Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:38 AM - Navaid Autopilot For Sale (John Henley)
2. 05:43 AM - Re: Re: Sonex crash (was ELT antenna mounting RV8A) (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
3. 06:21 AM - Flap attachment to wing (Ken Simmons)
4. 06:40 AM - Facet High Pressure? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
5. 07:00 AM - Re: RV6A flap brace - big oops! (Jim Oke)
6. 07:12 AM - 4 tank RV-8 question (Doug Rozendaal)
7. 07:16 AM - Sexy panels (Doug Rozendaal)
8. 07:27 AM - Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE (Richard Meske)
9. 07:56 AM - Re: Flap attachment to wing (Dan Checkoway)
10. 08:04 AM - Re: Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE (Richard Tasker)
11. 08:09 AM - Re: Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE ()
12. 08:17 AM - Fiber optic intrument panel light (Dana Overall)
13. 08:32 AM - Re: Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE (lucky macy)
14. 08:49 AM - PC680 Battery (RGray67968@aol.com)
15. 08:49 AM - Re: Sexy panels (Bill VonDane)
16. 08:52 AM - Re: Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE (Scott Bilinski)
17. 08:59 AM - Re: Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
18. 08:59 AM - Re: Flap attachment to wing (Ken Simmons)
19. 09:23 AM - Re: PC680 Battery (Denis Walsh)
20. 09:30 AM - Re: ELT antenna mounting RV8A (Mike Robertson)
21. 09:30 AM - ENGINES/PROPS/GOV (gtsio@aol.com)
22. 09:30 AM - Re: PC680 Battery (Scott Bilinski)
23. 09:40 AM - Re: AD compliance (Mike Robertson)
24. 09:46 AM - Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
25. 09:47 AM - Fuel consumption (Wheeler North)
26. 09:54 AM - Re: Aviation Humor & Truism-s (P M Condon)
27. 09:54 AM - Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV (gtsio@aol.com)
28. 10:10 AM - Re: PC680 Battery (RGray67968@aol.com)
29. 10:21 AM - Re: PC680 Battery (Lenleg@aol.com)
30. 10:28 AM - Re: PC680 Battery (Greg Milner)
31. 10:30 AM - Re: 4 tank RV-8 question (Mickey Coggins)
32. 10:31 AM - ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position (Richard Meske)
33. 10:33 AM - Props, FARs and ADs (Wheeler North)
34. 10:37 AM - Re: Navaid Autopilot For Sale (HCRV6@aol.com)
35. 10:38 AM - Re: Sexy panels (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
36. 10:40 AM - Re: Re: Reply to "Navaid Autopilot For Sale" (HCRV6@aol.com)
37. 10:49 AM - Re: ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position (Brian Denk)
38. 10:57 AM - Re: PC680 Battery (Scott Bilinski)
39. 11:02 AM - Re: PC680 Battery (James E. Clark)
40. 11:12 AM - Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV (Phil N)
41. 11:13 AM - Re: Related to "ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position" (HCRV6@aol.com)
42. 11:30 AM - Re: PC680 Battery (Gary Zilik)
43. 11:33 AM - Re: ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position (Terry Watson)
44. 11:45 AM - Re: PC680 Battery (Larry Bowen)
45. 12:13 PM - Re: Props, FARs and ADs (Dan Checkoway)
46. 12:31 PM - Re: Re: Aviation Humor & Truism-s (JOHN STARN)
47. 12:53 PM - ELTs (flmike)
48. 12:56 PM - Re: PC680 Battery (Dan Checkoway)
49. 01:10 PM - Re: Aux Oil Pump (Kevin Horton)
50. 01:11 PM - Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
51. 01:19 PM - Re: PC680 Battery (Dean Pichon)
52. 01:21 PM - Re: AD compliance (Cy Galley)
53. 01:22 PM - Re: PC680 Battery (linn walters)
54. 01:30 PM - Re: Props, FARs and ADs (Cy Galley)
55. 01:50 PM - Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV (gtsio@aol.com)
56. 01:50 PM - Re: PC680 Battery (Jim Jewell)
57. 01:53 PM - Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV (gtsio@aol.com)
58. 01:56 PM - Re: ELTs (C. Rabaut)
59. 02:09 PM - Re: PC680 Battery (Sam Buchanan)
60. 02:46 PM - Wow... Weee... Wayne (C. Rabaut)
61. 03:05 PM - Re: ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position (Bob U.)
62. 03:21 PM - Re: Jeppesen Skybound II NavCard Datawritter (Kai Schumann)
63. 03:51 PM - Re: ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position (Terry Watson)
64. 03:51 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 01/11/04 (PSPRV6A@aol.com)
65. 04:33 PM - Re: Wow... Weee... Wayne (JusCash@aol.com)
66. 04:48 PM - Re: ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position (Bob U.)
67. 05:11 PM - Back Rivet Set (larry gobin)
68. 05:37 PM - Re: Back Rivet Set (Curt)
69. 05:38 PM - Re: Back Rivet Set (Jeff Orear)
70. 07:33 PM - Re: Related to "ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position" (thomas a. sargent)
71. 08:42 PM - Re: ELTs (flmike)
72. 08:46 PM - Re: ELTs (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
73. 09:17 PM - Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics (Rick Fogerson)
74. 09:25 PM - Grand Rapids EIS 4000 MAP sensor (Rick Fogerson)
75. 10:35 PM - Re: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics (Dan Checkoway)
76. 10:36 PM - Re: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics (Dan Checkoway)
77. 11:56 PM - Re: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | Navaid Autopilot For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Henley" <henley@seii.net>
Listners,
I have decided to sell my Navaid autopilot with GPS coupler. I purchased
it two years ago and never used it. Asking $1250. Contact me off line if interested.
John Henley, 850-609-3175
Do not archive
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Sonex crash (was ELT antenna mounting RV8A) |
01/12/2004 07:03:54 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Thanks Jack:
It was/is a bad situation. However I am glad
to know your still in the "hobby". My brother was in the U.S. Airways plane
crash at Charlotte N.C. He and his wife lived although they had to have
major surgeries. And he only flies now when the military sends him
somewhere, but hates it otherwise. ( he used to love flying) I hope to
never endure a situation such as the one you, my brother and countless
others have had to go through. Hope this letter finds you well and best of
luck to you.
Regards
Glenn
Message 3
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Subject: | Flap attachment to wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
I asked a similar question earlier, but I'm still dinking around with this. I had
an idea and wanted opinions.
Dan Checkoway references an excellent article he wrote using extra holes to line
up the flap brace, bottom skin and hinge (this is for the pre-punched kits).
In watching the George O videos he mentions countersinking the flap brace instead
of the hinge just like the bottom of the spar on the flap itself.
The question, if the flap brace is countersunk and the bottom skin is dimpled,
wouldn't those two parts nestle together and provide the proper alignment to get
the hinge drilled?
Thanks.
Ken
do not archive
Message 4
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|
Subject: | Facet High Pressure? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Question # 278:
Can the Facet fuel pump Van's sells have a failure mode where it generates
too much pressure? I poured fuel in one of my tanks last nite and turned on the
pump. It clicked loudly for about 6-8 seconds, then got much quieter and
slower as the fuel hit it. All normal, according to archives. I then looked at
my EIS to see if the pressure sender was working correctly and the display was
flashing a fuel pressure warning- it showed 29psi! I acknowledged the fault,
the display returned to the normal page and it still said 29! I immediately
shut off the pump & watched the displayed pressure drop down,(indicating the
sender is at least functioning, but I'm haven't yet checked the EIS for Aux2
scaling).
Naturally I jumped out of the plane to find gas pouring out of the airbox,
possibly at least a pint or more. I estimate the pump ran for maybe ten seconds
after it primed.
The pump is the standard little square one in Van's catalog (only model they
sell) the ES40108. I'll check with them later today, and also connect a
regular low pressure gauge to the system & check that tonight.
Any or suggestions?
Thanks as always,
Mark
Message 5
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|
Subject: | Re: RV6A flap brace - big oops! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Yes, it does sound like your flap brace is located in the wrong location on
the spar web. My advice would be to drill out the rivets, reposition the
spar brace to get the airfoil shape to what you feel it should be and then
redrill the brace to the spar web.
If some of the rivet holes in the spar web are going to be too close
vertically for comfort, why not consider moving them laterally a half inch
or so to ensure there is a fresh hole with decent edge spacing. Yes, this
will leave extra unfilled holes in the web and the brace but assuming they
are clean and decently de-burred there should be no effect on strength or
service life. Adjust the spacing to have perhaps an extra rivet or two along
the brace-to-web join and that should be fine. A consult with Van's about
how many rivets are really needed in this area and the spacing of same
would be a good idea.
The extra holes in the spar web could be filled with rivets if you wanted to
for appearance purposes but this will have no practical effect
strength-wise. Messing about with the flap brace would probably do more harm
than good in this regard. FWIW, this area is simply not visible when the
flaps are installed so no need to worry about others might see later on and
only you will know the difference. Replacing the flap brace is doable but
would obviously do nothing for the holes in the spar web and would seem to
be a lot of work for a hidden appearance factor. There are cases where the
"cure" of replacing parts can be worse than leaving the problem be.
Jim Oke
RV-3, RV-6A
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Benson" <brad@notamd.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV6A flap brace - big oops!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@notamd.com>
>
> Argh.
>
> I just came in from the shop, where I discovered what appears to
> be a rather large error on my part. Being a rational person, I
> thought I would seek the wisdom of the group before I freak out
> :-).
>
> I have a RV6A QB, which I've recently been able to start working
> on again. The last thing I did last year before taking time from
> the project to finish off a basement was to attach the flap braces
> to both wings and fit the flaps. Getting backing into the
> project, I fit the flaps to the wings again this morning and
> noticed that the flap for the left wing is not placed right;
> vertically, it sits perhaps 3/8" higher than it should. I dug
> out the airfoil templates, and sure enough, the flap needs to be
> lowered about 3/8" at the inboard end and about 1/4" outboard.
