Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:06 AM - Rotaries Again (David Kirby)
2. 02:36 AM - a titanium Ti-down note (Randy Simpson)
3. 04:03 AM - Re: Condition Inspection Checklist (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
4. 04:50 AM - Re: a titanium Ti-down note (Charles Rowbotham)
5. 05:01 AM - Re: Screws (LarryRobertHelming)
6. 05:27 AM - Re: Rotaries Again (Ed Anderson)
7. 06:03 AM - Re: Rotaries Again (Alex Peterson)
8. 06:23 AM - Re: Condition Inspection Checklist (Matthew Brandes)
9. 06:29 AM - Re: Ruined HS Skin (Scott Bilinski)
10. 06:55 AM - Re: Ruined HS Skin (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
11. 07:04 AM - Re: RV-8 Canopy Latches (Tailgummer@aol.com)
12. 07:07 AM - Re: Screws (Cy Galley)
13. 07:16 AM - Re: RV-8 Canopy Latches (Sam Buchanan)
14. 07:46 AM - New tires (Jason Sneed)
15. 07:47 AM - Re: Screws (Lockamy, Jack L)
16. 07:58 AM - Re: Condition Inspection Checklist (Bill VonDane)
17. 08:09 AM - broken and missing 0-ring (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
18. 08:15 AM - Re: a titanium Ti-down note (Laird Owens)
19. 08:25 AM - Re: New tires (Doug Weiler)
20. 08:31 AM - Re: New tires (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
21. 08:34 AM - Re: Ruined HS Skin (BRUCE GRAY)
22. 08:44 AM - broke a dimple die (Adam Boggs)
23. 08:59 AM - Re: broke a dimple die (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
24. 09:10 AM - Re: broke a dimple die (Jeff Orear)
25. 09:13 AM - Re: Screws (Albert Gardner)
26. 09:30 AM - Re: broke a dimple die (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
27. 09:45 AM - Re: broke a dimple die (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
28. 10:09 AM - Re: broke a dimple die (Scott Bilinski)
29. 10:36 AM - Re: a titanium Ti-down note (HCRV6@aol.com)
30. 10:45 AM - Re: broke a dimple die (HCRV6@aol.com)
31. 10:52 AM - Re: broke a dimple die (Jeff Orear)
32. 10:53 AM - Re: broke a dimple die (HCRV6@aol.com)
33. 10:54 AM - Re: Rotaries Again (Finn Lassen)
34. 11:25 AM - Re: broke a dimple die (Skylor Piper)
35. 12:25 PM - Wing Rib Bolts (Bruce Meacham)
36. 12:26 PM - Tenth Annual Twin Cities RV Fly In (Alex Peterson)
37. 12:59 PM - Re: broke a dimple die (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG))
38. 02:36 PM - Re: RV7 Finish Kit (Brian Kraut)
39. 03:18 PM - Re: Heated air inlet location (Ken Beene)
40. 03:27 PM - Re: broke a dimple die (Allen Fulmer)
41. 03:53 PM - Re: Quick Oil Drain (BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks))
42. 04:01 PM - Re: Rotaries Again (Tracy Crook)
43. 04:09 PM - Re: Re: broke a dimple die (Jeff Orear)
44. 04:19 PM - Re: FrozenControls (czechsix@juno.com)
45. 04:37 PM - Reno Box Seating (Mike Comeaux)
46. 05:19 PM - Re: Opinions on new Ray Allen stick grips (Jim and Bev Cone)
47. 05:25 PM - Re: Ruined HS Skin (Jim and Bev Cone)
48. 05:59 PM - Re: Quick Oil Drain (David Taylor)
49. 06:14 PM - Re: a titanium Ti-down note (Paul Besing)
50. 06:57 PM - Re: turn and bank power consumption (Larry Bowen)
51. 06:59 PM - Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. (Sam Buchanan)
52. 07:02 PM - Re: RV-8 Canopy Latches (William Davis)
53. 07:49 PM - Splatter paint for the interior (Don Mack)
54. 08:14 PM - Re: Ruined HS Skin (David Carter)
55. 09:16 PM - GRT EFIS & Engine Monitor (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
56. 09:40 PM - Re: GRT EFIS & Engine Monitor (David Schaefer)
57. 11:09 PM - Re: broke a dimple die (HCRV6@aol.com)
58. 11:49 PM - Re: GRT EFIS & Engine Monitor (Gregory Young)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Kirby" <davewendi@earthlink.net>
I read somewhere that the new Renesis rotary
has 247 HP but only 164 LB/FT of torque. What does this mean for us? Would this
cause the engine to be sluggish? May not be good in a go around situation?
Anybody have any
thoughts? Never looked to see what kind of torque a Lycoming
has. Anyone know?
Message 2
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| Subject: | a titanium Ti-down note |
--> RV-List message posted by: Randy Simpson <airtime@proaxis.com>
Hi again RV builders and flyers,
It's been a couple of years since I've posted a note here about my titanium
Ti-downs, so I hope I'm not over-doing it, spamwise. If you're not
interested in titanium Ti-downs or what I've been up to lately, delete this
now.
I've gotten some emails recently asking if I'm still making and selling the
Ti-downs, so I'd like to let everyone here know I'm still doing it. RV
builders and flyers have been my main customers, by far.
I've been selling the Ti-downs since 1998, and have learned during that
time that my business is VERY seasonal, and for the previous two winters
(since I quit my day job at the titanium plant), I've had to go to work for
a flying buddy's business, installing computer and phone systems in Fred
Meyer stores, to make ends meet, moneywise.
This winter, I've been busy setting up a homesite and moving to my 108 acre
forrest, and haven't worked on any outside job, having enough $$ buffer to
make it this far. Just as my money was running out, the orders are starting
to trickle in again *phew* The move is saving me about $500/month, and I'm
enjoying living here more...a win win situation *smile*
There has been enough Ti-down kits sold for "word-of-mouth" orders to keep
me in business the past couple of years, without having to advertise any.
I've got to tell you, nothing satisfies me like seeing a word-of-mouth
order coming in. *smile*
Now the bad news...the $10 discount and free shipping I've always offered
this RV-List is going away. I was originally going to do this the first of
this year, but I've been busy with the big move, I haven't gotten around to
it yet. I've decided to keep the $10 discount and free shipping offer until
the first day of spring this year. That's about a month away from now.
There's been alot of "first flights" reported on this list (I've been
lurking quietly continiously this whole time), and I'm hoping this notice
will generate a few more orders.
I've been asked many times by Aircraft accessory dealers and distributors
about carrying my Ti-downs, but I've always said no, because I can't make
them for what they want to pay for the Ti-downs, in order to make the
profit they say they need. I just have trouble with them making more profit
than me, when it takes me a little over 2 hours to make each kit, and all
they have to do is take the order, and stick on a shipping label. I have
given in to one dealer, Rollison Airplane Company, Inc. and we've agreed to
a dealer price. It does require me to sell them at my List Price, without
free shipping. I'll have to wait and see how it works out. He and his
company go to all the big fly-in's, so that should help, saleswise.
OK, enough about Ti-downs.
I put this little ditty together tonite to show anyone interested in my new
"almost instant shop", and future runway project in the woods...
http://www.airtimemfg.com/homestead.htm
I'm pretty sure some of you will enjoy this little picture tour...
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
(now) Brownsville, Oregon
Carrera ultralight flying, aircamping adventurer
titanium Ti-down maker
Inventor, Supersecret UL project engineer
http://www.airtimemfg.com
phone (cell) 541-730-5121
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Condition Inspection Checklist |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
On my downloads page.
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gabe A Ferrer
Subject: RV-List: Condition Inspection Checklist
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
Please I'm looking for a Condition Inspection Checklist for my first
annual.
I've checked in the archives. The email addresses for the RVr's offering
the checklist were no longer valid. And I couldn't find the checklist in
Kevin Horton's website.
I would appreciate it if someone could point me to a Checklist source.
Thanks
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 105 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
==
==
==
==
Message 4
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| Subject: | a titanium Ti-down note |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Hi Randy,
Glad to hear your still providing the best tie-downs.
Any word on when you will be offering Ti tie down RINGS - Sure would like
to ditch the heavy ones for (3) Ti rings.
Best wishes,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Randy Simpson <airtime@proaxis.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: a titanium Ti-down note
>Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 02:36:39 +0100
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Randy Simpson <airtime@proaxis.com>
>
>Hi again RV builders and flyers,
>
>It's been a couple of years since I've posted a note here about my titanium
>Ti-downs, so I hope I'm not over-doing it, spamwise. If you're not
>interested in titanium Ti-downs or what I've been up to lately, delete this
>now.
>
>I've gotten some emails recently asking if I'm still making and selling the
>Ti-downs, so I'd like to let everyone here know I'm still doing it. RV
>builders and flyers have been my main customers, by far.
>
>I've been selling the Ti-downs since 1998, and have learned during that
>time that my business is VERY seasonal, and for the previous two winters
>(since I quit my day job at the titanium plant), I've had to go to work for
>a flying buddy's business, installing computer and phone systems in Fred
>Meyer stores, to make ends meet, moneywise.
