Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:50 AM - Alternator Warning Light Circuit (Rob McAnally)
2. 03:31 AM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Jim Sears)
3. 03:40 AM - Electric Bob Weekend Class This Week in Groton, CT (Donald Mei)
4. 05:08 AM - Re: Alternator Warning Light Circuit (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
5. 06:19 AM - Baffle/cooler problem (Larry Bowen)
6. 06:29 AM - Toggle Switches (Vincent Welch)
7. 06:37 AM - Re: Toggle Switches (Bruce Gray)
8. 07:17 AM - Re: Baffle/cooler problem (Pat Hatch)
9. 07:21 AM - Re: Toggle Switches (Dan Checkoway)
10. 07:43 AM - Re: Cowl Inlet Ramps (Dan Checkoway)
11. 07:45 AM - Re: Baffle/cooler problem (Cy Galley)
12. 07:57 AM - Re: Toggle Switches (Stein Bruch)
13. 08:07 AM - tip-up canopy strut brace (Dan Checkoway)
14. 08:51 AM - Re: Weight/balance program (David Carter)
15. 09:06 AM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (kempthornes)
16. 09:19 AM - Re: Baffle/cooler problem (Brian Denk)
17. 09:45 AM - Re: tip-up canopy strut brace (Sam Buchanan)
18. 10:01 AM - Re: tip-up canopy strut brace (Darwin N. Barrie)
19. 10:06 AM - Re: Baffle/cooler problem (HCRV6@aol.com)
20. 11:03 AM - Re: Weight/balance program (Warren W Hurd)
21. 11:30 AM - Van's 60 amp Alternator Kit (Boss Mount) for Sale (Ken Brooks)
22. 01:00 PM - Van's 60 amp Alternator Kit - Sold (Ken Brooks)
23. 01:00 PM - Dynon Pitot (Wheeler North)
24. 01:05 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Matt Jurotich)
25. 01:12 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Matt Jurotich)
26. 01:26 PM - tricks for keeping clean, draining preservative oil (Dan Checkoway)
27. 01:32 PM - Re: Weight/balance program (Tom Gummo)
28. 01:53 PM - Oshkosh Camping Question (John)
29. 01:55 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot (Kevin Horton)
30. 02:02 PM - Re: Dimple or countersink 904/976/922 (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
31. 02:19 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Stein Bruch)
32. 02:29 PM - Re: Oshkosh Camping answer (Randy Simpson)
33. 02:53 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
34. 02:59 PM - Re: tricks for keeping clean,draining preservative oil (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
35. 03:00 PM - Re: Oshkosh Camping Question (linn walters)
36. 03:14 PM - Re: Oshkosh Camping Question (Dane Sheahen)
37. 03:29 PM - Re: Oshkosh Camping Question (Clifford Begnaud)
38. 03:31 PM - Re: Alternator Warning Light Circuit (Joe Hine)
39. 04:08 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Dave Bristol)
40. 05:12 PM - Re: tip-up canopy strut brace (thomas a. sargent)
41. 05:48 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach-off subject (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
42. 05:52 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot (Doug Rozendaal)
43. 06:03 PM - Re: tip-up canopy strut brace (Larry Pardue)
44. 06:16 PM - Re: Cool oil temps cure (Jim Anglin)
45. 06:17 PM - Re: Toggle Switches (C J Heitman)
46. 06:49 PM - Re: tip-up canopy strut brace (Dan Checkoway)
47. 07:09 PM - Re: Electric Bob Weekend Class This Week in Groton, CT (Douglas A. Fischer)
48. 07:29 PM - Van's alternator (Sam Buchanan)
49. 07:34 PM - Re: Strobe power supply repair (N223RV@aol.com)
50. 07:49 PM - Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach (Bob U.)
51. 07:55 PM - Re: Weight/balance program (Bob U.)
52. 08:00 PM - Re: Oshkosh Camping Question (Cy Galley)
53. 08:04 PM - Fuel Tank Fit ()
54. 08:27 PM - Re: Van's alternator (Brian Denk)
55. 09:04 PM - Re: Weight/balance program (Tom Gummo)
56. 09:26 PM - Wiring the Nuckolls way or ....... (Rob W M Shipley)
57. 09:49 PM - RTV corrosion (Rob W M Shipley)
58. 11:49 PM - Re: tip-up canopy strut brace (Jeff Point)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Alternator Warning Light Circuit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob McAnally" <mcarob@tpg.com.au>
Hi,
Does anyone have a circuit to suit the following request.
I want to install an alternator warning light similar to auto installations. i.e.
light illuminates when the master switch is on and the engine is not running,
but goes out as soon as the alternator provides greater than the battery voltage
back to the system.
I have stock Vans equipment, a 35amp Nippondenso alternator and an adjustable regulator
(case to ground, voltage in, centre stud voltage to the alternator).
I have a couple of circuits that are a little confusing and wonder if anyone has
ideas for this equipment.
Regards
Rob
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> There is no reality like being at 3000' agl at night and the airplane goes
> dark... not a scare tactic, just one scenario we should all give a good
"what
> if?" to...
Uh, I believe that's why we're supposed to carry a good flashlight, or two.
:-)
I have some of Bob's ideas in Scooter.
I have blade fuses when others were telling me I really needed those neat
curcuit breakers. After having flown for a few years, I'd realized that
electrical failures were rare and could be handled on the ground more
easily; so, I went the the fuses. I've only had one fuse location to fail
since I started flying mine in '99. For some reason, the starter contactor
fuse popped a couple of times. I figured it was a little spike I hadn't
accounted for. Each time, I increased the amperage a little because I was
using fast blow fuses from the local auto parts store. Now, I have no fuses
failing. Going with fuses saved me a lot of money; and, I don't have to
worry about fuses going bad over time. I can't help but believe that
breakers can do that.
I used his OV protection on mine because I had one on the Cheetah. Nice
device that can save you money. It's even better when it's one that doesn't
destroy itself in the process of protecting the system. The Cheetah's had
to be replaced when it did its job when I had a bad voltage regulator.
I used Bob's ground point and grounded almost everything at that point to
prevent ground loops. I think the only thing I did not ground there were
the lights. I must admit I used a tad more wiring to do that; but, I don't
have those funny noises I read that others have had.
