Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:12 AM - Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
2. 02:56 AM - Re: Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets (Jim Jewell)
3. 02:57 AM - Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. (Dana Overall)
4. 03:57 AM - Re: Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets (Jerry Calvert)
5. 04:27 AM - Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. (Jim Sears)
6. 05:58 AM - Re: New tires (Matt Jurotich)
7. 06:14 AM - Re: Re: broke a dimple die (linn walters)
8. 07:21 AM - Re: Re: broke a dimple die (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
9. 07:30 AM - Re: Re: broke a dimple die (Mickey Coggins)
10. 07:52 AM - Re: Splatter paint for the interior (Bill Dube)
11. 08:24 AM - Re: Re: broke a dimple die (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
12. 08:29 AM - RV10 websites (Evan and Megan Johnson)
13. 08:46 AM - Re: Re: broke a dimple die (Cammie Patch)
14. 09:11 AM - Oil on the Windscreen - Part 2 (dmedema@att.net)
15. 09:19 AM - Re: Quick Oil Drain (Ernest Kells)
16. 10:17 AM - Re: broke a dimple die (HCRV6@aol.com)
17. 10:17 AM - news flash (Wheeler North)
18. 10:18 AM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen - Part 2 (linn walters)
19. 10:45 AM - Re: Re: broke a dimple die (Jeff Orear)
20. 10:51 AM - Re: news flash (Ed Anderson)
21. 10:57 AM - Re: Quick Oil Drain (Schilling Karl)
22. 11:28 AM - Re: news flash (Doug Rozendaal)
23. 11:37 AM - Re: news flash (John Helms)
24. 11:46 AM - Re: Re: broke a dimple die (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG))
25. 12:11 PM - Sort of RV related (Will & Lynda Allen)
26. 12:31 PM - Re: New tires (Jim and Bev Cone)
27. 01:00 PM - Re: news flash (Cy Galley)
28. 01:01 PM - Re: news flash (Cy Galley)
29. 01:54 PM - Re: Rotaries Again (Kevin Horton)
30. 02:02 PM - Re: news flash (Bob U.)
31. 02:22 PM - Re: Rotaries Again (Tracy Crook)
32. 02:24 PM - Re: RV10 websites (AndrewTR30@aol.com)
33. 02:28 PM - Re: New StabCam! (Blanton Fortson)
34. 02:30 PM - Re: news flash (LarryRobertHelming)
35. 02:30 PM - Re: New StabCam! (Blanton Fortson)
36. 02:40 PM - Re: New StabCam! (Blanton Fortson)
37. 03:01 PM - Re: news flash (Ed Anderson)
38. 03:21 PM - Re: news flash (long) (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG))
39. 03:54 PM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen - Part 2 (Mike Robertson)
40. 04:27 PM - RV Jack (Doug Weiler)
41. 04:37 PM - >Re:Oil on the Windscreen part 2 (Bob n' Lu Olds)
42. 04:42 PM - Re: news flash (long) (Tedd McHenry)
43. 04:46 PM - Re: Oil on the Windscreen - Part 2 (kempthornes)
44. 04:53 PM - What are some engine (lucky macy)
45. 05:05 PM - Instruments For Sale (Fabian Lefler)
46. 05:33 PM - Re: What are some engine (Charlie Kuss)
47. 05:37 PM - Re: Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
48. 06:05 PM - Re: a titanium Ti-down ring note (Randy Simpson)
49. 06:22 PM - Re: What are some engine (linn walters)
50. 06:44 PM - Re: What are some engine (Jim Jewell)
51. 07:08 PM - Re: What are some engine (linn walters)
52. 07:35 PM - Re: What are some engine (linn walters)
53. 07:53 PM - Baffles (Mike Comeaux)
54. 08:14 PM - Re: What are some engine (Tom Gummo)
55. 08:42 PM - Re: What are some engine (JOHN STARN)
56. 08:59 PM - Re: Splatter paint for the interior (Bruce Gray)
57. 09:11 PM - Re: Re: broke a dimple die (Richard Sipp)
58. 09:33 PM - Cowl fasteners (Rob W M Shipley)
59. 09:39 PM - Re: news flash (long) (Richard Sipp)
60. 10:07 PM - Re: What are some engine (Charlie Kuss)
61. 10:13 PM - Re: What are some engine (Charlie Kuss)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
List, Seems like someone was selling Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets but I
can't locate the Website? Has anyone used these and/or point me in the right
direction? RV6-A getting closer!
Tom in Ohio
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Tom,
Try contacting Avery tools or email robbie@attawayair.com
<robbie@attawayair.com>
His web site is http://www.attawayair.com/rv6_products.htm
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
> List, Seems like someone was selling Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets
but I can't locate the Website? Has anyone used these and/or point me in
the right direction? RV6-A getting closer!
>
Tom in Ohio
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>Was doing a little poking through the flight planner in advance of going
>to Dana's fly-in; please be advised there is a TFR just to the NE of
>Madison airport, 0-5000' AGL. Please check notams so none of us get a
>special escort to the airport! :-)
I mentioned in a couple previous posts to stay west of I-75. While I-75 in
not in the TFR areas, use it as a reference point. Anywhere within 10 miles
of the airport, just keep this in mind. If you are coming in from the
northeast, plan your approach over the city of Richmond. If coming in from
the southeast come in over the city of Berea. The TFR is for the depot that
stores nerve gas, they don't want anyone over there. Dead east, take your
pick. Check your NOTAMs.
As a side note, yesterday I heard the Indy gang alone is coming in with
12-15 planes. I've heard from the Ohio Valley gang, the TN valley gang, the
SERV gang, Mid Atlantic gang (see, in these parts we use gang instead of
wing:-), TeamRV, Falcon RV Squadron plus so many individuals I've truly lost
count. Two and maybe four Super 8s will be here. People are coming in from
several states away. There are numerous families driving in so their
significant others can see an RV. Rides for these people would be nice,
hint, hint. BTW, Cleaveland Tools is now a signed on sponsor with a
................canopy cover.........as a door prize to add to the list. It
has turned into a rather large flyin.
As I heard a Concorde pilot say over the radio "We're here to have a jolly
good time".
Do me a favor, the ramp will fill up with RVs. If you are flying anything
other than an experimental airplane, please park in on the taxiway grass
that parallels the approach end of 36. Just keep your nose far enough off
the taxiway to let wingtips pass. Trying to save the ramp space. I'm
working with a couple CFIs to work as parkers but you may be on your own.
Since this a non controlled airport, be very vigilant on both your approach
and taxi work. It may even be a good idea to shut down prior to entering
the ramp, as I am sure it will be full of people looking at airplanes. Just
be careful, we want it to be a great opening weekend of the upcoming RV
flyin year.
Got a meeting with Hooters today about delivery service:-)
Thanks,
Dana Overall cell 859 625-2844
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee when you click here.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
The last time I checked, Avery doesn't carry them any longer.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
N296JC RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> Try contacting Avery tools or email robbie@attawayair.com
> <robbie@attawayair.com>
> His web site is http://www.attawayair.com/rv6_products.htm
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin"
<tcervin@valkyrie.net>
> >
> > List, Seems like someone was selling Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets
> but I can't locate the Website? Has anyone used these and/or point me in
> the right direction? RV6-A getting closer!
> >
> Tom in Ohio
> >
> >
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: This Saturday's Flyin is ON. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
Since I live just a spittin' distance from I39, I'm hoping Dana's event is a
success. Unlike our KY brethren who don't fly their airplanes very much, we
RV enthusiasts are always looking for a place to fly to. I found that out a
long time ago when I met the Indiana RV gang. They came all the way to
central KY just to congratulate me on Scooter's passing it's inspection!
Now, that was the cat's meow. I think we had about 11 RVs on the ramp at
Danville. Did that ever get the attention of our locals! :-)
I'd love to see Dana's event balloon into a major event just to show the
local EAA chapter that a fly-in can happen, even in central KY where pilots
only talk about flying. Goodness knows, we sure do talk about flying,
enough! Other than a air tour that they sponsored for a while, I have yet
to see a successful fly-in put on by this chapter because few in KY seem to
want to fly! It would be something to see the whole ramp filled with RVs!
Talk about getting their attention! :-)
I've already suggested to Dana that this would be a good event to hold at
Rough River state park, if it's as successful as he believes it will be.
