Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:31 AM - Re: Attaching gear legs (Jim Jewell)
2. 04:27 AM - Re: engines, engines, engines - wonderful to have choicesfor once? (Dana Overall)
3. 05:20 AM - Re: Attaching gear legs (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
4. 05:35 AM - Re: engines, engines, engines - wonderful to have choicesfor once? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
5. 06:41 AM - Carbon Fiber Prince "P" Tip? (Dan DeNeal)
6. 07:04 AM - Re: Attaching gear legs (Neil McLeod)
7. 07:22 AM - Re: Another transponder check question... (SportAV8R@aol.com)
8. 07:48 AM - Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) (Bill Dube)
9. 08:24 AM - Re: leather upholstery (Jeff Dowling)
10. 08:26 AM - Re: Canopy (DAVAWALKER@aol.com)
11. 08:45 AM - RV-List Picture of Turbo Subaru 2.2 in a RV-4 (P M Condon)
12. 08:49 AM - ELT Required?? (PGLong@aol.com)
13. 08:59 AM - White Rust?? (PGLong@aol.com)
14. 09:00 AM - Re: Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) (Tedd McHenry)
15. 09:07 AM - Re: ELT Required?? (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
16. 09:09 AM - Re: ELT Required?? (Bruce Gray)
17. 09:09 AM - Re: engines, engines, engines - wonderful to have choicesfor (Tedd McHenry)
18. 09:32 AM - Re: Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) (Scott Bilinski)
19. 09:44 AM - Re: ELT Required?? (Alex Peterson)
20. 10:18 AM - Re: White Rust?? (Stein Bruch)
21. 10:18 AM - Re: Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) (Tracy Crook)
22. 10:21 AM - Re: ELT Required?? (Alex Peterson)
23. 10:23 AM - Re: ELT Required?? not always (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
24. 10:32 AM - Re: engines, Rotary, engines (Tracy Crook)
25. 10:40 AM - Re: Attaching gear legs (Jim Oke)
26. 10:46 AM - Re: ELT Required?? not always (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
27. 10:52 AM - Re: ELT Required?? not always (C. Rabaut)
28. 10:59 AM - Re: Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) (Kysh)
29. 12:37 PM - Fireshield (Richard Dudley)
30. 01:47 PM - New Strobe solution... (Bill VonDane)
31. 02:11 PM - spraylat (Wheeler North)
32. 02:17 PM - Antenna drag (Wheeler North)
33. 03:17 PM - Re: Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) (Tracy Crook)
34. 03:18 PM - Re:White Rust?? (Bob n' Lu Olds)
35. 03:25 PM - Re: New Strobe solution... ()
36. 03:57 PM - Re: New Strobe solution... (Bill VonDane)
37. 04:15 PM - Making the right kit choice (Dj Merrill)
38. 04:26 PM - Re: Antenna drag (Kevin Horton)
39. 04:39 PM - Re: Antenna drag (Glenn Brasch)
40. 04:43 PM - Re: Making the right kit choice (Richard Tasker)
41. 04:56 PM - Re: Attaching gear legs (Mike Holland)
42. 05:11 PM - Re: Antenna drag (Larry Pardue)
43. 05:20 PM - Re: Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) (Dana Overall)
44. 05:24 PM - Re: Antenna drag (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
45. 05:26 PM - Re: Making the right kit choice (RVEIGHTA@aol.com)
46. 06:01 PM - Re: Making the right kit choice (Jim Jewell)
47. 06:05 PM - Re: Making the right kit choice (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
48. 06:18 PM - Re: Making the right kit choice (Dana Overall)
49. 06:22 PM - Re: Making the right kit choice (Dj Merrill)
50. 06:33 PM - Re: Making the right kit choice (Dj Merrill)
51. 07:12 PM - Re: Making the right kit choice (Dj Merrill)
52. 07:21 PM - Re: Making the right kit choice (Glenn Brasch)
53. 07:32 PM - Re: Making the right kit choice (Richard E. Tasker)
54. 07:36 PM - Re: Making the right kit choice (James E. Clark)
55. 08:07 PM - Re:Transponder Checks (Bob n' Lu Olds)
56. 08:10 PM - AIRCRAFT BATTERY (bruno)
57. 08:23 PM - Re: Fireshield (Cy Galley)
58. 08:29 PM - Re: Wing tip antennas (Leesafur@aol.com)
59. 08:39 PM - Re: Wing tip antennas (Leesafur@aol.com)
60. 08:52 PM - photos of front baffle seals (Dan Checkoway)
61. 09:03 PM - Re: Fireshield (Stein Bruch)
62. 09:06 PM - Re(2): Wing tip antennas (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
63. 09:16 PM - Re: Making the right kit choice (Tedd McHenry)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Attaching gear legs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Mike,
Are the engine, and wings etc attached?
If not the unit will be light enough to be lifted onto some saw horses or
whatever for support. It should be light enough for three people to handle
while one positions the supports. Once the legs are on it can be jacked up
and down as needed.
I used linked pairs of one inch wide cargo straps (the ones with the little
winches) looped through some strong hooks in the ceiling to lift my fuse up
off the jig.
Later on I have used them to lift the engineless but finished fuse with the
gear attached.
A set of the heavier cargo straps would lift the fuse engine and all. Costco
and others sell sets of them for a low dollar cost solution.
I have a chain come along that lifts the fuse with the engine etc.
installed. the ceiling in my garage is no more than nine feet high.
Just be sure that the ceiling attachment points are up to the job strength
wise.
In the past I have lifted heavy car engines etc. in low ceiling areas by
running the lift cable of a come along through a pulley mounted on the
ceiling with the winch section attached to the wall. Give close attention to
strong mounting points for safety reasons.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Attaching gear legs
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
> Any good ideas on how to lift the fuselage to attach my 9A gear? I have
an engine hoist but I don't think it will lift high enough. And I don't
really have a good situation for an overhead hoist either (9 foot garage
ceiling).
>
> Thanks
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: engines, engines, engines - wonderful to have choicesfor |
once?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: RV8ter@aol.com
>
>180 HP? How do you know since it's going to be your own make? Can they
>burn
>100LL and mogas?
That's just what you get out of the engine. Yes, it will burn 100LL or
mogas
>
>And what's the average person really going to have in one when they are
>done?
>
You can buy a 0 time for $3800 from http://rotaryresources.com or build your
own up. They are so rediculously simple, buying was not a consideration for
me at all. Check tolerances, if they are not acceptable to the range or to
you personnally, exchange with the above company with a core charge. You
can save about 1500 to 2000 to do it yourself if you get a good core so
$9500 (remember this is prop, engine mount...the works) to $11,500.
>Can the PRSUs be adapted for CS props, etc?
>
I am using Tracy's unit at http://www.rotaryaviation.com . The plus for me
is you can use wood or metal. The additional torque produced to the prop
allows one to use a fixed pitch cruise prop and still generate impressive
climb performance due the engine not loading up with the additional torque.
Can you say "Homesick Angel":-)
>How do they rate compared to the Subaru 2.5 XT head to head? That would be
>interesting.
