---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 02/23/04: 40 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:15 AM - Re: engines, engines, engines - wonderful to have choicesfor (Bob U.) 2. 03:22 AM - This Saturday's Flyin is ON. (Dana Overall) 3. 05:11 AM - Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. (LarryRobertHelming) 4. 06:41 AM - Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. (Dana Overall) 5. 06:45 AM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing (Bill Dube) 6. 06:49 AM - Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. (Denis Walsh) 7. 07:20 AM - new 2004 RV Story video (Aircraft Technical Book Company) 8. 07:23 AM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing (Christopher Stone) 9. 07:43 AM - Re: leaky AN fittings (Crosley, Rich) 10. 07:50 AM - FW: URL for Carson City RV Fly-In (BRUCE GRAY) 11. 10:41 AM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing (Ross Mickey) 12. 10:42 AM - racer's question: prop loss in flight (Jeff Cours) 13. 11:14 AM - Re: cutting aluminum with a hole saw (Jeff Cours) 14. 11:16 AM - Schedule for fly-in (BRUCE GRAY) 15. 11:18 AM - Rivet Direction (Frederick Oldenburg) 16. 11:26 AM - Re: racer's question: prop loss in flight (Stein Bruch) 17. 11:43 AM - Re: Rivet Direction (HCRV6@aol.com) 18. 12:08 PM - Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. (Will & Lynda Allen) 19. 12:16 PM - Re: Rivet Direction (Phil Birkelbach) 20. 12:19 PM - Re: Rivet Direction (Will & Lynda Allen) 21. 12:24 PM - Ed Hicks (Aircraft Technical Book Company) 22. 12:25 PM - Re: Rivet Direction (LarryRobertHelming) 23. 12:34 PM - Re: Rivet Direction (David E. Nelson) 24. 12:51 PM - Re: racer's question: prop loss in flight (Randy Compton) 25. 02:09 PM - Oil on the Windscreen!! (dmedema@att.net) 26. 04:07 PM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! (Knicholas2@aol.com) 27. 04:21 PM - Alt-Trak Part Deux (Doug Rozendaal) 28. 04:38 PM - Leaky AN Fittings (PeterHunt1@aol.com) 29. 05:33 PM - Re: Alt-Trak Part Deux (Stein Bruch) 30. 05:42 PM - Re: racer's question: prop loss in flight (JNice51355@aol.com) 31. 07:43 PM - Ozzies, poms and yanks (very off-list) (j1j2h3@juno.com) 32. 07:43 PM - Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing (j1j2h3@juno.com) 33. 08:36 PM - Re: Ozzies, poms and yanks (very off-list) (Dj Merrill) 34. 08:52 PM - Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System (Karie Daniel) 35. 08:59 PM - Tach drive leak (Jim Anglin) 36. 09:31 PM - Re: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System (Dan Checkoway) 37. 09:37 PM - Re: racer's question: prop loss in flight (H.Ivan Haecker) 38. 09:50 PM - Re: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System (Karie Daniel) 39. 10:34 PM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! (Jeff Point) 40. 10:54 PM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! (Jerry Springer) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:15:17 AM PST US From: "Bob U." Subject: Re: RV-List: engines, engines, engines - wonderful to have choicesfor once? --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." jgburns wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "jgburns" > >I guess Bob might be saying don't forget your oxygen. I live in the beautiful Rocky Mountains, so I usually take it with me. ... nothing unusual about those altitudes out here. > >John Burns >7A-QB/Rotary > ================================================= All 'Bob' was doing was responding to Tracy's earlier post about flight performance at 14,500 feet. I wrote what I did to remind folks that they cannot fly above 14,000 msl LEGALLY without supplemental oxygen.... not even 30 minutes. As a Kansas City 'Flatlander', I've never found the need to fly above 14,000 feet to clear the local hills or to obtain satisfactory flight performance. YMMV. :-) 'Bob ' Do NOT archive ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:22:02 AM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: RV-List: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" The Saturday Flyin is ON. Ill be at the hangar by 8AM. Ill have the Hooters wings and the local EAA chapter has asked if they can serve burger, chips and drinks. My cell number is listed below. It appears the entire east coast will be sitting under a large high-pressure area from western MO east. Furthermore it appears this high will extend to the Great Lakes and Florida. Mother nature seems to have lent a helping hand. Weather for Saturday is expected to be 64 degrees, 0% chance of precip, winds out of the south at 9. No weather two days either side of Saturday. As I mentioned in a prior post, all activities will occur at the airport, i39, Madison Co. Airport, Richmond, KY. As a reference, it is about 20 miles south of Lexington, KY. Vendors of which I have either received giveaways from or have received strong assurances from are as follows: I would certainly encourage all to remember this gang. Control Vision: free total AnyWhere Map software package Trioavionics: $200 discount coupon on the purchase of an EZ Autopilot Avery: A box of various tools and such Kitlog Pro: Paul has donated a Kitlog software package. Vans: Two starter kits, shirt, hat. Grand Rapids: 10% off coupon on the purchase of an EIS engine system. Riteangle AOA: $50 off coupon on the purchase of a new angle of attack unit Aircraftextras.com Brian Krauts post light system. I would also encourage anyone having anything to sell, to bring it along. Stick your name on it and lay it on the table. This will be the total honesty system. Everyone chip in and make sure nothing leaves via someones pocket, I sure would like to see all my tools, dies, Dynon, etc. be left behind as I need them just as much as the next guy:-). I only mention this as someone once pocketed a handheld out of a cockpit at a national gathering. I hate to even mention it but there it is. TeamRV is planning on performing their Oshkosh routine along with some just fun formation flying. A formation flight from the Ohio Valley RVators has issued a challenge on TeamRVs website about a competition. A nice little back and forth is going on right now:-). I have received an email from a member of The Falcon RV Squadron and am awaiting a confirmation. I have also heard from several pilots who are offering free RV rides to potential builders and builders. Direction via car: Off I-75, take exit 77 (KY route 595) and turn west. Go about 200 yards and make a right between the BP Station and the Shell Station. Go exactly 2.0 miles and make a right onto Madison County Airport Road. The airport road will take you directly to my hangar. Via air: Anyone flying in, be sure and check the NOTAMs as there is restricted airspace on the east side of I-75 for the army depot. For you newbies; I have turned the Vans starter kits into pre-punched condition. If you want to work with some aluminum, please feel free to do so. There will many experienced builders here to show you some pointers. You will be able to deburr, dimple with squeezer and C-frame, back rivet, buck, pneumatic squeeze, hand squeeze, roll a rudder front, and install nutplates. There will also be composite pilots here and I will bring along some West System and glass. My first airplane was plastic so give a shout. Dana Overall Richmond, KY i39 cell 859 625-2844 RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg do not archive Get fast, reliable access with MSN 9 Dial-up. Click here for Special Offer! ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:11:11 AM PST US From: "LarryRobertHelming" Subject: Re: RV-List: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" Two questions for Dana: How much are tickets and is there a limited number of overnight camping spots and does that cost anything extra for the full electric and waste hookup for the RV. (I might be driving in) Oh yes almost forgot, will the country store be open and have lots of beer or should I be safe and bring some? Does Lexington have mosquitoes this time of year with these nice temps and soft gentle winds? Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak do not archive Firewall Forward ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dana Overall" Subject: RV-List: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" > > The Saturday Flyin is ON. Ill be at the hangar by 8AM. Ill have the > Hooters wings and the local EAA chapter has asked if they can serve burger, > chips and drinks. My cell number is listed below. > > It appears the entire east coast will be sitting under a large high-pressure > area from western MO east. Furthermore it appears this high will extend to > the Great Lakes and Florida. Mother nature seems to have lent a helping > hand. Weather for Saturday is expected to be 64 degrees, 0% chance of > precip, winds out of the south at 9. No weather two days either side of > Saturday. > > As I mentioned in a prior post, all activities will occur at the airport, > i39, Madison Co. Airport, Richmond, KY. As a reference, it is about 20 > miles south of Lexington, KY. > > Vendors of which I have either received giveaways from or have received > strong assurances from are as follows: > > I would certainly encourage all to remember this gang. > > Control Vision: free total AnyWhere Map software package > Trioavionics: $200 discount coupon on the purchase of an EZ Autopilot > Avery: A box of various tools and such > Kitlog Pro: Paul has donated a Kitlog software package. > Vans: Two starter kits, shirt, hat. > Grand Rapids: 10% off coupon on the purchase of an EIS engine system. > Riteangle AOA: $50 off coupon on the purchase of a new angle of attack unit > Aircraftextras.com > Brian Krauts post light system. > > I would also encourage anyone having anything to sell, to bring it along. > Stick your name on it and lay it on the table. This will be the total > honesty system. Everyone chip in and make sure nothing leaves via someones > pocket, I sure would like to see all my tools, dies, Dynon, etc. be left > behind as I need them just as much as the next guy:-). I only mention this > as someone once pocketed a handheld out of a cockpit at a national > gathering. I hate to even mention it but there it is. > > TeamRV is planning on performing their Oshkosh routine along with some just > fun formation flying. A formation flight from the Ohio Valley RVators has > issued a challenge on TeamRVs website about a competition. A nice little > back and forth is going on right now:-). I have received an email from a > member of The Falcon RV Squadron and am awaiting a confirmation. I have > also heard from several pilots who are offering free RV rides to potential > builders and builders. > > Direction via car: > > Off I-75, take exit 77 (KY route 595) and turn west. Go about 200 yards and > make a right between the BP Station and the Shell Station. Go exactly 2.0 > miles and make a right onto Madison County Airport Road. The airport road > will take you directly to my hangar. > > Via air: > > Anyone flying in, be sure and check the NOTAMs as there is restricted > airspace on the east side of I-75 for the army depot. > > For you newbies; I have turned the Vans starter kits into pre-punched > condition. If you want to work with some aluminum, please feel free to do > so. There will many experienced builders here to show you some pointers. > You will be able to deburr, dimple with squeezer and C-frame, back rivet, > buck, pneumatic squeeze, hand squeeze, roll a rudder front, and install > nutplates. There will also be composite pilots here and I will bring along > some West System and glass. My first airplane was plastic so give a shout. > > > Dana Overall > Richmond, KY i39 cell 859 625-2844 > RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" > Finish kit > 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon. > http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg > http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg > http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg > do not archive > > Get fast, reliable access with MSN 9 Dial-up. Click here for Special Offer! > > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:41:38 AM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Re: RV-List: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" >Two questions for Dana: > >How much are tickets No cost, just put your name in the hat for door prizes. and is there a limited number of overnight camping >spots and does that cost anything extra for the full electric and waste >hookup for the RV. (I might be driving in) Oh yes almost forgot, will the >country store be open and have lots of beer or should I be safe and bring >some? Does Lexington have mosquitoes this time of year with these nice >temps and soft gentle winds? The airport has a large parking lot or people can camp in my hangar. Since you are my Oshkosh camping partner and I've spent the night at your house a couple times.....................you got the couch downstairs. No sketters this time of year. If people are driving RVs in, there are two RV campgrounds at the next exit south (only 2 miles, exit 75). As for suds, I'll have some but there is a large Liquor World at exit 87, right beside Hooters. Dana Overall Richmond, KY i39 RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg do not archive Get fast, reliable access with MSN 9 Dial-up. Click here for Special Offer! ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:45:04 AM PST US From: Bill Dube Subject: Re: RV-List: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube > > > I would suggest that you use thin wall stainless tubing for the > > extensions. (Stainless has very low thermal conductivity.) Run the > > stainless tubing through a clamp that is anchored to a rib or spar just > > before you transition to plastic. The clamp will tend to "wick" off any > > heat before it travels to the plastic tube. > > > > >Great suggestion,,,,thanks. If you still have trouble, you might try putting a few TO-92 style heat sinks on the extension tubing. They look like this: http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Aavid/Web%20Photos/322400B00000.jpg The part number is: HS100-ND The you can buy them here: http://www.digikey.com/ >Ross > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:49:53 AM PST US From: Denis Walsh Subject: Re: RV-List: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh A perfect neighborhood! On Feb 23, 2004, at 7:40 AM, Dana Overall wrote: > large Liquor World at exit 87, right beside > Hooters. > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:20:13 AM PST US From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" Subject: RV-List: new 2004 RV Story video --> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" The new 2004 RV story video is now in. The new edition has been redone since the previous 2002 edition and now includes all current models including RV-10, RV7/7A amd RV9/9A. It's 30 minutes of entertainment and inspiration, for a hangarmate, a spouse, or yourself. Cost is $10 in DVD or VHS formats. DVD