There, we could have a weekend event! They have a lodge, food, a runway,
and lots of scenery to look at. They already welcome groups like the
Bonanza gang, the Grumman gang, the EZ gang, the Glastar gang, etc. There
is also a regional fly-in held there, each year. The word has gotten
around that Rough River park likes folks like us. I don't want to spoil
Dana's thunder in this because it is his show; but, it's something to think
about, if this event takes hold. I'd like to see how this event goes,
first; but, I think Dana may have taken on more than he ever imagined. I
certainly hope so! Even if half of the guys show up, it's still a big event
for us! :-)
I'm looking forward to meeting some of you guys! Scooter and I should be
there.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
EAA Tech Counselor
do not archive
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
Doug
I'd like a copy of that tie down jack photo. Sounds like a great idea.
Thanks
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Swales contractor to the
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mail to: <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
A feller sure can learn a lot just by reading. I haven't ordered my -10
yet, but it'll probably be early next year. New house and workshop come
first. After following this thread for a few days, my question is
whether the dimpling operations are mostly being done solo, or do y'all
have help??? Since there will be 2 partners in my -10 project, there
will be 2 of us working almost all the time.
So, do you have help, and if not, do you think it would help a lot???
Linn
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I am working primarily by myself and it seems to be going well but there
are a few times that extra hands come in handy. I think the biggest
challenge of having extra people would be planning a bit to have folks
used efficiently. I know of at least one -10 builder (Pete James #100)
that regularly uses a couple of helpers from his chapter on his -10. I
know that he's had good experiences as well as some that could have used
a little improvement. Most RV-10 specific discussions seem to occur on
the Yahoo Group so you might want to monitor that forum as well:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV10/ Pete is a regular contributor there
if you wanted to touch base with him directly.
Bob #105
-----Original Message-----
From: linn walters [mailto:lwalters2@cfl.rr.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: broke a dimple die
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
A feller sure can learn a lot just by reading. I haven't ordered my -10
yet, but it'll probably be early next year. New house and workshop come
first. After following this thread for a few days, my question is
whether the dimpling operations are mostly being done solo, or do y'all
have help??? Since there will be 2 partners in my -10 project, there
will be 2 of us working almost all the time.
So, do you have help, and if not, do you think it would help a lot???
Linn do not archive
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>A feller sure can learn a lot just by reading. I haven't ordered my -10
>yet, but it'll probably be early next year. New house and workshop come
>first. After following this thread for a few days, my question is
>whether the dimpling operations are mostly being done solo, or do y'all
>have help??? Since there will be 2 partners in my -10 project, there
>will be 2 of us working almost all the time.
>
>So, do you have help, and if not, do you think it would help a lot???
>Linn
Hi Linn,
Two people will make dimpling skins go about 3-5 times faster, in my
experience. Keep in mind, though, that dimpling is not the main
user of time. Almost all tasks will go at least twice as fast
with two people. Having building partners will make the
building process much more fun, as well.
If you've got some spare time, I'd look into going to one of
the build centers to get training and to build your tail kit. Sure
helped me a lot!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Splatter paint for the interior |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 09:46 PM 2/25/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
>
>I am thinking of using splatter paint on my interior. I have seen a few RV's
>this way and the owners seem to like the results. If anyone has an
>experiences with it or has a web page, photos etc. I would appreciate the
>info. I looked in the archives, could not find anything.
I've used splatter paint on cars quite a bit.
You can buy it in spray cans as "trunk" paint. There are two major
types. One has blobs of two or three different color (gray, white, black)
paint. The other has chunks of different color (gray, white, black) flock.
The blob style is better than the flock style.
I found that the surface was not at all durable. You MUST cover
the trunk paint with clearcoat if you plan to touch it at all. The bare
trunk paint is like primer. It rubs off pretty easily and gets dirty very
easily. With a clearcoat, it is very durable and stays clean.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Linn,
2 experienced builders can really kick butt on most operations if you
have the right mix of skills and tools. Example: One can be at the
c-frame and another on the pneumatic squeezer dimpling ribs and spars.
One newbee usually ends up in long discussions about this and that, and
does not get as much done as one person alone. Although more fun, its
less productive.
The new PP(pre punched) stuff makes having 2 experienced folks extremely
productive. The repetitive stuff(dimple and deburr, cleocoing etc.) goes
much faster. Less head scratching than before.
Mike
Do not archive
Repeat offender
-----Original Message-----
From: linn walters [mailto:lwalters2@cfl.rr.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: broke a dimple die
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
A feller sure can learn a lot just by reading. I haven't ordered my -10
yet, but it'll probably be early next year. New house and workshop come
first. After following this thread for a few days, my question is
whether the dimpling operations are mostly being done solo, or do y'all
have help??? Since there will be 2 partners in my -10 project, there
will be 2 of us working almost all the time.
So, do you have help, and if not, do you think it would help a lot???
Linn do not archive
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
==
==
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Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
OK....who has a list of the RV10 websites out there? I have found the 4 links on
Vans' site, (alll very nice) but I know there has to be more out there in the
ether. I am curious who has the most completed on the wing kit.....would like
to see assembly pictures.
Thanks....Evan
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cammie Patch" <cammie@sunvalley.net>
I got married about a year ago, and my husband has really been getting
excited about the RV. At first, I just had him scotchbrite-debur-move
clecoes, but he is to the point now that I point him in the right direction
and he can make parts as well as anyone. We can really knock out a lot of
work on a Sunday afternoon. It's much more enjoyable to work together, and
there are times when four hands are quite useful. Now I have a hard time
getting to the RVator before him.
I taught him how to fly too. ;-)
Cammie
fuse
Linn,
2 experienced builders can really kick butt on most operations if you
have the right mix of skills and tools. Example: One can be at the
c-frame and another on the pneumatic squeezer dimpling ribs and spars.
One newbee usually ends up in long discussions about this and that, and
does not get as much done as one person alone. Although more fun, its
less productive.
The new PP(pre punched) stuff makes having 2 experienced folks extremely
productive. The repetitive stuff(dimple and deburr, cleocoing etc.) goes
much faster. Less head scratching than before.
Mike
Do not archive
Repeat offender
=
Message 14
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| Subject: | Oil on the Windscreen - Part 2 |
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
Listers,
Regarding my oil leak last Saturday:
I took my spinner, prop, and flywheel off last night. The
"crankcase oil seal" (official Lycoming name) was pushed out
of the crankcase and riding on the crankshaft. The seal itself
looks fine. I checked my breather tube and it was free and
clear as well. I have an oil-air separator with a collection
tank. I've drained it periodically and gotten very little
fluid (mostly water) out of it. I highly doubt that it froze
over in flight on Saturday.
The question now is what do I do to prevent the seal from
coming back out of the engine. While I really like Wheeler's
idea of drilling and tapping holes in the bosses provided
and then using plates to hold the seal in place, that means
tearing the whole engine apart to get access to drill and
tap behind the crankshaft flange! I really don't want to
do that! Lycoming has a Service Instruction SI-1324A
that talks about the seal. Unfortunately, it isn't one of
the SIs on line on the Lycoming website. If anyone has it,
I'd appreciate finding out what it says.
Barring any other ideas, I'm probably going to use the contact
cement used by one of the repair places at Arlington and glue
it back in. I sure can't see how just pushing it back in will
work better than the original installation.
Any ideas out there?
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM in the (airplane) hospital
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Oil Drain |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
David and others:
Vans offers a quick drain plug for $50.00. See Part# F P5000 on page 12.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90% Complete - Electrical, Pre-paint
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
>
> Sounds overpriced to me. I looked it up though and there is a drain valve
at
> Spruce for 120.95.
>
> Part number AE80664H Lycoming Engines 1/2NPT $120.950
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/25/04 11:12:40 PM Pacific Standard Time, HCRV6@aol.com
writes:
<< Just my own experience again but when I tried this I found that after
eight
or ten dimples the female die would get clogged with little discs of vinyl
so
that the dimples would no longer form properly. >>
Sorry guys, right after I sent this I realized, again, that I should never
reply to the list after midnight. What I was thinking about was the time I
tried putting removable Scotch tape over the drilled holes to eliminate marking
of
the surface. The result of that experiment was what I described above and
had nothing to do with the vinyl. My bad!