>
> One solution is to lower the flap brace (W-621) on the rear spar
> web (W-607A). I'm concerned about doing this, however, since
> new rivet holes will be needed in the rear spar and they will be
> too close to the existing holes. Since I already have extra
> holes in this piece anyway (from another earlier mistake...grumble
> grumble grumble), I don't have a lot of confidence in this
> approach.
>
> The next solution, not one I'm really very excited about, is
> replacing the rear spar web (W-607A). This is a much bigger task,
> but if I have to do it I will. It looks like the hardest part of
> this approach will be riveting the top inboard skin back on, since
> the bottom skin is already in place. I should be able to transfer
> the doublers, aileron brackets, etc. without any problems.
>
> Thanks!
> Brad Benson, Software Engineer / RV6A Builder
> brad@notamd.com
>
>
Message 6
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|
Subject: | 4 tank RV-8 question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
A friend of mine was asked to install 4 tanks, 2 extra outboard, in a RV-8
for an IFR Commuter for a N.D. to Texas mission. NO Acro. I know this has
been discussed, or done, any info would be appreciated. I will forward the
responses to him.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I am writing an article for IFR magazine about all the affordable sexy stuff
we have that the spam cans don't. I am looking for a hi-res picture of a
really hi-tech panel. It would not have to be RV. An emphasis on
non-certified avionics, autopilot, engine monitoring would be best.
Send them to me directly at dougr@petroblend.com
Tailwinds,
Doug
Message 8
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From: | Richard Meske <rmeske@gcfn.org> (SquirrelMail authenticated user rmeske) by www.gcfn.org with HTTP; Mon, |
12 Jan 2004 10:26:51.-0500@matronics.com (EST)
Subject: | Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE |
Just thought I'd pipe in and say, this bothers me, and should others:
PLEASE do NOT encourage others to install the ELT antennas in the empenage
fairing. Even though it can be done, it is not a wise choice. If there
are any HAM operators out there, they'll back me up on the facts.
First of all;
If, and when you really need this ELT, . . you will certainly want to be
heard, and found quickly.
Second of all;
Mounting the ELT antenna in this location severly limits your output signal
strength. Consider if you crash, you will be on the ground, and maybe in a
gully of valley somewhere. In this case, you'll need all of the signal
strength you can muster to be heard and found quickly. The frequencies
that the ELT uses are mostly line of site communication. The closest tower
or FSS will most likely be far away. The only person(s) that will hear a
weak signal will be the guys that normally fly in the air. Even they need
a good signal to trip their ELT receiving alarm.
If you study up on antennas, you'll quickly find out that an antenna needs
a good ground plane to work against. Mounting an antenna in the empenage
fairing does not cut it here. ALSO, the surrounding aircraft frame acts
like a cage keeping most of the signal strength within the tail section of
the aircraft. It's almost like building an antenna inside a bird cage, . .
or like keeping all of the RF inside our microwaves to exaggerate a
little.
The ELT signal that will leak out of the fiberglass fairing area will be
weak. You cannot judge this strength by the modulated tone that you hear
when you test your ELT. It will sound the same. HAM operators test their
radios and antennas with a signal strength meter. If anyone doubts what I
am saying, please ask any HAM radio operator that has done some testing on
their radio's for signal strength for different antenna configurations and
locations. It really matters.
Again, PLEASE do not encourage others to install their ELT antennas in
locations that limit signal strength. After all, most of us want to be
found quickly when we need the use of our ELT!
OK, off of my soap box.
Best regards to all,
Rich
www.aircraftextras.com
> Jack:
How far were you from the tower when they reported receiving your signal?
Tom Sargent RV-6A
> Jack Lockamy wrote:
RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Mike (and others),
I used the same type ELT antenna (rubber duck) and also mounted it
under the empennage fairing, mounted facing aft off the rear bulkhead.
Same results..... tower reported LOUD and CLEAR. The antenna is there
to stay. In most crashes, the tail is likely to survive better than
the fuse or wing.... IMHO.
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Re: Flap attachment to wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Yes, but if you've already dimpled & countersunk, it kind of goes against
the grain of drilling only once...and it risks both enlarging the already
dimpled/c-sunk holes and misaligning the holes drilled into the hinge.
Probably is extremely low of that happening, though, so ymmv. Do whatever
you think works best.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
Subject: RV-List: Flap attachment to wing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
> I asked a similar question earlier, but I'm still dinking around with
this. I had an idea and wanted opinions.
>
> Dan Checkoway references an excellent article he wrote using extra holes
to line up the flap brace, bottom skin and hinge (this is for the
pre-punched kits). In watching the George O videos he mentions
countersinking the flap brace instead of the hinge just like the bottom of
the spar on the flap itself.
>
> The question, if the flap brace is countersunk and the bottom skin is
dimpled, wouldn't those two parts nestle together and provide the proper
alignment to get the hinge drilled?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Ken
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 10
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|
Subject: | Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
Okay, then where would you recommend it be mounted?
Dick Tasker
Richard Meske (SquirrelMail authenticated user rmeske) wrote:
>
>Just thought I'd pipe in and say, this bothers me, and should others:
>
>PLEASE do NOT encourage others to install the ELT antennas in the empenage
>fairing. Even though it can be done, it is not a wise choice. If there
>are any HAM operators out there, they'll back me up on the facts.
>
>First of all;
>If, and when you really need this ELT, . . you will certainly want to be
>heard, and found quickly.
>
>Second of all;
>Mounting the ELT antenna in this location severly limits your output signal
>strength. Consider if you crash, you will be on the ground, and maybe in a
>gully of valley somewhere. In this case, you'll need all of the signal
>strength you can muster to be heard and found quickly. The frequencies
>that the ELT uses are mostly line of site communication. The closest tower
>or FSS will most likely be far away. The only person(s) that will hear a
>weak signal will be the guys that normally fly in the air. Even they need
>a good signal to trip their ELT receiving alarm.
>
>If you study up on antennas, you'll quickly find out that an antenna needs
>a good ground plane to work against. Mounting an antenna in the empenage
>fairing does not cut it here. ALSO, the surrounding aircraft frame acts
>like a cage keeping most of the signal strength within the tail section of
>the aircraft. It's almost like building an antenna inside a bird cage, . .
>or like keeping all of the RF inside our microwaves to exaggerate a
>little.
>
>The ELT signal that will leak out of the fiberglass fairing area will be
>weak. You cannot judge this strength by the modulated tone that you hear
>when you test your ELT. It will sound the same. HAM operators test their
>radios and antennas with a signal strength meter. If anyone doubts what I
>am saying, please ask any HAM radio operator that has done some testing on
>their radio's for signal strength for different antenna configurations and
>locations. It really matters.
>
>Again, PLEASE do not encourage others to install their ELT antennas in
>locations that limit signal strength. After all, most of us want to be
>found quickly when we need the use of our ELT!
>
>OK, off of my soap box.
>
>Best regards to all,
>Rich
>www.aircraftextras.com
>
>
>
>
>>Jack:
>>
>>
>How far were you from the tower when they reported receiving your signal?
>Tom Sargent RV-6A
>
>
>
>>Jack Lockamy wrote:
>>
>>
>RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
>Mike (and others),
>I used the same type ELT antenna (rubber duck) and also mounted it
>under the empennage fairing, mounted facing aft off the rear bulkhead.
>Same results..... tower reported LOUD and CLEAR. The antenna is there
>to stay. In most crashes, the tail is likely to survive better than
>the fuse or wing.... IMHO.
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE |
--> RV-List message posted by: <klwerner@comcast.net>
Dear Rich,
Based on your experience and knowledge with radio waves:
What location do you recommend/-encourage to install the ELT Antenna for best signal
performance?
Thanks,
Konrad
Do not archive (yet)
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Meske (SquirrelMail authenticated user rmeske) by www.gcfn.org with HTTP ; Mon ; 12 Jan 2004 10:26:51.-0500@matronics.com (EST)
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 8:26 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE
Just thought I'd pipe in and say, this bothers me, and should others:
PLEASE do NOT encourage others to install the ELT antennas in the empenage
fairing. Even though it can be done, it is not a wise choice. If there
are any HAM operators out there, they'll back me up on the facts.
First of all;
If, and when you really need this ELT, . . you will certainly want to be
heard, and found quickly.
Second of all;
Mounting the ELT antenna in this location severly limits your output signal
strength. Consider if you crash, you will be on the ground, and maybe in a
gully of valley somewhere. In this case, you'll need all of the signal
strength you can muster to be heard and found quickly. The frequencies
that the ELT uses are mostly line of site communication. The closest tower
or FSS will most likely be far away. The only person(s) that will hear a
weak signal will be the guys that normally fly in the air. Even they need
a good signal to trip their ELT receiving alarm.
If you study up on antennas, you'll quickly find out that an antenna needs
a good ground plane to work against. Mounting an antenna in the empenage
fairing does not cut it here. ALSO, the surrounding aircraft frame acts
like a cage keeping most of the signal strength within the tail section of
the aircraft. It's almost like building an antenna inside a bird cage, . .
or like keeping all of the RF inside our microwaves to exaggerate a
little.
The ELT signal that will leak out of the fiberglass fairing area will be
weak. You cannot judge this strength by the modulated tone that you hear
when you test your ELT. It will sound the same. HAM operators test their
radios and antennas with a signal strength meter. If anyone doubts what I
am saying, please ask any HAM radio operator that has done some testing on
their radio's for signal strength for different antenna configurations and
locations. It really matters.
Again, PLEASE do not encourage others to install their ELT antennas in
locations that limit signal strength. After all, most of us want to be
found quickly when we need the use of our ELT!
OK, off of my soap box.
Best regards to all,
Rich
www.aircraftextras.com
> Jack:
How far were you from the tower when they reported receiving your signal?
Tom Sargent RV-6A
> Jack Lockamy wrote:
RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Mike (and others),
I used the same type ELT antenna (rubber duck) and also mounted it
under the empennage fairing, mounted facing aft off the rear bulkhead.
Same results..... tower reported LOUD and CLEAR. The antenna is there
to stay. In most crashes, the tail is likely to survive better than
the fuse or wing.... IMHO.
