Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:58 AM - Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery (Larry Bowen)
2. 05:33 AM - Re: Top mounted antenna (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
3. 06:39 AM - Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? (Roger Evenson)
4. 07:18 AM - Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery (Doug Rozendaal)
5. 07:23 AM - Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery (Ross Mickey)
6. 07:27 AM - Com Antenna Placement (tacaruth@ralcorp.com)
7. 08:13 AM - Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? (Dj Merrill)
8. 09:00 AM - SPRAYLAT (Bruce Bell)
9. 09:01 AM - Re: Com Antenna Placement (N67BT@aol.com)
10. 09:24 AM - Re: SPRAYLAT (Bruce Gray)
11. 09:43 AM - Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask (Tim Bryan)
12. 10:11 AM - Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask (Bruce Gray)
13. 10:22 AM - Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? (Larry Bowen)
14. 10:39 AM - Re: SPRAYLAT (Stein Bruch)
15. 10:40 AM - Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? (Glenn Brasch)
16. 10:59 AM - Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask (Dan Checkoway)
17. 11:33 AM - Jim Cone and Eric Newton's Canopy Instructions (Greg Grigson)
18. 11:42 AM - SPRAYLAT (Bruce Bell)
19. 11:49 AM - Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
20. 12:00 PM - Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask (linn walters)
21. 12:06 PM - Sam James wheel pants (Paul Brown)
22. 12:12 PM - Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery (Mickey Coggins)
23. 12:51 PM - Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery (Sam Buchanan)
24. 01:27 PM - Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? (Dj Merrill)
25. 01:27 PM - Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask (Tim Bryan)
26. 01:49 PM - Jim Cone and Eric Newton's Canopy Instructions (pauls@kc.rr.com)
27. 02:29 PM - Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask (linn walters)
28. 06:36 PM - Engine drawings (Off topic) (Brian Kraut)
29. 06:42 PM - Re: Engine drawings (Off topic) (Bruce Gray)
30. 07:01 PM - Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
31. 07:22 PM - Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery (Ross Mickey)
32. 07:30 PM - Re: CrossFlow Subie engine (Tracy Crook)
33. 07:50 PM - Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? (Roger Evenson)
34. 08:03 PM - Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask (steve dinieri)
35. 08:07 PM - Re: CrossFlow Subie engine (Charles Becker)
36. 08:10 PM - Re: CrossFlow Subie engine (Brian Denk)
37. 08:12 PM - Re: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming (Dave Ford)
38. 08:51 PM - Re: Engine drawings (Off topic) (Dan Checkoway)
39. 09:00 PM - Re: CrossFlow Subie engine (Tedd McHenry)
40. 09:13 PM - Re: CrossFlow Subie engine (Brian Denk)
41. 10:03 PM - Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? (Henry Hochberg)
42. 11:32 PM - Re: Canopy (Jim and Bev Cone)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
It's accessible. I swapped out my battery out for a new one months ago
when they had the battery problem. It's not hard.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Carter [mailto:dcarter@datarecall.net]
> Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2004 10:11 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> I can't remember - did you think to pull the internal battery
> and reboot before you sent it back, or has that remedy come
> to light after this thread developed?
>
> Would that, in fact, prevent having to send the unit back to
> be reset? Or, is the internal battery too hard for the owner
> to access?
>
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> >
> > > Do you have the remote magnetometer?
> >
> > Yes
> >
> > >Is it on a different power bus from the Dynon?
> >
> > No. When I got the internal battery, I took the Dynon off my
> > essential
> bus.
> > I will now be putting it back on the essential.
> >
> > >Could it be that the mag remained powered up during the fuel stop
> > >which
> > caused a crash when the EFIS came back on line?
> >
> > No. When I shut down, I turned off the power that is common to both
> units.
> > Thge only odd thing that happened before startup was that I
> > accidentally turned the main power switch on while I was rummaging
> > around in the
> plane,
> > I MAY have turned the power off while the boot screen was
> on. When I
> turned
> > the main power on, it switched to internal power and the
> blue screen
> > remained. I did not think of this before I sent the unit in for
> > repairs. In any case, I will be doing without the internal battery.
> >
> > > If not, you probably just have a sick unit and I am sure
> a healthy
> > > one
> is
> > on the way to you.
