Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:27 AM - Flyin pics. (Dana Overall)
2. 04:35 AM - Anybody know the owner of this 6? (Dana Overall)
3. 05:15 AM - Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (RV8ter@aol.com)
4. 05:15 AM - VM 1000 & Single Drive Dual Mag (DLN 3000) (Esten Spears)
5. 05:24 AM - VM 1000 Fuel Flowmeter & Purge Valve Installation (Esten Spears)
6. 06:09 AM - Re: Rudder trailing edge - T-88 vs Tank sealant (RV9)
7. 06:18 AM - Dynon Pitot ()
8. 06:21 AM - Re: Rudder trailing edge - T-88 vs Tank sealant (linn walters)
9. 06:26 AM - Re: HVLP systems (linn walters)
10. 06:40 AM - Re: [rv8list] VM 1000 Fuel Flowmeter & Purge Valve Installation (Bill VonDane)
11. 06:48 AM - Re: New "No Fly Zones" and airport vulnerability assessments (RV_8 Pilot)
12. 07:12 AM - Re: Re: [rv8list] VM 1000 Fuel Flowmeter & Purge (Scott Bilinski)
13. 07:23 AM - Re:Dimple or c'sink (Jim Anglin)
14. 07:40 AM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (LarryRobertHelming)
15. 07:46 AM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
16. 08:06 AM - N8WV Upgrades... (Bill VonDane)
17. 08:09 AM - Re: A big step (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
18. 08:12 AM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Sam Buchanan)
19. 08:14 AM - Cool oil temps cure (Jim Anglin)
20. 08:28 AM - Re: Anybody know the owner of this 6? ()
21. 08:36 AM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (lucky macy)
22. 08:37 AM - Re: Flop tubes in QB wings (Evan and Megan Johnson)
23. 08:42 AM - GPS question (Jason Sneed)
24. 08:49 AM - Re: Anybody know the owner of this 6? (Scott Bilinski)
25. 09:02 AM - Need an GPS antenna... (Bill VonDane)
26. 09:14 AM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Sam Buchanan)
27. 09:24 AM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (RV8ter@aol.com)
28. 09:32 AM - Re: Anybody know the owner of this 6? (Dana Overall)
29. 09:36 AM - Re: Dimple or countersink 904/976/922 (Matthew Brandes)
30. 09:55 AM - RV-List New VANS AD/Service Bulletin Notice posted on website (P M Condon)
31. 10:01 AM - >Re:Cool oil temps cure (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
32. 10:13 AM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (linn walters)
33. 10:16 AM - Re: Cool oil temps cure (Jim Jewell)
34. 11:31 AM - Re: Cool oil temps cure (Stein Bruch)
35. 11:46 AM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Sam Buchanan)
36. 11:56 AM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Stein Bruch)
37. 12:12 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (lucky macy)
38. 12:12 PM - Re: Cool oil temps cure (John D. Heath)
39. 12:39 PM - Re: HVLP systems (Fly2eat@aol.com)
40. 12:44 PM - Re: HVLP systems (David Carter)
41. 12:48 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Fly2eat@aol.com)
42. 12:59 PM - Dynon Pitot (Wheeler North)
43. 01:11 PM - Re: Flyin Leftovers, need a little help. (Doug Weiler)
44. 01:56 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (linn walters)
45. 02:20 PM - More in FlowScan installation... (Bill VonDane)
46. 03:03 PM - Fly-in info. (BRUCE GRAY)
47. 03:03 PM - Re: HVLP systems (Michael D Hilger)
48. 03:15 PM - Re: More in FlowScan installation... (Jason Sneed)
49. 03:16 PM - Tach drive (Bob Hodgson)
50. 03:50 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Ed Holyoke)
51. 04:27 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (LarryRobertHelming)
52. 04:52 PM - Re: More in FlowScan installation... (Alex Peterson)
53. 05:25 PM - which oil cooler for the angle valve 200hp engine? (lucky macy)
54. 05:33 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Dave Bristol)
55. 05:34 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
56. 05:47 PM - Re: More in FlowScan installation... (Doug Weiler)
57. 06:07 PM - Re: More in FlowScan installation... (Larry Bowen)
58. 06:12 PM - Re: Cool oil temps cure (Dean Pichon)
59. 06:31 PM - Breather tube tank... (Travis Hamblen)
60. 06:34 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot (kempthornes)
61. 06:40 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot (Leesafur@aol.com)
62. 07:03 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
63. 07:05 PM - wing hole size for Van's conduit (Will & Lynda Allen)
64. 07:16 PM - Re: which oil cooler for the angle valve 200hp engine? (Eustace Bowhay)
65. 07:21 PM - Orndorff RV-8 Wing Videos for sale (Terri Watson)
66. 07:37 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot (Douglas A. Fischer)
67. 08:04 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot (Leesafur@aol.com)
68. 08:19 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Sam Buchanan)
69. 08:29 PM - Builders Manual + 21 years of the RV-ator (Joe Proctor)
70. 09:09 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (linn walters)
71. 09:10 PM - i39 pictures (Jason Sneed)
72. 10:42 PM - Weight/balance program (David Aronson)
73. 10:44 PM - Re: VM 1000 & Single Drive Dual Mag (DLN 3000) (David Aronson)
74. 11:48 PM - Re: Weight/balance program (Jeff Point)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
OK, here is the last of it:-) I talked with Doug Reeves via phone last
night and this just posted on the front page of vansairforce.net. On Doug's
site are also some links for video and additional photo sites.
Have fun.
WOW, what can I say? 86+ RVs and over 107 total aircraft.
http://members16.clubphoto.com/rick742624/guest.phtml
Big thanks to Rick Schwandt for the pictures.
What started out as an informal UFO (Ultimate Fly Out) by the Ohio Valley
RVators to my shop, turned into a great kickoff for this years fly-in
season. As most on the RV lists are aware, I moved the event from my shop
to the airport two weeks prior to the event. At that time, I made some
phone calls to round up door prizes. The weather forecast for the entire
east coast promised beautiful weather, this time we were not disappointed.
The first arrival was from the Michigan, Indiana border and was at 7:40AM.
By this time the local EAA chapter had coffee and free donuts. Shortly
thereafter, the pattern was full of RVs coming from all directions. It was
a continuous dialogue of flight of four inbound with traffic in sight,
flight of two following flight of two. Give credit to the pilots, at not
time did I ever witness anything remotely compromising. I took care of
parking RVs on the ramp until it filled. The ramp was double stacked,
leaving taxi space between rows. My youngest son and a friend took care of
directing arrivals on the taxiway where pilots were allowed to park there
own airplanes as they wished. The taxiway is nearly 1500 long. We had RVs
and certified, parked wingtip to wingtip nearly to the end of the taxiway.
By the way, we tried to only allow RVs onto the ramp. Reserve parking was
saved for TeamRV and the Ohio Valley RVators as they promised to put on
three different formation flights. TeamRV, led by Mike Stewart arrived from
Atlanta with a flight of 9, as did Ohio Valley, led by Rick Gray. Ohio
Valley had either 17 or 18 arrivals. Indy Wing topped the list with 20 RVs
which included 2 fire breathing Super 8s. 12 represented the TN VALLEY
BUILDER GROUP; the Palmetto Wing had 3 along with 3 from SERV. I believe
the group from Pontiac, MI made it in along with a two from Florida, west
from MO and from north east of DC. At noon I took a little break and
started counting airplanes. A couple RVs had already left by then so I
added them to the count. At noon we had 86 RVs and 107 total aircraft for
the fly-in. More RVs arrived after noon but I did not try and keep count,
as I was busy with lunch, formation flying and the door prizes. I also
squeezed in a little shopping time walking and looking at RVs.
After a lunch of hamburgers, hotdogs and free Hooters wings TeamRV, as a
flight 5 and Ohio Valley, as a flight of 4 put on individual formation
flight demonstrations, which would make the most harden envious. Icing on
the cake came form a final 8 ship formation showcase as a joint formation
flight demonstration made up of both teams. A reporter and photographer went
up with TeamRV. Stunning photographs now grace the front page of the local
Sunday paper.
http://www.richmondregister.com/articles/2004/02/29/news/news01.txt
Door prizes were given out from the following supporters: Control Vision
AnyWhere Map, EZ Pilot Auto Pilot, engalt.com/aviation.htm fabulous post
light system, Experimentalair.com CAD designed and water jet cut instrument
panel, Kitlog Pro, Grand Rapids, Trutrack autopilot discounts from
aircraftextras.com, Avery and Cleaveland.
Thanks to all who attended and yes, same time next year!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee when you click here.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Anybody know the owner of this 6? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
http://www.infra-read.com/pics/small/DCP_0826.JPG
I'd like to find his name and email offlist. Want to talk to him about his
panel.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
OK, I've bought Bob's most recent workbook but don't have quality time to go through
it all in a time frame to keep the info coherent.
Can someone give me the reader's digest version of the differences between just
going with Van's electrical design and drawing's and wiring kit and switches
vs whatever alternatives Bob's discussing (if anything).
Thanks,
lucky
Message 4
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<rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | VM 1000 & Single Drive Dual Mag (DLN 3000) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Esten Spears" <ewspears@comcast.net>
Has anyone installed a VM 1000 Engine Monitor with a Single Drive Dual Mag?
If So; What Tach Sensor did you use and where and how did you mount it??????
The instructions call for it to be placed in the gear inspection port where
it picks up the passing gear teeth. The single drive dual mag has such ports
but it uses nylon gears so I don't think the sensor would see anything.
Any help would be appreciated!
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
Message 5
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<rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | VM 1000 Fuel Flowmeter & Purge Valve Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Esten Spears" <ewspears@comcast.net>
Has anyone done an IO 360 200HP with a VM 1000 Fuel Flowmeter & Purge Valve
Installation???
If so; where and how did you place the purge valve and flowmeter????? I am using
standard Bendix Servo and Spider.
Any help would be appreciated!!