160HP standard engine with combustion having to generate power for valves,
lifters, rockers, haul the other 3 cyl. around for the ride vs. 180 which is
rediculously smooth, no valves, no lifters, no rockers rotors turning at
2000 RPMS with the crank turns at 6K. Hum, you do the math. Since I am a
CPA I've been accused of making 2+2 equal 5 but in this case, it was "simple
math". Just thinking out loud here, with a Subaru you still have a typical
internal combustion engine but now you've added water and
reduction..........why not just install a Lyc??
>
>They may not have some components you mention but I recall from the 80s
>when
>a friend had an early rx7 that they did have some kind of main seal or
>something unique that did need regular checkup and occasional replacing
>that was a
>royal pain to do.
There's nothing else in the engine other than the two rotors and their
seals. Look at either of the above site and you will see the seals
available. I can't tell what you are referring too but the second
generation engine is the engine of choice, 89-91.
>
>How do the rotary guys who have to roll their own figure out what to do
>safely enough?
The engine is proven in aviation use. While you can certainly "roll your
own", enough people have gone down the path to lay valid information and
products to make the install fairly painless. The following company makes
the engine mounts to fit the Van's cowl.
http://www.conversionconcepts.com/rv-6-7.htm . I'll be buying the mount and
intake system and "spark" system. What else concerns you?
>
>I mean, the engine is where I generally feel the least compelled to be
>"experimental" so I love lycomings in that sense. I don't even look at
>Rotarys
>because of the lack of a FWF package. Are all the components and a
>specific
>enough set of instructions available so that if you did all the purchasing
>yourself
>there's at least some good guidance? Are all the components needed that
>are
>unique premade and avaialable and it's just a matter of finding the
>appropriate vendor?
I think the above sites will get you going on what is available. My
personnal opinion, and it's an opinion only, is if you have the mechanical
ability to build an RV you have the mechanical ability to rebuild an engine.
Just my opinion.
>
>Sounds interesting. Hope it works out!
There are so many of these rotaries flying out there, the "hope" is taken
out of the sentence. It should read "It works out".
This certainly isn't for everyone, it is for me and money was the only issue
in the decision. It worked in with simplicity of install, reliability,
maintainance, replacement cost. It turned into a pretty easy decision for
me.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Say good-bye to spam, viruses and pop-ups with MSN Premium -- free trial
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Attaching gear legs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Mike,
My RV-7A is sitting on 2 saw horses with a 2x4 with 2 layers of carpeting on
top. I attached the carpet material with roofing nails into the sides of the
2x4s, then attached the 2x4s to the saw horses with a drywall screw at each
end deeply counterbored, and not tightened, so they can tip to assume the angle
of the bottom of the fuselage and spread the load evenly. You need about 31
inches off the floor to get the gear legs in. One saw horse is just behind the
exhaust pipes as close to the front of the fuse as possible. The other is
under the wing spar bulkhead. To get it up to this level, I used 2x6s, wood
blocks, and cement blocks. Use carpeting to pad the bottom of the fuselage while
raising it 1 1/2 inches at a time. The CG is close to the front saw horse
and you can go to the tail end and raise it to add blocks under the rear saw
horse area. Use a bottle jack under the nose gear socket padded with a block of
wood to raise the front. It took probably an hour or two to raise it up
enough to finally get the saw horses under it.
Hope this helps.
Dan Hopper RV-7A almost done in N IN
In a message dated 2/18/04 12:47:21 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
hollandm@pacbell.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
> Any good ideas on how to lift the fuselage to attach my 9A gear? I have an
> engine hoist but I don't think it will lift high enough. And I don't really
> have a good situation for an overhead hoist either (9 foot garage ceiling).
>
> Thanks
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: engines, engines, engines - wonderful to have choicesfor |
once?
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Dana,
Flying on the 28th? The 28th of what? I'm going to have mine flying on the
28th too, but I don't know of what!
Cheers, Dan RV-7A almost done!
In a message dated 2/17/04 7:54:31 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
bo124rs@hotmail.com writes:
>
> No valves, no cam, no rods, no lifters.......................I'll have it at
>
> the flyin on the 28th.
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
> do not archive
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Carbon Fiber Prince "P" Tip? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
I am posting this for a friend who is building an RV3.
-----------------------------------------------------
Does anyone have a comment or advise on the Carbon
Fiber Prince "P" Tip
Prop? Any information on this type prop would be
appreciated.
I am looking at purchasing a prop like this for
my RV-3B but some
of
the Indy guys don't have much good to say about it. I
am planning on going to look at
this prop on Sat. Any information you get I would
like to see. This
prop
is one of the more expensive ones........ I want to
be sure it is what
I
want. I need to go Fast! Thanks for your help!
Thanks!
Dave Sloan
Operation Supervisor
3rd Shift Test, ALA, and NOPS
Caterpillar, Inc. LEC
Phone: (765) 448-2593
Fax: (765) 448-5897
sloandw@cat.com
__________________________________
http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Attaching gear legs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
I used an engine hoist attached to the motor mount and it easily raised
it high enough. I didn't even get close to my 10' ceiling. I'm building
a 7, for a nosegear airplane you might need to block up the tail first.
Neil
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Holland
Subject: RV-List: Attaching gear legs
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Any good ideas on how to lift the fuselage to attach my 9A gear? I have
an engine hoist but I don't think it will lift high enough. And I don't
really have a good situation for an overhead hoist either (9 foot
garage ceiling).
Thanks
==
==
==
==
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Another transponder check question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
In a message dated 2/17/2004 6:00:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, rv6_flyer@hotmail.com
writes:
> The RMI MicroEncoder can be adjusted from the front panel if it needs it.
> The only way you will need to pull the unit out is if it is
> broken and needs
> a part inside replaced.
Been there, done that (you can "break" stuff in there if you allow rainwater inside
the unit), but the only adjustment I am aware of, front panel or otherwise,
is a new download of data table for whatever sensor might be "off" Is there
something else I am not aware of?
Harking back to the older thread, I believe if the calibration were ever to drift
off for the encoder, the observant pilot would notice it right away when he
set the altimeter to local barometer and was not reading very close to published
field elevation on the ramp. Never happened to me. Like I said, if this
is your sole altimeter, "correspondence" becomes an oxymoron. Still, the regs
are convoluted enough to be troubling in this instance...
-Bill B
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
Great post on rotary engines.
At 07:25 AM 2/18/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I am totally convinced and plan to run a rotary on my RV-7 (when
it get to that point.) I'm a handy sort that enjoys fabricating custom
parts etc. (I have a buddy with a 3 ton CNC machine in his garage and I
love to do CAD.)
I haven't been able to find much specific information on
turbo-charging. I have seen a few pictures, but that is it. Does anyone
have information on turbo selection, plumbing, intercooler selection,
controls, etc?
I was also wondering about the new Renesis rotary engine. I know I
can get a factory "crate" engine, but what about the stuff that I need that
won't come with the crate engine? Do ancillary parts from older engines
fit? Would I be smarter in hunting up a complete used engine from overseas?
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: leather upholstery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Thanks for the "samples". I could upholster my house with all of these. Do
you want me to send the samples after I make my choice? Im guessing yes.
Can you recommend a particular line of leather for durability/rv use? Ive
narrowed it down to 4 colors but dont really have a preference other than
potential durability.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: leather upholstery
> --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 1/27/2004 9:17:30 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> shempdowling@earthlink.net writes:
>
> > Does anyone have a good source for enough leather to cover 2 seats?
