Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:15 AM - Re: engines, engines, engines - wonderful to have choicesfor (Bob U.)
2. 03:22 AM - This Saturday's Flyin is ON. (Dana Overall)
3. 05:11 AM - Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 06:41 AM - Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. (Dana Overall)
5. 06:45 AM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing (Bill Dube)
6. 06:49 AM - Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. (Denis Walsh)
7. 07:20 AM - new 2004 RV Story video (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
8. 07:23 AM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing (Christopher Stone)
9. 07:43 AM - Re: leaky AN fittings (Crosley, Rich)
10. 07:50 AM - FW: URL for Carson City RV Fly-In (BRUCE GRAY)
11. 10:41 AM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing (Ross Mickey)
12. 10:42 AM - racer's question: prop loss in flight (Jeff Cours)
13. 11:14 AM - Re: cutting aluminum with a hole saw (Jeff Cours)
14. 11:16 AM - Schedule for fly-in (BRUCE GRAY)
15. 11:18 AM - Rivet Direction (Frederick Oldenburg)
16. 11:26 AM - Re: racer's question: prop loss in flight (Stein Bruch)
17. 11:43 AM - Re: Rivet Direction (HCRV6@aol.com)
18. 12:08 PM - Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. (Will & Lynda Allen)
19. 12:16 PM - Re: Rivet Direction (Phil Birkelbach)
20. 12:19 PM - Re: Rivet Direction (Will & Lynda Allen)
21. 12:24 PM - Ed Hicks (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
22. 12:25 PM - Re: Rivet Direction (LarryRobertHelming)
23. 12:34 PM - Re: Rivet Direction (David E. Nelson)
24. 12:51 PM - Re: racer's question: prop loss in flight (Randy Compton)
25. 02:09 PM - Oil on the Windscreen!! (dmedema@att.net)
26. 04:07 PM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! (Knicholas2@aol.com)
27. 04:21 PM - Alt-Trak Part Deux (Doug Rozendaal)
28. 04:38 PM - Leaky AN Fittings (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
29. 05:33 PM - Re: Alt-Trak Part Deux (Stein Bruch)
30. 05:42 PM - Re: racer's question: prop loss in flight (JNice51355@aol.com)
31. 07:43 PM - Ozzies, poms and yanks (very off-list) (j1j2h3@juno.com)
32. 07:43 PM - Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing (j1j2h3@juno.com)
33. 08:36 PM - Re: Ozzies, poms and yanks (very off-list) (Dj Merrill)
34. 08:52 PM - Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System (Karie Daniel)
35. 08:59 PM - Tach drive leak (Jim Anglin)
36. 09:31 PM - Re: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System (Dan Checkoway)
37. 09:37 PM - Re: racer's question: prop loss in flight (H.Ivan Haecker)
38. 09:50 PM - Re: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System (Karie Daniel)
39. 10:34 PM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! (Jeff Point)
40. 10:54 PM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! (Jerry Springer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: engines, engines, engines - wonderful to have choicesfor |
once?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
jgburns wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "jgburns" <jgburns@comcast.net>
>
>I guess Bob might be saying don't forget your oxygen. I live in the beautiful
Rocky Mountains, so I usually take it with me. ... nothing unusual about those
altitudes out here.
>
>John Burns
>7A-QB/Rotary
>
=================================================
All 'Bob' was doing was responding to Tracy's earlier post about flight
performance at 14,500 feet. I wrote what I did to remind folks that they
cannot fly above 14,000 msl LEGALLY without supplemental oxygen.... not
even 30 minutes.
As a Kansas City 'Flatlander', I've never found the need to fly above
14,000 feet to clear the local hills or to obtain satisfactory flight
performance. YMMV. :-)
'Bob '
Do NOT archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | This Saturday's Flyin is ON. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
The Saturday Flyin is ON. Ill be at the hangar by 8AM. Ill have the
Hooters wings and the local EAA chapter has asked if they can serve burger,
chips and drinks. My cell number is listed below.
It appears the entire east coast will be sitting under a large high-pressure
area from western MO east. Furthermore it appears this high will extend to
the Great Lakes and Florida. Mother nature seems to have lent a helping
hand. Weather for Saturday is expected to be 64 degrees, 0% chance of
precip, winds out of the south at 9. No weather two days either side of
Saturday.
As I mentioned in a prior post, all activities will occur at the airport,
i39, Madison Co. Airport, Richmond, KY. As a reference, it is about 20
miles south of Lexington, KY.
Vendors of which I have either received giveaways from or have received
strong assurances from are as follows:
I would certainly encourage all to remember this gang.
Control Vision: free total AnyWhere Map software package
Trioavionics: $200 discount coupon on the purchase of an EZ Autopilot
Avery: A box of various tools and such
Kitlog Pro: Paul has donated a Kitlog software package.
Vans: Two starter kits, shirt, hat.
Grand Rapids: 10% off coupon on the purchase of an EIS engine system.
Riteangle AOA: $50 off coupon on the purchase of a new angle of attack unit
Aircraftextras.com
Brian Krauts post light system.
I would also encourage anyone having anything to sell, to bring it along.
Stick your name on it and lay it on the table. This will be the total
honesty system. Everyone chip in and make sure nothing leaves via someones
pocket, I sure would like to see all my tools, dies, Dynon, etc. be left
behind as I need them just as much as the next guy:-). I only mention this
as someone once pocketed a handheld out of a cockpit at a national
gathering. I hate to even mention it but there it is.
TeamRV is planning on performing their Oshkosh routine along with some just
fun formation flying. A formation flight from the Ohio Valley RVators has
issued a challenge on TeamRVs website about a competition. A nice little
back and forth is going on right now:-). I have received an email from a
member of The Falcon RV Squadron and am awaiting a confirmation. I have
also heard from several pilots who are offering free RV rides to potential
builders and builders.
Direction via car:
Off I-75, take exit 77 (KY route 595) and turn west. Go about 200 yards and
make a right between the BP Station and the Shell Station. Go exactly 2.0
miles and make a right onto Madison County Airport Road. The airport road
will take you directly to my hangar.