Message 12
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|
Subject: | Fiber optic intrument panel light |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Someone I know on another list has developed a new type of fiber optic
instrument light that looks like a good idea. It uses one very low power
LED
light source and should make instrument panel wiring a lot easier.
The companis web site is www.engalt.com/aviation.htm and Aircraft Spruce
sells them at
www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/instrpostlite.php
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Find out everything you need to know about Las Vegas here for that getaway.
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
on top of the fuselage right behind where the slider ends for best reception
assuming you end up with the wheels still down.
There's a couple of easy reasons why that's not appealing. Next best place
would be inside the passenger compartment in front the bulkhead where rear
seat rests against. There's a few pics of that installation out there.
>From: <klwerner@comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE
>Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 09:10:44 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: <klwerner@comcast.net>
>
>Dear Rich,
>Based on your experience and knowledge with radio waves:
>What location do you recommend/-encourage to install the ELT Antenna for
>best signal performance?
>
>Thanks,
>Konrad
>
>Do not archive (yet)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Richard Meske (SquirrelMail authenticated user rmeske) by
>www.gcfn.org with HTTP ; Mon ; 12 Jan 2004 10:26:51.-0500@matronics.com
>(EST)
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 8:26 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE
>
>
> Just thought I'd pipe in and say, this bothers me, and should others:
>
> PLEASE do NOT encourage others to install the ELT antennas in the
>empenage
> fairing. Even though it can be done, it is not a wise choice. If there
> are any HAM operators out there, they'll back me up on the facts.
>
> First of all;
> If, and when you really need this ELT, . . you will certainly want to be
> heard, and found quickly.
>
> Second of all;
> Mounting the ELT antenna in this location severly limits your output
>signal
> strength. Consider if you crash, you will be on the ground, and maybe
>in a
> gully of valley somewhere. In this case, you'll need all of the signal
> strength you can muster to be heard and found quickly. The frequencies
> that the ELT uses are mostly line of site communication. The closest
>tower
> or FSS will most likely be far away. The only person(s) that will hear
>a
> weak signal will be the guys that normally fly in the air. Even they
>need
> a good signal to trip their ELT receiving alarm.
>
> If you study up on antennas, you'll quickly find out that an antenna
>needs
> a good ground plane to work against. Mounting an antenna in the
>empenage
> fairing does not cut it here. ALSO, the surrounding aircraft frame acts
> like a cage keeping most of the signal strength within the tail section
>of
> the aircraft. It's almost like building an antenna inside a bird cage,
>. .
> or like keeping all of the RF inside our microwaves to exaggerate a
> little.
>
> The ELT signal that will leak out of the fiberglass fairing area will be
> weak. You cannot judge this strength by the modulated tone that you
>hear
> when you test your ELT. It will sound the same. HAM operators test
>their
> radios and antennas with a signal strength meter. If anyone doubts what
>I
> am saying, please ask any HAM radio operator that has done some testing
>on
> their radio's for signal strength for different antenna configurations
>and
> locations. It really matters.
>
> Again, PLEASE do not encourage others to install their ELT antennas in
> locations that limit signal strength. After all, most of us want to be
> found quickly when we need the use of our ELT!
>
> OK, off of my soap box.
>
> Best regards to all,
> Rich
> www.aircraftextras.com
>
>
> > Jack:
> How far were you from the tower when they reported receiving your
>signal?
> Tom Sargent RV-6A
>
> > Jack Lockamy wrote:
> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
> Mike (and others),
> I used the same type ELT antenna (rubber duck) and also mounted it
> under the empennage fairing, mounted facing aft off the rear bulkhead.
> Same results..... tower reported LOUD and CLEAR. The antenna is there
> to stay. In most crashes, the tail is likely to survive better than
> the fuse or wing.... IMHO.
>
>
Learn how to choose, serve, and enjoy wine at Wine @ MSN.
http://wine.msn.com/
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January due to poor
performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My O-360
Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the PC680 I've
noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade then will pick
up
momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air for about 3
hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a 'bad' battery
or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide open....thanks in advance.
Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
Message 15
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Doug... I have one for you. I just finished a panel for a builder here...
It has a Dynon, Altrack, Navaid, EI Engine Analyzer, panel mounted 196,
Garmin and UPS radios... I can take some hi-res photos and give you an
equipment list...
Oh yeah... Bill Mackey's RV-8 flew for the first time on Dec, 17 2003! It
has an Aerosport Power XP360 and Hartzel 74" blended airfoil C/S prop... We
flew it again on Sunday and did some GPS speed runs and were seeing about
210 MPH TAS at 9500', and 2500 RPM... Here's some photos:
http://www.vafml.org/members/bmackey/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Subject: RV-List: Sexy panels
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
> I am writing an article for IFR magazine about all the affordable sexy
stuff
> we have that the spam cans don't. I am looking for a hi-res picture of a
> really hi-tech panel. It would not have to be RV. An emphasis on
> non-certified avionics, autopilot, engine monitoring would be best.
>
> Send them to me directly at dougr@petroblend.com
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
To answer this question you have to know the orientation the plane will be
in after a off field landing. Will it nose over like so many do? Was the
antenna mounted vertically? Vertically mounted creates its own set of
problems, because now the antenna is pointing down with the plane covering
it. There are so many "what ifs", in this senario it is very difficult to
determine the right location.
At 09:10 AM 1/12/04 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <klwerner@comcast.net>
>
>Dear Rich,
>Based on your experience and knowledge with radio waves:
>What location do you recommend/-encourage to install the ELT Antenna for
>best signal performance?
>
>Thanks,
>Konrad
>
>Do not archive (yet)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Richard Meske (SquirrelMail authenticated user rmeske) by
>www.gcfn.org with HTTP ; Mon ; 12 Jan 2004 10:26:51.-0500@matronics.com (EST)
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 8:26 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE
>
>
> Just thought I'd pipe in and say, this bothers me, and should others:
>
> PLEASE do NOT encourage others to install the ELT antennas in the empenage
> fairing. Even though it can be done, it is not a wise choice. If there
> are any HAM operators out there, they'll back me up on the facts.
>
> First of all;
> If, and when you really need this ELT, . . you will certainly want to be
> heard, and found quickly.
>
> Second of all;
> Mounting the ELT antenna in this location severly limits your output signal
> strength. Consider if you crash, you will be on the ground, and maybe in a
> gully of valley somewhere. In this case, you'll need all of the signal
> strength you can muster to be heard and found quickly. The frequencies
> that the ELT uses are mostly line of site communication. The closest tower
> or FSS will most likely be far away. The only person(s) that will hear a
> weak signal will be the guys that normally fly in the air. Even they need
> a good signal to trip their ELT receiving alarm.
>
> If you study up on antennas, you'll quickly find out that an antenna needs
> a good ground plane to work against. Mounting an antenna in the empenage
> fairing does not cut it here. ALSO, the surrounding aircraft frame acts
> like a cage keeping most of the signal strength within the tail section of
> the aircraft. It's almost like building an antenna inside a bird cage, . .
> or like keeping all of the RF inside our microwaves to exaggerate a
> little.
>
> The ELT signal that will leak out of the fiberglass fairing area will be
> weak. You cannot judge this strength by the modulated tone that you hear
> when you test your ELT. It will sound the same. HAM operators test their
> radios and antennas with a signal strength meter. If anyone doubts what I
> am saying, please ask any HAM radio operator that has done some testing on
> their radio's for signal strength for different antenna configurations and
> locations. It really matters.
>
> Again, PLEASE do not encourage others to install their ELT antennas in
> locations that limit signal strength. After all, most of us want to be
> found quickly when we need the use of our ELT!
>
> OK, off of my soap box.
>
> Best regards to all,
> Rich
> www.aircraftextras.com
>
>
> > Jack:
> How far were you from the tower when they reported receiving your signal?
> Tom Sargent RV-6A
>
> > Jack Lockamy wrote:
> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
> Mike (and others),
> I used the same type ELT antenna (rubber duck) and also mounted it
> under the empennage fairing, mounted facing aft off the rear bulkhead.
> Same results..... tower reported LOUD and CLEAR. The antenna is there
> to stay. In most crashes, the tail is likely to survive better than
> the fuse or wing.... IMHO.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 17
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|
Subject: | Re: ELT antenna mounting BAD CHOICE |
01/12/2004 10:20:31 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
what about mounting the ELT antenna on top of the RV8A fuselage lying
against the top of the fuselage next to the rear canopy slider? I have
mounted my ELT and remote unit but not the antenna. Any suggestions would
be welcomed.
Thanks
Glenn
do not archive
Message 18
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|
Subject: | Re: Flap attachment to wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
Thanks, Dan. That makes sense. A dimpled hole is usually larger than the original
and the flap brace thickness is probably right at the limit for countersinking.
That doesn't provide a real good "guide" for drilling the hinge. Maybe if
I just leave it long enough elves will do that part for me. Ha!
Ken
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Yes, but if you've already dimpled & countersunk, it kind of goes against
>the grain of drilling only once...and it risks both enlarging the already
>dimpled/c-sunk holes and misaligning the holes drilled into the hinge.
>Probably is extremely low of that happening, though, so ymmv. Do whatever
>you think works best.
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Flap attachment to wing
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>>
>> I asked a similar question earlier, but I'm still dinking around with
>this. I had an idea and wanted opinions.
>>
>> Dan Checkoway references an excellent article he wrote using extra holes
>to line up the flap brace, bottom skin and hinge (this is for the
>pre-punched kits). In watching the George O videos he mentions
>countersinking the flap brace instead of the hinge just like the bottom of
>the spar on the flap itself.
>>
>> The question, if the flap brace is countersunk and the bottom skin is
>dimpled, wouldn't those two parts nestle together and provide the proper
>alignment to get the hinge drilled?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Ken
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>
>
Message 19
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|
Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
Have been running 680 and 625 for the last three years. Cranks better than
the Concorde and lasts better for me. A friend had an odyssey fail, we
attributed this to the fact that it was run dead several times? Should last
at least two years in normal service!
