---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 03/08/04: 45 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:20 AM - Re: Odessy Batteries (Jim Jewell) 2. 01:50 AM - Re: RV 4 Alternator (Dan Checkoway) 3. 03:31 AM - Re: Air Filter 0-360-A1A (BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks)) 4. 05:00 AM - Re: Odessy Batteries (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club) 5. 05:56 AM - Re: transducer manifold (Tailgummer@aol.com) 6. 06:08 AM - B & C starter for sale (Pat Hatch) 7. 06:35 AM - Re: Odessy Batteries (Scott Bilinski) 8. 07:01 AM - Re: Odessy Batteries (Darwin N. Barrie) 9. 08:16 AM - Re: Odessy Batteries (Dan Checkoway) 10. 08:38 AM - DiVilbiss PLUS Spray Gun for sale. (Francis Malczynski) 11. 08:43 AM - Re: Band Saws () 12. 09:10 AM - Oil on my windscreen - Part 3 (dmedema@att.net) 13. 09:27 AM - Backer board for interior panels (Donald Mei) 14. 09:29 AM - Re: Re: Band Saws (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)) 15. 09:48 AM - "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch (ewspears@comcast.net (Esten Spears)) 16. 09:48 AM - OdYssey (Darwin N. Barrie) 17. 10:23 AM - Re: Backer board for interior panels (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)) 18. 10:29 AM - Re: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch (C. Rabaut) 19. 10:46 AM - Re: Re: Band Saws (Tim Bryan) 20. 10:53 AM - Re: Safety Concern (Frank Eldridge) 21. 11:25 AM - Thorp S18 plans (Dr. Kevin P. Leathers) 22. 11:28 AM - RV 4 Alternator (pcondon) 23. 11:39 AM - Re: intersection fairings (Jim and Bev Cone) 24. 11:45 AM - Re: RV 4 Alternator (Scott Bilinski) 25. 11:50 AM - Re: Safety Concern (NEW Tool for the job) (Richard Meske) 26. 12:38 PM - Re: Safety Concern (Frank Eldridge) 27. 01:01 PM - experience with prop governor on fresh engine (Dan Checkoway) 28. 01:15 PM - Dynon flush mount (Ken Simmons) 29. 01:32 PM - Re: Dynon flush mount (Brian Denk) 30. 01:48 PM - Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine (Scott Bilinski) 31. 01:48 PM - Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine (Scott Bilinski) 32. 01:50 PM - Re: Backer board for interior panels (Gordon and Marge) 33. 02:36 PM - Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine (Mike Robertson) 34. 02:49 PM - Re: Backer board for interior panels (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)) 35. 02:58 PM - Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine (LeastDrag93066@aol.com) 36. 05:30 PM - Re: finishing up sequence of events? (Emrath) 37. 06:31 PM - Spelling - NOT RV RELATED!!!!! (Jerry Isler) 38. 06:34 PM - prop governor (Gert) 39. 06:41 PM - Re: Re: Band Saws (Douglas A. Fischer) 40. 07:18 PM - diodes (Wheeler North) 41. 07:27 PM - RV 10 Tail cone top skins (Eustace Bowhay) 42. 09:02 PM - dynon (Wheeler North) 43. 09:02 PM - Fw: XCOM, Pilot, Lightspeed and customer service. (Rob W M Shipley) 44. 09:32 PM - Re: Band Saws (Jim Anglin) 45. 11:22 PM - Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine (Dan Checkoway) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:20:23 AM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" Darwin, Try . Http://www.batteries4everything in California, USD $62.55 Good service to me in the land north of the border. they do have a shipping charge. It didn't seem like all that much to me at the time. Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darwin N. Barrie" Subject: RV-List: Odessy Batteries > --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > Hi All, > > I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on the Odessy batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post to the group. > > Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable shipping costs? > > Thanks in advance. > > Darwin N. Barrie > Chandler AZ > Doin' the wiring!! > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 01:50:01 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 4 Alternator --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" I second that...got the same 40A from B&C and everybody comments on how tiny it is. It was never an issue cowl-wise (granted, this is an RV-7). http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030720_alternator_installed.jpg Best of luck, )_( Dan do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Weiler" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 4 Alternator > --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" > > I have a 40 amp B&C alternator that fit my 0-360 RV-4 with plenty of > clearance. > > Doug Weiler > Hudson, WI > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Mcmahon" > To: "RV LIST" > Subject: RV-List: RV 4 Alternator > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: John Mcmahon > > > > Anyone out in RV4 land that may know who makes the smallest diameter > > alternator for the 0320 ...I have a friend that has the frame of the > > unit touching > > the cowl ,not the pulley!!! Thanks for any help.. > > > > John McMahon RV6 (near paint) > > > > Do Not archive > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:31:23 AM PST US From: BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks) Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Filter 0-360-A1A --> RV-List message posted by: BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks) Are you sure you have the Filter Air Box for the O-360, and not the O-320? On mine (O-360) the nose of the fiberglass box angles up and the directions said to notch the sides of the lid and angle the front up to match. My FAB contacted the cowl scoop on the left side. I made a new .062 plate mounting plate (the one that bolts to the carb) to shift the FAB to the right. ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:00:05 AM PST US From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" "Darwin N. Barrie" wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > Hi All, > > I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on the Odessy batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post to the group. > > Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable shipping costs? > > Thanks in advance. > > Darwin N. Barrie > Chandler AZ > Doin' the wiring!! http://sunnbattery.com/category.html?UCIDs=559844%7C1209500 Sunn Battery company 74.59 +5.50 shipping do not archive ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:56:00 AM PST US From: Tailgummer@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: transducer manifold --> RV-List message posted by: Tailgummer@aol.com You may consider just plugging the non-used port (may be utilized later??) and leave it as-is.. Tailgummer RV8 (Finishing) ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:08:15 AM PST US From: "Pat Hatch" Subject: RV-List: B & C starter for sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" I have a brand new B & C starter that I had to replace with a Skytec. Long story, but Van's snorkel for the IO-360 does not fit with the B & C starter. This is off a new engine from Bart going in an RV-7 that I am building. This is a new BCS206-149-12 that B & C sells for $550. I will sell it for $500 and I will pay shipping anywhere in the continental U.S. do not archive Pat Hatch RV-4 RV-6 RV-7 QB (Building) Vero Beach, FL ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:35:48 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski Make sure to order on line. If you call to order the price doubles!!! At 12:15 AM 3/8/04 -0800, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" > >Darwin, > >Try . Http://www.batteries4everything in California, USD $62.55 Good >service to me in the land north of the border. >they do have a shipping charge. It didn't seem like all that much to me at >the time. > >Jim in Kelowna > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Darwin N. Barrie" >To: ; ; > >Subject: RV-List: Odessy Batteries > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" >> >> Hi All, >> >> I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on >the Odessy batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post >to the group. >> >> Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable shipping >costs? >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> Darwin N. Barrie >> Chandler AZ >> Doin' the wiring!! >> >> > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:01:51 AM PST US From: "Darwin N. Barrie" Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" Thanks, I appreciate the tip. Just getting ready to order. Darwin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Bilinski" Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries > --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski > > Make sure to order on line. If you call to order the price doubles!!! > > > At 12:15 AM 3/8/04 -0800, you wrote: > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" > > > >Darwin, > > > >Try . Http://www.batteries4everything in California, USD $62.55 Good > >service to me in the land north of the border. > >they do have a shipping charge. It didn't seem like all that much to me at > >the time. > > > >Jim in Kelowna > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Darwin N. Barrie" > >To: ; ; > > > >Subject: RV-List: Odessy Batteries > > > > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > >> > >> Hi All, > >> > >> I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on > >the Odessy batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post > >to the group. > >> > >> Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable shipping > >costs? > >> > >> Thanks in advance. > >> > >> Darwin N. Barrie > >> Chandler AZ > >> Doin' the wiring!! > >> > >> > > > > > > > Scott Bilinski > Eng dept 305 > Phone (858) 657-2536 > Pager (858) 502-5190 > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:16:12 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" $80.09 door to door from Sunn Battery (that was in March of 2003). Higher price, but just a $5.50 flat shipping fee, which ended up being cheaper overall than Batteries4Everything, especially for CA buyers (no tax). )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com (I posted this same exact message I don't know how many times...so DO NOT ARCHIVE) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darwin N. Barrie" Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries > --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > Thanks, I appreciate the tip. Just getting ready to order. > > Darwin > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott Bilinski" > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski > > > > > Make sure to order on line. If you call to order the price doubles!!! > > > > > > At 12:15 AM 3/8/04 -0800, you wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" > > > > > >Darwin, > > > > > >Try . Http://www.batteries4everything in California, USD $62.55 Good > > >service to me in the land north of the border. > > >they do have a shipping charge. It didn't seem like all that much to me > at > > >the time. > > > > > >Jim in Kelowna > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > > >From: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > >To: ; ; > > > > > >Subject: RV-List: Odessy Batteries > > > > > > > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > >> > > >> Hi All, > > >> > > >> I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on > > >the Odessy batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to > post > > >to the group. > > >> > > >> Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable > shipping > > >costs? > > >> > > >> Thanks in advance. > > >> > > >> Darwin N. Barrie > > >> Chandler AZ > > >> Doin' the wiring!! > > >> > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > Scott Bilinski > > Eng dept 305 > > Phone (858) 657-2536 > > Pager (858) 502-5190 > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:38:26 AM PST US From: "Francis Malczynski" Subject: RV-List: DiVilbiss PLUS Spray Gun for sale. --> RV-List message posted by: "Francis Malczynski" I have a DeVilbiss PLUS suction feed spray gun for sale. It includes 1.6 mm and 1.8 mm tips, a #410 spray cap, and stainless steel cup. Used to paint one RV6. New it was $289, will sell for $175 and Ill pay shipping to anywhere in continental US. Please contact off list. Thanks Fran Malczynski RV-6 N594EF Olcott, NY ebbfmm@yahoo.com ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 08:43:52 AM PST US From: Subject: RV-List: RE: Band Saws --> RV-List message posted by: Thank you all for your input. I think I will take the time to get an up close and personal look at Delta and Craftsmen brands locally and peruse the manuals. Steve 7QB MEM Do not archive ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 09:10:54 AM PST US From: dmedema@att.net Subject: RV-List: Oil on my windscreen - Part 3 --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net Just to finish up the story that started when I noticed oil on my windscreen a couple of weeks ago. After doing some research on the web and talking to Bart Lalonde at Aerosport, it seems like the best adhesive for installing the crankcase nose seal is a 3M product #847 Scoth-Grip Rubber and Gasket Adhesive. I know it sticks to skin real well! After gluing the seal back in, I taped off the area, removed one of the prop bolt bushings, and drilled and tapped 10-32 holes in the bosses on the crankcase. I then fabricated some covers out of 0.062 aluminum, bolted them on, and saftied the bolts. While the plane was down, I also fixed a fuel leak in my gascolator and replaced a leaking tank drain on my left tank. Finally, I added a blocking plate on #1 cylinder to try and equalize my CHTs. Finally got it all back together and took her up on Saturday. CHTs are much closer, though still a little warm, and no oil leaks. I'll jerk the cowling off after a couple more hours and check everything. As a side note, I noticed that my exhaust bracket between my two Vetterman exhaust pipes was broken after only 30 hours! I need to call Larry and order his new kit to hang it from the engine. Back to flying. Doug Medema RV-6A N276DM ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 09:27:32 AM PST US From: "Donald Mei" Subject: RV-List: Backer board for interior panels --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" Dear All, I am sprucing up the interior of my RV. One of the things I'm attempting to do is make it warmer and quieter for my wife. To that end I have some leather for upholstery, and some foil backed. 