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Paul Harvey included on his national morning radio report that last year saw
a 25% reduction in experiemntal accidents, with a 30% reduction in
fatalities, mostly due to safety efforts by such organizations as the EAA.
Thank you Paul
http://www.paulharvey.com/email_form.shtml
if you would like to thank him yourself
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Oil on the Windscreen - Part 2 |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
dmedema@att.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
>Listers,
>
>Regarding my oil leak last Saturday:
>
>I took my spinner, prop, and flywheel off last night. The
>"crankcase oil seal" (official Lycoming name) was pushed out
>of the crankcase and riding on the crankshaft. The seal itself
>looks fine. I checked my breather tube and it was free and
>clear as well. I have an oil-air separator with a collection
>tank. I've drained it periodically and gotten very little
>fluid (mostly water) out of it. I highly doubt that it froze
>over in flight on Saturday.
>
>The question now is what do I do to prevent the seal from
>coming back out of the engine. While I really like Wheeler's
>idea of drilling and tapping holes in the bosses provided
>and then using plates to hold the seal in place, that means
>tearing the whole engine apart to get access to drill and
>tap behind the crankshaft flange! I really don't want to
>do that! Lycoming has a Service Instruction SI-1324A
>that talks about the seal. Unfortunately, it isn't one of
>the SIs on line on the Lycoming website. If anyone has it,
>I'd appreciate finding out what it says.
>
>Barring any other ideas, I'm probably going to use the contact
>cement used by one of the repair places at Arlington and glue
>it back in. I sure can't see how just pushing it back in will
>work better than the original installation.
>
>Any ideas out there?
>
>Doug Medema
>RV-6A N276DM in the (airplane) hospital
>
Clean the area where the seal goes very, very good. You can use carb
cleaner and q-tips to clean the groove, and alcohol as a final cleaning
step. Let dry thoroughly and do the contact cement thing. Be liberal
with the contact cement without being sloppy and insert the seal wet.
Use a small piece of wood (thickness of seal) and a screwdriver to make
sure the seal is seated all the way in. Use the wood against the seal
and use the flange as a fulcrum point for the screwdriver, working
around the seal evenly.
Linn ..... Not an airplane MD, nor do I play one on TV!!!
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Cammie:
Do you have a sister???? ;
)
DO Not Archive
Regards,
Jeff Orear (happily married to a non-aviator)
RV6A
Panel
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cammie Patch" <cammie@sunvalley.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: broke a dimple die
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Cammie Patch" <cammie@sunvalley.net>
>
> I got married about a year ago, and my husband has really been getting
> excited about the RV. At first, I just had him scotchbrite-debur-move
> clecoes, but he is to the point now that I point him in the right
direction
> and he can make parts as well as anyone. We can really knock out a lot of
> work on a Sunday afternoon. It's much more enjoyable to work together, and
> there are times when four hands are quite useful. Now I have a hard time
> getting to the RVator before him.
> I taught him how to fly too. ;-)
>
> Cammie
> fuse
>
>
> Linn,
>
> 2 experienced builders can really kick butt on most operations if you
> have the right mix of skills and tools. Example: One can be at the
> c-frame and another on the pneumatic squeezer dimpling ribs and spars.
>
> One newbee usually ends up in long discussions about this and that, and
> does not get as much done as one person alone. Although more fun, its
> less productive.
>
> The new PP(pre punched) stuff makes having 2 experienced folks extremely
> productive. The repetitive stuff(dimple and deburr, cleocoing etc.) goes
> much faster. Less head scratching than before.
>
>
> Mike
> Do not archive
> Repeat offender
>
> >
>
>
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Great news, too bad the insurance companies will ignore it.
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: news flash
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Paul Harvey included on his national morning radio report that last year
saw
> a 25% reduction in experiemntal accidents, with a 30% reduction in
> fatalities, mostly due to safety efforts by such organizations as the EAA.
>
> Thank you Paul
>
> http://www.paulharvey.com/email_form.shtml
>
> if you would like to thank him yourself
>
>
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling@ssfhs.org>
Check out the one's listed on E-Bay. #2463115031
-----Original Message-----
From: David Taylor [mailto:rv7@cox.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Quick Oil Drain
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
Sounds overpriced to me. I looked it up though and there is a drain valve at
Spruce for 120.95.
Part number AE80664H Lycoming Engines 1/2NPT $120.950
do not archive
-David Taylor
Warner Robins, GA
Wing Tanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Brooks" <BrooksRV6@webtv.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Quick Oil Drain
> --> RV-List message posted by: BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
>
> I think the Ebay description referencing a $120 dollar valve in the ACS
> catalog is a little optimistic. A google search for Curtis CCB-37000
> turned up several for less than $18. Sacramento Sky Ranch has them on
> Ebay for $25 buy it now.
>
>
__________________________________
The information contained in this email and any accompanying documents is
intended for the sole use of the recipient to whom it is addressed, and may
contain information that is privileged, confidential, and prohibited from
disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, or
authorized to receive this on behalf of the recipient, you are hereby
notified that any review, use, disclosure, copying, or distribution is
prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient(s), please contact the
sender by e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. Thank you.
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I wonder if the huge number of RVs tilt the odds. If you took the RVs out
of the mix, I wonder if the industry would have shown similar
improvement??????
These are great airplanes. Not all homebuilts are.....
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Paul Harvey included on his national morning radio report that last year
saw
> a 25% reduction in experiemntal accidents, with a 30% reduction in
> fatalities, mostly due to safety efforts by such organizations as the EAA.
>
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
I don't think, Ed, that you realize just how supportive some of these
insurance companies have been over the years.
The company that underwrites our VanGuard Program is just now getting below
100% on their loss ratio for the life of the program. That means that
without taking their expenses into account, they are just now after 4.5
years getting to the point where they've taken in as much money as they've
paid out in claims over that time period. It'll still be a long while with
a low level of claims before they'll make money.
The losses had been running at 130%. So, if they've been ignoring anything,
it's been the fact that they've been losing money on homebuilts. I think
they deserve to be applauded for not pulling out of the homebuilt market
after performance like that. They easily could have.
In any event, if the risk pool (experimentals in general, and RV's
specifically) has a good loss record for long enough, competition will drive
the rates down.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: news flash
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Great news, too bad the insurance companies will ignore it.
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: news flash
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Paul Harvey included on his national morning radio report that last year
saw
> a 25% reduction in experiemntal accidents, with a 30% reduction in
> fatalities, mostly due to safety efforts by such organizations as the EAA.
>
> Thank you Paul
>
> http://www.paulharvey.com/email_form.shtml
>
> if you would like to thank him yourself
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
Cammie,
Please keep my email address in case you ever get tired of him.
Do Not Archive
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Cammie Patch [mailto:cammie@sunvalley.net]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: broke a dimple die
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cammie Patch" <cammie@sunvalley.net>
I got married about a year ago, and my husband has really been getting
excited about the RV. At first, I just had him scotchbrite-debur-move
clecoes, but he is to the point now that I point him in the right
direction and he can make parts as well as anyone. We can really knock
out a lot of work on a Sunday afternoon. It's much more enjoyable to
work together, and there are times when four hands are quite useful. Now
I have a hard time getting to the RVator before him. I taught him how to
fly too. ;-)
Cammie
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Sort of RV related |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@comcast.net>
I'm working on an RV project web site and am wondering if anyone out there
is using Infinology.com as their web hosting site? They have good prices
and space but I want to make sure they are a reliable or "real" company
before paying them.
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa
RV8 wings
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
I think that the Michelin tires are the best.
I jack my plane up by using a pipe plug with a bolt glued into the cup screwed
into the tie down point. I use a long ram jack, but you could use a small bottle
jack on a stable base.
Jim Cone
3-peat Offender
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Great As RVs are, they are still airplanes with which PILOTS make mistakes. If
you check the January 2004 Experimenter I talked about these statistics a couple
of months ago.
Amateur Flying Safety Improves
While personal flying and instruction accidents went down 2.9% and 7.4%, the number
of amateur accidents decreased by a whopping 24.8%. Note that the number
of fatalities in the amateur ranks decreased which was opposite the trend in personal
flying and flight instruction.