> >
> > I hope so. The weather is supposed to break on Thursday.
> >
> > Ross
> >
> >
>
>
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Top mounted antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
While on this subject has anyone else ever tested the performance of an ELT
antenna mounted under the fiberglass fairing between the rudder and horizontal.
I made some measurements with my MFJ-259B antenna analyzer and found that,
when mounted there, there was an extremely high SWR and no resonance indicated.
(I am a ham operator.) Therefore, the antenna will radiate very poorly.
For that reason I am seriously considering putting the ELT antenna on the turtle
deck. When it is in the clear, the SWR measures about 1.5:1 which is
acceptable.
Does anyone know about how serious the additional drag would be?
In a message dated 2/15/04 11:25:50 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
sbuc@hiwaay.net writes:
> Doug Weiler wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
> <snip>
> His question is whether anyone has had any experience with a
> >top mounted antenna mounted roughly halfway between the canopy and the
> >vertical fin. Specifically any RF interference with such an installation.
>
>
> The com antenna mounted on the turtle deck of my RV-6 has always worked
> very nicely for me.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 545 hrs)
> http://thervjournal.com
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
Have recently become aware of the Monroy ATD-200 traffic detection unit. If anyone
out there has experience with this or similar units, I'd sure like to hear
some opinions. Thanks. Roger.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
All,
It is not hard to swap out the battery, and it would not be difficult to put
a switch in the battery line that made the battery power controllable. 1
switch, 2 feet of wire and some heat shrink. Cut a small notch in the
battery cover and away you go!
VFR folks can do what ever they want, instruments are a luxury not a
necessity for VFR, but I have been in an airplane IFR at night with no
power but a flashlight, and it is a lonesome feeling. I have to take issue
with those who are quick to remove the battery in an IFR airplane. If your
electric T&B is the back up to your Dynon no matter how many busses you
have, they still come back to the same battery. The internal battery in the
Dynon is one of it's most important features to me.
I have had not trouble with lockups, but I like the idea of having a switch
on it. You could leave the switch on or off, it would not matter, but you
could do a reboot then if it locked up. The old addage is true, "If you
want to sell it to a pilot, put a switch on it, if it has a light and a
bell, they can't resist!"
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> I can't remember - did you think to pull the internal battery and reboot
> before you sent it back, or has that remedy come to light after this
thread
> developed?
>
> Would that, in fact, prevent having to send the unit back to be reset?
Or,
> is the internal battery too hard for the owner to access?
>
> David
Pulling the internal battery on my installed unit is impossible without
removing the unit from the panel.
The problem was solved prior to sending the unit back by letting the
internal battery drain. When the battery was dead, the unit shut off. When
I turned the unit on via the master switch, it worked fine. I sent it back
because they wanted to look at it and it had another problem. Occasionally,
it would boot up with missing characters in many of the fields. This would
be remedied by turning the unit off. I also wanted to return the internal
battery.
Ross
Message 6
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| Subject: | Com Antenna Placement |
02/16/2004 09:27:21 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: tacaruth@ralcorp.com
Hi All,
I am building an RV-7A and would like to place a bent whip com antenna on
the belly. Where would be the best place for this? Would behind the
baggage compartment be too far aft?
Thanks in advance
Tom
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Roger Evenson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
>
> Have recently become aware of the Monroy ATD-200 traffic detection unit. If
anyone out there has experience with this or similar units, I'd sure like to hear
some opinions. Thanks. Roger.
I've used the Surecheck TPAS unit (rx-110 I think is the model).
It will tell you if there is traffic nearby, but don't expect the
digital distance readout to be terribly accurate. IMHO, that doesn't
matter that much, as I just want to know when somehting is within
5 miles of me to get more of my attention outside.
I picked it up refurbished from Ebay for about $200, so the price is right.
Surecheck has newer models out now (VPX) that will tell you
difference in altitude from your present position. Of course,
it cost more money, too (about $1100 I think).
-Dj
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell@door.net>
Has anyone applied SPRAYLAT to their canopy with a brush? What were the
results?
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
DO NOT ARCHIVE!
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Com Antenna Placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
>I am building an RV-7A and would like to place a bent whip com antenna on
>the belly. Where would be the best place for this? Would behind the
>baggage compartment be too far aft?