is in stock now. VHS format will be available in about 1 week. Or FREE with purchase of 21 Years of the RV-ator. (to do that, order 21 Years of the RV-ator and put "FREE RV Story" in special instructions box in on-line order form) (and for now, if you want VHS format, order in DVD and write "VHS copy" in special instructions box) Yes, there will be a discounted upgrade program when the new 24 Years of the RVator book comes out sometime in May. Thanks, Andy Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com 800 780-4115 do not archive ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:23:11 AM PST US From: Christopher Stone Subject: Re: RV-List: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing --> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone Ross... You are using the heated Piper Blade Pitot/Static? I was planning on doing the same. Is yours from a Archer, Arrow or other SE Piper? Do you know the Piper P/N? Other than your melted tubing problem, how does it work? Ok with the Dynon? I am building wings and was waiting for the Dynon heated pitot. Talked wih them (Dynon) Sat at the Washington Aviation Conference in Puyallup WA. Their heated pitot won't be shipping for a couple of months and its a monster (large). The Piper pitot is much less obtrusive and much less likely to snag an unsuspecting tie down chain or rope. Chris Stone RV 8 wings in OR. -----Original Message----- From: Ross Mickey Subject: RV-List: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" After reinstalling my Dynon EFIS, I took N9PT for a test ride. As I became airborne, my AOA started screaming at me to "PUSH, PUSH...ANGLE, ANGLE" As I was in a very shallow climb and pulling 29" x 2650 rpm, I knew this was an erroneous alarm. After quieting my persistent "co-pilot", I radioed in to stay in the pattern and land. My airspeed had risen as I had climbed but didn't change as I cut power and ran through my standard approach. I landed hot and made my way back to the hanger. At first, I thought I had made a REALLY dumb mistake and hooked the pitot static lines up backward. This was not the case, as my instruments worked fine from the fuselage in. I then tried to blow through the tubing from the fuse to the pitot tube....nothing. I could suck, put my tongue on the tube and it would hold suction, not a good thing. I then went to the Piper blade, heated pitot tube and disconnected the lines. Both of the lines were plugged at the pitot tube by melted tubing. I used the stiffer poly tubing, sorry I don't have the exact name but it is the stiffer of the two you can buy from AS. Since the system worked fine the last time I flew, this must have occurred on the ground. The only thing I did after reinstalling the Dynon and installing a cooler to my SD-8 regulator was to test all my electronics. I had the pitot heat on for about 15 sec. I have never heard of this happening and will be looking for a fix that will probably involve adding a short section of non-meltable tubing at the pitot tube for about a foot. Ross Mickey N9PT ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:43:54 AM PST US From: "Crosley, Rich" "'eastham@netapp.com'" Subject: Re: RV-List: leaky AN fittings --> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich" Might try AN fitting seals. Page 104 of the 2002-2003 Aircraft Spruce, they are with the AN fittings. Rich Crosley RV-8, Palmdale, CA ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 07:50:17 AM PST US From: "BRUCE GRAY" Subject: RV-List: FW: URL for Carson City RV Fly-In --> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" Just a quick message to the community that Doug Reeves has set up a link for the details for the fly-in at Carson City. If you ever meet this gentlemen at a fly-in make sure you shake this mans hand and thank him for his invaluable service he's doing for this sport. Thank you again, Bruce >From: "Doug Reeves" >Reply-To: >To: , , >, , , > , , >Subject: URL for Carson City RV Fly-In >Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 08:04:33 -0600 > >Morning all. > >I went ahead and made an area on my RV Activities Calendar just for the >Carson City Fly-In. It's my understanding now that Ken Scott will attend >in one of the factory planes. > >The URL, if you want to start spreading the word, is: > >http://www.vansairforce.net/upcomingevents.htm#CarsonCity > >I've forwarded this to Bob at Van's, as I believe he intends on adding this >link to their site's calendar of scheduled events. > > >-- >Best, > Doug Reeves > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing > URL: www.VansAirForce.net > Contact info: http://www.vansairforce.net/contact.htm >-- Dream of owning a home? Find out how in the First-time Home Buying Guide. ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 10:41:29 AM PST US From: "Ross Mickey" Subject: Re: RV-List: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" I don't know which model or part number. I got it rebuilt from a place in Florida. That was about 8 years ago. It works fine. I have not done extensive flight testing to see how accurate the airspeed is. For my purposes, it is accurate enough. Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "Christopher Stone" Subject: Re: RV-List: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing > --> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone > > Ross... > > You are using the heated Piper Blade Pitot/Static? I was planning on doing the same. Is yours from a Archer, Arrow or other SE Piper? Do you know the Piper P/N? Other than your melted tubing problem, how does it work? Ok with the Dynon? > > I am building wings and was waiting for the Dynon heated pitot. Talked wih them (Dynon) Sat at the Washington Aviation Conference in Puyallup WA. Their heated pitot won't be shipping for a couple of months and its a monster (large). The Piper pitot is much less obtrusive and much less likely to snag an unsuspecting tie down chain or rope. > > Chris Stone > RV 8 wings in OR. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ross Mickey > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" > > After reinstalling my Dynon EFIS, I took N9PT for a test ride. As I became > airborne, my AOA started screaming at me to "PUSH, PUSH...ANGLE, ANGLE" As > I was in a very shallow climb and pulling 29" x 2650 rpm, I knew this was an > erroneous alarm. After quieting my persistent "co-pilot", I radioed in to > stay in the pattern and land. My airspeed had risen as I had climbed but > didn't change as I cut power and ran through my standard approach. I landed > hot and made my way back to the hanger. > > At first, I thought I had made a REALLY dumb mistake and hooked the pitot > static lines up backward. This was not the case, as my instruments worked > fine from the fuselage in. I then tried to blow through the tubing from the > fuse to the pitot tube....nothing. I could suck, put my tongue on the tube > and it would hold suction, not a good thing. > > I then went to the Piper blade, heated pitot tube and disconnected the > lines. Both of the lines were plugged at the pitot tube by melted tubing. > I used the stiffer poly tubing, sorry I don't have the exact name but it is > the stiffer of the two you can buy from AS. Since the system worked fine > the last time I flew, this must have occurred on the ground. The only thing > I did after reinstalling the Dynon and installing a cooler to my SD-8 > regulator was to test all my electronics. I had the pitot heat on for about > 15 sec. > > I have never heard of this happening and will be looking for a fix that will > probably involve adding a short section of non-meltable tubing at the pitot > tube for about a foot. > > Ross Mickey > N9PT > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 10:42:45 AM PST US From: Jeff Cours Subject: RV-List: racer's question: prop loss in flight --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours Hi, everyone - A fellow on the Pietenpol list just had a nasty incident where his prop lost a blade in flight. The vibration damaged the engine mount, ripping apart a couple of the tubes, but they managed to get it shut down before they completely lost the engine and were able to land. I remember reading in an old Kitplanes issue (I think) that race planes often use aircraft cable to secure the engine as a safety measure, to keep the CG in the right place if a blade loss pulls the engine off the mount. Is that true? If so, how do you secure the cable to the engine? Curious, Jeff C. ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 11:14:41 AM PST US From: Jeff Cours Subject: Re: RV-List: cutting aluminum with a hole saw --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours Thanks, everyone, for the advice on cutting the lightening holes -- I just finished them over the weekend and they turned out very nicely. I clamped to a 3/4" particle board backing, center-punched the holes, drilled a #30 pilot hole, then used hole saws that were 1/8" under-sized, used cutting fluid, exhausted both battery packs for the cordless screwdriver, and cleaned up with a smooth cut file and 600 grit sandpaper as necessary. Given the amount of sandpaper I went through on that thick doubler stock, I guess I need to find a better way to finish the inside of a lightening hole, maybe one of those Dremel-sized Scotchbrite wheels or something. Anyway, after the clean-up, the holes came out 1/16" smaller than spec. A fly cutter probably would've let me pick up that extra 1/16, but I'm OK living with optional lightening holes that are a touch smaller than they could've been. Keeping a close eye on the classifieds for a used drill press at the right price, Jeff C. ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 11:16:17 AM PST US From: "BRUCE GRAY" Subject: RV-List: Schedule for fly-in --> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" Doug, This will not be formated to well, so I'll just write it as it will play out. Fri. Apr. 30th-early arrivals. Provide transportation until 7pm. After Capital Cab Co. is available. May 1st - 9am Breakfast call til 10:30am. Arrivals through-out the morning. Lunch call 11am till 1-2pm? Welcome announcements. Prize/Trophy entry all afternoon. Static display viewing through-out the day. May 2nd - 9am - Donutes & Coffee. 9:30-10am award announcements if not done on saturday afternoon due to early departures on Sunday morning. 10am- on will be departures. Our airport managers are going to set up a NOTAM for the event due to the hopeful heavy traffic. They are also working on giving all fly-in participants a fuel discount$$ . Someone knows someone at the Pinon Plaza Resort and is working that avenue for discounts on room rates. I myself am working on contacting vendors to donate some cool prizes for the event, and we are in the process of designing T-Shirts for the fly-in. I would also let everyone know that our city is known for its history. There are museums,capital buildings, and Historical Virginia City. Lots to do in a very small amout of time. We are going to have a great time and hope all the effort pays off with everyone there that can make this fly-in. Get fast, reliable access with MSN 9 Dial-up. Click here for Special Offer! ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 11:18:20 AM PST US From: Frederick Oldenburg Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg Ok this may be a dumb question, but how do I determine which side the machined head of the rivet should be on? Is there a rule of thumb? I'm getting ready to rivet the HS-609 rear spar stiffeners to the HS-603 rear spar channels on my RV-7A Empennage. It seems to me that the rivets should be pointing aft - i.e. the shop heads would be on the aft side, against the reinforcement bars and the machine heads would be flush against the thinner spar channel material. Is this correct? Is there a rule of thumb? After surfing other builder's websites, I've seen it done both ways. Does it matter? Thanks, Fred Fred Oldenburg N270S (Reserved) RV-7A - Empennage http://www.rv.oldsack.com ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 11:26:49 AM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: Re: RV-List: racer's question: prop loss in flight --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" This one is true! I've also seen engines cables on some aerobatic aircraft also. Usually it's more than one cable, running to around the engine mount somewhere to another point on the engine. Don't remember exactly the details, I just remember seeing them on some racers and aerobatic planes. There's been many a recorded instances of aircraft nearly (and actually) shedding an engine after a prop blade failure. Reminds me....I took some aerobatic time in a Pitts out of Centennial(APA) some years ago, and the very next flight after I was in it the hartzell molted one of it's blades, he landed safely in some parking lot with the engine hanging on by 1 bolt.....The prop blade landed in a park in suburban Denver somewhere. Happened to several of the older RV's also, back when people thought cutting their own metal props down was ok. Incidentally and almost entirely unrelated to this post, if you saw what holds a 747 engine on (3 bolts that aren't all that huge), you'd be amazed! Cheers, Stein. Do Not Archive http://www.steinair.com ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: Jeff Cours >--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours > >Hi, everyone - > >A fellow on the Pietenpol list just had a nasty incident where his prop >lost a blade in flight. The vibration damaged the engine mount, ripping >apart a couple of the tubes, but they managed to get it shut down before >they completely lost the engine and were able to land. > >I remember reading in an old Kitplanes issue (I think) that race planes >often use aircraft cable to secure the engine as a safety measure, to >keep the CG in the right place if a blade loss pulls the engine off the >mount. Is that true? If so, how do you secure the cable to the engine? > >Curious, >Jeff C. > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 11:43:56 AM PST US From: HCRV6@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Rivet Direction --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com In a message dated 2/23/04 11:20:23 AM Pacific Standard Time, foldenburg@earthlink.net writes: << Ok this may be a dumb question, but how do I determine which side the machined head of the rivet should be on? Is there a rule of thumb? >> The rule of thumb I have used is that the shop head should be on the side with the thicker material, or with the shop head down or aft for equal thickness material. In practice I find that I frequently have to violate these rules because of access for the rivet gun or squeezer. PS: There are no dumb questions (but there are some dumb answers and I hope this isn't one of them). Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, final assembly ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 12:08:07 PM PST US From: "Will & Lynda Allen" Subject: RE: RV-List: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. --> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" Damn, I wish Seattle was closer to KY so I could go ;) -Will -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Denis Walsh Subject: Re: RV-List: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh A perfect neighborhood! On Feb 23, 2004, at 7:40 AM, Dana Overall wrote: > large Liquor World at exit 87, right beside > Hooters. > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 12:16:02 PM PST US From: "Phil Birkelbach" Subject: Re: RV-List: Rivet Direction --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" The rule of thumb is that the manufactured head should go on the thinner material and the shop head should be on the thicker material. This is just a rule of thumb and not the law. It is to help keep the thinner material from warping when you drive the rivet. Sometimes for aesthetic reasons you can turn this around, and occasionally you will find places where it is just plain difficult to set the rivet unless you break the 'rule'. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Baffles / Cowling http://www.myrv7.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frederick Oldenburg" Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction > --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg > > Ok this may be a dumb question, but how do I determine which side the machined head of the rivet should be on? Is there a rule of thumb? I'm getting ready to rivet the HS-609 rear spar stiffeners to the HS-603 rear spar channels on my RV-7A Empennage. It seems to me that the rivets should be pointing aft - i.e. the shop heads would be on the aft side, against the reinforcement bars and the machine heads would be flush against the thinner spar channel material. > > Is this correct? Is there a rule of thumb? After surfing other builder's websites, I've seen it done both ways. Does it matter? > > Thanks, > > Fred > > > Fred Oldenburg > N270S (Reserved) RV-7A - Empennage > http://www.rv.oldsack.com > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 12:19:00 PM PST US From: "Will & Lynda Allen" Subject: RE: RV-List: Rivet Direction --> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" I had asked Van's this question when I first started because I also saw it being done both ways on that same part. They told me the rule of thumb was to put the shop head on the side of the thicker material but that it wasn't a big deal if you put them in the other direction for places of difficult access or where you'd rather have the factory heads in a visible spot. They made it sound like the rule of thumb wasn't anything to think too much about though. -Will Allen North Bend,Wa RV8 wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frederick Oldenburg Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg Ok this may be a dumb question, but how do I determine which side the machined head of the rivet should be on? Is there a rule of thumb? I'm getting ready to rivet the HS-609 rear spar stiffeners to the HS-603 rear spar channels on my RV-7A Empennage. It seems to me that the rivets should be pointing aft - i.e. the shop heads would be on the aft side, against the reinforcement bars and the machine heads would be flush against the thinner spar channel material. Is this correct? Is there a rule of thumb? After surfing other builder's websites, I've seen it done both ways. Does it matter? Thanks, Fred Fred Oldenburg N270S (Reserved) RV-7A - Empennage http://www.rv.oldsack.com ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 12:24:20 PM PST US From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" Subject: RV-List: Ed Hicks --> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" Anybody know how to get in touch with Ed Hicks. He's the photographer from the UK whose pictures are on the covers of most RV-ators. Thanks, Andy ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 12:25:29 PM PST US From: "LarryRobertHelming" Subject: Re: RV-List: Rivet Direction --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" The rule of thumb is the machined end of the rivet (already formed end that doesn't change shape with the squeezing/riveting) should be on the side having the thinner material. This rule does not apply to countersunk type rivets. Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak Firewall Forward ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frederick Oldenburg" Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction > --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg > > Ok this may be a dumb question, but how do I determine which side the machined head of the rivet should be on? Is there a rule of thumb? I'm getting ready to rivet the HS-609 rear spar stiffeners to the HS-603 rear spar channels on my RV-7A Empennage. It seems to me that the rivets should be pointing aft - i.e. the shop heads would be on the aft side, against the reinforcement bars and the machine heads would be flush against the thinner spar channel material. > > Is this correct? Is there a rule of thumb? After surfing other builder's websites, I've seen it done both ways. Does it matter? > > Thanks, > > Fred > > > Fred Oldenburg > N270S (Reserved) RV-7A - Empennage > http://www.rv.oldsack.com > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 12:34:32 PM PST US From: "David E. Nelson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Rivet Direction --> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" Hi Frederick, My preference (although I reserve the right to not always follow this ;) is to place the rivet so that I'm sqeezing the work together as the rivet is being driven. Failing that, I place the rivet to give the best access for driving it. I had a tech counselor out a several weeks ago and I explained the above and he didn't see any faults. Regards, /\/elson Austin, TX Emp SB Wings on order - 11 week lead time (sigh) On Mon, 23 Feb 2004, Frederick Oldenburg wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg > > Ok this may be a dumb question, but how do I determine which side the > machined head of the rivet should be on? Is there a rule of thumb? I'm > getting ready to rivet the HS-609 rear spar stiffeners to the HS-603 rear > spar channels on my RV-7A Empennage. It seems to me that the rivets should be > pointing aft - i.e. the shop heads would be on the aft side, against the > reinforcement bars and the machine heads would be flush against the thinner > spar channel material. > > Is this correct? Is there a rule of thumb? After surfing other builder's > websites, I've seen it done both ways. Does it matter? > > Thanks, > > Fred > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 12:51:41 PM PST US From: "Randy Compton" Subject: Re: RV-List: racer's question: prop loss in flight --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: Re: RV-List: racer's question: prop loss in flight > Incidentally and almost entirely unrelated to this post, if you saw what holds a 747 engine on (3 bolts that aren't all that huge), you'd be amazed! > Or scared! ;-) Of course, it's like my aero structures prof said on day 1 of class: anyone can build it strong enough, the trick is to build it just strong enough. Randy Compton Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 02:09:31 PM PST US From: dmedema@att.net Subject: RV-List: Oil on the Windscreen!! --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net Saturday was a glorious day in the Pacific Northwest -- clear skies, about 