Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:37 AM - Re: Tach drive leak (JW MILLS)
2. 05:15 AM - Albuquerque Listers? (Michael Pilla)
3. 06:01 AM - Lycoming for sale (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
4. 06:25 AM - Re: Tach drive leak (Jeff Dowling)
5. 06:42 AM - Re: Tach drive leak (Cy Galley)
6. 07:52 AM - Re: racer's question: prop loss in flight (Bluecavu@aol.com)
7. 08:08 AM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! (John)
8. 08:18 AM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! (Dave Mader)
9. 08:38 AM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! (Jeff Point)
10. 08:40 AM - Heated air inlet location (Scott Diffenbaugh)
11. 08:51 AM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! (Bob U.)
12. 08:56 AM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! (Jeff Point)
13. 10:08 AM - RV7 Finish Kit ()
14. 10:12 AM - Sport (Wheeler North)
15. 10:20 AM - Re: Heated air inlet location (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
16. 10:45 AM - Re: Heated air inlet location (Alex Peterson)
17. 10:55 AM - Seal (Wheeler North)
18. 11:19 AM - Re: Heated air inlet location (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
19. 12:18 PM - Re: Crank plug (from RV-list) (Wheeler North)
20. 12:40 PM - FrozenControls (DAVID REEL)
21. 12:43 PM - Re: Crank plug (from RV-list) (Wheeler North)
22. 01:11 PM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing (Matt Jurotich)
23. 01:20 PM - Re: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System (David Carter)
24. 01:27 PM - Re: Lycoming for sale (PArita@aol.com)
25. 01:49 PM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! (linn walters)
26. 02:26 PM - Quick Oil Drain (Flyguy6a@aol.com)
27. 02:48 PM - Re: Albuquerque Listers? (Jim Daniels)
28. 02:53 PM - Re: FrozenControls (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
29. 03:07 PM - FWF delivery time? (Bobby Hester)
30. 03:24 PM - Re: FrozenControls (Alex Peterson)
31. 03:32 PM - Screws (Mickey Coggins)
32. 03:44 PM - Re: Screws (Ron Calhoun)
33. 03:44 PM - Re: Screws (Richard Tasker)
34. 03:49 PM - Re: Screws (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
35. 04:00 PM - Re: FrozenControls (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
36. 04:39 PM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing (Ross Mickey)
37. 04:55 PM - Re: RV7 Finish Kit (Dan Checkoway)
38. 04:55 PM - Re: Ozzies, poms and yanks (very off-list) (Joe Hine)
39. 05:04 PM - Cabin Heat (William Davis)
40. 05:26 PM - RV-8 Canopy Latches (William Davis)
41. 05:26 PM - Re: Screws (Phat Phil)
42. 05:32 PM - Re: Screws (Darwin N. Barrie)
43. 06:19 PM - Re: Cabin Heat (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
44. 06:27 PM - >Re:FWF Delivery Time (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
45. 07:11 PM - Re: FrozenControls (Don Mack)
46. 07:17 PM - Condition Inspection Checklist (Gabe A Ferrer)
47. 07:27 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 01/28/04 (RV4WGH@aol.com)
48. 07:29 PM - Opinions on new Ray Allen stick grips (Charlie Kuss)
49. 07:32 PM - Re: >Re:FWF Delivery Time (Bobby Hester)
50. 07:33 PM - Re: FrozenControls (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
51. 08:10 PM - Re: FWF delivery time? (James E. Clark)
52. 08:14 PM - Sun 'n Fun Rotary Discussion (jgburns)
53. 08:20 PM - Re: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System (Karie Daniel)
54. 08:28 PM - Ruined HS Skin (Fred Oldenburg)
55. 09:04 PM - Re: Ruined HS Skin (Tom Gummo)
56. 09:04 PM - Re: Ruined HS Skin (Mike Comeaux)
57. 09:19 PM - Re: Heated air inlet location (Vanremog@aol.com)
58. 09:46 PM - Re: Condition Inspection Checklist (Bill VonDane)
59. 09:53 PM - Re: Ruined HS Skin (Brett Morawski)
60. 11:35 PM - Re: Ruined HS Skin (Greg Grigson)
61. 11:53 PM - Re: Screws (Mickey Coggins)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Tach drive leak |
Seal-Send-Time: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 07:33:26 -0500
--> RV-List message posted by: "JW MILLS" <fly-me@msn.com>
Jim,
buy the new seal
disconnected the tach cable at the drive
bend sharp hook bend in a piece of welding rod
reach in and pull the old seal out from the back side
you will destroy it but don't worry about it
be carefull not to score the case while pulling the seal with your new tool
tap the new seal in place and you are good to go
I used the same procedure on a Pitts I just sold. It works fine, just a little
tedious removing the seal.
JW
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Anglin
To: RV List ; Rocket List
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 11:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tach drive leak
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
Are there any good mechanics lurking out there who can tell me how to stop
the tach drive on my RV-4 from leaking? There is a seal shown in the manual
but the drive isn't shown and no word on how to replace the seal. I am
trying to get it ready to sell when I fly the Rocket and oil in the tach
isn't a good selling point.
Jim
Message 2
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| Subject: | Albuquerque Listers? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Pilla" <mpilla@maine.rr.com>
Are there any listers in the Albuquerque area? My wife and I are going to
be there this coming Friday afternoon through Sunday afternoon. We have a
fairly full schedule, but it would be nice to see someone else's project.
I'm at the finishing kit stages of my RV-4, #2866.
Thanks.
Michael Pilla
Message 3
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| Subject: | Lycoming for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Posting for a fellow airport bum:
O-320 E2D complete with the following:
Slick mags
vacuum pump
oil filter adapter
carb
starter
flywheel/ring gear
1100 SMOH, all logs since new
$8K
Please reply off-list for contact info.