Via air:
Anyone flying in, be sure and check the NOTAMs as there is restricted
airspace on the east side of I-75 for the army depot.
For you newbies; I have turned the Vans starter kits into pre-punched
condition. If you want to work with some aluminum, please feel free to do
so. There will many experienced builders here to show you some pointers.
You will be able to deburr, dimple with squeezer and C-frame, back rivet,
buck, pneumatic squeeze, hand squeeze, roll a rudder front, and install
nutplates. There will also be composite pilots here and I will bring along
some West System and glass. My first airplane was plastic so give a shout.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39 cell 859 625-2844
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Two questions for Dana:
How much are tickets and is there a limited number of overnight camping
spots and does that cost anything extra for the full electric and waste
hookup for the RV. (I might be driving in) Oh yes almost forgot, will the
country store be open and have lots of beer or should I be safe and bring
some? Does Lexington have mosquitoes this time of year with these nice
temps and soft gentle winds?
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
do not archive
Firewall Forward
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: This Saturday's Flyin is ON.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> The Saturday Flyin is ON. Ill be at the hangar by 8AM. Ill have the
> Hooters wings and the local EAA chapter has asked if they can serve
burger,
> chips and drinks. My cell number is listed below.
>
> It appears the entire east coast will be sitting under a large
high-pressure
> area from western MO east. Furthermore it appears this high will extend
to
> the Great Lakes and Florida. Mother nature seems to have lent a helping
> hand. Weather for Saturday is expected to be 64 degrees, 0% chance of
> precip, winds out of the south at 9. No weather two days either side of
> Saturday.
>
> As I mentioned in a prior post, all activities will occur at the airport,
> i39, Madison Co. Airport, Richmond, KY. As a reference, it is about 20
> miles south of Lexington, KY.
>
> Vendors of which I have either received giveaways from or have received
> strong assurances from are as follows:
>
> I would certainly encourage all to remember this gang.
>
> Control Vision: free total AnyWhere Map software package
> Trioavionics: $200 discount coupon on the purchase of an EZ Autopilot
> Avery: A box of various tools and such
> Kitlog Pro: Paul has donated a Kitlog software package.
> Vans: Two starter kits, shirt, hat.
> Grand Rapids: 10% off coupon on the purchase of an EIS engine system.
> Riteangle AOA: $50 off coupon on the purchase of a new angle of attack
unit
> Aircraftextras.com
> Brian Krauts post light system.
>
> I would also encourage anyone having anything to sell, to bring it along.
> Stick your name on it and lay it on the table. This will be the total
> honesty system. Everyone chip in and make sure nothing leaves via
someones
> pocket, I sure would like to see all my tools, dies, Dynon, etc. be left
> behind as I need them just as much as the next guy:-). I only mention
this
> as someone once pocketed a handheld out of a cockpit at a national
> gathering. I hate to even mention it but there it is.
>
> TeamRV is planning on performing their Oshkosh routine along with some
just
> fun formation flying. A formation flight from the Ohio Valley RVators has
> issued a challenge on TeamRVs website about a competition. A nice little
> back and forth is going on right now:-). I have received an email from a
> member of The Falcon RV Squadron and am awaiting a confirmation. I have
> also heard from several pilots who are offering free RV rides to potential
> builders and builders.
>
> Direction via car:
>
> Off I-75, take exit 77 (KY route 595) and turn west. Go about 200 yards
and
> make a right between the BP Station and the Shell Station. Go exactly 2.0
> miles and make a right onto Madison County Airport Road. The airport road
> will take you directly to my hangar.
>
> Via air:
>
> Anyone flying in, be sure and check the NOTAMs as there is restricted
> airspace on the east side of I-75 for the army depot.
>
> For you newbies; I have turned the Vans starter kits into pre-punched
> condition. If you want to work with some aluminum, please feel free to do
> so. There will many experienced builders here to show you some pointers.
> You will be able to deburr, dimple with squeezer and C-frame, back rivet,
> buck, pneumatic squeeze, hand squeeze, roll a rudder front, and install
> nutplates. There will also be composite pilots here and I will bring
along
> some West System and glass. My first airplane was plastic so give a
shout.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39 cell 859 625-2844
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
> do not archive
>
> Get fast, reliable access with MSN 9 Dial-up. Click here for Special
Offer!
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>Two questions for Dana:
>
>How much are tickets
No cost, just put your name in the hat for door prizes.
and is there a limited number of overnight camping
>spots and does that cost anything extra for the full electric and waste
>hookup for the RV. (I might be driving in) Oh yes almost forgot, will the
>country store be open and have lots of beer or should I be safe and bring
>some? Does Lexington have mosquitoes this time of year with these nice
>temps and soft gentle winds?
The airport has a large parking lot or people can camp in my hangar. Since
you are my Oshkosh camping partner and I've spent the night at your house a
couple times.....................you got the couch downstairs. No sketters
this time of year. If people are driving RVs in, there are two RV
campgrounds at the next exit south (only 2 miles, exit 75). As for suds,
I'll have some but there is a large Liquor World at exit 87, right beside
Hooters.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Get fast, reliable access with MSN 9 Dial-up. Click here for Special Offer!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
> > I would suggest that you use thin wall stainless tubing for the
> > extensions. (Stainless has very low thermal conductivity.) Run the
> > stainless tubing through a clamp that is anchored to a rib or spar just
> > before you transition to plastic. The clamp will tend to "wick" off any
> > heat before it travels to the plastic tube.
> >
>
>
>Great suggestion,,,,thanks.
If you still have trouble, you might try putting a few TO-92 style
heat sinks on the extension tubing. They look like this:
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Aavid/Web%20Photos/322400B00000.jpg
The part number is: HS100-ND
The you can buy them here:
http://www.digikey.com/
>Ross
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
A perfect neighborhood!