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder trailing edge - T-88 vs Tank sealant |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV9 <rv9@charter.net>
I've used T-88 on all my trailing edges and have been very pleased
with the results. I drill the trailing edges to a scrap piece of
aluminum angle and then let the T-88 set while clecoed to the angle.
It's important to rotate and clean the clecoes periodically during the
curing if you ever want to get them out :). That's probably the only
disadvantage compared to tank sealant which never really hardens
completely. When fully cured you don't really even need the rivets.
Before somebody takes me seriously, I'm just kidding. Be sure to
set the rivets.
You can use white vinegar to clean up the excess T-88 before it
hardens or on the tips of the clecoes. You need much more powerful
solvents (Acetone, MEK) to deal with the tank sealant.
Luckily after the flaps and ailerons, I've got no more of those
trailing edges to do.
Steve Mottin
RV-9A (Fuselage - bulkheads)
N609RV (Reserved)
Granbury, Texas
Sunday, February 29, 2004, 11:13:12 PM, you wrote:
-->> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ghost" <daveghost@earthlink.net>
DG> Im considering using T-88 structural epoxy on the rudder trailing edge
DG> instead of tank sealant, but first I thought Id check with those more
DG> experienced than I in the use of these materials. I havent used either yet.
DG> Are there any compelling reasons to use tank sealant rather than this epoxy
DG> or is the epoxy a better way to go? I have the epoxy on hand, but would
DG> gladly order the small container of tank sealant if it will perform better
DG> on the trailing edge. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
DG> Thank you,
DG> Dave, RV-7 Empennage
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: <EricHe@FlexSolPackaging.com>
I'm getting ready to order my Dynon, I specifically asked them this last week.
Their reply was, a pitot is a pitot. They also said it was built to fit the standard
(Gretz) mount. Can't answer anything about AOA, LRI, functions. Don't know,
Don't care.
>Unfortunately, the Dynon website says the pitot will only work with their
>EFIS-D10. It sounds like if you want their pitot for anything else you're
>out of luck. Anybody know for certain?
>
>Doug Fischer
>RV-9A 90706 Wings
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder trailing edge - T-88 vs Tank sealant |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Dave Ghost wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ghost" <daveghost@earthlink.net>
>
>Im considering using T-88 structural epoxy on the rudder trailing edge
>instead of tank sealant, but first I thought Id check with those more
>experienced than I in the use of these materials. I havent used either yet.
>Are there any compelling reasons to use tank sealant rather than this epoxy
>or is the epoxy a better way to go? I have the epoxy on hand, but would
>gladly order the small container of tank sealant if it will perform better
>on the trailing edge. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
>
>
>Thank you,
>
>Dave, RV-7 Empennage
>
Having used both )but not on an RV yet) I say get the sealant. the T-88
is formulated for wood, and is what holds my Pitts wings together. It
won't work well on aluminum as it'll pull loose after a while. the tank
sealant will grip like a monkey if the aluminum is clean. 'Course that
monkey might affect your W&B though!!! :-D
Linn
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: HVLP systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Brian Duncan wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Duncan" <brian2207@comcast.net>
>
>
>Does anyone have experience with HVLP setups? Any brands to look for or
>avoid? I'm looking at 3 or 4 stage turbine for priming and maybe finish. I'm
>also need to do some re-finishing around the house. Any experiences would be
>appreciated. Thanks.
>
>Brian
>
I borrow a 2-stage HVLP gun and I love the way it sprays. Much more
paint on the item and less on the floor. At the price of good paint,
that's a great plus!!! The only drawback, and sone I dom't know how to
solve is the hose. It's fat and fairly heavy and with a gun full of
paint my arm gets tired of holding it up. And that's really the only
drawback. Another good 'plus' is that the turbine gets hot and the air
is used to cool it ...... giving you warmer air to paint with instead of
colder air from a standard spray gun. I'm not a professional painter so
I can't comment on the quality of the paint job!!!
Linn
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] VM 1000 Fuel Flowmeter & Purge Valve Installation |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Esten....
I don't know about the purge valve, but I installed the flow meter on my -8A
this weekend:
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish13.htm
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Esten Spears" <ewspears@comcast.net>
<rv-list@matronics.com>
Subject: [rv8list] VM 1000 Fuel Flowmeter & Purge Valve Installation
Has anyone done an IO 360 200HP with a VM 1000 Fuel Flowmeter & Purge
Valve Installation???
If so; where and how did you place the purge valve and flowmeter????? I am
using standard Bendix Servo and Spider.
Any help would be appreciated!!
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
rv8list-unsubscribe@egroups.com
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
rv8list-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: New "No Fly Zones" and airport vulnerability assessments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
How about we, as a generally very affluent and intelligent group of people
quit arguing over who's more moderate or independent or cerebral and what
group is or isn't hurting GA and think of ways to fight these idiots.
They will take away every freedom we have to secure their own personal
power/financial agenda. They're soulless and not above cheating the
system/breaking the law to win more power. And if they think writing
ANOTHER stupid law to control us fossil fuel burning, "rich" pilots appeals
to their pathetic disfunctional base, they'll do it.
How about we brainstorm ways to fight these socialist, power mongers and
keep the freedom that is rightfully ours and NOT theirs to take?!
Idea 1 - Join AOPA.
Idea 2 - Write your reps using brief and concise statements. Ref the bills
being proposed.
Idea 3 - Call your reps with above info.
Idea 4 - Don't even waste the time calling these few reps unless you're a
constituent. Then let them have it.
Idea 5 - Reall do the things you say you will! And maybe twice!
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
>When a party is out of power they introduce all sorts of feel good bills to
>use in their campaign.
>Or they spend a year and a half tying up the government trying to find out
>whose spunk was on the dress.
>
>I agree with Charlie. It doesn't matter which party we're talking about
>here, they all have their issues, and you should follow the money always.
>If I
>could keep the new Republicans out of the bedroom, out of my beliefs and
>out of
>my wallet, I could be persuaded that there was a difference between them
>and
>the Dems.
Take off on a romantic weekend or a family adventure to these great U.S.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] VM 1000 Fuel Flowmeter & Purge |
Valve Installation
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> Valve
Installation
On my AFP system I have the flow meter, purge valve and then the spider. My
purge valve is mounted on the spider, and the flow meter is hard mounted on
the engine mount. Remember you need 5~6 inches of straight hose leading
into the flow meter.
At 07:40 AM 3/1/04 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
>Esten....
>
>I don't know about the purge valve, but I installed the flow meter on my -8A
>this weekend:
>
>http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish13.htm
>
>-Bill
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Esten Spears" <ewspears@comcast.net>
>To: <rv8-list@matronics.com>; <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>;
><rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: [rv8list] VM 1000 Fuel Flowmeter & Purge Valve Installation
>
>
> Has anyone done an IO 360 200HP with a VM 1000 Fuel Flowmeter & Purge
>Valve Installation???
>If so; where and how did you place the purge valve and flowmeter????? I am
>using standard Bendix Servo and Spider.
>Any help would be appreciated!!
>Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
>
>IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
>
>rv8list-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
><*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/
>
><*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> rv8list-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re:Dimple or c'sink |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
I have dimpled skins up to .040 with good results on 2 RV's (sorta - RV6 and
HR II). Otherwise .032 is the breaking point for c'sinking. v dimpling.
Dimple the top pc. and c'sink the pile below. C'sink just enough to get a
rivet to lay flush - otherwise you stand a chance of pulling the skin into a
crater.
Jim
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I am in the thick of wiring now so I have a somewhat experienced opinion on
this subject. I studied Bob's book and drawings and felt I understood about
55-65% of it before I received the Vans wiring kit. I was amazed how
different the two approaches are in their use of materials. Particularly in
the use of circuit breakers compared to fuses. And Vans rolls his own power
buss using copper strips and Bob advocates using the Buss power buses. I am
using a lot of the material that Vans supplies but have worked in the LR3
voltage regulator from Bob / B&C. After spending some time to understand
Bob and his drawings, I found it impossible for me to go with the Vans
approach. I reference the Vans wiring approach to get suggested wiring
routing and I try to use the wire his kit supplies. But I think Bob's
slip-on terminal ends are easier to work with than the screw on terminals
from Van's.
I am sure there will be mixed opinions and if I had studied Vans approach
first, I probably would feel uncomfortable with Bob's. Best wishes.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak Jeff Rose
Firewall Forward
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> OK, I've bought Bob's most recent workbook but don't have quality time to
go through it all in a time frame to keep the info coherent.
>
> Can someone give me the reader's digest version of the differences between
just going with Van's electrical design and drawing's and wiring kit and
switches vs whatever alternatives Bob's discussing (if anything).
>
> Thanks,
> lucky
>
>
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 3/1/04 7:16:35 AM Central Standard Time, RV8ter@aol.com
writes:
> Can someone give me the reader's digest version of the differences between
> just going with Van's electrical design and drawing's and wiring kit and
> switches vs whatever alternatives Bob's discussing (if anything).
>
Lucky- I didn't try Vans approach and aren't even familiar with it. After
absorbing about 2 months worth of Bob Nuckolls wit, wisdom and how-tos, I didn't
even bother with an alternative and converted to Aeroelectricism. Subscribe
to the Aeroelectric list, study the book, do like it says, ask questions if
you don't understand anything, do your design and installation, and you will not
have to worry about your electrics. If I can do it, anybody can!
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark - all electric RV-6A, 42 hours and my cheeks are KILLING me! 8-)
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | N8WV Upgrades... |
"rv8list@yahoogroups.com"
<104001c3ff9b$16c13380$51e25f0a@vondane>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I decided to do some upgrades to my -8A, and have a new page on my site that
I will be posting the details to if anyone is interested...
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish13.htm
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 2/29/04 9:04:00 PM Central Standard Time,
bifft@xmission.com writes:
> Otherwise, very pleased. Since there was nothing left to do back there,
> took the tail back off so I wouldn't have to duck under it to walk around
> the garage.