Hate to belabor the obvious but check all connections and the contactors. I
did have a (firewall mounted) starter solenoid fail in a manner to give your
symptoms. It was making a poor connection due to the slam wear on the big
copper disk inside.
Good luck
Denis
> From: RGray67968@aol.com
> Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 11:48:34 EST
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: PC680 Battery
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
>
> I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January due to poor
> performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My O-360
> Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the PC680 I've
> noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade then will
> pick up
> momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air for about 3
> hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a 'bad' battery
> or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
> replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide open....thanks in
> advance.
> Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
Subject: | Re: ELT antenna mounting RV8A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
As the crow flies, about 20 miles.
Mike R.
>From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna mounting RV8A
>Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 21:54:43 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
>Jack:
> How far were you from the tower when they reported receiving your
>signal?
>--
>Tom Sargent RV-6A
>
>Jack Lockamy wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
> >
> >Mike (and others),
> >
> >I used the same type ELT antenna (rubber duck) and also mounted it under
>the empennage fairing, mounted facing aft off the rear bulkhead. Same
>results..... tower reported LOUD and CLEAR. The antenna is there to stay.
>In most crashes, the tail is likely to survive better than the fuse or
>wing.... IMHO.
> >
> >
>
>
Let the new MSN Premium Internet Software make the most of your high-speed
Message 21
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|
Subject: | ENGINES/PROPS/GOV |
--> RV-List message posted by: gtsio@aol.com
HAVE 0360/IO-360/O540/IO-540 ENGINE/PROPELLER/GOVERENER PACKAGES FOR JUST
ABOUT ANY NEED. PLEASE CONTACT AT GTSIO@AOL.COM
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
At those temps you should REALLY be preheating the oil!!!.......Or are you
doing that already?
At 11:48 AM 1/12/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
>
>I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January due to poor
>performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My O-360
>Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the PC680 I've
>noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade then will
>pick up
>momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air for about 3
>hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a 'bad' battery
>or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
>replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide open....thanks in
>advance.
>Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 23
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Joel,
This is one of those areas that will probably be discussed for eons. Your
friend is technically correct, but it has been determined by the FAA head
legal folks that there is no way at this time to enforce it because prior to
about 1985 engines and propellers were no listed in the FAA registry with
the aircraft's registration. The registration data base is what is used to
send ADs. And because the database is not Completely up-to-date for ALL
aircraft, all owners may not receive ADs, therefore they cannot be held
accountable.
there has been some attempt by certain regions, i.e. the northeastern
region, to make them mandatroy anyways. They have been informed that they
can't arbitrarially do that. I don't know if the word got out to all
inspectors in that region yet, so beware.
In my own opinion, what is probably going to happen sometime in the future
is that a part of your condition inspection will be an AD search and
compliance requirement. That is my opinion only though and it may, or may
not, take some other form, or no form at all.
Mike Robertson
>From: smoothweasel@juno.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: AD compliance
>Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 19:47:15 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
>
> I was chatting with a friend the other day and he made the
>statement that EXPERIMENTAL aircraft are NOT exempt from AD
>compliances....... I did not get involved in a discussion that I am not
>sure of but my thinking is that there is no requirement for them to
>comply.
>
>Joel "Weasel" Graber
>-4 painted as of last weekend
>
>
High-speed usersbe more efficient online with the new MSN Premium Internet
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Geographical location of engines???
Message 25
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|
Subject: | Fuel consumption |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
If you read some of Vans (as well as Theodore Von Karmonn's) old writings on
the subject they mathmatically demonstrate the principle that hull drag is
the major factor in both speed and power/fuel required.
If both hulls are the same, and both are flyin the same, then the available
HP has no bearing on consumption. Now that said, if you add two more
cylinders then one hull will wiegh more than the other, so this will need a
tad more fuel to fly it.
But more power available can get you up there faster and higher, and will
then empty your wallet at a greater rate.
W
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: Aviation Humor & Truism-s |
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
AVIATION HUMOR
Blue water Navy truism: There are more planes in the ocean
than there are submarines in the sky.
If the wings are traveling faster than the fuselage, it's
probably a helicopter -- and therefore, unsafe.
Navy carrier pilots to Air Force pilots: Flaring is like
squatting to pee.
When one engine fails on a twin-engine airplane, you always
have enough power left to get you to the scene of the crash.
Without ammunition, the USAF would be just another expensive
flying club.
What is the similarity between air traffic controllers (ATC)
and pilots? If a pilot screws up, the pilot dies. If ATC
screws up, the pilot dies.
Never trade luck for skill.
The three most common expressions (or famous last words) in
aviation are:
"Why is it doing that?" "Where are we?" and "Oh, s--t!"
Weather forecasts are horoscopes wit! h numbers.
Airspeed, altitude, or brains: two are always needed to
complete the flight successfully.
A smooth landing is mostly luck; two in a row is all luck;
three in a row is prevarication.
Mankind has a perfect record in aviation: we never left one
up there!
Flashlights are tubular metal containers kept in a flight
bag for the purpose of storing dead batteries.
Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your
plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding
it or doing anything about it.
When a flight is proceeding incredibly well, you forgot
something.
Just remember, if you crash because of weather, your funeral
will be held on a sunny day.
Advice given to Royal Air Force pilots during World War II:
When a prang (crash) seems inevitable, endeavor to strike
the softest, cheapest object in the vicinity as slowly and
gently as possible.
The Piper Cub is! the safest airplane in the world: it can
just barely kill you. (Attributed to Max Stanley, Northrop
test pilot) A pilot who doesn't have any fear probably isn't
flying his plane to its maximum. (Jon McBride, astronaut)
If youre faced with a forced landing, fly the thing as far
into the crash as possible. (Bob Hoover - renowned
aerobatic and test pilot) If an airplane is still in one
piece, dont cheat on it. Ride the bastard down. (Ernest
K. Gann, author &aviator)
Though I fly through the Valley of Death, I shall fear no
evil, for I am at 80,000 feet and climbing. (sign over the
entrance to the SR-71 operations area in Kadena, Japan).
You've never been lost until you've been lost at Mach 3.
(Paul F. Crickmore - test pilot)
Never fly in the same cockpit with someone braver than you.
There is no reason to fly through a thunderstorm in
peacetime. (Sign over squadron operations desk at
Davis-Monthan Air Force Base, Arizona, 1970).
Th! e best things in life are a good landing, and a good
bowel movement. The night carrier landing is one of the few
opportunities in life where you get to experience both at
the same time. (Author unknown, but someone who's been
there)
"Now I know what a dog feels like watching TV." (A DC-9
captain trainee attempting to check out on the "glass
cockpit" of an A-320).
If something hasn't broken on your helicopter, it's about
to.
Basic Flying Rules: Try to stay in the middle of the air.
Do not go near the edges of it. The edges of the air can be
recognized by the appearance of ground, buildings, sea,
trees, and interstellar space. It is much more difficult to
fly there.
You know that your landing gear is up and locked when it
takes full power to taxi to the terminal.
Message 27
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Subject: | Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV |
--> RV-List message posted by: gtsio@aol.com
TULSA OKLAHOMA
Message 28
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|
Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Gang,
My RV is kept in a heated hangar so no need to preheat. I just parked it
outside while we did some maintenance on my friends RV. Guess I could've pulled
it
back in.....but gee wiz.....we had 5 other RV's that all sat there
too.....they all started fine.
Again, I have noticed that it's been cranking slow on the 1st blade for a few
months now.
When I jumped it, she cranked big time like a good girl :
).....and when
fired up the volts were normal and amps were charging big time to get the battery
back up to snuff.
Update:
I just called batteries4everthing where I bought the PC680 last year. They
told me they have had like maybe 1 return on this battery in a RV application
that they could remember.....and that this was 'one good battery'.
Then, he told me they had a 2 year free replacement warranty......asked me
for my address.....and told me a replacement would be here UPS in about 3 days!
Ya' might call them when you need a battery.
https://www.batteries4everything.com/index.html
I'm going to give the PC680 one more try......thanks.
Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm....Ohio Valley RVators
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/
for the archives
At those temps you should REALLY be preheating the oil!!!.......Or are you
doing that already?
Message 29
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Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
In a message dated 1/12/2004 11:52:55 AM Eastern Standard Time,
RGray67968@aol.com writes:
> I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January due to
> poor
> performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My O-360
> Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the PC680 I've
>
> noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade then will
> pick up
> momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air for about 3
>
> hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a 'bad'
> battery
> or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
> replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide open....thanks in
> advance.
> Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
>
I have the PC680. Been in the plane for close to two years. I have had zero
trouble but I also keep a trickle charger plugged in year round in the
hanger. The wiring is done under the cowl so I just open the oil door and plug
in
the charger that I bought at the same time as the battery.
On away trips I have had no problems.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
193 hrs
Message 30
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Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Milner" <tldrgred@execpc.com>
I had similar symptoms and it was due to a bad starter. I like my 680 and have
heard only good about them including duration.
Message 31
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Subject: | Re: 4 tank RV-8 question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
I don't have any personal experience with these, but here is
one supplier: http://www.users.on.net/susanb/tip.html
Mickey
At 16:53 12-01-04, Doug Rozendaal wrote:
-----Start of Original Message-----
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
>
>A friend of mine was asked to install 4 tanks, 2 extra outboard, in a RV-8
>for an IFR Commuter for a N.D. to Texas mission. NO Acro. I know this has
>been discussed, or done, any info would be appreciated. I will forward the
>responses to him.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
Message 32
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From: | Richard Meske <rmeske@gcfn.org> (SquirrelMail authenticated user rmeske) by www.gcfn.org with HTTP; Mon, |
12 Jan 2004 13:31:45.-0500@matronics.com (EST)
Subject: | ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position |
What mounting location would I recommend?
Well, yes this is a hard quesution to answer, but . . Here's what I feel.
Use an antenna that is not HARD. In other words, if it is hit or gets
banged around, it will not break easily. I ended up using a soft flexible
steel whip covered with a thin coating of rubber. A rubber duck antenna
will work too. Locate it just on front of the vertically stabilizer.