I do not have the essential buss system and extra battery because I don't
fly IFR. I can cut everything off to get home. So far, I'm satisfied that
my system is not overly complicated and works just fine.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
EAA Tech Counseor
Message 3
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| Subject: | Electric Bob Weekend Class This Week in Groton, CT |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Sorry for the blatant ad copy, but our EAA chapter is hosting Electric Bob
this weekend in Groton, CT and I thought now might be a good time for
another pitch.
You can sign up for the 2 day class at his web site:
www.aeroelectric.com
Cost is I THINK $150 and that includes his book.
If you'd like to attend but are worried about a place to stay, give me a
call. (860-625-7853) We'll find something cheap, or free (my house, pending
my wife's approval) for you.
Best regards,
Don Mei
Vice President EAA 334
RV-4
3B9 - Chester, CT
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
Find things fast with the new MSN Toolbar includes FREE pop-up blocking!
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Warning Light Circuit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Hi Rob-
Take a look at these: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9005/9005.html
You can get 'em from: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AECcatalog.html
The -201 model is for single battery/14 volt systems. A very talented little
piece of circuitry...
Mark
Message 5
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| Subject: | Baffle/cooler problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I have an oil cooler dilemma. The cutout I made on the rear baffle is
1/4" too low, allowing the middle mounting bolt on the inboard side to
interfere with the cylinder head cooling fins. This is on an O-360 with
a Aero-Classics cooler.
See here:
http://bowenaero.com/pix/lowcooler.jpg
Possible fixes:
1. Replace/reconstruct all baffling for that corner, next time raising
the cooler 1/4". (sigh)
2. Use only one bolt (the upper one) on the inboard side.
3. Use short bolt with head fwd in middle hole. Might clear
cylinder....
4. Relieve cylinder head cooling fins as needed to clear bolt/nutplate.
(cringe)
5. Other
Ideas? Thoughts?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
The majority of the toggle switches that I purchased came without
anti-rotation washers. I have looked in several catalogs (Newark, etc.) and
can not find them listed separately. Can one of you guys tell me where I
can buy anti-rotation washers separately?
Vince Welch
Find things fast with the new MSN Toolbar includes FREE pop-up blocking!
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Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Gosh, don't sweat it. Mount the switch and just put a dab of RTV on the
side.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vincent Welch
Subject: RV-List: Toggle Switches
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch"
<welchvincent@hotmail.com>
The majority of the toggle switches that I purchased came without
anti-rotation washers. I have looked in several catalogs (Newark, etc.)
and
can not find them listed separately. Can one of you guys tell me where
I
can buy anti-rotation washers separately?
Vince Welch
Find things fast with the new MSN Toolbar includes FREE pop-up
blocking!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
==
==
==
==
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Baffle/cooler problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Larry,
Why can't you just drill new holes in the oil cooler flanges, 1/4" or so
higher than the middle hole is now? That's what I did, for different
reasons, see:
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=133566&ck
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Baffle/cooler problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> I have an oil cooler dilemma. The cutout I made on the rear baffle is
> 1/4" too low, allowing the middle mounting bolt on the inboard side to
> interfere with the cylinder head cooling fins. This is on an O-360 with
> a Aero-Classics cooler.
>
> See here:
> http://bowenaero.com/pix/lowcooler.jpg
>
> Possible fixes:
>
> 1. Replace/reconstruct all baffling for that corner, next time raising
> the cooler 1/4". (sigh)
>
> 2. Use only one bolt (the upper one) on the inboard side.
>
> 3. Use short bolt with head fwd in middle hole. Might clear
> cylinder....
>
> 4. Relieve cylinder head cooling fins as needed to clear bolt/nutplate.
> (cringe)
>
> 5. Other
>
> Ideas? Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Toggle Switches |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
B&C sells 'em internal-tooth toggle switch lock washers as S700LW. You may
have to call the order in, since I don't think they're on the online
catalog.
http://www.bandc.biz
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Toggle Switches
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
>
> The majority of the toggle switches that I purchased came without
> anti-rotation washers. I have looked in several catalogs (Newark, etc.)
and
> can not find them listed separately. Can one of you guys tell me where I
> can buy anti-rotation washers separately?
>
> Vince Welch
>
> Find things fast with the new MSN Toolbar includes FREE pop-up blocking!
> http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl Inlet Ramps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Tommy,
Nobody's responded to this yet, so I'll take a stab...what I ended up doing
is this:
http://rvproject.com/images/2004/20040113_glassed_cowl_duct_sides.jpg
http://rvproject.com/images/2004/20040118_top_cowl_inlets.jpg
I glassed in the outboard gaps, and on the inboard edges of the ramps I
glassed it so it kind of tapers up and forward. It's not perfect, but it's
slightly better than it would have been without these mods.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Inlet Ramps
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
>
> While installing the baffle seal on my 6A, I realized that the upper cowl
inlet ramps present somewhat of a problem!? I don't know if I need to trim
the baffle metal to match the ramp contour or the cowl contour.
>
> If I trim metal to the ramp contour and let the rubber seal follow the
ramp it creates a huge air leak between the ramp and the cowl, which could
be stopped by fiber glassing the inboard ends of the ramp to the cowl. If I
elect to trim the metal to the cowl contour there will be a conflict between
the rubber seal and the edge of the ramp.
>
> Those of you that have been down this road will know what I'm talking
about. Question is how did you solve this problem on your baffle?? Any
suggestions welcome!
>
> Tommy Walker
> 6A Ridgetop, TN
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Baffle/cooler problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
One thought would be to rivet a re-enforcement around the hole and then
install a nutplate upside down thru the hole. When the bolt threads on your
tightened bolt show thru on the cylinder side, you are good to go!
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or sportpilot@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Baffle/cooler problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> I have an oil cooler dilemma. The cutout I made on the rear baffle is
> 1/4" too low, allowing the middle mounting bolt on the inboard side to
> interfere with the cylinder head cooling fins. This is on an O-360 with
> a Aero-Classics cooler.
>
> See here:
> http://bowenaero.com/pix/lowcooler.jpg
>
> Possible fixes:
>
> 1. Replace/reconstruct all baffling for that corner, next time raising
> the cooler 1/4". (sigh)
>
> 2. Use only one bolt (the upper one) on the inboard side.
>
> 3. Use short bolt with head fwd in middle hole. Might clear
> cylinder....
>
> 4. Relieve cylinder head cooling fins as needed to clear bolt/nutplate.
> (cringe)
>
> 5. Other
>
> Ideas? Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I have several hundred of them available along with the colored toggle
switch boots (red, yellow, blue, green, white, & black).
