Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:05 AM - Re: Help me stop my engine (Stein Bruch)
2. 05:14 AM - Carbon panel (Dana Overall)
3. 05:27 AM - Re: Carbon panel (Ned Thomas)
4. 05:50 AM - Re: RSA Injection Basics, was (Help me stop my engine) . (linn walters)
5. 05:54 AM - New Grand Rapids 4000 EIS for sale (WALTER KERR)
6. 06:28 AM - Re: Help me stop my engine (Scott Bilinski)
7. 06:29 AM - Navaid Autopilot Operation (Ronnie Brown)
8. 06:43 AM - Re: Help me stop my engine (Alex Peterson)
9. 06:44 AM - Re: Help me stop my engine (Bob U.)
10. 06:48 AM - Re: Carbon panel (Dana Overall)
11. 06:54 AM - Re: Help me stop my engine (Jason Sneed)
12. 06:57 AM - Re: Help me stop my engine (Alex Peterson)
13. 07:10 AM - Re: shut-down procedure (Jason Sneed)
14. 07:15 AM - Re: Help me stop my engine (Jason Sneed)
15. 07:18 AM - Re: Help me stop my engine (Scott Bilinski)
16. 07:29 AM - Re: Re: shut-down procedure (Bob U.)
17. 07:29 AM - Re: Help me stop my engine (Scott Bilinski)
18. 07:29 AM - Fw: help me stop my engine (Jason Sneed)
19. 07:30 AM - Re: Help me stop my engine (Jason Sneed)
20. 07:35 AM - Re: Carbon panel (Darwin N. Barrie)
21. 07:51 AM - Re: Help me stop my engine (Jason Sneed)
22. 08:11 AM - Re: Help me stop my engine (Ross Schlotthauer)
23. 08:11 AM - Re: Re: shut-down procedure (Dave Bristol)
24. 08:15 AM - Re: Carbon panel (Scott Bilinski)
25. 08:20 AM - Re: Carbon panel (Dan Checkoway)
26. 08:44 AM - Alternators - Reliability, Preventive Replacement (RV_8 Pilot)
27. 08:46 AM - Re: Carbon panel (Bill Dube)
28. 08:48 AM - Re: Carbon panel (Darwin N. Barrie)
29. 09:01 AM - Safety Question (Kevin Warren)
30. 09:05 AM - Safety Question (Kevin Warren)
31. 09:24 AM - Re: Safety Question (Tedd McHenry)
32. 09:56 AM - Re: Safety Question (Scott Bilinski)
33. 09:56 AM - Re: Carbon panel (Darwin N. Barrie)
34. 10:00 AM - Re: Carbon panel (Steve Eberhart)
35. 10:11 AM - Re: Carbon panel (Dana Overall)
36. 10:15 AM - Cylinder Blocker (Kyle Boatright)
37. 10:29 AM - Re: Carbon panel (Steve Eberhart)
38. 11:01 AM - Re: Cylinder Blocker (Stein Bruch)
39. 11:13 AM - TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Ken Simmons)
40. 11:30 AM - Re: Cylinder Blocker (Scott Bilinski)
41. 11:34 AM - Re: Safety Question (Kevin Warren)
42. 01:54 PM - Exhaust Bracket Failure (Bluecavu@aol.com)
43. 02:02 PM - iPAQ Pilot Log... (Bill VonDane)
44. 02:03 PM - iPAQ Pilot Log... (Bill VonDane)
45. 02:04 PM - Wood Prop... (Bill VonDane)
46. 02:05 PM - Wood Prop... (Bill VonDane)
47. 02:16 PM - Re: Wood Prop... (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
48. 02:38 PM - Re: iPAQ Pilot Log... (Rob Prior)
49. 02:39 PM - Re: Wood Prop... (Bob U.)
50. 02:41 PM - Re: alternator cooling (Doug Weiler)
51. 02:50 PM - Fw: Wood Prop... (Bill VonDane)
52. 02:58 PM - Re: Wood Prop... (Rob Prior)
53. 03:32 PM - Re: alternator cooling (Skylor Piper)
54. 03:39 PM - Exhaust Bracket Failure (Gabe A Ferrer)
55. 04:57 PM - Re: alternator maintenance (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
56. 05:24 PM - alternator notes (Wheeler North)
57. 05:24 PM - Re: Cylinder Blocker (Pat Hatch)
58. 05:50 PM - Re: Carbon panel (Bill Dube)
59. 06:04 PM - Re: Carbon panel (Bill Dube)
60. 06:25 PM - Oshkosh (Wheeler North)
61. 06:36 PM - Re: Carbon panel (Bill Dube)
62. 07:18 PM - Re: alternator notes (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
63. 07:33 PM - Re: alternator notes (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
64. 08:46 PM - Vetterman Crossover for sale (Steve Hamer)
65. 09:28 PM - Re: alternator cooling (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
66. 10:22 PM - wood props and IFR (Dj Merrill)
67. 11:19 PM - Re: Van's alternator - $18 at Pep boys (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
68. 11:22 PM - Re: Exhaust Bracket Failure (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
69. 11:32 PM - Re: Help me stop my engine (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
Message 1
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| Subject: | Help me stop my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Oooops! I should have been more carefull about my rambling monologue!!!
I should have stated my whole note was based more aimed at the RSA system.
Realizing the RSA and AFP systems are very similar, but not identical.
So....You've got to keep that in mind when reading my post...seems the AFP
works a tad different in this area than the stock RSA systems, of which many
never had/have a purge valve!!
I should have remembered the 11th commandment..."Thou Shall not type long
notes after midnight"!
Cheers,
Stein
P.S., I'd still check the idle mixture adjustment!
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: Help me stop my engine
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Jason, I want to reiterate what Terry said. Read the AFP manual and you'll
see that they even state (I forget where, but it's in there), that pulling
the mixture will still allow X fuel flow, and that the purge valve is the
way they encourage shutdowns.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Help me stop my engine
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> Jason,
>
> I have heard that this is the biggest reason for installing the purge
valve
> with an Airflow Performance fuel injection system. For some reason the
> mixture apparently doesn't always shut the fuel off enough to stop the
> engine. Pulling the purge valve diverts the fuel from the injectors to
the
> return line and the engine quits.
>
> Note that this is not from my own experience. I am still at the wiring
> stage, but my Superior XP-IO-360-B1B came from Bart with the purge valve
> already installed. A call to Airflow Performance ought to get you an
> authoritative answer.
>
> Terry
> RV-8A #80729 wiring
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
> For the last 2 months I have had a problem I can not figure out and
> wanted to see if anyone has a direction to point me. I have a 6 with a
> o-360 with the airflow performance fuel injection system. When I
> shutdown, the engine is dieseling really bad. I did not know the term
> dieseling but it basically means the engine will not shutdown fuel gets
> ignited somehow and keeps turning the engine over. I pull the mixture
> to idle cut off and then hit the electronic ignition and the mag and
> the master.
>
>
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
After seeing the carbon look alike panel at the fly-in last Saturday, my
interest was sparked, to say the least. After looking around, talking
around and phoning around.......I found the carbon panels on the market
today were just way too expensive. I reverted to my plastic airplane days,
grabbed a pane of glass, some carbon fiber, piece of rolled plastic, car wax
and West System. I laid this up in about 20 minutes and popped it off the
glass later on in the day. I'll end up my clear coated, UV protected real
carbon fiber panel for next to nothing. This is just a test piece to
determine the number of layups to get the thickness I want. This is three
layers and measures right at 038.
Certainly not for everyone and for sure do not archive this totally useless
post:-)
http://rvflying.tripod.com/carbonpanel.jpg
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page download MSN Toolbar now!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Carbon panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ned Thomas" <315@cox.net>
Dana,
Can you give more details? Where to get the fabric and what to order, What
to use for UV protection, eetc.
Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Carbon panel
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> After seeing the carbon look alike panel at the fly-in last Saturday, my
> interest was sparked, to say the least. After looking around, talking
> around and phoning around.......I found the carbon panels on the market
> today were just way too expensive. I reverted to my plastic airplane
days,
> grabbed a pane of glass, some carbon fiber, piece of rolled plastic, car
wax
> and West System. I laid this up in about 20 minutes and popped it off the
> glass later on in the day. I'll end up my clear coated, UV protected real
> carbon fiber panel for next to nothing. This is just a test piece to
> determine the number of layups to get the thickness I want. This is three
> layers and measures right at 038.
>
> Certainly not for everyone and for sure do not archive this totally
useless
> post:-)
>
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/carbonpanel.jpg
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
> do not archive
>
> One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page download MSN Toolbar now!
> http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RSA Injection Basics, was (Help me stop my engine) . |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Stein, thanks for FI 101. I know more about the system than I did
before. In my post, I read over the FI part. Sorry. As for the
induction leak .... it just makes it easier for the small amount of fuel
available to get enough air to burn.
My question is with the purge valve. Is this a manual valve? If not,
how does it distinguish between vapor and liquid???
Linn
Stein Bruch wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>I'll pre-emp this by saying I'm not trying to flame anyone here, I just
>can't think of the politically correct words to type, and since I'm a "tell
>it like it is" kind of guy, here you go!
>
>OK....Time for a quick lesson on injection....Obviously more than a couple
>people could use some basics on injection (really, I mean this helpfully,
>not sarcastically).
>
>#1) The RSA/AFP injection systems are pretty simple, not much to go wrong.
>
>#2) The RSA/AFP injection system does NOT use a separate primer circuit at
>all...see #3)
>
>#3) The RSA/AFP injection system is a constant flow system, meaning that
>(hopefully) anytime the mixture is not in ICO, fuel is flowing into the
>intake ports if either the engine is running or the mixture is not in ICO.
>Priming is accomplished by moving the mixture to rich, and turning on the
>boost pump for a specified amount of time (seems different on each persons
>Lyc), usually 4-8 seconds. These fuel systems run around 20-30psi, instead
>of 2-4psi for the carb's.
>
>#4) The AFP purge valve is usually installed to help starting, NOT stopping
>a F.I. Lyc. The problem with the RSA type system that has the bare
>Stainless Steel distribution lines above the cylinder, is that usually after
>shutdown, the fuel remaining in distribution lines is boiled and ends up in
>the intake ports, resulting in a "pseudo" flooded engine - more like just an
>abundance of fuel/vapors. Since a typical FI system has the metered fuel
>line running from the servo up to the spider on top of the engine routed
>between cylinders #1 & #3, all of these components contribute to quick heat
>soaking if fuel is not moving through them. The spider/flow divider has a
>small ball/check valve installed in them to help with this phenomenon.