On Feb 23, 2004, at 7:40 AM, Dana Overall wrote:
> large Liquor World at exit 87, right beside
> Hooters.
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | new 2004 RV Story video |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
The new 2004 RV story video is now in. The new edition has been redone
since the previous 2002 edition and now includes all current models
including RV-10, RV7/7A amd RV9/9A. It's 30 minutes of entertainment and
inspiration, for a hangarmate, a spouse, or yourself.
Cost is $10 in DVD or VHS formats. DVD is in stock now. VHS format will be
available in about 1 week. Or FREE with purchase of 21 Years of the
RV-ator.
(to do that, order 21 Years of the RV-ator and put "FREE RV Story" in
special instructions box in on-line order form) (and for now, if you
want VHS format, order in DVD and write "VHS copy" in special instructions
box)
Yes, there will be a discounted upgrade program when the new 24 Years of the
RVator book comes out sometime in May.
Thanks,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
Ross...
You are using the heated Piper Blade Pitot/Static? I was planning on doing the
same. Is yours from a Archer, Arrow or other SE Piper? Do you know the Piper
P/N? Other than your melted tubing problem, how does it work? Ok with the Dynon?
I am building wings and was waiting for the Dynon heated pitot. Talked wih them
(Dynon) Sat at the Washington Aviation Conference in Puyallup WA. Their heated
pitot won't be shipping for a couple of months and its a monster (large).
The Piper pitot is much less obtrusive and much less likely to snag an unsuspecting
tie down chain or rope.
Chris Stone
RV 8 wings in OR.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Mickey <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV-List: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
After reinstalling my Dynon EFIS, I took N9PT for a test ride. As I became
airborne, my AOA started screaming at me to "PUSH, PUSH...ANGLE, ANGLE" As
I was in a very shallow climb and pulling 29" x 2650 rpm, I knew this was an
erroneous alarm. After quieting my persistent "co-pilot", I radioed in to
stay in the pattern and land. My airspeed had risen as I had climbed but
didn't change as I cut power and ran through my standard approach. I landed
hot and made my way back to the hanger.
At first, I thought I had made a REALLY dumb mistake and hooked the pitot
static lines up backward. This was not the case, as my instruments worked
fine from the fuselage in. I then tried to blow through the tubing from the
fuse to the pitot tube....nothing. I could suck, put my tongue on the tube
and it would hold suction, not a good thing.
I then went to the Piper blade, heated pitot tube and disconnected the
lines. Both of the lines were plugged at the pitot tube by melted tubing.
I used the stiffer poly tubing, sorry I don't have the exact name but it is
the stiffer of the two you can buy from AS. Since the system worked fine
the last time I flew, this must have occurred on the ground. The only thing
I did after reinstalling the Dynon and installing a cooler to my SD-8
regulator was to test all my electronics. I had the pitot heat on for about
15 sec.
I have never heard of this happening and will be looking for a fix that will
probably involve adding a short section of non-meltable tubing at the pitot
tube for about a foot.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
Message 9
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"'eastham@netapp.com'" <eastham@netapp.com>
| Subject: | Re: leaky AN fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Might try AN fitting seals. Page 104 of the 2002-2003 Aircraft Spruce, they
are with the AN fittings.
Rich Crosley
RV-8, Palmdale, CA
Message 10
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| Subject: | FW: URL for Carson City RV Fly-In |
--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
Just a quick message to the community that Doug Reeves has set up a link for
the details for the fly-in at Carson City. If you ever meet this gentlemen
at a fly-in make sure you shake this mans hand and thank him for his
invaluable service he's doing for this sport. Thank you again, Bruce
>From: "Doug Reeves" <doug@vansairforce.net>
>Reply-To: <doug@vansairforce.net>
>To: <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>, <glasserw@yahoo.com>,
><rv7boy@yahoo.com>, <jhallrv4@comcast.net>, <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>,
> <mikesrv6@yahoo.com>, <rosales@bigfoot.com>, <n667sr@comcast.net>
>Subject: URL for Carson City RV Fly-In
>Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 08:04:33 -0600
>
>Morning all.
>
>I went ahead and made an area on my RV Activities Calendar just for the
>Carson City Fly-In. It's my understanding now that Ken Scott will attend
>in one of the factory planes.
>
>The URL, if you want to start spreading the word, is:
>
>http://www.vansairforce.net/upcomingevents.htm#CarsonCity
>
>I've forwarded this to Bob at Van's, as I believe he intends on adding this
>link to their site's calendar of scheduled events.
>
>
>--
>Best,
> Doug Reeves
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> URL: www.VansAirForce.net
> Contact info: http://www.vansairforce.net/contact.htm
>--
Dream of owning a home? Find out how in the First-time Home Buying Guide.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
I don't know which model or part number. I got it rebuilt from a place in
Florida. That was about 8 years ago. It works fine. I have not done
extensive flight testing to see how accurate the airspeed is. For my
purposes, it is accurate enough.
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Stone" <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing
> --> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
>
> Ross...
>
> You are using the heated Piper Blade Pitot/Static? I was planning on
doing the same. Is yours from a Archer, Arrow or other SE Piper? Do you
know the Piper P/N? Other than your melted tubing problem, how does it work?
Ok with the Dynon?
>
> I am building wings and was waiting for the Dynon heated pitot. Talked
wih them (Dynon) Sat at the Washington Aviation Conference in Puyallup WA.
Their heated pitot won't be shipping for a couple of months and its a
monster (large). The Piper pitot is much less obtrusive and much less
likely to snag an unsuspecting tie down chain or rope.
>
> Chris Stone
> RV 8 wings in OR.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ross Mickey <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
>
> After reinstalling my Dynon EFIS, I took N9PT for a test ride. As I
became
> airborne, my AOA started screaming at me to "PUSH, PUSH...ANGLE, ANGLE"
As
> I was in a very shallow climb and pulling 29" x 2650 rpm, I knew this was
an
> erroneous alarm. After quieting my persistent "co-pilot", I radioed in to
> stay in the pattern and land. My airspeed had risen as I had climbed but
> didn't change as I cut power and ran through my standard approach. I
landed
> hot and made my way back to the hanger.