Drop me a line off list and I'll get you some anti-rotation washers!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vincent Welch
Subject: RV-List: Toggle Switches
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
The majority of the toggle switches that I purchased came without
anti-rotation washers. I have looked in several catalogs (Newark, etc.) and
can not find them listed separately. Can one of you guys tell me where I
can buy anti-rotation washers separately?
Vince Welch
Find things fast with the new MSN Toolbar includes FREE pop-up blocking!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
Message 13
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| Subject: | tip-up canopy strut brace |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
A while back I remember seeing somebody had a simple, elegant way to keep
the tip-up canopy propped up (pretty sure it was on an RV-6). It was
something that slipped over the shaft of the gas strut when the canopy was
open, preventing the canopy from coming down inadvertently.
Anybody out there know whaddamean? Was it just a piece of aluminum tubing?
I forget!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Weight/balance program |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Here are two wt&bal websites I've collected. I use the first one. Haven't
tried the 2nd.
http://www.mrkent.com/flying/wt-bal/login.asp
http://www.florintsev.com/wb/
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Aronson" <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Weight/balance program
> --> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
>
> hey listers:
> I have looked in the archives but can't find weight and balance program.
Anyone with a program I would appreciate it.
> Dave Aronson
> RV4 N504RV
> FINALLY FINISHED<) inspection Saturday
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 05:32 PM 3/1/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>Just be sure that you REALLY understand this system because when you land
>in the middle of North Dakota with an electrical problem YOU are going to
>be the expert - the mechanic on duty at the FBO isn't going to know squat
>about it.
My experience with mechanics and electrical problems is limited to two
incidents, one where a very young mechanic needed a little help
understanding alternators and regulators and the other, a very senior IA
said we'd have to remove the alternator and send it in. I gave a gentle
tug to the field lead and it fell off. Reconnect and problem fixed. He
still charged me for half an hour! He may have muttered, "Darn, another
alternator sale lost!"
My Debonair is mysterious enough but it does have a wiring diagram. (What
are those battery cable going to the panel?)
Finally, if you think Bob's systems are difficult, stay well away from
modern automobiles!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 16
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| Subject: | Baffle/cooler problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>I have an oil cooler dilemma. The cutout I made on the rear baffle is
>1/4" too low, allowing the middle mounting bolt on the inboard side to
>interfere with the cylinder head cooling fins. This is on an O-360 with
>a Aero-Classics cooler.
>
>See here:
>http://bowenaero.com/pix/lowcooler.jpg
>
>Possible fixes:
>
>1. Replace/reconstruct all baffling for that corner, next time raising
>the cooler 1/4". (sigh)
>
>2. Use only one bolt (the upper one) on the inboard side.
>
>3. Use short bolt with head fwd in middle hole. Might clear
>cylinder....
>
>4. Relieve cylinder head cooling fins as needed to clear bolt/nutplate.
>(cringe)
>
>5. Other
>
>Ideas? Thoughts?
>
>Thanks,
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
Use flush screw and dimple/countersink as needed. No more interference with
cooling fins.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Frustrated with dial-up? Lightning-fast Internet access for as low as
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: tip-up canopy strut brace |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> A while back I remember seeing somebody had a simple, elegant way to keep
> the tip-up canopy propped up (pretty sure it was on an RV-6). It was
> something that slipped over the shaft of the gas strut when the canopy was
> open, preventing the canopy from coming down inadvertently.
>
> Anybody out there know whaddamean? Was it just a piece of aluminum tubing?
> I forget!
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
Dan, slit a couple of lengths of rubber fuel hose and slip them over the
strut shafts. Works like a charm.
Sam Buchanan
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: tip-up canopy strut brace |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Hi Dan,
Go to your local hardware store and look at the screen door mechanisms.
(Like our struts). There is a simple locking device that can be fabricated
that will lock them in the up position. It simply slides down to the
cylinder and prevents the shaft from retracting.
Darwin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: tip-up canopy strut brace
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> A while back I remember seeing somebody had a simple, elegant way to keep
> the tip-up canopy propped up (pretty sure it was on an RV-6). It was
> something that slipped over the shaft of the gas strut when the canopy was
> open, preventing the canopy from coming down inadvertently.
>
> Anybody out there know whaddamean? Was it just a piece of aluminum
tubing?
> I forget!
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Baffle/cooler problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 3/2/04 6:20:31 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Larry@bowenaero.com writes:
<< I have an oil cooler dilemma. The cutout I made on the rear baffle is
1/4" too low, allowing the middle mounting bolt on the inboard side to
interfere with the cylinder head cooling fins. This is on an O-360 with
a Aero-Classics cooler.
>>
I had a similar problem Larry, same engine and seven row Aeroclassics, except
in my case it was the bottom bolt that interfered with the cylinder fins. I
just put the cooler on my drill press and put a new hole bolt hole through the
mounting flanges between the bottom and middle hole. Seems like it will work
fine but I'm not flying yet. I used nut plates on the forward side of the
rear baffle for the oil cooler mounting bolts. I also had to cut away aft
inboard cooler mounting flange around the middle bolt hole to clear the engine
mount, so used a short bolt just through the forward inboard hole in that
location. Hope this helps.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Weight/balance program |
--> RV-List message posted by: Warren W Hurd <warren@ahyup.com>
Another cool program for W&B:
http://bidasst.bizland.com/rv8wbp.htm
You can set it up for a RV4 or whatever,
Then it calculates the change in W&B over the duration of the flight!
Forgot where I found it.
Warren
http://ahyup.com
Message 21
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| Subject: | Van's 60 amp Alternator Kit (Boss Mount) for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
Still in the box with mounting brackets and plug. Vans sells this kit for
$250. See it online at:
<http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident1078254962-488672&bro
wseengines&productalternator>
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident1078254962-488672&brow
seengines&productalternator
I ended up having Aerosport Power install the B & C 60A model while they
were assembling our engine (came into an inheritance! ;-) Will sell for
$220 and I'll pay the shipping anywhere in the ConUS.
Please respond off-list only to kenbrooks@charter.net
Do Not Archive
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
N1903P-rsvd
Wiring!
Message 22
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| Subject: | Van's 60 amp Alternator Kit - Sold |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
Thanks to all who responded. The 60 amp alternator kit has been sold.
Do Not Archive
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Their first version is unheated, but their goal is to offer a heated one,
not sure if it is available yet.
Heated should only be required for icing, not all IFR though, or am I
misremembering that???
