Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:34 AM - Re: Static pressure line drain (Jerry Springer)
2. 07:33 AM - Re: Re: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming (lucky macy)
3. 07:43 AM - Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery (Ross Mickey)
4. 07:45 AM - Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery (Ross Mickey)
5. 08:16 AM - Cancel (WCruiser1@aol.com)
6. 08:46 AM - Re: Log Book entries (sdavis12)
7. 09:38 AM - SourceForSmallCopperTs (DAVID REEL)
8. 10:17 AM - Re: SourceForSmallCopperTs (linn walters)
9. 10:19 AM - Re: Re: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming (Robert E. Lynch)
10. 10:48 AM - Re: Canopy (Neil McLeod)
11. 11:30 AM - Re: SourceForSmallCopperTs (Larry Bowen)
12. 11:46 AM - Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery (Sam Buchanan)
13. 01:00 PM - Re: Canopy (Jim and Bev Cone)
14. 01:05 PM - Re: Re: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming (bryan hooks)
15. 01:22 PM - Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery (N67BT@aol.com)
16. 01:38 PM - Turbo Carb (Wheeler North)
17. 02:17 PM - Re: Canopy (Tom Gummo)
18. 05:59 PM - Top mounted antenna (Doug Weiler)
19. 07:11 PM - Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery (David Carter)
20. 07:27 PM - Re: Static pressure line drain (David Carter)
21. 07:57 PM - Static pressure line drain (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
22. 08:25 PM - Re: Top mounted antenna (Sam Buchanan)
23. 08:45 PM - Re: Top mounted antenna (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Static pressure line drain |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Jim Jewell wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
>Hi Pete,
>
>How often have you found it necessary to use the drain so far?
>Do you have a separate fitting at a higher location for alternate static
>air.
>I am being told that condensation gets in the line and represents a blocking
>hazard due to freezing and also a moisture threat to instruments. I don't
>doubt this happens but I do wonder how commonly it actually requires
>attention.
>
>Jim in Kelowna
>
>
>
In fifteen years not once. :-) But then I don't have a drain system.
Jerry
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Well, it unfortunately didn't really get specific on most of my questions
and probably raised as many questions as it answers.
The http://www.fadec.com/overview.html page seems to be cut off at the
bottom and missing information - it ends in mid sentence.
Probably near the top of questions would be why would Mattituck sell this
with an O-360 since it seems to be designed to work with Fuel Injection and
I'm not sure it would be worth it on anything else.
Actually, I'm not sure it looks like it would be worth it at all. Did I
miss some type of cost analysis comparison betweein cost/op cost of standard
vs generic electronic ignition vs FADEC system? I didn't see a specific
discussion on how engine overhauls showed any difference in part
wear/longevity, any of that type of specific info a homebuilder could relate
to.
Any links to folks who retrofitted to FADEC on RVs? Testimonials would
probable be he deciding factor for me. Any 8's flying with this?
Installation pictures availabe?
Thanks again,
Lucky
>From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: RV8ter@aol.com, rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming
>Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 16:33:48 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
>
>
>See
>www.fadec.com
>Then let the quiestions begin!
>
>ERic--
>GodSpeed Aviation
>
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: RV8ter@aol.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming
>Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 09:40:11 EST
>
>Eric, what luck to know you were a part of that FADEC design.
>
>I heard someone say recently that with a FADEC system installed on a O-360,
>you bring that Lycosaur design up to modern times in that you can burn
>mogas
>as
>well as 100LL, appreciable fuel burn rate reduction, measurably smoother,
>etc, etc.
>
>But someone else coutered with something like "maybe, but you have to more
>careful with prop selection (power pulses very different?) and that's if
>you
>can
>get it to work right, etc". Apparently fielded units are supposedly
>received
>with mixed results?
>
>Anyway, it's all new and news to me.
>
>Does it only work with an IO setup?
>
>Can you clear the fog up on that FADEC system and give us your inside
>opinion
>on the practical pros and cons of buying that option and it's proper use
>and
>care and whether it's what you would do?
>
>If that's all spelled out somewhere then sorry for the bother and could you
>send me a link? :-)
>
>thanks,
>lucky
>
>In a message dated 2/13/2004 9:26:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>ericparlow@hotmail.com writes:
>also did the work on the TCM FADEC for the Lycoming IOF-360 that Mattituck
>sells.