Mark Phillips - do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Tach drive leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I dont know if this will work but it worked great in a different
application.
I used a strong fishing hook to remove a seal. Straighten it out, grab it
with a pair of vice grips, push it in and twist. The barb dug in and made
it easy to remove. Just a thought.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
44 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "JW MILLS" <fly-me@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tach drive leak
> --> RV-List message posted by: "JW MILLS" <fly-me@msn.com>
>
> Jim,
>
> buy the new seal
> disconnected the tach cable at the drive
> bend sharp hook bend in a piece of welding rod
> reach in and pull the old seal out from the back side
> you will destroy it but don't worry about it
> be carefull not to score the case while pulling the seal with your new
tool
> tap the new seal in place and you are good to go
>
> I used the same procedure on a Pitts I just sold. It works fine, just a
little tedious removing the seal.
>
> JW
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Anglin
> To: RV List ; Rocket List
> Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 11:59 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Tach drive leak
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
>
> Are there any good mechanics lurking out there who can tell me how to
stop
> the tach drive on my RV-4 from leaking? There is a seal shown in the
manual
> but the drive isn't shown and no word on how to replace the seal. I am
> trying to get it ready to sell when I fly the Rocket and oil in the tach
> isn't a good selling point.
>
> Jim
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Tach drive leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Don't know how "good" I am but the seal for the tach drive is in the engine.
The piece that you screw on the drive cable has the seal. It must be
removed and the seal in the engine side of the flange.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or sportpilot@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
<rocket-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tach drive leak
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
>
> Are there any good mechanics lurking out there who can tell me how to stop
> the tach drive on my RV-4 from leaking? There is a seal shown in the
manual
> but the drive isn't shown and no word on how to replace the seal. I am
> trying to get it ready to sell when I fly the Rocket and oil in the tach
> isn't a good selling point.
>
> Jim
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: racer's question: prop loss in flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bluecavu@aol.com
The ones I've seen used about a 1/4" cable that went from some sort of
fitting at the base of one of the mount legs at the firewall where it was swaged
and
then around the crankcase between the cylinders where it used the cable
clamps with the u-bolts and nuts from a hardware store. Some sort of rubber or
plastic tubing to feed the cable through was used to prevent chafing, and the
whole affair was ty-wrapped to the mount legs to keep it neat along it's run. Only
a minimal length of cable was used.
I was strongly considering this after my experience with a Global QCS prop
this last year -after finding cracks at the blade root ends. Check the archives
for more on this prop.
Scott
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
I believe that the crank plug should be inserted with the convex side
pointing forward...that way, when you whack it the metal expands outward and
seats into the surrounding area...if you had the concave side pointing
forward the whack would make the plug essentially a smaller diameter and
would not seal properly...right?
John
Message 8
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| Subject: | Oil on the Windscreen!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Doug
Same scenario happened to me with the exact same engine on a flight to
Amarillo.....
(with my wife, naturally). First noticed a few specks of oil on the
windscreen, then
progressively worse. When we landed, we determined it was the front seal
and had
it replaced.
After no more than 50 hrs. the seal went out again.....(the first and
second were both
installed by A&P's). After doing some investigating and making a few
phone
calls, I found out that there are two different seals that will fit the
E2D, and that the best
one is the seal that doesn't use the small diameter spring. You would
naturally think
that this would work better than the other type, since it holds pressure
against the
crank but after replacing with the other type, and 400+ hrs. later.......no
leaks. Sorry,
I can't give you the part #
Dave Mader
2nd slow build 6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of dmedema@att.net
Subject: RV-List: Oil on the Windscreen!!
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
I talked to another friend who had his engine assembled
by the same IA I did and he said his front seal had
come out as well. He says there is a better adhesive
to use than the one this IA did. Hopefully, this
won't keep me on the ground to long.
Be careful out there!
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM (call sign RV 6 Delta Mike!) grounded.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
OK, after re-reading his post, I think your right. Another reason why
my send key should be disabled after midnight.
Jeff
Do not archive
Jerry Springer wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
>I believe he is talking about the seal not the plug
>
>Jerry
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Heated air inlet location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff@foothill.net>
There appear to be two choices for heater air inlet location - left front
baffle floor or right rear baffle bulkhead. I would prefer to locate it on
the right rear for simplicity, but am wondering if anyone can correlate
cylinder # 3 typically running hot (summertime) with right rear location, or
high oil temps (left rear baffle mounted oil cooler) with left front inlet
location? I have the standard Vans set up with right mounted muff and
bypass valve on firewall. Any other pros and cons would be appreciated.
Scott RV7A 80% complete
Scott Diffenbaugh
diff@foothill.net
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Dave Mader wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
>
>Doug
>
>Same scenario happened to me with the exact same engine on a flight to
>Amarillo.....
>(with my wife, naturally). First noticed a few specks of oil on the
>windscreen, then
>progressively worse. When we landed, we determined it was the front seal
>and had
>it replaced.
>After no more than 50 hrs. the seal went out again.....(the first and
>second were both
>installed by A&P's). After doing some investigating and making a few
>phone
>calls, I found out that there are two different seals that will fit the
>E2D, and that the best
>one is the seal that doesn't use the small diameter spring. You would
>naturally think
>that this would work better than the other type, since it holds pressure
>against the
>crank but after replacing with the other type, and 400+ hrs. later.......no
>leaks. Sorry,
>I can't give you the part #
>
>Dave Mader
>
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
An additional note.....
