Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:09 AM - Re: Backer board for interior panels (BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks))
2. 05:40 AM - Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant (Jamie Painter)
3. 05:59 AM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant (Trainnut01@aol.com)
4. 06:02 AM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant (Pat Hatch)
5. 06:13 AM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant (Pat Hatch)
6. 06:38 AM - Thanks for the Info (Donald Mei)
7. 06:46 AM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant (Cy Galley)
8. 06:46 AM - Very Nice Leather for RV Interiors (Donald Mei)
9. 06:57 AM - Re: Re: Safety Concern (Dwpetrus@aol.com)
10. 07:00 AM - BNC fuel tank bulkhead fittings (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
11. 07:07 AM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant (Jamie Painter)
12. 07:28 AM - Re: RV 10 Tail cone top skins (BBreckenridge@att.net)
13. 08:01 AM - Re: Re: Safety Concern (Jason Sneed)
14. 08:05 AM - Weatherstrip Adhesive (John Wiegenstein)
15. 08:32 AM - Re: Weatherstrip Adhesive (Scott Bilinski)
16. 08:43 AM - Re: intersection fairings (Imfairings@aol.com)
17. 09:14 AM - Aluminum MT Propeller group buy (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
18. 09:14 AM - Wing Attach Questions... (RV6AOKC@aol.com)
19. 09:21 AM - AirVenture Cup Race (Lenleg@aol.com)
20. 09:47 AM - [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
21. 10:10 AM - Re: Wing Attach Questions... (Kyle Boatright)
22. 10:35 AM - Re: Leeward Air Ranch (Esten Spears)
23. 10:56 AM - Re: Re: Leeward Air Ranch (JW MILLS)
24. 11:20 AM - Backer board for interior panels (Ronschreck99@aol.com)
25. 11:31 AM - Re: Weatherstrip Adhesive (Dean Pichon)
26. 12:34 PM - 21 years (Wheeler North)
27. 01:16 PM - prop governor (P M Condon)
28. 01:18 PM - Re: 21 years (Scott Bilinski)
29. 01:32 PM - Used Monroy ATD-200 anti collision units. (Dana Overall)
30. 03:15 PM - >Re:Wing Attach Questions (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
31. 03:40 PM - Re: BNC fuel tank bulkhead fittings (Mike Mckenna)
32. 05:59 PM - Aligning gear leg fairings (Dave Ford)
33. 06:34 PM - Re: [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Paul Parashak)
34. 07:01 PM - Re: Aligning gear leg fairings (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
35. 08:31 PM - Re: Backer board for interior panels (kempthornes)
36. 08:39 PM - Re: Wing Attach Questions... (kempthornes)
37. 10:35 PM - SteinAir (Jack Lockamy)
38. 10:36 PM - RV3/4 Round cowl inlet size (Rick Fogerson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
I used .016 aluminum
Message 2
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| Subject: | Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
Fellow Listers:
Please bare with me as I am a new builder. I have searched the archives
for an answer to my question by have yet to find it.
I used PC-7 two-part epoxy paste I found at my local Ace Hardware to seal
my -7 rudder trailing edge. I've had some experience with this stuff
before as I used it several several years ago to seal a gas tank leak
(more like pour instead of a leak) in a friend's classic Ford Mustang.
However, I never had to *remove* it from the Mustang tank. In my
overzealous session of sealant application, I used a bit too much and the
sealant oozed up through the holes as I clocoed it together. In
retrospect, I should have clamped the trailing edge very well to squeeze
out the excess sealant or went back after inserting clecoes, remove each
one and wipe it clean.
I, however, did not do this. Now I have this epoxy stuff on my trailing
edge skings. Let me tell you, this stuff is not going anywhere! I even
tried using a little aluminum brissled scuffing brush. The brush did a
helluva job removing alcad but none of the sealant. I figure I can
probably take my die grinder and Scotch Bright wheel to it but I a bit
concerned with the thickness (or lack thereof) of the skin. Also, the
Scotch Bright wheel/pad will not get into the dimpled holes.
I also tried using my deburring bit I got from Cleaveland. This worked
well to get rid of the heavy build-up of sealeant, but in the dimples
where the sealant is hardened on one side of the dimple, the deburring
tool seeems to like the each away at the metal but not at the sealant.
Ok listers, any ideas?