3/8 inch foam. I plan to make a sandwich with the leather, foam, and a backer board. My question is what to use for a backer board. I have some Luan, but it is heavy. I'm hoping the list can provide some other ideas for a rigid, light backer board. Thanks, Don Mei ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:29:06 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Band Saws From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" Oh and one more data point for you. I bought the Home Depot Delta table top model. 59 1/2" blades. They did not make metal blades for it then, say 5 years ago. I had to do what another lister mentioned which was go to a saw shop and have a couple blades made. Cheap! One problem I had was that if I put too much pressure on the blade, it would snap at the weld joint. I busted several blades this way. 1 month ago whilst perusing the tools section I noticed that Home depot now carries a 59 1/2" metal blade for the delta. SWEET! I bought it and it works great and does not break when I put too much pressure on it. The Delta unit served me very well for my 6A, and is now supporting the super 8. I do not know how anyone makes it through an entire plane without one of these. Some do with ziz wheels, but not me. Mike Stewart Do not archive. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of nyman@bellsouth.net Subject: RV-List: RE: Band Saws --> RV-List message posted by: Thank you all for your input. I think I will take the time to get an up close and personal look at Delta and Craftsmen brands locally and peruse the manuals. Steve 7QB MEM Do not archive == == == == ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 09:48:58 AM PST US From: ewspears@comcast.net (Esten Spears) Subject: RV-List: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch --> RV-List message posted by: ewspears@comcast.net (Esten Spears) You are invited to view a Photo Album from Esten Spears. Hope you like the RV8/P51 formation shots. It was a real handful for the RV Pilots since the 25 knot gusts and turbulence pushed them around a lot more than the P51. Sign up with Club Photo today and get 25 cent 4x6 prints! Photo Album: http://www.clubphoto.com/reward.php?id=2100661&mid=members16_esten814128&pwd Top 5 reasons to join Club Photo today! 1) Get quality prints from that new digital camera you got 2) Share photos online 3) Send in film, get prints, and share the pictures online 4) Buy great photo gifts for the holidays You can join today at ... http://www.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/members/sign_up.pl ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 09:48:58 AM PST US From: "Darwin N. Barrie" Subject: RV-List: OdYssey --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" Thanks everyone. After evaluation the cost difference and calculating a UPS shipping rate I went with Batteries4everything. With the shipping to AZ I saved a few bucks. Maybe get them a little sooner. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 10:23:47 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Backer board for interior panels From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" I used POLYBOARD Durable, Waterproof Corrugated Polyethylene Board. Obtained from http://www.airtexinteriors.com/catalogue/misc.htm Lightweight, Easy to handle, fireproof, cheap. You can see some results here. Go to finishing/interior http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm Good stuff. Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Mei Subject: RV-List: Backer board for interior panels --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" Dear All, I am sprucing up the interior of my RV. One of the things I'm attempting to do is make it warmer and quieter for my wife. To that end I have some leather for upholstery, and some foil backed. 3/8 inch foam. I plan to make a sandwich with the leather, foam, and a backer board. My question is what to use for a backer board. I have some Luan, but it is heavy. I'm hoping the list can provide some other ideas for a rigid, light backer board. Thanks, Don Mei == == == == ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 10:29:34 AM PST US From: "C. Rabaut" Subject: Re: RV-List: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" Esten, What state is this Air Park located in? (might consider retiring there). Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: Esten Spears Subject: RV-List: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch > --> RV-List message posted by: ewspears@comcast.net (Esten Spears) > > You are invited to view a Photo Album from Esten Spears. > > Hope you like the RV8/P51 formation shots. It was a real handful for the RV Pilots since the 25 knot gusts and turbulence pushed them around a lot more than the P51. > > Sign up with Club Photo today and get 25 cent 4x6 prints! > > Photo Album: > http://www.clubphoto.com/reward.php?id=2100661&mid=members16_esten814128&pwd > Top 5 reasons to join Club Photo today! > 1) Get quality prints from that new digital camera you got > 2) Share photos online > 3) Send in film, get prints, and share the pictures online > 4) Buy great photo gifts for the holidays > > You can join today at ... > > http://www.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/members/sign_up.pl > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 10:46:53 AM PST US From: "Tim Bryan" Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Band Saws --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" Steve, I have a craftsman variable speed saw and use the non-ferrous metal cutting blade. It has worked very well for my RV project. Good Luck Tim Bryan RV-6 -------Original Message------- From: rv-list@matronics.com Subject: RV-List: RE: Band Saws --> RV-List message posted by: Thank you all for your input. I think I will take the time to get an up close and personal look at Delta and Craftsmen brands locally and peruse the manuals. Steve 7QB MEM Do not archive ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 10:53:49 AM PST US From: "Frank Eldridge" Subject: RV-List: Re: Safety Concern --> RV-List message posted by: "Frank Eldridge" January 1, 2003, I had a forced landing in a RV6A. After a ground roll of about 20 feet in a swampy area the plane ended up on its back. I found myself in the baggage compartment unhurt. I had always thought that I could kick plexiglass in the canopy out, but I could not. I always carry a pocket knife with a three inch locking blade and I was able to take that knife and break a hole in the canopy to get out. The only blood in the airplane was where I cut my hands on the plexiglass breaking a larger hole in order to extract myself. I strongly recommend to all my RV friends that they carry a knife like mine in their pocket because in my case I could not have got to a tool in the cockpit of the airplane. I have followed RV accidents very closely since mine, and a large number wind up on their back. So, please get a knife and keep it in your pocket when flying an RV. There is a story about my accident posted on Doug Reeves Van's Air Force Web page. Here is the link to m! y particular article: http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/FrankEldridge0.pdf Best of luck, Frank ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 11:25:54 AM PST US From: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" Subject: RV-List: Thorp S18 plans --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" Hello RV List, A friend of mine is looking for a set of Thorp (Lu Sunderland) S18 plans. They are no longer available separately from the kit. If anyone has a set for sale, please contact me directly at DrLeathers@822HEAL.com BTW, here is a site with info on the Thorp aircraft http://www.t18.net/about.htm Thanks Doc a.. To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bearhawk/ b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Bearhawk-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 11:28:42 AM PST US From: "pcondon" Subject: RV-List: RV 4 Alternator --> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" Your adjustment arm and belt may need changing to a smaller belt, not the alternator. See if using a shorter belt gets the alternator body closer to the engine. ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 11:39:37 AM PST US From: "Jim and Bev Cone" Subject: Re: RV-List: intersection fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" On my first two RV's, I made them part of the wheel pant. I plan to do the same on my third one that is nearing completion. Jim Cone 3-peat offender ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 11:45:59 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 4 Alternator --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski I had the problem of the alt hitting the cowl with more than a 2g pull. I got 2 belts about .5 and 1.0 shorter. Cut off the bolt hole in the alt belt tension bracket and installed another hole. The alt now is tucked up a little higher and does not hit anymore. At 02:28 PM 3/8/04 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" > >Your adjustment arm and belt may need changing to a smaller belt, not the >alternator. See if using a shorter belt gets the alternator body closer to >the engine. > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 11:50:24 AM PST US From: Richard Meske (SquirrelMail authenticated user rmeske) by www.gcfn.org with HTTP; Mon, 8 Mar 2004 14:47:22.-0500@matronics.com (EST) Subject: Re: RV-List: Safety Concern (NEW Tool for the job) Check out the NEW nifty tool for just this purpose at: www.aircraftextras.com Rich > --> RV-List message posted by: "Frank Eldridge" > > > January 1, 2003, I had a forced landing in a RV6A. After a ground roll > of about 20 feet in a swampy area the plane ended up on its back. I > found myself in the baggage compartment unhurt. I had always thought > that I could kick plexiglass in the canopy out, but I could not. I > always carry a pocket knife with a three inch locking blade and I was > able to take that knife and break a hole in the canopy to get out. The > only blood in the airplane was where I cut my hands on the plexiglass > breaking a larger hole in order to extract myself. I strongly > recommend to all my RV friends that they carry a knife like mine in > their pocket because in my case I could not have got to a tool in the > cockpit of the airplane. I have followed RV accidents very closely > since mine, and a large number wind up on their back. So, please get a > knife and keep it in your pocket when flying an RV. There is a story > about my accident posted on Doug Reeves Van's Air Force Web page. Here > is the link to m! y particular article: > http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/FrankEldridge0.pdf > > Best of luck, > > Frank > > -- Rich ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 12:38:50 PM PST US From: "Frank Eldridge" Subject: RV-List: Re: Safety Concern --> RV-List message posted by: "Frank Eldridge" January 1, 2003, I had a forced landing in a RV6A. After a ground roll of about 20 feet in a swampy area the plane ended up on its back. I found myself in the baggage compartment unhurt. I had always thought that I could kick plexiglass in the canopy out, but I could not. I always carry a pocket knife with a three inch locking blade and I was able to take that knife and break a hole in the canopy to get out. The only blood in the airplane was where I cut my hands on the plexiglass breaking a larger hole in order to extract myself. I strongly recommend to all my RV friends that they carry a knife like mine in their pocket because in my case I could not have got to a tool in the cockpit of the airplane. I have followed RV accidents very closely since mine, and a large number wind up on their back. So, please get a knife and keep it in your pocket when flying an RV. There is a story about my accident posted on Doug Reeves Van's Air Force Web page. Here is the link to m! y particular article: http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/FrankEldridge0.pdf Best of luck, Frank ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 01:01:57 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: experience with prop governor on fresh engine --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" I started my engine (AeroSport IO-360-A1B6) for the first time on Saturday, and everything went perfectly with the exception of the prop (Hartzell C2YK) not cycling. At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try, nothing happened for 5 seconds. Total running time was about 9 minutes. I figured, and others mentioned, that the likelihood is that oil is still slowly getting up to the prop hub, and that eventually it'll work. I temporarily disconnected the end of the prop oil hose and it there was oil there. Cool, I guess I can live with this for now...look forward to testing it again on the 2nd run. Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated that, nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650 or so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running time, 15 minutes. Now...I have to throw out a couple of data points: a) I have the "new" Jihostroj (aka "MT") prop governor that I bought from Van's with my FWF kit. b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit the full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does hit the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned that it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm skeptical. So here are my questions: 1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would be capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the ground if I can avoid it. 2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel issue being the cause. 3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going to do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if the prop becomes more responsive? If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me know. Thanks in advance, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 01:15:01 PM PST US From: "Ken Simmons" Subject: RV-List: Dynon flush mount --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" Anyone out there have pictures of the Dynon flush mounted? Thanks. Ken DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 01:32:42 PM PST US From: "Brian Denk" Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon flush mount --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" > >Anyone out there have pictures of the Dynon flush mounted? > >Thanks. >Ken Go thee here: http://home.comcast.net/~jwdanie/Panel/panel.html Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 01:48:50 PM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: experience with prop governor on fresh engine --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski >b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit the >full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does hit >the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes >maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned that >it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm >skeptical. You should be fine, I have the same govenor but with the WW 151 prop. I used the "factory demo prop" which was shimmed tightly and it would cycle down in RPM but did not have enough umph to climb back up to starting RPM. Now I have my prop installed and it cycles just fine. This is just an example of a tight prop and not so tight prop. >1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would be >capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior >that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has >anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to >be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the >ground if I can avoid it. I bet you need to run it up a little higher on the RPM. New prop could be stiff, as mentioned above. Try 2k RPM if it does not work there then somethig is wrong, in my opinion but I am no expert. > >2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a >shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel >issue being the cause. If you need a shorter arm then somehting else is wrong. >3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going to >do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if >the prop becomes more responsive? Full power??? What are you going to tie it to? You are going to tie it down right? At full power on my 8a I tied it to a tree (a big one) and I drag the tires and jump the chocks on all three wheels before I even get to full power. Surprised the rope streached that much!! > >If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me know. I am sure that at higher RPM the prop will cycle fiine.....I hope. Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 01:48:50 PM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: experience with prop governor on fresh engine --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski Beware on take off that if there is air in the govenor system the RPM will surge and REALLY get your attention. I saw this happen a few weeks back on a guys rocket. Really got his attention!! At 12:56 PM 3/8/04 -0800, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > >I started my engine (AeroSport IO-360-A1B6) for the first time on Saturday, >and everything went perfectly with the exception of the prop (Hartzell C2YK) >not cycling. At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and >nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try, >nothing happened for 5 seconds. Total running time was about 9 minutes. > >I figured, and others mentioned, that the likelihood is that oil is still >slowly getting up to the prop hub, and that eventually it'll work. I >temporarily disconnected the end of the prop oil hose and it there was oil >there. Cool, I guess I can live with this for now...look forward to testing >it again on the 2nd run. > >Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I >pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated that, >nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few >cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650 or >so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several >seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running >time, 15 minutes. > >Now...I have to throw out a couple of data points: > >a) I have the "new" Jihostroj (aka "MT") prop governor that I bought from >Van's with my FWF kit. > >b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit the >full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does hit >the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes >maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned that >it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm >skeptical. > >So here are my questions: > >1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would be >capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior >that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has >anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to >be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the >ground if I can avoid it. > >2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a >shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel >issue being the cause. > >3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going to >do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if >the prop becomes more responsive? > >If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me know. > >Thanks in advance, >)_( Dan >RV-7 N714D >http://www.rvproject.com > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 01:50:38 PM PST US From: "Gordon and Marge" Subject: RE: RV-List: Backer board for interior panels --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon and Marge" Subject: RE: RV-List: Backer board for interior panels --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> I used POLYBOARD Durable, Waterproof Corrugated Polyethylene Board. Obtained from http://www.airtexinteriors.com/catalogue/misc.htm Lightweight, Easy to handle, fireproof, cheap. You can see some results here. Go to finishing/interior http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm Good stuff. Mike Mike: I do not believe polyethylene in any form is fireproof. It is a polymerized hydrocarbon that may have color added. If it is black, the color is carbon black. If you've ever seen a polyethylene fire you'll want to be elsewhere. The soot is unbelievable. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 02:36:56 PM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: RE: RV-List: experience with prop governor on fresh engine --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" Dan, First of all, DO NOT fly it unless it works properly on the ground. If the propr system still has air nasty things can/will happen if you try to fly it. Vans is right about the control arm on the prop governor. It does not need to travel the full length as long as it works OK. At this point it isn't yet know if it is working ok so I would wait. Brand new props and the new Jihostrou governor are tight to start out with. I would suggest doing some more ground run first. Try going up to 2500 and cycling the prop then. And I would tie the plane to something very heavy first. Mike Robertson >From: "Dan Checkoway" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: experience with prop governor on fresh engine >Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 12:56:58 -0800 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > >I started my engine (AeroSport IO-360-A1B6) for the first time on Saturday, >and everything went perfectly with the exception of the prop (Hartzell >C2YK) >not cycling. At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and >nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try, >nothing happened for 5 seconds. Total running time was about 9 minutes. > >I figured, and others mentioned, that the likelihood is that oil is still >slowly getting up to the prop hub, and that eventually it'll work. I >temporarily disconnected the end of the prop oil hose and it there was oil >there. Cool, I guess I can live with this for now...look forward to >testing >it again on the 2nd run. > >Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I >pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated that, >nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few >cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650 >or >so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several >seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running >time, 15 minutes. > >Now...I have to throw out a couple of data points: > >a) I have the "new" Jihostroj (aka "MT") prop governor that I bought from >Van's with my FWF kit. > >b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit the >full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does hit >the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes >maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned >that >it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm >skeptical. > >So here are my questions: > >1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would >be >capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior >that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has >anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to >be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the >ground if I can avoid it. > >2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a >shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel >issue being the cause. > >3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going >to >do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if >the prop becomes more responsive? > >If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me know. > >Thanks in advance, >)_( Dan >RV-7 N714D >http://www.rvproject.com > > One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page download MSN Toolbar now! http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/ ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 02:49:57 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Backer board for interior panels From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" Perhaps fire"proof" was the wrong term. Fire resistant? The stuff is used on cert. aircraft so I assume it holds some tso, pma, stc whatchamacallit. Oh and it is a white plastic cardboard. I just put a match to a scrap piece and it melted like plastic but did not flame. Mike Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gordon and Marge Subject: RE: RV-List: Backer board for interior panels --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon and Marge" Subject: RE: RV-List: Backer board for interior panels --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> I used POLYBOARD Durable, Waterproof Corrugated Polyethylene Board. Obtained from http://www.airtexinteriors.com/catalogue/misc.htm Lightweight, Easy to handle, fireproof, cheap. You can see some results here. Go to finishing/interior http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm Good stuff. Mike Mike: I do not believe polyethylene in any form is fireproof. It is a polymerized hydrocarbon that may have color added. If it is black, the color is carbon black. If you've ever seen a polyethylene fire you'll want to be elsewhere. The soot is unbelievable. Gordon Comfort N363GC == == == == ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 02:58:57 PM PST US From: LeastDrag93066@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: experience with prop governor on fresh engine --> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com In a message dated 03/08/2004 1:03:05 PM Pacific Standard Time, dan@rvproject.com writes: At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try, nothing happened for 5 seconds. (Stuff Cut) Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated that, nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650 or so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running time, 15 minutes. Hello Dan, On the Hartzell and MT Propeller, the hydraulic propeller has a piston that oil pressure moves in one direction only. There wouldn't normally be any oil in the