Locate it about 6 to 9 inches forward so you can still remove your tail
fairing.
Even though this antenna location is not hidden, I like it best because of
the compromizes. If you put the front gear in the mud and tip the plane
over, the tail still protects the antenna. Even touugh the antenna will be
up-side-down, it will still have a good signal strength so you may be found
quickly. It is much better than under the fairing.
You would be surprised, no one has told me that the antenna there looks
bad. It is not really even noticable. I know most people want to hide
antennas, but there is a price to pay for doing this in most cases, . .
performance.
We all hope and pray we never need to use our ELT antennas, but if we
do, . . Let's I hope we made the correct choices for a good location.
Rich
www.aircraftextras.com
> --> RV-List message posted by: <klwerner@comcast.net>
>
> Dear Rich,
> Based on your experience and knowledge with radio waves:
> What location do you recommend/-encourage to install the ELT Antenna
> for best signal performance?
>
Message 33
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Subject: | Props, FARs and ADs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Folks,
I'm a little behind on the list so bear with me if someone has responded in
later iterations.
RE reindexing props. DON'T DO IT. It can be done by changing the position
of the threaded bushings in the prop SAE #2 flanges that lycoming uses on
their crankshafts.
But, the issue is tornsional harmonics. A crankshaft is a long thin steel
noodle with various power pulses being introduced at various locations and
load pulses being introduced at either end and at the various places the
power pulses are occuring. This causes it to twist every so slightly very
rapidly. The frequency of this twisting can hit the natural harmonic
resonance of some portion of this noodle at various RPMs and load
conditions. If the load is high the intensity of the resonance will break
things, so the engine manufacturer either makes non-op ranges for that
particular prop/engine/airframe combo, or they install pendulum counter
weights on the crankshaft to alter the dynamic resonance. If you reindex the
prop you will change when the load pulses occur on one end of the noodle
thereby nullifying all data that was generated by the manufacturers of the
engines and props. If you do this on a certified aircraft you will not pass
GO.
Item two, ADs are a modification to CFR 14 Part 39. They are regulation and
they apply to whatever the author says they apply to, including exps. Now,
ask your local FSDO inspector how the hell they are ever going to enforce an
AD against an EXP or it's engine and they will look at you with a blank
stare.
And finally, with respect to tinted canopies and CFR Part 23, Part 23 does
not apply to EXPs.
Message 34
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|
Subject: | Re: Navaid Autopilot For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
John: I'm interested in the Navaid if you still have it. Question, has it
ever been installed and do you still have the original paperwork that came
with it? I checked with Horace at Navaid this morning and the warranty could be
transferred to me if it has not been installed or operated. Very important to
me because I won't be ready to fly my RV-6 for about a year (hopefully less).
Thanks.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 35
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
Doug,
Here is a link to my web site. www.blueskyaviation.net
I have several very good looking and loaded panels pictured in RV-9A RV-8A
and a good looking strait forward RV-6A.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Subject: RV-List: Sexy panels
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I am writing an article for IFR magazine about all the affordable sexy stuff
we have that the spam cans don't. I am looking for a hi-res picture of a
really hi-tech panel. It would not have to be RV. An emphasis on
non-certified avionics, autopilot, engine monitoring would be best.
Send them to me directly at dougr@petroblend.com
Tailwinds,
Doug
Message 36
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Subject: | Re: Reply to "Navaid Autopilot For Sale" |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
My apologies to all listers. I meant to send my reply to John off list but
goofed.
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 37
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Subject: | ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Locate it just on front of the vertically stabilizer.
>Locate it about 6 to 9 inches forward so you can still remove your tail
>fairing.
>
Uh, yeah...on an RV8? The canopy will snap that sucker right off in a hurry
upon the first opening.
I put the antenna under the fairing, and will do so again on the RV10.
ELT's are placebos for the soul and subject to being trashed with the rest
of the airframe in a serious prang. And, how many of us change our
batteries religiously per FARs anyway?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Find high-speed net deals comparison-shop your local providers here.
https://broadband.msn.com
Message 38
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|
Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Do you have a very slow discharge of the battery?
At 01:21 PM 1/12/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 1/12/2004 11:52:55 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>RGray67968@aol.com writes:
>
>> I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January due to
>> poor
>> performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My O-360
>> Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the PC680
I've
>>
>> noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade then will
>> pick up
>> momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air for
about 3
>>
>> hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a 'bad'
>> battery
>> or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
>> replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide
open....thanks in
>> advance.
>> Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 39
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--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Rick,
Our experience has been that you should probably be counting your blessings
that it DID crank at 3 hours of 12 degrees. I remember the COLD experience
we BOTH had a year ago before we BOTH switched to the PC680. I notice that
when our O-320 gets really cold, we are in fact pushing our luck.
We do not have an engine preheater so we use the old light bulb through the
oil door trick to try to keep some temp around the engine in the NON-heated
hangar. Ken on the other hand has the heating pads on his oil sump and his
oil is kept up around 70-80 degrees I think. As a result, when he calls on
his PC680 to crank his engine ... BAM(!) no problem.
I also picked up a battery "conditioner" from Sears in order to keep the
battery kinda "topped off" and/or with some temp. We will see how this all
works in a day or so. Of course non of this would have help the situation
you mentioned and non of it is probably need in your heated hangar scenario.
Just one perspective on it. I plan to stay with the PC680.
As an aside ... I notice you guys are having WAY TOO MUCH FUN up there
*near* the "Buffalo Farm". :-)
James
trying to get me and the plane recovered from my cold/flu session
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> RGray67968@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 11:49 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: PC680 Battery
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
>
> I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January
> due to poor
> performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My O-360
> Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the
> PC680 I've
> noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade
> then will pick up
> momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air
> for about 3
> hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a
> 'bad' battery
> or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
> replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide
> open....thanks in advance.
> Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
>
>
Message 40
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|
Subject: | ENGINES/PROPS/GOV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
Are you a company or an individual? If a company, what's it's name?
> TULSA OKLAHOMA
Do not archive
Message 41
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|
Subject: | Re: Related to "ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position" |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
On this subject, does anyone know of any data that would indicate how useful
the ELT is in a real crash. Just curious.
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly, finally!
Message 42
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|
Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
Rick,
My first PC680 started giving me problems not long after I started
flying. Symptoms were slow cranking and no cranking if left sitting for
extended periods. I chose to by a new one since the original was over
two years old and had had a hard life. The new one worked great. Then
one day I started having similar slow cranking problems but it always
started. This bothered me to say the least. Then one day I was heading
for lunch with one of the other guys when I noticed my buss voltage was
lower than normal. I played with all the switches, reset the alternator
field and even switched tanks when the one I was flying on went dry and
found nothing changed the voltage. We ate lunch and headed home. I was
then real curious as to what was wrong. I started from the battery and
checked all connections. I found my current limiter ('81 Honda 55 amp
main fuse) had corroded. The little aluminum fuse had exfoliated and
literally fell apart when I touched it. I cleaned up fuse hold down
screws and installed a replacement and all my low voltage and slow
cranking problems went away. I then thought of all the similar problems
I had with my original battery and wondered if maybe it was the charging
issue I just fixed and not the battery. The original batter was checked
and found to have on bad cell.
Moral of the story, check all your connections before placing blame on
the battery.
Gary Zilik
RGray67968@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
>
>I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January due to poor
>performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My O-360
>Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the PC680 I've
>noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade then will pick
up
>momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air for about 3
>hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a 'bad' battery
>or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
>replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide open....thanks in advance.
>Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
>
>
>
>
Message 43
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|
Subject: | ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Rich,
That makes my RV-8A a one-seater!
Terry
Locate it just on front of the vertically stabilizer.
Locate it about 6 to 9 inches forward so you can still remove your tail
fairing.
Rich
www.aircraftextras.com
Message 44
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Does anyone out there plug a trickle charger into their power jack (aka
cig lighter) to charge the battery? I was thinking of do so on my RV-8 --
the front seat jack is on the batt buss.. I haven't seen a charger with
that type of plug though. Are there such things?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
James E. Clark said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>
> Rick,
>
> Our experience has been that you should probably be counting your
> blessings
> that it DID crank at 3 hours of 12 degrees. I remember the COLD experience
> we BOTH had a year ago before we BOTH switched to the PC680. I notice that
> when our O-320 gets really cold, we are in fact pushing our luck.
>
> We do not have an engine preheater so we use the old light bulb through
> the
> oil door trick to try to keep some temp around the engine in the
> NON-heated
> hangar. Ken on the other hand has the heating pads on his oil sump and his
> oil is kept up around 70-80 degrees I think. As a result, when he calls on
> his PC680 to crank his engine ... BAM(!) no problem.
>
> I also picked up a battery "conditioner" from Sears in order to keep the
> battery kinda "topped off" and/or with some temp. We will see how this all
> works in a day or so. Of course non of this would have help the situation
> you mentioned and non of it is probably need in your heated hangar
> scenario.
>
> Just one perspective on it. I plan to stay with the PC680.
>
> As an aside ... I notice you guys are having WAY TOO MUCH FUN up there
> *near* the "Buffalo Farm". :-)
>
>
> James
>
> trying to get me and the plane recovered from my cold/flu session
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>> RGray67968@aol.com
>> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 11:49 AM
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: PC680 Battery
>>
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
>>
>> I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January
>> due to poor
>> performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My O-360
>> Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the
>> PC680 I've
>> noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade
>> then will pick up
>> momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air
>> for about 3
>> hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a
>> 'bad' battery
>> or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
>> replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide
>> open....thanks in advance.
>> Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
Message 45
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|
Subject: | Re: Props, FARs and ADs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
http://www.rvproject.com/m20j/pdfs/service_bulletins/sbm20-206.pdf
The above is a link to the Service Bulletin that Mooney put out in the 70s
describing how to re-index the prop flange bushings to get smoother
operation.
Back in my Mooney days, I had an IO-360-A3B6D, which is an -A1B6D with the
prop flange bushings re-indexed. That sucker ran very smoothly (compared to
another Mooney with an -A1A, I know, apples and oranges).