If the crankcase breather system becomes sufficiently restricted, the
seal will fail. This can be caused by ice forming in the vent pipe or
masking tape not removed from it after a paint job.
Bob
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Concave, convex, maybe it's been too long since high school geometry.
You are correct. What I meant was that the rounded part should face the
front, as you describe.
Jeff
John wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
>I believe that the crank plug should be inserted with the convex side
>pointing forward...that way, when you whack it the metal expands outward and
>seats into the surrounding area...if you had the concave side pointing
>forward the whack would make the plug essentially a smaller diameter and
>would not seal properly...right?
>John
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: <benandginny@insightbb.com>
I just spoke with Vans today and my RV7 finish kit is ready to ship. 10 weeks
from the time I ordered. (Not the 16 weeks as advertised). I would like some
info on what tools, products, and just nice things to have, that I can order
now to be ready to go when this kit arrives. Specifically items for the canopy,
fiberglass work etc.
Ben Cunningham
RV7
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>>>>>>If you ever meet this gentlemen
at a fly-in make sure you shake this mans hand and thank him for his
invaluable service he's doing for this sport.<<<<<<<<<
Sport, does this mean every time I fly I am doing excercise?
This is good, "I'm sorry Honey, I can't mow the lawn this morning, I need
to go down to the "track" and "excercise""
You bet I will thank him.
;{)
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Heated air inlet location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
I had a guy in the shop yesterday that got recruited to help in the fist
engine start up of my -8A. Looking it over with a fine eye he questioned me
why I didn't take the cabin heat air off the oil cooler exit air? We'll
Makes sense to me. Maybe next time?
Just one more thought.
Noel
RV-8A going for inspection tomorrow
RV-10 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott
Diffenbaugh
Subject: RV-List: Heated air inlet location
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff@foothill.net>
There appear to be two choices for heater air inlet location - left front
baffle floor or right rear baffle bulkhead. I would prefer to locate it on
the right rear for simplicity, but am wondering if anyone can correlate
cylinder # 3 typically running hot (summertime) with right rear location, or
high oil temps (left rear baffle mounted oil cooler) with left front inlet
location? I have the standard Vans set up with right mounted muff and
bypass valve on firewall. Any other pros and cons would be appreciated.
Scott RV7A 80% complete
Scott Diffenbaugh
diff@foothill.net
Message 16
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| Subject: | Heated air inlet location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> I had a guy in the shop yesterday that got recruited to help
> in the fist engine start up of my -8A. Looking it over with a
> fine eye he questioned me why I didn't take the cabin heat
> air off the oil cooler exit air? We'll Makes sense to me.
> Maybe next time?
>
> Just one more thought.
>
> Noel
>
> RV-8A going for inspection tomorrow
There is a new, unflown, 7A here that does just that. The oil cooler is
mounted on the baffle, and a 2" scat runs from the exit of the cooler to
the muff heater, then to the firewall heater box. My money says the oil
will run too hot in the summer, with the outlet restriction that the
heater stuff presents. We'll stay tuned and I'll report back this
summer.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 442 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 17
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"'Doug Medema'"@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Doug,
Couple of comments,
If its the welsh plug in the front, make sure you install it concave out
then flatten it, but before you do this make sure the aft plug has a hole in
it, or it is removed. Full engine oil pressure will move oil out of the
front plug, and has been known to move the plug itself out.
RE the garlock (lip) seal, lycoming has used two methods for retaining this,
one had a 1/16" ridge on the outer perimeter face of the seal that fits into
a groove cut in the case. The other method was two plates that bolted on to
the front of the case. Many cases still have the bosses for the bolt holes
used to attach the plate, but they are cut with the groove for the other
type instead of having the bolt holes cut. Additionally many engine gasket
kits include both types of seals but they shouldn't be swapped.
I also recommend you use the uncut (full circle) type of seal even though
its a bitch to get over the flange. Lots of tape on the flange, two well
polished pry bars and soak the seal in some boiling water for a good 3/5
minutes. Once its over the flange let it recover from the pucker for a few
minutes before getting the spring back in it and inserting it.
Also make sure your crankshaft has no anomallies on the sealing area. Crocus
cloth to fix, if that won't fix it, then yank the crank and have it done
right.
On several engines, including mine, I have taken the time to drill out and
tap the holes to bolt on the retainer plates, as this seems to be the most
secure way to keep that seal in there. But these bolts must be secured and
the prop bolts must clear them.
The other thing is to make sure your case vent is working and ram air is not
pressurizing the case.
RE sealers, neither of these should be glued in, but a non-hardening sealer
should be used to seal them.
And finally, since you are in there make sure you take the time to clean,
inspect and sign off the 5 year lyc crankshaft AD. There's nothing that says
you can't do it early.
W
One additional note, if you can get to them, make sure the front case 3/8"
front bearing bolts through the case are properly tight, I have seen one
instance where the leak was from the split, but came out right at the edge
of the garlock seal.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Heated air inlet location |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 2/24/04 12:23:51 PM Central Standard Time,
noel@blueskyaviation.net writes:
> why I didn't take the cabin heat air off the oil cooler exit air?
This has come up on the list a few times over the last several years. Seems
that it works OK until it gets cold outside- also consider that you'll want
that heat to stay in the oil if it's really cold outside to keep the H2O out of
it... Taking the heat out of the exhaust pipes is free- it even reduces back
pressure from the dramatic cooling ot the exhaust gasses before they exit the
pipe, resulting in better cylinder scavenging, more power, more speed, less
fuel burn, more(aaaaaarrrrrrghhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!)
OK, so I'm exxagerating a little, but the first part is in the archives...
