Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:00 AM - Re: dimpled backwards (greg)
2. 05:57 AM - Engine for Sale: Advise sought (RV8ter@aol.com)
3. 08:06 AM - Re: Engine for Sale: Advise sought (Charlie Kuss)
4. 09:03 AM - Re: dimpled backwards (Bill Dube)
5. 09:11 AM - Re: Fuel Flow Systems (Chuck Weyant)
6. 11:17 AM - Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery....fixed (Ross Mickey)
7. 11:32 AM - Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing (Ross Mickey)
8. 11:34 AM - SD-8 Regulator Cooling (Ross Mickey)
9. 11:40 AM - turn and bank power consumption (thomas a. sargent)
10. 12:23 PM - Re: turn and bank power consumption (Charlie Kuss)
11. 12:23 PM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing (Bill Dube)
12. 12:33 PM - leaky AN fittings (Paul Eastham)
13. 12:44 PM - Re: SD-8 Regulator Cooling (Bill Dube)
14. 01:07 PM - Re: leaky AN fittings (linn walters)
15. 01:24 PM - Flap motor overload? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
16. 03:04 PM - Re: Flap motor overload? (linn walters)
17. 03:23 PM - Re: Flap motor overload? (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG))
18. 03:26 PM - Re: Flap motor overload? (Stein Bruch)
19. 03:56 PM - Re: Flap motor overload? (Stein Bruch)
20. 04:03 PM - Re: Flap motor overload? (Ed Holyoke)
21. 04:27 PM - Re: Fuel Flow Systems (Gary Zilik)
22. 04:53 PM - Re: leaky AN fittings (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
23. 05:46 PM - Re: SNF Hotel Question (Allen Fulmer)
24. 07:02 PM - Re: dimpled backwards (Randy Richter)
25. 08:20 PM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing (Ross Mickey)
26. 09:36 PM - Re: dimpled backwards (JOHN STARN)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: dimpled backwards |
--> RV-List message posted by: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>
> greg wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
> >
> > I would go ahead and just order new ones but I live in Australia and
after
> > waiting for a couple of weeks I'd probably find the new spars damaged by
the
> > freight company.
>
> You know, considering you're south of the equator, maybe those holes are
> dimpled correctly after all, and all of the *other* holes are backwards.
> 8-)
>
> -Rob
>
> do not archive
>
In my first post I didn't say I was from down under thinking I'd end up
being the straight man for a comedy act, but I suppose I did provide the
material. :-)
========================================================================
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Engine for Sale: Advise sought |
vansairforce@yahoogroups.com, racaldwell@hotmail.com
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
do not archive
For you Sunday viewing pleasure.
Naturally, after I ordered my finshing kit for something else completely, a
local offer came along out of the blue. The finishing kit for my 8 should be
shipping any day now...
Looking for advice on an almost "too good to be true" knowing full the moral
of that story.
Anyway, not having been through this before in any way shape or form and I'm
not familiar with the ramifications of "take it apart and have the case
repaired or replaced", I'm looking for engine folks who know how much potential
money and time this would take. I would pay a pro to do this, obviously, so you
can factor that in.
How would you repair a case crack anyway? I have a lycoming book at the
house which says to avoid the temptation for anyone in the field to offer that
as
a solution to any engine problem. I consider that a throw away but am really
worried about why it would crack in the first place. Something doesn't add up
to me.
My current finish kit I ordered last year is for a O-360-A1A
Here's some details:
OK this engine is an 200 HP, Dynafocal mount, and would be type 1mount. The
engine has always been here and the maintenance records are here with our IA
which would discuss the situation of the engine. If I were to buy the
engine I would take it apart and have the case repaired or replaced. I think a
good price would be somewhere between 10,000-12,000. A new engine will cost
about 32,000 at Van's.
Lucky: This engine I am selling for a friend of mine is in his Mooney 201.
The first part of march a new engine will be installed. The reason he is
replacing the engine is that while doing an Annual on the airplane they found a
small crack on the case just forward of #2 cylinder. I looked at it and to be
honest I could see the crack, well he wanted to change the engine to one that
has two magnetos. The engine has always been here and well taken care of. I
would buy it myself if I had an airplane to put into, I might still buy it.
Complete log book.
The Data is: I0-360-A1B6D - Total time 2691:00 Time since overhaul
660:00 Mattituck with Lycoming new cylinders
Parts included:
Engine Driven Fuel pump - was replace recently.
Engine Fuel Servo - Bendix - forward facing sump
Starter
Fuel Flow Divider and lines to cylinders, fuel nozzles
Magneto - Ignition Harness
Prop Governor stainless steel line to nose case
Compression Check
#1 79/80 #2 79/80 #3 75/80 #4 75/80
Engine has always had oil analysis and full instrumentation on all cylinders.