>
>
Stay informed on Election 2004 and the race to Super Tuesday.
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Interesting. I bought some about 18 months ago. How would anyone who
bought these before the change know if they got screws with the bad design
that the heads twist off of or the new improved ones. Is there a torque
range for testing their strength? I understand these screws are not
structural. And the threads are not rolled but cut in. Someone with
knowledge please correct any of this that is wrong.
I am sending this info to Microfasteners also
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
Firewall Forward
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Calhoun" <roncal@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Screws
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Calhoun" <roncal@earthlink.net>
>
> Mickey, these were made especially for the rv list. The first batch
> heads twisted off, but they replaced all orders with new ones with
> smaller torx. And will probably use then everywhere else
> when I paint.
> You can go direct to them at
> http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSCFCMXS.cfm
>
> They are listed as 6 lobe drive screws, but are Torx. I suspect it has
> something to do with avoiding royalty payments for using the trademarked
> name "Torx".
>
> Ron Calhoun
> RV-4
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Screws
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Hi,
>
> While installing the phillips screws into the various nutplates, I got
> to asking myself if there are aviation quality Torx screws that could be
> used instead. Does anyone know of a supplier for Torx or at a minimum
> some other type of hex head screw that won't slip off?
>
> I even used Torx on my workbenches - they are great.
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
> PS: In case you don't know what the heck I'm talking
> about, here is a photo:
>
> http://rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=workshop&id=DSCN7925
>
> or in case that wraps on your screen:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/albums/workshop/DSCN7925.jpg
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
> ==
> direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rotaries Again |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Kirby" <davewendi@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rotaries Again
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Kirby" <davewendi@earthlink.net>
>
> I read somewhere that the new Renesis rotary
> has 247 HP but only 164 LB/FT of torque. What does this mean for us?
Would this cause the engine to be sluggish? May not be good in a go around
situation? Anybody have any
> thoughts? Never looked to see what kind of torque a Lycoming
> has. Anyone know?
>
David, I don't have the Renesis figures in front of me, but that sounds
reasonable as the Renesis makes that HP/Torque above 8000 rpm. For that
reason, you clearly need to reduce the engine speed for propeller
efficiency. The most common gear ratio used to do this on the older rotary
engines (with less rpm) was 2.17:1. The Renesis's higher rpm makes the use
of a 2.85:1 ratio more useful Since reducing rpm (Gearing Down or
Reducing) increases torque by the gear ratio used, you have in the first
case (2.17:1) and assuming the same engine rpm and torque in cases 2.17 *164
lb-ft = 355.8 lb-ft of torque for the prop. Using the 2.85 ratio gives
2.85*164 = 467 lb-ft of torque. So for RV application, torque will not be
an issue.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC 28104
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> I read somewhere that the new Renesis rotary
> has 247 HP but only 164 LB/FT of torque. What does this mean
> for us? Would this cause the engine to be sluggish? May not
> be good in a go around situation? Anybody have any thoughts?
> Never looked to see what kind of torque a Lycoming has. Anyone know?
Presumably, these numbers are for the engine's driveshaft output. The
engine rpm for the numbers you have above would have to be about 8000.
There would also be some loss in the reduction unit, but the torque at
the prop would be 8000 divided by the reduction ratio. If the prop was
run at 2700, for example, the torque at the prop would be something like
400 - 450 ft-lbs.
Lycomings are in the 300 to 350 ft-lb torque range, but they are direct
drive.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 442 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 8
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| Subject: | RE: Condition Inspection Checklist |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
Sometimes we forget that the EAA has a great set of resources in the members
only area.
Gabe, check out
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/operating/inspection.html for a
condition inspection checklist.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91
www.n523rv.com
> Time: 07:17:39 PM PST US
> From: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Condition Inspection Checklist
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
>
> Please I'm looking for a Condition Inspection Checklist for my first
annual.
>
> I've checked in the archives. The email addresses for the RVr's offering
the checklist were no longer valid. And I > > > > couldn't find the
checklist in Kevin Horton's website.
>
> I would appreciate it if someone could point me to a Checklist source.
>
> Thanks
>
> Gabe A Ferrer
> RV6 N2GX 105 hours
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Ruined HS Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Make the "whoops" dimple complete and just install a rivet, no one will
notice. Or you can install a rivet and cover it with filler. I can tell
you, this, will happen again!
At 09:27 PM 2/24/04 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Oldenburg" <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>
>I start dimpling the Horizontal Stab left side skin tonight. The first
>few dimples went fine, but then the male part of the die must of slipped
>out of the skin between blows with the mallet.
>
>You can see the result here:
>http://www.rv.oldsack.com/weblog.php?id=C0_1_1
>
>I'm really sick about this and I'm not quite sure what to do. I guess I
>need to order a new skin from Vans. This is not the first screw up I've
>had and I'm sure it is not the last.
>
>Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Fred
>
>Frederick W. Oldenburg Jr.
>RV-7A Standard Kit - Empennage
>http://www.rv.oldsack.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Ruined HS Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Hi Fred,
Its quite a shock when you first discover that you are not going to have a
perfect airplane. There are a few of those on mine too. Take everyone's
advice, deburr the hole, and move on. I have one hole out in the middle of the
skin! I just put a rivet in the hole so it looks like its supposed to be there.
That must be why Vans sent all those AD426AD3-3 rivets.
I'll probably get beat to death here, but I have found that ONE hammer blow
of the correct magnitude does a better job. I use a regular ball-peen hammer
and grind down the shaft when it peens out. There will be less distortion of
the skin that way. You still have to have the male die in the hole though!
But, there's less chance of it jumping out.
Dan RV-7A (almost finished)
In a message dated 2/24/04 11:29:47 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
foldenburg@earthlink.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Oldenburg" <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>
> I start dimpling the Horizontal Stab left side skin tonight. The first
> few dimples went fine, but then the male part of the die must of slipped
> out of the skin between blows with the mallet.
>
> You can see the result here:
> http://www.rv.oldsack.com/weblog.php?id=C0_1_1
>
> I'm really sick about this and I'm not quite sure what to do. I guess I
> need to order a new skin from Vans. This is not the first screw up I've
> had and I'm sure it is not the last.
>
> Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
>
> Frederick W. Oldenburg Jr.
> RV-7A Standard Kit - Empennage
> http://www.rv.oldsack.com
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Latches |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tailgummer@aol.com
Great idea!. How do I order one? BTW the e-mail address listed on Sam
Buchanan's site kicked back.
Thanks!! John
D'Onofrio (Tailgummer@aol.com)
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Most bolts and screws are rolled not cut even in the hardware store. It is
just cheaper to do it that way. I haven't seen these screws but the odds are
the threads are rolled.
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Screws
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> Interesting. I bought some about 18 months ago. How would anyone who
> bought these before the change know if they got screws with the bad design
> that the heads twist off of or the new improved ones. Is there a torque
> range for testing their strength? I understand these screws are not
> structural. And the threads are not rolled but cut in. Someone with
> knowledge please correct any of this that is wrong.
>
> I am sending this info to Microfasteners also
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> Firewall Forward
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Calhoun" <roncal@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Screws
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Calhoun" <roncal@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Mickey, these were made especially for the rv list. The first batch
> > heads twisted off, but they replaced all orders with new ones with
> > smaller torx. And will probably use then everywhere else
> > when I paint.
> > You can go direct to them at
> > http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSCFCMXS.cfm
> >
> > They are listed as 6 lobe drive screws, but are Torx. I suspect it has
> > something to do with avoiding royalty payments for using the trademarked
> > name "Torx".
> >
> > Ron Calhoun
> > RV-4
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Screws
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > While installing the phillips screws into the various nutplates, I got
> > to asking myself if there are aviation quality Torx screws that could be
> > used instead. Does anyone know of a supplier for Torx or at a minimum
> > some other type of hex head screw that won't slip off?
> >
> > I even used Torx on my workbenches - they are great.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Mickey
> >
> > PS: In case you don't know what the heck I'm talking
> > about, here is a photo:
> >
> > http://rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=workshop&id=DSCN7925
> >
> > or in case that wraps on your screen:
> >
> > http://www.rv8.ch/albums/workshop/DSCN7925.jpg
> >
> >
> > --
> > Mickey Coggins
> > http://www.rv8.ch/
> > #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
> >
> >
> > ==
> > direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> > ==
> > ==
> > ==
> >
> >
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Latches |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Tailgummer@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Tailgummer@aol.com
>
> Great idea!. How do I order one? BTW the e-mail address listed on Sam
> Buchanan's site kicked back.
> Thanks!! John
> D'Onofrio (Tailgummer@aol.com)
Bill's email link in the article has now been updated:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/rv8-latch.html
Thanks for the note,
Sam Buchanan
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
I think it is time to change my tires on my RV-6 (i am not the builder)
I have RV-4 wheel pants so I am assuming I have to stay with the same
size tire I have. (the pants are tight). I would rather spend more
money and get tires that will last longer. So I have 2 questions.