8-)
Mark Phillips
Message 19
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"'RV-List Digest Server'"@matronics.com
| Subject: | RE: Crank plug (from RV-list) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Well,
I'm thinking I could have said this semantically better, or at least
accurately.
The center of the disc shape should be more forward then the rim until
flattened.
Or, the inside of the cup shape faces rearwards. Unless of course the engine
is in a Long-Ez.
Which is actually convex side facing fwd. duh. And is what I was thinking in
spite of my finger's desire to type something different.
The plug is a welsh plug which is desgined to be shaped into place. This
causes the retention to occur from the swelling action of the plug causing
an interference fit.
Generally a flat dowel about 95% of the plug's diameter is used to install
it.
Cast engine blocks use them a lot, but they are often called freeze plugs,
and have a flange, like the rear Lyc crankshaft plug does.
W
-----Original Message-----
From: Fiveonepw@aol.com [mailto:Fiveonepw@aol.com]
Subject: Crank plug (from RV-list)
Howdy Wheeler-
re: "If its the welsh plug in the front, make sure you install it concave
out
then flatten it"
I've been on this list for quite a while and it always seems you know what
you're talking about, but on this thing my ignorance is really bugging me-
I'd never heard of the "flatten out the plug" deal until it came up on the
list a month ago or so and have asked several homebuilders and even a couple
of A&Ps here about it and I have gotten mostly blank stares... The plug in
my crank (E3D) has the dome, facing forward, and is obviously not
"flattened". The crank was yellow-tagged and the engine assembled by an
A&P. I can't recall ever seeing anything about this in the Lycoming
literature either. Is this one of those dark secrets that only members of
the brotherhood of the inner sanctum of Lyc privy to?
Thanks for any info- I'm getting a little nervous about my plug!
Mark
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
A friend just experienced a failure I haven't seen on the list. After preheating
his RV8 with a torpedo heater directed through the cowl exit ramp, his mixture
control froze solid. It turns out that the control cables Vans supplies for
throttle, mixture, and prop contain something inside that melts then jams the
cable when it cools. I don't know the critical temperature, but it occurred
to me to wonder if others had experienced this who might have a better handle
on how hot those cables can get before they start melting. I'm also wondering
if the aftermath of an in flight fire that you blow/starve out might leave
you in the air with jammed controls. Any thoughts?
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 21
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"'RV-List Digest Server'"@matronics.com
| Subject: | RE: Crank plug (from RV-list) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To answer your second question, yes lycoming data does not seem to indiacte
that it should be flattened, they just use the term install in each case. I
guess you should magically know this. I have been trying to recollect where
I learned it, but its been to many years???
But installing Welsh Plug means to flatten it some. Lycoming officially
calls it an "expansion plug" so they must assume this is all you need to
know to get it.
The fact that yours is still neatly dome shaped probably means that they
used the Lycoming tool which doesn't really flatten it completely, but does
flatten/swell it some. It takes very little distortion to get it to be
tight. This device is NOT meant to hold pressure other than case pressure
since it has no flanged edges, it just needs to stay in place and hold the
sealer in place so the oil goes the other way.
W
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
Any pictures available for the installation? The piper blade seems like a
pretty good idea. Has anyone used something like the 172 heated
pitot? That seems to be very similar to the Gretz design. Do most folk
agree that near the wingtip is acceptable when putting heated pitot on RV
6A that does not currently have one? Thanks.
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Swales contractor to the
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mail to: <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Does the static air kit for the -7 still use the little black T with 4
"barbs" on each of the 3 ends? With instructions to put a short piece (abt
1") of the 1/4" OD tubing (milky white semi-transparent) on the 2 ends to
receive the smaller 3/16" OD "fish tank" clear tubing that comes from each
static port?
That is what was provided in the -6 kit - and the ends of the 1/4" OD tubing
would split after 2 or 3 days of being on the cheap T.
I replaced the cheap T with a Parker (as in Parker Hannifin) black plastic
(poly) T, that the 1/4" OD tubing would slip into and then tighten down the
"cap" to make a tight connection. P/N P4TU4, $2.45, or Van's could buy for
$1.75 each in a lot of 1000 for shipping with kits.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
> I'm looking at the installation instructions for the static air system.
The
> Static Air kit.doc and it looks like this is installed on the bulkhead
just
> aft of the baggage compartment bulkhead. However after looking at some
> installs on other builders web sites it appears to be on the bulkhead near
> the seat beat anchor, just below the anchors for the static ports.
>
> Is the correct bulkhead the one nearest the seatbelt anchors? It looks
like
> the document clearly has it on the one forward of that bulkhead.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Karie Daniel
> Sammamish, WA.
> RV-7A In Progress!
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: PArita@aol.com
Who do I need to contact for info. My email address is:
parita@aol.com
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Oil on the Windscreen!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Jeff Point wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
>Concave, convex, maybe it's been too long since high school geometry.
>You are correct. What I meant was that the rounded part should face the
>front, as you describe.
>
>Jeff
>
I use this 'crutch' for concave Vs Convex. A cave is a hole in the
mountain ...... so concave and the back of the cave are the same. That
leaves convex. It's the opposite of concave! ;-)
Linn
do not archive
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: Flyguy6a@aol.com
Group...
If anyone needs a quick oil change valve I have one on eBay www.ebay.com item
# is 2462519532 .
I got it from Superior, it is TSO'd and brand new, reserve is low. In most
cases oil can be drained without removing cowling, and no mess.
Do not archive.
Jack Lucas
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Albuquerque Listers? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
> Are there any listers in the Albuquerque area?
A couple monitor the list. Probably 20+ builders in the area.
> My wife and I are going to
> be there this coming Friday afternoon through Sunday afternoon.
Bad timing. Friday through Sunday I'm off to Mojave.