Here is a comparison of the numbers from FY '02 to FY '03 for each category:
Personal Flight 2001 2002 Percent Change
Total Accidents 1089 1057 2.9% Decrease
Fatal Accidents 20 28 40% Increase
Fatalities 40 50 25% Increase
Instructional Flight
Total Accidents 241 223 7.4% Decrease
Fatal Accidents 20 28 40% Increase
Fatalities 40 50 25% Increase
Amateur Built
Total Accidents 218 164 24.8% Decrease
Fatal Accidents 66 42 36.4% Decrease
Fatalities 81 57 29.6% Decrease
I would like to think that the improvement is due to more builders taking advantage
of our three great programs. The Technical Counselor program making sure
our amateur built planes are as good or better structurally than certified. The
Flight Advisor program that gets the new pilot builder off to a safe start.
The EAA Transition Training waiver that makes it possible for the new builder-pilot
to experience flying a plane very similar to the one he built and is going
to test fly. We have made great strides in reducing accidents in the first
few test hours.
Before we get too smug and complacent, we still need to look at the numbers another
way. More of our amateur builders died than in either personal flight or
during instruction. Yes, we have made a good reduction but our ratio of 1 fatality
in 3 accidents is still way too high and needs further improvement.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: news flash
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
> I wonder if the huge number of RVs tilt the odds. If you took the RVs out
> of the mix, I wonder if the industry would have shown similar
> improvement??????
>
> These are great airplanes. Not all homebuilts are.....
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> >
> > Paul Harvey included on his national morning radio report that last year
> saw
> > a 25% reduction in experiemntal accidents, with a 30% reduction in
> > fatalities, mostly due to safety efforts by such organizations as the EAA.
> >
>
>
>
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Part II form the second page..
Let's not rest until this ratio is as low as personal flight which is only 1 fatality
in 21 accidents.
Much work needs to be done by our designers to improve the crash-worthiness of
both certified and non-certified aircraft. It is not enough to design a plane
that flies well, it needs to protect the occupants at the time of an accident.
But even that isn't enough as many accidents are pilot error. You and I as Technical
Counselors and Flight Advisors need to continue our task of pilot education,
of accident prevention.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or sportpilot@eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: news flash
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
> I wonder if the huge number of RVs tilt the odds. If you took the RVs out
> of the mix, I wonder if the industry would have shown similar
> improvement??????
>
> These are great airplanes. Not all homebuilts are.....
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> >
> > Paul Harvey included on his national morning radio report that last year
> saw
> > a 25% reduction in experiemntal accidents, with a 30% reduction in
> > fatalities, mostly due to safety efforts by such organizations as the EAA.
> >
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rotaries Again |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Kirby" <davewendi@earthlink.net>
>
>I read somewhere that the new Renesis rotary
>has 247 HP but only 164 LB/FT of torque. What does this mean for
>us? Would this cause the engine to be sluggish? May not be good in
>a go around situation? Anybody have any
>thoughts? Never looked to see what kind of torque a Lycoming
>has. Anyone know?
>
You can turn 247 hp into as much torque as you want, depending on
what reduction ratio you use in the Prop Speed Reduction Unit.
See: http://www.revsearch.com/dynamometer/torque_vs_horsepower.html
hp = torque * RPM / 5252 (with torque measured in ft-lb)
or, torque = hp *5252/RPM
So, if we design the PSRU to spin the prop at 2500 rpm when the
engine is at its peak power, we'll have a torque of 247 * 5252/2500
= 519 ft-lb at the prop (ignoring the losses in the PSRU).
It would be interesting to see the graph of power vs rpm (which is
mathematically equivalent to the curve of torque vs rpm). If you use
a fixed pitch prop, you would like the torque to be as high as
possible over the rpm range of interest. If you use a constant speed
prop this is less important, as the engine should come up to full rpm
very quickly when you advance the power.
Whether or not the engine is "good" in a go-around will depend on
what prop you use (i.e. how efficient is the prop, is it fixed pitch
or constant speed), how well the fuel control responds to quick
throttle movements, etc.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Cy Galley wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>Great As RVs are, they are still airplanes with which PILOTS make mistakes. If
you check the January 2004 Experimenter I talked about these statistics a couple
of months ago.
>Amateur Flying Safety Improves
>
>While personal flying and instruction accidents went down 2.9% and 7.4%, the number
of amateur accidents decreased by a whopping 24.8%. Note that the number
of fatalities in the amateur ranks decreased which was opposite the trend in
personal flying and flight instruction.
>
>
>Here is a comparison of the numbers from FY '02 to FY '03 for each category:
>
>
>Personal Flight 2001 2002 Percent Change
>
>Total Accidents 1089 1057 2.9% Decrease
>
>Fatal Accidents 20 28 40% Increase
>
>Fatalities 40 50 25% Increase
>
>Instructional Flight
>
>Total Accidents 241 223 7.4% Decrease
>
>Fatal Accidents 20 28 40% Increase
>
>Fatalities 40 50 25% Increase
>
>Amateur Built
>
>Total Accidents 218 164 24.8% Decrease
>
>Fatal Accidents 66 42 36.4% Decrease
>
>Fatalities 81 57 29.6% Decrease
>
>I would like to think that the improvement is due to more builders taking advantage
of our three great programs. The Technical Counselor program making sure
our amateur built planes are as good or better structurally than certified. The
Flight Advisor program that gets the new pilot builder off to a safe start.
The EAA Transition Training waiver that makes it possible for the new builder-pilot
to experience flying a plane very similar to the one he built and is going
to test fly. We have made great strides in reducing accidents in the first
few test hours.
>
>Before we get too smug and complacent, we still need to look at the numbers another
way. More of our amateur builders died than in either personal flight or
during instruction. Yes, we have made a good reduction but our ratio of 1 fatality
in 3 accidents is still way too high and needs further improvement.
>
=======================================
I suspect the fleet is GROWING each year.
Without knowing more details and size of the fleet each year....
the picture is hardly a complete one and impossible to tell where
we need to improve.
Bob
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Rotaries Again |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Kirby" <davewendi@earthlink.net>
>
>I read somewhere that the new Renesis rotary
>has 247 HP but only 164 LB/FT of torque. What does this mean for
>us? Would this cause the engine to be sluggish? May not be good in
>a go around situation? Anybody have any
>thoughts? Never looked to see what kind of torque a Lycoming
>has. Anyone know?
>
You can turn 247 hp into as much torque as you want, depending on
what reduction ratio you use in the Prop Speed Reduction Unit.
See: http://www.revsearch.com/dynamometer/torque_vs_horsepower.html
hp torque * RPM / 5252 (with torque measured in ft-lb)
or, torque hp *5252/RPM
So, if we design the PSRU to spin the prop at 2500 rpm when the
engine is at its peak power, we'll have a torque of 247 * 5252/2500
519 ft-lb at the prop (ignoring the losses in the PSRU).
It would be interesting to see the graph of power vs rpm (which is
mathematically equivalent to the curve of torque vs rpm). If you use
a fixed pitch prop, you would like the torque to be as high as
possible over the rpm range of interest. If you use a constant speed
prop this is less important, as the engine should come up to full rpm
very quickly when you advance the power.
Whether or not the engine is "good" in a go-around will depend on
what prop you use (i.e. how efficient is the prop, is it fixed pitch
or constant speed), how well the fuel control responds to quick
throttle movements, etc.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
All Good points except that If a prop does not respond in this situation it means
it was not even close to being properly matched to the engine at full throttle.
Power required to turn a fixed pitch prop varies as the CUBE of RPM. I know of
no engine which has a power curve this steep. If an engine bogs or does not
respond at low rpm, look for the problem elsewhere.
Tracy Crook
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10 websites |
--> RV-List message posted by: AndrewTR30@aol.com
Doug Peterson is really charging ahead. I haven't had time to go see his
project yet.
http://members.cox.net/jgalban/index.html
Andrew
Phoenix
Rudder
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: New StabCam! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Blanton Fortson <blanton@alaska.net>
Looks like fun. I've got a 500 line "broadcast quality" Elmo "lipstick
cam" for which I wired the tip of the vertical stab as well as the L
wingtip of my 206. Sold the 206 but kept the cam for the next plane!