W
do not archive
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
I have survived one night VFR Alternator failure in a spam can. My RV 6A
is getting the Bob's electric experience with dual alternators and a RG
battery that will give me an hour in the air if both fail. Of course it is
also getting a very good IFR panel at the same time. I bought a 300 hour
old 6 with a basic VFR panel and I no longer want to fly at night without
an IFR capable plane.
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Swales contractor to the
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mail to: <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
Bob's system is so simple I could understand it on one read. I read it
again to make sure I was not kidding myself.
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Swales contractor to the
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mail to: <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov
Message 26
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| Subject: | tricks for keeping clean, draining preservative oil |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm about to drain the inhibiting/preservative oil from the engine, and I'm
curious if there are any neat tricks for keeping everything relatively clean
as the oil pours out the bottom plug holes?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Weight/balance program |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Dave,
If you have an PC type computer, try the program I wrote several years ago.
Go to:
http://www.matronics.com/enclosures.html/
Then go to August 29, 2001 (way at the bottom of the list). There you can
download a CG program. Then just run the program and it should install
itself on your computer and then have fun.
Let me know what you think. You can change any of the parameters you want.
It defaults to the numbers in Van's manuals back then. Email me directly if
you have a question.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Aronson" <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Weight/balance program
> --> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
>
> hey listers:
> I have looked in the archives but can't find weight and balance program.
Anyone with a program I would appreciate it.
> Dave Aronson
> RV4 N504RV
> FINALLY FINISHED<) inspection Saturday
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Oshkosh Camping Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
I'm not an outdoorsman but plan on flying the RV to OSH again this year and
now trying camping with it. My question is what tent (brand & type) would
you experienced RV-campers suggest? I will be alone and the tent won't be
used except for this and perhaps a few more years for RV events. Ideas?
John
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>Their first version is unheated, but their goal is to offer a heated one,
>not sure if it is available yet.
>
>Heated should only be required for icing, not all IFR though, or am I
>misremembering that???
>
>W
I guess it depends on what part of the world you are flying in, and
what time of the year. If you are going to fly IFR you need to be
ready to fly in cloud. If you are flying in cloud above the freezing
level, you could hit icing conditions. If your airframe starts icing
up you are probably OK if you take immediate action to exit the icing
conditions. That may be a climb or a descent or a 180, depending on
the situation. If your pitot ices up, and you can descent below the
freezing level, that will probably work out OK. But if your pitot
ices up and the situation dictates a climb then it might get pretty
interesting.
You could try to rely on the met forecasts to stay below the freezing
level. But the met guys don't always get it right, and it is real
hard to stay below the freezing level but above the minimum IFR
altitude in many parts of the world for much of the year.
We are not required to follow FAR 23, but it is smart to review what
it says, as those requirements usually have their root in lessons
learned in accidents. FAR 23.1323(d) says "If certification for
instrument flight rules or flight in icing conditions is requested,
each airspeed system must have a heated pitot tube or an equivalent
means of preventing malfunction due to icing."
So, if you plan to fly IFR I highly recommend a heated pitot.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Dimple or countersink 904/976/922 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Matthew,
I too called Vans about this. I was told to dimple anything up to and
including .040". I believe the spar flange there is .040. It is better to dimple
than to countersink because countersinking weakens the .040 more than dimpling
does. Dimpling makes a very strong joint, stronger than the rivet alone,
because of the interlocking of the two materials in shear. The reason for
countersinking where they say is to avoid having to countersink the floor
reinforcement angles to clear the dimples, which would leave them very thin where
the
shop heads would set.
Hope this helps,
Dan N766DH RV-7A (working on gear fairings)
In a message dated 2/29/04 1:41:46 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
matthew@n523rv.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
>
> I'm about ready to disassemble the center section assembly but before I do,
> I need some input. The F-972 floor skin overlaps the F-976 center section
> skin which in turn sits on the flange of the 904 E&F. The plans note four
> places you should countersink the 976/904 because this is where the floor angles
> attach on the inside. This implies that you should dimple the rest. The
> flange on the 904 is pretty thick, and dimpling this plus the two skins could
> leave a not so hot mating surfaces between them all.
>
> I'm thinking I'll countersink the entire row of 976 skin/904 flange and
> dimple the 972 skin to sit inside the countersink. Is this what others did??
Am
> I missing something??
>
>
> Matthew Brandes
> Van's RV-9A (Wings)
> EAA Chapter 91 &868
> www.n523rv.com
> matthew@n523rv.com
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Coming from a "Rocket Scientist" that statement has a different meaning than
for those of us regular oafs!!
Sorry, I couldn't resist!!!!! :)
All in fun.
Do Not Archive
-> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
Bob's system is so simple I could understand it on one read. I read it
again to make sure I was not kidding myself.
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Camping answer |
--> RV-List message posted by: Randy Simpson <airtime@proaxis.com>
Hi John,
Been there.
No need to get real fancy, but a basic tent (I just upgraded to a
lightweight Coleman 7'x7' dome tent since Oshkosh) for about $40.00, and
get a coleman air bed with a battery powered airpump. Having that six
inches of air floatation while sleeping makes for a good nights sleep, WAY
BETTER than those 2" pads, I've found.
Of course, you'll need a good set of Ti-downs, to hold your RV down while
parked there at Homebuilt heaven *wink*.
That's all you need to take to Osh (besides money)...tent, airbed, sleeping
bag, Ti-downs, RV...everything else is just fluff...
Sincerely
Randy Simpson
Ultralight flying, aircamping adventurer
p.s. here's a little ditty from an aircamping adventure last summer...
http://www.airtimemfg.com/greenpetereservoir/aircamping.htm
At 02:52 PM 3/2/04 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
>I'm not an outdoorsman but plan on flying the RV to OSH again this year and
>now trying camping with it. My question is what tent (brand & type) would
>you experienced RV-campers suggest? I will be alone and the tent won't be
>used except for this and perhaps a few more years for RV events. Ideas?
>
>John
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
I strongly agree with item no. 4 of Stein Bruch's reply.
I bought the wiring kit from Van's to speed up the wiring of my RV-7A, but
found the kit to be money wasted, about half of it was, anyway. In buying the
kit, I bought a lot of heavy gauge wire (starter and battery cable) which was
not used. They sell you every length you could possibly use with terminals
installed. You will only use 4 out of the 10 heavy (4 gauge) wires they sell
you. I would say they "give" you, but you are BUYING it.