Baloney- you'll find LOTS more to do back there! 8-)
Congratulations!
Mark - do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
RV8ter@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> OK, I've bought Bob's most recent workbook but don't have quality
> time to go through it all in a time frame to keep the info coherent.
>
> Can someone give me the reader's digest version of the differences
> between just going with Van's electrical design and drawing's and
> wiring kit and switches vs whatever alternatives Bob's discussing (if
> anything).
>
> Thanks, lucky
Lucky,
This is an interesting and valid question and the answer is one that you
probably will not like. I think it is safe to say that for most of us
with minimal or normal amounts of electrical background, a serious
amount of study will be required to understand the why's and how's of
'Lectric Bob's dual bus architecture. I read portions of the book two
and three times before I finally got a good understanding of exactly why
he designed his system the way he did. If you try to implement the dual
bus system without understanding the reasons for it, it will make
absolutely no sense and you will have no idea how to properly use it or
troubleshoot.
In other words, there is no way to avoid serious study time. However,
once the system is understood, the traditional (Vans) method will appear
to be very dated and obsolete, and more than likely you will be a dual
bus convert!
Here are some of the basic tenets of Bob's system:
1) Elimination of single point failure scenarios. This is the biggie.
The horror stories we all have heard about "electrical failure" in
aircraft can be designed out of the system, and Bob has done so. His
system assures that regardless of what happens to the electrical system,
there is a work-around (usually just flipping one switch) that will
allow the flight to have a happy conclusion.
2) Elimination of expensive (and unnecessary) breakers. Bob's system is
based on readily available and reliable automotive blade fuses. The
rationale is that there is very little troubleshooting that can be done
in-flight with breakers, and with the proper design, an electrical
system can't be shot down with one or two circuit failures. Land and do
the trouble shooting on the ground.
3) Very reasonable cost due to the above use of automotive technology
and elimination of "aircraft" stuff. :-)
4) Absolute protection from over-voltage scenarios.
The traditional system of aircraft wiring does not provide for any of
the above advantages. I find it interesting that the new
state-of-the-art aircraft (Cirrus and the glass cockpit Cessnas) have
dual bus systems similar to Bob's design.
As I mentioned before, if a builder refuses to take the time to study
the dual bus architecture, they might as well go with the Vans cookbook
(and its inherent flaws) because Bob's system will be Greek to them. We
are fortunate to have choices so we can use whichever system we are most
comfortable with.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 5502 hrs, 'Lectric Bob's system throughout, no blown
fuses or scary electrical moments)
http://thervjournal.com
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Cool oil temps cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
My -4 won't get the oil temps above 150 even with a plate blocking off the
inlet. Someone told me there was an oil control valve that could be
installed to manually regulate the flow of oil to the cooler. I know this
could be potentially dangerous but notwithstanding that does anyone know if
this info is bogus and if not who would sell these valves?
Jim
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Anybody know the owner of this 6? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <benandginny@insightbb.com>
Dana,
Wish I could have attended last weekend. I don't know the 6 owner but ...
Carbon Fiber "like" panels available from
http://www.aeroenhancements.com/custom_finishes.htm
Ben Cunningham
RV7 Finish Kit in transit
Louisville, KY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Anybody know the owner of this 6?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>
> http://www.infra-read.com/pics/small/DCP_0826.JPG
>
> I'd like to find his name and email offlist. Want to talk to him about
his
> panel.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
> do not archive
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Thanks a bunch Sam,
I keep hearing a common theme - avoids expensive breaker switches and
somehow get the impression it's a cheaper but not necessarily quicker or
lighter solution.
Is one systems totoal cost actually significantly different than the other,
lighter than the other and easier to maintain once built?
It's tough to ignore any system Van's does as overall if they decide to do
something it's usually hard to top and usually makes good customer sense.
I'm just doing day/night vfr so worries about being down at IFR mins with an
all electric panel that suddenly goes black doesn't resonate with me. I
guess that is to say, I've never had a CB switch complaint yet but agree
their pricey. But if the big price difference between the two designs is
just with the cost between the 2 switch/fuse/breaker types used, I could
justify the higher expense of Van's design with lower building time on my
part to understand, find the parts to order, etc.
Again, though, thanks for the info.
lucky
----Original Message Follows----
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
RV8ter@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> OK, I've bought Bob's most recent workbook but don't have quality
> time to go through it all in a time frame to keep the info coherent.
>
> Can someone give me the reader's digest version of the differences
> between just going with Van's electrical design and drawing's and
> wiring kit and switches vs whatever alternatives Bob's discussing (if
> anything).
>
> Thanks, lucky
Lucky,
This is an interesting and valid question and the answer is one that you
probably will not like. I think it is safe to say that for most of us
with minimal or normal amounts of electrical background, a serious
amount of study will be required to understand the why's and how's of
'Lectric Bob's dual bus architecture. I read portions of the book two
and three times before I finally got a good understanding of exactly why
he designed his system the way he did. If you try to implement the dual
bus system without understanding the reasons for it, it will make
absolutely no sense and you will have no idea how to properly use it or
troubleshoot.
In other words, there is no way to avoid serious study time. However,
once the system is understood, the traditional (Vans) method will appear
to be very dated and obsolete, and more than likely you will be a dual
bus convert!
Here are some of the basic tenets of Bob's system:
1) Elimination of single point failure scenarios. This is the biggie.
The horror stories we all have heard about "electrical failure" in
aircraft can be designed out of the system, and Bob has done so. His
system assures that regardless of what happens to the electrical system,
there is a work-around (usually just flipping one switch) that will
allow the flight to have a happy conclusion.
2) Elimination of expensive (and unnecessary) breakers. Bob's system is
based on readily available and reliable automotive blade fuses. The
rationale is that there is very little troubleshooting that can be done
in-flight with breakers, and with the proper design, an electrical
system can't be shot down with one or two circuit failures. Land and do
the trouble shooting on the ground.
3) Very reasonable cost due to the above use of automotive technology
and elimination of "aircraft" stuff. :-)
4) Absolute protection from over-voltage scenarios.
The traditional system of aircraft wiring does not provide for any of
the above advantages. I find it interesting that the new
state-of-the-art aircraft (Cirrus and the glass cockpit Cessnas) have
dual bus systems similar to Bob's design.
As I mentioned before, if a builder refuses to take the time to study
the dual bus architecture, they might as well go with the Vans cookbook
(and its inherent flaws) because Bob's system will be Greek to them. We
are fortunate to have choices so we can use whichever system we are most
comfortable with.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 5502 hrs, 'Lectric Bob's system throughout, no blown
fuses or scary electrical moments)
http://thervjournal.com
Watch high-quality video with fast playback at MSN Video. Free!
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flop tubes in QB wings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Hi Mickey....I have done it several times. It takes alot of patience but it
can be done. You have to use pop rivets for everything and you will scrape
up your wrists trying to pop them inside the first bay. You also have to
move the sending unit mounting hole to the back baffle in the second
bay...kind of a trick to get the nutplates in place through that little hole
but again, with patience it can be done. You will also have to be very
careful about aluminum chips, you WILL have lots of them in the tank when
you are done.....rinse, rinse, rinse. Just use a gallon of avgas and pour it
throgh a coffee filter a few times untill you dont see any sparkles. Feel
free to contact me if you wish....I am happy to help if I can.
Evan
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: Flop tubes in QB wings
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Does anyone see a way to get a flop tube to work
> in a QB wing?
>
> At first I just thought it was a quick retrofit, but
> there seem to be some protective brackets needed inside
> to keep the flop tubes from getting hung up in there.
>
> Has anyone been able to make this work?
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Message 23
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
Can someone tell me if it is possible to run 2 gps units off one
antenna? If so where would I find some type of Y adapter?
Thanks,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
N242DS
Great flyin this weekend at I39!
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Anybody know the owner of this 6? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
If you can just get the N number and look it up. I could not make it out.
At 11:27 AM 3/1/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <benandginny@insightbb.com>
>
>Dana,
>Wish I could have attended last weekend. I don't know the 6 owner but ...
>Carbon Fiber "like" panels available from
>http://www.aeroenhancements.com/custom_finishes.htm
>
>Ben Cunningham
>RV7 Finish Kit in transit
>Louisville, KY
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Anybody know the owner of this 6?
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>>
>>
>> http://www.infra-read.com/pics/small/DCP_0826.JPG
>>
>> I'd like to find his name and email offlist. Want to talk to him about
>his
>> panel.
>>
>>
>> Dana Overall
>> Richmond, KY i39
>> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>> Finish kit
>> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
>> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
>> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Need an GPS antenna... |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
If any one of you fine folks out there have one of those little black Garmin
hockey puck GPS antennas that you're not going to be using, I sure could use
one...
Here's a photo of what I an looking for:
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/gpsa.jpg
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
lucky macy wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> Thanks a bunch Sam,
> I keep hearing a common theme - avoids expensive breaker switches and
> somehow get the impression it's a cheaper but not necessarily quicker or
> lighter solution.
I think it would be both less expensive and lighter, but since I can't
compare both systems side-by-side, I don't have hard numbers. The
Fast-On terminals used in Bob's system are *definitely* easier and
quicker to install than fumbling with tiny washers and screws! Get the
proper crimper, and a Fast-On can be installed and in place in a matter
of seconds. The fuse panels weigh nearly nothing; the weight comparison
between good quality switches and switchable breakers is probably a
wash. If you have separate breakers and switches, Bob's system would
certainly be lighter and simpler.
>
> Is one systems totoal cost actually significantly different than the other,
> lighter than the other and easier to maintain once built?
A good electrical system has no maintainance! :-)
>
> It's tough to ignore any system Van's does as overall if they decide to do
> something it's usually hard to top and usually makes good customer sense.
I think it is a matter of inertia; Vans offers what is traditional
(kinda like their aircraft....) and what the folks at Vans are familiar
with.