>
>#5) The thought behind the purge valve is to allow an operator to circulate
>fresh cool fuel to the flow divider before starting the engine and gettin
>rid of all the vapor bubbles in the line to that point. At least that's the
>claim, in real life, I've seen little benefit on heat soaked engine/hot day
>combinations between my -360 w/o a purge valve and the guys that have them
>installed. Without electronic ignition, they all can be a bear to start
>when hot/hot.
>
>#6) Using the purge valve to shutoff the engine is not a wise thing, you're
>just "bandaiding" the real problem, which obviously is with the servo / ICO
>itself.
>
>#7) The Servo uses "blast tubes" to measure the air moving through the
>servo. These only start working above a normal idle, as at normal idle, the
>butterfly is almost completely close. Hence the Idle circuit builit into
>the servo. This is an adjustable circuit which allows the operator to adjust
>a flow of fuel relative to the throttle being at idle. Like I just said,
>the idle mixture adjustment is hooked to the throttle, NOT the mixture, so
>you adjust the fuel flow at idle accordingly.
>
>Here's where I would start. Check the adjustment on the idle mixture arm,
>it's the little square threaded portion with the spring keeper / star shaped
>wheel in the center of it. Make sure that hasn't either moved a great deal
>or even come disconnected. Make sure you are still getting a small rise in
>RPM right before ICO. If not, then it's a prett good indication that the
>idle mixture is out of adjustment.
>
>Either way, I would start with the idle mixture adjustment. This can be
>done with the engine idling and you can adjust it with the engine running.
>WARNING -DO NOT DO THIS ALONE, make sure someone is in the cockpit holding
>the breaks, and WARNING - WATCH THE PROP, always keep one hand holding onto
>the engine mount. The smart thing to do is basically sit on the wheel with
>the L/G between your legs to keep yourself from accidentally falling into
>the prop. This is for a TD, don'e know about a nosewheel airplane. If
>you're not comfortable working on a running engine, DON'T do it, get someone
>who is experienced to do it. Too many accidents have happened that way!
>
>The fact that you're having problems at slower idle would also point the the
>above diagnosis. You should easily be able to get these things to lope
>along at 550-650RPM.
>
>When idling, do you get any backfiring, or is the exhaust puffing white or
>black colored smoke?? Also indicates something amiss with the idle mixture
>or as mentioned earlier, a possible induction leak, althought an induction
>lead shouldn't have any bearing on the engine continuing to get fuel after
>ICO.
>
>OK, that's it for my rant. The idle mixture can be a finiky thing when out
>of adjustment, so I'd start there. If no progress, then something else is
>wrong. Last thing, check the mixture arm on the servo to make sure it has't
>moved a notch or something like that - I've seen it happen! The servo's
>should be good for at least 1500hrs, or engine TBO if taken care of and kept
>in adjustment. Usually the rubber diaphrams wear out, and the throttle arm
>bushings wear, but rarely to they just plain quit working.
>
>Best of luck, keep us informed!
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6's, Minneapolis (1 injected & 1 carb'd).
>
>http://www.steinair.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jason Sneed
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Help me stop my engine
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
>For the last 2 months I have had a problem I can not figure out and
>wanted to see if anyone has a direction to point me. I have a 6 with a
>o-360 with the airflow performance fuel injection system. When I
>shutdown, the engine is dieseling really bad. I did not know the term
>dieseling but it basically means the engine will not shutdown fuel gets
>ignited somehow and keeps turning the engine over. I pull the mixture
>to idle cut off and then hit the electronic ignition and the mag and
>the master. I do all this with about 1000 rpm. Before this started
>happening I could shutdown any way I wanted with no problem. The only
>way to get the prop to stop spinning and vibrating the heck out of the
>airplane is to shove the mixture to full rich while everything else is
>off and the engine is just dieseling. Not only is this causing damage
>(exhaust breakage) it is dangerous. Tonight I cleaned (sand blasted)
>all the top plugs, this made no difference. Has anyone had this
>happen? What should I do next? I am suspect of the mixture control but
>last time I checked the control was hitting the stop. The only thing I
>did right before this happened was add avblend to the oil (I know that
>should have nothing to do with the problem). The oil has been changed
>since the avblend and I still have the problem.
>
>Any ideas to help my RV not come off as a clunker on the flight line?
>
>
>Jason Sneed
>Commercial Lending Officer
>First National Bank and Trust
>http://www.highland-parks.com/n242ds/index.html
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | New Grand Rapids 4000 EIS for sale |
Seal-Send-Time: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 08:49:05 -0500
--> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
Never installed 4000 for sale. Save over $100. I ordered this unit thinking I would
be ready to fly before Tracy Crook at RWS had his EIS ready for market for
my 9A rotary. He held to schedule but I didn't :>( His unit is disigned with
the rotary in mind so I would rather use it now.
Call for details, I will pay for shipping
Bernie Kerr
772 466 6701
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Help me stop my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
AFP recommends turning off the engine by activating the fuel bypass valve.
Pulling the mixture all the way back still allows enough fuel to barely
keep the engine running. I tried killing the engine this way once, it was
painful.
At 11:17 PM 3/4/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
>
>Lower your idle.
>Jim
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds@cox.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Help me stop my engine
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>>
>> For the last 2 months I have had a problem I can not figure out and
>> wanted to see if anyone has a direction to point me. I have a 6 with a
>> o-360 with the airflow performance fuel injection system. When I
>> shutdown, the engine is dieseling really bad. I did not know the term
>> dieseling but it basically means the engine will not shutdown fuel gets
>> ignited somehow and keeps turning the engine over. I pull the mixture
>> to idle cut off and then hit the electronic ignition and the mag and
>> the master. I do all this with about 1000 rpm. Before this started
>> happening I could shutdown any way I wanted with no problem. The only
>> way to get the prop to stop spinning and vibrating the heck out of the
>> airplane is to shove the mixture to full rich while everything else is
>> off and the engine is just dieseling. Not only is this causing damage
>> (exhaust breakage) it is dangerous. Tonight I cleaned (sand blasted)
>> all the top plugs, this made no difference. Has anyone had this
>> happen? What should I do next? I am suspect of the mixture control but
>> last time I checked the control was hitting the stop. The only thing I
>> did right before this happened was add avblend to the oil (I know that
>> should have nothing to do with the problem). The oil has been changed
>> since the avblend and I still have the problem.
>>
>> Any ideas to help my RV not come off as a clunker on the flight line?
>>
>>
>> Jason Sneed
>> Commercial Lending Officer
>> First National Bank and Trust
>> http://www.highland-parks.com/n242ds/index.html
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Navaid Autopilot Operation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
For those of you who have the Navaid autopilot, read on. The rest of you
can ignore this note.
After flying my Velocity for a year, I decided to try to improve the
operation of my Navaid autopilot. (Sorry, but I follow the RV list since
there are 10 times more RV's than Velocities - you use the same engines and
avionics as Velocities - thanks for the great answers and information!!!!)
The Navaid has been working great in wing leveler mode - but I haven't been
real happy with they way it tracked the GPS signals via the Porcine coupler.
(I had already had the Porcine chip replaced because they had problems with
the aviation data stream that comes out of panel mounted GPS's)
I finally figured it out (after reading the manual again - for the 10th
time!)
I had "jinked" the servo for the correct trim position. The Navaid's left
hand knob is used to trim the plane for level flight, the right hand knob is
used to make turns.
I repeat "left hand knob is used to trim the plane for level flight, the
right hand knob is used to make turns." If you are trying to fly straight
and level, DO NOT USE the right hand knob - use the trim knob!!! (This is a
duh-huh, but if you didn't understand this subtelty, it makes a huge
difference!)
When putting the Navaid in track mode - make sure the right hand knob is
straight up. The trim knob is in what ever position is required to maintain
straight ahead flight. Then after engaging track mode, use the trim knob to
put the plane on course if the Navaid is not tracking the course as desired.
This last sentence is critically important to getting good tracking
performance. I used to cuss the Navaid because it didn't seem to be holding
the correct track. If you use the trim knob to establish the plane on
track, it tracks PERFECTLY!!!!
A HAPPY NAVAID USER!
Ronnie Brown
Message 8
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| Subject: | Help me stop my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> For the last 2 months I have had a problem I can not figure out and
> wanted to see if anyone has a direction to point me. I have a
> 6 with a
> o-360 with the airflow performance fuel injection system. When I
> shutdown, the engine is dieseling really bad. I did not know the term
> dieseling but it basically means the engine will not shutdown
> fuel gets
> ignited somehow and keeps turning the engine over. I pull the mixture
> to idle cut off and then hit the electronic ignition and the mag and
> the master. I do all this with about 1000 rpm. Before this started
> happening I could shutdown any way I wanted with no problem. The only
> way to get the prop to stop spinning and vibrating the heck
> out of the
> airplane is to shove the mixture to full rich while
> everything else is
> off and the engine is just dieseling. Not only is this causing damage
> (exhaust breakage) it is dangerous. Tonight I cleaned (sand blasted)
> all the top plugs, this made no difference. Has anyone had this
> happen? What should I do next? I am suspect of the mixture
> control but
> last time I checked the control was hitting the stop. The
> only thing I
> did right before this happened was add avblend to the oil (I
> know that
> should have nothing to do with the problem). The oil has been changed
> since the avblend and I still have the problem.
>
> Any ideas to help my RV not come off as a clunker on the flight line?
>
Something is likely wrong with the idle mixture. The idle mixture
should be adjusted exactly per the AFP manual, it is spelled out in
great detail there. You are correct in wondering what has changed,
though. What happens if you run it at 1500 rpm, and pull the mixture
out?
Is the idle mixture linkage tight? Maybe it worked loose, and went
rich.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 443 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Help me stop my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Jason Sneed wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
>For the last 2 months I have had a problem I can not figure out and
>wanted to see if anyone has a direction to point me. I have a 6 with a
>o-360 with the airflow performance fuel injection system. When I
>shutdown, the engine is dieseling really bad. I did not know the term
>dieseling but it basically means the engine will not shutdown fuel gets
>ignited somehow and keeps turning the engine over. I pull the mixture
>to idle cut off and then hit the electronic ignition and the mag and
>the master. I do all this with about 1000 rpm. Before this started
>happening I could shutdown any way I wanted with no problem.
>
>Jason Sneed
>Commercial Lending Officer
>First National Bank and Trust
>http://www.highland-parks.com/n242ds/index.html
>
True "dieseling", as I understand it, is caused by at least by at least
one 'hotspot' in a combustion chamber. Sounds to me like something in
the combustion chamber is acting like a glowplug. Rid yourself of that
source and you may once again be a happy camper. I suggest reading the
spark plugs for abnormalities and for carbon buildup. Also, check the
the plugs for thin sharp edges while you're at it. Anybody got a
borescope?