>
> At first, I thought I had made a REALLY dumb mistake and hooked the pitot
> static lines up backward. This was not the case, as my instruments worked
> fine from the fuselage in. I then tried to blow through the tubing from
the
> fuse to the pitot tube....nothing. I could suck, put my tongue on the
tube
> and it would hold suction, not a good thing.
>
> I then went to the Piper blade, heated pitot tube and disconnected the
> lines. Both of the lines were plugged at the pitot tube by melted tubing.
> I used the stiffer poly tubing, sorry I don't have the exact name but it
is
> the stiffer of the two you can buy from AS. Since the system worked fine
> the last time I flew, this must have occurred on the ground. The only
thing
> I did after reinstalling the Dynon and installing a cooler to my SD-8
> regulator was to test all my electronics. I had the pitot heat on for
about
> 15 sec.
>
> I have never heard of this happening and will be looking for a fix that
will
> probably involve adding a short section of non-meltable tubing at the
pitot
> tube for about a foot.
>
> Ross Mickey
> N9PT
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | racer's question: prop loss in flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
Hi, everyone -
A fellow on the Pietenpol list just had a nasty incident where his prop
lost a blade in flight. The vibration damaged the engine mount, ripping
apart a couple of the tubes, but they managed to get it shut down before
they completely lost the engine and were able to land.
I remember reading in an old Kitplanes issue (I think) that race planes
often use aircraft cable to secure the engine as a safety measure, to
keep the CG in the right place if a blade loss pulls the engine off the
mount. Is that true? If so, how do you secure the cable to the engine?
Curious,
Jeff C.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: cutting aluminum with a hole saw |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
Thanks, everyone, for the advice on cutting the lightening holes -- I
just finished them over the weekend and they turned out very nicely. I
clamped to a 3/4" particle board backing, center-punched the holes,
drilled a #30 pilot hole, then used hole saws that were 1/8"
under-sized, used cutting fluid, exhausted both battery packs for the
cordless screwdriver, and cleaned up with a smooth cut file and 600 grit
sandpaper as necessary. Given the amount of sandpaper I went through on
that thick doubler stock, I guess I need to find a better way to finish
the inside of a lightening hole, maybe one of those Dremel-sized
Scotchbrite wheels or something.
Anyway, after the clean-up, the holes came out 1/16" smaller than spec.
A fly cutter probably would've let me pick up that extra 1/16, but I'm
OK living with optional lightening holes that are a touch smaller than
they could've been.
Keeping a close eye on the classifieds for a used drill press at the
right price,
Jeff C.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Schedule for fly-in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
Doug, This will not be formated to well, so I'll just write it as it will
play out. Fri. Apr. 30th-early arrivals. Provide transportation until 7pm.
After Capital Cab Co. is available. May 1st - 9am Breakfast call til
10:30am. Arrivals through-out the morning. Lunch call 11am till 1-2pm?
Welcome announcements. Prize/Trophy entry all afternoon. Static display
viewing through-out the day. May 2nd - 9am - Donutes & Coffee. 9:30-10am
award announcements if not done on saturday afternoon due to early
departures on Sunday morning. 10am- on will be departures.
Our airport managers are going to set up a NOTAM for the
event due to the hopeful heavy traffic. They are also working on giving all
fly-in participants a fuel discount$$ . Someone knows someone at the Pinon
Plaza Resort and is working that avenue for discounts on room rates. I
myself am working on contacting vendors to donate some cool prizes for the
event, and we are in the process of designing T-Shirts for the fly-in. I
would also let everyone know that our city is known for its history. There
are museums,capital buildings, and Historical Virginia City. Lots to do in a
very small amout of time. We are going to have a great time and hope all the
effort pays off with everyone there that can make this fly-in.
Get fast, reliable access with MSN 9 Dial-up. Click here for Special Offer!
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
Ok this may be a dumb question, but how do I determine which side the machined
head of the rivet should be on? Is there a rule of thumb? I'm getting ready to
rivet the HS-609 rear spar stiffeners to the HS-603 rear spar channels on my
RV-7A Empennage. It seems to me that the rivets should be pointing aft - i.e.
the shop heads would be on the aft side, against the reinforcement bars and the
machine heads would be flush against the thinner spar channel material.
Is this correct? Is there a rule of thumb? After surfing other builder's websites,
I've seen it done both ways. Does it matter?
Thanks,
Fred
Fred Oldenburg
N270S (Reserved) RV-7A - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: racer's question: prop loss in flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
This one is true! I've also seen engines cables on some aerobatic aircraft also.
Usually it's more than one cable, running to around the engine mount somewhere
to another point on the engine. Don't remember exactly the details, I just
remember seeing them on some racers and aerobatic planes.
There's been many a recorded instances of aircraft nearly (and actually) shedding
an engine after a prop blade failure. Reminds me....I took some aerobatic
time in a Pitts out of Centennial(APA) some years ago, and the very next flight
after I was in it the hartzell molted one of it's blades, he landed safely in
some parking lot with the engine hanging on by 1 bolt.....The prop blade landed
in a park in suburban Denver somewhere.
Happened to several of the older RV's also, back when people thought cutting their
own metal props down was ok.
Incidentally and almost entirely unrelated to this post, if you saw what holds
a 747 engine on (3 bolts that aren't all that huge), you'd be amazed!
Cheers,
Stein.
Do Not Archive
http://www.steinair.com
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
>Hi, everyone -
>
>A fellow on the Pietenpol list just had a nasty incident where his prop
>lost a blade in flight. The vibration damaged the engine mount, ripping
>apart a couple of the tubes, but they managed to get it shut down before
>they completely lost the engine and were able to land.
>
>I remember reading in an old Kitplanes issue (I think) that race planes
>often use aircraft cable to secure the engine as a safety measure, to
>keep the CG in the right place if a blade loss pulls the engine off the
>mount. Is that true? If so, how do you secure the cable to the engine?