>
> I'm just doing day/night vfr so worries about being down at IFR mins with an
> all electric panel that suddenly goes black doesn't resonate with me.
But suddenly being in the dark on a VFR night can be exciting! And,
Bob's system means you don't have to worry about a runaway alternator or
a failed master contactor.
And....its sorta cool knowing your electrical system is more advanced
than most certificated light planes. :-)
Sam
==================
I
> guess that is to say, I've never had a CB switch complaint yet but agree
> their pricey. But if the big price difference between the two designs is
> just with the cost between the 2 switch/fuse/breaker types used, I could
> justify the higher expense of Van's design with lower building time on my
> part to understand, find the parts to order, etc.
>
> Again, though, thanks for the info.
>
> lucky
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach
> Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 10:12:01 -0600
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> RV8ter@aol.com wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
> >
> > OK, I've bought Bob's most recent workbook but don't have quality
> > time to go through it all in a time frame to keep the info coherent.
> >
> > Can someone give me the reader's digest version of the differences
> > between just going with Van's electrical design and drawing's and
> > wiring kit and switches vs whatever alternatives Bob's discussing (if
> > anything).
> >
> > Thanks, lucky
>
> Lucky,
>
> This is an interesting and valid question and the answer is one that you
> probably will not like. I think it is safe to say that for most of us
> with minimal or normal amounts of electrical background, a serious
> amount of study will be required to understand the why's and how's of
> 'Lectric Bob's dual bus architecture. I read portions of the book two
> and three times before I finally got a good understanding of exactly why
> he designed his system the way he did. If you try to implement the dual
> bus system without understanding the reasons for it, it will make
> absolutely no sense and you will have no idea how to properly use it or
> troubleshoot.
>
> In other words, there is no way to avoid serious study time. However,
> once the system is understood, the traditional (Vans) method will appear
> to be very dated and obsolete, and more than likely you will be a dual
> bus convert!
>
> Here are some of the basic tenets of Bob's system:
>
> 1) Elimination of single point failure scenarios. This is the biggie.
> The horror stories we all have heard about "electrical failure" in
> aircraft can be designed out of the system, and Bob has done so. His
> system assures that regardless of what happens to the electrical system,
> there is a work-around (usually just flipping one switch) that will
> allow the flight to have a happy conclusion.
>
> 2) Elimination of expensive (and unnecessary) breakers. Bob's system is
> based on readily available and reliable automotive blade fuses. The
> rationale is that there is very little troubleshooting that can be done
> in-flight with breakers, and with the proper design, an electrical
> system can't be shot down with one or two circuit failures. Land and do
> the trouble shooting on the ground.
>
> 3) Very reasonable cost due to the above use of automotive technology
> and elimination of "aircraft" stuff. :-)
>
> 4) Absolute protection from over-voltage scenarios.
>
> The traditional system of aircraft wiring does not provide for any of
> the above advantages. I find it interesting that the new
> state-of-the-art aircraft (Cirrus and the glass cockpit Cessnas) have
> dual bus systems similar to Bob's design.
>
> As I mentioned before, if a builder refuses to take the time to study
> the dual bus architecture, they might as well go with the Vans cookbook
> (and its inherent flaws) because Bob's system will be Greek to them. We
> are fortunate to have choices so we can use whichever system we are most
> comfortable with.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 5502 hrs, 'Lectric Bob's system throughout, no blown
> fuses or scary electrical moments)
> http://thervjournal.com
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Ah, something concrete.
This can't be prevented with Van's setup - maybe with slight modification?
In a message dated 3/1/2004 12:16:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
sbuc@hiwaay.net writes:
But suddenly being in the dark on a VFR night can be exciting! And,
Bob's system means you don't have to worry about a runaway alternator or
a failed master contactor.
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Anybody know the owner of this 6? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Somebody does a "dip" with your cut panel and the finish, which floats on
top of the whatever, bonds itself to the panel. Anybody got a clue? I
talked with the guy at SNF last year but that's about it. The panel in this
6 was done the same way.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
>From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Anybody know the owner of this 6?
>Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 08:48:53 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>If you can just get the N number and look it up. I could not make it out.
>
>
>At 11:27 AM 3/1/04 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: <benandginny@insightbb.com>
> >
> >Dana,
> >Wish I could have attended last weekend. I don't know the 6 owner but ...
> >Carbon Fiber "like" panels available from
> >http://www.aeroenhancements.com/custom_finishes.htm
> >
> >Ben Cunningham
> >RV7 Finish Kit in transit
> >Louisville, KY
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Anybody know the owner of this 6?
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> >>
> >>
> >> http://www.infra-read.com/pics/small/DCP_0826.JPG
> >>
> >> I'd like to find his name and email offlist. Want to talk to him about
> >his
> >> panel.
> >>
> >>
> >> Dana Overall
> >> Richmond, KY i39
> >> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> >> Finish kit
> >> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> >> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
> >> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
> >> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
> >> do not archive
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>do not archive
>
>
Watch high-quality video with fast playback at MSN Video. Free!
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | RE: Dimple or countersink 904/976/922 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
Frank,
The 904 flange is .040. The center section skin is .025 or .032, can't
remember. The 972 skin is also .040.
I called Van's and they said to dimple all three parts or I could
countersink the 976/904 and dimple the 972 skin to fit in the countersink.
That's the route I'm going to take.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
Message 30
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| Subject: | RV-List New VANS AD/Service Bulletin Notice posted on website |
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
A new inspect fuel tank SB is issued from Vans. One(so far) QB fuel tank was assembled
with the clear plastic coating still adhered to the
metal. Vans now uses a blue plastic skin........One time visual inspection to comply
with SB.
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:Cool oil temps cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Do you have a vernatherm valve on your engine ? This goes in place of the
old oil screen and is the temp. control valve for oil flow through the oil
cooler. It doesn't let oil flow through the cooler until the temp. is high enough
to open the valve,then regulates the flow to keep the oil temp. where it
belongs.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
lucky macy wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
>Thanks a bunch Sam,
>I keep hearing a common theme - avoids expensive breaker switches and
>somehow get the impression it's a cheaper but not necessarily quicker or
>lighter solution.
>
>Is one systems totoal cost actually significantly different than the other,
>lighter than the other and easier to maintain once built?
>
Since we're not popping out 'standard' panels and each system is really
custom, I'd say that any Van's wiring kit will come up short. Having
said that, maybe someone will chime in and tell those of us that haven't
got that far just exactly what the Van's wiring kit entails. Cost
difference is so widely subjective that there can't really be any
comparison. It depends on what quality you buy Vs what's in Van's kit.
Do you buy Mil-spec wire or go to the auto parts place? Good
aviation-quality crimp-on connectors or Home Depot? You can save some
bucks in this area, but I don't recommend it. That'll show up in the
maintenance category.
>It's tough to ignore any system Van's does as overall if they decide to do
>something it's usually hard to top and usually makes good customer sense.
>
But, how does he do the 'one size fits all' package? Is the wiring for
an autopilot in his kit? How about wiring for strobes, nav lights and
landing lights? The 'essential bus' was mentioned. I guess there's no
dual battery sysetm in Vans's kit. there's just too many variables.
>I'm just doing day/night vfr so worries about being down at IFR mins with an
>all electric panel that suddenly goes black doesn't resonate with me. I
>guess that is to say, I've never had a CB switch complaint yet but agree
>their pricey. But if the big price difference between the two designs is
>just with the cost between the 2 switch/fuse/breaker types used, I could
>justify the higher expense of Van's design with lower building time on my
>part to understand, find the parts to order, etc.
>
Finding the parts and ordering may not be so hard. Aeroelectric will
sell you all the stuff you need. Can you buy them cheaper elsewhere?
Maybe. It's the same dilemma as when you were looking for air tools.
There is also Newark Electronics http://www.newark.com/ for electrical
stuff ...... get their catalog as their web site is tough to navigate in.
>Again, though, thanks for the info.
>
Wiring is a tough enough job as it is without being constrained by a
'one size fits all' kit. One problem is solved though, and that's
choosing the wire sizes and the ckt breakers/fuses. The idea of using
blade fuses is intriguing to me .... the breakers are large, expensive,
and heavier, and if you get the 'pullable' breakers, they cost even
more. You have to remember that breakers aren't there to protect the
units that they feed, they are there to protect the wiring. Sizing
wiring is a tedious and time consuming task in itself but will pay off
in the long run. Most builders use too much wire, and the 'if this wire
is good, a larger wire is better' mindset. This only adds weight and cost.
Linn ..... soon to be in the same boat!!! Oops .... forget the boat!!!
>lucky
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Cool oil temps cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Jim,
"The desired oil temperature range for Lycoming engines is from 165 degrees
to 220 degrees F. If the aircraft has a winterization kit, it should be
installed when operating in outside temperatures (OAT) that are below the 40
to 45 degree F range. If no winterization kit is supplied and the engine is
`not' equipped with a thermostatic bypass valve, it may be necessary to
improvise a means to of blocking off a portion of the air flow to the oil
cooler."
The above quotes are taken from page 49 of the 2002 Lycoming Flyer, Key
reprints. this publication is given out free at the Lycoming display booths
at air shows etc. chances are that it can be obtained by directly contacting
Lycoming.
I am assuming that the "thermostatic bypass valve" above and references to
vernatherm and varatherm (Spelling?) oil temperature control devices on this
list in the past are one and the same . I would think that one of these
units in good condition would be well worth installing if one is not
currently installed.
I would be very cautious about installing a non Lycoming manual valve that
could offer the chance to reduce oil flow manually. The risk of accidental
excessive oil flow reduction and or shut off ! is to be avoided.
Also try taping off both sides of the oil cooler as a test.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cool oil temps cure
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
>
> My -4 won't get the oil temps above 150 even with a plate blocking off the
> inlet. Someone told me there was an oil control valve that could be
> installed to manually regulate the flow of oil to the cooler. I know this
> could be potentially dangerous but notwithstanding that does anyone know
if
> this info is bogus and if not who would sell these valves?