oil line, crankshaft or the back side of the hydraulic propeller piston on a new installation. Holding the propeller control back will fill the oil line and crankshaft, but it just pushes the air forward into the propeller hub on the first cycle. Cycling the prop control several times will purge the air out of the prop hub. Cycling the prop should be on your checklist as part of the engine run up. On the Lycoming IO-360 engine in my Cherokee Arrow, before I pulled the power back after the mag check at 1800 RPM, I would cycle the prop control until I saw a 500 RPM drop. It usually took two or three cycles for this to occur. On each cycle, I only held the prop control back briefly before it was in the high RPM position again. Jim Ayers Less Drag Products, Inc. An OEM Distributor for MT Propeller ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 05:30:15 PM PST US From: "Emrath" Subject: RE: RV-List: finishing up sequence of events? --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" I'm at this stage too. I am planning on using VAN's battery box forward on my -6A but can anyone tell if there will be an interference problem with the prop governor planned for my engine? I would like to mount the box and cut the hole for the cabin heat box prior to mounting the engine. Seems like best to do that prior to engine mounting. Marty in Brentwood TN Time: 06:35:36 PM PST US From: "Vince Himsl" Subject: RE: RV-List: finishing up sequence of events? --> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" Hello, I am there now....It is sort of a chicken and the egg stage isn't it! Well, here's what I am doing: Check with Van's Web Site as they have some additional notes/instructions about mounting the wings, the cowl and I believe the canopy. Main thing is they say to leave off all the engine doodads as they get in the way when mounting the cowl. I haven't mounted the top deck as I am concentrating on firewall penetrations in the vain hope of minimizing the crawling around inside when the top deck is on. I have the engine mounted. Some say to wait till you have mounted the firewall stuff, but I need the engine on to get an idea of where everything goes. I have been held up as I really need to have an idea of the panel before I proceed. I have decided on NO fuel/pressure/copper/etc. lines in the cockpit. NO Vacuum instruments. I elaborate as you need to know this before you start punching holes in the firewall. Everything on the firewall will be nutplated so you can imagine trying to do it with the top deck on. Are you using Lightspeed Electronic Ignition? Then you need to have a Manifold Pressure line to it and the coax cables need to seperated from the return sensor wires. This kind of circular detail can drive one crazy! Another reason I mention the panel is that the side sections (RV-8) of it are best dealt with before permanent installation of the top deck. My ignition switch will go on the right and potentially the carb/cabin heat will go on the left. Also if you can nail down the electrical wire routing (again firewall penetrations) you will be ahead of the game. With apologies to the traditionalists, I am going with Aeroelectric Bob's recommendations. There are other things you can be doing in parallel such as the upholstery, seats, cabin wiring, but you already know that. So wrapping it all up: Focus on the firewall and instrument side penetrations (and fuel lines, but you probably have already done that). Mount the top deck Then pick up with the plans at the Canopy. Of course, that is the game plan for today. Tomorrow could be another story. Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 - SB Finish "Aerosport and Lightspeed, but still procrastinating on the canopy" -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV8ter@aol.com Subject: RV-List: finishing up sequence of events? --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com Engine and finishing kit on the way. So what's the preferred order of events between now and riveting on the forward top fuse skin? I can see some things are on an equal level. Here's what I'm thinking. No vacuum system for me. I want to put a Lightspeed on one set of plugs but will wait until after 25 hour fly off. Mount the engine, install engine accessories, fit cowl, exhaust, baffles, oil cooler, fuel and oil hoses/lines, throttle, mixture, governor cables from cockpit, engine monitoring cables and sensors, finish panel, ???, cut canopy, rivet on top skin, finish front baggage door, install windscreen, ??? What have I got out of order or am missing? thanks, lucky ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 06:31:39 PM PST US From: "Jerry Isler" Subject: RV-List: Spelling - NOT RV RELATED!!!!! --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" Caution! The following is not RV related! Please delete now if you don't want to read anything not RV related. This is for the list spell checkers :-) (my e-mail spell checker found nothing wrong with the following) You just thought the spelling was bad! Aoccdrnig to rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteer be at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a taotl mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit a porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos Not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe. Do not archive. ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 06:34:36 PM PST US From: Gert rv-list Subject: RV-List: prop governor --> RV-List message posted by: Gert Hi Here is a question for those in the know... How would I know which prop governor (woodward, hartzell, et all) would work on a RV with a IO-360 A1B so I don't accidentaly get a feathering governor or one that goes to fine pitch or one that goes to course pitch on oil loss, etc......... Is there a reference list for governors somewhere ??? Thanks Gert -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 06:41:54 PM PST US From: "Douglas A. Fischer" Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Band Saws --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" I bought a 3-wheel 12" band saw from Grizzly. Infinite variable speed. Costs about $140. Also bought the metal-cutting blades from them. So far its been great. A 12" clearance in a bench-top saw. Doug Fischer -9A Wings do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Bryan" Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Band Saws > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" > > Steve, > > I have a craftsman variable speed saw and use the non-ferrous metal cutting > blade. It has worked very well for my RV project. > > Good Luck > Tim Bryan > RV-6 > > -------Original Message------- > > From: rv-list@matronics.com > Date: 03/08/04 09:14:21 > To: RV-List@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: RE: Band Saws > > --> RV-List message posted by: > > Thank you all for your input. I think I will take the time to get an up > close and personal look at Delta and Craftsmen brands locally and peruse the > manuals. > > Steve > 7QB > MEM > Do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 07:18:59 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: diodes --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North Thanks Dan, That's kinda what I was thinking. Most of the internal regs are hooked up to both the main diode output and the extra "trio" diodes so I always figured it started on the main, then kicked over to the trio, while comparing the two to monitor overall function. W W., The extra 3 diodes in a pack are called the diode trio (at least in GM alternators). Its function is to provide power to the field (rotor). By using the trio, there is isolation from the battery in a car where there is no main relay as in an airplane. In a car the alternator diodes are hot 24/7. The team I was on back in about 1966 (4 of us at Delco Radio in Kokomo, IN plus some in Anderson, IN at Delco Remy) came up with the idea of putting the idiot light between the diode trio (field +) and the switched battery, and found that it detected about 90% of the faults and required no additional circuitry. Some of today's regulators are much more sophisticated at detecting faults, and many regulate off of the trio voltage if the normal voltage sense line gets unhooked thereby preventing a complete runaway. Hope this helps explain the 3 extra diodes. Dan (Retired electrical automotive engineer) RV-7A ( almost done ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 07:27:17 PM PST US From: "Eustace Bowhay" Subject: RV-List: RV 10 Tail cone top skins --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" For those that have not reached this stage and are concerned about damage to the bottom of the tail cone when riveting, this worked well for me. In my kit there was a large sheet of one inch low density board, I cut pieces to fit between the frames and wide enough to rest on the outboard stiffeners. Then used these as templates to cut identical pieces of plywood from salvage from the shipping containers. With the low density foam board on the bottom and the plywood on top this distributed the weight evenly and gave the piece of mind needed for this part of the process. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. RV 10 # 30- Ribs on L/H wing ________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 09:02:24 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: dynon --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" Wheeler, Can you help me visualize how you "sliced on the bottom at angles one for each axis"? so you could adjust/shim the device so precisely? David DO NOT ARCHIVE ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wheeler North" Subject: RV Hmmm, first piece is 4" long by 2" wide at one end on the 4" axis it is 3/4" thick, at the other it is 1/2" thick Second peice is 4" long by 2" wide on one end/edge on the 2" axis it is 3/4" thick and the other edge/end it is 5/8" thick. These numbers aren't correct, in fact I don't remember what they were, but it was easy to calculate this and rough cut it, then sand each as needed only on the axis it was cut to, using the digi angleomometer to check after each adjustment to get it correct. This allows you adjust for one axis at a time, rather than trying to get them both at the same time. Then once glued in place I used some scotch tape as shims to fine trim. W ________________________________ Message 43 ____________________________________ Time: 09:02:24 PM PST US From: "Rob W M Shipley" Subject: RV-List: Fw: XCOM, Pilot, Lightspeed and customer service. --> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" Tom Friedland, California, Europa, wrote in the Aeroelectric List:- Hi Rob and anyone else interested in XCom products.. BEWARE! I bought an intercom from them and also had them make up a wiring harness to connect the intercom and switch between two Microair 760s. The intercom appears to be good, clear, light and small. HOWEVER, harness they supplied is totally inadequate. First of all, many the cables were mislabeled which of course meant they were connected incorrectly by me. I emailed Michael Coates, their honcho, and was told he would get right back to me. Did he, NO. I then asked him if I could return the harness to him or at least could he send me a wiring diagram. NO RESPONSE. I have attempted to contact him many times and asked at least if he would send back the $$ I had paid for the harness. NO RESPONSE. Since then, Microair has sent me a proper wiring diagram and I find that XCom did it entirely wrong, used the wrong kind of switch, etc. BEWARE... This customer feedback is very useful. I have recently suffered at the hands of Pilot. Their ear seals on my PA17-76 ANR headset had deteriorated markedly and I emailed them for help since it was within the five year warranty. Unlike the glowing reports of superior customer service from Lightspeed owners I was sorely disappointed. Pilot emailed me saying that everyone knows that ear seals are only good for about twelve months and that if I want a permanent solution I must send $25 for the silicone type. I replied that I felt ear seals on a product with a five year warranty should actually last five years or more. This failed to impress them and I was sent the old type as a replacement - the ones that "everyone knows only last a year". Their words! I suppose they are waiting for my check for $25 sometime next March or April! As Tom Friedland said about XCOM if you are considering a Pilot product, BEWARE! Rob Rob W M Shipley N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still! ________________________________ Message 44 ____________________________________ Time: 09:32:05 PM PST US From: "Jim Anglin" Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" I built my HR II using a cheap bench model Delta 8" bandsaw. It uses 56" blades and the only drawback is it won't cut steel. The 14-15 tpi wood blades worked fine for all the aluminum I had to cut. I even use a 7 tpi blade and it worked fine too. Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV-List Digest Server" Subject: RV-List Digest: 41 Msgs - 03/07/04 > * > > ================================================== > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================== > > Today's complete RV-List Digest can be also be found in either > of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest > formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked > Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII > version of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic > text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2004-03-07.html > > Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2004-03-07.txt > > > ================================================ > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================ > > > RV-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Sun 03/07/04: 41 > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 12:49 AM - Re: Re: Fiber post lights; was non-U.S. parts suppliers (MMcs139808@aol.com) > 2. 