Jamie
RV-7A Rudder
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant |
--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
Okay listers one question leeds to another. The text of the empanage
instructions seemed to indicate that the purpose of the sealant in the rudder was
to
help insure a straight trailing edge by holding the edge straight during
riveting. I've been experimenting with various pieces of scrap and have found that
the edge will rivet up "string straight" just by alternating sides with the
rivet heads. Is the sealant really necessary?
Carroll Jernigan
RV-7A Wings
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Jaimie,
I think the epoxy is probably harder than the aluminum...so, looks like you
need about 120 weight sandpaper and work the epoxy (only) down to the
skin...don't worry too much about getting it out of the dimples, perhaps
later you can fill all the dimples prior to painting and get a nice effect.
I would prime the area with a 2-part epoxy primer after you are done since
you have probably lost some of your corrosion protection by sanding away the
alclad. I would take my time and just go easy, sand on the epoxy only,
avoid the aluminum.
do not archive
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> Please bare with me as I am a new builder. I have searched the archives
> for an answer to my question by have yet to find it.
>
> I used PC-7 two-part epoxy paste I found at my local Ace Hardware to seal
> my -7 rudder trailing edge. I've had some experience with this stuff
> before as I used it several several years ago to seal a gas tank leak
> (more like pour instead of a leak) in a friend's classic Ford Mustang.
>
> However, I never had to *remove* it from the Mustang tank. In my
> overzealous session of sealant application, I used a bit too much and the
> sealant oozed up through the holes as I clocoed it together. In
> retrospect, I should have clamped the trailing edge very well to squeeze
> out the excess sealant or went back after inserting clecoes, remove each
> one and wipe it clean.
>
> I, however, did not do this. Now I have this epoxy stuff on my trailing
> edge skings. Let me tell you, this stuff is not going anywhere! I even
> tried using a little aluminum brissled scuffing brush. The brush did a
> helluva job removing alcad but none of the sealant. I figure I can
> probably take my die grinder and Scotch Bright wheel to it but I a bit
> concerned with the thickness (or lack thereof) of the skin. Also, the
> Scotch Bright wheel/pad will not get into the dimpled holes.
>
> I also tried using my deburring bit I got from Cleaveland. This worked
> well to get rid of the heavy build-up of sealeant, but in the dimples
> where the sealant is hardened on one side of the dimple, the deburring
> tool seeems to like the each away at the metal but not at the sealant.
>
> Ok listers, any ideas?
>
> Jamie
> RV-7A Rudder
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Jaimie,
I just re-read your message and I am unclear as to whether you have set the
trailing edge rivets yet...I had assumed that you had. If not, drill out
the holes, then you can probably use a countersink bit in a microstop to
work the dimples enough where you can set the rivets--adjust the microstop
so that you are countersinking only the epoxy and not the aluminum. When
done, depending on how it looks, I would just fill all of the rivets with
Feather Fill or some kind of body paste so that it will look consistent.
Who knows, it might even look better than the manual's way.
do not archive
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> Please bare with me as I am a new builder. I have searched the archives
> for an answer to my question by have yet to find it.
>
> I used PC-7 two-part epoxy paste I found at my local Ace Hardware to seal
> my -7 rudder trailing edge. I've had some experience with this stuff
> before as I used it several several years ago to seal a gas tank leak
> (more like pour instead of a leak) in a friend's classic Ford Mustang.
>
> However, I never had to *remove* it from the Mustang tank. In my
> overzealous session of sealant application, I used a bit too much and the
> sealant oozed up through the holes as I clocoed it together. In
> retrospect, I should have clamped the trailing edge very well to squeeze
> out the excess sealant or went back after inserting clecoes, remove each
> one and wipe it clean.
>
> I, however, did not do this. Now I have this epoxy stuff on my trailing
> edge skings. Let me tell you, this stuff is not going anywhere! I even
> tried using a little aluminum brissled scuffing brush. The brush did a
> helluva job removing alcad but none of the sealant. I figure I can
> probably take my die grinder and Scotch Bright wheel to it but I a bit
> concerned with the thickness (or lack thereof) of the skin. Also, the
> Scotch Bright wheel/pad will not get into the dimpled holes.
>
> I also tried using my deburring bit I got from Cleaveland. This worked
> well to get rid of the heavy build-up of sealeant, but in the dimples
> where the sealant is hardened on one side of the dimple, the deburring
> tool seeems to like the each away at the metal but not at the sealant.
>
> Ok listers, any ideas?
>
> Jamie
> RV-7A Rudder
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Thanks for the Info |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Thanks for the info on the Airtex Polyboard. I just ordered it.