In any case, Mooney and Lycoming endorsed this conversion, and I flew
hundreds of smooth hours behind it.
Am I going to do it on my -A1B6? Doubt it.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Props, FARs and ADs
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Folks,
>
> I'm a little behind on the list so bear with me if someone has responded
in
> later iterations.
>
> RE reindexing props. DON'T DO IT. It can be done by changing the position
> of the threaded bushings in the prop SAE #2 flanges that lycoming uses on
> their crankshafts.
>
> But, the issue is tornsional harmonics. A crankshaft is a long thin steel
> noodle with various power pulses being introduced at various locations and
> load pulses being introduced at either end and at the various places the
> power pulses are occuring. This causes it to twist every so slightly very
> rapidly. The frequency of this twisting can hit the natural harmonic
> resonance of some portion of this noodle at various RPMs and load
> conditions. If the load is high the intensity of the resonance will break
> things, so the engine manufacturer either makes non-op ranges for that
> particular prop/engine/airframe combo, or they install pendulum counter
> weights on the crankshaft to alter the dynamic resonance. If you reindex
the
> prop you will change when the load pulses occur on one end of the noodle
> thereby nullifying all data that was generated by the manufacturers of the
> engines and props. If you do this on a certified aircraft you will not
pass
> GO.
>
> Item two, ADs are a modification to CFR 14 Part 39. They are regulation
and
> they apply to whatever the author says they apply to, including exps. Now,
> ask your local FSDO inspector how the hell they are ever going to enforce
an
> AD against an EXP or it's engine and they will look at you with a blank
> stare.
>
> And finally, with respect to tinted canopies and CFR Part 23, Part 23 does
> not apply to EXPs.
>
>
Message 46
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|
Subject: | Re: Aviation Humor & Truism-s |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
I think there are more Navy airplanes IN the ocean than in the sky too.
From my first instructor: If flying at night and you lose engine(s), pick a
dark area to land, as you get close turn on the landing light. If you like
what you see land, if you don't, turn off the light.
Little USAF humor. KABONG 8*) Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "P M Condon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Aviation Humor & Truism-s
> AVIATION HUMOR
> Blue water Navy truism: There are more planes in the ocean
> than there are submarines in the sky.
Message 47
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com>
By the time we get agreement on the ELT antenna
location, the PLB will supercede it. Well, actually
it already has. We'll just have to wait for the FAA
to catch up.
A PLB and a handheld transciever will get your butt
rescued a lot quicker than any ELT. I suppose you
could use the ELT batteries to power a signaling
flashlight though.
Mike
do not archive
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
Message 48
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|
Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
The dual-mode charger I'm using is the Battery Tender Jr. (paid $19.95 at
Arizona MotorSports a year or two ago). It comes with a few different
pluggable ends that use a connector to hook up to the charger. It has the
two ring terminal end, which I currently have connected to the battery
terminals (until I'm ready to fly this thing). It also has a pluggable end
with two medium-sized alligator clips.
Anyway, you could cut off the alligator clips and wire it to a male
cigarette lighter plug. No sweat.
My cig lighter is on the main bus, not the battery bus, though...so that
defeats the purpose in my case. But if your cig lighter is on the batt bus
you're set.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: PC680 Battery
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> Does anyone out there plug a trickle charger into their power jack (aka
> cig lighter) to charge the battery? I was thinking of do so on my RV-8 --
> the front seat jack is on the batt buss.. I haven't seen a charger with
> that type of plug though. Are there such things?
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> James E. Clark said:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
<james@nextupventures.com>
> >
> > Rick,
> >
> > Our experience has been that you should probably be counting your
> > blessings
> > that it DID crank at 3 hours of 12 degrees. I remember the COLD
experience
> > we BOTH had a year ago before we BOTH switched to the PC680. I notice
that
> > when our O-320 gets really cold, we are in fact pushing our luck.
> >
> > We do not have an engine preheater so we use the old light bulb through
> > the
> > oil door trick to try to keep some temp around the engine in the
> > NON-heated
> > hangar. Ken on the other hand has the heating pads on his oil sump and
his
> > oil is kept up around 70-80 degrees I think. As a result, when he calls
on
> > his PC680 to crank his engine ... BAM(!) no problem.
> >
> > I also picked up a battery "conditioner" from Sears in order to keep the
> > battery kinda "topped off" and/or with some temp. We will see how this
all
> > works in a day or so. Of course non of this would have help the
situation
> > you mentioned and non of it is probably need in your heated hangar
> > scenario.
> >
> > Just one perspective on it. I plan to stay with the PC680.
> >
> > As an aside ... I notice you guys are having WAY TOO MUCH FUN up there
> > *near* the "Buffalo Farm". :-)
> >
> >
> > James
> >
> > trying to get me and the plane recovered from my cold/flu session
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> >> RGray67968@aol.com
> >> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 11:49 AM
> >> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV-List: PC680 Battery
> >>
> >>
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
> >>
> >> I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January
> >> due to poor
> >> performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My
O-360
> >> Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the
> >> PC680 I've
> >> noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade
> >> then will pick up
> >> momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air
> >> for about 3
> >> hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a
> >> 'bad' battery
> >> or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
> >> replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide
> >> open....thanks in advance.
> >> Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
>
>
Message 49
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Subject: | Re: Aux Oil Pump |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>Bart at AeroSport Power recommends a pre-heater over a pre-oiler. I have
>one of the pumps from Infinity Aerospace. There is a lot of plumbing
>envolved and one way valves. I have not installed it. I can sell it to you
>for half price if your interested.
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
I wonder what new failure modes all this plumbing and one-way valves
introduce. Maybe the increased risk of an oil problem would over weigh the
small benefit of pre-oiling.
Kevin Horton
Message 50
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|
Subject: | Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
In a message dated 01/12/2004 10:13:59 AM Pacific Standard Time,
gtsio@aol.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: gtsio@aol.com
TULSA OKLAHOMA
Keeping this information exchange to your apparent limited level, who are you?
Message 51
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
I installed a small plug in the sub-panel of my -4. I then cut the
alligator clips from the leads on my trickle charger and installed the
mating connector. Now I can easily plug my trickle charger into the outlet
on the panel to charge the battery.
One could use a cigarette lighter receptacle for the same purpose, but I am
never satisified with the quality of connection. I also carry in my tool
kit a connecter with short pigtails wires should I be "on the road" and need
to charge my battery using someone else's charger.
Good luck,
Dean
>From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: PC680 Battery
>Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 14:45:01 -0500 (EST)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
>Does anyone out there plug a trickle charger into their power jack (aka
>cig lighter) to charge the battery? I was thinking of do so on my RV-8 --
>the front seat jack is on the batt buss.. I haven't seen a charger with
>that type of plug though. Are there such things?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry@BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>James E. Clark said:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
><james@nextupventures.com>
> >
> > Rick,
> >
> > Our experience has been that you should probably be counting your
> > blessings
> > that it DID crank at 3 hours of 12 degrees. I remember the COLD
>experience
> > we BOTH had a year ago before we BOTH switched to the PC680. I notice
>that
> > when our O-320 gets really cold, we are in fact pushing our luck.
> >
> > We do not have an engine preheater so we use the old light bulb through
> > the
> > oil door trick to try to keep some temp around the engine in the
> > NON-heated
> > hangar. Ken on the other hand has the heating pads on his oil sump and
>his
> > oil is kept up around 70-80 degrees I think. As a result, when he calls
>on
> > his PC680 to crank his engine ... BAM(!) no problem.
> >
> > I also picked up a battery "conditioner" from Sears in order to keep the
> > battery kinda "topped off" and/or with some temp. We will see how this
>all
> > works in a day or so. Of course non of this would have help the
>situation
> > you mentioned and non of it is probably need in your heated hangar
> > scenario.
> >
> > Just one perspective on it. I plan to stay with the PC680.
> >
> > As an aside ... I notice you guys are having WAY TOO MUCH FUN up there
> > *near* the "Buffalo Farm". :-)
> >
> >
> > James
> >
> > trying to get me and the plane recovered from my cold/flu session
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> >> RGray67968@aol.com
> >> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 11:49 AM
> >> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV-List: PC680 Battery
> >>
> >>
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
> >>
> >> I installed a PC680 battery (recommended right here) last January
> >> due to poor
> >> performance of my previous battery during the cold wx starting. My
>O-360
> >> Warnke RV6 is kept in a heated hangar. After only 1 year with the
> >> PC680 I've
> >> noticed that it wants to crank over rather slow for the 1st blade
> >> then will pick up
> >> momentum. Saturday I left my plane sit out in the 12deg cold air
> >> for about 3
> >> hours and the battery just about gave up the ghost. Did I get a
> >> 'bad' battery
> >> or what? This is unacceptable in my opinion. Not sure whether to get a
> >> replacement PC680 or change over to the Concorde. I'm wide
> >> open....thanks in advance.
> >> Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
>
>
Message 52
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|
Subject: | Re: AD compliance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I will go even further than Mike. I suggested that the FAA track the
equipment list by aircraft. I even sent my equipment list to the FAA so I
could get ALL the Ads for my airplane. You see equipment over the years
gets changed. For example, my Franklin engine has had 3 different brands of
Magnetos. The Carburetor has had 4 different type floats. Do I get Ads for
these items? NO.
Fortunately, I can check my equipment for ADs as the FAA claims they can't
up-date their data base. This used to be a valid excuse but I could easily
do it with my home computer as the power of home computers is much better
than any computer of the 70s or 80s.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: AD compliance
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
> Joel,
>
> This is one of those areas that will probably be discussed for eons. Your
> friend is technically correct, but it has been determined by the FAA head
> legal folks that there is no way at this time to enforce it because prior
to
> about 1985 engines and propellers were no listed in the FAA registry with
> the aircraft's registration. The registration data base is what is used
to
> send ADs. And because the database is not Completely up-to-date for ALL
> aircraft, all owners may not receive ADs, therefore they cannot be held
> accountable.