B.
http://homepage.mac.com/blanton
On Feb 17, 2004, at 7:15 AM, Bill VonDane wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
> I've been working on installing a bullet cam in my vertical
> stabilizer....
>
> http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/stabcam/index.htm
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 34
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
It should make rates come down for models with accessories that have a
proven record regarding losses/accidents. The pilot is still the biggest
factor in the equation with lots of physiological considerations and
differences plus current flying experience, but pilots flying RVs are
already telling the insurance man something. At least they have chosen to
fly one of the best with a proven airframe record.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
Firewall Forward do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: news flash
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Great news, too bad the insurance companies will ignore it.
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: news flash
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> >
> > Paul Harvey included on his national morning radio report that last year
> saw
> > a 25% reduction in experiemntal accidents, with a 30% reduction in
> > fatalities, mostly due to safety efforts by such organizations as the
EAA.
> >
> > Thank you Paul
> >
> > http://www.paulharvey.com/email_form.shtml
> >
> > if you would like to thank him yourself
> >
> >
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: New StabCam! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Blanton Fortson <blanton@alaska.net>
Elmo makes a wide angle lens for their lipstick cam.
B.
http://homepage.mac.com/blanton
On Feb 17, 2004, at 7:44 AM, lucky macy wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> cool. I saw Larry's example too and am darn glad you pointed out the
> lense
> coverage 'cause I agree a wider field of view would be nice to have.
> If you
> can solve that one please update to the list.
>
> lucky
>
>
>> From: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>> Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com, rv8list@yahoogroups.com, vansairforce
>> <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
>> Subject: RV-List: New StabCam!
>> Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 09:15:22 -0700
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>>
>> I've been working on installing a bullet cam in my vertical
>> stabilizer....
>>
>> http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/stabcam/index.htm
>>
>>
>> -Bill VonDane
>> EAA Tech Counselor
>> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
>> www.vondane.com
>> www.creativair.com
>> www.epanelbuilder.com
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: New StabCam! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Blanton Fortson <blanton@alaska.net>
Here are some Elmo links:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home;jsessionid=A2z6WykNxM!
1845882163?
ci=1&sb=ps&pn=1&sq=desc&InitialSearch=yes&O=SearchBar&A=search&Q=*&shs=e
lmo+lipstick+cam&image.x=7&image.y=7
lenses: http://www.elmousa.com/cctv/
http://www.elmousa.com/cctv/
B.
http://homepage.mac.com/blanton
On Feb 17, 2004, at 8:58 AM, Larry Bowen wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> The camera I'm using looks to have the same field of view as Bill's.
> I'm
> not too concerned about it yet though. It looks too tight in the
> hanger,
> but I'm hoping it will be just right in the air. I've seem wider FOV
> lenses, and they can have the illusion of wearing coke-bottle glasses
> inside a fishbowl - something I'd rather avoid.
>
> I used shielded 20 AWG from the bullet cam to the camcorder (nice and
> skinny), using Electric Bob's technique for putting the BNC end on. I
> have some interference while transmitting too, but it's very dependant
> upon where all the **test equipment and hook-ups** are laid out inside
> the
> **metal building**. Again, I'm optimistic this problem will go away
> once
> everything is hooked up "for real".
>
> -
> Larry Bowen, RV-8 FWF
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> lucky macy said:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>>
>> cool. I saw Larry's example too and am darn glad you pointed out the
>> lense
>> coverage 'cause I agree a wider field of view would be nice to have.
>> If
>> you
>> can solve that one please update to the list.
>>
>> lucky
>>
>>
>>> From: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>>> Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>> To: rv-list@matronics.com, rv8list@yahoogroups.com, vansairforce
>>> <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Subject: RV-List: New StabCam!
>>> Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 09:15:22 -0700
>>>
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>>>
>>> I've been working on installing a bullet cam in my vertical
>>> stabilizer....
>>>
>>> http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/stabcam/index.htm
>>>
>>>
>>> -Bill VonDane
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 37
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
From: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: news flash
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
>
> I don't think, Ed, that you realize just how supportive some of these
> insurance companies have been over the years.
>
> The company that underwrites our VanGuard Program is just now getting
below
> 100% on their loss ratio for the life of the program. That means that
> without taking their expenses into account, they are just now after 4.5
> years getting to the point where they've taken in as much money as they've
> paid out in claims over that time period. It'll still be a long while
with
> a low level of claims before they'll make money.
>
> The losses had been running at 130%. So, if they've been ignoring
anything,
> it's been the fact that they've been losing money on homebuilts. I think
> they deserve to be applauded for not pulling out of the homebuilt market
> after performance like that. They easily could have.
>
> In any event, if the risk pool (experimentals in general, and RV's
> specifically) has a good loss record for long enough, competition will
drive
> the rates down.
>
> JT
Ok, John, I stand corrected. Always good to have someone step in who
actually knows what's going on. I guess it always seems that insurance
companies appear to take any bad news (9/11 for example) as a reason to
raise rates across the board regardless of the actual experience in that
area. For instance, I have never seen a reductions in rates regardless of
how good the GA accident rates might have improve. But, then that is my
limited experience and I guess from what you relate, the way the insurance
companies see it - that is the time when they recovery losses and perhaps
make a profit. I too have read that the companies investment returns sort
of subsidized insurance companies loss areas in the past - something they
are apparently no longer willing to do. Can't really blame them for that.
Business is business and without a profit they do cease to exist.
Now, if I could just find that those companies that would ensure Rotary (or
other alternative) engine powered conversions, all would be well. I am
still insured, but am seriously considering dropping my hull insurance due
to the high cost of premiums. I know the general refusal for most companies
to provide hull insurance for self rolled auto conversions, but are any out
there providing Liability coverage?
My apologies to you and the other agents who do an excellent job of keeping
us guys insured - despite our grousing {:>)
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
Message 38
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| Subject: | news flash (long) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
Whilst any reduction in accidents and fatalities is good news, I'm
wondering what the figures really mean.
* The 25% reduction... I assume because it was on a national report, it
applies to nationwide.
* How was the weather last year? Was it really *bad*, so that people
were flying less? Or was it really *good*, so that there were less
accidents? How about the year before?
* How about all the TFRs and other restrictions? How much did they
affect things?
* Did the price of avgas go up so that people fly less?
* Did the price of kits go down, so that many people were building
instead of flying?
* Did the accident stats include the V-22 Osprey and Challenger, for
example?
* Have people been shifting from the Experimental category to the
Microlight category?
My guess -- a real 25% reduction in accidents would require a radical
change in behaviour. Which implies a radical change in attitude of
pretty much all experimental category pilots. And no corresponding
change in pilots of factory-built aircraft. Maybe I'm a cynic, but this
sounded too fishy to be true.
So I spent a couple of hours Googling for homebuilt, experimental,
accident, statistics. Here's what I found.
1. At the EAA site, I found
http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/pr/040216_homebuilt.html
which basically says the same as what was quoted, except
* it claims a 36% reduction in fatal accidents,
* it states that the stats are for the year ended 30 Sept 03,
* it says that the stats were based on figures released by the FAA
* it says the GA accident rate increased slightly during that year
* it uses the words homebuilt or amateurbuilt rather than experimental
There's no reference here to what the figures actually are, nor where at
the FAA they might be found.
This same press release was quoted here and there at other Web sites.
2. However, the NTSB stats don't seem to cover 2002/2003... eg
http://www.ntsb.gov/publictn/2003/ARG0302.pdf gives details for 1999.
Some quotes (taken somewhat out of context for brevity's sake) from this
document:
"Even with the additional operating limitations placed on amateurbuilt
aircraft, the percentage of fatal accidents for amateur-built
aircraft was almost twice as high as for similar manufactured
aircraft in 1999 (27.5% versus 15.1%, respectively). The
percentage of accidents in which the aircraft was destroyed is
also noticeably higher for amateur-built than for manufactured
aircraft (27.1% versus 17.4%, respectively)."