Details for any other builders:
48 x 80 sheet is $12
Shipping is $16 for any quantity between 1 and 6 sheets. So if you can
purchase with others it drops delivered cost per sheet.
Don
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
Frustrated with dial-up? Lightning-fast Internet access for as low as
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
They make a "paint remover" that says it will remove epoxy.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> Please bare with me as I am a new builder. I have searched the archives
> for an answer to my question by have yet to find it.
>
> I used PC-7 two-part epoxy paste I found at my local Ace Hardware to seal
> my -7 rudder trailing edge. I've had some experience with this stuff
> before as I used it several several years ago to seal a gas tank leak
> (more like pour instead of a leak) in a friend's classic Ford Mustang.
>
> However, I never had to *remove* it from the Mustang tank. In my
> overzealous session of sealant application, I used a bit too much and the
> sealant oozed up through the holes as I clocoed it together. In
> retrospect, I should have clamped the trailing edge very well to squeeze
> out the excess sealant or went back after inserting clecoes, remove each
> one and wipe it clean.
>
> I, however, did not do this. Now I have this epoxy stuff on my trailing
> edge skings. Let me tell you, this stuff is not going anywhere! I even
> tried using a little aluminum brissled scuffing brush. The brush did a
> helluva job removing alcad but none of the sealant. I figure I can
> probably take my die grinder and Scotch Bright wheel to it but I a bit
> concerned with the thickness (or lack thereof) of the skin. Also, the
> Scotch Bright wheel/pad will not get into the dimpled holes.
>
> I also tried using my deburring bit I got from Cleaveland. This worked
> well to get rid of the heavy build-up of sealeant, but in the dimples
> where the sealant is hardened on one side of the dimple, the deburring
> tool seeems to like the each away at the metal but not at the sealant.
>
> Ok listers, any ideas?
>
> Jamie
> RV-7A Rudder
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Very Nice Leather for RV Interiors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Dear All,
I am trying to gauge the market for a product that I may be able to make
available to builders.
I have access to very nice Leather Hides. These hides are tanned in such a
way that the result is much like the leather in a nice car. They are soft
but durrable.
(I have access to analine leather which is softer and buttery smooth, but
thats not appropriate in an RV where you have to stand on the seat to get
in. The surface of analine leather is porous)
Depending on quantity I would be able to provide the leather to builders for
a cost of anywhere from $150 to $175 per hide. These hides are roughly 50
sq ft. One hide should be more than enough for any 2 seat RV including
Seats, trim, stick boots. If you want to do all the side panels, you may
need 2.
Pretty much any color is available.
Any interest in this??
Best regards,
Don Mei
RV-4
3B9 - Chester, CT
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Safety Concern |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
I strongly agree and I carry the mini backpack axe made by Gerber. It has a
composite handle and is a compact and light extraction tool. I have the pouch
rivited to the lower panel and the axe fits perfectly.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
Message 10
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| Subject: | BNC fuel tank bulkhead fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Thought I would provide the list with some recent challenges and finding
of the capacitive sending units from Vans, and more specifically, issues
surrounding the in tank, inboard rib , bulkhead fitting.
My trouble started with irratic fuel tank readings. It was all over the
place from the gage reading "open" circuit, to wrong reading to correct
ones. I replaced the coax, connectors, and so forth and was not able to
find the problem. A phonecall to my buddy Delta A&P mechanic Scott
Solberg revealed a potential risk, the tank bulkhead BNC connector.
Apparently these are common sources of failures in the heavy's and he
suggested I take a look. A closer inspection found that I had in fact,
fuel weeping coming out of the center pin of the connector.
I pulled the tank, pulled the access plate and covered the back of the
fitting with proseal. I remounted the tank. 4 flight hours later,
problem is back, worse than ever.
When I pulled the tank this time, with an intention of replacing the
connector, I noticed the white insulator in the bnc connector was
deteriorated, cracked, and crumbling. Turns out the connector is not
fuel proof and is does dry out and crack. My connector has only been in
the fuel for 2.5 years.
So, I decided there was no sense in replacing the connector with another
one. I was able to push out the center pin of the bulkhead fitting and
pull my 22 gauge wire through it and have it hanging outside the tank. I
prosealed it in place and now have what I feel is a permanent solution
to the problem. The gauge only needs to get the signal from the center
conductor, and have a ground back to the tank.