>This is my only experience with how the Lycomig performs.
>
>The major issue is designing a turbine wastegate to regulate the boost.
>I assume you want to turbo normalize. i.e. maintain 160 bhp to 17,500ft.
>
>Give me call and let's talk.
>
>ERic--
>GodSpeed Aviation
>(828) 777-7976
>
>Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN.
>http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
>
>
Optimize your Internet experience to the max with the new MSN Premium
Internet Software. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200359ave/direct/01/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> Do you have the remote magnetometer?
Yes
>Is it on a different power bus from the Dynon?
No. When I got the internal battery, I took the Dynon off my essential bus.
I will now be putting it back on the essential.
>Could it be that the mag remained powered up during the fuel stop which
caused a crash when the EFIS came back on line?
No. When I shut down, I turned off the power that is common to both units.
Thge only odd thing that happened before startup was that I accidentally
turned the main power switch on while I was rummaging around in the plane,
I MAY have turned the power off while the boot screen was on. When I turned
the main power on, it switched to internal power and the blue screen
remained. I did not think of this before I sent the unit in for repairs.
In any case, I will be doing without the internal battery.
> If not, you probably just have a sick unit and I am sure a healthy one is
on the way to you.
I hope so. The weather is supposed to break on Thursday.
Ross
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: <N67BT@aol.com>
> If this continues to be a problem why not splice a switch into the
internal
> battery lead and bring the wire out through the cover?
>
> Bob Trumpfheller
I have not looked at the wiring of the internal battery so I don't know if
this is easy to do. I don't think I would want to dig into the guts of the
unit and mess with this especially since I have a main bus/essential bus
with SD-8 backup. The internal battery was a fourth line of defense that
now seems to be a liability.
Ross
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: WCruiser1@aol.com
Please cancel my enrollment in the RV list as I have changed internet providers
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Log Book entries |
--> RV-List message posted by: "sdavis12" <sdavis12@midsouth.rr.com>
Paul,
I think I have fixed the problem but I have sent the new exe to 1 of the
people that has had the file conversion error, I want to be sure it works
before I send it up to the website. I will do this as soon as I hear from
him.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Log Book entries
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
>
> This document is available in the new version of Kitlog Pro, or it is
> available here:
>
>
http://www2.faa.gov/certification/aircraft/av-info/dst/amateur/8130.2chap4se
c7.pdf
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold
> RV-10 Soon
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Log Book entries
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> >
> >
> > FAA order 8130.2E(or latest rev) chapter 7 section 134 gives you the
> wording
> > for exp phase and aerobatic logbook entries. This should match what your
> > limitations say as well since this order was intended to drive the
wording
> > used in the limitations.
> >
> > W
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | SourceForSmallCopperTs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Has anyone else had trouble finding copper T sweat fittings for 1/8 inch outside
diameter copper tubing? I'm using this in my primer system. I've tried plumbing
and refrigeration companies & both types say the 1/4 inch outside diameter
is the smallest they or others in their line of business can obtain. I'm located
in the Washington, DC area.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: SourceForSmallCopperTs |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
DAVID REEL wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
>Has anyone else had trouble finding copper T sweat fittings for 1/8 inch outside
diameter copper tubing? I'm using this in my primer system. I've tried plumbing
and refrigeration companies & both types say the 1/4 inch outside diameter
is the smallest they or others in their line of business can obtain. I'm
located in the Washington, DC area.
>
>Dave Reel - RV8A
>
Hmmm. Never thought of sweat-solder for small tubing ..... they make
nice compression fittings for that. If you still want to go that route,
though, You might investigate making your own Ts from small brass tubing
and sweating those to the copper lines.
Silver solder should be stronger than the tin/lead type, and adding a
triangle to stiffen the joint might be productive.
Linn
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch@earthlink.net>
Lucky
Yes to all the above.
Dave
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: Neil McLeod <neilmcleod@direcway.com>
I found bits and pieces of these instructions in the archives but
appearently not the whole thing. Does anybody have a full copy they could
post or maybe get Doug to put up on his site?