45 degrees in the morning, and vis must have been over 100 miles. I had finished flying off my 25 hours and was going to take up my first passengers: my wife and then my daughter. I first flew a 1/2 hour flight to get some climb data from the EFIS-D10 to do some experimenting with ROC calculations. I'll report more about that at some later time. After landing, I met my wife and got her into the airplane. After takeoff, we realized pretty quickly that she should have had a bunch more cushions under her so her vision was somewhat obstructed by the panel. None-the-less, we climbed up to 5500' and flew just on the west side of the Cascade mountains. Just a really beautiful flight if you like mountains. A small amount of light chop got her attention, but it was basically an uneventful first passenger flight. We landed and changed passengers to my daughter. As I have previously mentioned, she is interested in getting her license and couldn't wait to get in my plane. Again, an uneventful takeoff and climbout. About 2000', I gave her the stick and we immediately started doing a 3 dimensional rain dance (sorry Michelle!). She wasn't used to the "touchy" controls of an RV given that she only has 2-3 hours of stick time in certified airplanes. We again skirted the Cascades for awhile and then started heading back to the airport. About 15 minutes away from the airport, I noticed some spots on the right side of the wind- screen. My first thought was we had flown through a swarm of bugs, but we kept hitting more bugs and the streaks kept getting longer! OIL! Ok, how bad is it? Oil pressure/temperature ok. Let's just head right back to the airport! The streaks kept coming but rate didn't seem to increase. I did a normal pattern, landed, and got out of the plane. Yep, the wind- screen had oil on it. Looked at the left side of the plane as I got out -- nothing. Went around to the right side -- yowsers! -- an oil streak from the front of the cowl all the way to the trailing edge of the wing. The front of the cowl had oil all over it as well. I cleaned the oil off the plane and then took the cowl off. Both cowl halves have a lot of oil on them as well as behind the spinner plate and all over the front of the engine. It is likely to be either the front seal or the seal in the crankshaft. (My engine is an O320-E2D with Sensenich fixed pitch.) I'll take the prop and flywheel off as soon as I get a chance and see what is going on. I did check the oil level and could see only a small difference in the level. I estimate I lost less than a cup total, but it sure can make a mess. I talked to another friend who had his engine assembled by the same IA I did and he said his front seal had come out as well. He says there is a better adhesive to use than the one this IA did. Hopefully, this won't keep me on the ground to long. Be careful out there! Doug Medema RV-6A N276DM (call sign RV 6 Delta Mike!) grounded. ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 04:07:32 PM PST US From: Knicholas2@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil on the Windscreen!! --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com In a message dated 2/23/2004 2:14:03 PM Pacific Standard Time, dmedema@att.net writes: yowsers! -- an oil streak from the front of the cowl all the way to the trailing edge of the wing. ...sure does help with sphincter control, huh? DO NOT ARCHIVE! ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 04:21:59 PM PST US From: "Doug Rozendaal" Subject: RV-List: Alt-Trak Part Deux --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" I flew to Midland TX this weekend ~800nm each way. 6.75 down (40 to 55kt. headwinds) 4.5 back. The Alt-Trak is WONDERFUL! But...... My earlier post about it not interfereing with my Dynon magnetometer is false, on northerly headings is makes a 15 deg swing when I turn the Alt-Trak on and off, so I have to move the magnetometer. Minor bummer.... The other thing is, after the Alt-Trak has been engaged for a while it has some EMI in my headset when the intercom is on. If I switch to pilot isolate it goes away, and I can only hear it with my noise cancelling on, but it is slightly annoying. Not nearly as annoying as chasing altitudes. I must confess I cheated on the wire size. The supplied insructions said 20 ga wire for the power line and I has some computer wire that was shielded with the needed number of 24 ga conductors. The servo said something like 1.2 amps on it so I figured 24 gauge would cut it. I also grounded it to the airframe behind the panel. All the rest of the panel is grounded to a grounding lug by the battery, but If that was the problem I would think it would happen imeadiately rather than after warming up. So, for the EMI police, is it possible that heavier wire would solve the problem? Any thoughts? Are there some easy tricks I might try? Do not over blow this, it is NOT A BIG DEAL!!!! If I never solve it, I have no worries, I love my Dynon and I love my Alt-trak, neither one of them are coming out of my airplane! Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal 140 hours Dynon time lotsa IMC ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 04:38:34 PM PST US From: PeterHunt1@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Leaky AN Fittings --> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com Paul asked for the specifications for an AN flaired fitting. I use the following: There is one specification which is the width of the flair measured across the outside of the opening. Lets call this Dimension "A." If the tube outside diameter is 1/8 inch, Dimension "A" should be 0.224 plus and minus 0.010 inches. If the tube outside diameter is 1/4 inches, Dimension "A" should be 0.359 plus and minus 0.010 inches. The flair tool should be screwed down until you feel moderate resistance. This will give you the proper Dimension "A." It is possible to force the flair tool too hard and exceed Dimension "A." Once you know what Dimension "A" should be, you will be able to develop just the right touch for tightening the flairing tool. Don't forget to put a drop of oil on the male cone of the flairing tool each time you use it. Pete Hunt Clearwater, FL (sunny and 78 degrees today) RV-6, Installing engine ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 05:33:47 PM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: Re: RV-List: Alt-Trak Part Deux --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" Just an FYI about the shielded wire. Since I've been selling a LOT of Dynon harnesses, and given the EMI issues, I decided to start building the Dynon harnesses out of shielded wire. So, my first thought to keep cost down was to use Belend computer wire or something similar. I bought a whole bunch of different shielded wire to study and spoke with a bunch of Reps at the wire manufactureres. Basically, for a number of reasons I came to the conclusion that I'd bit the bullet and buy Mil-Spec tefzel shielded wire (about $2500 worth). Now I've got a ton of shielded wire on the way, I already have a couple thousand feet of shielded AWG20, but I also have a 4 wire shielded AWG22 coming for the remote mag sensor harness. One of the things about computer cabling vs. Mil-Spec cable that I didn't realize is the type and density of the shielding. Some of the computer wire has a braided shield, but it is smaller wire, and lower weave density, the rest has a foil shield. The experts tell me the Mil-Spec wire has a higher density and thicker braid for the shield, and the tin or