> >
> > tia
> > Jeff Dowling
> > RV-6A, N915JD
> > 9 hours
> > Chicago/Louisville
> >
>
> Jeff:
>
> I am in the furniture manufacturing business. My company does a lot of
> leather business. I am producing seats right now for friends but will
soon launch
> the business of aircraft seats.
>
> I can help you with leather. We stock about 350 leathers but I am using
only
> one pattern for my RV seats ... very durable and has about 55 colors to
> choose from.
>
> Let me know if you are interested. I will send you some samples.
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensboro, NC N910LL
> 196 hrs
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: DAVAWALKER@aol.com
Ed, Thanks for the response. May have already done this, can't remember.
Dale Walker
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV-List Picture of Turbo Subaru 2.2 in a RV-4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
Part of the Subaru engine thread......Subaru interested RV-ers might like to see
this Subaru engine in a RV-4
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
I know ELT's are required for Civil Aircraft. Does this also apply to
Experimental?
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
N924PL (reserved)
RV4 finishing
Bay City, Michigan
Do Not Archive
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
Getting ready to paint my RV4 with PPG Concept. This kit has been around for
almost 20 years and there is something I call white rust on some of the skins.
What do I need to do to get ready for paint? I'm thinking that using
Alumiprep, then Alodine, and then some hi build primer (??) to cover up any pitting
may be in the aluminum. Any advise?
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
N924PL (reserved)
RV4 finishing
Bay City, Michigan
Do Not Archive
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
On Wed, 18 Feb 2004, Bill Dube wrote:
> I haven't been able to find much specific information on
> turbo-charging. I have seen a few pictures, but that is it. Does anyone
> have information on turbo selection, plumbing, intercooler selection,
> controls, etc?
So far as I know, the best book on turbocharging out there is Turbocharging, by
Hugh MacInnes. It's been around for years, but I don't think anybody has
topped it. My edition doesn't cover rotaries, but there might be a later
edition that does.
I believe there are some special considerations for turbocharging rotaries.
MacInnes does cover two-stroke engines in his book, and I suspect a lot of what
he discusses there would apply to rotaries as well, since they are like
two-strokes with respect to induction and exhaust.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
do not archive
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ELT Required?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
FAA requires ELT on all aircraft, except single place aircraft.
An ELT is recommended for single place aircraft.
Jim Ayers
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Yes.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of PGLong@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: ELT Required??
--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
I know ELT's are required for Civil Aircraft. Does this also apply to
Experimental?
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
N924PL (reserved)
RV4 finishing
Bay City, Michigan
Do Not Archive
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: engines, engines, engines - wonderful to have choicesfor |
once?
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
On Wed, 18 Feb 2004, Dana Overall wrote:
> >How do they rate compared to the Subaru 2.5 XT head to head? That would be
> >interesting.
>
> 160HP standard engine with combustion having to generate power for valves,
> lifters, rockers, haul the other 3 cyl. around for the ride vs. 180 which is
> rediculously smooth, no valves, no lifters, no rockers rotors turning at
> 2000 RPMS with the crank turns at 6K. Hum, you do the math.
I'm not sure what you're driving at here, but just so there's no confusion you
will get better SFC with the Subaru than a rotary. There are really only two
drawbacks to the rotary, both inherent in the design and thus unavoidable.
First, because of how they breathe they have lower BSFC than piston engines
(i.e. more fuel burned to make the same amount of power). Second, the exhaust
is inherently louder, and a relatively complex exhaust system is required to
both produce decent power and keep the noise sane. That adds weight, cost, and
heat inside the cowling.
This is not a criticism of the rotary. I think it is in priniciple the best
choice for an auto conversion. I wish Eggenfellner would apply his obvious
skill and engineering acumen to the rotary.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
If you want to know about rotaries and turbo charging, you might contact
Racing Beat in Los Angeles. They have been around a long time and know
rotaries. As far as turboing a rotary it must have low compression rotors.
At 09:00 AM 2/18/04 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
>
>On Wed, 18 Feb 2004, Bill Dube wrote:
>
>> I haven't been able to find much specific information on
>> turbo-charging. I have seen a few pictures, but that is it. Does anyone
>> have information on turbo selection, plumbing, intercooler selection,
>> controls, etc?
>
>So far as I know, the best book on turbocharging out there is
Turbocharging, by
>Hugh MacInnes. It's been around for years, but I don't think anybody has
>topped it. My edition doesn't cover rotaries, but there might be a later
>edition that does.
>
>I believe there are some special considerations for turbocharging rotaries.
>MacInnes does cover two-stroke engines in his book, and I suspect a lot of
what
>he discusses there would apply to rotaries as well, since they are like
>two-strokes with respect to induction and exhaust.
>
>Tedd McHenry
>Surrey, BC
>do not archive
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> FAA requires ELT on all aircraft, except single place aircraft.
>
> An ELT is recommended for single place aircraft.
>
> Jim Ayers
I believe it is only needed in planes carrying more than one, regardless
of the number of seats.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 438 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: White Rust?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Pat,
The "White Rust" is what happens to Aluminum when it oxidizes, or is the Aluminum
version of rust.
You need to get rid of it before you paint!!
Scotchbrite pads seem to work well if it's light. If it's deep, you may need to
take some very fine sandpaper and remove it.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: PGLong@aol.com
>--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
>
>Getting ready to paint my RV4 with PPG Concept. This kit has been around for
>almost 20 years and there is something I call white rust on some of the skins.
>What do I need to do to get ready for paint? I'm thinking that using
>Alumiprep, then Alodine, and then some hi build primer (??) to cover up any pitting
>may be in the aluminum. Any advise?
>
>
>Pat Long
>PGLong@aol.com
>N924PL (reserved)
>RV4 finishing
>Bay City, Michigan
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
On Wed, 18 Feb 2004, Bill Dube wrote:
> I haven't been able to find much specific information on
> turbo-charging. I have seen a few pictures, but that is it. Does anyone
> have information on turbo selection, plumbing, intercooler selection,
> controls, etc?
So far as I know, the best book on turbocharging out there is Turbocharging, by
Hugh MacInnes. It's been around for years, but I don't think anybody has
topped it. My edition doesn't cover rotaries, but there might be a later
edition that does.
I believe there are some special considerations for turbocharging rotaries.
MacInnes does cover two-stroke engines in his book, and I suspect a lot of what
he discusses there would apply to rotaries as well, since they are like
two-strokes with respect to induction and exhaust.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
do not archive
Well, there are some similarities to two strokes but none of them will apply to
the turbocharging issue. They are at opposite extreams in terms of EGTs. Turbonetics
has a new turbine material (better than Inconel but I can't remember
the name at the moment) for high temps that I would consider a must in rotary
turbos in aircraft.
Having said that, I would only install a turbo if I were a masochist bent on putting
myself through as much torture as possible. If the rotary were what I wanted
and I needed more power, I'd go with the new Renesis rotary engine (230
HP normally aspirated) or the 20B 3 rotor (270 HP). I'm doing one of each,
Renesis on the -4 to replace the 185 HP 2nd gen rotary and a 20B on the -8.
Tracy Crook
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> --> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> > FAA requires ELT on all aircraft, except single place aircraft.