I feel this is good engine and would make a perfect engine for a RV-7 or 8.
An engine like this new is very expensive, make me an offer I cannot refuse.
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <sighsrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Engine
OK this engine is an 200 HP, Dynafocal mount, and would be type 1mount. The engine
has always been here at 33N and the maintenance records are here with our
IA which would discuss the situation of the engine. If I were to buy the
engine I would take it apart and have the case repaired or replaced.=20 I think
a good price would be somewhere between 10,000-12,000. A new engine will cost
about 32,000 at Van's.
Turtle
----- Original Message -----
From: RV8ter@aol.com
To: sighsrv@earthlink.net
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 8:13 AM
Subject: Re: Engine
Hi again,
I just went to an engine for sale place and grabbed these two things as the about
the closest I could find to your friend's engine:
HIO 360 B1A 180 H.P. CONICAL, INJECTED, FIXED 1054 SMOH $10,950
IO360B1E 180 H.P. INJECTED, C/S, 1219 SMOH $12,950
Lucky
In a message dated 2/21/2004 10:28:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, sighsrv@earthlink.net
writes:
Lucky:
Lucky: This engine I am selling for a friend of mine here in Dover is=20in
his Mooney 201. The first part of march a new engine will be installed.=20
The reason he is replacing the engine is that while doing an Annual on the=20airplane
they found a small crack on the case just forward of #2 cylinder. =20I
looked at it and to be honest I could see the crack, well he wanted to change
the engine to one that has two magnetos. The engine has always been here at
33N and well taken care of. I would buy it myself if I had an airplane to put
into, I might still buy it. Complete log book.
The Data is: I0-360-A1B6D - Total time 2691:00 Time since overhaul=20660:00
Mattituck with Lycoming new cylinders
Parts included:
Engine Driven Fuel pump - was replace recently.
Engine Fuel Servo - Bendix - forward facing sump
Starter
Fuel Flow Divider and lines to cylinders, fuel nozzles
Magneto - Ignition Harness
Prop Governor stainless steel line to nose case
Compression Check
#1 79/80 #2 79/80 #3 75/80 #4 75/80
Engine has always had oil analysis and full instrumentation on all cylinders.
I feel this is good engine and would make a perfect engine for a RV-7 or 8.
An engine like this new is very expensive, make me an offer I cannot refuse.
Turtle - N602RV the slow one
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2737.800" nameGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
OK this engine is an 200 HP, Dynafocal mount, and would be type
1mount. The engine has always been here at 33N and the maintenance
records are here with our IA which would discuss the situation of
the engine. If I were to buy the engine I would take it apart and have the
case repaired or replaced. I thinka good price would be somewhere
between 10,000-12,000.A new engine will cost about 32,000=20at
Van's.
Turtle
----- Original Message -----
From:
<A titleRV8ter@aol.com ">RV8ter@aol.com
To: <A titlesighsrv@earthlink.net ">sighsrv@earthlink.net
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 8:13
AM
Subject: Re: Engine
Hi again,
I just went toan engine for sale place and grabbed these
twothings as the about the closest I could find to your friend's
engine:
HIO 360 B1A 180 H.P. CONICAL, INJECTED,
FIXED 1054 SMOH $10,950
IO360B1E 180 H.P. INJECTED, C/S, 1219 SMOH
$12,950
Lucky
In a message dated 2/21/2004 10:28:14 PM Eastern Standard
Time, sighsrv@earthlink.net writes:
Lucky:
Lucky: This engine I am selling for
a friend of mine here in Dover is in his Mooney 201. The first part of
march a new engine will be installed. The reason he is replacing the
engine is that while doing an Annual on the airplane they found a small
crack on the case just forward of #2 cylinder. I looked at it and=20to
be honest I could see the crack, well he wanted to change the engine to=20one
that has two magnetos. The engine has always been here at 33N and=20well
taken care of. I would buy it myself if I had an airplane to put into,
I might still buy it. Complete log book.
The Data is: I0-360-A1B6D -
Total time 2691:00 Time since overhaul 660:00
Mattituck with Lycoming new cylinders
Parts
included:
Engine Driven Fuel pump -was replace
recently.
Engine Fuel Servo - Bendix - forward
facing sump
Starter
Fuel Flow Divider and lines to cylinders, fuel
nozzles
Magneto - Ignition Harness
Prop Governor stainless steel line to nose
case
Compression
Check
#1 79/80 #2 79/80 #3
75/80 #4 75/80
Engine has always had oil analysis and=20full
instrumentation on all cylinders. I feel this is good engine and would
make a perfect engine for a RV-7 or 8. An engine like this new
is very expensive, make me an offer I cannot refuse.
