Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:22 AM - Re: Sonex crash (was ELT antenna mounting RV8A) (Jack Lockamy)
2. 03:37 AM - Re: Microair 760 (Neil Henderson)
3. 06:10 AM - Re: Microair 760 (RVEIGHTA@aol.com)
4. 06:28 AM - Re: EIS-4000 Fuel Senders (czechsix@juno.com)
5. 07:03 AM - Re: Christian Inverted Oil System (Bob U.)
6. 07:21 AM - Re: Microair 760 (Bob U.)
7. 09:00 AM - Re: Microair 760 (Vic Jacko)
8. 09:04 AM - Re: Re: Prop indexing (Michael McGee)
9. 09:58 AM - Re: Microair 760 (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
10. 10:05 AM - More Starter Suff (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
11. 11:00 AM - Re: Microair 760 (Vic Jacko)
12. 11:40 AM - RV6A flap brace - big oops! (Brad Benson)
13. 01:44 PM - Re: RV6A flap brace - big oops! (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
14. 01:47 PM - Re: Re: Prop indexing (Heinrich Gerhardt)
15. 01:54 PM - Re: Forseling Exhaust (Mark Delano)
16. 05:34 PM - SCAT Tubing ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Sonex crash (was ELT antenna mounting RV8A) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Glen,
The Sonex crash details...... so others may benefit from my misfortune:
I installed a VW Type 4 engine in the Sonex (see www.jacklockamy.com/Engine.html) . The engine conversion kit I purchased from Great Plains Aircraft Supply who specializes in VW conversions for aircraft. The Force One prop hub disconnected from the crankshaft while I was taking off and at 400 FT AGL over the departure end of the runway at Oxnard Airport on 9/8/02. I had 100.2 hours on the engine/prop.
Landing straight ahead was nasty.... lemon grove (at that time....today the field
is plowed dirt and level....). Looked to my LT and there was the parallel
taxiway. Looked better than the orchard and despite hearing the voices, "land
straight ahead... never turn back", I went for it. Immediately notified the
tower of the engine failure and intentions to land on the taxiway. Turned LT...
tried to get lined up on the taxiway and made it around through 160 degrees
of turn when the LT wingtip caught dirt next to the taxiway. I hit the ground
at approx. 85 MPH which was the Best Glide Speed for the Sonex. I was very
aware of the 'stall/spin' occurances in this situation, thus I was locked into
the 85 MPH glide speed and kept the turn as smooth as possible. Just didn't
have enough altitude to get that last 20 degrees of turn....
Plane cartwheeled, and I was ejected from the cockpit. I was only wearing the
lapbelts (which held) and not the sholder harness. Bad mistake! I was literally
"sucked" out of the lapbelt and ejected through the plexiglass canopy and
thrown/slid 135 FT from impact. Plane then proceeded to roll over me before it
stopped approx 165 FT from the point of impact. During the post accident investigation,
the FAA inspector confirmed the seatbelt was still buckled and intact
in the plane. The Sonex is a very strong design. Probably saved my life.
Broken nose, broken ribs, punctured/collasped RT lung, broken LT hand, 50 or so
stitches in the face, dislocated LT hip/leg, and MASSIVE amounts of 'road rash'
from sliding on the asphalt pavement. All in all... a very bad day. But
I survived!!!
Airplane was totaled. Spent a week in ICU. I was out of work for 8 weeks. Great
Plains Aircraft had another builder experience the same prop hub failure a
week later. That engine builder was fortunate in that his plane was tied down
and the prop ended up in splinters about 8-10 FT out in front of the plane.
He had approx 80 hours on his plane/engine. Great Plains has since issued
a Service Bulletin on the VW Type 4 crankshaft they were machining and no longer
recommend it. They now recommend the SCAT Type 4 crankshaft which is machined
differently for the prop hub attachment.
Lessons learned..... have full coverage insurance and ALWAYS wear the sholder harnesses!!!
Oh.... and time passes very quickly when you have an in-flight emergency.
Jack "installing a lycoming" Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A QB Instrument panel/wiring
www.jacklockamy.com
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Microair 760 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
Bob
What defines a good Antenna. As far as I can see these are very simple affairs
comprising a means of terminating the coax cable and connecting the centre core
to a length of metal of a defined length. Am I missing something?
Neil Henderson
Bob wrote:
I have about 1 watt for transmit and can talk 100 miles if need be.
Doubling or tripling the power increases range very little. A good
antenna is a must to hear and talk any practical distance. To talk
farther, altitude is far more important than power
Do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Microair 760 |
--> RV-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
Vic, I realize you can use PTT switches (or even toggles, for that matter)
so that in between conversations with the passenger the intercom is silent,
but what about during the conversation? Since you still have a hot mike,
doesn't it pick up ambient noise, making conversation difficult?
In my case, I have some hearing loss and nice, crisp communications are a
must.
Walt
P.S. I will post results of my flighttech intercom installation
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: EIS-4000 Fuel Senders |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Scott, I have an EIS-4000 with the Princeton capacitive probes, I'm not
flying yet but they were very easy to install and the calibration
procedure looks pretty straightforward. They aren't cheap but appear to
be high quality and are less likely to give you problems down the road
than the float type senders.