I found Van's terminal block system unnecessary because every one of the
posts only goes to a circuit breaker. Therefore, why not just wire your lights,
radio, etc., directly to the breaker and save the weight and space? That's
what I did.
The wiring kit was the first time I felt that I got a bad deal from Van's.
I'm not a complainer (usually!) so I let it pass, and just used parts from the
kit and wrote it off to experience. Maybe someone on the RV-List will benefit
from this advice. Get the documentation, then buy what you need, either from
Van's or somewhere else. Buy or borrow a heavy crimping tool for the 4 to 10
gauge wire. Definitely use aircraft quality wire and terminals. Most of the
stuff you find today in the auto parts stores is not high quality.
I had not heard of Electric Bob at the time I was wiring my plane, or I'm
sure I'd gone his route. I may redo some of it, but its done now and I want to
fly the airplane first.
Dan RV-7A N766DH (almost done in IN)
4) Very few people actually build a panel to match the kit that Van's
> sells. Many of them end up cutting up Van's Wiring kit to use the wire, in
> which case it's almost a total waste of money (ok, not total waste--just
> overpriced). If you build a panel to their specs, it works fine.
> But....Add a Dynon, autopilot, GPS, engine monitor, etc.. and you'll need a
> lot more. That being said, if you are buying the Van's kit just for the
> wire and terminals, it's way more expensive than just buying the raw
> materials themselves.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: tricks for keeping clean,draining preservative oil |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
BE SURE to put a good funnel under the drain hole prior to removing the plug
!!! Then don't drop the plug in the drain pan.
Oil won't kill you unless ,you drink it ?/!
Good luck Dan;C'mon & get flying,
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Camping Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
John wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
>I'm not an outdoorsman but plan on flying the RV to OSH again this year and
>now trying camping with it. My question is what tent (brand & type) would
>you experienced RV-campers suggest? I will be alone and the tent won't be
>used except for this and perhaps a few more years for RV events. Ideas?
>
>John
>
Sure. By far, the best tent I've owned is a dome tent. Get a tent with
a rain fly so the tent can breathe. In cooler weather it's rather
unpleasant to roll over, hit the side of the tent and get rained on!!!
Check the height of the tent. It's always nice to be able to bend over
and pull your long pants on!!! Try and find a tent that will fit in
it's little bag and be about 18" long. The length of the pole segments
will decide how long the package is. Also, don't just buy cheap. The
better tents are worth the extra bucks.
Linn
>
>
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Oshkosh Camping Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
John
As a EAA Ambassador Volunteer that camps out there every year and drives
people around in a golf cart my I suggest you decide where you are going to
camp first
Choice ONE is camp with your plane, but now you are out next to the west end
of 9-27. This can be a hike to get anywhere. There is a shuttle bus and
golf carts . Or you may be at the way south end 18-36. Advantages you are
near your plane at night
Choice TWO is to camp in Camp Scholler just to adjacent to AIRVENTURE
Buildings. Advantages are you can park your plane and show it off with the
rest of the RV's. There is a grocery store at Camp Scholler and more
showers etc. The other big advantage is you can easily get over to Dick
Martins camp sight in the woods and drink his beer. If you don't know Dick,
he is the one on the RV Flight line with an all aluminum hopped up RV8 and a
straw hat
As for camping gear get a big tent & seam seal. If the tents says its a two
man don't believe then get a four man they are not that big
E mail me for other suggestions
Dane Sheahen
RV8a 140hrs
dane@mutualace.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh Camping Question
* > RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
I'm not an outdoorsman but plan on flying the RV to OSH again this year and
now trying camping with it. My question is what tent (brand & type) would
you experienced RV-campers suggest? I will be alone and the tent won't be
used except for this and perhaps a few more years for RV events. Ideas?
John
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Camping Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
John,
I started camping well over 40 years ago. After all these years, I can tell
you one thing; don't buy your tent at k-mart, Wal-Mart, target or any other
mass retailer. Bite the bullet and go to a bonifide outdoor shop and buy a
"QUALITY" tent. The cheap ones will leak when it rains, and they will likely
be blown down in a strong wind. If they are not blown down they will keep
you up at night when it's windy because of the poor construction and poor
fit, look for a tight fitting rain fly. A quality tent will have a lifetime
guarantee.
Also, get some heavy duty tent stakes to use at Oshkosh. Every year I see a
tent or two go flying by on a windy afternoon. I also see numerous cheap
tents that are well staked but they just get blown over and the tent poles
are usually broken.
If the price of a quality tent is too much to bear, try to find a used one.
If there is a college in your town, there's always some rich kids selling
the nice tent that mommy bought them because they used it once in their back
yard and now they need to buy some new Nike's or baggy pants (or worse).
Here's a few quality brands to look for: North Face, Marmot, Mountain
Hardware, Sierra Designs, Kelty, REI, EMS, Black Diamond, Eureka, MSR.
There's probably a few others but these will be the most common.
Avoid getting those giant size tents that are big enough to park a car in.
They are the most likely to be damaged in strong winds. A medium to low
profile tent that allows you to upright inside is best.
Bon Marche,
Cliff
> I'm not an outdoorsman but plan on flying the RV to OSH again this year
and
> now trying camping with it. My question is what tent (brand & type) would
> you experienced RV-campers suggest? I will be alone and the tent won't be
> used except for this and perhaps a few more years for RV events. Ideas?
>
> John
Message 38
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| Subject: | Alternator Warning Light Circuit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
Hi Rob
I might have posted this once before but not sure so I'll do it again.
I have a big red idiot light wired up in my four just as you describe. It is
in my post flight shut down scan and so far it has saved me leaving the
master on a couple of times. If you look at your alternator, you will see a
terminal in the plug that indicates that it is for a light. If it you can't
find this you need to identify which terminal is for the light. The light
is wired so it illuminates from a power source when the master is turned on.
The ground side of the light is wired to the terminal on the alternator that
you have identified as the one for an idiot light. While the alternator is
not turning this terminal provides the ground for the light and it is
illuminated. Once the alternator is turning and producing power, it sends
power to this terminal and as the light now has power coming from two sides
and no ground, it goes out. If the alternator begins to fail slowly, the
terminal becomes more and more of a ground and the light begins to
illuminate, just as it does in a car. Seems to work for me, although I
haven't had the alternator quite in flight as yet. I got this explanation
how they work from an old guy in an alternator rebuild shop.