Good luck.
Bob
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Carbon panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: "Ned Thomas" <315@cox.net>
>
>Dana,
>
>Can you give more details? Where to get the fabric and what to order, What
>to use for UV protection, eetc.
Ned, give me a couple weeks to work the process out and I'll post what I
figure out. I am having a blank 7 slider panel shipped from Van's today.
Myself, and another 7, will either make a mold for a solid carbon fiber
panel or use the layup technique as an overlaid layup for an existing panel.
The mold idea we are tossing around would include extended sides for the
use of various air vents and an extended center section to handle the engine
controls. I'll post the results. Looks inexpensive, trouble free and good
though!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Learn how to help protect your privacy and prevent fraud online at Tech
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Help me stop my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
Stein,
thanks very much for the information, everything I have read states the
purge valve is for startup also.
I have never been able to find my idle mixture adjustment and my next
door neighbor showed me what it looks like and where it is on his
engine. I'll try to get someone with more experience to try and locate
it for me. Today I did a little more testing and I am leaning toward
the mixture control still. I notice that if I pull the mixture control
back hard and when the control stops pull back even more with a lot of
pressure I get a normal shutdown. I have not done this enough to
conclude this is the problem but I am leaning in that direction. looks
like if you pull the mixture back there may be a VERY small space
between the stop with the added pulling you get rid of it and the
shutdown occurs. I am going to try to tighten the cable and talk to the
ANP that installed it.
so 2 more questions...
Does this sound like the culprit to you?
Do you think I should not fly until this problem is solved? Can
anything related to my issues damage the engine? I hope to work on the
mixture control today but may not have time and would like to goto the
Ocala fly in Sat.
Also, I have a 4 cylinder probe grands rapids EIS and throughout this
entire process I have noticed no abnormal EGT or CHT. One more piece
of information is that it seems around when this problem started I have
noticed the engine does not crank right up like it use to. I have to
hold the starter button a little longer. When the engine does crank it
seems to run pretty darn rough for about 5-7 seconds. I do not remember
this happening before the problem.
On Mar 5, 2004, at 2:03 AM, Stein Bruch wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> Oooops! I should have been more carefull about my rambling
> monologue!!!
>
> I should have stated my whole note was based more aimed at the RSA
> system.
>
> Realizing the RSA and AFP systems are very similar, but not identical.
>
> So....You've got to keep that in mind when reading my post...seems the
> AFP
> works a tad different in this area than the stock RSA systems, of
> which many
> never had/have a purge valve!!
>
> I should have remembered the 11th commandment..."Thou Shall not type
> long
> notes after midnight"!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein
>
> P.S., I'd still check the idle mixture adjustment!
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Help me stop my engine
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Jason, I want to reiterate what Terry said. Read the AFP manual and
> you'll
> see that they even state (I forget where, but it's in there), that
> pulling
> the mixture will still allow X fuel flow, and that the purge valve is
> the
> way they encourage shutdowns.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Help me stop my engine
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>>
>> Jason,
>>
>> I have heard that this is the biggest reason for installing the purge
> valve
>> with an Airflow Performance fuel injection system. For some reason
>> the
>> mixture apparently doesn't always shut the fuel off enough to stop the
>> engine. Pulling the purge valve diverts the fuel from the injectors
>> to
> the
>> return line and the engine quits.
>>
>> Note that this is not from my own experience. I am still at the
>> wiring
>> stage, but my Superior XP-IO-360-B1B came from Bart with the purge
>> valve
>> already installed. A call to Airflow Performance ought to get you an
>> authoritative answer.
>>
>> Terry
>> RV-8A #80729 wiring
>>
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>>
>> For the last 2 months I have had a problem I can not figure out and
>> wanted to see if anyone has a direction to point me. I have a 6 with a
>> o-360 with the airflow performance fuel injection system. When I
>> shutdown, the engine is dieseling really bad. I did not know the term
>> dieseling but it basically means the engine will not shutdown fuel
>> gets
>> ignited somehow and keeps turning the engine over. I pull the mixture
>> to idle cut off and then hit the electronic ignition and the mag and
>> the master.
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 12
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| Subject: | Help me stop my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> AFP recommends turning off the engine by activating the fuel
> bypass valve. Pulling the mixture all the way back still
> allows enough fuel to barely keep the engine running. I tried
> killing the engine this way once, it was painful.
This should not be - with AFP the engine should stop when at idle with
the mixture pulled completely to ICO. Their instructions are very clear
about how to adjust the idle mixture. If it doesn't quit when the
mixture is pulled at idle, you are probably idling way too rich.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 443 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: shut-down procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
This is what my airflow manual says to do but it does not work for me.
When the engine is dieseling I even tried going to full throttle and
it just keeps sputtering. Oddly enough if at the very end of shutdown
and when the engine just starts to diesel I go full rich on the mixture
the engine stops which makes NO sense to me.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions!
Jason
On Mar 5, 2004, at 8:19 AM, Mlfred@aol.com wrote:
> Hey Jason:
>
> I found a work-around for this run-on problem:
> When you pull the mix to ICO, push the throttle about 1/2 open and the
> thing will quit cleanly. Works every time for me...credit the old
> round engine guys for this one...
>
> Stein had some other very good comments.
>
> cheers
> Mark
> Team Rocket
>
> Any ideas to help my RV not come off as a clunker on the flight line?
>
>
> Jason Sneed
> Commercial Lending Officer
> First National Bank and Trust
> http://www.highland-parks.com/n242ds/index.html
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Help me stop my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
It may very well be that a purge valve is what I may need. But, I did
not have this problem for 300 hours so by adding a purge valve I would
have never figured out why I started having this problem. When I get
the engine back to running how it was I will look into adding the purge
valve. Thanks for the info....
On Mar 5, 2004, at 8:22 AM, Scott Bilinski wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> AFP recommends turning off the engine by activating the fuel bypass
> valve.
> Pulling the mixture all the way back still allows enough fuel to barely
> keep the engine running. I tried killing the engine this way once, it
> was
> painful.
>
>
> At 11:17 PM 3/4/04 -0500, you wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
>>
>> Lower your idle.
>> Jim
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds@cox.net>
>> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RV-List: Help me stop my engine
>>
>>
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>>>
>>> For the last 2 months I have had a problem I can not figure out and
>>> wanted to see if anyone has a direction to point me. I have a 6 with
>>> a
>>> o-360 with the airflow performance fuel injection system. When I
>>> shutdown, the engine is dieseling really bad. I did not know the term
>>> dieseling but it basically means the engine will not shutdown fuel
>>> gets
>>> ignited somehow and keeps turning the engine over. I pull the mixture
>>> to idle cut off and then hit the electronic ignition and the mag and
>>> the master. I do all this with about 1000 rpm. Before this started
>>> happening I could shutdown any way I wanted with no problem. The only
>>> way to get the prop to stop spinning and vibrating the heck out of
>>> the
>>> airplane is to shove the mixture to full rich while everything else
>>> is
>>> off and the engine is just dieseling. Not only is this causing damage
>>> (exhaust breakage) it is dangerous. Tonight I cleaned (sand blasted)
>>> all the top plugs, this made no difference. Has anyone had this
>>> happen? What should I do next? I am suspect of the mixture control
>>> but
>>> last time I checked the control was hitting the stop. The only thing
>>> I
>>> did right before this happened was add avblend to the oil (I know
>>> that
>>> should have nothing to do with the problem). The oil has been changed
>>> since the avblend and I still have the problem.
>>>
>>> Any ideas to help my RV not come off as a clunker on the flight line?
>>>
>>>
>>> Jason Sneed
>>> Commercial Lending Officer
>>> First National Bank and Trust
>>> http://www.highland-parks.com/n242ds/index.html
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
> do not archive
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 15
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| Subject: | Help me stop my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I will double check the manual but I and Dan (see previous post) remember
reading that the bypass valve is used to stop the engine. I have talked
with AFP several times over the last year and I asked them about this, they
told me that pulling the mixture all the way back will not stop fuel flow
100%. To stop the engine use the bypass valve.
At 08:48 AM 3/5/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>>
>> AFP recommends turning off the engine by activating the fuel
>> bypass valve. Pulling the mixture all the way back still
>> allows enough fuel to barely keep the engine running. I tried
>> killing the engine this way once, it was painful.
>
>This should not be - with AFP the engine should stop when at idle with
>the mixture pulled completely to ICO. Their instructions are very clear
>about how to adjust the idle mixture. If it doesn't quit when the
>mixture is pulled at idle, you are probably idling way too rich.
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN
>RV6-A N66AP 443 hours
>
>http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: shut-down procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Jason Sneed wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
>This is what my airflow manual says to do but it does not work for me.
>When the engine is dieseling I even tried going to full throttle and
>it just keeps sputtering. Oddly enough if at the very end of shutdown
>and when the engine just starts to diesel I go full rich on the mixture
>the engine stops which makes NO sense to me.
>
>Thanks for all the help and suggestions!
>
>Jason
>
==========================================
Makes sense to me, if you have a combustion chamber hot spot.
The raw fuel snuffs the hotspot, just like pouring water on a fire.
Pull your plugs.
See if you have a ton of soot.
If so, the engine has been running far too rich in some mode.
P.S.
If I'm wrong, never mind. <g>
Bob
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Help me stop my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>I have never been able to find my idle mixture adjustment and my next
>door neighbor showed me what it looks like and where it is on his
>engine. I'll try to get someone with more experience to try and locate
>it for me. Today I did a little more testing and I am leaning toward
>the mixture control still. I notice that if I pull the mixture control
>back hard and when the control stops pull back even more with a lot of
>pressure I get a normal shutdown. I have not done this enough to
>conclude this is the problem but I am leaning in that direction. looks
>like if you pull the mixture back there may be a VERY small space
>between the stop with the added pulling you get rid of it and the
>shutdown occurs. I am going to try to tighten the cable and talk to the
>ANP that installed it.
Just a heads up the mixture adjustment is VERY sensitive on the AFP, and I
think they call for a 25~50 RPM rise.
Do you have the manual? It sounds like you dont. Did the A&P keep the manual?
Do you have the bypass valve? If not, why not? I thought it came with the
system.