>
>Thanks in advance
>Tom
Consider putting the com antenna in the elevator push/pull tube tunnel that
passes through the baggage compartment. I did that to avoid possible
interference with the other stuff (strobe power supply, ELT, etc.) which I mounted
behind the baggage compartment area. This also seems like a good
asthetics/performance compromise. We shall see.
Bob Trumpfheller
RV7A
Wiring in progress
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
It works just fine. Make sure you use at least 2 coats. The thicker is
is, the easier it is to remove. I've removed Spraylat (brushed on) after
10 years with no problem.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
Subject: RV-List: SPRAYLAT
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell@door.net>
Has anyone applied SPRAYLAT to their canopy with a brush? What were the
results?
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
DO NOT ARCHIVE!
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <Tim@bryantechnology.com>
How interesting. I was just looking at this product this morning while
trying to find something to take the masking tape off my canopy. Now I have
two questions:
Can Spray Lat be used to mask off the area while fiberglassing?
Will the unmask product remove the masking tape that has been on there for
way too long? I have some masking tape on the front edge where the canopy
meets the fuse. I am going to fiberglass over that area so won't see the
results but don't want to cause a reaction.
Any body with experience in this product as well? Please share.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: SPRAYLAT
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell@door.net>
Has anyone applied SPRAYLAT to their canopy with a brush? What were the
results?
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
DO NOT ARCHIVE!
.
Message 12
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| Subject: | SPRAYLAT & unmask |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
I would NOT fiberglass over masking tape. Do whatever is necessary to
remove it, including sandpaper. You want to take some fine sandpaper
(320 Grit or so) and scuff the plexiglass where you're going to
fiberglass for a good bond. I have no experience with unmask.
For areas that I want to protect during fiberglassing, I use 3M metal
tape. Make sure you remove the tape before the Fiberglass cures.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT & unmask
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <Tim@bryantechnology.com>
How interesting. I was just looking at this product this morning while
trying to find something to take the masking tape off my canopy. Now I
have
two questions:
Can Spray Lat be used to mask off the area while fiberglassing?
Will the unmask product remove the masking tape that has been on there
for
way too long? I have some masking tape on the front edge where the
canopy
meets the fuse. I am going to fiberglass over that area so won't see
the
results but don't want to cause a reaction.
Any body with experience in this product as well? Please share.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
.
==
==
==
==
Message 13
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| Subject: | Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I've flown with one and have one in my yet-to-fly RV-8. I like it so
far and it seems to be worth the investment. They have a newer model
out, the ATD-300. http://www.monroyaero.com/trafficwatch.html
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Evenson [mailto:revenson@comcast.net]
> Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 9:38 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200?
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
>
> Have recently become aware of the Monroy ATD-200 traffic
> detection unit. If anyone out there has experience with this
> or similar units, I'd sure like to hear some opinions.
> Thanks. Roger.
>
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Bruce,
I have a friend who did that to his RV6 canopy. It's great stuff, and protects
the canopy well, but now 2 years after he applied it, he's having issues getting
it all to come off easily. Seems the trick is to get it on VERY thick, otherwise
it is terribly hard to get off.
Just my 2 cents!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell@door.net>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell@door.net>
>
>Has anyone applied SPRAYLAT to their canopy with a brush? What were the
>results?
>Best regards,
>Bruce Bell
>Lubbock, Texas
>RV4 # 2888
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE!
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
What does the unit do with multiple targets? Thanks
Glenn in Tucson, -9A wings, fuselage ordered.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> I've flown with one and have one in my yet-to-fly RV-8. I like it so
> far and it seems to be worth the investment. They have a newer model
> out, the ATD-300. http://www.monroyaero.com/trafficwatch.html
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Roger Evenson [mailto:revenson@comcast.net]
> > Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 9:38 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200?
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
> >
> > Have recently become aware of the Monroy ATD-200 traffic
> > detection unit. If anyone out there has experience with this
> > or similar units, I'd sure like to hear some opinions.
> > Thanks. Roger.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Will the unmask product remove the masking tape that has been on there for
> way too long? I have some masking tape on the front edge where the canopy
Tim,
I had this problem (left masking tape on there for about a year, nasty mess
taking it off). Kerosene ended up being the winner-winner chicken dinner
for getting all the masking tape residue off pretty easily.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Jim Cone and Eric Newton's Canopy Instructions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Listers:
Please help me find a current source of these highly reccomended RV6 slider canopy
instructions.