Turtle - N602RV the slow
one
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine for Sale: Advise sought |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Lucky,
The issue is this:
Can the crack be repaired? If it can, send it to Divco in Tulsa
http://www.divcoinc.com/
They charge a flat fee of $685 to completely overhaul a set of crankcases. This
includes all welding, line honing, cleaning etc. They do great work and have
an excellent reputation.
HOWEVER, if the cases can't be legally repaired, you will need a new set of cases.
These are over $3000 new. You can buy used ones for less. The problem with
used cases is that according to Phil at Mattituck is this: The chances of getting
a crack go up greatly once the engine's total time exceeds 6000 hours. Most
of the used cases for sale have 4000+ hours. This means that you may not be
able to re-use a set of high time cases once you reach TBO on the fresh overhaul.
Bottom line is that new cases are the best (long run) investment.
Like Clint Eastwood said: "Do you feel lucky, punk? Well, do ya?" :-)
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
>do not archive
>
>For you Sunday viewing pleasure.
>
>Naturally, after I ordered my finshing kit for something else completely, a
>local offer came along out of the blue. The finishing kit for my 8 should be
>shipping any day now...
>
>Looking for advice on an almost "too good to be true" knowing full the moral
>of that story.
>
>Anyway, not having been through this before in any way shape or form and I'm
>not familiar with the ramifications of "take it apart and have the case
>repaired or replaced", I'm looking for engine folks who know how much potential
>money and time this would take. I would pay a pro to do this, obviously, so you
>can factor that in.
>
>How would you repair a case crack anyway? I have a lycoming book at the
>house which says to avoid the temptation for anyone in the field to offer that
as
>a solution to any engine problem. I consider that a throw away but am really
>worried about why it would crack in the first place. Something doesn't add up
>to me.
>
>My current finish kit I ordered last year is for a O-360-A1A
>
>
>Here's some details:
>OK this engine is an 200 HP, Dynafocal mount, and would be type 1mount. The
>engine has always been here and the maintenance records are here with our IA
>which would discuss the situation of the engine. If I were to buy the
>engine I would take it apart and have the case repaired or replaced. I think
a
>good price would be somewhere between 10,000-12,000. A new engine will cost
>about 32,000 at Van's.
>
>Lucky: This engine I am selling for a friend of mine is in his Mooney 201.
>The first part of march a new engine will be installed. The reason he is
>replacing the engine is that while doing an Annual on the airplane they found
a
>small crack on the case just forward of #2 cylinder. I looked at it and to be
>honest I could see the crack, well he wanted to change the engine to one that
>has two magnetos. The engine has always been here and well taken care of. I
>would buy it myself if I had an airplane to put into, I might still buy it.
>Complete log book.
>The Data is: I0-360-A1B6D - Total time 2691:00 Time since overhaul
>660:00 Mattituck with Lycoming new cylinders
>Parts included:
>Engine Driven Fuel pump - was replace recently.
>Engine Fuel Servo - Bendix - forward facing sump
>Starter
>Fuel Flow Divider and lines to cylinders, fuel nozzles
>Magneto - Ignition Harness
>Prop Governor stainless steel line to nose case
>Compression Check
>#1 79/80 #2 79/80 #3 75/80 #4 75/80
>
>Engine has always had oil analysis and full instrumentation on all cylinders.
> I feel this is good engine and would make a perfect engine for a RV-7 or 8.
> An engine like this new is very expensive, make me an offer I cannot refuse.
>
>From: "Harvey Sigmon" <sighsrv@earthlink.net>
>To: <RV8ter@aol.com>
>Subject: Re: Engine
>Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 08:31:44 -0500
>
>
>OK this engine is an 200 HP, Dynafocal mount, and would be type 1mount. The
engine has always been here at 33N and the maintenance records are here with our
IA which would discuss the situation of the engine. If I were to buy the
engine I would take it apart and have the case repaired or replaced.=20 I think
a good price would be somewhere between 10,000-12,000. A new engine will
cost about 32,000 at Van's.
>Turtle
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: RV8ter@aol.com
> To: sighsrv@earthlink.net
> Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 8:13 AM
> Subject: Re: Engine
>
>
> Hi again,
> I just went to an engine for sale place and grabbed these two things as the
about the closest I could find to your friend's engine:
> HIO 360 B1A 180 H.P. CONICAL, INJECTED, FIXED 1054 SMOH $10,950
>
> IO360B1E 180 H.P. INJECTED, C/S, 1219 SMOH $12,950
>
>
> Lucky
>
> In a message dated 2/21/2004 10:28:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, sighsrv@earthlink.net
writes:
>
> Lucky:
> Lucky: This engine I am selling for a friend of mine here in Dover is=20in
his Mooney 201. The first part of march a new engine will be installed.=20
The reason he is replacing the engine is that while doing an Annual on the=20airplane
they found a small crack on the case just forward of #2 cylinder. =20I
looked at it and to be honest I could see the crack, well he wanted to change
the engine to one that has two magnetos. The engine has always been here at
33N and well taken care of. I would buy it myself if I had an airplane to put
into, I might still buy it. Complete log book.