>
>Curious,
>Jeff C.
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Direction |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/23/04 11:20:23 AM Pacific Standard Time,
foldenburg@earthlink.net writes:
<< Ok this may be a dumb question, but how do I determine which side the
machined head of the rivet should be on? Is there a rule of thumb? >>
The rule of thumb I have used is that the shop head should be on the side
with the thicker material, or with the shop head down or aft for equal thickness
material. In practice I find that I frequently have to violate these rules
because of access for the rivet gun or squeezer.
PS: There are no dumb questions (but there are some dumb answers and I hope
this isn't one of them).
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 18
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| Subject: | This Saturday's Flyin is ON. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@comcast.net>
Damn, I wish Seattle was closer to KY so I could go ;)
-Will
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Denis Walsh
Subject: Re: RV-List: This Saturday's Flyin is ON.
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
A perfect neighborhood!
On Feb 23, 2004, at 7:40 AM, Dana Overall wrote:
> large Liquor World at exit 87, right beside
> Hooters.
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Direction |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
The rule of thumb is that the manufactured head should go on the thinner
material and the shop head should be on the thicker material. This is just
a rule of thumb and not the law. It is to help keep the thinner material
from warping when you drive the rivet. Sometimes for aesthetic reasons you
can turn this around, and occasionally you will find places where it is just
plain difficult to set the rivet unless you break the 'rule'.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Baffles / Cowling
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frederick Oldenburg" <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction
> --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg
<foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>
> Ok this may be a dumb question, but how do I determine which side the
machined head of the rivet should be on? Is there a rule of thumb? I'm
getting ready to rivet the HS-609 rear spar stiffeners to the HS-603 rear
spar channels on my RV-7A Empennage. It seems to me that the rivets should
be pointing aft - i.e. the shop heads would be on the aft side, against the
reinforcement bars and the machine heads would be flush against the thinner
spar channel material.
>
> Is this correct? Is there a rule of thumb? After surfing other builder's
websites, I've seen it done both ways. Does it matter?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
>
>
> Fred Oldenburg
> N270S (Reserved) RV-7A - Empennage
> http://www.rv.oldsack.com
>
>
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@comcast.net>
I had asked Van's this question when I first started because I also saw it
being done both ways on that same part. They told me the rule of thumb was
to put the shop head on the side of the thicker material but that it wasn't
a big deal if you put them in the other direction for places of difficult
access or where you'd rather have the factory heads in a visible spot. They
made it sound like the rule of thumb wasn't anything to think too much about
though.
-Will Allen
North Bend,Wa
RV8 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frederick Oldenburg
Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction
--> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg
<foldenburg@earthlink.net>
Ok this may be a dumb question, but how do I determine which side the
machined head of the rivet should be on? Is there a rule of thumb? I'm
getting ready to rivet the HS-609 rear spar stiffeners to the HS-603 rear
spar channels on my RV-7A Empennage. It seems to me that the rivets should
be pointing aft - i.e. the shop heads would be on the aft side, against the
reinforcement bars and the machine heads would be flush against the thinner
spar channel material.
Is this correct? Is there a rule of thumb? After surfing other builder's
websites, I've seen it done both ways. Does it matter?
Thanks,
Fred
Fred Oldenburg
N270S (Reserved) RV-7A - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Anybody know how to get in touch with Ed Hicks. He's the photographer from
the UK whose pictures are on the covers of most RV-ators.
Thanks,
Andy
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Direction |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
The rule of thumb is the machined end of the rivet (already formed end that
doesn't change shape with the squeezing/riveting) should be on the side
having the thinner material. This rule does not apply to countersunk type
rivets.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
Firewall Forward
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frederick Oldenburg" <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction
> --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg
<foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>
> Ok this may be a dumb question, but how do I determine which side the
machined head of the rivet should be on? Is there a rule of thumb? I'm
getting ready to rivet the HS-609 rear spar stiffeners to the HS-603 rear
spar channels on my RV-7A Empennage. It seems to me that the rivets should
be pointing aft - i.e. the shop heads would be on the aft side, against the
reinforcement bars and the machine heads would be flush against the thinner
spar channel material.
>
> Is this correct? Is there a rule of thumb? After surfing other builder's
websites, I've seen it done both ways. Does it matter?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
>
>
> Fred Oldenburg
> N270S (Reserved) RV-7A - Empennage
> http://www.rv.oldsack.com
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Direction |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi Frederick,
My preference (although I reserve the right to not always follow this ;) is to
place the rivet so that I'm sqeezing the work together as the rivet is being
driven.
Failing that, I place the rivet to give the best access for driving it.
I had a tech counselor out a several weeks ago and I explained the above and he
didn't see any faults.
Regards,
/\/elson
Austin, TX
Emp
SB Wings on order - 11 week lead time (sigh)
On Mon, 23 Feb 2004, Frederick Oldenburg wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>
> Ok this may be a dumb question, but how do I determine which side the
> machined head of the rivet should be on? Is there a rule of thumb? I'm
> getting ready to rivet the HS-609 rear spar stiffeners to the HS-603 rear
> spar channels on my RV-7A Empennage. It seems to me that the rivets should be
> pointing aft - i.e. the shop heads would be on the aft side, against the
> reinforcement bars and the machine heads would be flush against the thinner
> spar channel material.
>
> Is this correct? Is there a rule of thumb? After surfing other builder's
> websites, I've seen it done both ways. Does it matter?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: racer's question: prop loss in flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <thecomptons@bellsouth.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: racer's question: prop loss in flight
> Incidentally and almost entirely unrelated to this post, if you saw what
holds a 747 engine on (3 bolts that aren't all that huge), you'd be amazed!
>
Or scared! ;-) Of course, it's like my aero structures prof said on day 1
of class: anyone can build it strong enough, the trick is to build it just
strong enough.