1. What is the best tire to get? I define best as last the longest.
2. How the heck do you jack this think up to change the tire? Where are
the jack points?
Thanks a lot,
N242DS RV-6
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Lockamy, Jack L" <jack.lockamy@navy.mil>
Mickey (and others),
After powder coating my instrument panel, I had some concerns about the phillips head screws in the panel and "slipping" screwdrivers. I found McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) sells Hex head torque screw in all sizes. They even had the lowered-head, black ones which is what I used for the panel.
Just go to the McMaster website and search for HEX HEAD or BUTTON HEAD SCREWS.
You will see multiple pages. You usually have to buy them in lots of 100 pcs,
but the prices are very reasonable in my opinion. Also having some spare screws
is always a good thing.....
Hope this helps,
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A wiring
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Condition Inspection Checklist |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Sorry... I should know better...
Anyway, I posted it to my web site:
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/downloads/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Brown
Subject: Re: Condition Inspection Checklist
Bill, your checklist did not make it through Matt's filter. Can you send me a copy?
Thanks Bill!
Paul Brown
Message 17
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| Subject: | broken and missing 0-ring |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
On my last flight, immediately on takeoff, fuel began spewing out of my
right side gas cap. (You won't believe how much is sucked out until you
actually see it for yourself) The flow slowed down on leveling off and
stopped completely once I began a descent. The tank was about 3/4 full on
takeoff, and in the time it took to get around the pattern I estimate losing
1-1.5 gallons throught the cap.
On landing, I first checked that the cap was on tight. It was. I then
checked the large O-ring that seals the cap in the flange. It appears fine.
But maybe appearances are deceiving. Maybe the O-ring has hardened in such
a way that it no longer seals well. Call Van's and buy a new set. Well,
since my cap is 12 years old, and new caps are somewhat different, I was
told to call Usher Enterprises direct to get a new set of old style rings.
Call Usher. Which O-ring do you need - each cap has 2, a big one and a small
one. Two 0-rings in each cap? OK, they're cheap enough - send 2 of each.
If one cap went bad, the other will surely be quick to follow.
It turns out that there is also a small O-ring which seals the stem inside
the cap. In my left tank, I found the small ring split in half, but yet to
spring a leak, although I doubt it would have been long until it did. In
the right cap, the ring was completely gone. Either lying somewhere in the
snow or floating somewhere in the tank. Nothing lasts forever, and nothing
can be taken forgranted. I'm still amazed how quickly fuel is sucked out of
such a small opening.
It's now replaced and all is fine. Maybe one more thing to carry in your
flight bag. Either that, or always make sure you've got enough fuel
available in either tank to make it to the next gas station.
Andy
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: a titanium Ti-down note |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
For anyone who doesn't have a set of Randy's Ti-downs....
These are one of the coolest accessories you can put in your RV!
I bought a set years ago when Randy first came out with them. Since
then I've used them all around the country...and in the Bahamas as
well, where they held my RV down during 50 kts winds in sandy dirt
that was flooded. Couldn't ask for more.
These things are awesome. I've tried to break them, but can't, and
they weigh 1/2 the weight of any other set of tie-downs I've seen.
It's the first thing I throw in the RV for a cross-country trip.
If you don't have a set, do yourself a favor and get some.
I don't know Randy personally, or have any interest in his
business.....I just like to vouch for products that I really like.
Laird RV-6 900hrs
SoCal
>--> RV-List message posted by: Randy Simpson <airtime@proaxis.com>
>
>Hi again RV builders and flyers,
>
>It's been a couple of years since I've posted a note here about my titanium
>Ti-downs, so I hope I'm not over-doing it, spamwise. If you're not
>interested in titanium Ti-downs or what I've been up to lately, delete this
>now.
>
>I've gotten some emails recently asking if I'm still making and selling the
>Ti-downs, so I'd like to let everyone here know I'm still doing it. RV
>builders and flyers have been my main customers, by far.
>
>I've been selling the Ti-downs since 1998, and have learned during that
>time that my business is VERY seasonal, and for the previous two winters
>(since I quit my day job at the titanium plant), I've had to go to work for
>a flying buddy's business, installing computer and phone systems in Fred
>Meyer stores, to make ends meet, moneywise.
>
>This winter, I've been busy setting up a homesite and moving to my 108 acre
>forrest, and haven't worked on any outside job, having enough $$ buffer to
>make it this far. Just as my money was running out, the orders are starting
>to trickle in again *phew* The move is saving me about $500/month, and I'm
>enjoying living here more...a win win situation *smile*
>
>There has been enough Ti-down kits sold for "word-of-mouth" orders to keep
>me in business the past couple of years, without having to advertise any.
>I've got to tell you, nothing satisfies me like seeing a word-of-mouth
>order coming in. *smile*
>
>Now the bad news...the $10 discount and free shipping I've always offered
>this RV-List is going away. I was originally going to do this the first of
>this year, but I've been busy with the big move, I haven't gotten around to
>it yet. I've decided to keep the $10 discount and free shipping offer until
>the first day of spring this year. That's about a month away from now.
>There's been alot of "first flights" reported on this list (I've been
>lurking quietly continiously this whole time), and I'm hoping this notice
>will generate a few more orders.
>
>I've been asked many times by Aircraft accessory dealers and distributors
>about carrying my Ti-downs, but I've always said no, because I can't make
>them for what they want to pay for the Ti-downs, in order to make the
>profit they say they need. I just have trouble with them making more profit
>than me, when it takes me a little over 2 hours to make each kit, and all
>they have to do is take the order, and stick on a shipping label. I have
>given in to one dealer, Rollison Airplane Company, Inc. and we've agreed to
>a dealer price. It does require me to sell them at my List Price, without
>free shipping. I'll have to wait and see how it works out. He and his
>company go to all the big fly-in's, so that should help, saleswise.
>
>OK, enough about Ti-downs.
>I put this little ditty together tonite to show anyone interested in my new
>"almost instant shop", and future runway project in the woods...
>
>http://www.airtimemfg.com/homestead.htm
>
>I'm pretty sure some of you will enjoy this little picture tour...
>Sincerely,
>Randy Simpson
>Airtime Mfg.
>(now) Brownsville, Oregon
>Carrera ultralight flying, aircamping adventurer
>titanium Ti-down maker
>Inventor, Supersecret UL project engineer
>http://www.airtimemfg.com
>
>phone (cell) 541-730-5121
>
>do not archive
>
>
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
> I think it is time to change my tires on my RV-6 (i am not the builder)
> I have RV-4 wheel pants so I am assuming I have to stay with the same
> size tire I have. (the pants are tight). I would rather spend more
> money and get tires that will last longer. So I have 2 questions.
>
> 1. What is the best tire to get? I define best as last the longest.
> 2. How the heck do you jack this think up to change the tire? Where are
> the jack points?
>
> Thanks a lot,
> N242DS RV-6
>
I swear by Michelin tires and tubes. They are not cheap, but last a long,
long time. Replace the tubes also (again, they are not cheap, but don't
leak air). I have used them on both of my RV-4s.
Do you have tiedown points? (screw-in steel eyelets) If so, I have rigged
up a simple auto jack extension that will bolt through your tiedown rings.
I can take a photo of this and send you one. Works great.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, N722DW, 105 hours TT
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
There are several jacking options shown in past issues of the RV-ator.
I use a regular scissors type car jack. I put it on a couple cinder blocks
to raise it to near the height of the wing, and then put a 2x4 and a piece
of old carpet between it and the wing spar about halfway down the span.
I've seen others attach a threaded rod to the jack and then into the opening
in the wing where the tie down ring goes.
As far as tires, I've heard it said that re-treads last longer than new
tires, but don't make the same mistake I did. Retreads are slightly bigger
and won't fit well in the wheel pants. One landing (even a nice one) and
your wheel pants will be ripped apart requiring re-building and re-painting.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: New tires
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
> I think it is time to change my tires on my RV-6 (i am not the builder)
> I have RV-4 wheel pants so I am assuming I have to stay with the same
> size tire I have. (the pants are tight). I would rather spend more
> money and get tires that will last longer. So I have 2 questions.
>
> 1. What is the best tire to get? I define best as last the longest.
> 2. How the heck do you jack this think up to change the tire? Where are
> the jack points?
>
> Thanks a lot,
> N242DS RV-6
>
>
> Jason Sneed
> Commercial Lending Officer
> First National Bank and Trust
>
>
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
Fred, If I were to take a picture of mine, I think we would have twins. My
first reaction to my mistake was, out of breath, stomached turned, and call
Van's for a new skin. After taking with factory they told me to flatten out
the unwanted dimple and dimple the correct hole to maintain
symmetry. Once the rivet is set in the correct hole you fill it with micro
or feather fill, prime, paint, and WALLA. Hole Fixed! DO NOT LOSE SLEEP OVER
IT! If you were to replace everything that may go wrong during constrution
we would all still be in the shop and broke. That's worth losing sleep over.