> >
> > An ELT is recommended for single place aircraft.
> >
> > Jim Ayers
>
> I believe it is only needed in planes carrying more than one,
> regardless of the number of seats.
>
> Alex Peterson
I stand corrected - it is required if the plane is equipped to carry
more than one person. An exception is perhaps during the test flight
phase of flight:
(5) New aircraft while engaged in flight operations incident to their
manufacture, preparation, and delivery;
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 438 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ELT Required?? not always |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
PGLong@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
>
> I know ELT's are required for Civil Aircraft. Does this also apply to
> Experimental?
>
> Pat Long
> PGLong@aol.com
> N924PL (reserved)
> RV4 finishing
> Bay City, Michigan
>
> Do Not Archive
All experimentals don't have to have them and also all standard category
planes don't either. There are some exceptions..
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: engines, Rotary, engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> SNIP <
There are so many of these rotaries flying out there, the "hope" is taken
out of the sentence. It should read "It works out".
This certainly isn't for everyone, it is for me and money was the only issue
in the decision. It worked in with simplicity of install, reliability,
maintainance, replacement cost. It turned into a pretty easy decision for
me.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
I agree with Dana, the rotary engine definitely works but at the same time I will
be the first to admit that, at this time, it or any other alternative engine
is the wrong choice for at least 95% of aircraft builders. If you don't have
a burning desire to do it, forget it. If resale value is a primary concern,
forget it.
If the idea just turns you on, do it!
Tracy Crook
13B Rotary powered RV-4 1350+ hrs of Hmmm.......
20B powered RV-8, still hangar flying..
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Attaching gear legs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Mike;
For my -6A, I shaped a couple of 2x6s to match the underside of the
fuselage, spaced them about 12" apart with 2x6 crosspieces, added a sheet of
1/4" ply to form sort of a cradle, a sheet of scrap carpet for cushioning,
and then used bottle jacks under the 2x6s to lift the whole works. I put
some blocking in place (milk crates, scrap 2x6s, etc) to create a solid base
and then lowered the "cradle" to have a firm platform to climb into the
cockpit (many times!) to install the infamous -6A center section bolt set.
Your -7A should be a good deal simpler than this but the cradle - bottle
jack system should work to get the initial lift.
Jim Oke
RV-3
RV-6A
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Attaching gear legs
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
> Any good ideas on how to lift the fuselage to attach my 9A gear? I have
an engine hoist but I don't think it will lift high enough. And I don't
really have a good situation for an overhead hoist either (9 foot garage
ceiling).
>
> Thanks
>
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ELT Required?? not always |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
Be sure & check the latest regarding ELT's. Some new rules as of 1-1-04 but not
sure who was affected.
DP
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ELT Required?? not always |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Okay Mike, step up and let us know what's the case. Do all experimental
have to have ELT's or can we use the new improve personal locators?
Thanks Chuck
----- Original Message ----- > > --> RV-List message posted by:
PGLong@aol.com
> >
> > I know ELT's are required for Civil Aircraft. Does this also apply to
> > Experimental?
> >
> > Pat Long
>
> All experimentals don't have to have them and also all standard category
> planes don't either. There are some exceptions..
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kysh <vans-dragon@lapdragon.org>
> I'd go with the new Renesis rotary engine (230 HP normally aspirated)
> or the 20B 3 rotor (270 HP).
Is there any significant weight difference between the 13B and the Renesis?
What's the difference in weight for the 20B? (And where the heck did you
get one? Car conversion people on the RX-7 lists seem to have trouble
finding them for conversion)
-Kysh
Who would love to see a 3-rotor -8. RV or RX is up to the reader.
--
| 'Life begins at 120kias' - http://www.lapdragon.org/flying |
| CBR-F4 streetbike - http://www.lapdragon.org/cbr |
| 1968 Mustang fastback - http://www.lapdragon.org/mustang |
| Got 'nix? - http://www.infrastructure.org/ |
| KG6FOB - http://www.lapdragon.org/ham |
| Give blood: Play Hockey! http://www.unixdragon.com/ |
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Listers,
There is no question in my mind that lines carrying fuel in front of the
firewall should be insulated with fireshield.
My question is about using fireshield on oil lines. I am sure that there
is a variety of opinions and practices out there regarding the need for
or protection by fireshield on oil lines. I would appreciate your
considered opinions and biases.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A final details
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | New Strobe solution... |
rv8list@yahoogroups.com, vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Ok, I know a lot of you have been waiting for this... My new AVI-PAK strobe
power pack is in production now, and should be ready to ship in a couple
weeks, and I am taking pre-orders now!
http://www.creativair.com/ex-stb/index.htm
-Bill
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Time: 09:00:29 AM PST US
From: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell@door.net>
Subject: RV-List: SPRAYLAT
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell@door.net>
Has anyone applied SPRAYLAT to their canopy with a brush? What were the
results?
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
DO NOT ARCHIVE!
one year is too much,
put it on thick so it doesn't peel in shreds
I put tape on top of the spraylat and that helped protect, while the
spraylat kept the tape from bonding.
W
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
AC43.13 2A has the formula for calculating antenna drag/load.
Chapter 3
W
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Kysh <vans-dragon@lapdragon.org>
> I'd go with the new Renesis rotary engine (230 HP normally aspirated)
> or the 20B 3 rotor (270 HP).
Is there any significant weight difference between the 13B and the Renesis?
What's the difference in weight for the 20B? (And where the heck did you
get one? Car conversion people on the RX-7 lists seem to have trouble
finding them for conversion)
-Kysh
Who would love to see a 3-rotor -8. RV or RX is up to the reader.
The Renesis is about 10 pounds lighter than the earlier 13Bs which end up weighing
about the same as an O - 320 Lyc. with all systems needed to fly. This will
of course depend on how weight conscious you are when planning your installation
(and there is a lot of that to do).
The 20B is 67 pounds heavier than earlier 13B. 20B "long block" weighs 247 lbs.
2nd & 3rd gen 13B weighs 180, Renesis is about 170. I'll know more precisely
when my engine builder Bruce Turrentine delivers mine next month. That's about
the only way to get one (built from parts) until Mazda catches up with demand.
Crate motors will be available when they do. I'd still opt to have mine
built because there are some custom things I want done inside and the price
is about the same anyway. I got my 20B the same way.
Tracy Crook
"Sooner or later, you'll fly a rotary" : )
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks@aol.com>
I had some corrosion on skins and I used Scotchbrite pads and an aluminum etch
and scrubbed until it was removed. I used a vinyl wash self etching primer from
NAPA to prime all my inside parts. The exterior priming wasn't done until ready
to paint.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
Charleston,Arkansas
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: New Strobe solution... |
--> RV-List message posted by: <benandginny@insightbb.com>
Bill,
I noticed on your web site that it says the strobes must be under some type
of cover. How about just the RV clear wing tip? Or is a small glass dome
needed for some reason. I have your NAV LEDs & VonDanes Landing Lights and
would like to keep the strobe profile low so I can mount them in the space
in front of the NAV lights. I planned on just drilling the 1 inch hole and
stickin' them in.