Cheers.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob McAnally
Subject: RV-List: Alternator Warning Light Circuit
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob McAnally" <mcarob@tpg.com.au>
Hi,
Does anyone have a circuit to suit the following request.
I want to install an alternator warning light similar to auto installations.
i.e. light illuminates when the master switch is on and the engine is not
running, but goes out as soon as the alternator provides greater than the
battery voltage back to the system.
I have stock Vans equipment, a 35amp Nippondenso alternator and an
adjustable regulator (case to ground, voltage in, centre stud voltage to the
alternator).
I have a couple of circuits that are a little confusing and wonder if anyone
has ideas for this equipment.
Regards
Rob
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Bob's system is not difficult, it's just DIFFERENT and that can be a
real problem when you're dealing with a mechanic that doesn't know much
about electrical systems. Mind, I'm not knocking Bob's system - he's got
some very good ideas but, my airplane and systems are "standard
aircraft" and whether anyone thinks that it's obsolete technology or
not, it DOES work and works well and anyone that knows anything about
Cessna's or Bonanza's can work on it successfully and economically.
If you have an oddball electrical system just be sure that you carry
documentation on it and be sure that those docs are in the same
hieroglyphics that Cessna uses or the FBO won't be able to make any
sense of them.
Dave
do not archive
kempthornes wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
>At 05:32 PM 3/1/2004, you wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>>Just be sure that you REALLY understand this system because when you land
>>in the middle of North Dakota with an electrical problem YOU are going to
>>be the expert - the mechanic on duty at the FBO isn't going to know squat
>>about it.
>>
>>
>
>My experience with mechanics and electrical problems is limited to two
>incidents, one where a very young mechanic needed a little help
>understanding alternators and regulators and the other, a very senior IA
>said we'd have to remove the alternator and send it in. I gave a gentle
>tug to the field lead and it fell off. Reconnect and problem fixed. He
>still charged me for half an hour! He may have muttered, "Darn, another
>alternator sale lost!"
>
>My Debonair is mysterious enough but it does have a wiring diagram. (What
>are those battery cable going to the panel?)
>
>Finally, if you think Bob's systems are difficult, stay well away from
>modern automobiles!
>
>K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
>RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
>PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: tip-up canopy strut brace |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
I am just aboout to install my tip-up canopy struts. I'm puzzled that
this is even necessary. The struts seem pretty stout. How can the
canopy come down inadvertently? Are you referring to slow gas leaks in
the strut or do they just not work very well?
--
Tom Sargent
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: tip-up canopy strut brace
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>A while back I remember seeing somebody had a simple, elegant way to keep
>the tip-up canopy propped up (pretty sure it was on an RV-6). It was
>something that slipped over the shaft of the gas strut when the canopy was
>open, preventing the canopy from coming down inadvertently.
>
>Anybody out there know whaddamean? Was it just a piece of aluminum
>
>
>tubing?
>
>
>
>
>
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach-off subject |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> I strongly agree with item no. 4 of Stein Bruch's reply.
>
> I bought the wiring kit from Van's to speed up the wiring of my RV-7A, but
> found the kit to be money wasted, about half of it was, anyway. In buying the
> kit, I bought a lot of heavy gauge wire (starter and battery cable) which was
> not used. They sell you every length you could possibly use with terminals
> installed. You will only use 4 out of the 10 heavy (4 gauge) wires they sell
> you. I would say they "give" you, but you are BUYING it.
>
> I found Van's terminal block system unnecessary because every one of the
> posts only goes to a circuit breaker. Therefore, why not just wire your lights,
> radio, etc., directly to the breaker and save the weight and space? That's
> what I did.
>
> The wiring kit was the first time I felt that I got a bad deal from Van's.
> I'm not a complainer (usually!) so I let it pass, and just used parts from the
> kit and wrote it off to experience. Maybe someone on the RV-List will benefit
> from this advice. Get the documentation, then buy what you need, either from
> Van's or somewhere else. Buy or borrow a heavy crimping tool for the 4 to 10
> gauge wire. Definitely use aircraft quality wire and terminals. Most of the
> stuff you find today in the auto parts stores is not high quality.
>
> I had not heard of Electric Bob at the time I was wiring my plane, or I'm
> sure I'd gone his route. I may redo some of it, but its done now and I want
to
> fly the airplane first.
>
> Dan RV-7A N766DH (almost done in IN)
>
> 4) Very few people actually build a panel to match the kit that Van's
> > sells. Many of them end up cutting up Van's Wiring kit to use the wire, in
> > which case it's almost a total waste of money (ok, not total waste--just
> > overpriced). If you build a panel to their specs, it works fine.
> > But....Add a Dynon, autopilot, GPS, engine monitor, etc.. and you'll need a
> > lot more. That being said, if you are buying the Van's kit just for the
> > wire and terminals, it's way more expensive than just buying the raw
> > materials themselves.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Stein Bruch
> > RV6's, Minneapolis
> >
> >
I had a bad experience with Van's " rebuilt" alternator.I disassenbled the end
bells
to cut a cooling hole in it for the diodes.after it was opened, I found one broken
diode and all leads were poorly soldered or not soldered at all. The wires had
been
so hot , the insulation was melted back on them. The outside had been glass beaded
but the inside was a mess. Not "rebuilt" as I had paid for. It was the 35 amp
nipondenso. I would recommend buyers to check out their local auto supply first.
Unfortunately a lot of stuff gets bought way in advance and the 30 day return policy
has long been expired when it is time to install it. I also wrote it off to
experience.
Hopefully I can buy a set of diodes for it. Has anyone ever replaced them or know
if
they are available?
Phil in Illinois
do not archive
Message 42
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
A heated pitot is required for a spam can for IFR, pretty important in any
airplane for IFR, and ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL for IFR with a Dynon, because if
it loses pitot pressure, the horizon doesn't work very well at all.
A related comment,
I am flying IFR with my Dynon, and I strongly recommend it for a VFR
airplane, but for IFR, it is still an "experimental" device. I was flying
home from Oklahoma City last Sunday and had to cross a line of heavy rain.
There was some moderate turbulence and the Dynon gets pretty jumpy in that
kind of WX. The heading was all over the place, the pitch and bank were
really jumpy, and I was depending on my Navaid/Altrak more than I care to
admit..... When I unloaded my baggage compartment I realized that I had a
big screwdriver (which was a gift from Klien Tool at the National Warbird
Operators Conference) in the baggage compartment that was raising hell with
the magnetometer. I am gonna have to move it.....