Good-luck with your project and drive-on.
>From: "Fred Oldenburg" <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Ruined HS Skin Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 21:27:28 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Oldenburg" <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>
>I start dimpling the Horizontal Stab left side skin tonight. The first
>few dimples went fine, but then the male part of the die must of slipped
>out of the skin between blows with the mallet.
>
>You can see the result here:
>http://www.rv.oldsack.com/weblog.php?id=C0_1_1
>
>I'm really sick about this and I'm not quite sure what to do. I guess I
>need to order a new skin from Vans. This is not the first screw up I've
>had and I'm sure it is not the last.
>
>Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Fred
>
>Frederick W. Oldenburg Jr.
>RV-7A Standard Kit - Empennage
>http://www.rv.oldsack.com
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: Adam Boggs <boggs@aircrafter.org>
Hi Folks,
The other day I was dimpling along on my wing skins and suddenly
realized that the pin on my male die had sheared off! After talking to
some other builders, it sounds like it's not uncommon to go through a
few sets of 3/32 dimple dies for a plane. I called Avery about it and
they were really great. Bob Avery replaced my male dimple die at his
cost, even though it was beyond the warrantee. (I then ordered a new
female die too and a bunch of other stuff.) He said to make sure that
I've completely cleared away all of the deburring shards or it could put
a lot of stress on the dimple dies. He also offered to clean out my
rivet gun which has been "luffing". I don't think it gets said enough
when companies do good business, so I just wanted to say that I'm really
impressed with Avery Tools and their commitment to their customers.
Now, on to my real question about dimpling technique... Normally when i
dimple I hit the plunger on my c-frame tool with my 2lb dead blow hammer
and let the plunger travel the inch or so down to where the skin is
sitting on the male dimple die. I talked to a friend about his
technique and he said he pushes the plunger down so it is mated with the
skin and male die, and then hits it with a hammer. Which is the proper
technique?
I experimented with holding the plunger down and found that it is much
more stable and significantly decreases the chances of the skin popping
off the die and putting an extra hole in the skin, but it doesn't seem
to produce as crisp a dimple. (ie. it seems to deform the skin around
the dimple a little more.)
Thoughts? Opinions? Is either way "bad"?
Thanks,
-Adam
rv7a wings
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Adam,
I too broke a die by not holding the shaft down into the work. I had the
best results by having some help on the larger pieces and holding them square to
the surface as evidenced by the reflection of the shaft, and using my left
hand to hold the shaft down and hammering with my right hand. I used 2x4s, etc.,
to shim the table up to level with the male die. I then used a regular
ball-peen hammer with one blow (after slowly learning how hard to hit it). That
seemed to get the best results for me. I was into building the fuselage by the
time I caught onto this, and you can see the improvement.
Dan RV-7A (almost finished)
In a message dated 2/25/04 11:48:39 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
boggs@aircrafter.org writes:
> Now, on to my real question about dimpling technique... Normally when i
> dimple I hit the plunger on my c-frame tool with my 2lb dead blow hammer
> and let the plunger travel the inch or so down to where the skin is
> sitting on the male dimple die. I talked to a friend about his
> technique and he said he pushes the plunger down so it is mated with the
> skin and male die, and then hits it with a hammer. Which is the proper
> technique?
>
> I experimented with holding the plunger down and found that it is much
> more stable and significantly decreases the chances of the skin popping
> off the die and putting an extra hole in the skin, but it doesn't seem
> to produce as crisp a dimple. (ie. it seems to deform the skin around
> the dimple a little more.)
>
> Thoughts? Opinions? Is either way "bad"?
>
> Thanks,
> -Adam
> rv7a wings
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Adam:
I think you answered you own question. It is far better, IMHO, to hold the
die down to the surface to be dimpled. No chance for slight movement that
can elongate your hole, and as you said, greatly decreases the chance of
making an "inspection hole" by mistake.
My technique was to hold the dies together by grasping the die holder rod
(for want of a better term) at the top of the c-frame----where the return
spring is. Then I would hit it lightly one stroke, then another slightly
firmer stroke. Done deal. You do not have to whack the thing into
submission. This will reduce your chances of deforming the material around
the dimple.
When you go to rivet your skin you are dimpling, use the trick of running
your deburring tool around a couple of times in the dimple to remove any
curvature inside the dimple. Your rivets will then sit down really nice.
Hope all this helps.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
panel
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Boggs" <boggs@aircrafter.org>
Subject: RV-List: broke a dimple die
> --> RV-List message posted by: Adam Boggs <boggs@aircrafter.org>
>
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> The other day I was dimpling along on my wing skins and suddenly
> realized that the pin on my male die had sheared off! After talking to
> some other builders, it sounds like it's not uncommon to go through a
> few sets of 3/32 dimple dies for a plane. I called Avery about it and
> they were really great. Bob Avery replaced my male dimple die at his
> cost, even though it was beyond the warrantee. (I then ordered a new
> female die too and a bunch of other stuff.) He said to make sure that
> I've completely cleared away all of the deburring shards or it could put
> a lot of stress on the dimple dies. He also offered to clean out my
> rivet gun which has been "luffing". I don't think it gets said enough
> when companies do good business, so I just wanted to say that I'm really
> impressed with Avery Tools and their commitment to their customers.
>
> Now, on to my real question about dimpling technique... Normally when i
> dimple I hit the plunger on my c-frame tool with my 2lb dead blow hammer
> and let the plunger travel the inch or so down to where the skin is
> sitting on the male dimple die. I talked to a friend about his
> technique and he said he pushes the plunger down so it is mated with the
> skin and male die, and then hits it with a hammer. Which is the proper
> technique?
>
> I experimented with holding the plunger down and found that it is much
> more stable and significantly decreases the chances of the skin popping
> off the die and putting an extra hole in the skin, but it doesn't seem
> to produce as crisp a dimple. (ie. it seems to deform the skin around
> the dimple a little more.)
>
> Thoughts? Opinions? Is either way "bad"?
>
> Thanks,
> -Adam
> rv7a wings
>
>
Message 25
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
My understanding is that the change involved going to a smaller size recess,
ie, the new screws use a T-15 driver whereas the older style used a T-20.
Albert Gardner
>
> Interesting. I bought some about 18 months ago. How would anyone who
> bought these before the change know if they got screws with the bad design
> that the heads twist off of or the new improved ones. Is there a torque
> range for testing their strength? I understand these screws are not
> structural. And the threads are not rolled but cut in. Someone with
> knowledge please correct any of this that is wrong.
Message 26
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| Subject: | broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
If you have some slop in your c-frame , as I do, I give er a single
alignment tap, then swing away. With out the short alignment tap, I both
break male dies, and get inconsistent dimples.
Mike Stewart
Been dimpling this week in fact.
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Adam Boggs
Subject: RV-List: broke a dimple die
--> RV-List message posted by: Adam Boggs <boggs@aircrafter.org>
Hi Folks,
The other day I was dimpling along on my wing skins and suddenly
realized that the pin on my male die had sheared off! After talking to
some other builders, it sounds like it's not uncommon to go through a
few sets of 3/32 dimple dies for a plane. I called Avery about it and
they were really great. Bob Avery replaced my male dimple die at his
cost, even though it was beyond the warrantee. (I then ordered a new
female die too and a bunch of other stuff.) He said to make sure that
I've completely cleared away all of the deburring shards or it could put
a lot of stress on the dimple dies. He also offered to clean out my
rivet gun which has been "luffing". I don't think it gets said enough
when companies do good business, so I just wanted to say that I'm really
impressed with Avery Tools and their commitment to their customers.
Now, on to my real question about dimpling technique... Normally when i
dimple I hit the plunger on my c-frame tool with my 2lb dead blow hammer
and let the plunger travel the inch or so down to where the skin is
sitting on the male dimple die. I talked to a friend about his
technique and he said he pushes the plunger down so it is mated with the
skin and male die, and then hits it with a hammer. Which is the proper
technique?
I experimented with holding the plunger down and found that it is much
more stable and significantly decreases the chances of the skin popping
off the die and putting an extra hole in the skin, but it doesn't seem
to produce as crisp a dimple. (ie. it seems to deform the skin around
the dimple a little more.)
Thoughts? Opinions? Is either way "bad"?
Thanks,
-Adam
rv7a wings
==
==
==
==
Message 27
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| Subject: | broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I have an add-on to the question below about technique. I've also been
using the male die in the bottom of the c-frame with the female on the
plunger. I saw that some folks use the male die in the plunger instead.
I can see where that might be an advantage for keep scratches to a
minimum but is there a preferred method by those that have done more
than the tail kit?