Ben Cunningham
RV7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
<rv-list@matronics.com>; <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>; "vansairforce"
<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: New Strobe solution...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
> Ok, I know a lot of you have been waiting for this... My new AVI-PAK
strobe
> power pack is in production now, and should be ready to ship in a couple
> weeks, and I am taking pre-orders now!
>
> http://www.creativair.com/ex-stb/index.htm
>
> -Bill
>
>
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
<rv8list@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Re: New Strobe solution... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
This is the solution you want... The lexan cover that comes with the wing
tip is enough... This is exactly how I have then installed in my -8A:
http://www.creativair.com/ex75-nav/3.jpg
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <benandginny@insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Strobe solution...
--> RV-List message posted by: <benandginny@insightbb.com>
Bill,
I noticed on your web site that it says the strobes must be under some type
of cover. How about just the RV clear wing tip? Or is a small glass dome
needed for some reason. I have your NAV LEDs & VonDanes Landing Lights and
would like to keep the strobe profile low so I can mount them in the space
in front of the NAV lights. I planned on just drilling the 1 inch hole and
stickin' them in.
Ben Cunningham
RV7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
<rv-list@matronics.com>; <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>; "vansairforce"
<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: New Strobe solution...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
> Ok, I know a lot of you have been waiting for this... My new AVI-PAK
strobe
> power pack is in production now, and should be ready to ship in a couple
> weeks, and I am taking pre-orders now!
>
> http://www.creativair.com/ex-stb/index.htm
>
> -Bill
>
>
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Making the right kit choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Hi All,
I'm looking for some advice. I currently
have a Glasair 1FT that I bought already built.
After being around the experimental crowd for awhile,
I'm considering building an airplane (whoda thunk?!) :-)
I don't think fiberglass is an option for me due to
the fumes and my allergies, and I choose not to
build tube and fabric, or wood. I think a metal plane
is the way for me. Out of all the choices, I think the
RV planes are at the top of my list. I've been looking at
the RV-7A and RV-9A, but I think they have some of the
same limitations as my Glasair - namely lack of
baggage space and/or easy access to the baggage space.
So the RV-10 looks very attractive to me.
The basic question I have, is the RV-10 (quickbuild)
a little ambitious for a first time builder?
Best guess, it looks like the RV-10 would be about
$30k more than the -7 or -9 (quick build options, and
engine). Is this about right?
Or should I start with something a little
simpler, like a Zodiac XL?
Thanks,
-Dj
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Antenna drag |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>AC43.13 2A has the formula for calculating antenna drag/load.
>
>Chapter 3
>
>W
>
The formula in AC43.13-2A appears to be designed for antennae with a
streamline shape, not a whip antenna.
Looking at Fluid Dynamic Drag, by Hoerner, it seems that we can
probably assume a drag coefficient (Cd) of approximately 0.5 for a
whip antenna (test data in figure 13 on page 3-9). Drag is equal to
the dynamic pressure times frontal area times the Cd. Dynamic
pressure (lb per square foot) at sea level equals the speed in mph
squared, divided by 391 (from Hoerner, eqn. 16 on page 1-10). So, if
we figure out the frontal area of the antenna in square inches, we
get:
drag = speed squared times frontal area times Cd divided by 56,304
drag in pounds,
speed in mph
frontal area in square inches
I don't have an antenna to measure, so I'll just make some numbers up
for illustration. If we have an antenna 20 inches long, with a
diameter of 3/16 inch, we get a frontal area of 20 * 0.1875 = 3.75
square inches. At 200 mph the drag would be: 200 x 200 x 3.75 x 0.5
/ 56,304 = 1.3 lb. Power required = speed x force. 200 mph x 5280
ft/mile x 3600 sec/hour = 293 ft/sec. So, the power in ft-lb/sec =
293 x 1.3 = 381. One hp = 550 ft-lb/sec, so it takes 381/550 = 0.69
hp to drag that antenna around. If our prop efficiency is about 0.8,
that means we need 0.69/0.8 = 0.87 engine horse power to drag that
antenna.
Looking at it another way, if your top speed was 200 mph without the
antenna, and you had a 180 hp engine, and a prop efficiency of 0.8,
then your total drag was about 180 x 0.8 x 550/293 = 270 lb. So
adding that antenna would increase the drag about 1.3/270 = 0.0048,
or about 0.5%. One antenna doesn't make a big difference, but if
they start breeding like rabbits they would have a measurable effect.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Antenna drag |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
I'm sorry, I can't resist, I think you have way too much time on your hands.
Glenn in Arizona -9A
DO NOT ARCHIVE
> The formula in AC43.13-2A appears to be designed for antennae with a
> streamline shape, not a whip antenna.
>
> Looking at Fluid Dynamic Drag, by Hoerner, it seems that we can
> probably assume a drag coefficient (Cd) of approximately 0.5 for a
> whip antenna (test data in figure 13 on page 3-9). Drag is equal to
> the dynamic pressure times frontal area times the Cd. Dynamic
> pressure (lb per square foot) at sea level equals the speed in mph
> squared, divided by 391 (from Hoerner, eqn. 16 on page 1-10). So, if
> we figure out the frontal area of the antenna in square inches, we
> get:
>
> drag = speed squared times frontal area times Cd divided by 56,304
>
> drag in pounds,
> speed in mph
> frontal area in square inches
>
> I don't have an antenna to measure, so I'll just make some numbers up
> for illustration. If we have an antenna 20 inches long, with a
> diameter of 3/16 inch, we get a frontal area of 20 * 0.1875 = 3.75
> square inches. At 200 mph the drag would be: 200 x 200 x 3.75 x 0.5
> / 56,304 = 1.3 lb. Power required = speed x force. 200 mph x 5280
> ft/mile x 3600 sec/hour = 293 ft/sec. So, the power in ft-lb/sec > 293 x 1.3
= 381. One hp = 550 ft-lb/sec, so it takes 381/550 = 0.69
> hp to drag that antenna around. If our prop efficiency is about 0.8,
> that means we need 0.69/0.8 = 0.87 engine horse power to drag that
> antenna.
>
> Looking at it another way, if your top speed was 200 mph without the
> antenna, and you had a 180 hp engine, and a prop efficiency of 0.8,
> then your total drag was about 180 x 0.8 x 550/293 = 270 lb. So
> adding that antenna would increase the drag about 1.3/270 = 0.0048,
> or about 0.5%. One antenna doesn't make a big difference, but if
> they start breeding like rabbits they would have a measurable effect.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making the right kit choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
It depends on what you want, how soon you want it and how much you can
afford. As far as I am concerned, the RV10 just has a bit larger
parts. It will require more money and more labor, but you will have to
learn exactly the same skills as building any other of the RVs.
If the RV10 had been available when I started I might have chosen it
rather than my RV9A, although in reality the 9A will do what I need 95%
of the time.
My $0.02.
Dick Tasker, RV9A
Dj Merrill wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
>
>Hi All,
> I'm looking for some advice. I currently
>have a Glasair 1FT that I bought already built.
>After being around the experimental crowd for awhile,
>I'm considering building an airplane (whoda thunk?!) :-)
>
> I don't think fiberglass is an option for me due to
>the fumes and my allergies, and I choose not to
>build tube and fabric, or wood. I think a metal plane
>is the way for me. Out of all the choices, I think the
>RV planes are at the top of my list. I've been looking at
>the RV-7A and RV-9A, but I think they have some of the
>same limitations as my Glasair - namely lack of
>baggage space and/or easy access to the baggage space.