Do you have elect ign? If you do was the injection installed after the ign
was? If so the mixture will be very rich. My engine was initially run with
mags. Installed elect ign and had to lean it out 5 flats!!!! This is a huge
adjustment. Now at idle my fuel flow 1.6 GPH. Before leaning it was about 4
GPH.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Fwd: help me stop my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
Begin forwarded message:
> From: Mahlon_Russell@teledyne.com
> Date: March 5, 2004 9:06:44 AM CST
> To: n242ds@cox.net
> Subject: help me stop my engine
>
>
> Jason, I tried to post this to the list but I am not a member so it
> didn't
> go through..too bad I think it could be helpful to others. I monitor
> the
> list from the web and don't subscribe because I can't get any more
> email
> the I already get..just too much to deal with. so anyway I hope this
> helps
> you out! you might forward it to the list if you think it would help
> others.
> Jason,
> From the description of your situation I think you might have two
> problems.
> For what is happening to your engine, you need to have a fuel supply
> and a
> ignition supply. It can not run-on or diesel without ignition and
> fuel. So
> it sounds to me like you have 1.) an ignition source you shouldn't
> have and
> also 2.) a fuel source you shouldn't have. Two independent systems and
> two
> different troubleshooting scenarios.
> The way I would troubleshoot the problem is as follows:
> Lets look at the fuel situation first.
> The mixture control on the AFP fuel servo is not the Idle cut off
> device,
> if you have a purge valve. The idle cut off device is the purge/idle
> cutoff
> valve. To trouble shoot if it is working correctly, Place the mixture
> control valve in full lean and the purge/Idle cutoff valve in idle
> cutoff.
> Disconnect the fuel injection lines at the fuel nozzles. Turn the boost
> pump on and observe if there is fuel coming out any of the lines where
> you
> disconnected them from the nozzles. There should be no observable flow
> at
> the lines, an occasional drip is ok, but no flow allowed. If there is
> flow,
> you need to get the flow divider and purge/idle cutoff assembly
> checked out
> and or reworked. If there isn't any flow another way you can get fuel
> into
> the engine while you are trying to shut it off, is through a fuel
> injection
> nozzle that has a blocked air bleed or has a cracked line supplying it
> fuel. The nozzles are vented and when you close the Idle cut-off valve
> you
> put a stop to fuel flow. The natural sucking action of the intake
> system is
> exposed to the outlet of the fuel nozzles in each intake port. The
> vents in
> the nozzles relive that suction, and no fuel is drawn from the lines,
> into
> the intake ports, to keep the engine running. If one of the vents is
> restricted it will allow this suction to pull fuel out of the other
> lines
> and will keep the engine running. Likewise, a cracked line will allow
> the
> fuel to be drawn in, as it acts a relieve to the Idle cut-off valve.
> It's
> like putting a straw into a glass of soda. Put your finger on the end
> of
> the straw and you can lift the straw out of the soda and the soda will
> stay
> in the straw until you lift your finger and then the soda pours out of
> the
> straw. The crack in the line is acting like lifting your finger off
> the end
> of the straw. To check the nozzles for the clogged vent condition,
> remove
> them and blow into them with your mouth, while holding a finger over
> the
> outlet hole. You will then be blowing air into the nozzle and out the
> vent.
> If the vent is restricted or plugged you will be able to tell. To
> check for
> cracked line, do a visual inspection..common place for problems is
> where
> the ball end is silver soldered onto the line. Another place the
> engine
> can get fuel from is from an internal leak inside the servo. To check
> this
> remove the line that feeds the flow divider and plug it on the fuel
> servo
> side. Now turn the boost pump on for a minute or two. With the pump on
> observe the impact tubes( small tubes pointing into the air flow) at
> the
> mouth of the servo. They should not have fuel coming out of them. If
> they
> do you need to get the servo serviced as the servo is acting like a
> carburetor and supplying the fuel to keep the engine running. Lastly
> if you
> have the overboard drain from the engine driven fuel pump teed into the
> intake manifold drain, the fuel pump could be leaking and supplying
> fuel to
> the intake system though the drain network. If you have the fuel pump
> drain
> "teed in" disconnect from the drain network temporarily, and see if the
> engine shuts down OK. If it does, you need a new fuel pump. I assume
> that
> you don't have manual primmer system, if you do, disconnect it, to make
> sure it isn't the source of the fuel. Other than these things there is
> no
> other way, that I know of, for fuel to get into the engine, so I think
> it
> must be one of these that is supplying the fuel for the engine to be
> able
> to run on.
> Fixing the fuel situation will make the engine shut off but it won't
> fix
> problem 2.) which is how that fuel getting lit off with no ignition
> source?
> First thing we need to do is make sure the ignition systems are off
> when we
> think they are. To do this with the engine running, first turn off the
> electronic ignition system and master switch then momentarily turn the
> mag
> off. When doing this you need to be quick, on the mag switch, as
> letting
> the engine run down for more that a second or so with the ignition
> turned
> off and than turning the ignition back on, can light off un-burnt fuel
> that
> has collected in the exhaust system and cause a rather loud backfire,
> as
> well as, possible exhaust system damage. The engine should quit if we
> are
> killing the ignition. If it doesn't we need to figure out which system
> is
> still on. To do this, I would disconnect the sparkplug leads for the
> electronic system, start the engine on the mag, and then shut off the
> mag,
> if the engine continues to run, you have mag or mag switch issues, if
> it
> doesn't, I would reverse the situation and start on the electronic
> system
> and then shut it off. If the engine doesn't quit, you have electronic
> ignition or wiring issues with it. Either of these situations are bad
> as we
> have a engine that can inadvertently start with prop movement, because
> one
> of the ignition systems is actually on, when we think it is off. Be
> very
> careful moving the prop on this engine, until you are sure that that
> is a
> safe practice!! If the engine does not quit, using either trouble
> shooting
> scenario, then we have a hot spot in the cylinders, that is acting
> like a
> glow plug, that was igniting the fuel, This is a bad thing that can
> have
> some potential catastrophic results for the engine, as it can cause
> pre-ignition and eventually detonation. There is no easy way to
> troubleshoot this but it is normally caused by an ignition system that
> is
> out of whack and not timed correctly or some really bad quality fuel.
> If
> you ran the engine using only one of the ignition systems, the
> offending
> one should be able to be discovered, in that the engine shouldn't
> develop
> the hot spot if the bad ignition source hasn't been turned on and used.
> Therefore after a run with only one ignition system used and if it
> shuts
> down OK it should point the finger at the other system. That or a
> complete
> ignition systems tune up is in order. If you are using av-gas fuel
> shouldn't be an issue. If you are using MoGas try some av-gas for a
> while.
> If you remove the fuel source and the ignition source you will have a
> correctly configured system and an engine that will shut down. If you
> only
> fix the fuel system or the offending ignition system you will have an
> engine that will shut down but still isn't configured the way it
> should be.
> If it's the fuel that's an issue you are lucky that the only problem
> you
> have is it won't shut off!
> Hope this helps.
> Good Luck,
> Mahlon
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Help me stop my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
> Sputters if I shutdown at 600 rpm or 1300 rpm. Top plugs were pretty
> clean, have not had time to pull the bottom yet. I have been told the
> electronic ignition plugs are usually cleaner but I do not know that
> from experience.
>
> Thanks!
On Mar 5, 2004, at 8:48 AM, Alex Peterson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>>
>> AFP recommends turning off the engine by activating the fuel
>> bypass valve. Pulling the mixture all the way back still
>> allows enough fuel to barely keep the engine running. I tried
>> killing the engine this way once, it was painful.
>
> This should not be - with AFP the engine should stop when at idle with
> the mixture pulled completely to ICO. Their instructions are very
> clear
> about how to adjust the idle mixture. If it doesn't quit when the
> mixture is pulled at idle, you are probably idling way too rich.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 443 hours
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Carbon panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Carbon panels are well within the range of anyone who has the fortitude to
build the plane. Dana is correct that many of the commercially available
panels are expensive but they are beautifully done with beveled instrument
holes, deep finish and perfect fit.
To do this at home to simulate the commercial versions a vacuum bagging
system would be necessary. Vacuum bagging will provide an even surface,
lighter product because less epoxy is needed and the deep finish.
I've had experience vacuum bagging model airplane sailplane wings with
carbon and glass where strength and weight is an issue. In the case of
making a decorative panel cover for our panel strength is not an issue but
we obviously want to keep it light.
I would simply use a layer of 6 oz glass then a layer of 5.9 oz carbon fiber
cloth. The carbon is there to give the look the glass is there to save you
money. You could do this as a flat panel then cut it to the instrument panel
or you could use the panel as your plate.
Carbon and glass is available from www.CSTsales.com This is where I buy
supplies for my model lay-ups. They also have vacuum bagging video.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Carbon panel
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> After seeing the carbon look alike panel at the fly-in last Saturday, my
> interest was sparked, to say the least. After looking around, talking
> around and phoning around.......I found the carbon panels on the market
> today were just way too expensive. I reverted to my plastic airplane
days,
> grabbed a pane of glass, some carbon fiber, piece of rolled plastic, car
wax
> and West System. I laid this up in about 20 minutes and popped it off the
> glass later on in the day. I'll end up my clear coated, UV protected real
> carbon fiber panel for next to nothing. This is just a test piece to
> determine the number of layups to get the thickness I want. This is three
> layers and measures right at 038.
>
> Certainly not for everyone and for sure do not archive this totally
useless
> post:-)
>
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/carbonpanel.jpg
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
> do not archive
>
> One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page download MSN Toolbar now!
> http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Help me stop my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
Yes I have the manual but maybe it is old the amount of info in it is
minimal. The system was installed in 97 and has 300 hours on it. Bypass
valve did not come with it. Yes I have a jeff rose EI on the bottom
plugs. As far as I know the EI and FI was installed at the same time.
At idle my fuel flow is about 1.4 according to the flow scan and analog
fuel flow gauge.
On Mar 5, 2004, at 9:23 AM, Scott Bilinski wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>
>> I have never been able to find my idle mixture adjustment and my next
>> door neighbor showed me what it looks like and where it is on his
>> engine. I'll try to get someone with more experience to try and locate
>> it for me. Today I did a little more testing and I am leaning toward
>> the mixture control still. I notice that if I pull the mixture control
>> back hard and when the control stops pull back even more with a lot of
>> pressure I get a normal shutdown. I have not done this enough to
>> conclude this is the problem but I am leaning in that direction. looks
>> like if you pull the mixture back there may be a VERY small space
>> between the stop with the added pulling you get rid of it and the
>> shutdown occurs. I am going to try to tighten the cable and talk to
>> the
>> ANP that installed it.
>
> Just a heads up the mixture adjustment is VERY sensitive on the AFP,
> and I
> think they call for a 25~50 RPM rise.
