Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:09 AM - Re: Gretz trim servo travel (Charles Becker)
2. 04:13 AM - Prop Governor Dimension (Ronschreck99@aol.com)
3. 04:56 AM - Re: N8WV Upgrades... (linn walters)
4. 07:01 AM - F6111 (Bobby Hester)
5. 07:53 AM - e: EL Panel/Glareshield Lighting (Fred Stucklen)
6. 08:09 AM - Re: Non-RV related Hanger related (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
7. 08:09 AM - Dallas Ft. Worth area (Alex Peterson)
8. 08:22 AM - Re: Non-RV related Hanger related (Charlie & Tupper England)
9. 02:38 PM - Request: Information for Kitplanes Article (Interiors/Exteriors) (Cory Emberson)
10. 02:43 PM - Re: F6111 (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
11. 02:49 PM - Re: Non-RV related Hanger related (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
12. 03:52 PM - Re: Carson City Fly-in (BRUCE GRAY)
13. 05:52 PM - RV-4 N504RV Flew today (David Aronson)
14. 06:26 PM - (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
15. 06:27 PM - Re: Non-RV related Hanger related (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
16. 06:29 PM - Re: F6111 (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
17. 06:45 PM - Re: Carson City Fly-in (kempthornes)
18. 06:45 PM - Re: F6111 (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
19. 07:10 PM - Re: RV-4 N504RV Flew today (Karie Daniel)
20. 07:18 PM - Re: RV-4 N504RV Flew today (Charles Rowbotham)
21. 07:43 PM - F6111 (RGray67968@aol.com)
22. 09:05 PM - Re: Dave Anders phone number (RV6 Flyer)
23. 09:34 PM - Re: Request: Information for Kitplanes Article (Interiors/Exteriors) (Shemp)
Message 1
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Subject: | Gretz trim servo travel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Becker" <ctbecker@charter.net>
I agree with an earlier post. I think that you are applying the elevator up
and down requirements to the trim tab.
Charles Becker
N464CB RV8A(e)
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jakent@unison.ie
Subject: RV-List: Gretz trim servo travel
--> RV-List message posted by: jakent@unison.ie
The trim tab horn is shorter for the electric trim. Remember the servo only
has 1.2 inch travel and the cable travels more than this with the manual
trim.
If, as in my case, changing he horn is too much metal butchery, then do as
I did and instal a ratio arm (lever) between the servo and cable end. On my
RV-4 it let me get full tab travel and also let me reverse the direction of
the servo to make a neater installation. Just do the maths for the correct
lever ratios. John Kent (Ireland)
Message 2
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Subject: | Prop Governor Dimension |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ronschreck99@aol.com
Listers,
I have an old style Hartzell governor which measures seven and a half inches
from the mounting flange face to the rear of the unit. I have not mounted my
IO-360B1E on my RV-8 yet, so I can't accurately measure the firewall
clearance. Can someone tell me what the clearance is from the governor mounting
flange
to the firewall and I would be interested to know the size of some other
governors. I may be able to make a swap for a different model or brand if this
one won't fit.
Thanks.
Ron Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill, NC
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: N8WV Upgrades... |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Greg Milner wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Milner" <tldrgred@execpc.com>
>
>Bill,
>
>I`m running 125hp and was using a Sterba 68x68. Bought a 68x66 from a guy
>with a -3 and performance was same, (1900 static rpm and 170mph at
>2700rpm.). Sent the 68x66 to Sterba and requested 2200 static and no speed
>loss on top end. I got it back and it`s 68x62 now and my tach reads 2050
>static. Used a friends tach checker and found it`s realy turning 2250rpm
>static (perfect). I still cruise at about 160mph @ 2500rpm. Sterba got the
>prop baqck in a couple weeks and didn`t charge anything. Good man to work
>with. My tach is accurate at 2500rpm but I don`t trust it anymore. What
>would you do with it?