I did find this bnc connector issue in the archives but do not recall
anyone ever really discussing it. So a word to the wise... Devise a
better method of getting the wire out of the tank other than the bnc
connector. Once the plastic insulator gets fuel on it, it will
deteriorate.
Oh and one more thing. One of my nightmares was getting the screws out
of the mounted tank w/o chipping the tank paint. After chipping paint
off the tank of about 30 screws, I found a solution. A number 6 aluminum
fuel line has the same inside diameter as a number 8 screw head. I took
the tube to the belt sander and sanded a sharp tapered edge so the I
could turn the tube over the screw head and it would cut the paint. This
worked really well and I would recommend this for any first time screw
removal where the screw was painted in place.
Regards,
Michael Stewart
Tank doesn't leak, and the gauge is back working.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
No, I have not set the rivets yet. My main concern with the trailing edge
is that some of the rivets will not set flush because of the hardened
epoxy in the dimple. I'm not too worried about the epoxy on the skin
because I can deal with it in the painting process. I'll try your
countersink idea. It sounds viable.
do not archive
Many thanks,
Jamie
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
>
> Jaimie,
>
> I just re-read your message and I am unclear as to whether you have set
> the
> trailing edge rivets yet...I had assumed that you had. If not, drill out
> the holes, then you can probably use a countersink bit in a microstop to
> work the dimples enough where you can set the rivets--adjust the microstop
> so that you are countersinking only the epoxy and not the aluminum. When
> done, depending on how it looks, I would just fill all of the rivets with
> Feather Fill or some kind of body paste so that it will look consistent.
> Who knows, it might even look better than the manual's way.
>
> do not archive
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4
> RV-6
> RV-7 QB (Building)
> Vero Beach, FL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Rudder Trailing Edge Sealant
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
>>
>> Fellow Listers:
>>
>> Please bare with me as I am a new builder. I have searched the archives
>> for an answer to my question by have yet to find it.
>>
>> I used PC-7 two-part epoxy paste I found at my local Ace Hardware to
>> seal
>> my -7 rudder trailing edge. I've had some experience with this stuff
>> before as I used it several several years ago to seal a gas tank leak
>> (more like pour instead of a leak) in a friend's classic Ford Mustang.
>>
>> However, I never had to *remove* it from the Mustang tank. In my
>> overzealous session of sealant application, I used a bit too much and
>> the
>> sealant oozed up through the holes as I clocoed it together. In
>> retrospect, I should have clamped the trailing edge very well to squeeze
>> out the excess sealant or went back after inserting clecoes, remove each
>> one and wipe it clean.
>>
>> I, however, did not do this. Now I have this epoxy stuff on my trailing
>> edge skings. Let me tell you, this stuff is not going anywhere! I even
>> tried using a little aluminum brissled scuffing brush. The brush did a
>> helluva job removing alcad but none of the sealant. I figure I can
>> probably take my die grinder and Scotch Bright wheel to it but I a bit
>> concerned with the thickness (or lack thereof) of the skin. Also, the
>> Scotch Bright wheel/pad will not get into the dimpled holes.
>>
>> I also tried using my deburring bit I got from Cleaveland. This worked
>> well to get rid of the heavy build-up of sealeant, but in the dimples
>> where the sealant is hardened on one side of the dimple, the deburring
>> tool seeems to like the each away at the metal but not at the sealant.
>>
>> Ok listers, any ideas?
>>
>> Jamie
>> RV-7A Rudder
>>
>>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | RE: RV 10 Tail cone top skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
Mr. Bowhay;
Why do I get this feeling that your "10" will have a set of floats???!!!
Bruce Breckenridge
40018
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Safety Concern |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
do you have a picture? where can you get the axe?
On Mar 9, 2004, at 8:54 AM, Dwpetrus@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
>
> I strongly agree and I carry the mini backpack axe made by Gerber. It
> has a
> composite handle and is a compact and light extraction tool. I have
> the pouch
> rivited to the lower panel and the axe fits perfectly.
>
> Wayne Petrus
> RV8A
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 14
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| Subject: | Weatherstrip Adhesive |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Wiegenstein" <N727JW@hellerwiegenstein.com>
Just finishing up those last details, and I'm having trouble getting the
weatherstrip in front of the canopy on my -6 tipup to stay in place. I've
tried 3M 8008 weatherstrip adhesive, and also Permatex weatherstrip cement,
but the problem with both is that while they stick well to the metal
structure, they don't adhere well to the rubber. I've cleaned the rubber
before use with AcryliClean, to make sure there's no residue, etc. but still
no luck.