I can't send you any pics because mine are already installed in my tanks.
FWIW, I might have considered using Vans kit if I were still building my
tanks. It's cheaper than the Princeton probes but takes more time and
might be harder to service if you ever need to in the future. When I was
building tanks I seriously considered Vans capacitive kit but steered
away from it because at the time they said it was made to work with the
EI Fuel Quantity Indicator which was very pricey ($300 range??). Anyhow
Greg Toman has since set up the EIS-4000 so it can work with Vans kit and
so that might be the way to go for the least expensive option...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D baffles...
Subject: RV-List: EIS-4000 Fuel Senders
From: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
I've decided on the Grand Rapids EIS-4000 for fuel monitoring, and I was
needing
some help on the fuel sender decision. I think I am going to go with the
Princeton
capacitive probes that GRT sells, but I am having a hard time
understanding
what they look like. Does anyone have a picture of the Princeton
capacitive
and the Stewart Warner float type senders for comparison? Those using
the
Princeton...do they seem to be closer to the float-type or the Van's
capacitive
plates in accuracy?
For others interested...I thought I'd share what I know (details below
applicable
to the EIS). Order of accuracy would be as follows:
1) Van's capacitive plates - require a separate converter ($95 x 2), must
be built
into tanks, plates are $60 through vans (total)
2) Princeton capacitive probes - no converters required, sell for $95
each, mount
through access plate, can be purchased pre-bent for RVs, are calibrated
during
installation by filling and acknowledging levels
3) Float-type senders - cheapest ($23 per side), unit is calibrated
during install,
no converters required
THanks,
Scott Haskins
7A WIngs
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Christian Inverted Oil System |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 1/9/2004 8:55:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>scottbrown@precisionjet.com writes:
>
>I have a Christian Inverted Oil system on my RV4. I do not fly inverted so
>much that I would need such a thing.
>
>Do you also happen to have an agnostic one?
>
Arrgh.
Just think....
This will be in the archives forever.
Bob -
DO NOT ARCHIVE <---<<<<
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Microair 760 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Neil Henderson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
>
>Bob
>
>What defines a good Antenna. As far as I can see these are very simple affairs
comprising a means of terminating the coax cable and connecting the centre core
to a length of metal of a defined length. Am I missing something?
>
>Neil Henderson
>
For me, a good antenna is.....
A quarter wave aircraft design, mounted VERTICALLY on the belly as my
first choice. Second choice is - vertically on top of the fuselage,
clear of other metallic obstructions.
If I didn't give a ratz butt about reliable radio performance....
I'd mount it horizontally in a wingtip, inside the fuselage, etcetera. :-)
YMMV.
Bob - retired 35 year Motorola two-radio tech and crop duster
>
>Bob wrote:
>
>I have about 1 watt for transmit and can talk 100 miles if need be.
> Doubling or tripling the power increases range very little. A good
> antenna is a must to hear and talk any practical distance. To talk
> farther, altitude is far more important than power
>
>Do not archive
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Microair 760 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
I agree with all comments made concerning antenna choice and location with
one more provision: The most important three things you can do to make cure
your radio works most of the time are: connection/ connection/ connection.
Please make all connections by the book! Almost all failures in
communication equipment is the lack of good solid antenna to radio
connections. The most often problem is a bad ground connection at the
antenna! The second is the mike and head set connections. The third,
everything else!
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Microair 760
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
>
> Neil Henderson wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson"
<neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
> >
> >Bob
> >
> >What defines a good Antenna. As far as I can see these are very simple
affairs comprising a means of terminating the coax cable and connecting the
centre core to a length of metal of a defined length. Am I missing
something?
> >
> >Neil Henderson
> >
>
> For me, a good antenna is.....
> A quarter wave aircraft design, mounted VERTICALLY on the belly as my
> first choice. Second choice is - vertically on top of the fuselage,
> clear of other metallic obstructions.
>
> If I didn't give a ratz butt about reliable radio performance....
> I'd mount it horizontally in a wingtip, inside the fuselage, etcetera.
:-)
>
> YMMV.
>
>
> Bob - retired 35 year Motorola two-radio tech and crop duster
>
>
> >
> >Bob wrote:
> >
> >I have about 1 watt for transmit and can talk 100 miles if need be.
> > Doubling or tripling the power increases range very little. A good
> > antenna is a must to hear and talk any practical distance. To talk
> > farther, altitude is far more important than power
> >
> >Do not archive
> >
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Prop indexing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 22:53 2004-01-09, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
>
>McMaster-Carr sells a hand held vibration analyzer for $680. It will
>measure vibration acceleration, displacement, and velocity
>
>http://www.mcmaster.com/
>
>Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin,
>Tennessee)
>
>Do not archive
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
><lhelming@sigecom.net>
>(snip)
> >What type of device could be used to measure the vibrations to do such a
>test?