>
>Red Milner
>RV-4 79KM
>based @ UES
>
One of the things I do when balancing a prop is to note the tach
difference Vs. the infrared pickup on the balancer. All the mechanical
tachs are off by at least 100 RPM ..... it changes with RPM ..... and
some as high as 200 RPM. The major balancing is done around 2200 with a
check at full throttle when done. As to 'what to do with it'? Well,
nothing. You know it's off, and if you're a purist .... do the math and
compensate. If you want to go fast .... and it appears that you do
...... put the pedal to the metal and haul butt. Don't worry too much
about the 'damage' that you'll do with a little overspeed ..... you'll
never know it in the long run ..... there are a lot more things that
will reduce the TBO than that. IMHO, of course.
Linn
do not archive
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Ok, I ready to install the F6111L & R, those little pcs. that go above
the baggage area on the top skin sides for the sliding canopy. I guess
they need to be cut off to fit. How much? Top and bottom or only top or
bottom? I seem to remember someone saying how much they had to cut.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 5
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Subject: | e: EL Panel/Glareshield Lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
Fred Stucklen
Rich,
But you are not competing with the cost... $89 instead of $18.00 for
essentially the same product...
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 155 Hrs
Don,
We sell EL Lighting with inverters. NO one has complained about
noise
from our systems to this date. They are designed for low power
and low
electromatic radiation. The lights can easily be dimmed as well
by varying
the DC to the inverter from the +12V.
GOOD LUCK with your project!
Rich
www.aircraftextras.com
Message 6
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|
Subject: | Re: Non-RV related Hanger related |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
You can get 40 acre's in Holmes Co., Ohio for about $40,000 but you may have
to sell the timber first! I am in one of the lowest priced areas of the
nation for housing but the weather stinks.
Tom in Ohio (Do not archive)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Non-RV related Hanger related
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
<retasker@optonline.net>
>
> Don't complain. Around here (NW NJ) 40 acres would cost well over $1M.
>
> Dick Tasker
>
>
> Larry G RV-7 N697RV wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Larry G RV-7 N697RV
<edge540t@direcway.com>
> >
> >Up here 40 acres would cost between 100,000 to
> >120,000 Rochester Mn area.
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Non-RV related Hanger related
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >>
> >>I'm moving "away" from big government...
> >>
> >>-buying into a 40 acre, 1800' dirt strip
$25,000
> >>-one 40' x 60' concrete slab (self pour/level ?) $ 2,300
> >>-one 40' x 60' arch style hanger (blew away once
> >> during
construction)
> >>$6,900
> >>-lots of work (no marketable value) $
> >>0
> >>-tons of other odds & ends (electrical, plumbing, etc) $3,000
> >>-------------------------------------------------
> >> ----------------
> >>-having your own private dirt strip
> >>"priceless"
> >>
> >>do not archive
> >>
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
> >>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Non-RV related Hanger related
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
> >>>
> >>>Jason Sneed wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
> >>>>
> >>>>I am thinking about buying a 3000 square foot hanger and I was
> >>>>wondering if you guys that know something about metal buildings could
> >>>>give me a price per square foot for metal buildings. It has the more
> >>>>expensive electric folding door. I am just looking for an estimate. It
> >>>>is built on concrete and has a slab in front of the hanger also.
> >>>>
> >>>>Thanks
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Jason Sneed
> >>>>RV-6 (may be getting a new home)
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>I'm building a new house and workshop. The workshop is 30X80, 40'
> >>>electric bifold door and insulation. Cost is 23,480 or about $9.78/sq
> >>>foot ...... not including slab!
> >>>Linn
> >>>do not archive
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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|
Subject: | Dallas Ft. Worth area |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
A friend of mine is contemplating going to the north TX area to look at
a completed RV which is for sale. He is not a builder, and would like
to know if there is an experienced builder in the area who would be
willing and able to look the plane over with him.