>
> Do you have the manual? It sounds like you dont. Did the A&P keep the
> manual?
>
> Do you have the bypass valve? If not, why not? I thought it came with
> the
> system.
>
> Do you have elect ign? If you do was the injection installed after the
> ign
> was? If so the mixture will be very rich. My engine was initially run
> with
> mags. Installed elect ign and had to lean it out 5 flats!!!! This is a
> huge
> adjustment. Now at idle my fuel flow 1.6 GPH. Before leaning it was
> about 4
> GPH.
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
> do not archive
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Help me stop my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
John,
Call airflow performance. They are very familiar with this problem and as I
understand it, it is the biggest weakness in the AFP system.
Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7
>From: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Help me stop my engine
>Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 21:58:34 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
>For the last 2 months I have had a problem I can not figure out and
>wanted to see if anyone has a direction to point me. I have a 6 with a
>o-360 with the airflow performance fuel injection system. When I
>shutdown, the engine is dieseling really bad. I did not know the term
>dieseling but it basically means the engine will not shutdown fuel gets
>ignited somehow and keeps turning the engine over. I pull the mixture
>to idle cut off and then hit the electronic ignition and the mag and
>the master. I do all this with about 1000 rpm. Before this started
>happening I could shutdown any way I wanted with no problem. The only
>way to get the prop to stop spinning and vibrating the heck out of the
>airplane is to shove the mixture to full rich while everything else is
>off and the engine is just dieseling. Not only is this causing damage
>(exhaust breakage) it is dangerous. Tonight I cleaned (sand blasted)
>all the top plugs, this made no difference. Has anyone had this
>happen? What should I do next? I am suspect of the mixture control but
>last time I checked the control was hitting the stop. The only thing I
>did right before this happened was add avblend to the oil (I know that
>should have nothing to do with the problem). The oil has been changed
>since the avblend and I still have the problem.
>
>Any ideas to help my RV not come off as a clunker on the flight line?
>
>
>Jason Sneed
>Commercial Lending Officer
>First National Bank and Trust
>http://www.highland-parks.com/n242ds/index.html
>
>
Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from bCentral.
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: shut-down procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Jason,
Don't want beat a dead horse here but the purge valve WILL solve both
the shut down hot start problems. I put up with difficult starting and
stopping for 2 years before I installed one and I wouldn't even consider
not having one on an AFP system.
Dave
Jason Sneed wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
>This is what my airflow manual says to do but it does not work for me.
>When the engine is dieseling I even tried going to full throttle and
>it just keeps sputtering. Oddly enough if at the very end of shutdown
>and when the engine just starts to diesel I go full rich on the mixture
>the engine stops which makes NO sense to me.
>
>Thanks for all the help and suggestions!
>
>Jason
>
>
>On Mar 5, 2004, at 8:19 AM, Mlfred@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>Hey Jason:
>>
>>I found a work-around for this run-on problem:
>>When you pull the mix to ICO, push the throttle about 1/2 open and the
>>thing will quit cleanly. Works every time for me...credit the old
>>round engine guys for this one...
>>
>>Stein had some other very good comments.
>>
>>cheers
>>Mark
>>Team Rocket
>>
>>Any ideas to help my RV not come off as a clunker on the flight line?
>>
>>
>>Jason Sneed
>>Commercial Lending Officer
>>First National Bank and Trust
>>http://www.highland-parks.com/n242ds/index.html
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Jason Sneed
>Commercial Lending Officer
>First National Bank and Trust
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Carbon panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Another great source with very good prices.........at least when I last
bought from them 2 years ago.....
http://johnrsweet.com/
At 08:29 AM 3/5/04 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
>Carbon panels are well within the range of anyone who has the fortitude to
>build the plane. Dana is correct that many of the commercially available
>panels are expensive but they are beautifully done with beveled instrument
>holes, deep finish and perfect fit.
>
>To do this at home to simulate the commercial versions a vacuum bagging
>system would be necessary. Vacuum bagging will provide an even surface,
>lighter product because less epoxy is needed and the deep finish.
>
>I've had experience vacuum bagging model airplane sailplane wings with
>carbon and glass where strength and weight is an issue. In the case of
>making a decorative panel cover for our panel strength is not an issue but
>we obviously want to keep it light.
>
>I would simply use a layer of 6 oz glass then a layer of 5.9 oz carbon fiber
>cloth. The carbon is there to give the look the glass is there to save you
>money. You could do this as a flat panel then cut it to the instrument panel
>or you could use the panel as your plate.
>
>Carbon and glass is available from www.CSTsales.com This is where I buy
>supplies for my model lay-ups. They also have vacuum bagging video.
>
>Darwin N. Barrie
>Chandler AZ
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Carbon panel
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>>
>> After seeing the carbon look alike panel at the fly-in last Saturday, my
>> interest was sparked, to say the least. After looking around, talking
>> around and phoning around.......I found the carbon panels on the market
>> today were just way too expensive. I reverted to my plastic airplane
>days,
>> grabbed a pane of glass, some carbon fiber, piece of rolled plastic, car
>wax
>> and West System. I laid this up in about 20 minutes and popped it off the
>> glass later on in the day. I'll end up my clear coated, UV protected real
>> carbon fiber panel for next to nothing. This is just a test piece to
>> determine the number of layups to get the thickness I want. This is three
>> layers and measures right at 038.
>>
>> Certainly not for everyone and for sure do not archive this totally
>useless
>> post:-)
>>
>> http://rvflying.tripod.com/carbonpanel.jpg
>>
>>
>> Dana Overall
>> Richmond, KY i39
>> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>> Finish kit
>> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
>> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
>> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
>> do not archive
>>
>> One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page download MSN Toolbar now!
>> http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Carbon panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Carbon and glass is available from www.CSTsales.com This is where I buy
> supplies for my model lay-ups. They also have vacuum bagging video.
FYI, Spruce sells carbon for half the price of CST.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/bigraphite.php
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Alternators - Reliability, Preventive Replacement |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Now we're getting into a topic that interests me. Alternator reliability
and preventive replacement.
Knowing I can purchase an alternator for $38 to $18 is good. What I don't
know is what's the typical lifespan for these pieces of equipment when used
in an aircraft and turning faster than typical automotive applications.
As far as a failure mode, I worry about shaft bearings. They're a pretty
high rpm component, with questionable sealed lubrication and questionable
cooling (got external cooling, but who knows just how adequate it really
is).
Even though it has almost 4 yrs and 600 hrs of trouble free operation, I'm
considering replacing mine on a *preventive* basis
Spending $40 now to replace a 75% "used" alternator is much better than the
thing locking up, burning up the drive belt and possibly damaging something
nearby. Not to mention the pain in the a## of it happening away from home
and either having to fix it or fly home on battery alone.
Any thoughts on preventive replacement? Who's had Van's alternator
failures? Why did it fail? How many hours was it used? Did you have
cooling?
Lots of questions, but even a few answered will help us all (me!) make
better decisions.
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
>One person's experiences with an alternator is not a definitive study.
>What
>ever experience that person has is 100% for him and him alone. It may or
>may
>not be a generalized condition. It may be that one case in 1000s that
>sometimes happens. If it is a failure then every thing is o.k. but if it
>is
>the one case of success, then we have big problems. Reiterating one's
>opinion doesn't change the overall failure rate. Remember most of us are
>Amateur Builders. Of course, we have strong opinions, but they aren't
>necessarily the silent majorities nor statistically significant. They can
>be
>used for guidance.
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Carbon panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
>I would simply use a layer of 6 oz glass then a layer of 5.9 oz carbon fiber
>cloth. The carbon is there to give the look the glass is there to save you
>money. You could do this as a flat panel then cut it to the instrument panel
>or you could use the panel as your plate.
>
>Carbon and glass is available from www.CSTsales.com This is where I buy
>supplies for my model lay-ups. They also have vacuum bagging video.
I like these folks. They are very helpful and also have some nifty
"how-to" videos. http://www.fibreglast.com/
They are a bit pricey, however.
I would suggest that you do the lay-up with a combination of
carbon fiber and Kevlar. The carbon fiber has poor impact resistance and
cracks rather easily. Backing the carbon layer(s) with a Kevlar layer
greatly enhances the impact resistance and arrests cracks even before they
become apparent.
Where you can afford the thickness, it would be wise to add a thin
sheet of foam, balsa, or honeycomb into the lay-up. 1/4" or 1/8" of any of
these materials in the middle of the lay-up is all it will take. This will
make the panel MUCH stronger.
You could use a glass plate for a form, but I much prefer Formica.
With just a little wax, it releases very easily and leaves a very nice
surface finish. You can also drill it, cut it, glue it, and bend it into
simple curved shapes. Drilling and gluing allow you to easily secure mold
"plugs" for instrument recesses, switch recesses, vents, etc. You can also
drill a hole or two, (then carefully fill with bee's wax,) so you can blow
the part loose with compressed air when it has cured.
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Carbon panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
You're right ACS is cheaper.
Darwin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Carbon panel
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > Carbon and glass is available from www.CSTsales.com This is where I buy
> > supplies for my model lay-ups. They also have vacuum bagging video.
>
> FYI, Spruce sells carbon for half the price of CST.
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/bigraphite.php
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 29
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Warren" <kevin.m.warren@vanderbilt.edu>
Has anyone read any NTSB reports of RVs doing an endo (flipping upside-down)
in rough field landing or the like? I was trying to envision an emergency
egress strategy in the event such a thing happened, especially if fuel were
leaking.
Thanks,
Kevin
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Warren" <kevin.m.warren@vanderbilt.edu>
Has anyone read any NTSB reports of RVs flipping upside-down in rough field
landing or the like? I was trying to envision an emergency egress strategy
in the event such a thing happened, especially if fuel were leaking.
Thanks,
Kevin
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Safety Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
On Fri, 5 Mar 2004, Kevin Warren wrote:
> Has anyone read any NTSB reports of RVs doing an endo (flipping upside-down)
Kevin:
Yes, there have been accidents like that. Many RVers carry military-style
canopy breakout knives. There's lots of discussion in the archives about that.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Safety Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Actually its quite common it end up inverted. Yes you need something to
break the canopy.
At 11:04 AM 3/5/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Warren" <kevin.m.warren@vanderbilt.edu>
>
>
>Has anyone read any NTSB reports of RVs flipping upside-down in rough field
>landing or the like? I was trying to envision an emergency egress strategy
>in the event such a thing happened, especially if fuel were leaking.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Kevin
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Carbon panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
I would not recommend Kevlar for this application because at some point you
are going to have to sand the edges to conform to the panel. Kevlar will
"fuzz" with no method to recover.