After one hour plus or false trails I have been unable to unearth an active web
source.
Mahalo,
Greg Grigson
Honolulu
---------------------------------
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell@door.net>
Hi all,
Thanks to everyone who replied to my question on applying Spraylat with a
brush. I just got back from lunch with some other RV builders and fliers.
1-RV4 (me), 2-RV6, 1-RV7 and 1-RV6 FLYING! Conversation mostly on hangar
doors and Sunday flying. Those of us not finished logged one hour anyway!
Off to brush on Spraylat!
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
DO NOT ARCHIVE!
Message 19
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| Subject: | SPRAYLAT & unmask |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
You will find in the archives goo-gone is also a popular favorite. I
used it all over mine and it worked great. Remember to get all that
goo-gone oily stuff off the canopy after the tape removal. Give it a
good cleaning.
Mike Stewart
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT & unmask
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Will the unmask product remove the masking tape that has been on there
for
> way too long? I have some masking tape on the front edge where the
canopy
Tim,
I had this problem (left masking tape on there for about a year, nasty
mess
taking it off). Kerosene ended up being the winner-winner chicken
dinner
for getting all the masking tape residue off pretty easily.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
==
==
==
==
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Bruce Gray wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
>I would NOT fiberglass over masking tape.
>
Amen! The tape will cause separations in the fiberglas later on.
> Do whatever is necessary to
>remove it, including sandpaper. You want to take some fine sandpaper
>(320 Grit or so) and scuff the plexiglass where you're going to
>fiberglass for a good bond. I have no experience with unmask.
>
Kerosene will soften the worst dried out masking tape. Lay a piecr of
terry cloth over the masking tape and soak with the kerosene. Keep it wet.
Linn
>For areas that I want to protect during fiberglassing, I use 3M metal
>tape. Make sure you remove the tape before the Fiberglass cures.
>
>Bruce
>www.glasair.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT & unmask
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <Tim@bryantechnology.com>
>
>How interesting. I was just looking at this product this morning while
>trying to find something to take the masking tape off my canopy. Now I
>have
>two questions:
>
>Can Spray Lat be used to mask off the area while fiberglassing?
>
>Will the unmask product remove the masking tape that has been on there
>for
>way too long? I have some masking tape on the front edge where the
>canopy
>meets the fuse. I am going to fiberglass over that area so won't see
>the
>results but don't want to cause a reaction.
>
>Any body with experience in this product as well? Please share.
>Tim Bryan
>RV-6 N616TB
>
>
>.
>
>
>==
>==
>==
>==
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Sam James wheel pants |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
Listers
I have a pair of Sam James "high speed wheel pants" that I will either sell or
trade for Van's newer round one. I'll trade for a set that is new or have already
been installed, or sell for 100 bucks. These are new and never installed or
worked on.
Thanks!
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
I don't have my unit yet, but are you sure
they don't have some secret combination of
pressing buttons that does a reboot? Something
like pressing all four buttons for five
seconds, or first two for five seconds, then
second two for five seconds? Or ...
Mickey
> I have had not trouble with lockups, but I like the idea of having a switch
>on it.
--
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> I don't have my unit yet, but are you sure
> they don't have some secret combination of
> pressing buttons that does a reboot? Something
> like pressing all four buttons for five
> seconds, or first two for five seconds, then
> second two for five seconds? Or ...
>
The Dynon engineer with whom I was working never mentioned such a
sequence. Interrupting power is the only method of rebooting of which I
am aware.
Matter of fact, when the voltage drops way down during starting the
engine, the EFIS can reboot.
Sam Buchanan
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Glenn Brasch wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
> What does the unit do with multiple targets? Thanks
> Glenn in Tucson, -9A wings, fuselage ordered.
Both the Surecheck RX-110 and the Monroy ATD-200
pick the closest target, I believe. I think the newer
models may be able to track more than one, but I am not sure.
-Dj
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <Tim@bryantechnology.com>
Thanks for all the responses. I have no plans to cover the tape with
fiberglass, but definately don't want to screw up the plexi trying to get it
off. If others have had success with kerosene or goo off, I will give them
a try.