Randy Compton
Do Not Archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | Oil on the Windscreen!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
Saturday was a glorious day in the Pacific Northwest --
clear skies, about 45 degrees in the morning, and vis
must have been over 100 miles. I had finished flying
off my 25 hours and was going to take up my first
passengers: my wife and then my daughter.
I first flew a 1/2 hour flight to get some climb data
from the EFIS-D10 to do some experimenting with ROC
calculations. I'll report more about that at some
later time. After landing, I met my wife and got her
into the airplane. After takeoff, we realized pretty
quickly that she should have had a bunch more cushions
under her so her vision was somewhat obstructed by
the panel. None-the-less, we climbed up to 5500' and
flew just on the west side of the Cascade mountains.
Just a really beautiful flight if you like mountains.
A small amount of light chop got her attention, but
it was basically an uneventful first passenger flight.
We landed and changed passengers to my daughter. As
I have previously mentioned, she is interested in
getting her license and couldn't wait to get in my
plane. Again, an uneventful takeoff and climbout.
About 2000', I gave her the stick and we immediately
started doing a 3 dimensional rain dance (sorry
Michelle!). She wasn't used to the "touchy" controls
of an RV given that she only has 2-3 hours of stick
time in certified airplanes. We again skirted the
Cascades for awhile and then started heading back to
the airport. About 15 minutes away from the airport,
I noticed some spots on the right side of the wind-
screen. My first thought was we had flown through a
swarm of bugs, but we kept hitting more bugs and the
streaks kept getting longer! OIL! Ok, how bad is
it? Oil pressure/temperature ok. Let's just head
right back to the airport! The streaks kept coming
but rate didn't seem to increase. I did a normal pattern,
landed, and got out of the plane. Yep, the wind-
screen had oil on it. Looked at the left side of
the plane as I got out -- nothing. Went around to
the right side -- yowsers! -- an oil streak from the
front of the cowl all the way to the trailing edge
of the wing. The front of the cowl had oil all over
it as well.
I cleaned the oil off the plane and then took the
cowl off. Both cowl halves have a lot of oil on
them as well as behind the spinner plate and all
over the front of the engine. It is likely to be
either the front seal or the seal in the crankshaft.
(My engine is an O320-E2D with Sensenich fixed pitch.)
I'll take the prop and flywheel off as soon as I get
a chance and see what is going on. I did check the
oil level and could see only a small difference in
the level. I estimate I lost less than a cup total,
but it sure can make a mess.
I talked to another friend who had his engine assembled
by the same IA I did and he said his front seal had
come out as well. He says there is a better adhesive
to use than the one this IA did. Hopefully, this
won't keep me on the ground to long.
Be careful out there!
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM (call sign RV 6 Delta Mike!) grounded.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
In a message dated 2/23/2004 2:14:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dmedema@att.net writes:
yowsers! -- an oil streak from the
front of the cowl all the way to the trailing edge
of the wing.
...sure does help with sphincter control, huh?
DO NOT ARCHIVE!
Message 27
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| Subject: | Alt-Trak Part Deux |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I flew to Midland TX this weekend ~800nm each way. 6.75 down (40 to 55kt.
headwinds) 4.5 back.
The Alt-Trak is WONDERFUL! But...... My earlier post about it not
interfereing with my Dynon magnetometer is false, on northerly headings is
makes a 15 deg swing when I turn the Alt-Trak on and off, so I have to move
the magnetometer. Minor bummer....
The other thing is, after the Alt-Trak has been engaged for a while it has
some EMI in my headset when the intercom is on. If I switch to pilot
isolate it goes away, and I can only hear it with my noise cancelling on,
but it is slightly annoying. Not nearly as annoying as chasing altitudes.
I must confess I cheated on the wire size. The supplied insructions said 20
ga wire for the power line and I has some computer wire that was shielded
with the needed number of 24 ga conductors. The servo said something like
1.2 amps on it so I figured 24 gauge would cut it. I also grounded it to
the airframe behind the panel. All the rest of the panel is grounded to a
grounding lug by the battery, but If that was the problem I would think it
would happen imeadiately rather than after warming up.
So, for the EMI police, is it possible that heavier wire would solve the
problem?
Any thoughts? Are there some easy tricks I might try?
Do not over blow this, it is NOT A BIG DEAL!!!! If I never solve it, I have
no worries, I love my Dynon and I love my Alt-trak, neither one of them are
coming out of my airplane!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
140 hours Dynon time lotsa IMC
Message 28
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| Subject: | Leaky AN Fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
Paul asked for the specifications for an AN flaired fitting. I use the
following:
There is one specification which is the width of the flair measured across
the outside of the opening. Lets call this Dimension "A." If the tube outside
diameter is 1/8 inch, Dimension "A" should be 0.224 plus and minus 0.010
inches. If the tube outside diameter is 1/4 inches, Dimension "A" should be 0.359
plus and minus 0.010 inches.
The flair tool should be screwed down until you feel moderate resistance.
This will give you the proper Dimension "A." It is possible to force the flair
tool too hard and exceed Dimension "A." Once you know what Dimension "A"
should be, you will be able to develop just the right touch for tightening the
flairing tool. Don't forget to put a drop of oil on the male cone of the
flairing tool each time you use it.
Pete Hunt
Clearwater, FL (sunny and 78 degrees today)
RV-6, Installing engine
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Alt-Trak Part Deux |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Just an FYI about the shielded wire.
Since I've been selling a LOT of Dynon harnesses, and given the EMI issues, I decided
to start building the Dynon harnesses out of shielded wire. So, my first
thought to keep cost down was to use Belend computer wire or something similar.
I bought a whole bunch of different shielded wire to study and spoke with
a bunch of Reps at the wire manufactureres.
Basically, for a number of reasons I came to the conclusion that I'd bit the bullet
and buy Mil-Spec tefzel shielded wire (about $2500 worth).
Now I've got a ton of shielded wire on the way, I already have a couple thousand
feet of shielded AWG20, but I also have a 4 wire shielded AWG22 coming for the
remote mag sensor harness.