>So the RV-10 looks very attractive to me.
>
> The basic question I have, is the RV-10 (quickbuild)
>a little ambitious for a first time builder?
>
> Best guess, it looks like the RV-10 would be about
>$30k more than the -7 or -9 (quick build options, and
>engine). Is this about right?
>
> Or should I start with something a little
>simpler, like a Zodiac XL?
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Dj
>
>
>
>
Message 41
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Attaching gear legs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
The fuse is on a rolling cart (carpeted) about 18" off the floor. Very convenient
for wiring, etc. I'm about done with that and have been considering various
options. The wings and engine are not yet installed but the engine mount,
with a relatively light fuselage, is a very attractive lift point.
I'm inclined to attach the engine mount to a ceiling mounted come-along and support
the tail cone with the cradle, which I will move progressively rearward as
the font is lifted. Once I have the mains sufficiently high to insert into
the fixtures I will lower the assembly, secure the mains and finish with the nose
wheel.
If I don't drop the damn thing or encounter any major calamity, I'll report back
to the group.
Cheers,
Mike Holland
A 9A in the oven.
Message 42
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Antenna drag |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna drag
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
> I'm sorry, I can't resist, I think you have way too much time on your
hands.
> Glenn in Arizona -9A
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> > The formula in AC43.13-2A appears to be designed for antennae with a
> > streamline shape, not a whip antenna.
> >
I wouldn't say Kevin has too much time on his hands, although I know he
spends time in motel rooms far from home. I was just impressed, once more,
with the level of expertise of CERTAIN listers.
Do not archive
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 43
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rotary engines (was: engines, engines....) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>The 20B is 67 pounds heavier than earlier 13B. 20B "long block" weighs 247
>lbs. 2nd & 3rd gen 13B weighs 180, Renesis is about 170. I'll know more
>precisely when my engine builder Bruce Turrentine delivers mine next month.
> That's about the only way to get one (built from parts) until Mazda
>catches up with demand.
Actually I talked with Paul at Mazmart in Atlanta the other day. He told me
they have 4 Renesis engines from already wrecked RX-8s.
BTW, I just talked with Bruce and he is too busy on your Renesis to get mine
back before the flyin on the 28th:-(
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Message 44
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Antenna drag |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Kevin,
Thanks for the explanation of how to calculate antenna drag. That was
exactly the kind of information I was hoping someone on the list would share.
Dan RV-7A (almost finished)
Message 45
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making the right kit choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
Dj, you would be hard pressed to find a better kitplane than an RV,
regardless of model. But, having finished an 8A, I can tell you it's a HUGE task
that
takes dedication, discipline and many hours of work. In my case it was mostly
enjoyable, though there were some sleepless nights worrying about the problem
of the day.
I reckon nonone except you can answer the question of whether you can finish
such a project. If you do decide on an RV though, my advice is to build a
quickbuild 9A or 7A. I don't really know much about building a 10, but I do know
it's bigger and most likely more complicated, and certainly more expensive.
From what I've heard and read, the 9A is pretty simple to build (that may be my
next project). It doesn't require jigging the empennage, nor the fuselage (am I
right here 9a builders?).
Walt Shipley RV-8A N314TS
Message 46
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making the right kit choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Dj,
My personal feeling is that the RV 10 is as good a place to start as any. To
me these kits are almost like signing up for AME 101. The Vans instructions
start with the simpler concepts of sheet metal fabrication and gradually
lead you through to being the owner and maintainer of substantial aircraft
that is
solidly placed on the leading edge of the OBAM (Owner Built And Maintained)
aircraft movement.
The learning curve seems steep at first. However with great support from
Vans, the various email lists, forums, EAA groups (the RAA in Canada) and
the hidden resource of fellow builders in the local area things come
together.
The ups and downs of building an aircraft are soon (well, in my case 7 years
{[;-)) left behind at a cruising speed that most certified can't touch, and
at a price that is far less that the certified marketplace can ever hope to
compete with.
If four place non aerobatic suits your needs start there. It is up to you to
think it out and buy the airframe that will provide the biggest and longest
lasting grin.
My "slow build" RV6-A is in the final stages of wiring and The fun and
frustrations have helped me develop a warped sense of humor and some
patience. With a whole group of new faces and friends thrown in for free I
think I'm safe in suggesting these RV kits are one hell of a deal.
I expect that my wife and I and about 80 to 100 pounds of gear will travel
cross country quite well in the RV 6A. That of course includes the hand
bag!!! (;-]!
I don't think your far off the mark in your cost estimates.
I don't think the Zodiac line or any other kit type or kind is really that
much if at all any simpler in the long run.
You might want to examine the re-sale values of the various finished kits
and include your findings in the data that leads you to that final choice. I
think the RV 10 will find a good price when done.
Good flights and greased landings,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dj Merrill" <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Subject: RV-List: Making the right kit choice
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
>
> Hi All,
> I'm looking for some advice. I currently
> have a Glasair 1FT that I bought already built.
> After being around the experimental crowd for awhile,
> I'm considering building an airplane (whoda thunk?!) :-)
>
> I don't think fiberglass is an option for me due to
> the fumes and my allergies, and I choose not to
> build tube and fabric, or wood. I think a metal plane
> is the way for me. Out of all the choices, I think the
> RV planes are at the top of my list. I've been looking at
> the RV-7A and RV-9A, but I think they have some of the
> same limitations as my Glasair - namely lack of
> baggage space and/or easy access to the baggage space.
> So the RV-10 looks very attractive to me.
>
> The basic question I have, is the RV-10 (quickbuild)
> a little ambitious for a first time builder?
>
> Best guess, it looks like the RV-10 would be about
> $30k more than the -7 or -9 (quick build options, and
> engine). Is this about right?
>
> Or should I start with something a little
> simpler, like a Zodiac XL?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Dj
>
>
Message 47
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making the right kit choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 2/18/04 8:27:30 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
RVEIGHTA@aol.com writes:
>
> Dj, you would be hard pressed to find a better kitplane than an RV,
> regardless of model. But, having finished an 8A, I can tell you it's a HUGE
> task that
> takes dedication, discipline and many hours of work. In my case it was
> mostly
> enjoyable, though there were some sleepless nights worrying about the
> problem
> of the day.
>
> I reckon nonone except you can answer the question of whether you can finish
>
> such a project. If you do decide on an RV though, my advice is to build a
> quickbuild 9A or 7A. I don't really know much about building a 10, but I do
> know
> it's bigger and most likely more complicated, and certainly more expensive.
> From what I've heard and read, the 9A is pretty simple to build (that may be
> my
> next project). It doesn't require jigging the empennage, nor the fuselage
> (am I
> right here 9a builders?).
>
> Walt Shipley RV-8A N314TS
>
>
Dj,
I agree 100% with Walt. You're right about requiring no fuselage jigs, and I
hear some builders don't even use wing jigs. Even though the 7A and 9A are
simple to build, they still require a lot of time and there are still
frustrations. I didn't go the quick build way because of the lead time (at the
time).