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
I love my Dynon, but I could love it more........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon Pitot
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Their first version is unheated, but their goal is to offer a heated one,
> not sure if it is available yet.
>
> Heated should only be required for icing, not all IFR though, or am I
> misremembering that???
>
> W
> do not archive
>
>
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: tip-up canopy strut brace |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> I am just aboout to install my tip-up canopy struts. I'm puzzled that
> this is even necessary. The struts seem pretty stout. How can the
> canopy come down inadvertently? Are you referring to slow gas leaks in
> the strut or do they just not work very well?
> --
> Tom Sargent
A strong wind can do it, especially after a few years of leak down.
do not archive
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 44
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|
"RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>,
"Bruce MacInnes" <m_motorsports@hotmail.com>
| Subject: | Re: Cool oil temps cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
Thanks Bruce - I have the E2A in my -4 - what size ball valve and where did
you get it?
To you listers - this should be self ezplanatory.
Jim
---- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce MacInnes" <m_motorsports@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Cool oil temps cure
Jim,
The cooler baffles don't work. I have a stainless steel ball valve inline to
my cooler with a push-pull cable to the panel. It is the only thing that
will get the job done on my 0-320 E2D powered RV-4. As I understand it, a
fully closed vernatherm still flows some oil, most likely to prevent oil
from congealing in the cooler. I try to open my valve (slowly) on every
flight to prevent this problem...This system has been in place for many
years, is very convenient, and is perfect on long flights (to Florida) when
the temperature changes...Feel free to post this to the RV-list. I do not
subscribe, but I do like to chec it out...Information on this can be found
in the archives.
Bruce MacInnes
Senior Instructor
The Skip Barber Racing School
860-435-4270 W
413-229-8853 H
N 14 FT - 463 TT
Message 45
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--> RV-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" <cjh@execpc.com>
Vince,
Here's one source: http://pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/048.pdf
Part No. 4428 near upper right corner of page.
Chris Heitman
RV-9A N94ME
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
The majority of the toggle switches that I purchased came without
anti-rotation washers. I have looked in several catalogs (Newark, etc.) and
can not find them listed separately. Can one of you guys tell me where I
can buy anti-rotation washers separately?
Vince Welch
---
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: tip-up canopy strut brace |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I am just aboout to install my tip-up canopy struts. I'm puzzled that
> this is even necessary. The struts seem pretty stout. How can the
> canopy come down inadvertently? Are you referring to slow gas leaks in
> the strut or do they just not work very well?
Am I correct in assuming you have a nosewheeler?
My theory is that enough headwind, plus the tail-on-ground attitude, would
be enough to force the canopy down and ruin my day. I just want to take
every precaution possible to keep that sucker from coming down
inadvertently.
The gas struts do seem to weaken with age, according to the reports I've
read, but I'm paranoid even with my "new" ones (~2 years since receiving
them). They're stout, and you have to pull the canopy down a fair way
before the struts give out, but I ain't takin' any chances! 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: tip-up canopy strut brace
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
>
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: tip-up canopy strut brace
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> >A while back I remember seeing somebody had a simple, elegant way to keep
> >the tip-up canopy propped up (pretty sure it was on an RV-6). It was
> >something that slipped over the shaft of the gas strut when the canopy
was
> >open, preventing the canopy from coming down inadvertently.
> >
> >Anybody out there know whaddamean? Was it just a piece of aluminum
> >
> >
> >tubing?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Re: Electric Bob Weekend Class This Week in Groton, CT |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
The class is $150 but the book is not included. It is discounted to $20
with the class and can be shipped to your house prior to the class. I'm
signed up for the class in Kalamazoo, MI on 20-21 March 04. I hope to learn
a bunch because I'm planning a 2-screen GRT EFIS and Engine Monitor and I'm
an electrical idiot!
Doug Fischer
-9A 90706 Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Electric Bob Weekend Class This Week in Groton, CT
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
>
> Sorry for the blatant ad copy, but our EAA chapter is hosting Electric Bob
> this weekend in Groton, CT and I thought now might be a good time for
> another pitch.
>
> You can sign up for the 2 day class at his web site:
> www.aeroelectric.com
> Cost is I THINK $150 and that includes his book.
>
> If you'd like to attend but are worried about a place to stay, give me a
> call. (860-625-7853) We'll find something cheap, or free (my house,
pending
> my wife's approval) for you.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Don Mei
> Vice President EAA 334
> RV-4
> 3B9 - Chester, CT
>
>
> "All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
> the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
>
> Find things fast with the new MSN Toolbar includes FREE pop-up blocking!
> http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
>
>
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Van's alternator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@consolidated.net>
> I had a bad experience with Van's " rebuilt" alternator.I disassenbled the end
bells
> to cut a cooling hole in it for the diodes.after it was opened, I found one broken
> diode and all leads were poorly soldered or not soldered at all. The wires had
been
> so hot , the insulation was melted back on them. The outside had been glass beaded
> but the inside was a mess. Not "rebuilt" as I had paid for. It was the 35 amp
> nipondenso. I would recommend buyers to check out their local auto supply first.
> Unfortunately a lot of stuff gets bought way in advance and the 30 day return
policy
> has long been expired when it is time to install it. I also wrote it off to
> experience.
>
> Hopefully I can buy a set of diodes for it. Has anyone ever replaced them or
know if
> they are available?
>
> Phil in Illinois
Phil, the alternator is a NipponDenso as used on 1976-1979 Honda Civic
CVCC without air conditioning. A common number you can find in Duralast
and other reman alternators is 14184. About $49.00 at Advance Auto and
Autozone. When I replaced my Vans alternator recently, I left the fan on
the 14184.
Sam Buchanan
Message 49
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|
| Subject: | Re: Strobe power supply repair |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
FWIW, I had an Aeroflash strobe power supply go bad, flat rate around $45 for
repair. Works great now!
-Mike Kraus
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's vs Electric Bob's approach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Matt Jurotich wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
>
>I have survived one night VFR Alternator failure in a spam can. My RV 6A
>is getting the Bob's electric experience with dual alternators and a RG
>battery that will give me an hour in the air if both fail. Of course it is
>also getting a very good IFR panel at the same time. I bought a 300 hour
>old 6 with a basic VFR panel and I no longer want to fly at night without
>an IFR capable plane.
>
>Matthew M. Jurotich
>
>NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
>Swales contractor to the
>JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
>
Whoa!
For safety sake... don't you need TWO engines for night flying as well?