Any recommendations on an adehsive that works, or a better technique? TIA -
John H. Wiegenstein
Hansville, WA
RV-6 #23961 - N727JW (reserved)
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Weatherstrip Adhesive |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I would bond in place with a silicone that is made specifically for bonding
rubber. If that does not work use a silicone primer such as:
DOW CORNING 1200 RTV PRIME COAT/CLEAR
This stuff makes a big difference.
At 08:02 AM 3/9/04 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Wiegenstein"
><N727JW@hellerwiegenstein.com>
>
>Just finishing up those last details, and I'm having trouble getting the
>weatherstrip in front of the canopy on my -6 tipup to stay in place. I've
>tried 3M 8008 weatherstrip adhesive, and also Permatex weatherstrip cement,
>but the problem with both is that while they stick well to the metal
>structure, they don't adhere well to the rubber. I've cleaned the rubber
>before use with AcryliClean, to make sure there's no residue, etc. but still
>no luck.
>
>Any recommendations on an adehsive that works, or a better technique? TIA -
>
>John H. Wiegenstein
>Hansville, WA
>RV-6 #23961 - N727JW (reserved)
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: intersection fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Imfairings@aol.com
Dave,
Mine split on the wheel pant line and are glassed to the wheel pant.
Bob
Fairings-Etc
www.fairings-etc.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Aluminum MT Propeller group buy |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
I am just starting a group buy for the aluminum 2 blade MT Propeller for the
Lycoming 360 engine.
I need to have 16 firm orders, so I can place one order for the group.
I am also accepting the names from people that would be interested in a
future group buy.
This is the NEW aluminum 2 blade MT Propeller that does NOT have a midrange
RPM restriction on the Lycoming 360 engine.
The propeller for this group buy is the MTV-15-C/183-402 propeller including
spinner.
The group buy price is $5,350 completely assembled in Southern California
(eliminating $610 to $760 in customer shipping and assembly costs).
Shipping the assembled propeller to the individual customer would be extra.
Typically less than $150 shipped UPS Ground when sent to Florida or
Washington State.
Please respond off list to lessdragcom@aol.com
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
lessdragcom@aol.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Wing Attach Questions... |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
Howdy...
Just a few wing attach questions for the guys in the know. Im finally putting
the wings on for the final time at the airport and have come accross some questions.
1. Some bolts for the gear leg can go in forward and some cant...I assume that
it is ok to put the nut on the forward side? Vans said: "Do what it takes"
2. What are the torque specs for the two large close tolerance bolts/nuts. I
cant find them on the plans and not sure if they are any different than the normal
nuts.
3. Washers: I have been putting one on the nut side and none on the bolt head
side to keep a few threads showing past the nut.
4. Min threads past the nut: 1/2/3??
Thanks...
Kurt Klewin
RV6A finishing...OKC
Do Not Archive
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | AirVenture Cup Race |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
Anyone planning to enter this year's race? The route has changed ... race is
from Dayton to Oshkosh.
Airventure Race 2004
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
214 hrs
Message 20
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| Subject: | [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Rob Ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV3 pictures...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@yahoo.com.03.09.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wing Attach Questions... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
1) Putting the nut on the forward side makes it much easier to tighten the
nut... I recommend it.
2) I don't have my torque table in front of me... Sorry.
3) Use however many washers you need (up to 3). You want to have at least
one under the nut.
4) Per my DAR you need at least one thread beyond the nut. You should be
able to catch a fingernail.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV6AOKC@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Attach Questions...
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
>
> Howdy...
>
> Just a few wing attach questions for the guys in the know. Im finally
putting the wings on for the final time at the airport and have come accross
some questions.
>
> 1. Some bolts for the gear leg can go in forward and some cant...I assume
that it is ok to put the nut on the forward side? Vans said: "Do what it
takes"
>
> 2. What are the torque specs for the two large close tolerance
bolts/nuts. I cant find them on the plans and not sure if they are any
different than the normal nuts.
>
> 3. Washers: I have been putting one on the nut side and none on the bolt
head side to keep a few threads showing past the nut.
>
> 4. Min threads past the nut: 1/2/3??
>
> Thanks...