Neil McLeod
7 QB FWF and Finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
>
> If you check the archives you will find Jim Cone's one man installation
instructions that are very helpful. I know this because I wrote them and
have fitted two canopies by myself and helped on several others. The short
answer as to where to cut the canopy is to turn the canopy upside down and
lay the sliding part of the frame in the "tub". It will fit well in only
one place. Mark this with a marker, remove the frame and cut away. I am
just at this point on my new 7A and plan to use the instructions again.
>
> Jim Cone
> 3-peat offender
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | SourceForSmallCopperTs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I got all compression fittings needed from Wicks. I'm using 1/8 copper
tube for MAP input.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DAVID REEL [mailto:dreel@cox.net]
> Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2004 12:40 PM
> To: rvlist
> Subject: RV-List: SourceForSmallCopperTs
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> Has anyone else had trouble finding copper T sweat fittings
> for 1/8 inch outside diameter copper tubing? I'm using this
> in my primer system. I've tried plumbing and refrigeration
> companies & both types say the 1/4 inch outside diameter is
> the smallest they or others in their line of business can
> obtain. I'm located in the Washington, DC area.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Ross Mickey wrote:
>>Could it be that the mag remained powered up during the fuel stop which
>
> caused a crash when the EFIS came back on line?
>
> No. When I shut down, I turned off the power that is common to both units.
> Thge only odd thing that happened before startup was that I accidentally
> turned the main power switch on while I was rummaging around in the plane,
> I MAY have turned the power off while the boot screen was on. When I turned
> the main power on, it switched to internal power and the blue screen
> remained. I did not think of this before I sent the unit in for repairs.
> In any case, I will be doing without the internal battery.
Ross, I really suspect a power event such as you described caused the
crash of your Dynon. That may explain why it worked fine after a clean
reboot. Even though messing around with the power supply *shouldn't*
have caused a problem, all of us with any computer experience know that
interrupting power during boot up is asking for trouble.! :-)
This really is similar to the scenario I saw when I managed to hang the
EFIS while monkeying around with power feeds during boot up.
I second your decision to ditch the internal battery. In systems where
we already have emergency power capabilities, the battery is an
unnecessary complication.
Sam Buchanan
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
Listers, I have gotten so may requests for the instructions that I wrote in my
newsletter that I compiled them into one large article with pictures. The file
is over 600kb. I will post it to the list if it is OK with Matt to post such
a large article.
Jim Cone
3-peat offender
Message 14
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| Subject: | RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming |
--> RV-List message posted by: "bryan hooks" <hook3607@bellsouth.net>
Good questions. Another that I have had is...I want to do aerobatics,
and therefore want a hydraulic prop-governor. The last time I looked
into this, the FADEC only worked with and electric prop-gov. Wonder if
that has changed yet.
Bryan Hooks
RV-7A Fuselage
Knoxville, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of lucky macy
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Well, it unfortunately didn't really get specific on most of my
questions
and probably raised as many questions as it answers.
The http://www.fadec.com/overview.html page seems to be cut off at the
bottom and missing information - it ends in mid sentence.
Probably near the top of questions would be why would Mattituck sell
this
with an O-360 since it seems to be designed to work with Fuel Injection
and
I'm not sure it would be worth it on anything else.
Actually, I'm not sure it looks like it would be worth it at all. Did I
miss some type of cost analysis comparison betweein cost/op cost of
standard
vs generic electronic ignition vs FADEC system? I didn't see a specific
discussion on how engine overhauls showed any difference in part
wear/longevity, any of that type of specific info a homebuilder could
relate
to.
Any links to folks who retrofitted to FADEC on RVs? Testimonials would
probable be he deciding factor for me. Any 8's flying with this?
Installation pictures availabe?
Thanks again,
Lucky
>From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: RV8ter@aol.com, rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming
>Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 16:33:48 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
>
>
>See
>www.fadec.com
>Then let the quiestions begin!
>
>ERic--
>GodSpeed Aviation
>
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: RV8ter@aol.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming
>Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 09:40:11 EST
>
>Eric, what luck to know you were a part of that FADEC design.
>
>I heard someone say recently that with a FADEC system installed on a
O-360,
>you bring that Lycosaur design up to modern times in that you can burn
>mogas
>as
>well as 100LL, appreciable fuel burn rate reduction, measurably
smoother,
>etc, etc.