:-)
Bob - 50 years since solo
Do NOT archive
Message 51
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|
| Subject: | Re: Weight/balance program |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Tom Gummo wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
>Dave,
>
>If you have an PC type computer, try the program I wrote several years ago.
>Go to:
>
>http://www.matronics.com/enclosures.html/
>
>Then go to August 29, 2001 (way at the bottom of the list). There you can
>download a CG program. Then just run the program and it should install
>itself on your computer and then have fun.
>
>Let me know what you think. You can change any of the parameters you want.
>It defaults to the numbers in Van's manuals back then. Email me directly if
>you have a question.
>
>Tom
>
===================================
I've been using your program since it appeared in 2001.
It's the best.
Kudos!!!
Many thanks.
Bob
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Camping Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
They have just opened up a new camp ground with new show house I believe
west of the tower for home builts. Check the EAA web site. www.eaa.org
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or sportpilot@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Oshkosh Camping Question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
>
> John
>
> As a EAA Ambassador Volunteer that camps out there every year and drives
> people around in a golf cart my I suggest you decide where you are going
to
> camp first
>
> Choice ONE is camp with your plane, but now you are out next to the west
end
> of 9-27. This can be a hike to get anywhere. There is a shuttle bus and
> golf carts . Or you may be at the way south end 18-36. Advantages you are
> near your plane at night
>
> Choice TWO is to camp in Camp Scholler just to adjacent to AIRVENTURE
> Buildings. Advantages are you can park your plane and show it off with
the
> rest of the RV's. There is a grocery store at Camp Scholler and more
> showers etc. The other big advantage is you can easily get over to Dick
> Martins camp sight in the woods and drink his beer. If you don't know
Dick,
> he is the one on the RV Flight line with an all aluminum hopped up RV8 and
a
> straw hat
>
> As for camping gear get a big tent & seam seal. If the tents says its a
two
> man don't believe then get a four man they are not that big
>
> E mail me for other suggestions
>
> Dane Sheahen
> RV8a 140hrs
> dane@mutualace.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
> Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 3:53 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh Camping Question
>
> * > RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
> I'm not an outdoorsman but plan on flying the RV to OSH again this year
and
> now trying camping with it. My question is what tent (brand & type) would
> you experienced RV-campers suggest? I will be alone and the tent won't be
> used except for this and perhaps a few more years for RV events. Ideas?
> John
>
>
Message 53
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
Currently fitting my fuel tank to my wings. I followed Dan C's method of aligning,
and I have the tank aligned perfectly (L to R). The only problem I see is
that the leading edge on the tank protrudes *slightly* more than the leading
edge on the outboards section. I would estimate the protrusion to be about the
thickness of the skin. Anyone else experience this? I did remove the plastic
already. My only thoughts might be to sand the surface of the z-brackets
down a bit. Only concern might be that's a lot of work (x7) and I am afraid I
may mess it up worse. Am I being too picky here? I thought I saw a similar
post recently but could not dig it up in the archives.
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | Van's alternator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
> > Hopefully I can buy a set of diodes for it. Has anyone ever replaced
>them or know if
> > they are available?
> >
> > Phil in Illinois
>
>
>Phil, the alternator is a NipponDenso as used on 1976-1979 Honda Civic
>CVCC without air conditioning. A common number you can find in Duralast
>and other reman alternators is 14184. About $49.00 at Advance Auto and
>Autozone. When I replaced my Vans alternator recently, I left the fan on
>the 14184.
>
>Sam Buchanan
I just received a 14184 per Sam's specs from Autozone. It's a rebuild, but
appears to be very nicely done...very clean, spins smoothly, etc. I don't
plan to split the case to check diodes unless curiosity gets the best of me!
It will be kept as a spare, and if needed, the fan will stay on.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 55
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|
| Subject: | Re: Weight/balance program |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Thanks, Bob.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Weight/balance program
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
>
>
> Tom Gummo wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
> >
> >Dave,
> >
> >If you have an PC type computer, try the program I wrote several years
ago.
> >Go to:
> >
> >http://www.matronics.com/enclosures.html/
> >
> >Then go to August 29, 2001 (way at the bottom of the list). There you
can
> >download a CG program. Then just run the program and it should install
> >itself on your computer and then have fun.
> >
> >Let me know what you think. You can change any of the parameters you
want.
> >It defaults to the numbers in Van's manuals back then. Email me directly
if
> >you have a question.
> >
> >Tom
> >
> ===================================
>
> I've been using your program since it appeared in 2001.
> It's the best.
> Kudos!!!
>
> Many thanks.
>
> Bob
>
>
Message 56
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| Subject: | Wiring the Nuckolls way or ....... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Dave RV6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Wrote
"Guys,
Just be sure that you REALLY understand this system because when you land in the
middle of North Dakota with an electrical problem YOU are going to be the expert
- the mechanic on duty at the FBO isn't going to know squat about it. And
of course there's the poor shmuck that you sell it to later on...."
He's absolutely right. Of course with up to date wire books and well labelled
wiring a competent electrician should be well able to follow the logic of Bob's
designs. The key is the up to date wire books and the carefully labelled wires.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
Message 57
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Jeff wrote:
Subject: Re: Trailing edge of new rudder
"used clear RTV on the trailing edge of my elevator"
I have heard, (you know that can be, though) that RTV may corrode aluminum. Probably
the acetic acid as it cures. Something to watch. This was noted by some
people that used it to cure the oil-canning of -4 and -6 type control surfaces.
Also, keep it away from your canopy, unless it's the type approved for electronics.
Once again, just stuff from past threads on this forum. FWIW etc.
Jeff
This is quite correct and easily dealt with. Make sure that any silicone / rtv
you use on metal is the neutral cure type.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: tip-up canopy strut brace |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
>
>The gas struts do seem to weaken with age, according to the reports I've
>read, but I'm paranoid even with my "new" ones (~2 years since receiving
>them). They're stout, and you have to pull the canopy down a fair way
>before the struts give out, but I ain't takin' any chances! 8-)
>
>
Even if only one of them goes, it could cause your canopy to come
crashing down in a most disturbing way. This happened to me shortly
after finishing the canopy, due to a defective strut. Try unhooking one
of them, and see how well the other holds the canopy up. Van's replaced
it free of charge. I'm glad I didn't have to bargain with them to
replace the canopy destroyed as a result of the failed strut!
Jeff Point
RV-6 inspection this saturday
Milwaukee WI
>
>
>
>
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