> The Data is: I0-360-A1B6D - Total time 2691:00 Time since overhaul=20660:00
Mattituck with Lycoming new cylinders
> Parts included:
> Engine Driven Fuel pump - was replace recently.
> Engine Fuel Servo - Bendix - forward facing sump
> Starter
> Fuel Flow Divider and lines to cylinders, fuel nozzles
> Magneto - Ignition Harness
> Prop Governor stainless steel line to nose case
> Compression Check
> #1 79/80 #2 79/80 #3 75/80 #4 75/80
>
> Engine has always had oil analysis and full instrumentation on all cylinders.
I feel this is good engine and would make a perfect engine for a RV-7 or
8. An engine like this new is very expensive, make me an offer I cannot refuse.
> Turtle - N602RV the slow one
>
>
><META content"MSHTML 6.00.2737.800" nameGENERATOR>
><STYLE></STYLE>
>
>
>OK this engine is an 200 HP, Dynafocal mount, and would be type
>1mount. The engine has always been here at 33N and the maintenance
>records are here with our IA which would discuss the situation of
>the engine. If I were to buy the engine I would take it apart and have the
>case repaired or replaced. I thinka good price would be somewhere
>between 10,000-12,000.A new engine will cost about 32,000=20at
>Van's.
>Turtle
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> <A titleRV8ter@aol.com ">RV8ter@aol.com
> To: <A titlesighsrv@earthlink.net ">sighsrv@earthlink.net
> Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 8:13
> AM
> Subject: Re: Engine
>
>
> Hi again,
> I just went toan engine for sale place and grabbed these
> twothings as the about the closest I could find to your friend's
> engine:
>
>
>HIO 360 B1A 180 H.P. CONICAL, INJECTED,
> FIXED 1054 SMOH $10,950
>
>
>IO360B1E 180 H.P. INJECTED, C/S, 1219 SMOH
> $12,950
>
>
>Lucky
>
>
>In a message dated 2/21/2004 10:28:14 PM Eastern Standard
> Time, sighsrv@earthlink.net writes:
>
>
> Lucky:
> Lucky: This engine I am selling for
> a friend of mine here in Dover is in his Mooney 201. The first part of
> march a new engine will be installed. The reason he is replacing the
> engine is that while doing an Annual on the airplane they found a small
> crack on the case just forward of #2 cylinder. I looked at it and=20to
> be honest I could see the crack, well he wanted to change the engine to=20one
> that has two magnetos. The engine has always been here at 33N and=20well
> taken care of. I would buy it myself if I had an airplane to put into,
> I might still buy it. Complete log book.
> The Data is: I0-360-A1B6D -
> Total time 2691:00 Time since overhaul 660:00
> Mattituck with Lycoming new cylinders
> Parts
> included:
> Engine Driven Fuel pump -was replace
> recently.
> Engine Fuel Servo - Bendix - forward
> facing sump
> Starter
> Fuel Flow Divider and lines to cylinders, fuel
> nozzles
> Magneto - Ignition Harness
> Prop Governor stainless steel line to nose
> case
> Compression
> Check
> #1 79/80 #2 79/80 #3
> 75/80 #4 75/80
>
> Engine has always had oil analysis and=20full
> instrumentation on all cylinders. I feel this is good engine and would
> make a perfect engine for a RV-7 or 8. An engine like this new
> is very expensive, make me an offer I cannot refuse.
> Turtle - N602RV the slow
> one
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: dimpled backwards |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
> > You know, considering you're south of the equator, maybe those holes are
> > dimpled correctly after all, and all of the *other* holes are backwards.
> > 8-)
> >
> > -Rob
> >
> > do not archive
> >
>
>In my first post I didn't say I was from down under thinking I'd end up
>being the straight man for a comedy act, but I suppose I did provide the
>material. :-)
Don't pay any mind to these bludger larrikins. :
)
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
Thought the transducer was supposed to be in an area where it won't or the
attached hoses be subject to high temps or excessive vibrations. Engine
compartment seems the wrong area...
Chuck
>
> I stuck my transducer between the mechanical pump and the carb. Works
great.
>
> >RV9A. Want to install a fuel flow system. Needs to be around $300 or so.
Which one? And where do I install the transducer? Not much room as far as I
can see. Seems the ones I've checked out want the transducer on the vaccum
side of the fuel pump. With the fuel pump on the inside of the firewall in
the nine, and the fuel line running down the center of the cockpit floor to
the fuel selecter valve, I don't see anywhere to install a transducer. How
have others done it? (No luck with the archives search.)