But, I have found that Van's matched hole technology is nearly perfect. This
certainly makes the plane go together quicker and straighter than before, but
there are still some hard areas to get through. For me, doing the metal work
was very enjoyable and went fairly well. The matched holes and the
step-by-step instructions keep that part of the job moving along smoothly. That
took
about 2 years. I'm retired and work on it about 5 hours on an average day.
I'm slower than Vans average builder, I know. Doing the canopy, firewall
forward, and instrument panel has taken about 1 year even with the firewall forward
kit. That will be the same for a quick build, too. Having said that, I'm not
sure if the quick build will save you as much time as you may think. It may
have saved me about 30 percent of the time I have spent. And that is really
hard to estimate because I'm sure I learned a lot of metal skills by not going
the quick build route.
The RV-10 looks like it may be easier around the canopy area than the -7 or
-9, although I don't know that for sure -- guys?
I tell people that I finally know what the hardest part of the plane is to
build. They always say, "What?" And I say, "The part I'm involved in right
now!" There's really a lot of truth to that. It seems like it all takes about
all the talent I can come up with. But, so far, I have managed to get through
every stage, and it is really beautiful. (Not just my opinion!) And I'm
pretty sure it will fly this Spring.
Jump in -- Van's is great to deal with and they are fine airplanes.
My $.02!
Dan RV-7A (Almost done)
Message 48
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making the right kit choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
DJ, just to add absolutely nothing to the process.....................many
people call the pre-punched kits.............snap together airplanes. I
proudly call myself an "assembler". We leave the builder label to the 3,4
and 6 builders (at least that's what we say in public to keep em happy:-)
Seriously, you won't find an easier kit to "build" than the pre-punched RV
series. Buy you some tools, order the emp then skip happily down the yellow
brick road!! (Man, I've been doing way too many tax returns)
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee when you click here.
Message 49
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making the right kit choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Richard Tasker wrote:
> It depends on what you want, how soon you want it and how much you can
> afford. As far as I am concerned, the RV10 just has a bit larger
> parts. It will require more money and more labor, but you will have to
> learn exactly the same skills as building any other of the RVs.
Hmmm - well, "what I want" is always the hardest question
to answer, isn't it? *grin* Followed by, well, okay, now that
I think I know what I want, how much can I really afford?
Time-wise, I am not in any position to build right now, but
hope to be within the year. In that time, I'm hoping to make
the choice of what to build, and when the time is right I can
then make the choice when to start building.
Basic thought is to buy the RV-? in pieces over
the next few years, and continue flying the Glasair in the
meantime. Once the airframe is far enough along, sell
the Glasair to afford the engine. At least that sounds good
on (virtual) paper... :-)
> If the RV10 had been available when I started I might have chosen it
> rather than my RV9A, although in reality the 9A will do what I need 95%
> of the time.
That's one of the things going through my mind as well.
I think the 9A would be great for local flights, which is
the majority of my flying (and about $30k cheaper), but how
practical would it be to take 2 people and baggage on a week long trip?
I don't think I can do it with my Glasair, and it appears that
the RV-9A has about the same amount of baggage space.
I'll be spending a significant amount of time examining the
various RV choices at Sun-n-Fun this year hoping to
answer that question (among others).
-Dj
Message 50
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making the right kit choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
RVEIGHTA@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
>
> Dj, you would be hard pressed to find a better kitplane than an RV,
> regardless of model. But, having finished an 8A, I can tell you it's a HUGE task
that
> takes dedication, discipline and many hours of work. In my case it was mostly
> enjoyable, though there were some sleepless nights worrying about the problem
> of the day.
Well, then I guess I am just as mentally warped as the
next builder, since that sounds like fun to me! *grin*
Seriously, though, it is a bit worrying. I keep looking
at the picture on the Van's site with the quickbuild RV-7A
parts laid out with the completed airplane in the background,
and all I can think is, "Damn, that's a lot of pieces!!!".
I'm going to sign up for a class or two, maybe do the
rudder starting kit, just to see if it is something I would
really enjoy. Of course, that's only the airframe.
Then there is the engine and FWF, avionics and wiring, etc etc.
But I'm preaching to the choir here... :-)
> I reckon nonone except you can answer the question of whether you can finish
> such a project. If you do decide on an RV though, my advice is to build a
> quickbuild 9A or 7A. I don't really know much about building a 10, but I do know
> it's bigger and most likely more complicated, and certainly more expensive.
>>From what I've heard and read, the 9A is pretty simple to build (that may be
my
> next project). It doesn't require jigging the empennage, nor the fuselage (am
I
> right here 9a builders?).
Whichever I pick, it would be the quickbuild for the
wings and fuselage. The 10 is somewhat more complicated
inside the fuselage due to the extra seats, but I think the
rest of it is on par with the 7 and 9 (right?). It is definitely
more expensive, which is a huge part of the vacillating between
the 9A and the 10 for me. For the extra $30k, I could have some
darn nice goodies in that 9A or a lot of 100LL!! :-)
-Dj
Message 51
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making the right kit choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Dana Overall wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> DJ, just to add absolutely nothing to the process.....................many
> people call the pre-punched kits.............snap together airplanes. I
> proudly call myself an "assembler". We leave the builder label to the 3,4
> and 6 builders (at least that's what we say in public to keep em happy:-)
Well, then I will call myself an assembler! *grin*
I used to love Legos when I was a kid, so snap together sounds
great to me! :-)
> Seriously, you won't find an easier kit to "build" than the pre-punched RV
> series. Buy you some tools, order the emp then skip happily down the yellow
> brick road!! (Man, I've been doing way too many tax returns)
Do they have the rudder starting kit for the 10?
I think they have it for the 7 and 9. That's a cheap
way to make sure I am up to the task.
-Dj
Message 52
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making the right kit choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
From my own experience (or lack thereof), before I started my project I
attended a EAA SportAir RV Assembly workshop. I found it well worth the
time and money.
Glenn in Arizona -9A wings, fuselage ordered.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dj Merrill" <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Making the right kit choice
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
>
> Dana Overall wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> >
> > DJ, just to add absolutely nothing to the
process.....................many
> > people call the pre-punched kits.............snap together airplanes. I
> > proudly call myself an "assembler". We leave the builder label to the
3,4
> > and 6 builders (at least that's what we say in public to keep em
happy:-)
>
> Well, then I will call myself an assembler! *grin*
> I used to love Legos when I was a kid, so snap together sounds
> great to me! :-)
>
Message 53
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making the right kit choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
What you need to do is find someone near you (or near enough to fly your
Glasair to) that is building an RV7 or RV9 with the matched hole
construction and look at their plane and talk to them (maybe buck a few
rivets if they need the help). The RV10 is essentially the same, just
larger. And, yes, Van's is shipping empennage kits for the RV10,
although the empennage kit for the RV10 actually includes the rear
section of the fuselage if I remember correctly.
If you are actually at Dartmouth (based on your email address) there are
several builders in NH that would be happy to talk to you I am sure. If
you want to see a really nice completed RV9A, Gary Newsted is near
Nashua (close by air to you).
I think that you will find that there is more baggage room than you
think and, depending on your combined weights, you can probably fill the
space to the top without exceeding the weight allowance (unless you pack
very heavy bags!)
Good Luck!