>
> Kurt Klewin
> RV6A finishing...OKC
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | RE: Leeward Air Ranch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Esten Spears" <ewspears@comcast.net>
Chuck,
Leeward Air Ranch is just SE of Ocala, Florida. It is truly RV Heaven. 6250'
X 200' Allweather Turf that's as smooth as a pool table. There have been 30
RV's born at Leeward Air Ranch. just over a hundred residents and over half of
them are either homebuilders or Warbird/Antique Restorers. We have all jigs,
special tools, fixtures, and expertise right here on the airranch to handle most
any aircraft related project.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
Time: 10:29:34 AM PST US
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Esten,
What state is this Air Park located in? (might consider retiring
there).
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Esten Spears <ewspears@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch
> --> RV-List message posted by: ewspears@comcast.net (Esten Spears)
>
> You are invited to view a Photo Album from Esten Spears.
>
> Hope you like the RV8/P51 formation shots. It was a real handful for the
RV Pilots since the 25 knot gusts and turbulence pushed them around a lot
more than the P51.
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Leeward Air Ranch |
Seal-Send-Time: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 13:51:02 -0500
--> RV-List message posted by: "JW MILLS" <fly-me@msn.com>
Esten, where will I find your photo album?? Pictures from last Sat's get together??
Started out in my Citabria but my ground speed was 50 mph at 1500 feet.
It would have been a major X-country. I have a six ready to assy and paint.
Sorry I missed out.
JW
----- Original Message -----
From: Esten Spears<mailto:ewspears@comcast.net>
To: rv-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 1:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Leeward Air Ranch
--> RV-List message posted by: "Esten Spears" <ewspears@comcast.net<mailto:ewspears@comcast.net>>
Chuck,
Leeward Air Ranch is just SE of Ocala, Florida. It is truly RV Heaven. 6250'
X 200' Allweather Turf that's as smooth as a pool table. There have been 30
RV's born at Leeward Air Ranch. just over a hundred residents and over half
of them are either homebuilders or Warbird/Antique Restorers. We have all jigs,
special tools, fixtures, and expertise right here on the airranch to handle
most any aircraft related project.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
Time: 10:29:34 AM PST US
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com<mailto:crabaut@coalinga.com>>
Subject: Re: RV-List: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com<mailto:crabaut@coalinga.com>>
Esten,
What state is this Air Park located in? (might consider retiring
there).
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Esten Spears <ewspears@comcast.net<mailto:ewspears@comcast.net>>
Subject: RV-List: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch
> --> RV-List message posted by: ewspears@comcast.net<mailto:ewspears@comcast.net> (Esten Spears)
>
> You are invited to view a Photo Album from Esten Spears.
>
> Hope you like the RV8/P51 formation shots. It was a real handful for the
RV Pilots since the 25 knot gusts and turbulence pushed them around a lot
more than the P51.
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ronschreck99@aol.com
My question is what to use for a backer board. I have some Luan, but it is
heavy. I'm hoping the list can provide some other ideas for a rigid, light
backer board.
Don,
Use the corregated plastic they use for all those unsightly signs that people
stick all over the roadways. (Lose 20 pounds in one week; Earn $$$ at home on
your computer; We buy homes for cash!; etc) The plastic is light, water
resistant, bonds easily to fabric or leather and you will be doing the environment
a favor by removing the signs from the roadway. Signs posted on telephone
poles and on the public right-of-way are illegal and you can remove them with
impunity. Have at it!
Ron Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill, NC
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Weatherstrip Adhesive |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
I had good luck with 3M 8008 Weather-strip adhesive, but only after
carefully preparing the surfaces. For the rubber weather-strip, I wiped the
bonding surface with acetone, scrubbed with (grey) Scotchbrite and wiped
with acetone, again. The rubber gasket on my -4 canopy has been on for
about 2 years and still seems well-bonded.
Good luck,
Dean
>From: "John Wiegenstein" <N727JW@hellerwiegenstein.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Weatherstrip Adhesive
>Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 08:02:12 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Wiegenstein"
><N727JW@hellerwiegenstein.com>
>
>Just finishing up those last details, and I'm having trouble getting the
>weatherstrip in front of the canopy on my -6 tipup to stay in place. I've
>tried 3M 8008 weatherstrip adhesive, and also Permatex weatherstrip cement,
>but the problem with both is that while they stick well to the metal
>structure, they don't adhere well to the rubber. I've cleaned the rubber
>before use with AcryliClean, to make sure there's no residue, etc. but
>still
>no luck.
>
>Any recommendations on an adehsive that works, or a better technique? TIA
>-
>
>John H. Wiegenstein
>Hansville, WA
>RV-6 #23961 - N727JW (reserved)
>
>
Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee when you click here.