Good points on sandwiching things for added depth.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Carbon panel
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
>
> >
> >I would simply use a layer of 6 oz glass then a layer of 5.9 oz carbon
fiber
> >cloth. The carbon is there to give the look the glass is there to save
you
> >money. You could do this as a flat panel then cut it to the instrument
panel
> >or you could use the panel as your plate.
> >
> >Carbon and glass is available from www.CSTsales.com This is where I buy
> >supplies for my model lay-ups. They also have vacuum bagging video.
>
> I like these folks. They are very helpful and also have some
nifty
> "how-to" videos. http://www.fibreglast.com/
>
> They are a bit pricey, however.
>
> I would suggest that you do the lay-up with a combination of
> carbon fiber and Kevlar. The carbon fiber has poor impact resistance and
> cracks rather easily. Backing the carbon layer(s) with a Kevlar layer
> greatly enhances the impact resistance and arrests cracks even before they
> become apparent.
>
> Where you can afford the thickness, it would be wise to add a
thin
> sheet of foam, balsa, or honeycomb into the lay-up. 1/4" or 1/8" of any of
> these materials in the middle of the lay-up is all it will take. This will
> make the panel MUCH stronger.
>
> You could use a glass plate for a form, but I much prefer
Formica.
> With just a little wax, it releases very easily and leaves a very nice
> surface finish. You can also drill it, cut it, glue it, and bend it into
> simple curved shapes. Drilling and gluing allow you to easily secure mold
> "plugs" for instrument recesses, switch recesses, vents, etc. You can also
> drill a hole or two, (then carefully fill with bee's wax,) so you can blow
> the part loose with compressed air when it has cured.
>
>
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Carbon panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steve Eberhart <steve@newtech.com>
Bill Dube wrote:
> I would suggest that you do the lay-up with a combination of
> carbon fiber and Kevlar. The carbon fiber has poor impact resistance and
> cracks rather easily. Backing the carbon layer(s) with a Kevlar layer
> greatly enhances the impact resistance and arrests cracks even before they
> become apparent.
Dana and I are still in the development stage on the carbon fiber panel
so the jury is still out - but we have a pretty good idea of where we
are going to end up. We are more interrested in having the look of a
carbon fiber panel than we are in the structural and/or weight
advantages. We decided early on that Kevlar probably wasn't going to be
in the final solution. More because it is simply a pain to work with
than anything else. I just don't know how to make all of the instrument
cut outs, holes and trim the final edges. Kevlar is so tough that it
resists cutting. On an instrument panel, you would have little
"frizzies" where ever you had to cut through it. And, you can't sand
them away, they just get worse the more you try to sand them.
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Carbon panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
For those who have not worked with Kevlar.....my opinion of it is it is too
hard to work with, too hard to cut and the edges are totally unacceptable in
our applications. Formica, sure you can but I wanted a gloss finish and get
much better results from plate glass. You can get different finishes with
formica. In the picture posted, I used three layers of 5.7 set at 90,45 &
90. On a full carbon panel, I'm thinking some carbon fiber angles made by
laying up on a 3/4 x 3/4 piece of angle alum as reinforcement instead of
using foam as panel space pretty well uses up available area. All good
ideas but may not be very practical for a panel, we'll see.
Just to bond a sheet onto an existing panel, just have at least two layers
to make sure you don't see the alum through the layup, scuff the panel and
"stick" the cured layup on.
I think when we get done playing with this mold thing though, you might be
pleasently surprised:-)
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Frustrated with dial-up? Lightning-fast Internet access for as low as
Message 36
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| Subject: | Cylinder Blocker |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
One thing I'm planning to do during this year's condition inspection is add a cylinder
blocker in front of the #1 cylinder, which (hopefully) will reduce the
40 or so degree CHT difference between #3 and the rest of the cylinders. There
is plenty in the archives on the effectiveness of this technique, but I can't
find a picture or any specifics on how tall to make the blocker in front of
the head vs in front of the barrel of the cylinder.
I'd sure appreciate some dimensions and/or a picture to use as a go-by or at least
to give me a good starting point.
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Carbon panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steve Eberhart <steve@newtech.com>
I coundn't do that again if I tried. Just imagine a cup of coffee on
the desk, notebook computer in your lap and the phone rings. When the
incident was all through playing out, the coffee was covering the desk,
phone was in hand and the unfinished e-mail reply was sent. Oh well.
Here is how I was going to finish my last post:
Bill Dube wrote:
>
> I would suggest that you do the lay-up with a combination of
> carbon fiber and Kevlar. The carbon fiber has poor impact resistance and
> cracks rather easily. Backing the carbon layer(s) with a Kevlar layer
> greatly enhances the impact resistance and arrests cracks even before they
> become apparent.
>
> Where you can afford the thickness, it would be wise to add a thin
> sheet of foam, balsa, or honeycomb into the lay-up. 1/4" or 1/8" of any of
> these materials in the middle of the lay-up is all it will take. This will
> make the panel MUCH stronger
Dana and I are still in the development stage on the carbon fiber panel
so the jury is still out - but we have a pretty good idea of where we
are going to end up. We are more interrested in having the look of a
carbon fiber panel than we are in the structural and/or weight
advantages we might gain from the composites. We decided early on that
Kevlar probably wasn't going to be in the final solution. More because
it is simply a pain to work with than anything else. I just don't know
how to make all of the instrument cut outs, holes and trim the final
edges. Kevlar is so tough that it resists cutting. On an instrument
panel, you would have little "frizzies" where ever you had to cut
through it. And, you can't sand them away, they just get worse the more
you try to sand them.
I do like the idea of using the Rutan sandwich construction techniques
to strengthen the panel. We will probably do that around the radio
stack but not anywhere else. The main reason is, we are going to use
this panel on three RV-7's that are under construction. As is usually
the case, no two panels are alike. Making all of the panels the same,
without the internal core material, we can make instrument cutouts where
ever we want.
I have had good experiences buying carbon from
http://www.discountcomposite.com/ infact, this is where the carbon we
are using came from.
Stay tuned. As in every development project, everything is subject to
change :-)
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - still working on wings and now the panel as well
Message 38
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| Subject: | Cylinder Blocker |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Kyle,
I have the "poor mans" cylinder blocker. I've been using a piece of
Stainless Steel tape, trimmed to about 1" high stuck to the front cylinder
and ramps.
It took me about 5 hours to get just the right height to even out the CHT
temps, but now I've gotten them all within 5 degrees of each other in normal
flying. Most of the time, they are within 2-3 degrees, and I don't think
you can get any better than that!
Now that I have the size determined, I'm going to fabricate some .020"
blockers out of AL, and just rivet them to the lower ramps.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Subject: RV-List: Cylinder Blocker
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
One thing I'm planning to do during this year's condition inspection is add
a cylinder blocker in front of the #1 cylinder, which (hopefully) will
reduce the 40 or so degree CHT difference between #3 and the rest of the
cylinders. There is plenty in the archives on the effectiveness of this
technique, but I can't find a picture or any specifics on how tall to make
the blocker in front of the head vs in front of the barrel of the cylinder.
I'd sure appreciate some dimensions and/or a picture to use as a go-by or at
least to give me a good starting point.
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
Message 39
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| Subject: | TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
Trutrak has their new autopilot with the turn coordinator out called the Pictorial
Pilot. They also have a turn coordinator only instrument. Both use a solid
state gyro. I saw it in Sport Avaiation, but they haven't updated the website
yet. They told me it would be updated shortly.
Someone needs to buy one of these and test it so I know if I want one. Ha!
Seriously, it would be great if someone could take a look at Sun 'n Fun and give
us a report.
Thanks.
Ken
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 40
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| Subject: | Cylinder Blocker |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>I'm going to fabricate some .020"
>blockers out of AL, and just rivet them to the lower ramps.
Exactly what I did. I had a 30 degree difference with cyl 1 being the
lowest. Put a 1 inch hi wall in front of the fins on cyl #1 and now in
normal cruise my temps are all same at 335 +- 1 on all cylinders. I never
though getting cyl temps that close was possible.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
do not archive
Message 41
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Warren" <kevin.m.warren@vanderbilt.edu>
I've seen pictures of various tools kept in the cockpit for breaking the
plexi - The question should have been more specific and I guess it's pretty
much been answered... is there enough room to squeeze out? It appears that
for the average person at least, there is.
Thanks!
Kevin
Message 42
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| Subject: | Exhaust Bracket Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bluecavu@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Exhaust Bracket Failure
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Looks like the exhaust hanging hardware on my airplane needs to be changed
every 100 hours or so.=A0
sounds like you might have a problem with vibration. until you get it solved,
you will continually be replacing stuff like this. investing in a dynamic
balance might be easily worth it -not to mention the increased comfort.
-scott
Message 43
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| Subject: | iPAQ Pilot Log... |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Anyone know of a good, free, pilot logbook for the iPAQ?
-Bill
do not archive
Message 44
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| Subject: | iPAQ Pilot Log... |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Anyone know of a good, free, pilot logbook for the iPAQ?
-Bill
do not archive
Message 45
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vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Can anyone suggest a good wax, or other protestant to apply to a wood prop?
-Bill
do not archive
Message 46
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vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Can anyone suggest a good wax, or other protestant to apply to a wood prop?
-Bill
do not archive
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Wood Prop... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Why not a catholic? Sorry.
In a message dated 3/5/04 5:05:30 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
bill@vondane.com writes:
>
> Can anyone suggest a good wax, or other protestant to apply to a wood prop?
>
> -Bill
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: iPAQ Pilot Log... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Bill VonDane wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
> Anyone know of a good, free, pilot logbook for the iPAQ?
By far the most flexible, is Pocket Excel, which comes with the iPaq.
Set up whatever columns you want, and track them.
I looked for ages for a better (and free) program, and never found one.
There's one that's quite good called DS Pilot Log, it was the best of
the dedicated programs that I could find, and it was reasonably
economical ($20, I think). It looks like the interface has changed
since I last used it, it's up to version 2.0 now.
But i've since switched back to Palm, the iPaq's inability to interface
with anything but a Windows PC started to become an issue (I run Linux
at home). My Tungsten T3 is smaller, lighter, faster, and syncs to all
of my computers.
-Rob
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Wood Prop... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
In a message dated 3/5/04 5:05:30 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
bill@vondane.com writes:
>Can anyone suggest a good wax, or other protestant to apply to a wood prop?
>
>-Bill
>do not archive
>
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>Why not a catholic? Sorry.
>
======================================
Show some respect.