> >Chuck
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Dynon - Rethink Internal Battery....fixed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
I just got my unit back with the software fix for the "Dreaded Blue Screen"
and the missing characters. I tried to get it to hang up by powering up and
down and never could. I was only able to fly it for a few minutes (see
other post) but it worked fine. It seems to boot up faster. I think Dynon
will be putting out the new software soon. Nick was very prompt in
addressing these issues. They had my unit on Monday, designed the software
fix on Tues and Weds and sent the unit back on Thursday so I could have it
Friday.
Since I am always skeptical of software fixes ( blame Bill Gates) I also
installed a switch on the battery. (Sorry Nick) This was very easy to do.
If I have to replace the battery, I will have to do it again but it was
easier to put the switch on the battery than the unit. My switch is always
on and will only be used in an emergency, i.e. if the software hiccups. The
folks at Dynon think this is unnecessary as they believe they have addressed
the problem. I guess I fit Doug's adage, "If you want to sell it to a
pilot, put a switch on it, if it has a light and a bell, they can't resist!"
Ross
N9PT
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
After reinstalling my Dynon EFIS, I took N9PT for a test ride. As I became
airborne, my AOA started screaming at me to "PUSH, PUSH...ANGLE, ANGLE" As
I was in a very shallow climb and pulling 29" x 2650 rpm, I knew this was an
erroneous alarm. After quieting my persistent "co-pilot", I radioed in to
stay in the pattern and land. My airspeed had risen as I had climbed but
didn't change as I cut power and ran through my standard approach. I landed
hot and made my way back to the hanger.
At first, I thought I had made a REALLY dumb mistake and hooked the pitot
static lines up backward. This was not the case, as my instruments worked
fine from the fuselage in. I then tried to blow through the tubing from the
fuse to the pitot tube....nothing. I could suck, put my tongue on the tube
and it would hold suction, not a good thing.
I then went to the Piper blade, heated pitot tube and disconnected the
lines. Both of the lines were plugged at the pitot tube by melted tubing.
I used the stiffer poly tubing, sorry I don't have the exact name but it is
the stiffer of the two you can buy from AS. Since the system worked fine
the last time I flew, this must have occurred on the ground. The only thing
I did after reinstalling the Dynon and installing a cooler to my SD-8
regulator was to test all my electronics. I had the pitot heat on for about
15 sec.
I have never heard of this happening and will be looking for a fix that will
probably involve adding a short section of non-meltable tubing at the pitot
tube for about a foot.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | SD-8 Regulator Cooling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
I spoke with Tim at B&C for a good period on Friday discussing the potential
of the SD-8 regulator overheating when in continuous use over 3 amps. I
must say, after being on the RV-List for 9 years and following Bob's "All
Electric on a Budget" when building my RV-6A, I was disheartened during the
conversation. He said that he was unaware that Bob was recommending this
alternator be used as a backup with essential buss loads of 8 amps until
fairly recently. After going through all the stages of grieving, I asked
what the fix was. Since the PM, SD-8 regulator needs to shed the excess
loads via heat, the only fix is to cool it. I went to the local custom
computer place and bought a heat sink and cooling fan made by Intel to cool
CPU's. I attached this to the top of the regulator via a aluminum strap and
JB Weld. It is switched to come on when I turn on the SD-8. I have no way
of telling if it going to be a fix or just prolong the fatal event. My hope
is that I will only need it for 30 min or so while I get down after a main
alternator failure.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | turn and bank power consumption |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
I've been having difficulty finding a typical power consumption figure
for an electric turn and bank indicator. If any one has the specs for
an R.C. Allen or a Sigmatek, that would be fine.
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: turn and bank power consumption |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Tom,
Mine draws about 0.8 amps when the unit is "spinning up". Once up to speed, it
draws 0.3 to 0.4 amps. I have an R.C. Allen unit.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
>I've been having difficulty finding a typical power consumption figure
>for an electric turn and bank indicator. If any one has the specs for
>an R.C. Allen or a Sigmatek, that would be fine.
>
>Thanks,
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
>I then went to the Piper blade, heated pitot tube and disconnected the
>lines. Both of the lines were plugged at the pitot tube by melted tubing.
>
>I have never heard of this happening and will be looking for a fix that will
>probably involve adding a short section of non-meltable tubing at the pitot
>tube for about a foot.
I would suggest that you use thin wall stainless tubing for the
extensions. (Stainless has very low thermal conductivity.) Run the
stainless tubing through a clamp that is anchored to a rib or spar just
before you transition to plastic. The clamp will tend to "wick" off any
heat before it travels to the plastic tube.