04:07 AM - Re: Re: Fiber post lights; was non-U.S. parts suppliers (Dana Overall) > 3. 04:57 AM - TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (N6JX) > 4. 05:58 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Darwin N. Barrie) > 5. 07:06 AM - Instrument lighting with LEDs (Hopperdhh@aol.com) > 6. 07:07 AM - Air Filter 0-360-A1A (Tom & Cathy Ervin) > 7. 07:07 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Charlie Kuss) > 8. 07:26 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Ken Simmons) > 9. 07:40 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Bobby Hester) > 10. 07:57 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Bobby Hester) > 11. 08:00 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (LarryRobertHelming) > 12. 08:05 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Darwin N. Barrie) > 13. 08:36 AM - The First Palmetto RV FlyIn Cookout (Ken Harrill) > 14. 09:08 AM - Band Saws () > 15. 09:42 AM - Garmin 430 Install tray for sale (N223RV@aol.com) > 16. 09:49 AM - Band Saws () > 17. 10:08 AM - Re: Re: Fiber post lights; was non-U.S. parts suppliers (Brian Kraut) > 18. 10:14 AM - Re: Band Saws (Ned Thomas) > 19. 10:15 AM - Re: Band Saws (Charlie & Tupper England) > 20. 10:29 AM - Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8 (Fly2eat@aol.com) > 21. 11:02 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Mickey Coggins) > 22. 11:38 AM - Re:Carbon Panel (Jerry2DT@aol.com) > 23. 12:31 PM - 2 new building resources (Paul Eastham) > 24. 12:42 PM - Re: Instrument lighting with LEDs (Robin Wessel) > 25. 12:52 PM - Re: Band Saws (Curt) > 26. 01:13 PM - Re: Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8 (Mauri Morin) > 27. 02:06 PM - Re: 2 new building resources (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)) > 28. 02:09 PM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Douglas A. Fischer) > 29. 02:52 PM - Re: Band Saws (Craig Warner) > 30. 03:41 PM - Re: Band Saws (Jim Oke) > 31. 05:17 PM - Re: Band Saws (Ned Thomas) > 32. 06:03 PM - RV 4 Alternator (John Mcmahon) > 33. 06:39 PM - > Re: Band Saws (Oldsfolks@aol.com) > 34. 06:46 PM - Re: RV 4 Alternator (Doug Weiler) > 35. 06:56 PM - intersection fairings (Dave Ford) > 36. 07:17 PM - cylinder blocker (Dave Ford) > 37. 07:46 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot (David Carter) > 38. 08:06 PM - Re: intersection fairings (N223RV@aol.com) > 39. 09:12 PM - Re: Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8 (Tracy Crook) > 40. 10:22 PM - Odessy Batteries (Darwin N. Barrie) > 41. 11:13 PM - Re: Odessy Batteries (Jerry Springer) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 12:49:31 AM PST US > From: MMcs139808@aol.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Fiber post lights; was non-U.S. parts suppliers > > --> RV-List message posted by: MMcs139808@aol.com > > Light Aero in the UK has post lights listed in their catalog, you will find > them on the web. > > Eugene > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 04:07:08 AM PST US > From: "Dana Overall" > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Fiber post lights; was non-U.S. parts suppliers > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" > > Gang, since I am not associated with Brian in any fashion I think it's fair > game that I comment on his post lights. I knew he had these lights for sale > with Spruce and Wicks but I had not seen them. He sent me a set as a door > prize at last weeks fly-in. Upon opening the box I was immediately > impressed with the quality of engineering and production that went into the > system. The ease if install was obvious. The system is very, very flexible > and I am certain will provide very nice illumination of instruments. I am, > without a doubt, chucking all my other lighting thoughts, and > acquisition:-), and will most certainly use his lighting system in Black > Magic. > > To add to my thoughts, when I first saw it, live and in person, my first > thought was, "he did it right". > > www.engalt.com/aviation.htm > > > Dana Overall > Richmond, KY i39 > RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" > Finish kit > 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon. > http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg > http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg > http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg > do not archive > > One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page download MSN Toolbar now! > http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/ > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 04:57:47 AM PST US > From: "N6JX" > Subject: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > --> RV-List message posted by: "N6JX" > > I had a chance to look at the new TruTrak unit yesterday at the Casa Grande > Arizona, Cactus Antique Aircraft fly-in. They will initially have two > units available, one with roll control like the Digitrak unit and a plain > turn coordinator without any autopilot functions. No altitude functions on > the Autopilot unit, roll control only for now. > > I really liked the way the units looked and the way the display moved. > However, the small size (2 1/4 ) really made the turn coordinator not very > satisfactory for me. This would be a great instrument if it were in a 3 > inch format. Same is true for the autopilot unit, the display is just too > small to use if you had to use it as a primary flight instrument. I did > like the way the airplane stayed level and the horizon pivoted around the > axis, this was a nice representation and would be really easy to fly from. > If they bring out a bigger unit, I would probably buy one in a flash. > > Mel Jordan > RV-6A N6JX > Tucson > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 05:58:50 AM PST US > From: "Darwin N. Barrie" > Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > Hi Mel, > > I saw the unit too and was very impressed, especially the price. He told me > the unit IS available in the standard size, so I ordered one. The 2.25" was > for display. Very, very cool and will look perfect under my Dynon. > > Darwin N. Barrie > Chandler AZ > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "N6JX" > Subject: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "N6JX" > > > > I had a chance to look at the new TruTrak unit yesterday at the Casa > Grande > > Arizona, Cactus Antique Aircraft fly-in. They will initially have two > > units available, one with roll control like the Digitrak unit and a plain > > turn coordinator without any autopilot functions. No altitude functions > on > > the Autopilot unit, roll control only for now. > > > > I really liked the way the units looked and the way the display moved. > > However, the small size (2 1/4 ) really made the turn coordinator not very > > satisfactory for me. This would be a great instrument if it were in a 3 > > inch format. Same is true for the autopilot unit, the display is just too > > small to use if you had to use it as a primary flight instrument. I did > > like the way the airplane stayed level and the horizon pivoted around the > > axis, this was a nice representation and would be really easy to fly from. > > If they bring out a bigger unit, I would probably buy one in a flash. > > > > Mel Jordan > > RV-6A N6JX > > Tucson > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 07:06:29 AM PST US > From: Hopperdhh@aol.com > Subject: RV-List: Instrument lighting with LEDs > > --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com > > RV Listers, > I just bought some cheap LED flashlights at a hamfest (a fly mart for ham > radio people) and am thinking of using them to illuminate my panel. I bought 10 > > of these flashlights to experiment with because they have some optics to > control the light pattern that I thought might help. I want a very low cost > approach. Bright LEDs are readily available now at Radio Shack and many mail order > > houses like Digikey. I am thinking of mounting them under the glare shield > aimed at the instruments. Has anyone else done this? > > LED stands for light emitting diode for any who don't already know. There > are some really bright LEDs available today. They are much more efficient than > > light bulbs which radiate a lot of energy at longer wavelengths than light. > They are also more reliable. Many traffic lights and taillights on cars are > now LEDs, and I have heard that LED headlights for cars are not too far off. > > Dan RV-7A (almost done) > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 07:07:21 AM PST US > From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" > Subject: RV-List: Air Filter 0-360-A1A > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" > > List, > I have run into a problem with the clearance on my FAB 360 airbox being > close to rubbing the cowl air scope? > The K&N Air Filter supplied is exactly 7" x 3 1/2 " O.D. I would be fine > if the Air Filter was only 3 1/4" High? > Has anyone else ran into this? It would appear the front my Airbox > needs to angle up more to use the existing filter? Sure don't > want to cut the box to increase the upward angle and re-glass? > > Tom in Ohio > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 07:07:46 AM PST US > From: Charlie Kuss > Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss > > What page of the new Sport Aviation is this product on? > Charlie Kuss > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > > >Hi Mel, > > > >I saw the unit too and was very impressed, especially the price. He told me > >the unit IS available in the standard size, so I ordered one. The 2.25" was > >for display. Very, very cool and will look perfect under my Dynon. > > > >Darwin N. Barrie > >Chandler AZ > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "N6JX" > >To: > >Subject: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > > > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "N6JX" > >> > >> I had a chance to look at the new TruTrak unit yesterday at the Casa > >Grande > >> Arizona, Cactus Antique Aircraft fly-in. They will initially have two > >> units available, one with roll control like the Digitrak unit and a plain > >> turn coordinator without any autopilot functions. No altitude functions > >on > >> the Autopilot unit, roll control only for now. > >> > >> I really liked the way the units looked and the way the display moved. > >> However, the small size (2 1/4 ) really made the turn coordinator not very > >> satisfactory for me. This would be a great instrument if it were in a 3 > >> inch format. Same is true for the autopilot unit, the display is just too > >> small to use if you had to use it as a primary flight instrument. I did > >> like the way the airplane stayed level and the horizon pivoted around the > >> axis, this was a nice representation and would be really easy to fly from. > >> If they bring out a bigger unit, I would probably buy one in a flash. > >> > >> Mel Jordan > >> RV-6A N6JX > >> Tucson > >> > >> > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 07:26:55 AM PST US > From: "Ken Simmons" > Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" > > It is on page 55 of the March '04 issue. > > Ken > > > ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- > From: Charlie Kuss > > >--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss > > > >What page of the new Sport Aviation is this product on? > >Charlie Kuss > > > > DO NOT ARCHIVE > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 07:40:13 AM PST US > From: Bobby Hester > Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester > > Darwin N. Barrie wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > > >Hi Mel, > > > >I saw the unit too and was very impressed, especially the price. He told me > >the unit IS available in the standard size, so I ordered one. The 2.25" was > >for display. Very, very cool and will look perfect under my Dynon. > > > >Darwin N. Barrie > >Chandler AZ > > > > > > > Did you get the standard size 3 1/8" turn coordinator without the > autopilot? I am interested in that. Was it the same price as the 2 1/4" > $395 I will be very interested in hearing your report after you receive it. > > -- > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ > RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 07:57:21 AM PST US > From: Bobby Hester > Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester > > Charlie Kuss wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss > > > >What page of the new Sport Aviation is this product on? > >Charlie Kuss > > > > > > > Sport Aviation, March 2004, page 55 > Not on their web site yet, seem like that would be the first place to > have it. > > -- > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ > RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) > > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:00:34 AM PST US > From: "LarryRobertHelming" > Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" > > Does anyone know if this is considered a trade up purchase (getting trade-in > value for original purchase of the digitrak) for someone already having a > digitrak and wanting to replace with