I have not heard of 3M metal tape so will look into that also. I was
planning to just mask it off right before glassing and then remove before
completely cured. Not about to leave tape on again. Maybe 3M metal is the
answer.
Thanks again
Tim Bryan
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT & unmask
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Bruce Gray wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
>I would NOT fiberglass over masking tape.
>
Amen! The tape will cause separations in the fiberglas later on.
> Do whatever is necessary to
>remove it, including sandpaper. You want to take some fine sandpaper
>(320 Grit or so) and scuff the plexiglass where you're going to
>fiberglass for a good bond. I have no experience with unmask.
>
Kerosene will soften the worst dried out masking tape. Lay a piecr of
terry cloth over the masking tape and soak with the kerosene. Keep it wet.
Linn
>For areas that I want to protect during fiberglassing, I use 3M metal
>tape. Make sure you remove the tape before the Fiberglass cures.
>
>Bruce
>www.glasair.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT & unmask
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <Tim@bryantechnology.com>
>
>How interesting. I was just looking at this product this morning while
>trying to find something to take the masking tape off my canopy. Now I
>have
>two questions:
>
>Can Spray Lat be used to mask off the area while fiberglassing?
>
>Will the unmask product remove the masking tape that has been on there
>for
>way too long? I have some masking tape on the front edge where the
>canopy
>meets the fuse. I am going to fiberglass over that area so won't see
>the
>results but don't want to cause a reaction.
>
>Any body with experience in this product as well? Please share.
>Tim Bryan
>RV-6 N616TB
>
>
>.
>
>
>==
>==
>==
>==
>
>
>
>
.
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Jim Cone and Eric Newton's Canopy Instructions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "pauls@kc.rr.com" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
Hey Greg,
Take a glance at my site:
http://home.kc.rr.com/pauljana/finish/finish1.htm
Paul Stratman
RV-6A 'Taylor Maid'
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Tim Bryan wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <Tim@bryantechnology.com>
>
>Thanks for all the responses. I have no plans to cover the tape with
>fiberglass, but definately don't want to screw up the plexi trying to get it
>off. If others have had success with kerosene or goo off, I will give them
>a try.
>
>I have not heard of 3M metal tape so will look into that also. I was
>planning to just mask it off right before glassing and then remove before
>completely cured. Not about to leave tape on again. Maybe 3M metal is the
>answer.
>
>Thanks again
>Tim Bryan
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: rv-list@matronics.com
>Date: Monday, February 16, 2004 12:29:05 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT & unmask
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
>Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>>
>>I would NOT fiberglass over masking tape.
>>
>>
>>
>Amen! The tape will cause separations in the fiberglas later on.
>
>
>
>>Do whatever is necessary to
>>remove it, including sandpaper. You want to take some fine sandpaper
>>(320 Grit or so) and scuff the plexiglass where you're going to
>>fiberglass for a good bond. I have no experience with unmask.
>>
>>
>>
>Kerosene will soften the worst dried out masking tape. Lay a piecr of
>terry cloth over the masking tape and soak with the kerosene. Keep it wet.
>Linn
>
>
>
>>For areas that I want to protect during fiberglassing, I use 3M metal
>>tape. Make sure you remove the tape before the Fiberglass cures.
>>
>>Bruce
>>www.glasair.org
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT & unmask
>>
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <Tim@bryantechnology.com>
>>
>>How interesting. I was just looking at this product this morning while
>>trying to find something to take the masking tape off my canopy. Now I
>>have
>>two questions:
>>
>>Can Spray Lat be used to mask off the area while fiberglassing?
>>
>>Will the unmask product remove the masking tape that has been on there
>>for
>>way too long? I have some masking tape on the front edge where the
>>canopy
>>meets the fuse. I am going to fiberglass over that area so won't see
>>the
>>results but don't want to cause a reaction.
>>
>>Any body with experience in this product as well? Please share.
>>Tim Bryan
>>RV-6 N616TB
>>
You can ge metal tape at Home depot or Lowes. Look in the paint section.
Linn
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Engine drawings (Off topic) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Kraut <engalt@earthlink.net>
Can anyone tell me where I can get some CAD drawings of popular aircraft engines?