The Digital Vibration tester in McMaster Carr would only give the vibration
amplitude and not provide any prop angle information. That is if you are
trying to balance the rotating assembly you need to know where to put the
balance weight. Of course trial and error and some trigonometry combined
with your weight and balance skills should get you close after 3-5 runs.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Microair 760 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 1/10/04 8:11:24 AM Central Standard Time, RVEIGHTA@aol.com
writes:
> Since you still have a hot mike,
> doesn't it pick up ambient noise, making conversation difficult?
But don't you still have to break squelch for the sidetone/intercom to
function, and therefore no ambient noise when not talking?
Mark
Message 10
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| Subject: | More Starter Suff |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy agin',
My O-320 has a 122 tooth ring gear and last nite I bolted up a geared
prestolite borrowed from a friend to see if it runs better than my direct-drive
Delco. Both starters have nine teeth on the pinions, but the geared starter only
engages about a third of the depth of the ring gear teeth (no, I'm not going to
run it!) Does this indicate that the geared motor came from a 149 tooth
engine?
Thanks again for all the help!
Mark
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Microair 760 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
The intercom with the current Microair is either on or off depending
whether you ground or un-ground the correct pin for intercom. When the pin
is grounded the intercom is live. when the pin is un-grounded the headset
is dead with no noise except what might be received on the radio receiver.
I heard of some transceiver system (can't recall) that has a squelch built
into the intercom which is part of the radio intercom system. It might be
the new Becker! anyone know ?
Yes the system is noisy when turned on but so are most other systems when
you break the squelch and talk. They all pick up cockpit, air and engine
noise. some more than others
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Microair 760
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 1/10/04 8:11:24 AM Central Standard Time,
RVEIGHTA@aol.com
> writes:
>
> > Since you still have a hot mike,
> > doesn't it pick up ambient noise, making conversation difficult?
>
> But don't you still have to break squelch for the sidetone/intercom to
> function, and therefore no ambient noise when not talking?
>
> Mark
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | RV6A flap brace - big oops! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@notamd.com>
Argh.
I just came in from the shop, where I discovered what appears to
be a rather large error on my part. Being a rational person, I
thought I would seek the wisdom of the group before I freak out
:-).
I have a RV6A QB, which I've recently been able to start working
on again. The last thing I did last year before taking time from
the project to finish off a basement was to attach the flap braces
to both wings and fit the flaps. Getting backing into the
project, I fit the flaps to the wings again this morning and
noticed that the flap for the left wing is not placed right;
vertically, it sits perhaps 3/8" higher than it should. I dug
out the airfoil templates, and sure enough, the flap needs to be
lowered about 3/8" at the inboard end and about 1/4" outboard.
One solution is to lower the flap brace (W-621) on the rear spar
web (W-607A). I'm concerned about doing this, however, since
new rivet holes will be needed in the rear spar and they will be
too close to the existing holes. Since I already have extra
holes in this piece anyway (from another earlier mistake...grumble
grumble grumble), I don't have a lot of confidence in this
approach.
The next solution, not one I'm really very excited about, is
replacing the rear spar web (W-607A). This is a much bigger task,
but if I have to do it I will. It looks like the hardest part of
this approach will be riveting the top inboard skin back on, since
the bottom skin is already in place. I should be able to transfer
the doublers, aileron brackets, etc. without any problems.
Thanks!
Brad Benson, Software Engineer / RV6A Builder
brad@notamd.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RV6A flap brace - big oops! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 1/10/04 1:42:27 PM Central Standard Time, brad@notamd.com
writes:
> I dug
> out the airfoil templates, and sure enough, the flap needs to be
> lowered about 3/8" at the inboard end and about 1/4" outboard.
>
You ain't the first & neither wuz I! 8-) Did the same thing, drilled out
the rivets and re-positioned the brace- Ken at Van's was consulted at the time
& he said this was fine, and that you could just call all the extras
"lightening holes" <G> This may depend of course on where and how many you mean
by
the "other" holes. Might be best to go to the mountain top on that
one.........
I'll send a photo of my F
.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Prop indexing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Heinrich Gerhardt" <hgerhardt@earthlink.net>
I have an IO-360 A3B6D that came off of a Mooney. The thing about the
-A3B6(D) is that the prop bushings are replaced with a set that
re-indexes the prop 60deg from "normal". This was done to reduce
vibration. The original prop for the engine was a Hartzell 2-blade.
Anyone have any info on how re-indexing the prop in this manner changes
the harmonics of the whole package? I intend to use this engine in my
RV-6 with the Hartzell that Van's sells (the older version, not the new
scimitar).
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Forseling Exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Delano" <m.delano@worldnet.att.net>
303-841-6049
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Subject: RV-List: Forseling Exhaust
> --> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>
>
> I bought my exhaust from John Forseling (Forseling Aviation)
> in Colorado and I need to call him with a question. I have lost his
> number and wondered if anybody on the list has it. You can answer off
> list.
> Thanks,
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: <jlisler@alltel.net>
How much 2" SCAT tubing does it normally take to plumb a typical RV-4? I have an
0-320 with a 4 pipe Vetterman exhaust and a Robbins heat muff. Of course I'll
have cabin heat to the firewall and carburetor heat. Where is a good place to
get tubing?
Thanks,
Jerry Isler
RV-4 # 1070
N455J
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