One of the things about computer cabling vs. Mil-Spec cable that I didn't realize
is the type and density of the shielding. Some of the computer wire has a
braided shield, but it is smaller wire, and lower weave density, the rest has
a foil shield. The experts tell me the Mil-Spec wire has a higher density and
thicker braid for the shield, and the tin or silver coating is much more uniform.
Might be a bunchof crap, but that's what I've been told.
Just my typical 2 cents....
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
>I flew to Midland TX this weekend ~800nm each way. 6.75 down (40 to 55kt.
>headwinds) 4.5 back.
>
>The Alt-Trak is WONDERFUL! But...... My earlier post about it not
>interfereing with my Dynon magnetometer is false, on northerly headings is
>makes a 15 deg swing when I turn the Alt-Trak on and off, so I have to move
>the magnetometer. Minor bummer....
>
>The other thing is, after the Alt-Trak has been engaged for a while it has
>some EMI in my headset when the intercom is on. If I switch to pilot
>isolate it goes away, and I can only hear it with my noise cancelling on,
>but it is slightly annoying. Not nearly as annoying as chasing altitudes.
>
>I must confess I cheated on the wire size. The supplied insructions said 20
>ga wire for the power line and I has some computer wire that was shielded
>with the needed number of 24 ga conductors. The servo said something like
>1.2 amps on it so I figured 24 gauge would cut it. I also grounded it to
>the airframe behind the panel. All the rest of the panel is grounded to a
>grounding lug by the battery, but If that was the problem I would think it
>would happen imeadiately rather than after warming up.
>
>So, for the EMI police, is it possible that heavier wire would solve the
>problem?
>Any thoughts? Are there some easy tricks I might try?
>
>Do not over blow this, it is NOT A BIG DEAL!!!! If I never solve it, I have
>no worries, I love my Dynon and I love my Alt-trak, neither one of them are
>coming out of my airplane!
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
>140 hours Dynon time lotsa IMC
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: racer's question: prop loss in flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: JNice51355@aol.com
In a message dated 2/23/04 11:31:43 AM Pacific Standard Time,
stein@steinair.com writes:
> There's been many a recorded instances of aircraft nearly (and actually)
> shedding an engine after a prop blade failure.
A long time ago I remember seeing an article that showed a Swift(engineless)
sitting on the ground on it's belly with a buckled lower firewall with a
little wall of mud ahead of it. The fellow flying this airplane had a prop
failure, and "somehow" after the engine and cowling shed itself from the airplane,
managed to bring it down with full forward stick. I'd say Very Lucky!!
do not archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | Ozzies, poms and yanks (very off-list) |
--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
What you don't realize is that ozzies and poms call anybody west of
Bermuda a Yank. And for you ozzies and poms, those here in the US that
live south of the Mason-Dixon line call anybody that lives north of it a
Yank, or Yankee. But for most of those north of it, only those that
live in the north-east are Yankees. But for those, only those in Maine,
Connecticut and Vermont are Yankees. But if you get further north than
that , you're a Canadian (some people use another term, but I won't
repeat it.)
Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin,
Tennessee) (so I'm an ex-Yankee, or maybe a carpetbagger)
Do not archive
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
L. R. B., U. C. I B. an ex-CAF Col. from SOUTHern Calif. an ya'll calls
me a
"Yank". 8*) KABONG (GBA) Just for fun. Do Not Archive
Translation: Well I'll be, you see I am a former member of the
Confederate
Air Force who now lives in Apple Valley, California with a pick-up truck
and
a short barrelled 12 ga. who happened to be born in Ohio but considers
himself to be one of these red neck good ole boys.
Message 32
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| Subject: | Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing |
--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
If you don't like the rigid metal tubing approach, you might want to
consider Teflon PTFE tubing. It is rated to 500 deg. F. See the
McMaster-Carr catalog, page 94, at http://www.mcmaster.com/. Note that
it uses compression fittings, also available from McMaster-Carr.
Incidentally, I have found their web site easy to use and that they are
very easy to deal with. They do not give you shipping costs in advance,
but I have found their costs to be very reasonable and the shipping to be
very prompt. There are other places that are cheaper for many items, but
I like them for hard-to-find industrial-grade items.
Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin,
Tennessee)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
(snip)
I then went to the Piper blade, heated pitot tube and disconnected the
lines. Both of the lines were plugged at the pitot tube by melted
tubing.
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Ozzies, poms and yanks (very off-list) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
j1j2h3@juno.com wrote:
> But for those, only those in Maine,
> Connecticut and Vermont are Yankees. But if you get further north than
> that , you're a Canadian (some people use another term, but I won't
> repeat it.)
Don't forget New Hampshire! *grin*
Oh, and the top third of Maine is commonly
known as Southern Occupied Canada
for us Mainers (er, Main-ahs! )
Most everyone up there talks both
Canadian French and English, or just
Canadian French! :-)
-Dj
Message 34
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| Subject: | Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
I'm looking at the installation instructions for the static air system. The
Static Air kit.doc and it looks like this is installed on the bulkhead just
aft of the baggage compartment bulkhead. However after looking at some
installs on other builders web sites it appears to be on the bulkhead near
the seat beat anchor, just below the anchors for the static ports.
Is the correct bulkhead the one nearest the seatbelt anchors? It looks like
the document clearly has it on the one forward of that bulkhead.
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA.
RV-7A In Progress!
>
>
Message 35
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"Rocket List" <rocket-list@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
Are there any good mechanics lurking out there who can tell me how to stop
the tach drive on my RV-4 from leaking? There is a seal shown in the manual
but the drive isn't shown and no word on how to replace the seal. I am
trying to get it ready to sell when I fly the Rocket and oil in the tach
isn't a good selling point.
Jim
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Be careful...I believe they changed the location from the -6 to the -7 by
moving it aft one bulkhead. Call Van's, the only authority on this, to
clarify.
The reason I installed mine aft was because...