I am working on a design for a 4 place aircraft and I need some engine drawings
for my initial shape and sizing drawings. I would prefer 3D cad drawings,
but I have not been able to find and dimensioned drawings at all yet so I will
take whatever I can get for right now. I am in particular looking for a TSIO-550
as a maximum size engine, but would like an O-360 and O-320 also.
Brian Kraut
engalt@earthlink.net
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Engine drawings (Off topic) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Lycoming has large dimensioned installation drawings for any of their
engines you want. Cost is $40 per drawing, (4x12 foot drawing, multiple
views).
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Kraut
Subject: RV-List: Engine drawings (Off topic)
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Kraut <engalt@earthlink.net>
Can anyone tell me where I can get some CAD drawings of popular aircraft
engines? I am working on a design for a 4 place aircraft and I need
some engine drawings for my initial shape and sizing drawings. I would
prefer 3D cad drawings, but I have not been able to find and dimensioned
drawings at all yet so I will take whatever I can get for right now. I
am in particular looking for a TSIO-550 as a maximum size engine, but
would like an O-360 and O-320 also.
Brian Kraut
engalt@earthlink.net
==
==
==
==
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Instead of kerosene, use my wife's favorite solvent -- lamp oil. It has no
smell and other than that, I think it is just like kerosene.
I used lamp oil for compass fluid in rebuilding an old compass I got at a fly
mart -- much cheaper than A/C Spruce. There was a compass factory near here
where my Mom worked, and kerosene was what they used for compass fluid. Ah, I
got off the topic!
Dan RV-7A N766DH almost done
In a message dated 2/16/04 2:01:00 PM US Eastern Standard Time, dan@rvprojec
t.com writes:
> Subj: Re: RV-List: SPRAYLAT &unmask
> Date: 2/16/04 2:01:00 PM US Eastern Standard Time
> From: dan@rvproject.com
> Reply-to: rv-list@matronics.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent from the Internet
>
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> >Will the unmask product remove the masking tape that has been on there for
> >way too long? I have some masking tape on the front edge where the canopy
>
> Tim,
>
> I had this problem (left masking tape on there for about a year, nasty mess
> taking it off). Kerosene ended up being the winner-winner chicken dinner
> for getting all the masking tape residue off pretty easily.
>
> Best of luck,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> I don't have my unit yet, but are you sure
> they don't have some secret combination of
> pressing buttons that does a reboot? Something
> like pressing all four buttons for five
> seconds, or first two for five seconds, then
> second two for five seconds? Or ...
>
> Mickey
I am sure. I spoke with Nick at Dynon today and they will have a software
fix in a couple of days.
I tried to convince them to install two wires on the internal battery so I
could installa switch but they think this is a bandaid instead of a fix. I
think it is insurance.
Ross........Mickey
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: CrossFlow Subie engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
I have no first hand knowledge of the CF4-20 CrossFlow engine that someone posted
a link to earlier but I did check out their specs on-line. Below is an excerpt
from their document.
Let's assume the HP rating is correct even though 180 HP sounds optimistic from
a 125 cubic inch engine. They claim 7.5 GPH at 80% power. 80% of 180 is 144
HP. 7.5 GPH is 45 lb per hr. 45 lb / 144 HP equals a BSFC of .3125 lb/hp/hr.
This is better than most diesel engines and better than any gasoline engine
I ever heard of.
This might be a fine engine but is anybody buying these numbers? This kind of
stuff gives auto conversions a bad name.
Tracy Crook
Performance - 180 horse power at 5800 rpm
Reduction ratio - 2.34:1
Compression ratio - 10.1:1
Torque at propeller - 375 ft / lbs
Fuel consumption at 80% power - 7.5 gallons per hour
Displacement - 2000 cubic centimeters
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
Here's part of the manual for the ATD-300 model. Sounds like it rotates between
multiple targets.
6.1 High Traffic Activity In areas of high traffic activity the display will show
multiple traffics in an alternating fashion. This is most common for traffic
between 4 and 5nm. Display preference is given to the closest traffic by distance.
As traffic gets closer background traffic display is reduced or eliminated.