Message 26
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|
"'pilots2@yahoo.com'" <pilots2@yahoo.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Hey Bilinski,
your 21 years got stolen right out of my hangar by some guy named Reuven
Silberman?
pilots2@yahoo.com
ain't life a bitch
Message 27
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
Time: 06:34:36 PM PST US
From: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
rv-list <rv-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: prop governor
Check with your prop/governer rebuilder. I have purchased many cheap (200/300$)
governers and had them reconfigured for my application by
the prop shop. There are interchangable bleed and bypass orfices, check valves,
counter weights that can be matched for your application.
In my case, I told my rebuilder that I have a certain model Hart$ell prop with
a lycoming 260hp 0-540. He matched up the innerds of the
governer, verivied all bearings and declaired it airworthy and it workes fine.
I got a Pesto brand, which is the same as a Woodward (or
Garwin) in that Woodward purchased the rights from Pesto and Garwin and others
for manufacture under the Woodward name.....most of the
internal parts are interchangable, reversable and seldom wear out in that they
are bathed in oil all the time.
Locate some used rebuildable cores, verify the model number with a rebuilder and
your engine/prop application to see if the core is
useable in you specific circumstance. Found my cores on Barnstormers and E-bay,
Mikes Pro-Prop in Pennsylvania rebuilt them for me. If
memory serves, I paid about 225 for a core and another 195 dollars for the rebuild.
(Not a FAA/PMA/TSO/Certified Yellow taged/Certified
Paper trail/taged item....the governer had a repair tag only from the rebuilder).
In my case and application it worked out great to get a
working, calabrated and useable governer for about 400 dollars total..
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
How would I know which prop governor (woodward, hartzell, et all) would
work on a RV with a IO-360 A1B so I don't accidentaly get a feathering
governor or one that goes to fine pitch or one that goes to course pitch
on oil loss, etc.........
Is there a reference list for governors somewhere ???
Thanks
Gert
Message 28
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Which one is he? Oh yea, the goof ball in front of Steve. Ok he has it for
one month then he is on my list!!
http://www.sdccd.net/public/events/we/Online/May2003/flyboys.jpg
At 12:30 PM 3/9/04 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>Hey Bilinski,
>
>your 21 years got stolen right out of my hangar by some guy named Reuven
>Silberman?
>
>pilots2@yahoo.com
>
>ain't life a bitch
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Used Monroy ATD-200 anti collision units. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Gang, would anyone be interested in buying used Monroy ATD-200 anti
collision units? Several months ago the Beech list (sold the Bonanza to
finish the RV but still on the list) organized a group purchase along with
Piper list. They got a good deal on the new ATD-300 so there are a lot of
200s privately for sale. One guy said he wanted to buy a 200 back, as he
liked it better than the 300. I bought one today for $225, the retail was
somewhere around $650. They have gone for as high as $350 but there are
enough sellers at the cheaper prices to lower those lofty figures.
I am still receiving responses to my Beechlist post. If anyone is
interested, get hold of me offline. If I can swing a couple for $225, I'll
just put you in touch with the seller. No, I'm not the middle man.
This offer will only be good for a couple days, as I'm sure I started a
selling frenzy on the web, so let me know.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Learn how to help protect your privacy and prevent fraud online at Tech
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: >Re:Wing Attach Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
With a Nyloc nut you should have at least one thread through the nut(As
previously stated,be able to catch your fingernail on it). You must not have more
than four threads showing(The nut will be bottomed on the threads).
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | BNC fuel tank bulkhead fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Mckenna" <mmckenna@bellsouth.net>
Mike,
Sorry to here about this. Glad you have solved the problem.
When you get a chance would you please send me a few of the air to air
photo's Mitchell took on the Kentucky trip?
Thanks,
Mike Mckenna
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stewart, Michael
(ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RV-List: BNC fuel tank bulkhead fittings
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
Thought I would provide the list with some recent challenges and finding
of the capacitive sending units from Vans, and more specifically, issues
surrounding the in tank, inboard rib , bulkhead fitting.
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Aligning gear leg fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
If you flew your airplane without gear leg fairings and it flew straight--without
needing rudder trim, then you "aligned" and strapped on leg fairings and now
you need right rudder all of a sudden, which way would you turn the trailing
edge of the fairings, from the pilots perspective? (Of course I'm asking this
for a friend--yea thats it)
Dave Ford
RV6
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Parashak <pavel_gaijin@yahoo.com>
I notice that it was placarded for non-aerobatics only. Why would that be?