Jim Daniels
do not archive
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: FrozenControls |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Dave,
That's encouraging! This is really good information. It sounds like the
inner jacket must be nylon. I had to pay for 3 prop cables to get the right one,
but that's another story. What I mean is that I have 2 extra cables to do
some testing on, if it becomes necessary.
To get information on the cables, go directly to ACS products in Arizona.
They were spun off from Aircraft Spruce, and they are where Van's and A/C Spruce
get the cables. If you need cables, like a different length prop cable
(front mounted governor) go directly to ACS Products for it. You can email me
and
I'll look up the info for you. (This is the voice of experience!)
Dan RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 2/24/04 3:42:54 PM US Eastern Standard Time, dreel@cox.net
writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> A friend just experienced a failure I haven't seen on the list. After
> preheating his RV8 with a torpedo heater directed through the cowl exit ramp,
his
> mixture control froze solid. It turns out that the control cables Vans
> supplies for throttle, mixture, and prop contain something inside that melts
then
> jams the cable when it cools. I don't know the critical temperature, but it
> occurred to me to wonder if others had experienced this who might have a
> better handle on how hot those cables can get before they start melting. I'm
> also wondering if the aftermath of an in flight fire that you blow/starve out
> might leave you in the air with jammed controls. Any thoughts?
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
Message 29
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RV-List <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
| Subject: | FWF delivery time? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
How is it taking to get the FWF kit after you order it ? Trying to
figure out when to order?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> That's encouraging! This is really good information. It
> sounds like the
> inner jacket must be nylon. I had to pay for 3 prop cables
> to get the right one,
> but that's another story. What I mean is that I have 2 extra
> cables to do
> some testing on, if it becomes necessary.
If it is nylon, the melting temps are around 400F. The temps coming out
of one of those torpedo heaters must be something above 1300F, since the
steel glows red. My advice would be to not use one of those blow
torches to pre heat an airplane.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 442 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
While installing the phillips screws into the various
nutplates, I got to asking myself if there are aviation
quality Torx screws that could be used instead. Does
anyone know of a supplier for Torx or at a minimum some
other type of hex head screw that won't slip off?
I even used Torx on my workbenches - they are great.
Thanks,
Mickey
PS: In case you don't know what the heck I'm talking
about, here is a photo:
http://rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=workshop&id=DSCN7925
or in case that wraps on your screen:
http://www.rv8.ch/albums/workshop/DSCN7925.jpg
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Calhoun" <roncal@earthlink.net>
Mickey, these were made especially for the rv list. The first batch
heads twisted off, but they replaced all orders with new ones with
smaller torx. And will probably use then everywhere else
when I paint.
You can go direct to them at
http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSCFCMXS.cfm
They are listed as 6 lobe drive screws, but are Torx. I suspect it has
something to do with avoiding royalty payments for using the trademarked
name "Torx".
Ron Calhoun
RV-4
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RV-List: Screws
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
While installing the phillips screws into the various nutplates, I got
to asking myself if there are aviation quality Torx screws that could be
used instead. Does anyone know of a supplier for Torx or at a minimum
some other type of hex head screw that won't slip off?
I even used Torx on my workbenches - they are great.
Thanks,
Mickey
PS: In case you don't know what the heck I'm talking
about, here is a photo:
http://rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=workshop&id=DSCN7925
or in case that wraps on your screen:
http://www.rv8.ch/albums/workshop/DSCN7925.jpg
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
If you want flat head:
http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSCFCMXS.cfm
Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
Mickey Coggins wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>Hi,
>
>While installing the phillips screws into the various
>nutplates, I got to asking myself if there are aviation
>quality Torx screws that could be used instead. Does
>anyone know of a supplier for Torx or at a minimum some
>other type of hex head screw that won't slip off?
>
>I even used Torx on my workbenches - they are great.
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>PS: In case you don't know what the heck I'm talking
>about, here is a photo:
>
>http://rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=workshop&id=DSCN7925
>
>or in case that wraps on your screen:
>
>http://www.rv8.ch/albums/workshop/DSCN7925.jpg
>
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
>
>
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
www.microfasteners.com
Best wishes,
Mark
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: FrozenControls |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Alex,
That sounds like pretty good advice! Even a heat lamp, like a 250 watt red
colored bulb, puts out too much temperature to use to preheat with. Those red
silicone pads are probably a pretty good investment.
Dan RV7-A (almost finished)
In a message dated 2/24/04 6:27:04 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
alexpeterson@earthlink.net writes:
>
> If it is nylon, the melting temps are around 400F. The temps coming out
> of one of those torpedo heaters must be something above 1300F, since the
> steel glows red. My advice would be to not use one of those blow
> torches to pre heat an airplane.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 442 hours
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Melts Tubing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
> Any pictures available for the installation? The piper blade seems like a
> pretty good idea. Has anyone used something like the 172 heated
> pitot? That seems to be very similar to the Gretz design. Do most folk
> agree that near the wingtip is acceptable when putting heated pitot on RV
> 6A that does not currently have one? Thanks.
>
> Matthew M. Jurotich
An A&P installed his near the wingtip of his 6A and is counseling everyone
around here not to. There is a possibility of scraping the pitot tube on a
bad landing with it out there. I installed mine just outboard of the left
access hole. It is easy to get to and keeps it away from the tip.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 Finish Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
sandpaper, Sandpaper, SANDPAPER! 8-)
I just recently tried a new flavor of paper from Norton called "3X High
Performance." I bought it from Home Depot and paid at least twice as much
as el cheapo paper.