>
> Jim
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Cool oil temps cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Jim,
One thing I suspect is that your engine may not have a Vernitherm, or if it
does it may not be working.
On my -360 powered RV6, I don't have a vernitherm and I have the same
problem. The fix is to install either an oil screen housing that accepts a
vernitherm, or one of the filter mounts that accepts a vernitherm, this
keeps the oils from flowing to the cooler until it's warm enough....king of
like a thermostat in your car radiator.
Just one word of caution if you install an oil screen housing with a
Vernitherm to an engine that didn't previously have one. Make sure you
don't have the "viscosity valve" installed in the accessory case. If so,
the plunger end will interefere with the tip of the vernitherm valve.
Lycomings should have one or the other, but never both.
Anyway, just my 2 cents!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Anglin
Subject: RV-List: Cool oil temps cure
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
My -4 won't get the oil temps above 150 even with a plate blocking off the
inlet. Someone told me there was an oil control valve that could be
installed to manually regulate the flow of oil to the cooler. I know this
could be potentially dangerous but notwithstanding that does anyone know if
this info is bogus and if not who would sell these valves?
Jim
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
RV8ter@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> Ah, something concrete.
>
> This can't be prevented with Van's setup - maybe with slight modification?
The "slight modification" involves the installation of a second bus and
over-voltage protection which means that you then have.........Bob's
system. :-)
Sam Buchanan
>
> In a message dated 3/1/2004 12:16:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> sbuc@hiwaay.net writes:
> But suddenly being in the dark on a VFR night can be exciting! And,
> Bob's system means you don't have to worry about a runaway alternator or
> a failed master contactor.
Message 36
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| Subject: | Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Here's my regular 2 cents....
I sell thousands of feet of wire and coax to homebuilders, and from MANY
discussions with people building their panels, wiring methods, etc.. I've
come to the following conclusions.
#1) The Fuse/Toggle Switch route per 'lectric Bob, is by far easier, faster
and quantitively cheaper than going with switches & breakers.
#2) At least 80-90% of people building now are taking this (Bob Knuckolls)
approach.
#3) People shouldn't even talk about "non Mil-Spec" "home depot" wire,
terminals etc.. Since you've no doubt spent $20-40K at a minimum to get to
the point of wiring, and you've taken the time to build a good quality
airplane, why skimp on something as important as wiring. It will still cost
you "X" dollars, so the way I look at it, is if you're already spending 80%
to do it, why not spend the other 20% and do it right!
#4) Very few people actually build a panel to match the kit that Van's
sells. Many of them end up cutting up Van's Wiring kit to use the wire, in
which case it's almost a total waste of money (ok, not total waste--just
overpriced). If you build a panel to their specs, it works fine.
But....Add a Dynon, autopilot, GPS, engine monitor, etc.. and you'll need a
lot more. That being said, if you are buying the Van's kit just for the
wire and terminals, it's way more expensive than just buying the raw
materials themselves.
#5) Wiring your plane may seem intimidating, and you'll undoubtedly make a
few mistakes, just like you did when setting your first rivets.
But...you'll find in the end that's it's really quite easy and sometimes is
even enjoyable!
Last thing....B&C isn't the only game in town for wire, terminals, etc!!!
I'm giving them a good run!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com (purveyor of aircraft wiring & avionics supplies).
Do Not Archive
Message 37
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| Subject: | Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
back to reality.
I just asked about Van's electric kits and drawings vs. Bob's whatever. No
one is talking non-milspec wire and no one in the mid atlantic RV wing that
I've asked has used Bob's approach and most have not even heard of him.
Van's kit's were what they based their design off of, for future reference,
and no one is complaining so far. Some have steam gauges, some have started
off with electric, some have upgraded, etc. Van's *way* seems to be
tailorable/modifiable to some degree hence my question in the first place.
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Here's my regular 2 cents....
I sell thousands of feet of wire and coax to homebuilders, and from MANY
discussions with people building their panels, wiring methods, etc.. I've
come to the following conclusions.
#1) The Fuse/Toggle Switch route per 'lectric Bob, is by far easier, faster
and quantitively cheaper than going with switches & breakers.
#2) At least 80-90% of people building now are taking this (Bob Knuckolls)
approach.
#3) People shouldn't even talk about "non Mil-Spec" "home depot" wire,
terminals etc.. Since you've no doubt spent $20-40K at a minimum to get to
the point of wiring, and you've taken the time to build a good quality
airplane, why skimp on something as important as wiring. It will still cost
you "X" dollars, so the way I look at it, is if you're already spending 80%
to do it, why not spend the other 20% and do it right!
#4) Very few people actually build a panel to match the kit that Van's
sells. Many of them end up cutting up Van's Wiring kit to use the wire, in
which case it's almost a total waste of money (ok, not total waste--just
overpriced). If you build a panel to their specs, it works fine.
But....Add a Dynon, autopilot, GPS, engine monitor, etc.. and you'll need a
lot more. That being said, if you are buying the Van's kit just for the
wire and terminals, it's way more expensive than just buying the raw
materials themselves.
#5) Wiring your plane may seem intimidating, and you'll undoubtedly make a
few mistakes, just like you did when setting your first rivets.
But...you'll find in the end that's it's really quite easy and sometimes is
even enjoyable!
Last thing....B&C isn't the only game in town for wire, terminals, etc!!!
I'm giving them a good run!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com (purveyor of aircraft wiring & avionics supplies).
Do Not Archive
Dream of owning a home? Find out how in the First-time Home Buying Guide.
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Cool oil temps cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <altoq@direcway.com>
Try this link
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/cgi-bin/frame/frame-aircraft.cgi?URL=/Aircraft/OilSystem/VernithermValve.html
John D
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cool oil temps cure
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> One thing I suspect is that your engine may not have a Vernitherm, or if
it
> does it may not be working.
>
> On my -360 powered RV6, I don't have a vernitherm and I have the same
> problem. The fix is to install either an oil screen housing that accepts
a
> vernitherm, or one of the filter mounts that accepts a vernitherm, this
> keeps the oils from flowing to the cooler until it's warm enough....king
of
> like a thermostat in your car radiator.
>
> Just one word of caution if you install an oil screen housing with a
> Vernitherm to an engine that didn't previously have one. Make sure you
> don't have the "viscosity valve" installed in the accessory case. If so,
> the plunger end will interefere with the tip of the vernitherm valve.
> Lycomings should have one or the other, but never both.
>
> Anyway, just my 2 cents!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Anglin
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Cool oil temps cure
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
>
> My -4 won't get the oil temps above 150 even with a plate blocking off the
> inlet. Someone told me there was an oil control valve that could be
> installed to manually regulate the flow of oil to the cooler. I know this
> could be potentially dangerous but notwithstanding that does anyone know
if
> this info is bogus and if not who would sell these valves?
>
> Jim
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: HVLP systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fly2eat@aol.com
Try Lexaire. Excellent gun and they back up their products. Call Bill or
Liz at 978-663-7202. Tell them L.D. sent you. RV-8QB
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: HVLP systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I don't understand why anyone uses the "vane/turbine" HVLP systems. They
are very expensive and totally unnecessary.
I have a DeVilbiss (spelling?) gun I bought 7 years ago that uses regular
shop air compressor. I run turn the regulator down to about 10psi (have a
gage on the heel of the spray gun) and fire away. I've been using it all
this time for internal corrosion control priming and will use it for my
external priming and finish coats.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Duncan" <brian2207@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: HVLP systems
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Duncan" <brian2207@comcast.net>
>
>
> Does anyone have experience with HVLP setups? Any brands to look for or
> avoid? I'm looking at 3 or 4 stage turbine for priming and maybe finish.
I'm
> also need to do some re-finishing around the house. Any experiences would
be
> appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Brian
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fly2eat@aol.com
How do I get my hands on Electric Bob's book I keep reading about in the RV
list? L. D. RV-8QB 1087
Message 42
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
The dynon pitot is a standard pitot, with a flat spot and a hole down below
the pitot entrance for the AOA pressure.
It provides the same values for the pitot that Van's pitot does.
It is not a static source like some pitot tubes are, so you will need to use
Vans simple system or ???
RE compass module.
Mine in in outer rt wing, fwd of spar. I used two peices of wood .75" x
1.75" x 4" long sliced on the bottom at angles one for each axis. This
allowed me to shim on each axis separately until it was inside of .2 deg in
aligment with the D10. Then I bonded it all together and final shimed it
with tape. The hold down screws were ss #6 flush head that were screwed up
through the top peice of wood, then I used the plastic stand off nuts used
on circuit boards to hold the module down.
This was the only place on my plane that allows 12" of separation from all
iron and wires.
W
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flyin Leftovers, need a little help. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
Hey Fellow Listers:
Congrats Dana. Sounds like you put together a great gathering.
Since I see everyone is already getting antsy for the fly-in season to
start, allow me to continue to plug this spring's Twin Cities RV Fly-In.
May 22 and 23 is the date and it had better be on your calendars (this is
the hard sell technique!). This is going to be a BIG DEAL for RV pilots!!.
Breakfast, door prizes, "wife rides", mini-seminars and it's all part of
Discover Aviation Days at Anoka County Airport, just north of Minneapolis.
The snow will be gone and IT WILL BE SPRINGTIME!
Stay tuned on the Fly-In website: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rvflyin/
Doug Weiler,
pres MN Wing
Alex Peterson
RV Fly-in Chairman
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Fly2eat@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Fly2eat@aol.com
>
>How do I get my hands on Electric Bob's book I keep reading about in the RV
>list? L. D. RV-8QB 1087
>
Go to http://www.aeroelectric.com/
Linn
>
>
>
>
Message 45
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| Subject: | More in FlowScan installation... |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
More on this subject... You got my interest peaked Jeff.....so I went
looking for installation manuals for different engine monitors that use the
FlowScan 201B... All of them said the following in one way or another:
- The flow transducer should be installed in the fuel line and mounted to a
horizontal surface as described below.