>
>But someone else coutered with something like "maybe, but you have to
more
>careful with prop selection (power pulses very different?) and that's
if
>you
>can
>get it to work right, etc". Apparently fielded units are supposedly
>received
>with mixed results?
>
>Anyway, it's all new and news to me.
>
>Does it only work with an IO setup?
>
>Can you clear the fog up on that FADEC system and give us your inside
>opinion
>on the practical pros and cons of buying that option and it's proper
use
>and
>care and whether it's what you would do?
>
>If that's all spelled out somewhere then sorry for the bother and could
you
>send me a link? :-)
>
>thanks,
>lucky
>
>In a message dated 2/13/2004 9:26:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>ericparlow@hotmail.com writes:
>also did the work on the TCM FADEC for the Lycoming IOF-360 that
Mattituck
>sells.
>This is my only experience with how the Lycomig performs.
>
>The major issue is designing a turbine wastegate to regulate the boost.
>I assume you want to turbo normalize. i.e. maintain 160 bhp to
17,500ft.
>
>Give me call and let's talk.
>
>ERic--
>GodSpeed Aviation
>(828) 777-7976
>
>Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My
MSN.
>http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
>
>
Optimize your Internet experience to the max with the new MSN Premium
Internet Software.
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200359ave/direct/01/
==
==
==
==
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
>> If this continues to be a problem why not splice a switch into the
>>internal
>> battery lead and bring the wire out through the cover?
>>
>> Bob Trumpfheller
>I have not looked at the wiring of the internal battery so I don't know if
>this is easy to do. I don't think I would want to dig into the guts of the
>unit and mess with this especially since I have a main bus/essential bus
>with SD-8 backup. The internal battery was a fourth line of defense that
>now seems to be a liability.
>
>Ross
Agreed, but in a situation where the internal battery is the only backup, it
has a valid purpose.
I have replaced the battery in my Dynon and actually don't remember if there
is room for a switch modification. It IS rather tight in there. It could
probably be done with a solder/heatshrink splice or a connector mod. I will look
into this next week, as I would like to do this. If anyone shows an interest
I will post my conclusion.
Bob Trumpfheller
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Bill,
not sure the standard M/S carb is OK to pressurize, or at least the gaskets,
particularly the one under the brass bump that covers the bowl vent screen.
That's not to say they haven't done it, for example the Bell 47 G-3 with a
VO-435 has one in the military version, but most turbos use F/I or a
pressure carb.
W
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Jim,
Why don't you post it to photo share?
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
>
> Listers, I have gotten so may requests for the instructions that I wrote
in my newsletter that I compiled them into one large article with pictures.
The file is over 600kb. I will post it to the list if it is OK with Matt to
post such a large article.
>
> Jim Cone
> 3-peat offender
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Top mounted antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
Fellow Listers:
One of our local RV-7A pilots who is not on the list would like me to post a
question. His airplane is equipped with a Garmin 530. He originally had a
bent whip antenna mounted on the bottom of the airplane and he experienced
significant reception problems with this antenna and its location (mounted
essentially on the belly in line with the flaps). He would lose reception
when pointed at stations straight ahead of him. All cables and grounds were
checked and found satisfactory. He then changed to a straight antenna and
the problem went away.
But he still has a problem with his #2 radio which is connected to an
internal antenna in one wing tip. It is basically useless with a 5 miles
transmission and reception range. He needs to install another antenna for
this #2 radio. His question is whether anyone has had any experience with a
top mounted antenna mounted roughly halfway between the canopy and the
vertical fin. Specifically any RF interference with such an installation.
Many thanks
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
N722DW, RV-4, 100+ hours, cracked canopy awaiting parts
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I can't remember - did you think to pull the internal battery and reboot
before you sent it back, or has that remedy come to light after this thread
developed?
Would that, in fact, prevent having to send the unit back to be reset? Or,
is the internal battery too hard for the owner to access?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> > Do you have the remote magnetometer?
>
> Yes
>
> >Is it on a different power bus from the Dynon?
>
> No. When I got the internal battery, I took the Dynon off my essential
bus.