the new wing leveler with TC? > > Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak > Firewall Forward > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Darwin N. Barrie" > Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > > > Hi Mel, > > > > I saw the unit too and was very impressed, especially the price. He told > me > > the unit IS available in the standard size, so I ordered one. The 2.25" > was > > for display. Very, very cool and will look perfect under my Dynon. > > > > Darwin N. Barrie > > Chandler AZ > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "N6JX" > > To: > > Subject: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "N6JX" > > > > > > I had a chance to look at the new TruTrak unit yesterday at the Casa > > Grande > > > Arizona, Cactus Antique Aircraft fly-in. They will initially have two > > > units available, one with roll control like the Digitrak unit and a > plain > > > turn coordinator without any autopilot functions. No altitude functions > > on > > > the Autopilot unit, roll control only for now. > > > > > > I really liked the way the units looked and the way the display moved. > > > However, the small size (2 1/4 ) really made the turn coordinator not > very > > > satisfactory for me. This would be a great instrument if it were in a 3 > > > inch format. Same is true for the autopilot unit, the display is just > too > > > small to use if you had to use it as a primary flight instrument. I > did > > > like the way the airplane stayed level and the horizon pivoted around > the > > > axis, this was a nice representation and would be really easy to fly > from. > > > If they bring out a bigger unit, I would probably buy one in a flash. > > > > > > Mel Jordan > > > RV-6A N6JX > > > Tucson > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:05:30 AM PST US > From: "Darwin N. Barrie" > Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > Yes, according to Richard Martin who was representing TruTrak the turn > coordinator alone is available in the 3 1/8" version. They only had the > 2.25" for display. > > It is very cool. It looks like much like a standard Artificial Horizon with > out the pitch component. Standard looking slip/skid ball. The unit is > electric and spools up immediately. The display unit had an internal battery > so people could test it out. The bank indicator is very sensitive. > > Just from the 10 minutes I played with it I believe it is the perfect > addition to the Dynon or other EFIS. > > Darwin N. Barrie > Chandler AZ > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bobby Hester" > Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester > > > > Darwin N. Barrie wrote: > > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > > > > >Hi Mel, > > > > > >I saw the unit too and was very impressed, especially the price. He told > me > > >the unit IS available in the standard size, so I ordered one. The 2.25" > was > > >for display. Very, very cool and will look perfect under my Dynon. > > > > > >Darwin N. Barrie > > >Chandler AZ > > > > > > > > > > > Did you get the standard size 3 1/8" turn coordinator without the > > autopilot? I am interested in that. Was it the same price as the 2 1/4" > > $395 I will be very interested in hearing your report after you receive > it. > > > > -- > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY > > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ > > RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:36:13 AM PST US > From: Ken Harrill > Subject: RV-List: The First Palmetto RV FlyIn Cookout > > --> RV-List message posted by: Ken Harrill > > > The Palmetto Wing of Van's Air Force > > Invites any and all RV pilots/flyers/builders/etc. to the > > FIRST PALMETTO RV FLYIN COOKOUT > > Saturday, March 20th > > Columbia Downtown Owens Field Airport > Columbia, SC > > Palmetto Burgers and Carolina Dogs > Grills will be fired up at 11:00 AM > > > No Program > No Vendors > No Speeches > No Organization > No Charge > (Donations Accepted) > > Just good food, RV's, and friendly conversation. > > > www.airnav.com/airport/KCUB > Note right traffic for runway 13 > > > Taxi toward the east end of the field (toward Rwy 31) and look for the > crowd. > > If you plan to come email Ken.Harrill@Columbia.SC so we can buy enough food. > > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 09:08:01 AM PST US > From: > Subject: RV-List: Band Saws > > --> RV-List message posted by: > > I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight. After going > thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will work. Anyone > have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a good deal? > > Thanks, > Steve > > Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes bevel cuts > from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the speed of the blade > from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade guide system eliminates > the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion assembly, hex wrenches, > and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold separately. > Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase > Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2'' > Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high > Requires 62'' blade > Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H > Tool weight: 30 lbs. > ITEM 40981-5VGA > $109.99 > > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 09:42:27 AM PST US > From: N223RV@aol.com > Subject: RV-List: Garmin 430 Install tray for sale > rv-list@matronics.com, vansairforce@yahoogroups.com > > --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com > > I have a brand new Garmin 430 install tray for sale. It includes the tray, > back plate with BNC connectors, all the pins, connectors, etc. All brand new, > > never been touched. I think they sell for around $180, I'll sell it for $150 > or best offer. Please e-mail offline. Thanks > > Do Not Archive > > -Mike Kraus > N223RV RV-4 Flying > N213RV RV-10 Empennage > > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 09:49:13 AM PST US > From: > Subject: RV-List: Band Saws > > --> RV-List message posted by: > > I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight. After going > thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will work. Anyone > have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a good deal? > > Thanks, > Steve > > Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes bevel cuts > from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the speed of the blade > from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade guide system eliminates > the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion assembly, hex wrenches, > and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold separately. > Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase > Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2'' > Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high > Requires 62'' blade > Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H > Tool weight: 30 lbs. > ITEM 40981-5VGA > $109.99 > > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 10:08:10 AM PST US > From: "Brian Kraut" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Fiber post lights; was non-U.S. parts suppliers > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" > > Thanks. I will check them out. > > ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- > From: MMcs139808@aol.com > > >--> RV-List message posted by: MMcs139808@aol.com > > > >Light Aero in the UK has post lights listed in their catalog, you will find > >them on the web. > > > >Eugene > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 10:14:40 AM PST US > From: "Ned Thomas" <315@cox.net> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ned Thomas" <315@cox.net> > > Hi Steve, > > I bought that saw when it was on sale last month for $99. I took it back for > a refund. It was an alright saw but is primariuly for cutting wood. I took > it back because the guide wheels are NOT adjustable. Harbor Freight has no > metal cuting saw blades for it. I did order a 50' 24 tPI blade and had some > welded to fit (62") but when I tried to install them they were too thick. > That is when I found that the guide wheels would not adjust. > > Hope this helps, > Ned > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > Subject: RV-List: Band Saws > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: > > > > I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight. After > going thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will work. > Anyone have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a good > deal? > > > > Thanks, > > Steve > > > > Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes > bevel cuts from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the speed > of the blade from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade guide > system eliminates the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion > assembly, hex wrenches, and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold > separately. > > Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase > > Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2'' > > Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high > > Requires 62'' blade > > Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H > > Tool weight: 30 lbs. > > ITEM 40981-5VGA > > $109.99 > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 10:15:33 AM PST US > From: Charlie & Tupper England > Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws > > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England > > nyman@bellsouth.net wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: > > > >I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight. After going > thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will work. Anyone > have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a good deal? > > > >Thanks, > >Steve > > > If you want mine (bought about 13 years ago & never made a cut without > the blade coming off), you can have it if you will come & get it. > > Charlie > Slobovia Outernational Airport, Jackson MS > > > > > >Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes bevel cuts > from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the speed of the blade > from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade guide system eliminates > the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion assembly, hex wrenches, > and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold separately. > >Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase > >Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2'' > >Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high > >Requires 62'' blade > >Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H > >Tool weight: 30 lbs. > >ITEM 40981-5VGA > >$109.99 > > > > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 10:29:22 AM PST US > From: Fly2eat@aol.com > Subject: RV-List: Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8 > > --> RV-List message posted by: Fly2eat@aol.com > > Any one know of a source for lighter weight gear legs for the RV-8. I have > seen them mentioned in the past, even with brake lines enclosed. L.D. > Jeffries. RV-8QB > > > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 11:02:40 AM PST US > From: Mickey Coggins > Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins > > > >Not on their web site yet, seem like that would be the first place to > >have it. > > "Huh? Internet? What's that?" > > Oh well. I guess I have to wait until the magazine gets here. > It's a shame - these computers get you used to instant gratification. > > > -- > Mickey Coggins > http://www.rv8.ch/ > #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > > > do not archive > > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 11:38:36 AM PST US > From: Jerry2DT@aol.com > Subject: RV-List: Re:Carbon Panel > > --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com > > Evan... > > I know laminated carbon is pretty easy to cut or drill. I wonder about > cutting with a laser though. As an experiment I held a propane torch to a piece > of > carbon which glowed red hot, but when cool, seemed to have not changed a bit, > wouldn't break easily at all. Then took some laminated carbon did the same, > epoxy caught fire, burned out, carbon still intact. Interesting stuff, so I > wonder what temp will cut it? Just noodling here, do not archive. > > Jerry Cochran > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" > > I bet I could get flat sheets laser cut....never tried carbon fiber but the > laser cuts metals, plywood and plastics with no problems. I just had an RV6 > (aluminum stock one)panel cut for a friend of mine and it turned out awsome. > I got to do the whole layout on Autocad and then watch the laser cut it > perfectly....the cut is just a few thousands thick. > > Evan > > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 12:31:28 PM PST US > From: Paul Eastham > Subject: RV-List: 2 new building resources > > --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham > > Tired of riveting on parts that you later learn to be defective? Yep, > there it is, right in the archives, other people have gotten the bad > part too. Van's even knows about it, but for some reason they didn't > tell the rest of us... > > Found errors in the documentation? Sure, we all have. You probably > realized the problem before you hurt your airplane, but what about the > next guy? > > Reduce the amount of suffering in the RV community. Register