silver coating is much more uniform. Might be a bunchof crap, but that's what I've been told. Just my typical 2 cents.... Cheers, Stein Bruch http://www.steinair.com ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Doug Rozendaal" >--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" > >I flew to Midland TX this weekend ~800nm each way. 6.75 down (40 to 55kt. >headwinds) 4.5 back. > >The Alt-Trak is WONDERFUL! But...... My earlier post about it not >interfereing with my Dynon magnetometer is false, on northerly headings is >makes a 15 deg swing when I turn the Alt-Trak on and off, so I have to move >the magnetometer. Minor bummer.... > >The other thing is, after the Alt-Trak has been engaged for a while it has >some EMI in my headset when the intercom is on. If I switch to pilot >isolate it goes away, and I can only hear it with my noise cancelling on, >but it is slightly annoying. Not nearly as annoying as chasing altitudes. > >I must confess I cheated on the wire size. The supplied insructions said 20 >ga wire for the power line and I has some computer wire that was shielded >with the needed number of 24 ga conductors. The servo said something like >1.2 amps on it so I figured 24 gauge would cut it. I also grounded it to >the airframe behind the panel. All the rest of the panel is grounded to a >grounding lug by the battery, but If that was the problem I would think it >would happen imeadiately rather than after warming up. > >So, for the EMI police, is it possible that heavier wire would solve the >problem? >Any thoughts? Are there some easy tricks I might try? > >Do not over blow this, it is NOT A BIG DEAL!!!! If I never solve it, I have >no worries, I love my Dynon and I love my Alt-trak, neither one of them are >coming out of my airplane! > >Tailwinds, >Doug Rozendaal > >140 hours Dynon time lotsa IMC > > ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 05:42:35 PM PST US From: JNice51355@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: racer's question: prop loss in flight --> RV-List message posted by: JNice51355@aol.com In a message dated 2/23/04 11:31:43 AM Pacific Standard Time, stein@steinair.com writes: > There's been many a recorded instances of aircraft nearly (and actually) > shedding an engine after a prop blade failure. A long time ago I remember seeing an article that showed a Swift(engineless) sitting on the ground on it's belly with a buckled lower firewall with a little wall of mud ahead of it. The fellow flying this airplane had a prop failure, and "somehow" after the engine and cowling shed itself from the airplane, managed to bring it down with full forward stick. I'd say Very Lucky!! do not archive ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 07:43:30 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Ozzies, poms and yanks (very off-list) From: j1j2h3@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com What you don't realize is that ozzies and poms call anybody west of Bermuda a Yank. And for you ozzies and poms, those here in the US that live south of the Mason-Dixon line call anybody that lives north of it a Yank, or Yankee. But for most of those north of it, only those that live in the north-east are Yankees. But for those, only those in Maine, Connecticut and Vermont are Yankees. But if you get further north than that , you're a Canadian (some people use another term, but I won't repeat it.) Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin, Tennessee) (so I'm an ex-Yankee, or maybe a carpetbagger) Do not archive --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" L. R. B., U. C. I B. an ex-CAF Col. from SOUTHern Calif. an ya'll calls me a "Yank". 8*) KABONG (GBA) Just for fun. Do Not Archive Translation: Well I'll be, you see I am a former member of the Confederate Air Force who now lives in Apple Valley, California with a pick-up truck and a short barrelled 12 ga. who happened to be born in Ohio but considers himself to be one of these red neck good ole boys. ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 07:43:30 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing From: j1j2h3@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com If you don't like the rigid metal tubing approach, you might want to consider Teflon PTFE tubing. It is rated to 500 deg. F. See the McMaster-Carr catalog, page 94, at http://www.mcmaster.com/. Note that it uses compression fittings, also available from McMaster-Carr. Incidentally, I have found their web site easy to use and that they are very easy to deal with. They do not give you shipping costs in advance, but I have found their costs to be very reasonable and the shipping to be very prompt. There are other places that are cheaper for many items, but I like them for hard-to-find industrial-grade items. Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin, Tennessee) --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" (snip) I then went to the Piper blade, heated pitot tube and disconnected the lines. Both of the lines were plugged at the pitot tube by melted tubing. ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 08:36:55 PM PST US From: Dj Merrill Subject: Re: RV-List: Ozzies, poms and yanks (very off-list) --> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill j1j2h3@juno.com wrote: > But for those, only those in Maine, > Connecticut and Vermont are Yankees. But if you get further north than > that , you're a Canadian (some people use another term, but I won't > repeat it.) Don't forget New Hampshire! *grin* Oh, and the top third of Maine is commonly known as Southern Occupied Canada for us Mainers (er, Main-ahs! ) Most everyone up there talks both Canadian French and English, or just Canadian French! :-) -Dj ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 08:52:33 PM PST US From: "Karie Daniel" Subject: RV-List: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" I'm looking at the installation instructions for the static air system. The Static Air kit.doc and it looks like this is installed on the bulkhead just aft of the baggage compartment bulkhead. However after looking at some installs on other builders web sites it appears to be on the bulkhead near the seat beat anchor, just below the anchors for the static ports. Is the correct bulkhead the one nearest the seatbelt anchors? It looks like the document clearly has it on the one forward of that bulkhead. Thanks, Karie Daniel Sammamish, WA. RV-7A In Progress! > > ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 08:59:50 PM PST US From: "Jim Anglin" "Rocket List" Subject: RV-List: Tach drive leak --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" Are there any good mechanics lurking out there who can tell me how to stop the tach drive on my RV-4 from leaking? There is a seal shown in the manual but the drive isn't shown and no word on how to replace the seal. I am trying to get it ready to sell when I fly the Rocket and oil in the tach isn't a good selling point. Jim ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 09:31:04 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Be careful...I believe they changed the location from the -6 to the -7 by moving it aft one bulkhead. Call Van's, the only authority on this, to clarify. The reason I installed mine aft was because... On the static kit instructions, the drawings look hand-scribbled. I figured that was the same kit they shipped to -6 builders back when hand-scribbled drawings were a rare treat. 