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: SPRAYLAT & unmask |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve dinieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
i had best results just smearing some regular dish soap on the thin spraylat
and letting soak. it's water based like elmers glue so any moisture will
soften it given enough time. usually overnight then just wash off..
steve dinieri
rv6a N221RV
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
>
> You will find in the archives goo-gone is also a popular favorite. I
> used it all over mine and it worked great. Remember to get all that
> goo-gone oily stuff off the canopy after the tape removal. Give it a
> good cleaning.
>
> Mike Stewart
> Do not archive
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | CrossFlow Subie engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Becker" <ctbecker@charter.net>
I'm not sure of the CrossFlow Numbers, but the numbers for the Eggenfellner
have stood the test of time. Especially with the new 2.5T variable valve
engine.
Charlie Becker
N464CB RV 8AS(ubie)
Empennage (Wings in the mail)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tracy Crook
Subject: Re: RV-List: CrossFlow Subie engine
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
I have no first hand knowledge of the CF4-20 CrossFlow engine that someone
posted a link to earlier but I did check out their specs on-line. Below is
an excerpt from their document.
Let's assume the HP rating is correct even though 180 HP sounds optimistic
from a 125 cubic inch engine. They claim 7.5 GPH at 80% power. 80% of 180
is 144 HP. 7.5 GPH is 45 lb per hr. 45 lb / 144 HP equals a BSFC of .3125
lb/hp/hr. This is better than most diesel engines and better than any
gasoline engine I ever heard of.
This might be a fine engine but is anybody buying these numbers? This kind
of stuff gives auto conversions a bad name.
Tracy Crook
Performance - 180 horse power at 5800 rpm
Reduction ratio - 2.34:1
Compression ratio - 10.1:1
Torque at propeller - 375 ft / lbs
Fuel consumption at 80% power - 7.5 gallons per hour
Displacement - 2000 cubic centimeters
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: CrossFlow Subie engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>I have no first hand knowledge of the CF4-20 CrossFlow engine that someone
>posted a link to earlier but I did check out their specs on-line. Below is
>an excerpt from their document.
>Let's assume the HP rating is correct even though 180 HP sounds optimistic
>from a 125 cubic inch engine. They claim 7.5 GPH at 80% power. 80% of
>180 is 144 HP. 7.5 GPH is 45 lb per hr. 45 lb / 144 HP equals a BSFC of
>.3125 lb/hp/hr. This is better than most diesel engines and better than
>any gasoline engine I ever heard of.
>This might be a fine engine but is anybody buying these numbers? This kind
>of stuff gives auto conversions a bad name.
>Tracy Crook
>
>Performance - 180 horse power at 5800 rpm
>Reduction ratio - 2.34:1
>Compression ratio - 10.1:1
>Torque at propeller - 375 ft / lbs
>Fuel consumption at 80% power - 7.5 gallons per hour
>Displacement - 2000 cubic centimeters
Tracy,
I have been contacted by them for input on what I'd like to see in an RV10
power package. Bottom line is....I want POWER! I'm also skeptical of the
horsepower specs you reference. They do have some very intelligent sounding
verbage on dyno use, how, why, what it shows and does not show. Strange
thing though, I saw no direct dyno performance specs for their engine. I am
very impressed with their overall package. It looks to be a finely crafted
setup. What is also nice is the supposed ability to drive a hydraulic prop,
which is atypical for a redrive unit.
I'm highly motivated to go non-Lycosaur for my RV10 and am seeking the most
bang for the buck, with the least amount of hassle-factor to install it. 260
hp minimum. Jury is still out on just where I'm going to get such an
engine.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD for sale.
RV10 '51
overload! http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | RE: TCM FADEC for the Lycoming |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
I just finished and am now flying my RV6 with FADEC. The reason I went with this
system originally was that I bought a core O360 that was in a fire, had no
mags or carbeurator, basically I had a crankcase and crankshaft (would not do
that again) I was originally going to rebuild this with standard mag, elec. ign.,
and carb. setup but someone suggested I look into the FADEC and decided that
at this point it may cost a little more but would tend to lean a little toward
auto technology for my airplane. I liked what I read in researching the
system and was pleased when Vans had confirmed a 15% fuel savings when testing
with their RV8. The propellor issue was a concern for me and although I was
originally gearing for a constant speed prop, in the midst of all the concerns
at the time decided I would start with the Sensenich which has no rpm restrictions
for the 180 hp engine w/FADEC. I now have about 15 hours on the engine
and can only tell you that it starts smooth, runs smooth, has plenty of power,
is fast, and shuts down with the turn of the key. I am not promoting or knocking
FADEC, for me it is too early to tell anything, I just made the comittment
to try it for my airplane. For more information, Ken Barto has been flying
his RV6A with FADEC for a few years now, and from my conversations with him he
is very satisfied with it, when I quizzed him as to if he would put it in his
RV10 he's building he affirmed that he would.