> I will now be putting it back on the essential.
>
> >Could it be that the mag remained powered up during the fuel stop which
> caused a crash when the EFIS came back on line?
>
> No. When I shut down, I turned off the power that is common to both
units.
> Thge only odd thing that happened before startup was that I accidentally
> turned the main power switch on while I was rummaging around in the
plane,
> I MAY have turned the power off while the boot screen was on. When I
turned
> the main power on, it switched to internal power and the blue screen
> remained. I did not think of this before I sent the unit in for repairs.
> In any case, I will be doing without the internal battery.
>
> > If not, you probably just have a sick unit and I am sure a healthy one
is
> on the way to you.
>
> I hope so. The weather is supposed to break on Thursday.
>
> Ross
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Static pressure line drain |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
This is the kind of thing you find out "by experience", on your specific
airplane and operating conditions: You set up a fairly frequent/short
interval to open the drain - and note if you found "nothing", "a drop or
two", etc. If you find nothing, then extend the inspection interval.
The military jets I flew all had drains and Tech Order procedures for
purging the lines. It is a more "real" problem for those who routinely
climb above the freezing level (sfc in winter to 15,000' in summer) and stay
there long enough for stuff to "cold soak".
- As someone else said (Sam?), best design is - "The tubing runs ONLY
UPHILL from the static source - and, by same logic, from the pitot tube.
- The pitot tube and its associated tubing back through wing to
instrument panel would seem to be a problem on RVs. I haven't got that far
yet - I've basically decided that I'll have a manual valve that I can
"close", located between by airspeed indicator and the drain point/blowout
point - Close the valve to protect the ASI, then blow dry air through the
pitot line from very near that valve back out to the pitot tube. Could have
a paper towel secured to end of pitot tube to catch expelled moisture, if
any, to be able to note in your maintenance long if you did or did not get
any moisture out.
- Probably, because it is not a "show stopper" to lose indicated
airspeed, I suspect most such "purging" is done "as required" by an actual
event of frozen line. That seems the most practical - so disregard the
comment above about "inspection intervals" - unless you really want to
know - or unless you suspect your lines have a kink or some such design that
you EXPECT to trap moisture.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static pressure line drain
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
> Hi Pete,
>
> How often have you found it necessary to use the drain so far?
> Do you have a separate fitting at a higher location for alternate static
> air.
> I am being told that condensation gets in the line and represents a
blocking
> hazard due to freezing and also a moisture threat to instruments. I don't
> doubt this happens but I do wonder how commonly it actually requires
> attention.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <PeterHunt1@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Static pressure line drain
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
> >
> > Dale asked about installing a drain in the static line.
> >
> > Even with a tail dragger I had a low spot in my static line just in
front
> of
> > my instrument panel. At that point I installed a "T" fitting in my
static
> > line with a three inch vertical tube (to catch the water) coming down
from
> the
> > "T." At the bottom of this line I installed a "radiator drain" type
valve
> like
> > on a car radiator. I found my drain valve at Home Depot in the plumbing
> > department where they sell all those small parts for copper tubing.
> >
> > Pete Hunt
> > Clearwater, FL
> > RV-6, Installing engine
> >
> >
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Static pressure line drain |
--> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
Jim, to answer your questions -- (1) I am not flying yet, so I don't know
how frequently a static line must be drained. However, I suspect it will be an
extremely, extremely rare occasion. (2) No, a second valve for alternative
static air is not necessary. If my static system freezes, for example, and I
need a source for cockpit static air, I just open my "radiator type valve"
located under the instrument panel.
Pete Hunt
Clearwater, FL
Unpacked my new 0-360-A1A today
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Top mounted antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Doug Weiler wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
<snip>
His question is whether anyone has had any experience with a
> top mounted antenna mounted roughly halfway between the canopy and the
> vertical fin. Specifically any RF interference with such an installation.
The com antenna mounted on the turtle deck of my RV-6 has always worked
very nicely for me.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 545 hrs)
http://thervjournal.com
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Top mounted antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
If you have the tilt up canopy, mount it as far forward as possible.
It's just about the best location on the airframe.
With a sliding canopy, the COM antenna usually gets mounted too close to the
vertical stabilizer.
Jim Ayers
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