Please reply off line to alexpeterson@earthlink.net.
Thanks!
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 443 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
do not archive
Message 8
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|
Subject: | Re: Non-RV related Hanger related |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
>>>
>>>Jason Sneed wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>>>>
>>>>I am thinking about buying a 3000 square foot hanger and I was
>>>>wondering if you guys that know something about metal buildings could
>>>>give me a price per square foot for metal buildings. It has the more
>>>>expensive electric folding door. I am just looking for an estimate. It
>>>>is built on concrete and has a slab in front of the hanger also.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Jason Sneed
>>>>RV-6 (may be getting a new home)
>>>>
Nine of the eleven hangars here at Slobovia Outernational (in
Mississippi) are 'chicken houses' erected by a guy who stays very busy
building...chicken houses. Shop-built (engineered, of course) trusses
with 2X6 purlins & Galvalume metal roofing. The builder expects a
reasonably level surface. He comes out one day & shoots leveled spots
for & pours the foundation pads for the trusses. The next day they start
erecting the trusses & within 3 or 4 days you have a shed to park
under. I believe that the current price is about $2.25-$2.50 per sq ft,
parts & labor. Add the cost of slab, door, walls, etc to that. Painted
Galvalume metal for walls runs around 60 cents per sq ft.
The various owners here have researched almost every possible idea for
hangar construction, & this is by far the cheapest in this area. One
advantage is that if money is tight, you can protect the plane for very
little initial cash outlay. Another advantage if you have unstable soil
(we do) is that you can park planes, vehicles, tractors, etc under the
shed for months to pack the soil hard before actually pouring the slab.
If you are willing to do it all yourself & just need an RV sized hangar
(30' span), drop me a line for a way to do it even cheaper that that.
Charlie
Message 9
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Subject: | Request: Information for Kitplanes Article (Interiors/Exteriors) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cory Emberson" <bootless@earthlink.net>
Hello!
I am writing an article for Kitplanes magazine that will feature builders who have
distinctive interiors and/or exteriors.
My deadline is rather short, so if you could email me as soon as possible, hopefully
by Tuesday, that will give me enough time to put it together.
Here are some of the criteria I'm looking for:
Interiors that are (one or any combination):
1. creative
2. inexpensive
3. very comfortable
4. lightweight
5. generally cool and different
6. distinctive in some way.
Exteriors that are:
1.. stunningly attractive
2.. original design
3.. historically accurate
4.. distinctive in some way
Other things to keep in mind:
1. How you came to design your interior/exterior (How you got your idea)
2. The reasons why you did it as you did
3. What benefits you had in mind
4. Any unexpected benefits (and/or pitfalls) there were
5. What you learned
6. How many hours you've flown with it (if completed)
7. How much of the work did you do yourself?
8. Did you have any professional assistance? How much?
9. The equipment and tools you used
10. How much time it took to build and install
11. The cost of building it.
12. Would you do it again the same way? Why?
Here are the photo requirements for Kitplanes: Photos must be 300 dpi at a size
large enough to use in the magazine, which is usually at least 3 x 3 inches.
If an image is 300 dpi at 1 x 1 inch, it won't be big enough to do any good. Hard
copy photos are good, too.
Thanks so much - I really appreciate your help!
best regards,
Cory Emberson
Hayward, CA [KHWD]
510.599.4409
cory@lightspeededit.com
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Bobby,
If your F6111 pieces are the same as mine, cut off the top at 1 3/8 inch
(measured along a "centerline" running through the tooling holes) above the
tooling holes. Don't cut yet! They should be cut at about a 30 degree angle with
the bottom sides being longer than the top sides. That's 30 degrees from just
whacking it off at 90 degrees. You will angle back the flanges to fit flush
to the bulkhead as you trim it to fit. Draw vertical lines 1/4 inch inboard of
the center of the corner holes that hold the corrugated baggage plate in
place. The tooling holes end up just in front of this line (about 5/8 inch).