The plusses I see are--it adds fuel injection to a standard carbed O360; adds
computer controlled combustion-- eliminating the mixture control; each cylinder
is managed independently via independent fuel flow, cht, egt monitoring,
engine timing is electronically managed via a speed sensor in place of the right
magneto which monitors a modified mag gear counting cam and crankshaft pulses;
each cylinder is individually peaked for best power or economy depending on
settings; in theory the engine burns cleaner, should last longer? (remains
to be seen); it does start quite a bit smoother to other O360s I have seen,
must be due to the pulsed fuel distribution. Would be glad to try to answer any
questions you have, right now am having too much fun flying my first airplane
and am happy to be flying!
Dave Ford
RV6
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Engine drawings (Off topic) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Wow, that sounds kinda cool...might make good "hangar art." Does anybody
have a photo of one of these giant drawings?
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine drawings (Off topic)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
> Lycoming has large dimensioned installation drawings for any of their
> engines you want. Cost is $40 per drawing, (4x12 foot drawing, multiple
> views).
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Kraut
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Engine drawings (Off topic)
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Brian Kraut <engalt@earthlink.net>
>
> Can anyone tell me where I can get some CAD drawings of popular aircraft
> engines? I am working on a design for a 4 place aircraft and I need
> some engine drawings for my initial shape and sizing drawings. I would
> prefer 3D cad drawings, but I have not been able to find and dimensioned
> drawings at all yet so I will take whatever I can get for right now. I
> am in particular looking for a TSIO-550 as a maximum size engine, but
> would like an O-360 and O-320 also.
>
> Brian Kraut
> engalt@earthlink.net
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: CrossFlow Subie engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
On Tue, 17 Feb 2004, Brian Denk wrote:
> I'm highly motivated to go non-Lycosaur for my RV10 and am seeking the most
> bang for the buck, with the least amount of hassle-factor to install it. 260
> hp minimum. Jury is still out on just where I'm going to get such an
> engine.
The new Bombardier 220 HP or 300 HP engine might be the ticket for a -10, if
it's ready in time for you.
http://www.vaircraftengines.com/
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: CrossFlow Subie engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
> > I'm highly motivated to go non-Lycosaur for my RV10 and am seeking the
>most
> > bang for the buck, with the least amount of hassle-factor to install it.
>260
> > hp minimum. Jury is still out on just where I'm going to get such an
> > engine.
>
>The new Bombardier 220 HP or 300 HP engine might be the ticket for a -10,
>if
>it's ready in time for you.
>
>http://www.vaircraftengines.com/
>
>Tedd McHenry
>Surrey, BC
Great looking powerplant for sure. I seriously doubt it will be priced so
that I can afford it, and I'm not sure if they're going to play with us
experimental guys at all. At least not initially. I think they should just
give me one and let me fly it for a while. But I gotta finish the airframe
first!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
do not archive
Stay informed on Election 2004 and the race to Super Tuesday.
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Experience w/Monroy ATD-200? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Henry Hochberg <aeroncadoc@comcast.net>
I've gotten multiple warnings in congested airspace and you can't tell
if it's for the same or a different aircraft. It just keeps you more
vigilant.
Having said that, my Monroy ATD-200 is for sale. I'm hoping for $300
(paid $600 and used it three times). Email privately if you want more info.
Henry H.
RV-6 N72224 KAWO
Dj Merrill wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
>
>Glenn Brasch wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>>
>>What does the unit do with multiple targets? Thanks
>>Glenn in Tucson, -9A wings, fuselage ordered.
>>
>>
>
> Both the Surecheck RX-110 and the Monroy ATD-200
>pick the closest target, I believe. I think the newer
>models may be able to track more than one, but I am not sure.
>
>-Dj
>
>
>
>
Message 42
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
OK, the canopy instructions are in photo share.
Jim Cone
3 peat offender
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