Bob RV-10 #105
-----Original Message-----
From: Adam Boggs [mailto:boggs@aircrafter.org]
Subject: RV-List: broke a dimple die
--> RV-List message posted by: Adam Boggs <boggs@aircrafter.org>
Hi Folks,
The other day I was dimpling along on my wing skins and suddenly
realized that the pin on my male die had sheared off! After talking to
some other builders, it sounds like it's not uncommon to go through a
few sets of 3/32 dimple dies for a plane. I called Avery about it and
they were really great. Bob Avery replaced my male dimple die at his
cost, even though it was beyond the warrantee. (I then ordered a new
female die too and a bunch of other stuff.) He said to make sure that
I've completely cleared away all of the deburring shards or it could put
a lot of stress on the dimple dies. He also offered to clean out my
rivet gun which has been "luffing". I don't think it gets said enough
when companies do good business, so I just wanted to say that I'm really
impressed with Avery Tools and their commitment to their customers.
Now, on to my real question about dimpling technique... Normally when i
dimple I hit the plunger on my c-frame tool with my 2lb dead blow hammer
and let the plunger travel the inch or so down to where the skin is
sitting on the male dimple die. I talked to a friend about his
technique and he said he pushes the plunger down so it is mated with the
skin and male die, and then hits it with a hammer. Which is the proper
technique?
I experimented with holding the plunger down and found that it is much
more stable and significantly decreases the chances of the skin popping
off the die and putting an extra hole in the skin, but it doesn't seem
to produce as crisp a dimple. (ie. it seems to deform the skin around
the dimple a little more.)
Thoughts? Opinions? Is either way "bad"?
Thanks,
-Adam
rv7a wings
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
After talking to
>some other builders, it sounds like it's not uncommon to go through a
>few sets of 3/32 dimple dies for a plane.
I only used one for the entire slow build.
>
>Now, on to my real question about dimpling technique... Normally when i
>dimple I hit the plunger on my c-frame tool with my 2lb dead blow hammer
>and let the plunger travel the inch or so down to where the skin is
>sitting on the male dimple die. I talked to a friend about his
>technique and he said he pushes the plunger down so it is mated with the
>skin and male die, and then hits it with a hammer. Which is the proper
>technique?
I removed the spring lifted and inserted the rod with male die into the
hole, then hammered it twice. The second time I could hear the dies
bottoming out with a distinct sound.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: a titanium Ti-down note |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/25/04 4:52:06 AM Pacific Standard Time,
crowbotham@hotmail.com writes:
<< Any word on when you will be offering Ti tie down RINGS - Sure would like
to ditch the heavy ones for (3) Ti rings. >>
I'll take two Ti tie down rings when you're ready to offer them Randy.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/25/04 8:48:39 AM Pacific Standard Time,
boggs@aircrafter.org writes:
<< I experimented with holding the plunger down and found that it is much
more stable and significantly decreases the chances of the skin popping
off the die and putting an extra hole in the skin >>
I learned the hard way to do it just as you describe for the same reason.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Bob:
I preferred to have the male die in the base of the c-frame, and I made sure
that it the face of the die was just a hair above the plane of the support
tables I made with carpet on them so that there was just a bit of upward
pressure on the skin at the die.
As to scratches, I will probably get flamed here but I left the vinyl
covering on the skin whilst dimpling. As I stated in an earlier post, I
turned my deburring tool in each dimple a couple of revs prior to riveting
and I am very happy with how my rivets came out. Others will say that the
thickness of the protective covering will hamper the creation of a proper
dimple, but I had no difficulties.
Just my opinion, mind you. I suggest you try dimpling some scrap with the
covering on and off and make your own judgment. If you do remove the
covering, extra care is need to not scratch your skin....a consideration if
you do not plan to paint your RV. The scratches you make with a male dimple
die will not be a factor if you do paint. Again, just my every humble
opinion.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
panel
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: broke a dimple die
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I have an add-on to the question below about technique. I've also been
> using the male die in the bottom of the c-frame with the female on the
> plunger. I saw that some folks use the male die in the plunger instead.
> I can see where that might be an advantage for keep scratches to a
> minimum but is there a preferred method by those that have done more
> than the tail kit?
>
> Bob RV-10 #105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Adam Boggs [mailto:boggs@aircrafter.org]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: broke a dimple die
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Adam Boggs <boggs@aircrafter.org>
>
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> The other day I was dimpling along on my wing skins and suddenly
> realized that the pin on my male die had sheared off! After talking to
> some other builders, it sounds like it's not uncommon to go through a
> few sets of 3/32 dimple dies for a plane. I called Avery about it and
> they were really great. Bob Avery replaced my male dimple die at his
> cost, even though it was beyond the warrantee. (I then ordered a new
> female die too and a bunch of other stuff.) He said to make sure that
> I've completely cleared away all of the deburring shards or it could put
> a lot of stress on the dimple dies. He also offered to clean out my
> rivet gun which has been "luffing". I don't think it gets said enough
> when companies do good business, so I just wanted to say that I'm really
> impressed with Avery Tools and their commitment to their customers.
>
> Now, on to my real question about dimpling technique... Normally when i
> dimple I hit the plunger on my c-frame tool with my 2lb dead blow hammer
> and let the plunger travel the inch or so down to where the skin is
> sitting on the male dimple die. I talked to a friend about his
> technique and he said he pushes the plunger down so it is mated with the
> skin and male die, and then hits it with a hammer. Which is the proper
> technique?
>
> I experimented with holding the plunger down and found that it is much
> more stable and significantly decreases the chances of the skin popping
> off the die and putting an extra hole in the skin, but it doesn't seem
> to produce as crisp a dimple. (ie. it seems to deform the skin around
> the dimple a little more.)
>
> Thoughts? Opinions? Is either way "bad"?
>
> Thanks,
> -Adam
> rv7a wings
>
>
> ==
> direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/25/04 9:48:57 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
<< I have an add-on to the question below about technique. I've also been
using the male die in the bottom of the c-frame with the female on the
plunger. I saw that some folks use the male die in the plunger instead.
I can see where that might be an advantage for keep scratches to a
minimum but is there a preferred method by those that have done more
than the tail kit?
>>
Just my experience but I found that using the male die in the bottom allows
you to "index" the dies before striking the plunger. Many thousand dimples
later it still seems to work better that way for me.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Rotaries Again |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
You'll probably be using a 1:3.85 PSRU (reduction gear box).
So you should be seeing 467 LB/FT torque at the prop. Right?
Finn
David Kirby wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Kirby" <davewendi@earthlink.net>
>
>I read somewhere that the new Renesis rotary
>has 247 HP but only 164 LB/FT of torque. What does this mean for us? Would this
cause the engine to be sluggish? May not be good in a go around situation?
Anybody have any
>thoughts? Never looked to see what kind of torque a Lycoming
>has. Anyone know?
>
>
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
Several things that I've learned about dimpling from
building by HS stabilizer:
1. I started out using a dead-blow mallet. I
discovered on my second HS skin, that the dimples
weren't as perfect as I would have liked. There was
some skin distortion around the dimple (actually the
skin seemes to roll into the dimple, instead of the
dimple being formed nice and sharply around the rivet
head) and the rivets didn't seem to sit quite all the
way into the dimple, though this is very slight. I
found that by switching from the dead blow hammer to a
2lb brass head hammer, AND striking the dimpler more
firmly, I get very clean, crisp dimples, and the
rivets sit very well. Somewhere along the line before
I started my kit, I was given the advice not to strike
the dimpler too firmly. I think this was wrong,
because my best dimples I get are formed from quite
firm strikes.
2. I push and hold the "C" frame shaft all the way
down and mate the dies, then I form the dimple with
ONE solid blow. A light "alignment tap" first seems
to increase skin distortion around the dimple.
3. I try to make sure that the C frame dimpler is
located over a leg of my work bench, so that there is
no table flex and the dimple blow is sharp.
4. After making one boo-boo dimple on my HS
stabilizer skin, I am very careful about making sure
the male die is in the hole before I strike. Being
deliberate about this might make the dimpling process
take slightly longer, but it's worth it!
5. I've yet to break a die, but I'm not too far along
on my kit.
Skylor
RV-8 QB, Under Construction!
--- HCRV6@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 2/25/04 9:48:57 AM Pacific
> Standard Time,
> bob.condrey@baesystems.com writes:
>
> << I have an add-on to the question below about
> technique. I've also been
> using the male die in the bottom of the c-frame
> with the female on the
> plunger. I saw that some folks use the male die in
> the plunger instead.
> I can see where that might be an advantage for keep
> scratches to a
> minimum but is there a preferred method by those
> that have done more
> than the tail kit?
> >>
>
> Just my experience but I found that using the male
> die in the bottom allows
> you to "index" the dies before striking the plunger.
> Many thousand dimples
> later it still seems to work better that way for me.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, final assembly
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
Message 35
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Meacham" <bruce_meacham@hotmail.com>
Structural Question:
On the wing; does anyone know why bolts are called for on the rib re-inforcing
angle? I did the joint analysis and another 3/16ths solid rivet would be plenty
strong. Don't get me wrong, I'm still using the bolts.
Bruce Meacham
RV-4 Wings
RV-3 N3456B
do not archive
Message 36
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| Subject: | Tenth Annual Twin Cities RV Fly In |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Fellow listers,
Get out those calendars and mark down May 22nd and 23rd for taking the
RV to the Twin Cities of Minneapolis and St. Paul, Minnesota. We have
changed the format somewhat for this year to emphasize the Fly In
portion of the event. We will still have, as usual, door prizes and
forums discussing all aspects of building and flying RV's.