"A comparison of the accident rate per 100,000 hours flown
indicates that the rate is considerably higher for amateur-built
than for manufactured aircraft. The amateur-built accident rate
ranged from 41.2 to 25.1 accidents per 100,000 hours between
1995 and 1999, and was equal to 25.5 accidents per 100,000
hours in 1999. The accident rate for manufactured, single-engine
piston airplanes and rotorcraft remained between 12.3 and 9.9
per 100,000 hours during the same period. The fatal accident
rate for amateur-built aircraft decreased from a high of 11.6 fatal
accidents per 100,000 flight hours in 1995, to 6.8 fatal accidents
per 100,000 flight hours in 1999. The fatal accident rate for
similar manufactured aircraft was only one-fourth that of amateurbuilt
aircraft during the same period, ranging between 2.3
accidents per 100,000 hours in 1995 and 1.5 fatal accidents
per 100,000 hours in 1999."
"Of the 218 amateur-built and 869 manufactured aircraft accidents
during 1999 with findings available, ..."
So, (unless there were equally major reductions in the years 2000-2002),
reductions of 25% and 36% would mean that the amateur-built accident and
fatality rates are still significantly higher than for manufactured
aircraft.
I'm keeping an open mind, and happy to be persuaded otherwise, but my
opinion, based on the limited facts, is:
1. Mostl likely, this is a statistical blip -- notice that amateur-built
accident rates varied between 41.2 to 25.1 between 1995 and 1999.
2. Alternatively, EAA's stats are in error.
3. Least likely, there's been an actual, statistically significant,
change in accident rates for homebuilts.
Frank
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> > Paul Harvey included on his national morning radio report that last
> > year saw
> > a 25% reduction in experiemntal accidents, with a 30% reduction in
> > fatalities, mostly due to safety efforts by such organizations as
> > the EAA.
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
Message 39
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| Subject: | Oil on the Windscreen - Part 2 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Diug,
I have a copy of SI 1324A. If you will send me a fax number off-line, I
will faxx it to you
Mike Robertson
DO Not Archive
>From: dmedema@att.net
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Oil on the Windscreen - Part 2
>Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 17:10:53 +0000
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
>Listers,
>
>Regarding my oil leak last Saturday:
>
>I took my spinner, prop, and flywheel off last night. The
>"crankcase oil seal" (official Lycoming name) was pushed out
>of the crankcase and riding on the crankshaft. The seal itself
>looks fine. I checked my breather tube and it was free and
>clear as well. I have an oil-air separator with a collection
>tank. I've drained it periodically and gotten very little
>fluid (mostly water) out of it. I highly doubt that it froze
>over in flight on Saturday.
>
>The question now is what do I do to prevent the seal from
>coming back out of the engine. While I really like Wheeler's
>idea of drilling and tapping holes in the bosses provided
>and then using plates to hold the seal in place, that means
>tearing the whole engine apart to get access to drill and
>tap behind the crankshaft flange! I really don't want to
>do that! Lycoming has a Service Instruction SI-1324A
>that talks about the seal. Unfortunately, it isn't one of
>the SIs on line on the Lycoming website. If anyone has it,
>I'd appreciate finding out what it says.
>
>Barring any other ideas, I'm probably going to use the contact
>cement used by one of the repair places at Arlington and glue
>it back in. I sure can't see how just pushing it back in will
>work better than the original installation.
>
>Any ideas out there?
>
>Doug Medema
>RV-6A N276DM in the (airplane) hospital
>
>
Dream of owning a home? Find out how in the First-time Home Buying Guide.
Message 40
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
Fellow Listers:
Several people were interested in the RV jack I mentioned. I posted the
photos on the MN Wing website here:
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/mnwing/id59.htm
Doug Weiler
RV-4
pres, MN Wing
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:Oil on the Windscreen part 2 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks@aol.com>
Your crankshaft flange has a hole in it,doesn't it ? You can work through the hole
to drill & tap a hole( #6) for screws to hold the seal retainer ring. DON'T
drill completely through the case !! It only takes screws about 5/16" long.
I used Loctite on the screws.
My opinion only.
Bob Olds RV-4 , Lyc. O-320 B3A
Charleston,Arkansas
Message 42
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| Subject: | news flash (long) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
In 1999 I did an informal survey of RV pilots in an attempt to quantify the
fleet hours for the year, so that I could calculate accident rates to compare
to the general aviation rates quoted by the NTSB. You can see the full results
at
http://www.vansairforce.org/articles/pilotage/pil_rv_safety.shtml
Briefly, the results indicated an accident rate of between 5.8 and 10.8 per
100,000 flying hours (depending on assumptions), as compared to the GA rate of
7.12 for the same period. The fatal accident rate for RVs was between 0.8 and
1.5 per 100,000 flying hours (again, depending on assumptions), as compared to
the GA rate of 1.35.
My results have to be viewed with some skepticism because the sampling method
wasn't very random. (I relied on voluntary replies to an RV List posting to
determine fleet flying hours.) However, I think they provide a reasonable
indication that RV accident rates are more-or-less in line with general
aviation.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Oil on the Windscreen - Part 2 |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 09:10 AM 2/26/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
How about using epoxy glue to hold the plates in place? Or, use 3M Ultra
tape - amazing stuff.
hal
>The question now is what do I do to prevent the seal from
>coming back out of the engine. While I really like Wheeler's
>idea of drilling and tapping holes in the bosses provided
>and then using plates to hold the seal in place, that means
>tearing the whole engine apart to get access to drill and
>tap behind the crankshaft flange!
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | What are some engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
I'm learning that the shops I know of don't inspect/repair the cases - they
send out. I figure why not just send a suspect cracked case to them instead
but I can't give them to give me the names of those overhaul shops with FAA
certified welders.
Anyone know? I heard someone say there may be one in TX and one in OK that
actually does their own welding to certified standards.
While I'm at it, if one was motivated to take apart ones own engine, is the
Lycoming overhaul manual good enough to follow or do you really need an A&P
or similar person holding your hand the whole way if you've never done it
before?
Thanks,
lucky
Message 45
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|
<RV-7@yahoogroups.com>, <rv7-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Instruments For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Fabian Lefler" <fablef@bellsouth.net>
I have a few items for sale. Here is a list:
ICOM A-200
GARMIN GTX327
AMERIKING AK-350
GPS 196
Altimeter
United VSI
MONROY ADT-200
DYNON
All items are brand new. See a detailed list here: http://www.affordablepanels.com/forsale2.htm
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: What are some engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Lucky,
Send your cases to Divco in Tulsa. Great people, good prices and excellent workmanship.
http://www.divcoinc.com/
Charlie Kuss
PS I tried to send you photos of my ELT installation, but your Hotmail account
bounced them back to me. I think you need to check your mail more often. :-)
>--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
>I'm learning that the shops I know of don't inspect/repair the cases - they
>send out. I figure why not just send a suspect cracked case to them instead
>but I can't give them to give me the names of those overhaul shops with FAA
>certified welders.
>
>Anyone know? I heard someone say there may be one in TX and one in OK that
>actually does their own welding to certified standards.
>
>While I'm at it, if one was motivated to take apart ones own engine, is the
>Lycoming overhaul manual good enough to follow or do you really need an A&P
>or similar person holding your hand the whole way if you've never done it
>before?
>
>Thanks,
>lucky
>
>
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Thanks Guys .....Just sent my order to Robbie.
Tom in Ohio
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> Try contacting Avery tools or email robbie@attawayair.com
> <robbie@attawayair.com>
> His web site is http://www.attawayair.com/rv6_products.htm
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin"
<tcervin@valkyrie.net>
> >
> > List, Seems like someone was selling Stainless Wheel Pants Brackets
> but I can't locate the Website? Has anyone used these and/or point me in
> the right direction? RV6-A getting closer!
> >
> Tom in Ohio
> >
> >
>
>
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | re: a titanium Ti-down ring note |
--> RV-List message posted by: Randy Simpson <airtime@proaxis.com>
Hi again Chuck,
There's been alot of people asking about those ti tie-down rings I plan to
make.
I have it figured out how to make them now, just have to get a thread
roller and the right dia. of ti material, and the time to do it.
My good friend Kelly Lunsford (owner of Lunsford Racing) will roll the
threads and turn down the dia of the rest of the ring to 5/16" for me on
one of his Tornos Swiss CNC machines before I bend the ring into the loop
on a special jig, while redhot.
I'll have to make some and test them before deciding if I'll need to weld
he loop closed. Welding titanium requires it be done in a weld tank,
backfilled with inert gas, for best results.