8-) On the RV-7 fuselage drawings (at least on mine, I'm 70379), the static port location is called out one bulkhead aft, as you noticed. Those drawings are much higher quality (CAD) and are obviously more recent...well, at least I assume so. So I took the more recent looking drawing, and the model-specific drawing (RV-7), to be gospel in my case. Again, don't take my word for it...if you're unsure, give Van's a call. (Just had my pitot/static/xpdr check today...14D is IFR certified for a couple of years...woohoo! And the Dynon's altitude accuracy is amazing, I must say.) )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Karie Daniel" Subject: RV-List: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" > > I'm looking at the installation instructions for the static air system. The > Static Air kit.doc and it looks like this is installed on the bulkhead just > aft of the baggage compartment bulkhead. However after looking at some > installs on other builders web sites it appears to be on the bulkhead near > the seat beat anchor, just below the anchors for the static ports. > > Is the correct bulkhead the one nearest the seatbelt anchors? It looks like > the document clearly has it on the one forward of that bulkhead. > > Thanks, > > Karie Daniel > Sammamish, WA. > RV-7A In Progress! > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 09:37:40 PM PST US From: "H.Ivan Haecker" Subject: Re: RV-List: racer's question: prop loss in flight --> RV-List message posted by: "H.Ivan Haecker" Okay, I'll confess. I'm not a racer, but I did lose 15" off one blade of my propeller while tooling along in my rv-4 one day a few years ago. I was on the way home from a week long trip that included a bunch of time over hostile terrain such as the Sawtooth Mtns. in Idaho. And yes, I was one of those who foolishly bought in to the cut down and repitched metal props that were referred to earlier.The engine didn't come off and the engine mount didn't break but the rubber engine mount biscuits were destroyed and the bolts were bent. Lots of cowl damage too. Apparently the engine was moving around a bit..... Happy ending though. A large airport was only 5 miles away and 8000 feet below. I could comment on the engine out performance but I didn't pay too much attention since I was busy trying to manage the adrenaline rush. I still don't use a snare cable, but I also don't use that kind of prop anymore either. Name withheld to protect the guilty. Do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: racer's question: prop loss in flight > --> RV-List message posted by: JNice51355@aol.com > > In a message dated 2/23/04 11:31:43 AM Pacific Standard Time, > stein@steinair.com writes: > > > There's been many a recorded instances of aircraft nearly (and actually) > > shedding an engine after a prop blade failure. > > A long time ago I remember seeing an article that showed a Swift(engineless) > sitting on the ground on it's belly with a buckled lower firewall with a > little wall of mud ahead of it. The fellow flying this airplane had a prop > failure, and "somehow" after the engine and cowling shed itself from the airplane, > managed to bring it down with full forward stick. I'd say Very Lucky!! > do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 09:50:43 PM PST US From: "Karie Daniel" Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" And your wondering what the hell a "the seat beat anchor" is. It's the same thing as a "seatbelt anchor" except you type it like that after spending way too much time in the garge for one day. For crying out loud! Thanks for the replies, I'll give Vans a quick call in the morning to make sure I'm putting this in the correct place. Karie Daniel DO NOT ARCHIVE ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > > Be careful...I believe they changed the location from the -6 to the -7 by > moving it aft one bulkhead. Call Van's, the only authority on this, to > clarify. > > The reason I installed mine aft was because... > > On the static kit instructions, the drawings look hand-scribbled. I figured > that was the same kit they shipped to -6 builders back when hand-scribbled > drawings were a rare treat. 8-) > > On the RV-7 fuselage drawings (at least on mine, I'm 70379), the static port > location is called out one bulkhead aft, as you noticed. Those drawings are > much higher quality (CAD) and are obviously more recent...well, at least I > assume so. So I took the more recent looking drawing, and the > model-specific drawing (RV-7), to be gospel in my case. > > Again, don't take my word for it...if you're unsure, give Van's a call. > > (Just had my pitot/static/xpdr check today...14D is IFR certified for a > couple of years...woohoo! And the Dynon's altitude accuracy is amazing, I > must say.) > > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D > http://www.rvproject.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Karie Daniel" > To: > Subject: RV-List: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" > > > > I'm looking at the installation instructions for the static air system. > The > > Static Air kit.doc and it looks like this is installed on the bulkhead > just > > aft of the baggage compartment bulkhead. However after looking at some > > installs on other builders web sites it appears to be on the bulkhead near > > the seat beat anchor, just below the anchors for the static ports. > > > > Is the correct bulkhead the one nearest the seatbelt anchors? It looks > like > > the document clearly has it on the one forward of that bulkhead. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Karie Daniel > > Sammamish, WA. > > RV-7A In Progress! > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 10:34:54 PM PST US From: Jeff Point Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil on the Windscreen!! --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point I talked to another friend who had his engine assembled by the same IA I did and he said his front seal had come out as well. He says there is a better adhesive to use than the one this IA did. Hopefully, this won't keep me on the ground to long. Correct me if I am wrong, but the front crank plug is to be installed with force, not with adhesive. I was shown to place the plug in with the concave side facing out, then basically pound it in with a thick wood dowel and hammer until it flattened out. I added a bead of red Loctite for belt -n- suspenders. Several A & P types have viewed this and told me it was done right. Jeff Point RV-6 inspection scheduled 3-6-04 Milwaukee WI ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 10:54:17 PM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil on the Windscreen!! --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer I believe he is talking about the seal not the plug Jerry Jeff Point wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point > >I talked to another friend who had his engine assembled >by the same IA I did and he said his front seal had >come out as well. He says there is a better adhesive >to use than the one this IA did. Hopefully, this >won't keep me on the ground to long. > >Correct me if I am wrong, but the front crank plug is to be installed >with force, not with adhesive. I was shown to place the plug in with >the concave side facing out, then basically pound it in with a thick >wood dowel and hammer until it flattened out. I added a bead of red >Loctite for belt -n- suspenders. Several A & P types have viewed this >and told me it was done right. > >Jeff Point >RV-6 inspection scheduled 3-6-04 >Milwaukee WI > > > >