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | leaky AN fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
Hi all,
I am working on my first few flared tubing connections (fuel pick-up
line) and am having some trouble. After trying a few on scrap, I am
producing what look to be nice and clean cuts and flares. I am
squaring the cuts on my scotchbrite wheel, deburring, then flaring
with a well-oiled 37-degree Parker roto-flare tool.
Sadly though, when I connect the pick-up to the bulkhead union and
tighten on the nut/collar as tight as I can by hand, I get a small
leak detectable by plugging one end and blowing into the other. This
is confirmed with soapy water; I get a bubble emerging between the
tubing and the collar.
I have found no documentation of what specs a flare should meet...
what am I looking for? Like I said it looks square and clean.
The size of the flare itself is a little confusing to me -- I've currently
got the flare OD matched to the OD of the male end.
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv -- 9A trying to wrap up first wing!
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: SD-8 Regulator Cooling |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> Since the PM, SD-8 regulator needs to shed the excess
>loads via heat, the only fix is to cool it. I went to the local custom
>computer place and bought a heat sink and cooling fan made by Intel to cool
>CPU's. I attached this to the top of the regulator via a aluminum strap and
>JB Weld. It is switched to come on when I turn on the SD-8.
Since most folks mount the regulator to the firewall, a possible
solution would be to flip it over and use the aluminum firewall as the heat
sink. As long as you are well away from a major heat source, this might do
the trick. Be sure to use thermal grease between the regulator top surface
and the firewall.
If you have a stainless steel firewall this trick won't work. You
may be able to move the regulator to the other side of the firewall (or
somewhere else) and attach it to something large and aluminum.
It would not be too hard to test this out once you had it
installed. You would attach some sort of temperature sensor to the
regulator, go for a flight, load up the SD-8 to full load, then watch the
temperature. If the regulator stayed below the maximum allowed (120 F ???)
you are all set.
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: leaky AN fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Paul Eastham wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
>
>Hi all,
> I am working on my first few flared tubing connections (fuel pick-up
>line) and am having some trouble. After trying a few on scrap, I am
>producing what look to be nice and clean cuts and flares. I am
>squaring the cuts on my scotchbrite wheel, deburring, then flaring
>with a well-oiled 37-degree Parker roto-flare tool.
>
> Sadly though, when I connect the pick-up to the bulkhead union and
>tighten on the nut/collar as tight as I can by hand, I get a small
>leak detectable by plugging one end and blowing into the other. This
>is confirmed with soapy water; I get a bubble emerging between the
>tubing and the collar.
>
Hand tight isn't tight enough. 'Snug' it with a wrench and the leak
will probably disappear.
> I have found no documentation of what specs a flare should meet...
>what am I looking for? Like I said it looks square and clean.
>
Look for cracks at the base of the flare or cracks near the end of the
flare. If you use a fine file to remove any saw marks from the end of
the tubing, you'll minimize cracking. Also, the slower you do the flare
the less cracking.
>The size of the flare itself is a little confusing to me -- I've currently
>got the flare OD matched to the OD of the male end.
>
As long as the tubing flare is longer than the flare in the sleeve and
smaller than the nut, you'll get a good seal.
Linn
>
>
>Paul
>http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv -- 9A trying to wrap up first wing!
>
>
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flap motor overload? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy list!
I've blown the fuse on my flaps when they reach the full up position (Van's
unit in my -6A) twice now in 2 days (5 amp first, tried 7.5 & still blew- yes
wire is fat enough!) and I can't find anything wrong, linkage binding, wires
worn etc. Only thing that is unusual is that the motor seems to be trying
somewhat harder at the fully extended position (flaps up) than it does fully
retracted where it seems to freewheel more easily. Should it be freewheeling easily
at both ends, and shouldn't 5 amps be plenty of fuse for this? I don't
recall where I got the load value, but it's wired with 18ga.
Thanks!
Mark Phillips -6A N51PW - 37.4 hours in 3 weeks! What an awesome machine!
8-)
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor overload? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>Howdy list!
>
>I've blown the fuse on my flaps when they reach the full up position (Van's
>unit in my -6A) twice now in 2 days (5 amp first, tried 7.5 & still blew- yes
>wire is fat enough!) and I can't find anything wrong, linkage binding, wires
>worn etc. Only thing that is unusual is that the motor seems to be trying
>somewhat harder at the fully extended position (flaps up) than it does fully
>retracted where it seems to freewheel more easily. Should it be freewheeling
easily
>at both ends, and shouldn't 5 amps be plenty of fuse for this? I don't
>recall where I got the load value, but it's wired with 18ga.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Mark Phillips -6A N51PW - 37.4 hours in 3 weeks! What an awesome machine!
>8-)
>
Hmmm. Sounds like failure of the limit switch. Remember that fuses
aren't there to protect the device on the other end ....... they protect
the wire!!!