>
> there has been some attempt by certain regions, i.e. the northeastern
> region, to make them mandatroy anyways. They have been informed that they
> can't arbitrarially do that. I don't know if the word got out to all
> inspectors in that region yet, so beware.
>
> In my own opinion, what is probably going to happen sometime in the future
> is that a part of your condition inspection will be an AD search and
> compliance requirement. That is my opinion only though and it may, or may
> not, take some other form, or no form at all.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
> >From: smoothweasel@juno.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: AD compliance
> >Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 19:47:15 -0600
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
> >
> > I was chatting with a friend the other day and he made the
> >statement that EXPERIMENTAL aircraft are NOT exempt from AD
> >compliances....... I did not get involved in a discussion that I am not
> >sure of but my thinking is that there is no requirement for them to
> >comply.
> >
> >Joel "Weasel" Graber
> >-4 painted as of last weekend
> >
> >
>
> High-speed usersbe more efficient online with the new MSN Premium Internet
>
>
Message 53
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|
Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Larry Bowen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
>Does anyone out there plug a trickle charger into their power jack (aka
>cig lighter) to charge the battery? I was thinking of do so on my RV-8 --
>the front seat jack is on the batt buss..
>
Directly? Or through the master solenoid? If direct, no problem, but
the solenoid will be a killer.
> I haven't seen a charger with
>that type of plug though. Are there such things?
>
Not out of the box! Radio Shack has the cigarette lighter adapter.
Just cut the normal clips off the trickle charger. Keep track of which
wire is to the red clip and black clip. Attach the wires to the adapter
..... red is the center, and black is the side spring. Hope this helps.
Linn
Do not archive
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry@BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>
Message 54
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|
"'RV-List Digest Server '" <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
Subject: | Re: Props, FARs and ADs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
But the DAR can write it up in the operational limitations. AND can refuse
to provide an Airworthiness Certificate using any FAR he decides that you
haven't met.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Props, FARs and ADs
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Folks,
>
> I'm a little behind on the list so bear with me if someone has responded
in
> later iterations.
>
> RE reindexing props. DON'T DO IT. It can be done by changing the position
> of the threaded bushings in the prop SAE #2 flanges that lycoming uses on
> their crankshafts.
>
> But, the issue is tornsional harmonics. A crankshaft is a long thin steel
> noodle with various power pulses being introduced at various locations and
> load pulses being introduced at either end and at the various places the
> power pulses are occuring. This causes it to twist every so slightly very
> rapidly. The frequency of this twisting can hit the natural harmonic
> resonance of some portion of this noodle at various RPMs and load
> conditions. If the load is high the intensity of the resonance will break
> things, so the engine manufacturer either makes non-op ranges for that
> particular prop/engine/airframe combo, or they install pendulum counter
> weights on the crankshaft to alter the dynamic resonance. If you reindex
the
> prop you will change when the load pulses occur on one end of the noodle
> thereby nullifying all data that was generated by the manufacturers of the
> engines and props. If you do this on a certified aircraft you will not
pass
> GO.
>
> Item two, ADs are a modification to CFR 14 Part 39. They are regulation
and
> they apply to whatever the author says they apply to, including exps. Now,
> ask your local FSDO inspector how the hell they are ever going to enforce
an
> AD against an EXP or it's engine and they will look at you with a blank
> stare.
>
> And finally, with respect to tinted canopies and CFR Part 23, Part 23 does
> not apply to EXPs.
>
>
Message 55
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|
Subject: | Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV |
--> RV-List message posted by: gtsio@aol.com
INDIVIDUAL. I HAVE A CLIENTALE OF ABOUT 150 CUSTOMERS I HAVE SOLD TO. I AM A
23 YEAR PILOT MYSELF. BUT ONLY DO IT AS A HOBBY.I HAVE 17 PROP SHOPS I DEAL
WITH AND ABOUT THAT MANY ENGINE SHOPS.
Message 56
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|
Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi James,
Putting the light bulb in through the cooling air outlet area so that it
resides under the oil pan (if access is possible?) should improve the engine
heating effect for log time or overnight storage.
If you have a standard wall outlet to supply lighting it should or might
also support the use of a hair drier.
I have an all metal Hobbyist's hot air gun that I use for heat shinking the
wiring I'm presently doing that was less that $30.00 to buy and puts out
more heat than a hairdyer.
Try this:
Bend some coat hanger wire so as to support a 1500 watt hairdryer or the
heat guin described above safely in place in the cowling cooling air outlet.
Put inlet air plugs in place and close the oil door. Throw a cargo blanket,
or what have you, over the cowling and turn on the hairdryer. Wait 20 to 60
minutes depending on ambient air temp.
A surprising amount of heat will be generated and held in the cowling so
take care toward safety issues. Leave the blanket off if you intend to
leave the aircraft unattended during the preheat period.
Pre heating this way in a closed (wind protected hangar) area should get the
job done in quite cold climate conditions.
Keep warm,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: PC680 Battery
> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>
> Rick,
>
> Our experience has been that you should probably be counting your
blessings
> that it DID crank at 3 hours of 12 degrees. I remember the COLD experience
> we BOTH had a year ago before we BOTH switched to the PC680. I notice that
> when our O-320 gets really cold, we are in fact pushing our luck.
>
> We do not have an engine preheater so we use the old light bulb through
the
> oil door trick to try to keep some temp around the engine in the
NON-heated
> hangar. Ken on the other hand has the heating pads on his oil sump and his
> oil is kept up around 70-80 degrees I think. As a result, when he calls on
> his PC680 to crank his engine ... BAM(!) no problem.
>
> I also picked up a battery "conditioner" from Sears in order to keep the
> battery kinda "topped off" and/or with some temp. We will see how this all
> works in a day or so. Of course non of this would have help the situation
> you mentioned and non of it is probably need in your heated hangar
scenario.
>
> Just one perspective on it. I plan to stay with the PC680.
>
> As an aside ... I notice you guys are having WAY TOO MUCH FUN up there
> *near* the "Buffalo Farm". :-)
>
>
> James
>
> trying to get me and the plane recovered from my cold/flu session
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> > RGray67968@aol.com
> > Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 11:49 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: PC680 Battery
Message 57
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Subject: | Re: ENGINES/PROPS/GOV |
--> RV-List message posted by: gtsio@aol.com
IF YOU WANT TO SPEAK WITH ME PLEASE FILL FREE TO CALL ME.
DOUG WORK
918-734-7646
Message 58
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Okay Mike, how about more on the PLB...
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: ELTs
> --> RV-List message posted by: flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com>
>
> By the time we get agreement on the ELT antenna
> location, the PLB will supercede it. Well, actually
> it already has. We'll just have to wait for the FAA
> to catch up.
>
> A PLB and a handheld transciever will get your butt
> rescued a lot quicker than any ELT. I suppose you
> could use the ELT batteries to power a signaling
> flashlight though.
>
> Mike
>
> do not archive
>
> __________________________________
> http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
>
>
Message 59
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|
Subject: | Re: PC680 Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Jim Jewell wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
> Hi James,
> If you have a standard wall outlet to supply lighting it should or might
> also support the use of a hair drier.
> I have an all metal Hobbyist's hot air gun that I use for heat shinking the
> wiring I'm presently doing that was less that $30.00 to buy and puts out
> more heat than a hairdyer.
<snip>
Just hope there are no fuel fumes in the engine compartment while the
red-hot element of the heat gun is on! :-)
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
Message 60
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|
<rv-list@matronics.com>
Subject: | Wow... Weee... Wayne |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Okay Guys & Gals,
I just had my first aerobatic "lesson" from Wayne Handley in his Extra 300L. I've seen him fly many times before, but never had the honor/opportunity to get one-on-one instruction from him. Wayne is a GREAT instructor. And I apparently don't have too many engrained bad habits. If you're interested go to www.waynehandley.com he's reasonably priced (for his experience, skill & knowledge level) if you're located somewhere close to central California. God that 300L flys nice, good acceleration, quick roll-rate, and overall very responsive! It has all the amenities of a Lexus; and I thought I liked Rockets a lot. It kinda' feels like I've been cheating on my best gal (my RV-4); but Hell I've gotten over "that feeling" before.
Well what can I say... Wayne says I got "okay" rolls, "almost perfect" loops
(he showed me how to make 'em watermelons or elliptical, or just about any
shape), good half-cubans, good stalls/spins, lousy knife edges, as well as so/so
immelmans & split "S"es. Next time we're gonna work on hammerheads, inverted
flat spins, out side loops, and some other harder negative G stuff like that...
maybe even a "Lumpy Chek" if I can get through/learn real snap rolls.
This time, during our lunch break, we went for Mexican. I had a large burrito
that later kept causing me to burp after anything around 4 G's (thank goodness
I was flyin' back seat with the eyeball vents opened & the heat on).
Okay, now I can no longer brag that "I'm completely self taught" when it comes
to aerobatics; but I can say I'm still learning, I'm getting better, and my
maneuvers are crisper/cleaner. I HIGHLY recommend Wayne Handley and can say
(now from experience) that although being self-taught is cheap and not necessarily
bad per se... it's definitely not the best way to go. Having someone
who KNOWS their stuff (as Wayne certainly does) accelerates the learning curve
and virtually eliminates the adrenaline caused by the fear factor (but there's
still enough adrenaline pumping so you can still get your fix). Take care
& Take air my friends,
Chuck
skinny, dumb & happy.... DNA
do not archive
Message 61
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|
Subject: | Re: ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Brian Denk wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>I put the antenna under the fairing, and will do so again on the RV10.
>ELT's are placebos for the soul and subject to being trashed with the rest
>of the airframe in a serious prang.
>
Here's hoping you don't live to regret your pearls of wisdom.
>And, how many of us change our
>batteries religiously per FARs anyway?
>
>Brian Denk
>
P.S.
I change batteries not only religiously, but legally.
Bob
Do not archive
Message 62
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|
Subject: | Re: Jeppesen Skybound II NavCard Datawritter |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kai Schumann <kai92117@yahoo.com>
While I have no experience with the Jeppesen service,
I have used Virtual PC on my G4 powerbook to run
PCMCIA cards intended for PC use. Shove the card in
the slot, and the computer will immediately recognize
it for use (If you've used Virtual PC for any length
of time you'll already know it will be much slower
than a regular PC. The term "Windoze" really does
apply here). I'm afraid we are in a vast minority here
running Mac's, so the only way to really know will be
to just try it to see if it works.