Please use a capital "C". <g>
Bob
Do not archive.
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: alternator cooling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: alternator cooling
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
<lhelming@sigecom.net>
> >
> > With using a blast air tube for cooling the alternator, is there any
> concern
> > about flying into rain and having rain water coming through the tube
onto
> > the back of the alternator?
> >
> > Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
JeffRose
> > Firewall Forward
>
Just a comment on alternators. I too had problems with Van's Honda
alternator in my previously RV-4. Bought another from Vans. The new owner
just reported to me that it has conked out again.
I installed a B&C 40 amp alternator in my new RV-4. B&C tells me they have
sold thousands and almost no reported failures. They are a well engineered
unit as you all know. Not cheap, but reliable.
Then the question arises, how come, after 10 years of use, the alternator in
my 1993 Saturn finally failed. 120,000 plus miles which I figured
translated to over 3000 hours of use. Now that's reliability!!
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
Message 51
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vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Damn spell checkers!
I guess "protectant" is not a work, or at least not one to Bill Gates...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wood Prop...
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Why not a catholic? Sorry.
In a message dated 3/5/04 5:05:30 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
bill@vondane.com writes:
>
> Can anyone suggest a good wax, or other protestant to apply to a wood
prop?
>
> -Bill
> do not archive
>
>
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wood Prop... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
I didn't think Catholics were permitted to use protectants. 8-P
-Rob
Do not archive.
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> Why not a catholic? Sorry.
>
>
> In a message dated 3/5/04 5:05:30 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> bill@vondane.com writes:
>
>
>>Can anyone suggest a good wax, or other protestant to apply to a wood prop?
>>
>>-Bill
>>do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: alternator cooling |
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
Sounds like the Bronco II I got rid of last year. Had
it for 14 years, 309,000 miles (no typos there). It
was still running on the original engine build AND
alternator when I donated it!!!
--- Doug Weiler <dougweil@pressenter.com> wrote:
> Then the question arises, how come, after 10 years
> of use, the alternator in
> my 1993 Saturn finally failed. 120,000 plus miles
> which I figured
> translated to over 3000 hours of use. Now that's
> reliability!!
>
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 54
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| Subject: | Exhaust Bracket Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
Call Vetterman at 605 745 5932.
He has a "new" exhaust mounting kit that works. I got it from him for $10. No problems
for 105 hours.
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 105 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: alternator maintenance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
After 100 K to 150 K miles (1000 hours? given the higher RPM) its pretty
normal for alternator brushes to wear out. They can be replaced for about $5 or
$6. Its a good investment in preventative maintenance if you have gotten this
far with the alternator. Let it go too long and the slip rings will get
ruined. Alternators are very easy to work on. Mark the case so you can get it
back the same way, not 90 or 120 or 180 degrees out. Most have a hole where you
load and hold the brushes with a plastic or wooden stick -- the new brushes
sometimes come with the stick. Pull it out after you put the case halves back
together.
Dan RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 3/5/04 6:33:00 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
skylor4@yahoo.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Sounds like the Bronco II I got rid of last year. Had
> it for 14 years, 309,000 miles (no typos there). It
> was still running on the original engine build AND
> alternator when I donated it!!!
>
>
> --- Doug Weiler <dougweil@pressenter.com> wrote:
>
> >Then the question arises, how come, after 10 years
> >of use, the alternator in
> >my 1993 Saturn finally failed. 120,000 plus miles
> >which I figured
> >translated to over 3000 hours of use. Now that's
> >reliability!!
> >
> >Doug Weiler
> >Hudson, WI
> >
>
Message 56
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| Subject: | alternator notes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Without the battery any changing load device will cause the VR to have a
hard time keeping the V stable since a sudden change in load will not be
compensated for by the battery at the speed of light and electrons coming
out of it. It takes time for the VR to wind up the field's magnetism which
is much slower to react. The battery also provides a large stable "sense"
reservoir for the VR to sense and adjust its output as needed.
by the by, a few technical additions to the below, a DC generator "field" is
actually AC, the commutator causes this, but the armature sees it as DC
since the phase of the armature and field are aligned for that to happen.
Although alternators are "schematically" phased 120degs they are actually
wound to have a bunch of three phase events per actual "pulley" revolution.
(this is what destroys most student's brains when trying to understand my
alternator lessons) But because diodes need a small amount of voltage to
switch they don't completely get rid of the AC on top of the DC.
Most diode rectifiers have a 4th bridge pair that I think is used to compare
V for the internal regulator so it knows when a failure is occuring in a
main diode. This is how it knows when to activate the idiot light. But I've
never proven this. But I mention it so you don't get worried if you see
eight diodes when you are looking for six in the rectifier plate.
RE Vans units. I have seen/repaired about ten of these units now, and none
of them are the same in regards to their delivered condition. The last one I
saw was not rebuilt by any stretch of the imagination, and Vans didn't
question paying the bill for it to be fixed properly. It needed a new
regulator, a rectifier and a good bath. So the variety of failures you folks
have discribed (many years to 35 hours) is no surprise.
RE cooling, the denso's cool from either end as the inlets and then out the
side outlets. If you want to blast them, blast the back where the rectifier
plate is, but blast into the end port, not into one of the side ports. They
are mostly rain proof. The only place where water could cause a problem is
on the field brushes, and these are ususally somewhat well covered. I
wouldn't try driving one underwater though, regardless of the results
produced by Mr. Denver's experiments.
Even if the brushes do get wet the field only sees an amp or so at most.
W
Time: 09:29:31 AM PST US
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@QCBC.ORG>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's alternator - $18 at Pep boys
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
How can you get the battery out of the circuit? It must be there for no
other reason
than to excite the field.
STATOR
Surrounding the rotor is another set of coils, three in number, called the
stator.
The stator is fixed to the shell of the alternator, and does not turn. As
the rotor turns within the stator windings, the magnetic field of the rotor
sweeps
through the stator windings, producing an electrical current in the
windings.
Because of the rotation of the rotor, an alternating current is produced.
As, for example, the north pole of the magnetic field approaches one of the
stator
windings, there is little coupling taking place, and a weak current is
produced,
As the rotation continues, the magnetic field moves to the center of
the winding, where maximum coupling takes place, and the induced current is
at
its peak. As the rotation continues to the point that the magnetic field is
leaving
the stator winding, the induced current is small. By this time, the south
pole is approaching the winding, producing a weak current in the opposite
direction.
As this continues, the current produced in each winding plotted against
the angle of rotation of the rotor has the form shown in figure 2. The three
stator windings are spaced inside the alternator 120 degrees apart,
producing
three separate sets, or "phases," of output voltages, spaced 120 degrees
apart,
as shown in figure 3.
OUTPUT DIODES
A/C voltage is of little use in a D/C system, such as used in an airplane,
so it
has to be converted to D/C before it can be used. This conversion to D/C
takes
place in the "output diodes" and in the "diode trio." Diodes have the
property
of allowing current to flow in only one direction, while blocking current
flow in the other direction. The output diodes consist of six diodes, one
pair
for each winding. One of the pair is for the negative half cycle, and the
other
for the positive half cycle. As a result of this diode rectification, the
output
of the alternator looks as shown in figure 4.
Surprisingly enough, the output of the alternator is not a pure D/C as one
might
expect, but a pulsating D/C. Because there are three windings, each with a
positive
and a negative half, by the time the voltage is passed through the diodes,
there are six pulsations for each rotation of the rotor. This is close
enough
to D/C for most automotive components. Critical components, such as radios,
have their own internal filtering circuits to further smooth out the
waveform
to a purer D/C.
This doesn't look like your quoted 99% to me.
Message 57
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Blocker |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Kyle,
I also had about a 40 degree difference between cylinders 1 & 3 and fixed it
with the blocker as you describe.
Here is a picture for reference.
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=134196&ck
You can start with speed tape or something similar until you get the right
size, but the size shown will get you pretty close.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cylinder Blocker
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
> One thing I'm planning to do during this year's condition inspection is
add a cylinder blocker in front of the #1 cylinder, which (hopefully) will
reduce the 40 or so degree CHT difference between #3 and the rest of the
cylinders. There is plenty in the archives on the effectiveness of this
technique, but I can't find a picture or any specifics on how tall to make
the blocker in front of the head vs in front of the barrel of the cylinder.
>
> I'd sure appreciate some dimensions and/or a picture to use as a go-by or
at least to give me a good starting point.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
>
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: Carbon panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 10:56 AM 3/5/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
>I would not recommend Kevlar for this application because at some point you
>are going to have to sand the edges to conform to the panel. Kevlar will
>"fuzz" with no method to recover.
Indeed, you will get fuzz at the edges. It is possible to trim any
exposed edges with rubber molding, etc.
Message 59
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| Subject: | Re: Carbon panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 01:11 PM 3/5/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>For those who have not worked with Kevlar.....my opinion of it is it is too
>hard to work with, too hard to cut and the edges are totally unacceptable in
>our applications.
Actually, it can be easy to cut if you buy cheap scissors instead
of expensive ones. Look for scissors that have a coarsely-ground cutting
edge. $5 or $6 plastic-handle office scissors.
The high-quality scissors have a very smooth, finely-ground
cutting edge. The Kevlar slides a bit, wads up, and jams in the scissors.
The cheap scissors have a rough enough cutting edge to grip the cloth so it
doesn't slip and wad up.
After a while the coarse edge starts to smooth out and the cheap
scissors don't work so well to cut Kevlar. At that point, you can either
regrind them with a course wheel, retire them to fiberglass and carbon
cutting, or simply throw them away.
> Formica, sure you can but I wanted a gloss finish and get
>much better results from plate glass. You can get different finishes with
>formica. In the picture posted, I used three layers of 5.7 set at 90,45 &
>90. On a full carbon panel, I'm thinking some carbon fiber angles made by
>laying up on a 3/4 x 3/4 piece of angle alum as reinforcement instead of
>using foam as panel space pretty well uses up available area.
An 1/8" or 1/16" sheet of balsa in the lay-up should not take up
much room and will keep the panel from flexing or "oil canning". The balsa
will bond much better to the epoxy and will not cause cracking with
temperature changes.
Message 60
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Dang you, Kosta
I'm ready for it to be summer.....
maybe if I fly there during spring break I can camp out and pretend there's
a flyin going on!!!
Ya know, there's usually enough mosquitos there for that to actually work.
;{(
I have to agree with Michael, the Cabelas seem to be really nice. I don't
have one yet as I have the REI three man, or woman, or any combination
thereof, Taj-3 that seems to work perfectly for one person and weighs under
8 lbs. So far its survived five flyins including two weeks at Oshkosh and
one week at Arlington.
