowl modifications because no matter
what airbox approach you use, you're not gonna get it under a stock Van's
IO-360 cowl.
We're fortunate that the FM-200 can be mounted at any angle, because the way
it came installed from AeroSport Power it just wasn't going to work without
some sort of "complicated" bellcrank to reverse the throttle throw. I
rotated it 90 counterclockwise (facing the engine from the front) and that
opened the door to non-reversed throttle & mixture throws.
Still working on the airbox, should have that molded up within a month or
two (caught up with other crap now). I "salvaged" the top end from Van's
IO-360 FAB kit, and just chopped off the bottom that normally mates with a
Bendix controller.
To complicate things, I'm going with ram air, so my cowl needs to be
modified/finished.
The story is way too long to go into here, so check out my web site if you
want the full scoop... http://www.rvproject.com You'll have to hunt and
peck for firewall forward pages, but it's all there.
Lots of work, lots of work. If I went with Bendix injection I might have
been done by now...but what fun would THAT be?! 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <PittsS1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Vs Fuel Injection
> --> RV-List message posted by: PittsS1@aol.com
>
> AFP...horizontal application...what additional work?
>
>
Message 66
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
> I am trying to find a source for custom length push pull
> cables for a throttle quadrant for an RV-8 which has a 2.5
> inch throw vice the 3 3/8 throw I have found in ACS and Wicks
> and which are not as large of diameter as the ones sold by
> Vans.
Try calling:
ACS 520-855-8613 CUSTOM CABLES
This ACS is not Aircraft Spruce, but they make the various vernier, etc,
cables that Van's and Aircraft Spruce sells. They make custom cables,
price and delivery is unbelievable. They are in AZ. I got my control
cables from them about 3 years ago.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 425 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 67
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| Subject: | Re: manual engine pre-oiler |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kai Schumann <kai92117@yahoo.com>
We've got one on our restored 64 1/2 mustang
convertable. works great to eliminate cold start wear,
but will add a few pounds to the front end of your
plane. Check out this one:
www.keith-eickert.com/oil_preoiler.htm It's much nicer
than the clunker we bought, and much lighter to boot.
Kai
Still deciding on what to build
--- Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley
> <rhdudley@att.net>
>
> Pete,
> Thanks for the information on the pump. My interest
> is pre-oiling on the
> first start up of a new engine. Just cranking it
> with plugs out may be
> adequate, but I wanted to consider using something
> else before cranking.
> I'll be interested in your photo.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
>
> ptjohn@comcast.net wrote:
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by:
> <ptjohn@comcast.net>
> >
> > Richard
> > The pump is sold for use in spraying cleaner on
> a deck. I got mine at Home Depot, but you can get
> them at any home improvement store. I can't recall
> the exact price, but it's certainly not over $45 or
> so.
> > On an O-235, just remove the set screw with a
> hex wrench (it's at the front of the engine just to
> the left of center). In the case of my particular
> pump, when you remove the sprayer head from the
> plastic wand, the wand will screw directly into the
> pre-oil orifice. Again, depending on the model of
> pump and the engine being pre-oiled, you may have to
> do a little modification to get it to fit.
> > After you have put the oil in the pump, the
> pressure is built up by pumping. Then set the pump
> on top of the engine (to help the flow), tape or
> clamp down the trigger and you're spraying oil into
> the top of the engine where it can drain throughout
> the case down to the sump.
> > Hope that helps. Next time I'm up at the
> airport I'll take a pic of it and post it. It's
> very simple.
> > Pete
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com/top2003
Message 68
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| Subject: | Spacers for Bendix System |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
If anybody needs one I have three.
Eustace Bowhay--Blind Bay, B.C.
Message 69
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| Subject: | Carb Vs Fuel Injection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
My AFP servo has the throttle on one side and the mixture on the other. The
bracket to hold the cables had to be modified considerably to fit around the
nose gear leg on my 8A, and I haven't mounted the FAB yet, but the cable
routing worked fine. It was the prop control cable that didn't work as
drawn.
My engine with the AFP injection came from Bart in maybe March of last year.
Terry
RV-8A wiring
Seattle
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
<snip>
Here's the deal. The AFP servos have both the mixture and throttle arms on
the same side, and it makes for (or at least it used to) much easier cable
routing.
<snip>
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
Subject: RE: RV-List: Carb Vs Fuel Injection
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> Good call! Go with Bendix. The AFP injection definitely
> requires quite a bit of modification both in terms of a
> custom airbox, and also in terms of control cable routing.
I won't go into any pro/cons of carb/FI, but what modifications on the
airbox are you talking about? I have the O-360, and the airbox from
Van's (made for AFP) fit without any modifications.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 425 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 70
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| Subject: | Re: light weight propellers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
At 3200 rpm I should imagine all bets were off. IMHO it would be a very
long shot to attribute this to the resonance in the gear case.
What did this engineer have to say about wooden props? Some of these
are surely lighter than the Aerocomposite or Whirlwind propellers.
The issue should really be the inertial mass (or moment of inertia). Is
this is even lower than for a conventional wooden prop? If so then you
would expect to have problems idleing and starting.
Doug Gray
LeastDrag93066@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
>
> Hi All,
>
> I had an interesting conversation with an engineer at Lycoming recently about
> the non-counterweighted crankshaft Lycoming O-360 engine.
>
> According to the Lycoming engineer, a light weight propeller can cause the
> harmonic vibrations of the engine to be reduced into the normal RPM operating
> range of the engine.
>
> What was interesting was that the problems occur in the accessory case gears
> in the engine. The engineer said that the harmonic in the accessory case
> gears can cause the magneto(s) to fail and the fuel pump to fail.
>
> The Lycoming engineer said that Hartzell, Sensenich and MT Propellers have
> been approved by Lycoming. Therefore, they do not have this harmonic problem
in
> the normal RPM operating range.
>
> The engineer also said that they normally test the manufactures propeller on
> their engine when one of the Lycoming distributors is planning to sell that
> propeller with their Lycoming engine.
>
> The Lycoming engineer I talked to did not know what an Aerocomposite or
> Whirlwind propeller was. He indicated that they had not been tested by Lycoming.
>
> The conversation trigger two items for me.
> 1.) A previous posting by someone with a fixed pitch propeller on a Lyc. 360
> who had magneto failures and had installed an electronic ignition. It would
> be worthwhile for this person to call Lycoming and have a talk with them,
> himself.
>
> 2.) I briefly flew my RV-3 with the Lycoming O-290 with an underpitched fixed
> pitch propeller at 3200 RPM. I say briefly because the wet compass started
> rotating at about 60 RPM. Now I know where the high frequency vibration
> originated. The accessory case gears. Very bad.
>
> Jim Ayers
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