But I gotta say that it works wonders. It really works as advertised and
doesn't load or clog up. Clap it and it's clear. It's almost too good
'cause it's hard to tell when it's appropriate to toss it. From now on I'm
going to overpay for the easier time. Too bad I learned this at the end of
the project...
You might also think about having Van's ship you an extra cutting disc that
they sell for cutting the canopy and stuff. They were cheap if I recall.
If you don't already have epoxy, fiberglass, and filler stuff (i.e.
microbaloons, flox, etc.)...grab some West System 105/205 epoxy -- Spruce
sells kits, which include resin & hardener. For like 10 bucks you can buy
the ratio pumps. The canard guys will laugh at you for using West System,
but screw 'em, it's so easy and works great.
Have fun,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <benandginny@insightbb.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV7 Finish Kit
> --> RV-List message posted by: <benandginny@insightbb.com>
>
> I just spoke with Vans today and my RV7 finish kit is ready to ship.
10 weeks from the time I ordered. (Not the 16 weeks as advertised). I would
like some info on what tools, products, and just nice things to have, that I
can order now to be ready to go when this kit arrives. Specifically items
for the canopy, fiberglass work etc.
>
> Ben Cunningham
> RV7
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Ozzies, poms and yanks (very off-list) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
Ok....As a Canadian I'll bite....I'd like to hear the term some other people
use....maybe we can get an interesting flame war going!!!!
Do not archive
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of j1j2h3@juno.com
Subject: RV-List: Ozzies, poms and yanks (very off-list)
--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
What you don't realize is that ozzies and poms call anybody west of
Bermuda a Yank. And for you ozzies and poms, those here in the US that
live south of the Mason-Dixon line call anybody that lives north of it a
Yank, or Yankee. But for most of those north of it, only those that
live in the north-east are Yankees. But for those, only those in Maine,
Connecticut and Vermont are Yankees. But if you get further north than
that , you're a Canadian (some people use another term, but I won't
repeat it.)
Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin,
Tennessee) (so I'm an ex-Yankee, or maybe a carpetbagger)
Do not archive
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
L. R. B., U. C. I B. an ex-CAF Col. from SOUTHern Calif. an ya'll calls
me a
"Yank". 8*) KABONG (GBA) Just for fun. Do Not Archive
Translation: Well I'll be, you see I am a former member of the
Confederate
Air Force who now lives in Apple Valley, California with a pick-up truck
and
a short barrelled 12 ga. who happened to be born in Ohio but considers
himself to be one of these red neck good ole boys.
Message 39
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--> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Heated air inlet location
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
I had a guy in the shop yesterday that got recruited to help in the fist
engine start up of my -8A. Looking it over with a fine eye he questioned me
why I didn't take the cabin heat air off the oil cooler exit air? We'll
Makes sense to me. Maybe next time?
Just one more thought.
Noel
RV-8A going for inspection tomorrow
RV-10 wings
-Have been using oil cooler exit air for cabin heat for years. Works great and
no CO worries.
Bill
RV-8 N48WD Tiger-Kat
Message 40
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| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy Latches |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
RV-8 Builders,
Because people kept requesting them after I ran out, I had to produce another batch
of those popular canopy latches. For pictures, go to:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/rv8-latch.html
Price is still $25 + $2 for S&H
Bill Davis RV-8 N48WD Tiger-Kat
Do not archive
Message 41
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--> RV-List message posted by: Phat Phil <phugoid@comcast.net>
If you want pan head:
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=machine&FT_210=51189&FT_101=101210=51189;101=101
Richard Tasker wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
>
>If you want flat head:
>
>http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSCFCMXS.cfm
>
>Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
>
>Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>>
>>Hi,
>>
>>While installing the phillips screws into the various
>>nutplates, I got to asking myself if there are aviation
>>quality Torx screws that could be used instead. Does
>>anyone know of a supplier for Torx or at a minimum some
>>other type of hex head screw that won't slip off?
>>
>>I even used Torx on my workbenches - they are great.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Mickey
>>
>>PS: In case you don't know what the heck I'm talking
>>about, here is a photo:
>>
>>http://rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=workshop&id=DSCN7925
>>
>>or in case that wraps on your screen:
>>
>>http://www.rv8.ch/albums/workshop/DSCN7925.jpg
>>
>>
>>--
>>Mickey Coggins
>>http://www.rv8.ch/
>>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 42
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Mickey,
Microfasteners.com but you have to ask for the 100 degree heads. I have them
for my wing tips and wing fairings.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: Screws
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Hi,
>
> While installing the phillips screws into the various
> nutplates, I got to asking myself if there are aviation
> quality Torx screws that could be used instead. Does
> anyone know of a supplier for Torx or at a minimum some
> other type of hex head screw that won't slip off?
>
> I even used Torx on my workbenches - they are great.
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
> PS: In case you don't know what the heck I'm talking
> about, here is a photo:
>
> http://rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=workshop&id=DSCN7925
>
> or in case that wraps on your screen:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/albums/workshop/DSCN7925.jpg
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Message 43
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--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
With heat from the oil cooler you will NOT get heat when you throttle back
for a long descent from altitude. The max. oil cooler temp is below 400
degrees;whereas the exhaust temp. is around 900 - 1400 degrees. The higher temp.
is
required for any COLD day or altitude.
Tried it and it didn't work !!
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:FWF Delivery Time |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Go to vansaircraft.com or phone 503-678-6545 .
Bob Olds
Charleston,Arkansas
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: FrozenControls |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
A division of the company that I works for makes aircraft cables. You can
see them and email questions at:
http://cablecraft.com/Cablecraft/Gen_Air/
We are working on a "kit cable" web site now. From there you will be able to
custom order the length and type of cable you need.