- A screen or filter should be installed upstream of the flow transducer to
screen out debris which could affect rotor movement or settle in V-bearings.
- As turbulence upstream of the transducer affects its performance, there
should be a reasonable length of straight line between the transducer inlet
and the first valve, elbow, or other turbulence producing device.
- Install flow transducer with wire leads pointed UP to vent bubbles and
insure that the rotor is totally immersed in liquid.
- For maximum accuracy at low flow rates the transducer should be mounted on
a horizontal surface.
I only found one that said anything about the actual location, and it said:
...has seen good results with the following mounting:
1. The transducer in a stationary location in line between the electric
boost pump and the engine driven pump.
2. The transducer in a stationary location in line between the fuel
injection servo and the distribution block.
3. The transducer in a stationary location in line between the Engine driven
pump and the Carburetor
I have a call into FlowScan for more info, but from what I have ready today,
I see no problem with installing where I did... When I hear back from
FlowScan I will update this post...
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "pittsakro" <jfarrar1@cox.net>
Subject: [rv8list] Re: N8WV Upgrades...
Bill, I would advise against the location that you chose for the
flowscan. The flow meter is a point of restriction in the line.
When there is a restriction on the suction side of a pump, there
can/will be cavitation.....bubbles. It depends on the temp of the
fluid and the suction head of the pump. I believe that there is a
risk in your installation. I've got mine on the discharge side of
the engine pump w/ flex lines in and out, reasonably straight and the
error is less than 1%.
Jeff Farrar
N4ZJ 385hrs
EAA Tech Counselor
EAA Flight Adviser
--- In rv8list@yahoogroups.com, Bill VonDane <bill@v...> wrote:
> I decided to do some upgrades to my -8A, and have a new page on my
site that
> I will be posting the details to if anyone is interested...
>
> http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish13.htm
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 46
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--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
I'm dropping this quick message to the list about more detailed information
about are fly-in. This is the Carson City, NV. Fly-in we're talking about.
Two sights you can visit which are vansairforce.net. Once there look in the
left hand column and you will see Activities Calendar, click on there and
scroll to the bottom and our information is posted. The other sight is
vansaircraft.com which will have some information and then forward to the
first sight for the same information. If you are looking for further
information drop me an e-mail and I will try to answer all of your
questions. We still have minor details to work out but the event is on so
plan forit. Hope to see you all there. Bruce Gray in Nevada.
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: HVLP systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael D Hilger <rvsixer@juno.com>
On Mon, 1 Mar 2004 14:40:46 -0600 "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter"
> <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> I don't understand why anyone uses the "vane/turbine" HVLP systems.
> They
> are very expensive and totally unnecessary.
>
> I have a DeVilbiss (spelling?) gun I bought 7 years ago that uses
> regular
> shop air compressor. I run turn the regulator down to about 10psi
> (have a
> gage on the heel of the spray gun) and fire away. I've been using
> it all
> this time for internal corrosion control priming and will use it for
> my
> external priming and finish coats.
>
> David Carter
The HVLP guns that use shop air are called "conversion guns". A
friend of mine
used one to paint my -6 and it was amazing how little overspray there
was. Nice
finish, too. I have used the turbine type, too. They also worked great
except they heat
the supply air. The conversion gun we used is made by whoever bought out
Croix Air.
Mike Hilger
RV-6 N207AM 550 hours
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: More in FlowScan installation... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
Just for general information... I did not follow the directions at
all.. I have turns in the line before and after the floscan, I also did
not mount it to a horizontal surface. But, it works great and is highly
accurate. I would say it is within an 1/8 to a 1/10 of a gallon. My
fuel gages do not work for some reason so I use this as my fuel gage. I
was thinking about ordering the princeton fuel gages from grad rapids,
but I do not know how hard it would be to pull out the old non working
gages and replace them with new ones, if anyone has any info on this
please send me an email.
thanks,
Jason Sneed
n242ds@cox.net
On Mar 1, 2004, at 4:20 PM, Bill VonDane wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
> More on this subject... You got my interest peaked Jeff.....so I went
> looking for installation manuals for different engine monitors that
> use the
> FlowScan 201B... All of them said the following in one way or another:
>
> - The flow transducer should be installed in the fuel line and mounted
> to a
> horizontal surface as described below.
> - A screen or filter should be installed upstream of the flow
> transducer to
> screen out debris which could affect rotor movement or settle in
> V-bearings.
> - As turbulence upstream of the transducer affects its performance,
> there
> should be a reasonable length of straight line between the transducer
> inlet
> and the first valve, elbow, or other turbulence producing device.
> - Install flow transducer with wire leads pointed UP to vent bubbles
> and
> insure that the rotor is totally immersed in liquid.
> - For maximum accuracy at low flow rates the transducer should be
> mounted on
> a horizontal surface.
>
> I only found one that said anything about the actual location, and it
> said:
>
> ...has seen good results with the following mounting:
> 1. The transducer in a stationary location in line between the electric
> boost pump and the engine driven pump.
> 2. The transducer in a stationary location in line between the fuel
> injection servo and the distribution block.
> 3. The transducer in a stationary location in line between the Engine
> driven
> pump and the Carburetor
>
> I have a call into FlowScan for more info, but from what I have ready
> today,
> I see no problem with installing where I did... When I hear back from
> FlowScan I will update this post...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "pittsakro" <jfarrar1@cox.net>
> To: <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [rv8list] Re: N8WV Upgrades...
>
>
> Bill, I would advise against the location that you chose for the
> flowscan. The flow meter is a point of restriction in the line.
> When there is a restriction on the suction side of a pump, there
> can/will be cavitation.....bubbles. It depends on the temp of the
> fluid and the suction head of the pump. I believe that there is a
> risk in your installation. I've got mine on the discharge side of
> the engine pump w/ flex lines in and out, reasonably straight and the
> error is less than 1%.
>
> Jeff Farrar
> N4ZJ 385hrs
> EAA Tech Counselor
> EAA Flight Adviser
>
> --- In rv8list@yahoogroups.com, Bill VonDane <bill@v...> wrote:
>> I decided to do some upgrades to my -8A, and have a new page on my
> site that
>> I will be posting the details to if anyone is interested...
>>
>> http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/finish/finish13.htm
>>
>>
>> -Bill VonDane
>> EAA Tech Counselor
>> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
>> www.vondane.com
>> www.creativair.com
>> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 49
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hodgson" <bob@hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk>
Thanks to all who replied to my recent questions. Got another one!
How big is the tach gen (IE VTACHGEN 2) for Van's tachometer (IE VTACH3500)
?
- Specifically the width / diameter.
I have an inverted oil pickup on the vac pump pad, and need to know whether
the tacho gen will interfere with it. (The pickup is just a 3/16" plate with
a hose boss in the centre).
Want to avoid using the one with the extension if possible, as it would
need to be bent rather severely to fit in the limited space between engine
and firewall on the -3
Thanks again
Bob (UK)
3B details
Message 50
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| Subject: | Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Add to the basic tenets of 'lectric Bob's system:
A) Fuel on board should be the limiting factor of duration of
flight not battery capacity.
B) Active notification of alternator failure / low voltage
condition so you can shed load and save battery for comfortable
conclusion of flight.
Ed Holyoke
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Here are some of the basic tenets of Bob's system:
1) Elimination of single point failure scenarios. This is the biggie.
The horror stories we all have heard about "electrical failure" in
aircraft can be designed out of the system, and Bob has done so. His
system assures that regardless of what happens to the electrical system,
there is a work-around (usually just flipping one switch) that will
allow the flight to have a happy conclusion.
2) Elimination of expensive (and unnecessary) breakers. Bob's system is
based on readily available and reliable automotive blade fuses. The
rationale is that there is very little troubleshooting that can be done
in-flight with breakers, and with the proper design, an electrical
system can't be shot down with one or two circuit failures. Land and do
the trouble shooting on the ground.
3) Very reasonable cost due to the above use of automotive technology
and elimination of "aircraft" stuff. :-)
4) Absolute protection from over-voltage scenarios.
The traditional system of aircraft wiring does not provide for any of
the above advantages. I find it interesting that the new
state-of-the-art aircraft (Cirrus and the glass cockpit Cessnas) have
dual bus systems similar to Bob's design.
As I mentioned before, if a builder refuses to take the time to study
the dual bus architecture, they might as well go with the Vans cookbook
(and its inherent flaws) because Bob's system will be Greek to them. We
are fortunate to have choices so we can use whichever system we are most
comfortable with.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 5502 hrs, 'Lectric Bob's system throughout, no blown
fuses or scary electrical moments)
http://thervjournal.com
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Please understand I am not attacking you on this. We all have our opinion.
But opinions change with experience and knowledge and challenged viewpoints
sometimes. If as you say no one around you has even heard of Bob, IMHO, it
sounds like your group would greatly benefit from having Bob N. give one of
his weekend seminars in your neck of the woods. In addition, get signed up
for the Aero-electric newsgroup that Matronics maintains. Use the archives
there to look at various things you might have a question about. Search on
"Vans" for instance and see what has been written in the past. I like the
RV plane and I think Vans is one of the true geniuses of our times. But his
electronics are more basic than I expected after reading Bob. I guess you
know one of Van's planes will fly without any electronics don't you? We
don't have to put in any electronics. Electronics is an option and that is
why it is not part of the standard kit. You will learn a lot and will do
everyone in your club a great service by getting Bob to put on a seminar
near you. Bob's way is the better and safer way.
As I wrote earlier, I studied and learned Bob's way first and could not get
myself to do it the Vans way after knowing what I knew was a better way.
Best wishes.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak Jeff Rose
Bob's E-Buss
Firewall Forward
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> back to reality.
>
> I just asked about Van's electric kits and drawings vs. Bob's whatever.
No
> one is talking non-milspec wire and no one in the mid atlantic RV wing
that
> I've asked has used Bob's approach and most have not even heard of him.