Additionally, we are holding the Fly In in conjunction with Discover
Aviation Days, a major aviation event, at Anoka County Airport, in the
northern Twin Cities area. There are pancake breakfasts both days, a
pig roast Saturday evening with a hangar dance afterwards.
See our still infant website:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rvflyin/
And the Discover Aviation Days site:
http://www.discoveraviationdays.org/
Hope to see you all there!!
Alex Peterson
Chairman, Twin Cities RV Forum
alexpeterson@earthlink.net
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rvflyin
17650 82nd Way North
Maple Grove, Minnesota, 55311
612-418-9710
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
Generally speaking, I agree with the dimpling techniques outlined in
this thread. A couple of additional comments:
1. I use an ordinary 16oz carpenter's hammer, with a tap-TAP technique.
If I had a dead-blow hammer, or a brass-headed hammer, I'd probably use
it.
2. It's my view that some people on this list are perfectionists, which
is both good and bad. Good in that they build the best possible plane,
but bad in that they sometimes spend an excessive amount of time on
irrelevant details. Any comments on this list (including this one!)
should be taken with a grain of salt.
3. An example of this perfectionism is the concern with *perfect*
dimples... let's not forget that the next step is going to be to crush a
metal rivet into the dimple by bashing it several times with a pneumatic
rivet gun. Any "imperfections" in the original dimple will disappear at
that point.
4. And dimple "crispness". Is this a good thing? It'll mean that there
will be a perfect smooth line across the skin and rivet head. Nice
looking! And aerodynamically clean! BUT! We spend a lot of effort in
avoiding sharp corners in airplane construction because they weaken the
structure. I wonder how much the skin is weakened at every rivet by the
sharp corners that a crisp dimple implies? Probably insignificantly (see
point 2 above). OTOH, the aerodynamic improvements are probably also
insignificant. And so are the improvement in looks.
5. Similarly, generally speaking, ordinary tools are adequate. Not
perfect, but good enough. If you bought all the tools that people
suggest here, you would be broke. And only an Oshkosh Grand Champion
judge would be able to tell the difference.
6. Hold the C-frame shaft down to mate the dies. If it's not held down,
then the metal may move off the bottom die between taps. This *will*
cause an *real* imperfection!
7. Put the male die on the bottom. That helps locate work correctly, and
also helps stop it from moving.
8. Generally, I dimple on a concrete floor. Not because it makes better
dimples, but because its easier. Use some 4x2s or whatever to support
the skin horizontally. Use a foam pad for your knees.
9. I haven't broken any dimple dies (now working on the finish kit of a
(very) slow-build RV-6). I have broken a couple of 3/32" countersink
cutter pilots though. However, I did lend my dies to a fellow builder,
who broke one. But that was being used in a hand-squeezer, I think.
10. I think it's a good idea to remove the plastic before dimpling. If
you remove the plastic after dimpling, little doughnuts of plastic
sometimes get left behind in the dimples. It would then be possible to
accidentally rivet a plastic doughnut in place. I remove strips of
plastic about 1" wide along the rivet lines -- run a soldering iron down
the line where you want the plastic to cut.
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 Finish Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Kraut <engalt@earthlink.net>
I have been using 3M Sandblaster paper. It also works great. I will have to try
the Norton also.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7 Finish Kit
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
sandpaper, Sandpaper, SANDPAPER! 8-)
I just recently tried a new flavor of paper from Norton called "3X High
Performance." I bought it from Home Depot and paid at least twice as much
as el cheapo paper.
But I gotta say that it works wonders. It really works as advertised and
doesn't load or clog up. Clap it and it's clear. It's almost too good
'cause it's hard to tell when it's appropriate to toss it. From now on I'm
going to overpay for the easier time. Too bad I learned this at the end of
the project...
You might also think about having Van's ship you an extra cutting disc that
they sell for cutting the canopy and stuff. They were cheap if I recall.
If you don't already have epoxy, fiberglass, and filler stuff (i.e.
microbaloons, flox, etc.)...grab some West System 105/205 epoxy -- Spruce
sells kits, which include resin & hardener. For like 10 bucks you can buy
the ratio pumps. The canard guys will laugh at you for using West System,
but screw 'em, it's so easy and works great.
Have fun,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <benandginny@insightbb.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV7 Finish Kit
> --> RV-List message posted by: <benandginny@insightbb.com>
>
> I just spoke with Vans today and my RV7 finish kit is ready to ship.
10 weeks from the time I ordered. (Not the 16 weeks as advertised). I would
like some info on what tools, products, and just nice things to have, that I
can order now to be ready to go when this kit arrives. Specifically items
for the canopy, fiberglass work etc.
>
> Ben Cunningham
> RV7
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Heated air inlet location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
> fine eye he questioned me why I didn't take the cabin heat
> air off the oil cooler exit air? We'll Makes sense to me.
> Maybe next time?
>
In addition to the potential oil cooling issues in the summer (outlet being
significantly smaller than cooler inlet), I would be concerned about routing
the outlet air from the oil cooler to the heat muff and then to the cockpit.
Even a very small leak in the cooler could cause a lot of smoke in the
cabin. The control valve would have to work very good not to leak fumes.
Ken
RV-6A N94KB building RV-4
http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/
Message 40
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| Subject: | broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
Something I have come to like is to remove the spring on the C-Frame, place
the skin with half hanging over the side of the bench, put the male die on
top, them move the skin with my left hand while placing the male die in the
hole. Gravity then holds the dies together while picking up the hammer for
a strike. Haven't made any extra holes since adopting this technique.
Allen Fulmer
Empenage
N808AF reserved
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Oil Drain |
--> RV-List message posted by: BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
I think the Ebay description referencing a $120 dollar valve in the ACS
catalog is a little optimistic. A google search for Curtis CCB-37000
turned up several for less than $18. Sacramento Sky Ranch has them on
Ebay for $25 buy it now.
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rotaries Again |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
I'm going to use a 2.85 : 1 gear drive (RWS RD-1C) with my Renesis. Prop should
be ready for it next week (74 x 88). The torque at prop is engine torque (164)
x gear ratio (2.85) 467.4 lb/ft. This ignores gear losses which are minimal.
Go-around response is a non-issue in my experience with the rotary.
Tracy Crook
----- Original Message -----
From: David Kirby
Subject: RV-List: Rotaries Again
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Kirby" <davewendi@earthlink.net>
I read somewhere that the new Renesis rotary
has 247 HP but only 164 LB/FT of torque. What does this mean for us? Would this
cause the engine to be sluggish? May not be good in a go around situation?
Anybody have any
thoughts? Never looked to see what kind of torque a Lycoming
has. Anyone know?
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Frank:
I couldn't agree with you more regarding numbers 2,3,4 and 5. Well put.
The old saying that we are building airplanes, not watches rings true here.
Those that choose to sweat every detail and build award-winning airplanes
certainly have my admiration, but some of the nit-picking can scare the
daylights out of the average builder at times.
As to concerns over plastic doughnuts if the protective plastic is not
removed prior to dimpling...( I KNEW I should have covered this!!) Yes,
that can happen. I have been very careful to check for them, this being
made more difficult as my skins were covered in clear plastic, not the blue
that is currently provided. A quick spin with an exacto blade and anything
that was left behind was removed.
Thanks for pointing that out for the new builders out there.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
panel
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
Subject: RV-List: Re: broke a dimple die
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)"
<F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
>
> Generally speaking, I agree with the dimpling techniques outlined in
> this thread. A couple of additional comments:
>
> 1. I use an ordinary 16oz carpenter's hammer, with a tap-TAP technique.
> If I had a dead-blow hammer, or a brass-headed hammer, I'd probably use
> it.
>
> 2. It's my view that some people on this list are perfectionists, which
> is both good and bad. Good in that they build the best possible plane,
> but bad in that they sometimes spend an excessive amount of time on
> irrelevant details. Any comments on this list (including this one!)
> should be taken with a grain of salt.
>
> 3. An example of this perfectionism is the concern with *perfect*
> dimples... let's not forget that the next step is going to be to crush a
> metal rivet into the dimple by bashing it several times with a pneumatic
> rivet gun. Any "imperfections" in the original dimple will disappear at
> that point.
>
> 4. And dimple "crispness". Is this a good thing? It'll mean that there
> will be a perfect smooth line across the skin and rivet head. Nice
> looking! And aerodynamically clean! BUT! We spend a lot of effort in
> avoiding sharp corners in airplane construction because they weaken the
> structure. I wonder how much the skin is weakened at every rivet by the
> sharp corners that a crisp dimple implies? Probably insignificantly (see
> point 2 above). OTOH, the aerodynamic improvements are probably also
> insignificant. And so are the improvement in looks.