Dick Tasker
Dj Merrill wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
>
>Richard Tasker wrote:
>
>
>
>
>>It depends on what you want, how soon you want it and how much you can
>>afford. As far as I am concerned, the RV10 just has a bit larger
>>parts. It will require more money and more labor, but you will have to
>>learn exactly the same skills as building any other of the RVs.
>>
>>
>
> Hmmm - well, "what I want" is always the hardest question
>to answer, isn't it? *grin* Followed by, well, okay, now that
>I think I know what I want, how much can I really afford?
>Time-wise, I am not in any position to build right now, but
>hope to be within the year. In that time, I'm hoping to make
>the choice of what to build, and when the time is right I can
>then make the choice when to start building.
>
> Basic thought is to buy the RV-? in pieces over
>the next few years, and continue flying the Glasair in the
>meantime. Once the airframe is far enough along, sell
>the Glasair to afford the engine. At least that sounds good
>on (virtual) paper... :-)
>
>
>
>
>>If the RV10 had been available when I started I might have chosen it
>>rather than my RV9A, although in reality the 9A will do what I need 95%
>>of the time.
>>
>>
>
>
> That's one of the things going through my mind as well.
>I think the 9A would be great for local flights, which is
>the majority of my flying (and about $30k cheaper), but how
>practical would it be to take 2 people and baggage on a week long trip?
>I don't think I can do it with my Glasair, and it appears that
>the RV-9A has about the same amount of baggage space.
>I'll be spending a significant amount of time examining the
>various RV choices at Sun-n-Fun this year hoping to
>answer that question (among others).
>
>-Dj
>
>
Message 54
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Making the right kit choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Dj,
The baggage compartment of the 6/7/9 (A) has enough space to hold two of the
"roll - on" travel bags of the type that initally flight attendants used.
I have used such bags over the years to easily cover weeklong trips and this
included trips where I was wearing suits etc.
You can probably put three in there at about 25-30 lbs each. So if coverage
for a weekend is what you seek then I would not worry.
James
[SNIP]
>
> That's one of the things going through my mind as well.
> I think the 9A would be great for local flights, which is
> the majority of my flying (and about $30k cheaper), but how
> practical would it be to take 2 people and baggage on a week long trip?
>
Message 55
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re:Transponder Checks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks@aol.com>
This string has been as educational as a great big book would be. Thanks to all,and
especially Mike for all this free training.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191x
Charleston,Arkansas
Message 56
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | AIRCRAFT BATTERY |
--> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Hello listers
For the last 2 years in my RV-4,I've been using a GILL
G-25S sealed recombinant battery and the last few flights I did with this
battery were very troublesomes.I had to hand-propped the a/c a few times
and got stucked a couple a times at remote airports.
I had the battery checked today and with a full charge
(13 volts) as soon as a load (150 Amps) is applied, the voltage dropped to
about 8.5-9 volts.
My question is: Are there any of you on the list using
this type of battery and if yes, did you have any problems with it?
I've checked the charging system,the starter (Skytec) and
everything is fine.
The battery has only about 50 hrs of used and has never
been outside in the cold.(A/C is in storage for the winter)
Also what type of battery would you recommend for someone doing basic
aerobatic and inverted flying?
The battery dimension are : 7"W X 5"D X 6" H and are very important due to
installation constraints.
The battery is mounted under the radio console in front of the fwd stick.
Thanks you for your imputs
You may replied off list if you wished
Bruno Dionne
C-GDBH RV-4
rv4@videotron.ca
Message 57
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
If you have fire shield on your fuel lines, you also need fire shield on
your oil lines. Both will burn. Both need protection from the hot exhaust
gases.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fireshield
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
> Listers,
>
> There is no question in my mind that lines carrying fuel in front of the
> firewall should be insulated with fireshield.
>
> My question is about using fireshield on oil lines. I am sure that there
> is a variety of opinions and practices out there regarding the need for
> or protection by fireshield on oil lines. I would appreciate your
> considered opinions and biases.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A final details
>
>
Message 58
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip antennas |
--> RV-List message posted by: Leesafur@aol.com
In a message dated 2/17/2004 4:36:45 PM Central Standard Time,
alexpeterson@usjet.net writes:
Lee, is it a com antenna? If so, even by Bob Archer's admission, it
isn't very good. One of the -7A's in town has one, and he going to
switch to a whip on the fuse.
Alex thanks for the response. Yes, it is a com. and its sounding like I wont
be using it. I'm just looking for that sleek look got any ideas?
BTW. I think I seen your plane at aviation days. Had my 2 year old daughter
with and now all she talks about is planes!
Lee
Anoka, MN
RV-3 Wing
Message 59
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip antennas |
--> RV-List message posted by: Leesafur@aol.com
In a message dated 2/17/2004 9:55:16 PM Central Standard Time,
LeastDrag93066@aol.com writes:
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV Right wingtip COM antenna Modified from the wingtip NAV antenna
Hi Jim
Can you tell me how you had to modify it and how well it works?
Lee
Anoka, MN
RV-3 Wing
Message 60
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | photos of front baffle seals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm looking for photos of front baffle seals...that is, the baffle wall at
the top front center of the engine and its transition to the cowl inlets.
I've been trying to get a single piece of airseal to work along the whole
"arch" there, and while it "works" it's not perfect. I'd like to see how
people have done it with single or multiple strips if possible.
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 61
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Richard,
Standard Practice is to put fire-sleeve on both the fuel and oil lines. You can
do this yourself, and it's well worth it should you ever have a fire under the
cowl.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
>Listers,
>
>There is no question in my mind that lines carrying fuel in front of the
>firewall should be insulated with fireshield.
>
>My question is about using fireshield on oil lines. I am sure that there
>is a variety of opinions and practices out there regarding the need for
>or protection by fireshield on oil lines. I would appreciate your
>considered opinions and biases.
>
>Regards,
>
>Richard Dudley
>-6A final details
>
>
Message 62
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wing tip antennas |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
I had one of Bob Archer's NAV antenna's in the right wingtip of my RV-3. I
removed the NAV/COM radio. I installed a COM radio and a GPS. So much for why
I didn't need the NAV capability.
The NAV antenna (and the COM antenna) has a basic "S" shape. The base of the
"S" mounts to the lower surface of metal wing skin in the wingtip. The top
end of the "S" is about 12" long for a NAV antenna.
The top of the "S" on a COM antenna is about 10" long.
Got snips? :-)
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 02/18/2004 8:41:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Leesafur@aol.com writes:
In a message dated 2/17/2004 9:55:16 PM Central Standard Time,
LeastDrag93066@aol.com writes:
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV Right wingtip COM antenna Modified from the wingtip NAV antenna
Hi Jim
Can you tell me how you had to modify it and how well it works?
Lee
Anoka, MN
RV-3 Wing
Message 63
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making the right kit choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
On Wed, 18 Feb 2004, Dj Merrill wrote:
> Or should I start with something a little
> simpler, like a Zodiac XL?
I asked a very similar question when I first joined this list back in 95. I
thought of maybe building a CH601 first, since it was less money and (at the
time) reputed to be easier to build. I was advised not to waste my time, but
rather to start directly with the plane I wanted. (An RV-6, by the way.) I'm
VERY glad I took that advice.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|