But if my wife ever decides to join me I'm getting the Cabela cadillac even
though it weighs 23 lbs.
do not archive
http://www.cabelas.com/
http://www.rei.com/
Time: 10:25:32 AM PST US
From: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Camping at OSH
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
I have camped at OSH every year for the past, what 16? years I suppose.
I have seen tents come and go, literally (Hey, isn't that Dave's tent
rolling by over there?). The best I have found for relatively little
money for what you get are the Cabela tents, specifically the Alaskan
Guide Model. I have the 4 man for me, myself and I and my wife when she
can come. Holds everything I cram in it. At OSH it can RAIN which will
get in your tent. My Cabela's is the driest I have used or seen. It also
can BLOW there, either nature or some twin trying to blast himself out
of his tire ruts. The Cabela tents can be secured at multiple points and
stay put.
Search the archives under CAMPING AT OSH and read message 99850 April 02
babble for some more hints about camping there. Some things will be
changed as there will now be Custom Camping west of the forum tents.
YEA.
You HAVE to fly to OSH, and it is GREAT to camp there, even if you are
not that accustom to the great out doors. Early morning, smell of coffee
and someone cooking bacon, sun not up yet but orange glow over the lake,
conversation you can't quite make out over behind you to your left, two
P-51s and an F4U taking off in sequence 200 yards from your tent roar
the quiet away and are gone, quiet again except for someone somewhere
saying "cool!". Friends you only see at OSH, stumble out of their tent
and crawl over to yours, set up a chair and, smiling blurry-eyed, hold
out their cup for a bit of hot joe. Can't wait.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Message 61
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| Subject: | Re: Carbon panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
>Dana and I are still in the development stage on the carbon fiber panel
>so the jury is still out - but we have a pretty good idea of where we
>are going to end up. We are more interrested in having the look of a
>carbon fiber panel than we are in the structural and/or weight
>advantages we might gain from the composites. We decided early on that
>Kevlar probably wasn't going to be in the final solution. More because
>it is simply a pain to work with than anything else. I just don't know
>how to make all of the instrument cut outs, holes and trim the final
>edges. Kevlar is so tough that it resists cutting. On an instrument
>panel, you would have little "frizzies" where ever you had to cut
>through it. And, you can't sand them away, they just get worse the more
>you try to sand them.
This is a fact. You would have to plan the panel so that no cut
edges would show.
>I do like the idea of using the Rutan sandwich construction techniques
>to strengthen the panel. We will probably do that around the radio
>stack but not anywhere else. The main reason is, we are going to use
>this panel on three RV-7's that are under construction. As is usually
>the case, no two panels are alike. Making all of the panels the same,
>without the internal core material, we can make instrument cutouts where
>ever we want.
Mold the holes instead of cutting them.
Arrange plastic disks on the flat mold plate where you wanted the
round instruments to go. You would machine the disks to provide the exact
recess (or hole edge) that you wanted. You could also place rectangles for
square instruments. Secure the disks so they don't shift during the lay-up.
Wax and smooth the joint between the plate and the each disk so epoxy won't
get under them.
You bag the front layers (with a peel ply) over this negative
mold. Once the first lay-up has cured, pull the peel ply, add the spacer
and back lay-up, then bag again. (It might be possible to do it all in one
step, once you got the process down, but it could be difficult to get the
front layer to come out perfectly.)
When you pull the part, you have a perfect recessed hole (or plain
hole) for each instrument. Just trim off the flange flash from the back
with a cut-off wheel. The small flange around each hole will make the panel
much stronger and durable. Recessed holes and cut-outs would look super
slick and would also increase the strength of the panel.
Message 62
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| Subject: | Re: alternator notes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
W.,
The extra 3 diodes in a pack are called the diode trio (at least in GM
alternators). Its function is to provide power to the field (rotor). By using
the
trio, there is isolation from the battery in a car where there is no main
relay as in an airplane. In a car the alternator diodes are hot 24/7. The team
I
was on back in about 1966 (4 of us at Delco Radio in Kokomo, IN plus some in
Anderson, IN at Delco Remy) came up with the idea of putting the idiot light
between the diode trio (field +) and the switched battery, and found that it
detected about 90% of the faults and required no additional circuitry. Some of
today's regulators are much more sophisticated at detecting faults, and many
regulate off of the trio voltage if the normal voltage sense line gets unhooked
thereby preventing a complete runaway. Hope this helps explain the 3 extra
diodes.
Dan (Retired electrical automotive engineer)
RV-7A ( almost done)
In a message dated 3/5/04 8:24:46 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
>
> Most diode rectifiers have a 4th bridge pair that I think is used to compare
> V for the internal regulator so it knows when a failure is occuring in a
> main diode. This is how it knows when to activate the idiot light. But I've
> never proven this. But I mention it so you don't get worried if you see
> eight diodes when you are looking for six in the rectifier plate.
>
Message 63
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| Subject: | Re: alternator notes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
After rereading my earlier post, you may be referring to different diodes
that I was thinking of. Those extra diodes may be zener diodes for transient
suppression. They clamp the battery line to about 30 volts or so to protect the
electronic equipment in the car (airplane). There is a tradeoff as to what
voltage to clamp to because it takes more current to supress 20 volts than 40
volts. Of course we would like to clamp to 16 volts, but that is too hard to do
reliably and at a reasonable cost.
Dan
Message 64
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| Subject: | Vetterman Crossover for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Hamer" <s.hamer@verizon.net>
I have a Vetterman Crossover Exhaust system for parallel valve 0-320's and 0-360's
that fits the RV-6,7,8,and 9 including the "A" models that I'm not going
to use. It's currently listed at $775 through Van's. I'll let someone have it
for $675. It includes the muff and mounting stuff, everything you would get
if you ordered it from Van's. I've had it installed on the engine but the engine
has never been run so it's as good as new.
I also have Van's Gascolator (GAS-5) that I won't be using. $76 from Van's, $60
from me. New, never used.
Thanks,
Steve Hamer
-4 flying
-6 finishing
s.hamer@verizon.net
Message 65
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| Subject: | Re: alternator cooling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Doug Weiler wrote:
> Just a comment on alternators. I too had problems with Van's Honda
> alternator in my previously RV-4. Bought another from Vans. The new owner
> just reported to me that it has conked out again.
>
> I installed a B&C 40 amp alternator in my new RV-4. B&C tells me they have
> sold thousands and almost no reported failures. They are a well engineered
> unit as you all know. Not cheap, but reliable.
>
> Then the question arises, how come, after 10 years of use, the alternator in
> my 1993 Saturn finally failed. 120,000 plus miles which I figured
> translated to over 3000 hours of use. Now that's reliability!!
>
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
No fault of Van's. but I think he didn't get the rebuild quality that he thought
he was getting. Like I said in an earlier post, mine appears to have had the
outside glass bead blasted and resold as a re-build when It really wasnt even
taken apart. Some guys have had great luck and others havent had as good. The
one I got woudlnt have made it past the first run-up.
This thread has given some good input though and a lot of good ideas.
Phil
Message 66
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| Subject: | wood props and IFR |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Hi all,
I'm looking for some advice from more experienced pilots than I.
I have a Ted Hendrickson wooden prop on my plane, and I'd like to start
training for my instrument rating.
I've read that wood props don't like the
rain, and get beat up pretty badly.
Basically, I'm wondering is a little rain
going to really trash the prop, or
would it take hours and hours of rain flying
to cause damage? The prop has about
1050 hours on it, but was freshly refurbished
by Sensenich about 50 hours ago, nice
fresh clear coat, looks beautiful.
Thanks,
-Dj
Message 67
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| Subject: | Van's alternator - $18 at Pep boys |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
I got one of the bosch ones cross referenced to the 14xxx number. 22$.
It worked for about the same 250 hours as the Vans one did. It was not
until I got the Susuki 60 amp internally regulated, lighter, more amp
unit, that I stopped toasting them. My Suzuki unit has lasted about 600
hours without toasting. I believe I read somewhere in the aeroeletric
site why the Suzuki unit was far superior. Double fan, rated for the
high rpm's it turns and so forth. It is a $130ish unit. But the lifetime
warrantee, and lack of headache factor, combined with the increased amps
which I needed running an all electric plane with no mags, made this
alternator a much better choice fo me.
Mike
do not archive.
Oh and ps, sorry for the jiberish earlier in the week. Outlook web
access and the rv-list do not get along.
Message 68
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| Subject: | Exhaust Bracket Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Kyle, check my website. Under flying/135hr report. I too had several
broken ones. My fix has lasted over 1000 hours since.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Subject: RV-List: Exhaust Bracket Failure
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Looks like the exhaust hanging hardware on my airplane needs to be
changed every 100 hours or so. When I pulled the cowl for my condition
inspection, I found that one of the angles in the Vetterman exhaust
hanging system had failed. That was at about 220 hours. Previously (at
about 100 hours in service) I experienced a failure in the previous
version of the exhaust hanging system.
Has anyone worked out an exhaust hanging system that is reliable over
the long term? Tom at Van's indicated that lots of folks have
experienced failures in this area over the years, despite numerous
revisions in the hardware and attachement of the hangars.
Thanks in advance,
KB
==
==
==
==
Message 69
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| Subject: | Help me stop my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
The AFP preferred shutdown method is to pull the purge valve.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jason Sneed
Subject: RV-List: Help me stop my engine
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
For the last 2 months I have had a problem I can not figure out and
wanted to see if anyone has a direction to point me. I have a 6 with a
o-360 with the airflow performance fuel injection system. When I
shutdown, the engine is dieseling really bad. I did not know the term
dieseling but it basically means the engine will not shutdown fuel gets
ignited somehow and keeps turning the engine over. I pull the mixture
to idle cut off and then hit the electronic ignition and the mag and
the master. I do all this with about 1000 rpm. Before this started
happening I could shutdown any way I wanted with no problem. The only
way to get the prop to stop spinning and vibrating the heck out of the
airplane is to shove the mixture to full rich while everything else is
off and the engine is just dieseling. Not only is this causing damage
(exhaust breakage) it is dangerous. Tonight I cleaned (sand blasted)
all the top plugs, this made no difference. Has anyone had this
happen? What should I do next? I am suspect of the mixture control but
last time I checked the control was hitting the stop. The only thing I
did right before this happened was add avblend to the oil (I know that
should have nothing to do with the problem). The oil has been changed
since the avblend and I still have the problem.
Any ideas to help my RV not come off as a clunker on the flight line?
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
http://www.highland-parks.com/n242ds/index.html
==
==
==
==
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