>
> 5. Similarly, generally speaking, ordinary tools are adequate. Not
> perfect, but good enough. If you bought all the tools that people
> suggest here, you would be broke. And only an Oshkosh Grand Champion
> judge would be able to tell the difference.
>
> 6. Hold the C-frame shaft down to mate the dies. If it's not held down,
> then the metal may move off the bottom die between taps. This *will*
> cause an *real* imperfection!
>
> 7. Put the male die on the bottom. That helps locate work correctly, and
> also helps stop it from moving.
>
> 8. Generally, I dimple on a concrete floor. Not because it makes better
> dimples, but because its easier. Use some 4x2s or whatever to support
> the skin horizontally. Use a foam pad for your knees.
>
> 9. I haven't broken any dimple dies (now working on the finish kit of a
> (very) slow-build RV-6). I have broken a couple of 3/32" countersink
> cutter pilots though. However, I did lend my dies to a fellow builder,
> who broke one. But that was being used in a hand-squeezer, I think.
>
> 10. I think it's a good idea to remove the plastic before dimpling. If
> you remove the plastic after dimpling, little doughnuts of plastic
> sometimes get left behind in the dimples. It would then be possible to
> accidentally rivet a plastic doughnut in place. I remove strips of
> plastic about 1" wide along the rivet lines -- run a soldering iron down
> the line where you want the plastic to cut.
>
> Frank
> Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
> at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
> (0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
> and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
> Learning.
>
> Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
> future
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: FrozenControls |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Dave,
Has your friend tried heating it back up again to see if it "unfreezes"? Sometimes
moisture can get down inside the sleeve of a cable and when it's cold and
it refreezes, it can jam the controls completely just like you describe. Heating
with a torpedo heater could exacerbate this problem because there's a lot
of water vapor as a product of the combustion of kerosene, so when you blow this
into a cold cowl, the moisture can condense on (and maybe inside?) the cold
cable, then after the heat's removed if the air temp's still below freezing,
it refreezes...
I read about an ultralight incident a few years back, can't remember what kind
it was but it used sheathed cables to connect the stick to the flight controls.
It was parked in a warm hangar on one nice winter day when the owner decided
to take it around the patch. Don't know if he did a good control check before
takeoff or not, but anyway, once airborne he discovered that the controls froze
solid (fortunately in a more-or-less neutral position!). Amazingly he was
able to land it by using power to control pitch/altitude and rudder to turn
it. Couldn't figure out what was jamming the controls, until after back in the
warm hangar they started working just fine again....
Thought I'd share this just in case....let us know what the final prognosis is
for your friend's -8.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fwf cables and stuff...
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: FrozenControls
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
A friend just experienced a failure I haven't seen on the list. After preheating
his RV8 with a torpedo heater directed through the cowl exit ramp, his mixture
control froze solid. It turns out that the control cables Vans supplies for
throttle, mixture, and prop contain something inside that melts then jams the
cable when it cools. I don't know the critical temperature, but it occurred
to me to wonder if others had experienced this who might have a better handle
on how hot those cables can get before they start melting. I'm also wondering
if the aftermath of an in flight fire that you blow/starve out might leave
you in the air with jammed controls. Any thoughts?
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 45
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| Subject: | Reno Box Seating |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux@bendnet.com>
To whom may be interested in box seating in Reno this year.
I've had a couple more people contact me regarding Reno.
I filled the one box already. I've got (4) confirmed seats sold
and need to fill 6 more to complete another box. If interested
contact me off list at mcomeaux@bendnet.com.
Regards Mike Comeaux
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Opinions on new Ray Allen stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
I have one of the new Ray Allen stick grips and really like it. I was one of the
first to order it when they advertised it. The delivery date kept slipping
and it took about two months to finally get it. They reduced the price by 50%
"for my patience". I also added a switch for autopilot disconnect and a flap
switch. It looks great and feels great with either hand. It is very high quality.
Jim Cone
3-peat offender
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Ruined HS Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
Drill out to #30. Carefully redimple the correct hole position. Use a Dremel
and a polishing wheel and polish the edge of the bad hole so it won't crack.
Use an "Oops rivet" and set the rivet normally. Fill the space at the side with
Bondo or JB Weld. After painting you will not be able to see the problem.
Jim Cone
3-peat Offender
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Oil Drain |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
Sounds overpriced to me. I looked it up though and there is a drain valve at
Spruce for 120.95.
Part number AE80664H Lycoming Engines 1/2NPT $120.950
do not archive
-David Taylor
Warner Robins, GA
Wing Tanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Brooks" <BrooksRV6@webtv.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Quick Oil Drain
> --> RV-List message posted by: BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
>
> I think the Ebay description referencing a $120 dollar valve in the ACS
> catalog is a little optimistic. A google search for Curtis CCB-37000
> turned up several for less than $18. Sacramento Sky Ranch has them on
> Ebay for $25 buy it now.
>
>
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: a titanium Ti-down note |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
I second that. I used them with my Cessna 140 that had a tendency to want
to pick up since the wing was so much higher off of the ground. Randy's tie
downs are awesome. You will be truly amazed at how strong they are and how
light they are. I think Sam Buchanan has a review on his site for those of
you not familiary with them.
They are collecting dust in my closet right now, but you can bet they will
be in my next airplane.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Laird Owens" <owens@aerovironment.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: a titanium Ti-down note
> --> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>
> For anyone who doesn't have a set of Randy's Ti-downs....
>
> These are one of the coolest accessories you can put in your RV!
>
> I bought a set years ago when Randy first came out with them. Since
> then I've used them all around the country...and in the Bahamas as
> well, where they held my RV down during 50 kts winds in sandy dirt
> that was flooded. Couldn't ask for more.
>
> These things are awesome. I've tried to break them, but can't, and
> they weigh 1/2 the weight of any other set of tie-downs I've seen.
> It's the first thing I throw in the RV for a cross-country trip.
>
> If you don't have a set, do yourself a favor and get some.
>
> I don't know Randy personally, or have any interest in his
> business.....I just like to vouch for products that I really like.
>
> Laird RV-6 900hrs
> SoCal
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Randy Simpson <airtime@proaxis.com>
> >
> >Hi again RV builders and flyers,
> >
> >It's been a couple of years since I've posted a note here about my
titanium
> >Ti-downs, so I hope I'm not over-doing it, spamwise. If you're not
> >interested in titanium Ti-downs or what I've been up to lately, delete
this
> >now.
> >
> >I've gotten some emails recently asking if I'm still making and selling
the
> >Ti-downs, so I'd like to let everyone here know I'm still doing it. RV
> >builders and flyers have been my main customers, by far.
> >
> >I've been selling the Ti-downs since 1998, and have learned during that
> >time that my business is VERY seasonal, and for the previous two winters
> >(since I quit my day job at the titanium plant), I've had to go to work
for
> >a flying buddy's business, installing computer and phone systems in Fred
> >Meyer stores, to make ends meet, moneywise.
> >
> >This winter, I've been busy setting up a homesite and moving to my 108
acre
> >forrest, and haven't worked on any outside job, having enough $$ buffer
to
> >make it this far. Just as my money was running out, the orders are
starting
> >to trickle in again *phew* The move is saving me about $500/month, and
I'm
> >enjoying living here more...a win win situation *smile*
> >
> >There has been enough Ti-down kits sold for "word-of-mouth" orders to
keep
> >me in business the past couple of years, without having to advertise any.
> >I've got to tell you, nothing satisfies me like seeing a word-of-mouth
> >order coming in. *smile*
> >
> >Now the bad news...the $10 discount and free shipping I've always offered
> >this RV-List is going away. I was originally going to do this the first
of
> >this year, but I've been busy with the big move, I haven't gotten around
to
> >it yet. I've decided to keep the $10 discount and free shipping offer
until
> >the first day of spring this year. That's about a month away from now.
> >There's been alot of "first flights" reported on this list (I've been
> >lurking quietly continiously this whole time), and I'm hoping this notice
> >will generate a few more orders.
> >
> >I've been asked many times by Aircraft accessory dealers and distributors
> >about carrying my Ti-downs, but I've always said no, because I can't make
> >them for what they want to pay for the Ti-downs, in order to make the
> >profit they say they need. I just have trouble with them making more
profit
> >than me, when it takes me a little over 2 hours to make each kit, and all
> >they have to do is take the order, and stick on a shipping label. I have
> >given in to one dealer, Rollison Airplane Company, Inc. and we've agreed
to
> >a dealer price. It does require me to sell them at my List Price, without
> >free shipping. I'll have to wait and see how it works out. He and his
> >company go to all the big fly-in's, so that should help, saleswise.
> >
> >OK, enough about Ti-downs.
> >I put this little ditty together tonite to show anyone interested in my
new
> >"almost instant shop", and future runway project in the woods...
> >
> >http://www.airtimemfg.com/homestead.htm
> >
> >I'm pretty sure some of you will enjoy this little picture tour...
> >Sincerely,
> >Randy Simpson
> >Airtime Mfg.