Don Mack
don@dmack.net
www.dmack.net
----- Original Message -----
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> Dave,
>
> That's encouraging! This is really good information. It sounds like the
> inner jacket must be nylon. I had to pay for 3 prop cables to get the
right one,
> but that's another story. What I mean is that I have 2 extra cables to do
> some testing on, if it becomes necessary.
>
> To get information on the cables, go directly to ACS products in Arizona.
> They were spun off from Aircraft Spruce, and they are where Van's and A/C
Spruce
> get the cables. If you need cables, like a different length prop cable
> (front mounted governor) go directly to ACS Products for it. You can
email me and
> I'll look up the info for you. (This is the voice of experience!)
>
> Dan RV-7A (almost done)
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Condition Inspection Checklist |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
Please I'm looking for a Condition Inspection Checklist for my first annual.
I've checked in the archives. The email addresses for the RVr's offering the checklist
were no longer valid. And I couldn't find the checklist in Kevin Horton's
website.
I would appreciate it if someone could point me to a Checklist source.
Thanks
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 105 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 01/28/04 |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4WGH@aol.com
Message 48
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| Subject: | Opinions on new Ray Allen stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Listers,
I asked this question a few months ago, but got no replies. Has anyone installed
the new G300 series of stick grips on their RV? How do you like the hat switch
for controlling the electric trim? These look nice, but I'd like to hear an
opinion from someone who owns one.
TIA
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A wiring
Boca Raton, Fl.
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:FWF Delivery Time |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Oldsfolks@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
>Go to vansaircraft.com or phone 503-678-6545 .
>
> Bob Olds
>Charleston,Arkansas
>
>
vansaircraft.com does not say and only their answering machine picks up
after they are closed :-)
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 50
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
I have used cable craft before, great service.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don Mack
Subject: Re: RV-List: FrozenControls
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
A division of the company that I works for makes aircraft cables. You can
see them and email questions at:
http://cablecraft.com/Cablecraft/Gen_Air/
We are working on a "kit cable" web site now. From there you will be able to
custom order the length and type of cable you need.
Don Mack
don@dmack.net
www.dmack.net
----- Original Message -----
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> Dave,
>
> That's encouraging! This is really good information. It sounds like the
> inner jacket must be nylon. I had to pay for 3 prop cables to get the
right one,
> but that's another story. What I mean is that I have 2 extra cables to do
> some testing on, if it becomes necessary.
>
> To get information on the cables, go directly to ACS products in Arizona.
> They were spun off from Aircraft Spruce, and they are where Van's and A/C
Spruce
> get the cables. If you need cables, like a different length prop cable
> (front mounted governor) go directly to ACS Products for it. You can
email me and
> I'll look up the info for you. (This is the voice of experience!)
>
> Dan RV-7A (almost done)
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | FWF delivery time? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Immediate shipment.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
> Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 6:10 PM
> To: RV7and7A; RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: FWF delivery time?
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
> How is it taking to get the FWF kit after you order it ? Trying to
> figure out when to order?
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
Message 52
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| Subject: | Sun 'n Fun Rotary Discussion |
--> RV-List message posted by: "jgburns" <jgburns@comcast.net>
Please come by the rotary engine forum tent at Sun 'n Fun 2004 for discussion and
to meet other rotary enthusiasts.
More info on this webpage:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jgburns/Engine/Sun-n-fun-rotary.html
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Thanks for all of the replies. As noticed by several other builders, drawing
#28 does point this out clearly to be the more aft bulkhead (closest to the
seatbelt anchor). This doesn't really match up to the unclear one page
document that is included with the static kit but the drawing on the plans
page would be correct. It actually calls it the "suggested" placement for
the static port. You could assume and most probably know already that it
should work in either place though.
Following Vans suggestion and it really seems more of a likely place anyway,
I'll be installing it there. I would say that it would be nice to have a
little blurb on the static kit instructions that references drawing 28 but
that would really be whining.......wouldn't it? :-)
Thanks again everyone,
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA
RV-7A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Franz Fux" <franz@lastfrontierheli.com>
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Franz Fux" <franz@lastfrontierheli.com>
>
> Just look at drawing # 28, detail E,
> Franz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Taylor
> To: rv7-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: Installing the Static Air System
>
>
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylor@msxi.com>
>
> Karie,
>
> Let us know what Van's says after speaking to them. I already fitted my
> ports, and (like an idiot) opted for the location that came with the
> kit. Looking back and reading these posts, I've a feeling I have messed
> up.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mark Taylor
> CAD Technical Specialist
> (313) 203-4714
>
> >>> karie4@comcast.net 02/23/04 11:26PM >>>
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
> I'm looking at the installation instructions for the static air system.
> The Static Air kit.doc and it looks like this is installed on the
> bulkhead just aft of the baggage compartment bulkhead. However after
> looking at some installs on other builders web sites it appears to the
> on the bulkhead near the seat beat anchor, just below the anchors for
> the static ports.
>
> Is the correct bulkhead the one nearest the seatbelt anchors? It looks
> like the document clearly has it on the one forward of that bulkhead.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Karie Daniel
> Sammamish, WA.
> RV-7A In Progress!
>
>
> ---
> Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>
> ---
>
>
Message 54
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Oldenburg" <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
I start dimpling the Horizontal Stab left side skin tonight. The first
few dimples went fine, but then the male part of the die must of slipped
out of the skin between blows with the mallet.
You can see the result here:
http://www.rv.oldsack.com/weblog.php?id=C0_1_1
I'm really sick about this and I'm not quite sure what to do. I guess I
need to order a new skin from Vans. This is not the first screw up I've
had and I'm sure it is not the last.
Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Fred
Frederick W. Oldenburg Jr.