I'll definately let you and the RV-list know when I have them
available...I'm sure ALL my RV flying Ti-down customers will want a pair or
three of them.
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Airtime Mfg.
http://www.airtimemfg.com
---------
At 12:50 PM 2/25/04 +0000, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>
>Hi Randy,
>
>Glad to hear your still providing the best tie-downs.
>
>Any word on when you will be offering Ti tie down RINGS - Sure would like
>to ditch the heavy ones for (3) Ti rings.
>
>Best wishes,
>
>Chuck Rowbotham
>RV-8A
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: What are some engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
lucky macy wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
>I'm learning that the shops I know of don't inspect/repair the cases - they
>send out. I figure why not just send a suspect cracked case to them instead
>but I can't give them to give me the names of those overhaul shops with FAA
>certified welders.
>
Go to Divco for the case overhaul. http://www.divcoinc.com/
>Anyone know? I heard someone say there may be one in TX and one in OK that
>actually does their own welding to certified standards.
>
Divco is in TX.
>While I'm at it, if one was motivated to take apart ones own engine, is the
>Lycoming overhaul manual good enough to follow or do you really need an A&P
>or similar person holding your hand the whole way if you've never done it
>before?
>
Absolutely! Well, almost. Get the Lycoming overhaul and parts
manuals. The overhaul manual is pretty generic ...... but the parts
manual is engine model specific, and covers a range of models. In
otherwords, don't expect to find ALL the O-360s in one parts manual.
Well, I don't know what your abilities are, but if you can read and
follow directions well ..... and are handy with tools ..... you'll be
able to do it solo. If you have an A&P that'll coach you ..... pass him
some bucks .... that's the best way. These engines are rock-simple.
You will have to have a torque wrench ..... get a good quality clicker
..... a caliper .... feeler gauges .... a few sockets ...... and a
couple of combo wrenches. It doesn't get much simpler than that.
Linn
>
>Thanks,
>lucky
>
>
>
>
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: What are some engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Lucky,
There was a time when I thought that anyone could tear down any engine. By
his actions a friend convinced me that it was not so. As far as putting
engines together un-assisted with a manual or not is concerned, all bets are
off as far as the non mechanical types are concerned.
If you have disassembled and assembled engines before but have not played
with Lycomings before, getting one safely apart following the Lycoming
overhaul manual should not be too difficult.
However, with the analytical capabilities of a very well experienced person
looking over your shoulder you will gain the ability of making better
judgments during the tear down as to the degree of repair and or of overhaul
that might be required. The reduced chances of unnecessarily damaging parts
in the process will be a bonus.
It can be done and has been done using only the manual for guidance. However
training, expertise and experience do reduce failure points and make for
better chances of reaching TBO with a clean record.
Happy building
Jim in kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: What are some engine
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> I'm learning that the shops I know of don't inspect/repair the cases -
they
> send out. I figure why not just send a suspect cracked case to them
instead
> but I can't give them to give me the names of those overhaul shops with
FAA
> certified welders.
>
> Anyone know? I heard someone say there may be one in TX and one in OK
that
> actually does their own welding to certified standards.
>
> While I'm at it, if one was motivated to take apart ones own engine, is
the
> Lycoming overhaul manual good enough to follow or do you really need an
A&P
> or similar person holding your hand the whole way if you've never done it
> before?
>
> Thanks,
> lucky
>
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: What are some engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
linn walters wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
>lucky macy wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>>
>>I'm learning that the shops I know of don't inspect/repair the cases - they
>>send out. I figure why not just send a suspect cracked case to them instead
>>but I can't give them to give me the names of those overhaul shops with FAA
>>certified welders.
>>
>>
>>
>Go to Divco for the case overhaul. http://www.divcoinc.com/
>
>
>
>>Anyone know? I heard someone say there may be one in TX and one in OK that
>>actually does their own welding to certified standards.
>>
>>
>>
>Divco is in TX.
>
Sorry guys and gals! Divco is in Tulsa OK!!!! Maybe I should proofread
my emails!!!
Linn
>>While I'm at it, if one was motivated to take apart ones own engine, is the
>>Lycoming overhaul manual good enough to follow or do you really need an A&P
>>or similar person holding your hand the whole way if you've never done it
>>before?
>>
>>
>>
>Absolutely! Well, almost. Get the Lycoming overhaul and parts
>manuals. The overhaul manual is pretty generic ...... but the parts
>manual is engine model specific, and covers a range of models. In
>otherwords, don't expect to find ALL the O-360s in one parts manual.
>
>Well, I don't know what your abilities are, but if you can read and
>follow directions well ..... and are handy with tools ..... you'll be
>able to do it solo. If you have an A&P that'll coach you ..... pass him
>some bucks .... that's the best way. These engines are rock-simple.
>You will have to have a torque wrench ..... get a good quality clicker
>..... a caliper .... feeler gauges .... a few sockets ...... and a
>couple of combo wrenches. It doesn't get much simpler than that.
>Linn
>
>
>
>>Thanks,
>>lucky
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: What are some engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Jim Jewell wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
>Hi Lucky,
>
>There was a time when I thought that anyone could tear down any engine. By
>his actions a friend convinced me that it was not so. As far as putting
>engines together un-assisted with a manual or not is concerned, all bets are
>off as far as the non mechanical types are concerned.
>
>If you have disassembled and assembled engines before but have not played
>with Lycomings before, getting one safely apart following the Lycoming
>overhaul manual should not be too difficult.
>However, with the analytical capabilities of a very well experienced person
>looking over your shoulder you will gain the ability of making better
>judgments during the tear down as to the degree of repair and or of overhaul
>that might be required. The reduced chances of unnecessarily damaging parts
>in the process will be a bonus.
>
>It can be done and has been done using only the manual for guidance. However
>training, expertise and experience do reduce failure points and make for
>better chances of reaching TBO with a clean record.
>
>Happy building
>
>Jim in kelowna
>
Jim's comments are spot on. Having had some more time to think about
the original question ..... and my answer .... I don't think I'd
recommend Lucky do the overhaul unassisted. There's just too many
places that it's easy for thiongs to go wrong. One of the major
problems is splitting the case ..... it's easy if you have the Lycoming
tools. I've split cases using a piece of oak and a hammer, and I've
made my own 'splitting' tools to take the place of Lycomings special
ones. There is the opportunity to damage the through bolts and/or the
threads. Not for the faint of heart.
Linn
do not archive
Message 53
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux@bendnet.com>
Sorry to bother you all with this again.
How do you determine where #13 & #14 go with respect to the lower floor & what
height do you actually set the lower floor? Any good pictures someone can post
to me?
Regards Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux@bendnet.com
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: What are some engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Don't forget the Parts Manual. The repair manual is generic but the parts
manual is for your engine. While it doesn't have a single word of
instruction, it has tons of pages of pictures, exploded views of all
sections of the engine, with part numbers, sizes and threads of bolt /nuts,
etc.. So use the directions from the repair-overhaul manual but you can
find a picture of what is going on with the parts manual.
Plus, I had an A&P looking over my shoulder at the key moments during
breakdown and re-assembly.
(My only tool before starting the plane was a hammer.) :-) (Some say it
still is.) :-(
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: What are some engine
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
> Hi Lucky,
>
> There was a time when I thought that anyone could tear down any engine. By
> his actions a friend convinced me that it was not so. As far as putting
> engines together un-assisted with a manual or not is concerned, all bets
are
> off as far as the non mechanical types are concerned.
>
> If you have disassembled and assembled engines before but have not played
> with Lycomings before, getting one safely apart following the Lycoming
> overhaul manual should not be too difficult.
> However, with the analytical capabilities of a very well experienced
person
> looking over your shoulder you will gain the ability of making better
> judgments during the tear down as to the degree of repair and or of
overhaul
> that might be required. The reduced chances of unnecessarily damaging
parts
> in the process will be a bonus.
>
> It can be done and has been done using only the manual for guidance.
However
> training, expertise and experience do reduce failure points and make for
> better chances of reaching TBO with a clean record.
>
> Happy building
>
> Jim in kelowna
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: What are some engine
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
> >
> > I'm learning that the shops I know of don't inspect/repair the cases -
> they
> > send out. I figure why not just send a suspect cracked case to them
> instead
> > but I can't give them to give me the names of those overhaul shops with
> FAA
> > certified welders.