Is it something common in RV-3s that I should have known about?
Regards,
Paul
RV-7 or 8 preview plans stage
On 3/9/04 09:44, "Email List Photo Shares" <pictures@matronics.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares
> <pictures@matronics.com>
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Rob Ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Subject: RV3 pictures...
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@yahoo.com.03.09.2004/index.html
>
>
> o Main Photo Share Index
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
> o Submitting a Photo Share
>
> If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
> following information along with your email message and files:
>
> 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
> 2) Your Full Name:
> 3) Your Email Address:
> 4) One line Subject description:
> 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
> 6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
>
> Email the information above and your files and photos to:
>
> pictures@matronics.com
>
>
>
>
>
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aligning gear leg fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
They would turn just like the wheels of a car. If you want them to turn
right (so you won't have to hold the rudder) turn them to the right (trailing edge
to the left). That's a lot of reversals!
Dan RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 3/9/04 9:00:55 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
dford@michweb.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
>
> If you flew your airplane without gear leg fairings and it flew
> straight--without needing rudder trim, then you "aligned" and strapped on leg
fairings
> and now you need right rudder all of a sudden, which way would you turn the
> trailing edge of the fairings, from the pilots perspective? (Of course I'm
> asking this for a friend--yea thats it)
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
I am going to do mine, too. I made panels of 1/2 inch foil backed foam and
have cut material, thin cloth (light wt) and was not planning any "backer
board". Do I need it?
hal
At 09:26 AM 3/8/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
>Dear All,
>
>I am sprucing up the interior of my RV. One of the things I'm attempting to
>do is make it warmer and quieter for my wife.
>
>To that end I have some leather for upholstery, and some foil backed. 3/8
>inch foam. I plan to make a sandwich with the leather, foam, and a backer
>board.
>
>My question is what to use for a backer board. I have some Luan, but it is
>heavy. I'm hoping the list can provide some other ideas for a rigid, light
>backer board.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Don Mei
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wing Attach Questions... |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Bolt can go in either way. With the 6A some *MUST* go in facing opposite
of convention as I recall. In any case, convention is nut aft if there are
no other restrictions.
Washer under nut, usually, since the turning nut would otherwise scratch
the member. Washer under bolt head if turning the bolt to tighten. No
black magic, just protect the expensive part from being scored and
scratched with a cheap washer.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 37
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Just received a Dynon EFIS D-10 (shielded) harness, ALTRAK Altitude Hold Auto-Pilot
harness and Trio Avionics EZ Pilot (wing-leveler auto-pilot) harness from
SteinAir today. The quality is OUTSTANDING!!!! And to top it off... the prices
for the harnesses were less than what it would have cost me in material alone,
not to mention the time and aggravation to wire them myself.... I'm somewhat
"electronically challenged".
I highly recommend anyone needing a harness for your Dynon, ALTRAK, or EZ Pilot contact Stein. I could have wired these harnesses myself..... but why?. At the prices he charges and quality of the harnesses... I am $$$ and time ahead by ordering them from SteinAir (www.steinair.com).
The customer support is the best I have ever experienced. Stein actually made
all my harnesses and shipped them out within 24 hours of placing the order.
(Dynon harness was on the shelf... but the ALTRAK and EZ Pilot harnesses were
built within hours of my order and shipped the very next day!)
SteinAir is now offering Toggle Switch Covers in a variety of colors (black, red,
white, yellow and green). They really dress of the panel and make identifying
toggle switches easier than reading placards and labels. Again, the price
is right. The covers are listed on the website under SWITCHES.
I can't say enough good things about SteinAir. The service/customer support is
superb and the harnesses are AWESOME!!!! Very professional. Stein is also a
fellow RV builder/owner (repeat offender with 2 RV-6s) and I think we should
all support these guys every chance we get.
Sorry to rant.... I just had to publically show my appreciation to a guy in this
business who deserves some KUDOS for a job well done.
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A wiring (seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.... Thanks Stein!)
NOTE: I am not affiliated with SteinAir. Just a very satisfied customer.
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| Subject: | RV3/4 Round cowl inlet size |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Hi Listers,
I'm considering using round cowl inlets and an aluminum plenum on my RV3 with an
0320. Does anyone know the proper dia. of a round inlet and how this compares
to the size/area of Van's std oblong inlet.
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson
RV3 engine baffling
Boise, ID
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