On the static kit instructions, the drawings look hand-scribbled. I figured
that was the same kit they shipped to -6 builders back when hand-scribbled
drawings were a rare treat. 8-)
On the RV-7 fuselage drawings (at least on mine, I'm 70379), the static port
location is called out one bulkhead aft, as you noticed. Those drawings are
much higher quality (CAD) and are obviously more recent...well, at least I
assume so. So I took the more recent looking drawing, and the
model-specific drawing (RV-7), to be gospel in my case.
Again, don't take my word for it...if you're unsure, give Van's a call.
(Just had my pitot/static/xpdr check today...14D is IFR certified for a
couple of years...woohoo! And the Dynon's altitude accuracy is amazing, I
must say.)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
> I'm looking at the installation instructions for the static air system.
The
> Static Air kit.doc and it looks like this is installed on the bulkhead
just
> aft of the baggage compartment bulkhead. However after looking at some
> installs on other builders web sites it appears to be on the bulkhead near
> the seat beat anchor, just below the anchors for the static ports.
>
> Is the correct bulkhead the one nearest the seatbelt anchors? It looks
like
> the document clearly has it on the one forward of that bulkhead.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Karie Daniel
> Sammamish, WA.
> RV-7A In Progress!
> >
> >
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: racer's question: prop loss in flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl@gvtc.com>
Okay, I'll confess. I'm not a racer, but I did lose 15" off one blade of my
propeller while tooling along in my rv-4 one day a few years ago. I was on
the way home from a week long trip that included a bunch of time over
hostile terrain such as the Sawtooth Mtns. in Idaho. And yes, I was one of
those who foolishly bought in to the cut down and repitched metal props that
were referred to earlier.The engine didn't come off and the engine mount
didn't break but the rubber engine mount biscuits were destroyed and the
bolts were bent. Lots of cowl damage too. Apparently the engine was moving
around a bit..... Happy ending though. A large airport was only 5 miles away
and 8000 feet below. I could comment on the engine out performance but I
didn't pay too much attention since I was busy trying to manage the
adrenaline rush. I still don't use a snare cable, but I also don't use that
kind of prop anymore either.
Name withheld to protect the guilty.
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <JNice51355@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: racer's question: prop loss in flight
> --> RV-List message posted by: JNice51355@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 2/23/04 11:31:43 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> stein@steinair.com writes:
>
> > There's been many a recorded instances of aircraft nearly (and actually)
> > shedding an engine after a prop blade failure.
>
> A long time ago I remember seeing an article that showed a
Swift(engineless)
> sitting on the ground on it's belly with a buckled lower firewall with a
> little wall of mud ahead of it. The fellow flying this airplane had a
prop
> failure, and "somehow" after the engine and cowling shed itself from the
airplane,
> managed to bring it down with full forward stick. I'd say Very Lucky!!
> do not archive
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
And your wondering what the hell a "the seat beat anchor" is. It's the same
thing as a "seatbelt anchor" except you type it like that after spending way
too much time in the garge for one day. For crying out loud!
Thanks for the replies, I'll give Vans a quick call in the morning to make
sure I'm putting this in the correct place.
Karie Daniel
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Be careful...I believe they changed the location from the -6 to the -7 by
> moving it aft one bulkhead. Call Van's, the only authority on this, to
> clarify.
>
> The reason I installed mine aft was because...
>
> On the static kit instructions, the drawings look hand-scribbled. I
figured
> that was the same kit they shipped to -6 builders back when hand-scribbled
> drawings were a rare treat. 8-)
>
> On the RV-7 fuselage drawings (at least on mine, I'm 70379), the static
port
> location is called out one bulkhead aft, as you noticed. Those drawings
are
> much higher quality (CAD) and are obviously more recent...well, at least I
> assume so. So I took the more recent looking drawing, and the
> model-specific drawing (RV-7), to be gospel in my case.
>
> Again, don't take my word for it...if you're unsure, give Van's a call.
>
> (Just had my pitot/static/xpdr check today...14D is IFR certified for a
> couple of years...woohoo! And the Dynon's altitude accuracy is amazing, I
> must say.)
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
> >
> > I'm looking at the installation instructions for the static air system.
> The
> > Static Air kit.doc and it looks like this is installed on the bulkhead
> just
> > aft of the baggage compartment bulkhead. However after looking at some
> > installs on other builders web sites it appears to be on the bulkhead
near
> > the seat beat anchor, just below the anchors for the static ports.
> >
> > Is the correct bulkhead the one nearest the seatbelt anchors? It looks
> like
> > the document clearly has it on the one forward of that bulkhead.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > Sammamish, WA.
> > RV-7A In Progress!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I talked to another friend who had his engine assembled
by the same IA I did and he said his front seal had
come out as well. He says there is a better adhesive
to use than the one this IA did. Hopefully, this
won't keep me on the ground to long.
Correct me if I am wrong, but the front crank plug is to be installed
with force, not with adhesive. I was shown to place the plug in with
the concave side facing out, then basically pound it in with a thick
wood dowel and hammer until it flattened out. I added a bead of red
Loctite for belt -n- suspenders. Several A & P types have viewed this
and told me it was done right.
Jeff Point
RV-6 inspection scheduled 3-6-04
Milwaukee WI
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
I believe he is talking about the seal not the plug
Jerry
Jeff Point wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
>I talked to another friend who had his engine assembled
>by the same IA I did and he said his front seal had
>come out as well. He says there is a better adhesive
>to use than the one this IA did. Hopefully, this
>won't keep me on the ground to long.
>
>Correct me if I am wrong, but the front crank plug is to be installed
>with force, not with adhesive. I was shown to place the plug in with
>the concave side facing out, then basically pound it in with a thick
>wood dowel and hammer until it flattened out. I added a bead of red
>Loctite for belt -n- suspenders. Several A & P types have viewed this
>and told me it was done right.
>
>Jeff Point
>RV-6 inspection scheduled 3-6-04
>Milwaukee WI
>
>
>
>
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