> Van's kit's were what they based their design off of, for future
reference,
> and no one is complaining so far. Some have steam gauges, some have
started
> off with electric, some have upgraded, etc. Van's *way* seems to be
> tailorable/modifiable to some degree hence my question in the first place.
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach
> Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 13:49:15 -0600
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> Here's my regular 2 cents....
>
> I sell thousands of feet of wire and coax to homebuilders, and from MANY
> discussions with people building their panels, wiring methods, etc.. I've
> come to the following conclusions.
>
> #1) The Fuse/Toggle Switch route per 'lectric Bob, is by far easier,
faster
> and quantitively cheaper than going with switches & breakers.
>
> #2) At least 80-90% of people building now are taking this (Bob Knuckolls)
> approach.
>
> #3) People shouldn't even talk about "non Mil-Spec" "home depot" wire,
> terminals etc.. Since you've no doubt spent $20-40K at a minimum to get to
> the point of wiring, and you've taken the time to build a good quality
> airplane, why skimp on something as important as wiring. It will still
cost
> you "X" dollars, so the way I look at it, is if you're already spending
80%
> to do it, why not spend the other 20% and do it right!
>
> #4) Very few people actually build a panel to match the kit that Van's
> sells. Many of them end up cutting up Van's Wiring kit to use the wire,
in
> which case it's almost a total waste of money (ok, not total waste--just
> overpriced). If you build a panel to their specs, it works fine.
> But....Add a Dynon, autopilot, GPS, engine monitor, etc.. and you'll need
a
> lot more. That being said, if you are buying the Van's kit just for the
> wire and terminals, it's way more expensive than just buying the raw
> materials themselves.
>
> #5) Wiring your plane may seem intimidating, and you'll undoubtedly make a
> few mistakes, just like you did when setting your first rivets.
> But...you'll find in the end that's it's really quite easy and sometimes
is
> even enjoyable!
>
> Last thing....B&C isn't the only game in town for wire, terminals, etc!!!
> I'm giving them a good run!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis
>
> http://www.steinair.com (purveyor of aircraft wiring & avionics supplies).
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> Dream of owning a home? Find out how in the First-time Home Buying Guide.
>
>
Message 52
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| Subject: | More in FlowScan installation... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> - The flow transducer should be installed in the fuel line
> and mounted to a horizontal surface as described below.
> - A screen or filter should be installed upstream of the flow
> transducer to screen out debris which could affect rotor
> movement or settle in V-bearings.
> - As turbulence upstream of the transducer affects its
> performance, there should be a reasonable length of straight
> line between the transducer inlet and the first valve, elbow,
> or other turbulence producing device.
> - Install flow transducer with wire leads pointed UP to vent
> bubbles and insure that the rotor is totally immersed in liquid.
> - For maximum accuracy at low flow rates the transducer
> should be mounted on a horizontal surface.
There is a plane around here which had the Floscan mounted with the flow
direction incorrect. At around 8 hours total time, the engine stopped
running at about 200 agl on takeoff. The plane sustained some damage,
and was repaired. The Floscan people apparently said that this could
happen. I don't understand it and remain skeptical, because I can't
think of why it worked for 8 hours and then stopped.
Be careful of flow direction.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 443 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 53
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| Subject: | which oil cooler for the angle valve 200hp engine? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Are folks going with the stewart warner style oil cooler for this engine
even though it doesn't specify the 200hp engine?
only the positech 4215 says it's for the io-360 but it weighs twice as much
and appears to be smaller. Plus the *old* design had too dense a pattern and
didn't cool as well as the SW version. What's the scoop?
Learn how to help protect your privacy and prevent fraud online at Tech
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>...If you try to implement the dual bus system without understanding the reasons
for it, it will make absolutely no sense and you will have no idea how to properly
use it or
>troubleshoot.
>
>
Guys,
Just be sure that you REALLY understand this system because when you land in the
middle of North Dakota with an electrical problem YOU are going to be the expert
- the mechanic on duty at the FBO isn't going to know squat about it. And
of course there's the poor shmuck that you sell it to later on....
Dave RV6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 03/01/2004 2:13:48 PM Central Standard Time,
luckymacy@hotmail.com writes:
back to reality.
There is no reality like being at 3000' agl at night and the airplane goes
dark... not a scare tactic, just one scenario we should all give a good "what
if?" to...
Van's *way* seems to be
tailorable/modifiable to some degree hence my question in the first place.
If I can offer one insight- I am an industrial electrician with 25 years in
the biz- not an aviation specialist, but someone who endeavors to understand
electricity. When I took a look at Bob's crowbar circuit for overvoltage
protection and understood the elegant simplicity and usefulness of it, it was one
of
those epiphanal moments that told me "you might want to pay attention to this
dude- he is way ahead of the curve"- kinda like some guy named VanGrunsven is
way ahead of other folk making airplanes- Sam Buchanan gave the most logical
argument I've seen yet- mine is a little more esorteric, FWIW... The system
offered by Vans may work fine for many builders, but by following the Nuckolls
approach, I'm confident that I not only understand everything going on in my
system ('cept for them "little black boxes" that only the padded-cell folk
grok) but I can competently deal with any "emergencies" I may encounter and be
able to effectively troubleshoot anything that might go badly, but always once
safely on terra firma.
And now I'll really stir it up: Why go with a taildragger when you could
have had the little wheel up front?
(Duck and cover- here it comes!) 8-) I'm KIDDING! TO EACH THEIR OWN!!
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: More in FlowScan installation... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
----- > >
> > - The flow transducer should be installed in the fuel line and mounted
> > to a
> > horizontal surface as described below.
> > - A screen or filter should be installed upstream of the flow
> > transducer to
> > screen out debris which could affect rotor movement or settle in
> > V-bearings.
Just curious... how many of you have a filter upstream of your fuel flow
transducer?? I do not since the instructions for installation from EI
(maker of my fuel computer) did not call for one. Is this really needed??
Doug Weiler
RV-5 105 hours
Message 57
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| Subject: | More in FlowScan installation... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
My gascolator is upstream.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug Weiler [mailto:dougweil@pressenter.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 8:45 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: More in FlowScan installation...
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
>
> ----- > >
> > > - The flow transducer should be installed in the fuel line and
> > > mounted to a horizontal surface as described below.
> > > - A screen or filter should be installed upstream of the flow
> > > transducer to
> > > screen out debris which could affect rotor movement or settle in
> > > V-bearings.
>
>
> Just curious... how many of you have a filter upstream of
> your fuel flow transducer?? I do not since the instructions
> for installation from EI (maker of my fuel computer) did not
> call for one. Is this really needed??
>
> Doug Weiler
> RV-5 105 hours
Message 58
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| Subject: | Cool oil temps cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
Hi Jim,
I have the same problem with my -4. On cold days, I cannot get the oil
temperature above 150F -even with the downstream side of the cooler blocked.
I plan to block the upstream side as I have been told this is much more
effective though much less easily done. I don't believe the Vernatherm
valve is your problem - assuming you have one. Vernatherm valves are
normally open, and close upon a rise in temperature. They contain a wax
pill much like car thermostats. As the heat of the oil melts the wax, it
expands thereby extending a piston. This piston extension blocks a hole
that otherwise returns oil to the engine. The alternate path (Vernatherm
extended) shunts the oil through the cooler. Even when the Vernatherm valve
is cold, it leaks (by design) oil through the cooler.
Regarding the manual valve, I've never heard of such a system, but it would
probably help - assuming you were comfortable with any safety issues. I
suggest you try blocking the upstream side of the cooler and let me know how
it works!
Good luck,
Dean
RV-4
Worcester, MA
180 Hrs
>From: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Cool oil temps cure
>Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 08:14:30 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
>
>My -4 won't get the oil temps above 150 even with a plate blocking off the
>inlet. Someone told me there was an oil control valve that could be
>installed to manually regulate the flow of oil to the cooler. I know this
>could be potentially dangerous but notwithstanding that does anyone know if
>this info is bogus and if not who would sell these valves?
>
>Jim
>
>
Learn how to help protect your privacy and prevent fraud online at Tech
Message 59
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|
| Subject: | Breather tube tank... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
I have read that many people have designed a homemade breather tube tank
that they empty as needed as opposed to having the output slime up the belly
of the plane. I am considering doing the same and have a couple solid ideas
on how to do it the safest possible way (i.e.=85 whistle slot in breather tube
& vented tank). I would like to learn from anyone else=92s experiences prior
to making my own tank, so please respond here or directly to my e-mail
address with any input you may have!!! I would really appreciate any photos
or diagrams of your installation. Like I said, any help would be GREATLY
appreciated!
Thanks in advance=85.
Travis Hamblen
RV-6A @ VGT (North Las Vegas, NV)
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
Message 60
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 12:59 PM 3/1/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>The dynon pitot is a standard pitot, with a flat spot and a hole down below
>the pitot entrance for the AOA pressure.
But, it is unheated and so not good for IFR, correct?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 61
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--> RV-List message posted by: Leesafur@aol.com
In a message dated 3/1/2004 8:35:10 PM Central Standard Time,
kempthornes@earthlink.net writes:
But, it is unheated and so not good for IFR, correct?
They have both heated and unheated.
http://www.dynonavionics.com/docs/pitotfeatures.html
Lee
Anoka, MN
RV-3 Wing
Message 62
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 03/01/2004 2:13:48 PM Central Standard Time,
> luckymacy@hotmail.com writes:
>
> back to reality.
>
> There is no reality like being at 3000' agl at night and the airplane goes
> dark... not a scare tactic, just one scenario we should all give a good "what
> if?" to...
> Van's *way* seems to be
> tailorable/modifiable to some degree hence my question in the first place.