RV-7A Standard Kit - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: Ruined HS Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Move up to a number four rivet or the next size. Then put another oversize
rivet at the same place on the other side. Then when someone asks, you say
"Didn't you get the Service Bulletin?" :-)
Of course, I never made any mistakes.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Oldenburg" <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Ruined HS Skin
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Oldenburg" <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>
> I start dimpling the Horizontal Stab left side skin tonight. The first
> few dimples went fine, but then the male part of the die must of slipped
> out of the skin between blows with the mallet.
>
> You can see the result here:
> http://www.rv.oldsack.com/weblog.php?id=C0_1_1
>
> I'm really sick about this and I'm not quite sure what to do. I guess I
> need to order a new skin from Vans. This is not the first screw up I've
> had and I'm sure it is not the last.
>
> Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
>
> Frederick W. Oldenburg Jr.
> RV-7A Standard Kit - Empennage
> http://www.rv.oldsack.com
>
>
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: Ruined HS Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux@bendnet.com>
Drill it out to 1/8 oops flush rivet? What do you think?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Oldenburg" <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Ruined HS Skin
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Oldenburg" <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>
> I start dimpling the Horizontal Stab left side skin tonight. The first
> few dimples went fine, but then the male part of the die must of slipped
> out of the skin between blows with the mallet.
>
> You can see the result here:
> http://www.rv.oldsack.com/weblog.php?id=C0_1_1
>
> I'm really sick about this and I'm not quite sure what to do. I guess I
> need to order a new skin from Vans. This is not the first screw up I've
> had and I'm sure it is not the last.
>
> Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
>
> Frederick W. Oldenburg Jr.
> RV-7A Standard Kit - Empennage
> http://www.rv.oldsack.com
>
>
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: Heated air inlet location |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 2/24/2004 10:23:51 AM Pacific Standard Time,
noel@blueskyaviation.net writes:
I had a guy in the shop yesterday that got recruited to help in the fist
engine start up of my -8A. Looking it over with a fine eye he questioned me
why I didn't take the cabin heat air off the oil cooler exit air?
Well, because you won't have any when things get really cold and you want to
keep the heat in the oil. I wouldn't want to freeze to death on one of those
cold winter days (and I'm only talking about California, forget any other
locale) in an attempt to keep the oil temp above 170 deg F by closing the oil
cooler door.
Believe me the waste heat from the exhaust pipe is the best way to go.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 682 hrs)
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: Condition Inspection Checklist |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Hey Gabe...
Here's the one I use... You can modify it as you see fit...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Condition Inspection Checklist
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
Please I'm looking for a Condition Inspection Checklist for my first annual.
I've checked in the archives. The email addresses for the RVr's offering the
checklist were no longer valid. And I couldn't find the checklist in Kevin
Horton's website.
I would appreciate it if someone could point me to a Checklist source.
Thanks
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 105 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
Message 59
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Brett Morawski" <brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
I did the same thing to one hole on my HS skin and decided it's not worth
worrying about. Smoothed out the edges and continued on. A slight loss of
strength around one rivet hole from the missing material is completely
insignificant. No worse than having one poorly driven rivet get past you.
I couldn't see crack propagation from that missplaced hole being an issue
either since there's thousands of holes in these planes already and Van's
solution to stopping cracks in rudder & elevator skins is to drill another
hole . . .
Brett Morawski
Toledo, OH
RV-8a, wings
I start dimpling the Horizontal Stab left side skin tonight. The first
few dimples went fine, but then the male part of the die must of slipped
out of the skin between blows with the mallet.
You can see the result here:
http://www.rv.oldsack.com/weblog.php?id=C0_1_1
I'm really sick about this and I'm not quite sure what to do. I guess I
need to order a new skin from Vans. This is not the first screw up I've
had and I'm sure it is not the last.
Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Fred
Frederick W. Oldenburg Jr.
RV-7A Standard Kit - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
Message 60
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| Subject: | Re: Ruined HS Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Fred,
Good advice there from Tom. I will add an AD-5 rivet is pretty hefty to make a
shop head with the small rivet gun we use. I substituted a -5 (5/32 diameter)
for a -4 in the HS skeleton (.032) and didn't like how it "worked" the area
around the rivet. I wish I had used an "A" rivet (softer material) that would
mushroom easier. I'm not going to lose any sleep over it, however. @#$% happens.
--Greg
Tom Gummo <T.gummo@verizon.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo"
Move up to a number four rivet or the next size. Then put another oversize
rivet at the same place on the other side. Then when someone asks, you say
"Didn't you get the Service Bulletin?" :-)
Of course, I never made any mistakes.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Oldenburg"
Subject: RV-List: Ruined HS Skin
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Oldenburg"
>
> I start dimpling the Horizontal Stab left side skin tonight. The first
> few dimples went fine, but then the male part of the die must of slipped
> out of the skin between blows with the mallet.
>
> You can see the result here:
> http://www.rv.oldsack.com/weblog.php?id=C0_1_1
>
> I'm really sick about this and I'm not quite sure what to do. I guess I
> need to order a new skin from Vans. This is not the first screw up I've
> had and I'm sure it is not the last.
>
> Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
>
> Frederick W. Oldenburg Jr.
> RV-7A Standard Kit - Empennage
> http://www.rv.oldsack.com
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 61
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--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
This list is great - thanks a lot for the pointers. I'll
be buying both the flat heads and the pan heads, and then,
no more stripped phillips heads!
Mickey
At 03:02 25-02-04, Phat Phil wrote:
>If you want pan head:
>
>http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=machine&FT_210=51189&FT_101=101210=51189;101=101
>
>
>>If you want flat head:
>>
>>http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSCFCMXS.cfm
>>
>>Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
do not archive
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
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