If
I had done mine that way it would look great. I cut off too much! That's
easy to do. It would be better to cut long to begin with to be sure what I said
will work for you. There has to be a twist in them to fit the skin. But this
information should help. Once the top is done, incrementally trim the bottom
until the center line of the flange lies under the holes in the skin and the
bottom just almost touches the longeron. I think 1/16 inch from the longeron
looks good.
This information is as I measured it on my airplane.
Hope this helps you get a good fit.
Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
> Ok, I ready to install the F6111L &R, those little pcs. that go above
> the baggage area on the top skin sides for the sliding canopy. I guess
> they need to be cut off to fit. How much? Top and bottom or only top or
> bottom? I seem to remember someone saying how much they had to cut.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
Message 11
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|
Subject: | Re: Non-RV related Hanger related |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Cy,
I live in the middle of Indiana about that distance from Chicago. Where is
your strip. If its close maybe I can give up on mine!
Dan (Walton, IN)
In a message dated 3/13/04 10:44:20 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
pa201950@yahoo.com writes:
> Only bad thing about this setup is
> that the strip is only 1,100 ft. long and it is 160
> miles from where I live. The good thing is that I have
> an RV-6 that can get there in an hour,land and take
> off from this short strip,and if it is a nice day I
> can taxi up in the yard of the farm house so my RV is
> about 30 ft. from the door. Can you imagine being
> downtown Chicago fighting the traffic and in a couple
> of hours being out in the middle of nowhere sitting on
> the front porch smoking a cigar and looking at your RV
> sitting on your own grass strip!!
>
> --- Cy Galley <cgalley@QCBC.ORG> wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley"
> ><cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
Message 12
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|
Subject: | Re: Carson City Fly-in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
The dates are Apr. 30th through May 2nd. The 30th is set up for early
arrivals. You can find more info. on vansaircraft.com under FLY-IN SCHEDULE.
That will forward you to the host sight. Thanks for the interest and hope
you and some others can make it. Bruce
>From: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Carson City Fly-in
>Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 16:18:38 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
>This Carson City --- Nevada? When?
>
>hal
>
>
Find things fast with the new MSN Toolbar includes FREE pop-up blocking!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
Message 13
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|
Subject: | RV-4 N504RV Flew today |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Hey listers:
Thanks to many of you who support and are active on the RV-List, My RV-4, N504RV
flew from Nut Tree Airport today. First flight, 40 minutes, to 9,000 feet,
ended with ground observing smoke and a leaky gasket to the prop gov. Otherwise,
COOOOOL!
This is Van's #1305, began in 1984 by Ret Col Don Disbrow (diseased). After 7
years of love and pain, it flies. A great feeling and a debt to you all on the
list. Also Van's, who always had a rough idea of what my problems where but
a solution just the same. Mike Seager was a big help in getting me ready for
the first flight and all the help from the local Hanger bums at the Nut Tree.
My wife Ronni and kids Casey and Kelly, yes your dad is still alive and now will
be home a bit more. A great bunch of people and a life-time high!
Dave Aronson
RV-4 N504RV
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Bobby,
If your F6111 pieces are the same as mine, cut off the top at 1 3/8 inch
(measured along a "centerline" running through the tooling holes) above the
tooling holes.=A0 Don't cut yet!=A0 They should be cut at about a 30 degree=20angle
with
the bottom sides being longer than the top sides.=A0 That's 30 degrees from=20just
whacking it off at 90 degrees.=A0 You will angle back the flanges to fit flush
to the bulkhead as you trim it to fit.=A0 Draw vertical lines 1/4 inch inboard
of
the center of the corner holes that hold the corrugated baggage plate in
place.=A0 The tooling holes end up just in front of this line (about 5/8 inch).=A0
If
I had done mine that way it would look great.=A0 I cut off too much!=A0 That's
easy to do.=A0 It would be better to cut long to begin with to be sure what=20I
said
will work for you.=A0 There has to be a twist in them to fit the skin.=A0 But this
information should help.=A0 Once the top is done, incrementally trim the bottom
until the center line of the flange lies under the holes in the skin and the
bottom just almost touches the longeron.=A0 I think 1/16 inch from the longeron
looks good.