> If I can offer one insight- I am an industrial electrician with 25 years in
> the biz- not an aviation specialist, but someone who endeavors to understand
> electricity. When I took a look at Bob's crowbar circuit for overvoltage
> protection and understood the elegant simplicity and usefulness of it, it was
one of
> those epiphanal moments that told me "you might want to pay attention to this
> dude- he is way ahead of the curve"- kinda like some guy named VanGrunsven is
> way ahead of other folk making airplanes- Sam Buchanan gave the most logical
> argument I've seen yet- mine is a little more esorteric, FWIW... The system
> offered by Vans may work fine for many builders, but by following the Nuckolls
> approach, I'm confident that I not only understand everything going on in my
> system ('cept for them "little black boxes" that only the padded-cell folk
> grok) but I can competently deal with any "emergencies" I may encounter and be
> able to effectively troubleshoot anything that might go badly, but always once
> safely on terra firma.
>
> And now I'll really stir it up: Why go with a taildragger when you could
> have had the little wheel up front?
>
> (Duck and cover- here it comes!) 8-) I'm KIDDING! TO EACH THEIR OWN!!
>
> >From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips
To save a little weight.... just like the fuses vs them old heavy circuit breakers.
tee-hee..
Message 63
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| Subject: | wing hole size for Van's conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@comcast.net>
I'm going to go with the conduit from van's in my wings and am wondering
what size the holes need to be drilled. Also, is it a big deal if I use a
regular drill bit instead of a unibit since I'm using a drill press.. and..
well. don't want to wait until I can get to the store to get a bigger
unibit. Will I need this conduit anywhere else or should I just order the
'25 feet?
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa
RV8 wings
Message 64
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| Subject: | Re: which oil cooler for the angle valve 200hp engine? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hi Lucky:
I would recommend the Stewart Warner 9 row cooler, contact Pacific Oil
Cooler Service, Inc 1-800-866-7335 believe they have a clone of this cooler
at a good price. Also they have been in business for 45 years and can answer
all your questions. I am running two of them.
Eustace Bowhay, Blind Bay. B.C. RV 10 # 30. Emp-Tail Cone competed working
on wings.
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: which oil cooler for the angle valve 200hp engine?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> Are folks going with the stewart warner style oil cooler for this engine
> even though it doesn't specify the 200hp engine?
>
> only the positech 4215 says it's for the io-360 but it weighs twice as
much
> and appears to be smaller. Plus the *old* design had too dense a pattern
and
> didn't cool as well as the SW version. What's the scoop?
>
> Learn how to help protect your privacy and prevent fraud online at Tech
>
>
Message 65
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| Subject: | Orndorff RV-8 Wing Videos for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terri Watson" <windsaloft@rmisp.com>
Have the two for building the RV-8 Wing.
I think they are $41 + shipping new.
Will pass these on to the first person who will commit to and send a check
for $30, shipping via priority mail (USPS) included.
Contact info below
"Whatever you can do or dream you can, begin it.
Boldness has genius, power and magic in it."
- Goethe's Faust
Terri Watson
Winds Aloft Aviation, Inc.
windsaloft@rmisp.com
Message 66
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
Glad to hear it. I'm just starting my wings and I'm beginning to think
about acquiring the additional stuff like heated pitot, autopilot servo,
landing lights, etc. Good to see an alternative to the other $430 rip-off
pitot.
Doug Fischer
-9A #90706 Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: <EricHe@FlexSolPackaging.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon Pitot
> --> RV-List message posted by: <EricHe@FlexSolPackaging.com>
>
>
> I'm getting ready to order my Dynon, I specifically asked them this last
week. Their reply was, a pitot is a pitot. They also said it was built to
fit the standard (Gretz) mount. Can't answer anything about AOA, LRI,
functions. Don't know, Don't care.
>
>
> >Unfortunately, the Dynon website says the pitot will only work with their
> >EFIS-D10. It sounds like if you want their pitot for anything else
you're
> >out of luck. Anybody know for certain?
> >
> >Doug Fischer
> >RV-9A 90706 Wings
>
>
Message 67
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--> RV-List message posted by: Leesafur@aol.com
In a message dated 3/1/2004 9:38:49 PM Central Standard Time,
dfischer@iserv.net writes:
Glad to hear it. I'm just starting my wings and I'm beginning to think
about acquiring the additional stuff like heated pitot, autopilot servo,
landing lights, etc. Good to see an alternative to the other $430 rip-off
pitot.
Doug Fischer
-9A #90706 Wings
The pitot is an introductory price of $199 then it will go up a $100 I think
that's what they told me. You can get the mount at http://www.gretzaero.com/
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Lee
Anoka, MN
RV-3 Wing
Working on fuel tank
Message 68
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Dave Bristol wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
>
> Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
>> ...If you try to implement the dual bus system without
>> understanding the reasons for it, it will make absolutely no sense
>> and you will have no idea how to properly use it or troubleshoot.
>>
>>
>
> Guys,
>
> Just be sure that you REALLY understand this system because when you
> land in the middle of North Dakota with an electrical problem YOU are
> going to be the expert - the mechanic on duty at the FBO isn't going
> to know squat about it. And of course there's the poor shmuck that
> you sell it to later on....
>
> Dave RV6 So Cal EAA Technical Counselor
Well, we seem to have dropped back into old school thought mode again.
There is no reason for the local mechanic (or the pilot) to panic when
you land with "an electrical problem". If an electrical glitch occurs,
it will be associated with a component in the avionics or the charging
system, not the dual bus wiring architecture itself. For the mechanic,
troubleshooting is no different than a spam can; find where the wire
shorted against the airframe, fix it and put in a new fuse.
The only components unique to "Lectric Bob's system is a diode between
the buses and his over voltage module. The more elaborate systems will
have an extra battery and couple of extra contactors. But the system
itself is bulletproof, otherwise there would be no rationale for
adopting it. Most of the system is the usual stuff, just wired together
in a different scheme than "normal". But a blown fuse is a blown fuse
regardless of what kind of wiring system the plane has and is diagnosed
in the same old manner.
And all of us carry a wiring schematic in our plane......don't we?
Sam Buchanan
Message 69
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| Subject: | Builders Manual + 21 years of the RV-ator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Proctor" <pjoe2@qwest.net>
Hay List
I have the Builders Manual for the RV 9/9A + 21 years of the RV-ator for SALE -
Best Offer + Shipping.
Joe Proctor pjoe2@qwest.net
Message 70
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>Well, we seem to have dropped back into old school thought mode again.
>There is no reason for the local mechanic (or the pilot) to panic when
>you land with "an electrical problem". If an electrical glitch occurs,
>it will be associated with a component in the avionics or the charging
>system, not the dual bus wiring architecture itself. For the mechanic,
>troubleshooting is no different than a spam can; find where the wire
>shorted against the airframe, fix it and put in a new fuse.
>
>The only components unique to "Lectric Bob's system is a diode between
>the buses and his over voltage module. The more elaborate systems will
>have an extra battery and couple of extra contactors. But the system
>itself is bulletproof, otherwise there would be no rationale for
>adopting it. Most of the system is the usual stuff, just wired together
>in a different scheme than "normal". But a blown fuse is a blown fuse
>regardless of what kind of wiring system the plane has and is diagnosed
>in the same old manner.
>
>And all of us carry a wiring schematic in our plane......don't we?
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
I agree with Sam ..... to a point. I find most of the A&Ps lacking in
electrical knowledge. They're in the same boat as car mechanics that
don't understand computer controlled stuff. I can't count the number of
A&Ps that I've helped troubleshoot a charging system failure. But then
electricity and electronics is MY strong point. Faced with a radically
different electrical system (What's that other battery do?) most A&Ps
will probably shy away from working on it ..... or will spend your money
as they try to figure it out. Almost all their electrical knowledge
above the basics is gained from OJT, and the systems in the Certificated
aircraft are almost identical, and that makes troubleshooting a lot
easier for them. Bottom line is that the builder (if possible) will
probably do most of the troubleshooting.
I'm not denigrating the A&Ps out there .... they work their butt off for
a paycheck that's far from making them rich. My hat's off to them for
the work they do.
The comment was made about the poor sucker that buys your dual buss
electrical system ..... be nice to them (and yourself while you
troubleshoot your own problems ..... and at least make a wire list.
Drawing really good schematics is an art-form in itself and very time
consuming .... and a wire list is the second best thing you can have.
Numbering wiring is really time consuming too, but a couple of swipes
with a few different color magic markers can really help. Make up your
own code or use the resister code. All kinds of options!!
Linn
>
>
>
>
Message 71
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
Here are my pics from the i39 fly in if anyone is interested. Hope this
works, first time I have used this program. I think the link is this:
http://www.highland-parks.com/i39%20flyin/
if not then try:
http://www.highland-parks.com/i39 flyin/
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 72
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| Subject: | Weight/balance program |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
hey listers:
I have looked in the archives but can't find weight and balance program. Anyone
with a program I would appreciate it.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
FINALLY FINISHED<) inspection Saturday
Message 73
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| Subject: | Re: VM 1000 & Single Drive Dual Mag (DLN 3000) |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Call VM and they will send you a diagram. The sensor is glued to the outside of
the case at a specific position. i followed their directions and it works perfectly.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
Esten Spears <ewspears@comcast.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Esten Spears"
Has anyone installed a VM 1000 Engine Monitor with a Single Drive Dual Mag? If
So; What Tach Sensor did you use and where and how did you mount it??????
The instructions call for it to be placed in the gear inspection port where it
picks up the passing gear teeth. The single drive dual mag has such ports but
it uses nylon gears so I don't think the sensor would see anything.
Any help would be appreciated!
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
Message 74
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| Subject: | Re: Weight/balance program |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Bill Vondane's site:
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/downloads/index.htm
You will have to modify the stations for the 4, but no big deal.
Congrats on your inspection. Mine's on saturday also.
Jeff Point
RV-6 getting reeeaaallllyyy close
Milwaukee WI
David Aronson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
>
>hey listers:
>I have looked in the archives but can't find weight and balance program. Anyone
with a program I would appreciate it.
>Dave Aronson
>RV4 N504RV
>FINALLY FINISHED<) inspection Saturday
>
>
>
>
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