> >
> > Anyone know? I heard someone say there may be one in TX and one in OK
> that
> > actually does their own welding to certified standards.
> >
> > While I'm at it, if one was motivated to take apart ones own engine, is
> the
> > Lycoming overhaul manual good enough to follow or do you really need an
> A&P
> > or similar person holding your hand the whole way if you've never done
it
> > before?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > lucky
> >
> >
>
>
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: What are some engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Me thinks he complains to loudly. 8*)
I'll second the Parts Manual and raise you a 21(or so) years of RVator. Two
GREAT sources of information during building, testing, repair, conditional
inspections, modifications, custom upgrades and reading material for future
projects while on the "throne". Without a doubt it's money well spent and
both are directly related to your airplane. KABONG (GBA)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: What are some engine
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
> Don't forget the Parts Manual. The repair manual is generic but the parts
> (My only tool before starting the plane was a hammer.) :-) (Some say
it
> still is.) :-(
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
> Harmon Rocket-II
Message 56
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| Subject: | Splatter paint for the interior |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Try http://www.zolatoneaim.com/, a clear coat is recommended.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Dube
Subject: Re: RV-List: Splatter paint for the interior
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 09:46 PM 2/25/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
>
>I am thinking of using splatter paint on my interior. I have seen a few
RV's
>this way and the owners seem to like the results. If anyone has an
>experiences with it or has a web page, photos etc. I would appreciate
the
>info. I looked in the archives, could not find anything.
I've used splatter paint on cars quite a bit.
You can buy it in spray cans as "trunk" paint. There are two
major
types. One has blobs of two or three different color (gray, white,
black)
paint. The other has chunks of different color (gray, white, black)
flock.
The blob style is better than the flock style.
I found that the surface was not at all durable. You MUST cover
the trunk paint with clearcoat if you plan to touch it at all. The bare
trunk paint is like primer. It rubs off pretty easily and gets dirty
very
easily. With a clearcoat, it is very durable and stays clean.
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: broke a dimple die |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Cammie:
If you ever want to run away from home call me first. ;)
6-8 hours a day on an RV10.
do not archieve
Dick Sipp
rv4 250DS
rv10 110DV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cammie Patch" <cammie@sunvalley.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: broke a dimple die
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Cammie Patch" <cammie@sunvalley.net>
>
> I got married about a year ago, and my husband has really been getting
> excited about the RV. At first, I just had him scotchbrite-debur-move
> clecoes, but he is to the point now that I point him in the right
direction
> and he can make parts as well as anyone. We can really knock out a lot of
> work on a Sunday afternoon. It's much more enjoyable to work together, and
> there are times when four hands are quite useful. Now I have a hard time
> getting to the RVator before him.
> I taught him how to fly too. ;-)
>
> Cammie
> fuse
Message 58
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Has anyone checked out the Southco fasteners, (Aircraft Spruce, P 102), for securing
the cowl to the firewall? If satisfactory even using more of these these
would be substantially cheaper than the other brands.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
Message 59
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| Subject: | Re: news flash (long) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Tedd:
This is great stuff, let's do another survey. Maybe Van, EAA, and or J. T.
Helms would help with a mailing to all completed and flying airplanes.
The data might prove to be a benefit to all of us.
Dick Sipp
RV4
RV10
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tedd McHenry" <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: news flash (long)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
>
> In 1999 I did an informal survey of RV pilots in an attempt to quantify
the
> fleet hours for the year, so that I could calculate accident rates to
compare
> to the general aviation rates quoted by the NTSB. You can see the full
results
> at
>
> http://www.vansairforce.org/articles/pilotage/pil_rv_safety.shtml
>
> Briefly, the results indicated an accident rate of between 5.8 and 10.8
per
> 100,000 flying hours (depending on assumptions), as compared to the GA
rate of
> 7.12 for the same period. The fatal accident rate for RVs was between 0.8
and
> 1.5 per 100,000 flying hours (again, depending on assumptions), as
compared to
> the GA rate of 1.35.
>
> My results have to be viewed with some skepticism because the sampling
method
> wasn't very random. (I relied on voluntary replies to an RV List posting
to
> determine fleet flying hours.) However, I think they provide a reasonable
> indication that RV accident rates are more-or-less in line with general
> aviation.
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
>
>
Message 60
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| Subject: | Re: What are some engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Linn's advice on using the parts book is good advice. However, Divco is in TULSA,
OK See
http://www.divcoinc.com/map.asp
>snipped
>>
>Go to Divco for the case overhaul. http://www.divcoinc.com/
>
>>Anyone know? I heard someone say there may be one in TX and one in OK that
>>actually does their own welding to certified standards.
>>
>Divco is in TX.
>
>>While I'm at it, if one was motivated to take apart ones own engine, is the
>>Lycoming overhaul manual good enough to follow or do you really need an A&P
>>or similar person holding your hand the whole way if you've never done it
>>before?
>>
>Absolutely! Well, almost. Get the Lycoming overhaul and parts
>manuals. The overhaul manual is pretty generic ...... but the parts
>manual is engine model specific, and covers a range of models. In
>otherwords, don't expect to find ALL the O-360s in one parts manual.
>
>Well, I don't know what your abilities are, but if you can read and
>follow directions well ..... and are handy with tools ..... you'll be
>able to do it solo. If you have an A&P that'll coach you ..... pass him
>some bucks .... that's the best way. These engines are rock-simple.
>You will have to have a torque wrench ..... get a good quality clicker
>..... a caliper .... feeler gauges .... a few sockets ...... and a
>couple of combo wrenches. It doesn't get much simpler than that.
>Linn
Message 61
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| Subject: | Re: What are some engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
There are also a number of Lycoming Service Instructions which you'll need. As
an example, dry lifter clearance is set by using push rods of differing lengths.
The service manual simply tells you to reference SI # 1060G. You'll have a
required knowledge gap, if you don't have the needed Service Instructions available.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
>Don't forget the Parts Manual. The repair manual is generic but the parts
>manual is for your engine. While it doesn't have a single word of
>instruction, it has tons of pages of pictures, exploded views of all
>sections of the engine, with part numbers, sizes and threads of bolt /nuts,
>etc.. So use the directions from the repair-overhaul manual but you can
>find a picture of what is going on with the parts manual.
>Plus, I had an A&P looking over my shoulder at the key moments during
>breakdown and re-assembly.
>(My only tool before starting the plane was a hammer.) :-) (Some say it
>still is.) :-(
>
>Tom Gummo
>Apple Valley, CA
>Harmon Rocket-II
>
>do not archive
>
>http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: What are some engine
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>>
>> Hi Lucky,
>>
>> There was a time when I thought that anyone could tear down any engine. By
>> his actions a friend convinced me that it was not so. As far as putting
>> engines together un-assisted with a manual or not is concerned, all bets
>are
>> off as far as the non mechanical types are concerned.
>>
>> If you have disassembled and assembled engines before but have not played
>> with Lycomings before, getting one safely apart following the Lycoming
>> overhaul manual should not be too difficult.
>> However, with the analytical capabilities of a very well experienced
>person
>> looking over your shoulder you will gain the ability of making better
>> judgments during the tear down as to the degree of repair and or of
>overhaul
>> that might be required. The reduced chances of unnecessarily damaging
>parts
>> in the process will be a bonus.
>>
>> It can be done and has been done using only the manual for guidance.
>However
>> training, expertise and experience do reduce failure points and make for
>> better chances of reaching TBO with a clean record.
>>
>> Happy building
>>
>> Jim in kelowna
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RV-List: What are some engine
>>
>>
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>> >
>> > I'm learning that the shops I know of don't inspect/repair the cases -
>> they
>> > send out. I figure why not just send a suspect cracked case to them
>> instead
>> > but I can't give them to give me the names of those overhaul shops with
>> FAA
>> > certified welders.
>> >
>> > Anyone know? I heard someone say there may be one in TX and one in OK
>> that
>> > actually does their own welding to certified standards.
>> >
>> > While I'm at it, if one was motivated to take apart ones own engine, is
>> the
>> > Lycoming overhaul manual good enough to follow or do you really need an
>> A&P
>> > or similar person holding your hand the whole way if you've never done
>it
>> > before?
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> > lucky
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
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