> >(now) Brownsville, Oregon
> >Carrera ultralight flying, aircamping adventurer
> >titanium Ti-down maker
> >Inventor, Supersecret UL project engineer
> >http://www.airtimemfg.com
> >
> >phone (cell) 541-730-5121
> >
> >do not archive
> >
> >
>
>
Message 50
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| Subject: | turn and bank power consumption |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
My TC shows 1.04 amps at power-on and stablizes at .26 amps after it
spins up.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: thomas a. sargent [mailto:sarg314@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 2:41 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: turn and bank power consumption
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent"
> --> <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> I've been having difficulty finding a typical power
> consumption figure
> for an electric turn and bank indicator. If any one has the
> specs for
> an R.C. Allen or a Sigmatek, that would be fine.
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Was doing a little poking through the flight planner in advance of going
to Dana's fly-in; please be advised there is a TFR just to the NE of
Madison airport, 0-5000' AGL. Please check notams so none of us get a
special escort to the airport! :-)
Sam Buchanan
=======================
Dana Overall wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> The Saturday Flyin is ON. Ill be at the hangar by 8AM. Ill have the
> Hooters wings and the local EAA chapter has asked if they can serve burger,
> chips and drinks. My cell number is listed below.
>
> It appears the entire east coast will be sitting under a large high-pressure
> area from western MO east. Furthermore it appears this high will extend to
> the Great Lakes and Florida. Mother nature seems to have lent a helping
> hand. Weather for Saturday is expected to be 64 degrees, 0% chance of
> precip, winds out of the south at 9. No weather two days either side of
> Saturday.
>
> As I mentioned in a prior post, all activities will occur at the airport,
> i39, Madison Co. Airport, Richmond, KY. As a reference, it is about 20
> miles south of Lexington, KY.
>
> Vendors of which I have either received giveaways from or have received
> strong assurances from are as follows:
>
> I would certainly encourage all to remember this gang.
>
> Control Vision: free total AnyWhere Map software package
> Trioavionics: $200 discount coupon on the purchase of an EZ Autopilot
> Avery: A box of various tools and such
> Kitlog Pro: Paul has donated a Kitlog software package.
> Vans: Two starter kits, shirt, hat.
> Grand Rapids: 10% off coupon on the purchase of an EIS engine system.
> Riteangle AOA: $50 off coupon on the purchase of a new angle of attack unit
> Aircraftextras.com
> Brian Krauts post light system.
>
> I would also encourage anyone having anything to sell, to bring it along.
> Stick your name on it and lay it on the table. This will be the total
> honesty system. Everyone chip in and make sure nothing leaves via someones
> pocket, I sure would like to see all my tools, dies, Dynon, etc. be left
> behind as I need them just as much as the next guy:-). I only mention this
> as someone once pocketed a handheld out of a cockpit at a national
> gathering. I hate to even mention it but there it is.
>
> TeamRV is planning on performing their Oshkosh routine along with some just
> fun formation flying. A formation flight from the Ohio Valley RVators has
> issued a challenge on TeamRVs website about a competition. A nice little
> back and forth is going on right now:-). I have received an email from a
> member of The Falcon RV Squadron and am awaiting a confirmation. I have
> also heard from several pilots who are offering free RV rides to potential
> builders and builders.
>
> Direction via car:
>
> Off I-75, take exit 77 (KY route 595) and turn west. Go about 200 yards and
> make a right between the BP Station and the Shell Station. Go exactly 2.0
> miles and make a right onto Madison County Airport Road. The airport road
> will take you directly to my hangar.
>
> Via air:
>
> Anyone flying in, be sure and check the NOTAMs as there is restricted
> airspace on the east side of I-75 for the army depot.
>
> For you newbies; I have turned the Vans starter kits into pre-punched
> condition. If you want to work with some aluminum, please feel free to do
> so. There will many experienced builders here to show you some pointers.
> You will be able to deburr, dimple with squeezer and C-frame, back rivet,
> buck, pneumatic squeeze, hand squeeze, roll a rudder front, and install
> nutplates. There will also be composite pilots here and I will bring along
> some West System and glass. My first airplane was plastic so give a shout.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39 cell 859 625-2844
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Latches |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
Hi John,
Thanks for your interest in my canopy latch
That was an old E mail address, I think that Sam has corrected it now.
The preferred method of payment is by personal check.
Please send $25 + $2 for S&H to:
William Davis
119 Ridgeview Dr.
Eustis, FL 32726
Thanks, Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tailgummer@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy Latches
> --> RV-List message posted by: Tailgummer@aol.com
>
> Great idea!. How do I order one? BTW the e-mail address listed on Sam
> Buchanan's site kicked back.
> Thanks!!
John
> D'Onofrio (Tailgummer@aol.com)
>
>
Message 53
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|
| Subject: | Splatter paint for the interior |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
I am thinking of using splatter paint on my interior. I have seen a few RV's
this way and the owners seem to like the results. If anyone has an
experiences with it or has a web page, photos etc. I would appreciate the
info. I looked in the archives, could not find anything.
Don Mack
www.dmack.net
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Ruined HS Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
"This will happen again." - BUT, not as often if you will take several
scraps 2X4's anywhere from 4" to a foot long and anything else you have (and
thinner) and place under skins on both sides of the Avery C Frame so skin
is shimmed up and lays flat and doesn't pop up off of the dimple die in
bottom of frame. You just move the "shims/supports" around occasionally as
you move the skin's line of rivets across the dimpler.
Also, I made small rectangular piece of wood with hole to fit around the
bottom dimple die so there was a flat surface around the die (maybe 3/4" by
2.5"?) - supports the skin immediately around the die.
David
RV-6, Nederland, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ruined HS Skin
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Make the "whoops" dimple complete and just install a rivet, no one will
> notice. Or you can install a rivet and cover it with filler. I can tell
> you, this, will happen again!
>
>
> At 09:27 PM 2/24/04 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Oldenburg"
<foldenburg@earthlink.net>
> >
> >I start dimpling the Horizontal Stab left side skin tonight. The first
> >few dimples went fine, but then the male part of the die must of slipped
> >out of the skin between blows with the mallet.
> >
> >You can see the result here:
> >http://www.rv.oldsack.com/weblog.php?id=C0_1_1
> >
> >I'm really sick about this and I'm not quite sure what to do. I guess I
> >need to order a new skin from Vans. This is not the first screw up I've
> >had and I'm sure it is not the last.
> >
> >Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Fred
> >
> >Frederick W. Oldenburg Jr.
> >RV-7A Standard Kit - Empennage
> >http://www.rv.oldsack.com
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
> do not archive
>
>
Message 55
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| Subject: | GRT EFIS & Engine Monitor |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Listers...
Would anyone out there who has purchased the GRT EfIS Horizon or the
Graphical Engine Monitor please check in with a user report? Checked archives but
not
much out there. This looks like a good unit but I'd like to hear some
opinions from actual users if possible. Thanks.
Jerry Cochran
Message 56
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| Subject: | GRT EFIS & Engine Monitor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
They're a little too new right now for much of a review. I just got mine a
week or so ago and they are serial numbers 23,24,25! Working on getting
them installed. Installed the AHARS. I think they are great units, well
made and GRT has a good reputation.
You can see some of the pictures at http://home.kc.rr.com/N142DS which is in
the VERY early stages of being developed (so please no comments about the
web-site).
David Schaefer
RV6-A Finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry2DT@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: GRT EFIS & Engine Monitor
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Listers...
Would anyone out there who has purchased the GRT EfIS Horizon or the
Graphical Engine Monitor please check in with a user report? Checked
archives but not
much out there. This looks like a good unit but I'd like to hear some
opinions from actual users if possible. Thanks.
Jerry Cochran
Message 57
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|
| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/25/04 10:54:02 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jorear@new.rr.com writes:
<< As to scratches, I will probably get flamed here but I left the vinyl
covering on the skin whilst dimpling. >>
Just my own experience again but when I tried this I found that after eight
or ten dimples the female die would get clogged with little discs of vinyl so
that the dimples would no longer form properly. These were a real pain to dig
out of the female die so I returned to peeling the vinyl off in strips over
the rivet holes.
I used a medium size plastic mallet and a single moderate hit on each dimple,
except on 0.040 which requires two or three whacks, and got very satisfactory
dimples with very little or no marring of the surface. Just my $0.05.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 58
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| Subject: | GRT EFIS & Engine Monitor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Very impressive panel. At least now I don't feel like I've gone overboard by
planning for 2 GRT displays plus an MX-20. When you get the chance, how
about some larger size images of the panel and AHRS installation? BTW your
URL is case sensitive so it should be http://home.kc.rr.com/n142ds.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
>
> They're a little too new right now for much of a review. I
> just got mine a week or so ago and they are serial numbers
> 23,24,25! Working on getting them installed. Installed the
> AHARS. I think they are great units, well made and GRT has a
> good reputation.
>
> You can see some of the pictures at
> http://home.kc.rr.com/N142DS which is in the VERY early
> stages of being developed (so please no comments about the web-site).
>
> David Schaefer
> RV6-A Finishing
>
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