Linn
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flap motor overload? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
Hi Mark,
Electric motors draw *much* more current when they first start, and when
they are stalled. Check that your flap motor does turn off when the
flaps are all the way up... I assume you have some kind of limit switch
that detects full up and stops the motor?
Frank
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
I've blown the fuse on my flaps when they reach the full up position
(Van's
unit in my -6A) twice now in 2 days (5 amp first, tried 7.5 & still
blew- yes
wire is fat enough!) and I can't find anything wrong, linkage binding,
wires
worn etc.
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor overload? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
The stock Van's installations don't have a limit switch (although a few people)
have done it.
My guess is you probably just need to grease it. Those of us fortunate (NOT) to
have taken our flap motor apart multiple times have seen what happens to the
grease in these -6/6A installations.
If it were me I'd first grease up the jackscrew with some good lithium grease.
If it were the motor being low on grease, you'd see the problem throughout the
whole extension/retraction, not just the end. With your sypmtoms, my only guess
would be the jackscrew being dry at one end.
Just my guess! FYI, I also have a 7.5A breaker, but it has never blown. I've
had the opposite problem of my flap motor just quitting several times due to grease
in the commutator/brushes from the motor....
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, (both with 'lectric flaps)
Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
>Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>>
>>Howdy list!
>>
>>I've blown the fuse on my flaps when they reach the full up position (Van's
>>unit in my -6A) twice now in 2 days (5 amp first, tried 7.5 & still blew- yes
>>wire is fat enough!) and I can't find anything wrong, linkage binding, wires
>>worn etc. Only thing that is unusual is that the motor seems to be trying
>>somewhat harder at the fully extended position (flaps up) than it does fully
>>retracted where it seems to freewheel more easily. Should it be freewheeling
easily
>>at both ends, and shouldn't 5 amps be plenty of fuse for this? I don't
>>recall where I got the load value, but it's wired with 18ga.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Mark Phillips -6A N51PW - 37.4 hours in 3 weeks! What an awesome machine!
>>8-)
>>
>Hmmm. Sounds like failure of the limit switch. Remember that fuses
>aren't there to protect the device on the other end ....... they protect
>the wire!!!
>Linn
>
>
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flap motor overload? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Just an FYI to those who don't have experience with the Van's flap motors and jack
screw assemblies.
There is really NO need for a limit switch on the flaps. They don't "Bottom out"
at full extension or retraction, the motor just keeps spinning. They don't
get loaded up, stopped, or "stalled" when the retraction or extension is complete.
Most of the reasons for limit switches are to allow people to install a switch
to retract the flaps without having to hold the toggle up. Also, some people do
it for an indicator, but there is much better methods for indication than using
limit swichtes. Other than that, there is no real need for limit switches
for motor cutout or shutoff.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinar.com
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
>
>Hi Mark,
>
>Electric motors draw *much* more current when they first start, and when
>they are stalled. Check that your flap motor does turn off when the
>flaps are all the way up... I assume you have some kind of limit switch
>that detects full up and stops the motor?
>
>Frank
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>I've blown the fuse on my flaps when they reach the full up position
>(Van's
>unit in my -6A) twice now in 2 days (5 amp first, tried 7.5 & still
>blew- yes
>wire is fat enough!) and I can't find anything wrong, linkage binding,
>wires
>worn etc.
>Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
>at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
>(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
>and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
>Learning.
>
>Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
>future
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flap motor overload? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Mark,
It's been a while since I set mine up, but I think that the actuator is
supposed to spin free at both ends of it's travel - sort of like a
clutch disengaging. That's why Van's didn't set it up with a limit
switch - it's self limiting. If the geometry is such that it's still
trying to move the flaps when they are fully retracted, the motor will
load up and probably blow the fuse. Try lengthening the flap actuating
rods so that the flaps are partially extended. Then run the motor all
the way up 'til it stops moving and spins free. Then readjust the flap
actuating rods to where the flaps are fully retracted. Hope that works
for you.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap motor overload?
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>Howdy list!
>
>I've blown the fuse on my flaps when they reach the full up position
(Van's
>unit in my -6A) twice now in 2 days (5 amp first, tried 7.5 & still
blew- yes
>wire is fat enough!) and I can't find anything wrong, linkage binding,
wires
>worn etc. Only thing that is unusual is that the motor seems to be
trying
>somewhat harder at the fully extended position (flaps up) than it does
fully
>retracted where it seems to freewheel more easily. Should it be
freewheeling easily
>at both ends, and shouldn't 5 amps be plenty of fuse for this? I don't
>recall where I got the load value, but it's wired with 18ga.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Mark Phillips -6A N51PW - 37.4 hours in 3 weeks! What an awesome
machine!
>8-)
>
Hmmm. Sounds like failure of the limit switch. Remember that fuses
aren't there to protect the device on the other end ....... they protect
the wire!!!