any > parts defects and construction manual errors you find, so new builders > can go and make notes *before* they repeat history: > > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv/defect.html (parts defects) > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv/manual.html (construction manual errata) > > Please invest a moment to help us newbies! :) > > Regards, > Paul > RV-9A wings > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv > > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 12:42:56 PM PST US > From: "Robin Wessel" > Subject: RV-List: re: Instrument lighting with LEDs > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Wessel" > > Check our HYPERLINK "http://www.lumileds.com"www.lumileds.com for their > line of Luxeon Star LED's that I bought from HYPERLINK > "http://www.luxeonstar.com"www.luxeonstar.com . The new Audi A8 will > feature what appears to be their 5W star's in a 5 light cluster for > headlamps. > > I built some nav lights using 3 of their star LED's and a simple current > regulator using an LM317 and a 3.6 Ohm resistor for my RV-10 project. > The light output is definitely brighter than a typical incandescent > source and the current draw is about 1 amp compared to 2.5 amps for a > reg. bulb. > > A link to the current regulator circuit is at: HYPERLINK > "http://linear1.org/gm/archives/00000147.php"http://linear1.org/gm/archi > ves/00000147.php > > I plan on using the Star LED's for the interior as well. They are > available with different lens patterns, colors, and outputs. Although > they cost about $10 a piece, they are easy to mount and 1 Star is a lot > brighter than multiple $2 super brights. They also sell some wide > dispersion board mount styles that many of the auto vendors currently > use for IP lighting. > > The concept I have is a to use one of each of the primaries clustered in > a color mixing flood configuration so that I can change the interior > lighting to any color I want. > > Other ideas- the local PC stores are selling EL strip lighting kits with > 12V inverters for less than $20. Although designed to light up your PC > box (don't ask me why!) I think that they would make great > under-glareshield lights for real cheap. > > Robin Wessel > rv-10 wings > Tigard, OR > HYPERLINK "http://robin.getbiz.net"http://robin.getbiz.net > > --- > > > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 12:52:17 PM PST US > From: "Curt" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt" > > I bought that same band saw many years ago. Very difficult to find metal > blades for it. I had to have a few made up special. Then they easily snap > when cutting anything of any significance. I finally sold it for $20 bucks > with no blades. Now that I am working on the RV-9 there have only been a > couple times when I wish I had one. But not enough to actually go buy one > yet. If I do, I will buy a good one and one that I know there are blades > for. > > Curt Hoffman > > RV-9A Wings done, QB fuselage, tail about done > Cherokee N5320W > TR6 back to running with HS6 SUs > Harley Road King Classic > Maybe I need a sailboat > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > Subject: RV-List: Band Saws > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: > > > > I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight. After > going thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will work. > Anyone have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a good > deal? > > > > Thanks, > > Steve > > > > Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes > bevel cuts from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the speed > of the blade from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade guide > system eliminates the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion > assembly, hex wrenches, and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold > separately. > > Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase > > Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2'' > > Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high > > Requires 62'' blade > > Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H > > Tool weight: 30 lbs. > > ITEM 40981-5VGA > > $109.99 > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 01:13:53 PM PST US > From: "Mauri Morin" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8 > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mauri Morin" > > http://www.groveaircraft.com/rv8.html > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > Subject: RV-List: Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8 > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Fly2eat@aol.com > > > > Any one know of a source for lighter weight gear legs for the RV-8. I > have > > seen them mentioned in the past, even with brake lines enclosed. L.D. > > Jeffries. RV-8QB > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 02:06:19 PM PST US > Subject: RE: RV-List: 2 new building resources > From: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" > > Paul, > > This is similar to what I had in mind when I began the "Bunny's Guide to > RV Building" site. > > See http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/ > > It doesn't really aim to correct specific 'errors' in the Manual -- more > like fill in many of the gaps. Similarly with 'parts defects' -- it's > more about how to work-around slightly mis-fitting parts than to > document whether or not they are mis-fitting. > > I suspect that some RV-9 (and a lot of RV-7 stuff) will still be > more-or-less the same as the RV-6, so its probably worth your while > having a skim through. > > Frank > (self-appointed keeper of the Guide) > > --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham > > Reduce the amount of suffering in the RV community. Register any parts > defects and construction manual errors you find, so new builders can go > and make notes *before* they repeat history: > Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online > at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL > (0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information > and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of > Learning. > > Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your > future > > > ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 02:09:57 PM PST US > From: "Douglas A. Fischer" > Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" > > From the picture in Sport Aviation, it looks as though when you upgrade to > the Autopilot combo version you lose the skid ball. That makes it an AP / > Turn-and-Bank and not an AP / Turn Coordinator. Since I'm looking for IFR > eventually, this doesn't really save anything for me, since I still want an > actual TC. Maybe the Standard size instrument varies from the photo and has > the ball. I'm considering a TruTrak AP and a combo AP/ TC (like the S-Tec) > would be nice, but from the pic it looks like the TruTrak falls short of > this. Too bad. > > Doug Fischer > -9A Wings > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Darwin N. Barrie" > Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > > > Yes, according to Richard Martin who was representing TruTrak the turn > > coordinator alone is available in the 3 1/8" version. They only had the > > 2.25" for display. > > > > It is very cool. It looks like much like a standard Artificial Horizon > with > > out the pitch component. Standard looking slip/skid ball. The unit is > > electric and spools up immediately. The display unit had an internal > battery > > so people could test it out. The bank indicator is very sensitive. > > > > Just from the 10 minutes I played with it I believe it is the perfect > > addition to the Dynon or other EFIS. > > > > Darwin N. Barrie > > Chandler AZ > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Bobby Hester" > > To: > > Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester > > > > > > Darwin N. Barrie wrote: > > > > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > > > > > > >Hi Mel, > > > > > > > >I saw the unit too and was very impressed, especially the price. He > told > > me > > > >the unit IS available in the standard size, so I ordered one. The 2.25" > > was > > > >for display. Very, very cool and will look perfect under my Dynon. > > > > > > > >Darwin N. Barrie > > > >Chandler AZ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Did you get the standard size 3 1/8" turn coordinator without the > > > autopilot? I am interested in that. Was it the same price as the 2 1/4" > > > $395 I will be very interested in hearing your report after you receive > > it. > > > > > > -- > > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY > > > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ > > > RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 02:52:10 PM PST US > From: "Craig Warner" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Craig Warner" > > I bought a Delta bench top band saw for $88 from a local building supply > store. Take the blade off and go to a machine tool supply house like Do-All. > They can recommend theeth per inch, blade width, and thickness. I bought two > blades for $16. Just watch out for metal flakes building up on the rubber > tires the blade rides on. Otherwise it works well. > > Craig warner 6A still building > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Curt" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt" > > > > I bought that same band saw many years ago. Very difficult to find metal > > blades for it. I had to have a few made up special. Then they easily snap > > when cutting anything of any significance. I finally sold it for $20 bucks > > with no blades. Now that I am working on the RV-9 there have only been a > > couple times when I wish I had one. But not enough to actually go buy one > > yet. If I do, I will buy a good one and one that I know there are blades > > for. > > > > Curt Hoffman > > > > RV-9A Wings done, QB fuselage, tail about done > > Cherokee N5320W > > TR6 back to running with HS6 SUs > > Harley Road King Classic > > Maybe I need a sailboat > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: > > To: > > Subject: RV-List: Band Saws > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: > > > > > > I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight. > After > > going thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will work. > > Anyone have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a > good > > deal? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > Steve > > > > > > Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes > > bevel cuts from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the > speed > > of the blade from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade > guide > > system eliminates the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion > > assembly, hex wrenches, and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold > > separately. > > > Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase > > > Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2'' > > > Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high > > > Requires 62'' blade > > > Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H > > > Tool weight: 30 lbs. > > > ITEM 40981-5VGA > > > $109.99 > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 03:41:11 PM PST US > From: Jim Oke > Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws > > --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke > > The need for a metal cutting blade depends what you intend to cut with the > band saw. I have had reasonable success with a simple wood blade when > cutting material up to 3/16" thick when roughing out fittings from 6061 > angle and .063 2024 sheet. Thinner stiff bends however. > > If you want to cut steel, well a metal cutting blade is pretty much needed. > > Equally important as the blade type and teeth per inch is controlling blade > speed - usually with a series of step pulleys. These are what the low end > machines lack and what makes them unsuitable for even semi-serious metal > work. > > Jim Oke > RV-3, RV-6A > Winnipeg, MB > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Craig Warner" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Craig Warner" > > > > I bought a Delta bench top band saw for $88 from a local building supply > > store. Take the blade off and go to a machine tool supply house like > Do-All. > > They can recommend theeth per inch, blade width, and thickness. I bought > two > > blades for $16. Just watch out for metal flakes building up on the rubber > > tires the blade rides on. Otherwise it works well. > > > > Craig warner 6A still building > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Curt" > > To: > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt" > > > > > > I bought that same band saw many years ago. Very difficult to find metal > > > blades for it. I had to have a few made up special. Then they easily > snap > > > when cutting anything of any significance. I finally sold it for $20 > bucks > > > with no blades. Now that I am working on the RV-9 there have only been a > > > couple times when I wish I had one. But not enough to actually go buy > one > > > yet. If I do, I will buy a good one and one that I know there are blades > > > for. > > > > > > Curt Hoffman > > > > > > RV-9A Wings done, QB fuselage, tail about done > > > Cherokee N5320W > > > TR6 back to running with HS6 SUs > > > Harley Road King Classic > > > Maybe I need a sailboat > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: > > > To: > > > Subject: RV-List: Band Saws > > > > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: > > > > > > > > I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight. > > After > > > going thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will > work. > > > Anyone have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a > > good > > > deal? > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Steve > > > > > > > > Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes > > > bevel cuts from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the > > speed > > > of the blade from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade > > guide > > > system eliminates the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion > > > assembly, hex wrenches, and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold > > > separately. > > > > Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase > > > > Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2'' > > > > Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high > > > > Requires 62'' blade > > > > Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H > > > > Tool weight: 30 lbs. > > > > ITEM 40981-5VGA > > > > $109.99 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 05:17:23 PM PST US > From: "Ned Thomas" <315@cox.net> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ned Thomas" <315@cox.net> > > Hey Charli, > > I'm always looking for an excuse to fly:) Can I stop by on my way back from > Sun N Fun and pick it up while meeting a fellow RV enthusiast? > > NEd > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Charlie & Tupper England" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England > > > > > nyman@bellsouth.net wrote: > > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: > > > > > >I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight. > After going thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will > work. Anyone have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following > a good deal? > > > > > >Thanks, > > >Steve > > > > > If you want mine (bought about 13 years ago & never made a cut without > > the blade coming off), you can have it if you will come & get it. > > > > Charlie > > Slobovia Outernational Airport, Jackson MS > > > > > > > > > >Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes > bevel cuts from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the speed > of the blade from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade guide > system eliminates the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion > assembly, hex wrenches, and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold > separately. > > >Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase > > >Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2'' > > >Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high > > >Requires 62'' blade > > >Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H > > >Tool weight: 30 lbs. > > >ITEM 40981-5VGA > > >$109.99 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 06:03:37 PM PST US > From: John Mcmahon > Subject: RV-List: RV 4 Alternator > > --> RV-List message posted by: John Mcmahon > > Anyone out in RV4 land that may know who makes the smallest diameter > alternator for the 0320 ...I have a friend that has the frame of the > unit touching > the cowl ,not the pulley!!! Thanks for any help.. > > John McMahon RV6 (near paint) > > Do Not archive > > > ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 06:39:38 PM PST US > From: Oldsfolks@aol.com > Subject: RV-List: > Re: Band Saws > > --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com > > I bought a band saw from Harbor Freight in 1982. I bought it on the phone for > $300.00. A few months later a friend bought the same saw for $169.00. The > same one now is $199. > I have built two RV-4's plus steel tubing hangar doors and sundry other > items. I used the wood cutting blade for all things aluminum,and metal cutting > > blade for steel. I'm still using it almost every day. > I have adjusted the wheel angles so the blade stays on OK. > I think it is well worth the money. > > > Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X > A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor > Charleston,Arkansas > Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers > > > ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 06:46:08 PM PST US > From: "Doug Weiler" > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 4 Alternator > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" > > I have a 40 amp B&C alternator that fit my 0-360 RV-4 with plenty of > clearance. > > Doug Weiler > Hudson, WI > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Mcmahon" > Subject: RV-List: RV 4 Alternator > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: John Mcmahon > > > > Anyone out in RV4 land that may know who makes the smallest diameter > > alternator for the 0320 ...I have a friend that has the frame of the > > unit touching > > the cowl ,not the pulley!!! Thanks for any help.. > > > > John McMahon RV6 (near paint) > > > > Do Not archive > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 06:56:02 PM PST US > From: "Dave Ford" > Subject: RV-List: intersection fairings > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" > > Am making my own intersection fairings and wondered if the lowers are normally > glassed into the wheel pants and split, or separate and "floating" as the uppers > are? > > Dave Ford > RV6 > > > ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 07:17:01 PM PST US > From: "Dave Ford" > Subject: RV-List: cylinder blocker > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" > > >I'm going to fabricate some .020" > >blockers out of AL, and just rivet them to the lower ramps. > > > Exactly what I did. I had a 30 degree difference with cyl 1 being the > lowest. Put a 1 inch hi wall in front of the fins on cyl #1 and now in > normal cruise my temps are all same at 335 +- 1 on all cylinders. I never > though getting cyl temps that close was possible. > ------ > Is it a good idea to make the blocker a 90deg block or more of a 45 or 60deg ramp > to smoothly direct air flow to the rear cylinder? > > > Dave Ford > RV6 > > > ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 07:46:38 PM PST US > From: "David Carter" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Pitot > > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" > > Wheeler, > > Can you help me visualize how you "sliced on the bottom at angles one for > each axis"? so you could adjust/shim the device so precisely? > > David > > DO NOT ARCHIVE > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Wheeler North" > Subject: RV-List: Dynon Pitot > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North > > > > The dynon pitot is a standard pitot, with a flat spot and a hole down > below > > the pitot entrance for the AOA pressure. > > > > It provides the same values for the pitot that Van's pitot does. > > > > It is not a static source like some pitot tubes are, so you will need to > use > > Vans simple system or ??? > > > > RE compass module. > > > > Mine in in outer rt wing, fwd of spar. I used two peices of wood .75" x > > 1.75" x 4" long sliced on the bottom at angles one for each axis. This > > allowed me to shim on each axis separately until it was inside of .2 deg > in > > aligment with the D10. Then I bonded it all together and final shimed it > > with tape. The hold down screws were ss #6 flush head that were screwed up > > through the top peice of wood, then I used the plastic stand off nuts used > > on circuit boards to hold the module down. > > > > This was the only place on my plane that allows 12" of separation from all > > iron and wires. > > > > W > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:06:31 PM PST US > From: N223RV@aol.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: intersection fairings > > --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com > > Mine are separate and screwed to the wheel pants with #8 screws and nut > plates on the wheel pants. > > -Mike Kraus > N223RV RV-4 Flying > N213RV RV-10 Empennage > > > ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 09:12:14 PM PST US > From: "Tracy Crook" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8 > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" > > I used the Grove aluminum gear on my RV-8. Got the streamlined version so no fairing > is required. Saves about 15 pounds. > > Tracy Crook > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Fly2eat@aol.com > > Any one know of a source for lighter weight gear legs for the RV-8. I have > seen them mentioned in the past, even with brake lines enclosed. L.D. > Jeffries. RV-8QB > > > ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 10:22:50 PM PST US > From: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > Subject: RV-List: Odessy Batteries > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > Hi All, > > I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on the Odessy > batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post to the group. > > Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable shipping costs? > > Thanks in advance. > > Darwin N. Barrie > Chandler AZ > Doin' the wiring!! > > > ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 11:13:59 PM PST US > From: Jerry Springer > Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries > > --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer > > Darwin N. Barrie wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" > > > >Hi All, > > > >I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on the Odessy > batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post to the > group. > > > >Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable shipping costs? > > > >Thanks in advance. > > > >Darwin N. Barrie > >Chandler AZ > >Doin' the wiring!! > > > > > > > > > Try spelling it Odyssey and maybe you won't think the archives suck so > bad. :-) > > Jerry > > ________________________________ Message 45 ____________________________________ Time: 11:22:57 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Got it working tonight, after talking to Ken Balch, Tom Green at Van's, Bart at AeroSport Power, and after reading various helpful responses (thanks!). Took off the governor oil hose, blew it out to confirm it wasn't blocked. Nothing but a little oil came out, and it was clear. I tweaked the prop cable and governor arm adjustments and got a *tiny* bit more travel. It now gets maybe 80% of full travel. Tom Green confirmed that you don't need full governor actuation, as long as the fine pitch stop is hit. Then I ran it up to 2000 RPM instead of 1800, and I was getting 400-500 RPM drops and the prop was much more responsive. Problem seems to have gone away...not quite sure which of the above factors did it...would have done more isolation testing if I wasn't trying to minimize ground run-time. I figure I'm done running this puppy until first flight. Thanks again for the responses, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: experience with prop governor on fresh engine > I started my engine (AeroSport IO-360-A1B6) for the first time on Saturday, > and everything went perfectly with the exception of the prop (Hartzell C2YK) > not cycling. At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and > nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try, > nothing happened for 5 seconds. Total running time was about 9 minutes. > > I figured, and others mentioned, that the likelihood is that oil is still > slowly getting up to the prop hub, and that eventually it'll work. I > temporarily disconnected the end of the prop oil hose and it there was oil > there. Cool, I guess I can live with this for now...look forward to testing > it again on the 2nd run. > > Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I > pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated that, > nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few > cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650 or > so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several > seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running > time, 15 minutes. > > Now...I have to throw out a couple of data points: > > a) I have the "new" Jihostroj (aka "MT") prop governor that I bought from > Van's with my FWF kit. > > b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit the > full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does hit > the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes > maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned that > it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm > skeptical. > > So here are my questions: > > 1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would be > capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior > that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has > anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to > be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the > ground if I can avoid it. > > 2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a > shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel > issue being the cause. > > 3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going to > do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if > the prop becomes more responsive? > > If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me know. > > Thanks in advance, > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D > http://www.rvproject.com >