Kai Schumann
Still researching what to build
Do not archive
--- "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds"
> <rvreynolds@macs.net>
>
> Can I use a Macintosh with Virtual PC to run the
> Jeppesen Skybound II
> service?
>
> What interface "cable or device" do I use for the
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>
> Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, almost there!
>
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Message 63
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Subject: | ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
OK Bob, what is your suggestion for the location of an ELT antenna in an
RV-8? Top of the Canopy? Top of the vertical stabilizer? On a wing? On
the bottom of the fuselage? Inside a wingtip? There is no distance between
the back of the canopy and the bottom of the vertical stabilizer - they
overlap. I've ELT antennas installed in two locations: on the bulkhead
behind the rear seat, bent around in an arc to match the top skin of the
fuselage; and under the empennage fairing as previously described. I
haven't installed mine yet, so if you have a better idea I would sure like
to hear it.
Terry
RV-8A wiring
Seattle
-----Original Message-----On Behalf Of Bob U.
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Brian Denk wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>I put the antenna under the fairing, and will do so again on the RV10.
>ELT's are placebos for the soul and subject to being trashed with the rest
>of the airframe in a serious prang.
>
Here's hoping you don't live to regret your pearls of wisdom.
>And, how many of us change our
>batteries religiously per FARs anyway?
>
>Brian Denk
>
P.S.
I change batteries not only religiously, but legally.
Bob
Do not archive
Message 64
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Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 01/11/04 |
--> RV-List message posted by: PSPRV6A@aol.com
Reference gear teeth & size of starter gears.
Keep in mind that the size of the gear and the number of teeth are not
necessarily linked in lock step. It is entirely possible to cut a few percent
extra or short on the number of teeth without changing the pitch diameter!!!
This is all done with standard cutters!
This is a quite "deep" subject but trust me. I have had pairs of gears
cut at exactly the same effective pitch diameter with one, two or three extra
teeth. Makes a high-ratio reduction unit when meshed with a single pinion!!
To relate gear diameter to number of teeth requires that you be certain that
they were cut to standard pitch diameters. Non-standards can be cut with
standard hobbs! Don't ask me how I know---it's a loooong story.
Paul S.
Petersen RV6A 90% done, ? to go.
Message 65
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Subject: | Re: Wow... Weee... Wayne |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
Hey Chuck, how much money and how much time? I am in need of a tune up.
Cash
Do not archive
Message 66
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Subject: | Re: ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Terry Watson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
>OK Bob, what is your suggestion for the location of an ELT antenna in an
>RV-8? Top of the Canopy? Top of the vertical stabilizer? On a wing? On
>the bottom of the fuselage? Inside a wingtip? There is no distance between
>the back of the canopy and the bottom of the vertical stabilizer - they
>overlap. I've ELT antennas installed in two locations: on the bulkhead
>behind the rear seat, bent around in an arc to match the top skin of the
>fuselage; and under the empennage fairing as previously described. I
>haven't installed mine yet, so if you have a better idea I would sure like
>to hear it.
>
>Terry
>RV-8A wiring
>Seattle
>
I'm not suggesting a specific location since what I responded to was/is
a *dangerous attitude*, IMO.
Here it is again...
"ELT's are placebos for the soul......."
"And, how many of us change our
batteries religiously per FARs anyway?"
Such an attitude call even spill over into other areas where safety should remain
a premium. It is my opinion that such remarks should not go unaddressed in
a forum like ours... lest it taint others who might otherwise maintain the highest
regard for safety and rescue. Call me annal, but I've survived 50 years of
flight and not all of it has been just dumb luck.
Bob - carrying a cell phone on every flight
Message 67
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--> RV-List message posted by: larry gobin <edge540t@direcway.com>
Is there a back set available that's about 10" or 12'' long. I have the one
that's 3 1/2'' with the spring on it
Message 68
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Subject: | Re: Back Rivet Set |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
Avery has a long one with a slight crook in it to back rivet the wing skins.
I, like many people I read about, didn't really care for it in that
application. It doesn't ahve the spring loaded end, just a cupped out flat
section to make the shop head. But it will work if you need to reach a back
rivet area. There may be others as well.
----- Original Message -----
From: "larry gobin" <edge540t@direcway.com>
Subject: RV-List: Back Rivet Set
> --> RV-List message posted by: larry gobin <edge540t@direcway.com>
>
> Is there a back set available that's about 10" or 12'' long. I have the
one
> that's 3 1/2'' with the spring on it
>
>
Message 69
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Subject: | Re: Back Rivet Set |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Larry:
Avery's has a 10 1/2 inch backrivet set part Number 4580. Go to
www.averytools.com
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
Panel
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "larry gobin" <edge540t@direcway.com>
Subject: RV-List: Back Rivet Set
> --> RV-List message posted by: larry gobin <edge540t@direcway.com>
>
> Is there a back set available that's about 10" or 12'' long. I have the
one
> that's 3 1/2'' with the spring on it
>
>
Message 70
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Subject: | Re: Related to "ELT antenna mounting Sugg. Position" |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
HCRV6@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
>On this subject, does anyone know of any data that would indicate how useful
>the ELT is in a real crash. Just curious.
>
>Do not archive
>
>Harry Crosby
>
>
Harry:
You have good point. But I guess they're better than nothing.
At the suggestion of Gus at Van's I put my ELT and its antenna on my
wing end-rib under the fiberglass wingtip. The antenna uses the end rib
as its ground plane. I actually tested it with an SWR meter and it's
pretty good. The fiberglass wing tip is not quite wide enough for it to
stick out completely straight, but it's a flexible antenna, so it bends
over (like a bent whip). True, it does have a greater chance of getting
smashed in an a crash, but if it does survive the crash it will probably
have much better antenna performance than most ELT installations I have
seen. And of course, it has no drag.
Before we get all worked up over this, you have to realize that
there is some black art in antenna design. Yes, as a rule you want an
antenna to have a good, flat ground plane and you want no other
conductors within half a wavelength from the antenna (about a meter).
As a rule, failure to do this reduces antenna efficiency and badly
distorts the antenna transmission pattern. Sometimes, they'll surprise
you, though.
I made my choice. It's your plane. You look at the trade-offs and
make your own decision.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A (canopy)
Message 71
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--> RV-List message posted by: flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com>
For info on PLBs, see:
http://www.equipped.com/faq_plb/default.asp?Action=Cat&ID=2
This site has some very interesting info on survival
equipment and strategies. There is a section on
aviation survival techniques and reviews of equipment.
http://www.equipped.org/
Mike
do not archive
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
Message 72
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
I think the satellites are monitoring ELT's now. We are out in the
boonies , 50 miles from a large town and on several occasions our
airport manager has gotten calls from Flight Service that there is an
ELT going off on our airport. usually it has been a medical helicopter
across the road. a few times it has been an airplane on the field , but
it comes in pretty quick, usually less than half hour when it happens
and they have the area very well pinpointed to within a quarter mile..
Phil.
flmike wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com>
>
>By the time we get agreement on the ELT antenna
>location, the PLB will supercede it. Well, actually
>it already has. We'll just have to wait for the FAA
>to catch up.
>
>A PLB and a handheld transciever will get your butt
>rescued a lot quicker than any ELT. I suppose you
>could use the ELT batteries to power a signaling
>flashlight though.
>
>Mike
>
>
Message 73
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Subject: | Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
The MicroAir radio and xpdr use 8-36 thread screws which is not common. Does anyone
know of a source for these. I need 8 and would prefer countersunk brass
screws but might have to consider other if forced to.
Thanks for help,
Rick Fogerson
RV3 wiring
Boise, ID
Message 74
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Subject: | Grand Rapids EIS 4000 MAP sensor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Grand Rapids recommends placing the MAP sensor in the cockpit because it uses a
plastic case. I'm not going to because I've gone to a lot of effort and some
$'s to protect the cockpit from engine fires. Placing the sensor in the cockpit
means you would have to bring a manifold pressure hose through the firewall.
Has anyone else had any good or bad experience with this sensor in the engine
compartment.
thanks,
Rick Fogerson
Boise, ID
RV3 wiring
Message 75
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Subject: | Re: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
McMaster Carr sells 8-36 screws, but only in the socket head cap form
factor, not a pan-head machine screw. See page 2898 of McMaster's online
catalog. For example, part #91251A494. http://www.mcmaster.com
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Subject: RV-List: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
>
> The MicroAir radio and xpdr use 8-36 thread screws which is not common.
Does anyone know of a source for these. I need 8 and would prefer
countersunk brass screws but might have to consider other if forced to.
> Thanks for help,
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 wiring
> Boise, ID
>
>
Message 76
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Subject: | Re: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Ah...found what you're looking for:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/gotopage.php?page=94
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics
> McMaster Carr sells 8-36 screws, but only in the socket head cap form
> factor, not a pan-head machine screw. See page 2898 of McMaster's online
> catalog. For example, part #91251A494. http://www.mcmaster.com
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
> To: "RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>; <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 9:18 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
> >
> > The MicroAir radio and xpdr use 8-36 thread screws which is not common.
> Does anyone know of a source for these. I need 8 and would prefer
> countersunk brass screws but might have to consider other if forced to.
> > Thanks for help,
> > Rick Fogerson
> > RV3 wiring
> > Boise, ID
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Message 77
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Subject: | Re: Brass Instrument Screws for MicroAir avionics |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 1/12/2004 9:26:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rickf@cableone.net writes:
The MicroAir radio and xpdr use 8-36 thread screws which is not common. Does
anyone know of a source for these. I need 8 and would prefer countersunk
brass screws but might have to consider other if forced to.
Rick-
Actually they are common 4mm coarse thread screws and you can probably get
them at Olander in Stainless Steel. I don't know if they have the black oxided
brass.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 675 hrs)
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