Linn
==
==
==
==
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
All I know is that this is where they are installed in certified ships
(says so in the STC instructions). Firesleeve keeps the xducer cool
GZ
Chuck Weyant wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
>
>Thought the transducer was supposed to be in an area where it won't or the
>attached hoses be subject to high temps or excessive vibrations. Engine
>compartment seems the wrong area...
>Chuck
>
>
>>I stuck my transducer between the mechanical pump and the carb. Works
>>
>>
>great.
>
>
>>>RV9A. Want to install a fuel flow system. Needs to be around $300 or so.
>>>
>>>
>Which one? And where do I install the transducer? Not much room as far as I
>can see. Seems the ones I've checked out want the transducer on the vaccum
>side of the fuel pump. With the fuel pump on the inside of the firewall in
>the nine, and the fuel line running down the center of the cockpit floor to
>the fuel selecter valve, I don't see anywhere to install a transducer. How
>have others done it? (No luck with the archives search.)
>
>
>>>Chuck
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: leaky AN fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Paul,
I've found that when I tighten the flaring tool very much at all, it leaves
an impression of the parting lines of the die on the backside of the flare.
This could cause a leak because the flared surface would distort if you don't
tighten it enough to crush this impression. Just don't tighten the flaring tool
very tight at all. Then tighten the joint to spec before giving it a leak
check.
Dan RV-7A (working on gear leg fairings)
In a message dated 2/22/04 3:34:35 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
eastham@netapp.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
>
> Hi all,
> I am working on my first few flared tubing connections (fuel pick-up
> line) and am having some trouble. After trying a few on scrap, I am
> producing what look to be nice and clean cuts and flares. I am
> squaring the cuts on my scotchbrite wheel, deburring, then flaring
> with a well-oiled 37-degree Parker roto-flare tool.
>
> Sadly though, when I connect the pick-up to the bulkhead union and
> tighten on the nut/collar as tight as I can by hand, I get a small
> leak detectable by plugging one end and blowing into the other. This
> is confirmed with soapy water; I get a bubble emerging between the
> tubing and the collar.
>
> I have found no documentation of what specs a flare should meet...
> what am I looking for? Like I said it looks square and clean.
> The size of the flare itself is a little confusing to me -- I've currently
> got the flare OD matched to the OD of the male end.
>
> Paul
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv -- 9A trying to wrap up first wing!
>
>
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | SNF Hotel Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
Stayed in Tampa area for years and find the drive easy and the savings
appreciated.
Allen Fulmer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RV-List: SNF Hotel Question
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
For those of you that have been to Sun 'n Fun, and
know the area, I've got two hotel choices - one
in Lakeland for about 150 USD/night, and one in
Tampa for about 70 USD/night. Is it worth the
extra money to stay in Lakeland, or is driving
to Tampa daily not too big of a deal? I'll
be there for about 7 days.
Thanks for any advice!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: dimpled backwards |
--> RV-List message posted by: Randy Richter <richterrbb@earthlink.net>
For us illiterate Yanks, see the translation here:
http://www.koalanet.com.au/australian-slang.html
:-D
Bill Dube wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
>
>
>
>>>You know, considering you're south of the equator, maybe those holes are
>>>dimpled correctly after all, and all of the *other* holes are backwards.
>>> 8-)
>>>
>>>-Rob
>>>
>>>do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>In my first post I didn't say I was from down under thinking I'd end up
>>being the straight man for a comedy act, but I suppose I did provide the
>>material. :-)
>>
>>
>
> Don't pay any mind to these bludger larrikins. :
>)
>
>
>
>
--
Randy Richter
richterrbb@earthlink.net
-7QB Kit in hibernation
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing
> I would suggest that you use thin wall stainless tubing for the
> extensions. (Stainless has very low thermal conductivity.) Run the
> stainless tubing through a clamp that is anchored to a rib or spar just
> before you transition to plastic. The clamp will tend to "wick" off any
> heat before it travels to the plastic tube.
>
Great suggestion,,,,thanks.
Ross
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: dimpled backwards |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
L. R. B., U. C. I B. an ex-CAF Col. from SOUTHern Calif. an ya'll calls me a
"Yank". 8*) KABONG (GBA) Just for fun. Do Not Archive
Translation: Well I'll be, you see I am a former member of the Confederate
Air Force who now lives in Apple Valley, California with a pick-up truck and
a short barrelled 12 ga. who happened to be born in Ohio but considers
himself to be one of these red neck good ole boys.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Richter" <richterrbb@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: dimpled backwards
> For us illiterate Yanks, see the translation here:
> http://www.koalanet.com.au/australian-slang.html
> > Don't pay any mind to these bludger larrikins. :
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|