This information is as I measured it on my airplane.
Hope this helps you get a good fit.
Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
> Ok, I ready to install the F6111L &R, those little pcs. that go above
> the baggage area on the top skin sides for the sliding canopy. I guess
> they need to be cut off to fit. How much? Top and bottom or only top or
> bottom? I seem to remember someone saying how much they had to cut.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
Message 15
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|
Subject: | Re: Non-RV related Hanger related |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Cy,
I live in the middle of Indiana about that distance from Chicago.=A0 Where is
your strip.=A0 If its close maybe I can give up on mine!
Dan (Walton, IN)
In a message dated 3/13/04 10:44:20 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
pa201950@yahoo.com writes:
> Only bad thing about this setup is
> that the strip is only 1,100 ft. long and it is 160
> miles from where I live. The good thing is that I have
> an RV-6 that can get there in an hour,land and take
> off from this short strip,and if it is a nice day I
> can taxi up in the yard of the farm house so my RV is
> about 30 ft. from the door. Can you imagine being
> downtown Chicago fighting the traffic and in a couple
> of hours being out in the middle of nowhere sitting on
> the front porch smoking a cigar and looking at your RV
> sitting on your own grass strip!!
>
> --- Cy Galley <cgalley@QCBC.ORG> wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley"
> ><cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
Message 16
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Bobby,
If your F6111 pieces are the same as mine, cut off the top at 1 3/8 inch
(measured along a "centerline" running through the tooling holes) above the
tooling holes.=A0 Don't cut yet!=A0 They should be cut at about a 30 degree=20angle
with
the bottom sides being longer than the top sides.=A0 That's 30 degrees from=20just
whacking it off at 90 degrees.=A0 You will angle back the flanges to fit flush
to the bulkhead as you trim it to fit.=A0 Draw vertical lines 1/4 inch inboard
of
the center of the corner holes that hold the corrugated baggage plate in
place.=A0 The tooling holes end up just in front of this line (about 5/8 inch).=A0
If
I had done mine that way it would look great.=A0 I cut off too much!=A0 That's
easy to do.=A0 It would be better to cut long to begin with to be sure what=20I
said
will work for you.=A0 There has to be a twist in them to fit the skin.=A0 But this
information should help.=A0 Once the top is done, incrementally trim the bottom
until the center line of the flange lies under the holes in the skin and the
bottom just almost touches the longeron.=A0 I think 1/16 inch from the longeron
looks good.
This information is as I measured it on my airplane.
Hope this helps you get a good fit.
Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
> Ok, I ready to install the F6111L &R, those little pcs. that go above
> the baggage area on the top skin sides for the sliding canopy. I guess
> they need to be cut off to fit. How much? Top and bottom or only top or
> bottom? I seem to remember someone saying how much they had to cut.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Carson City Fly-in |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 03:51 PM 3/13/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
>
>The dates are Apr. 30th through May 2nd. The 30th is set up for early
>arrivals. You can find more info. on vansaircraft.com under FLY-IN SCHEDULE.
>That will forward you to the host sight. Thanks for the interest and hope
>you and some others can make it. Bruce
Thanks for the invite, Bruce!
I did the linking and jumping and found that indeed, the fly in is at
CARSON CITY , NEVADA. (Not carson city, NY.)
It has so far been a somewhat secretive event so it must really be worth
attending - maybe the SR71 will fly by or the Wright Flyer or even the RV11?
hal
(This Paso Robles Zinfandel is some good wine!)
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
I'll try one more time.
Bobby,
If your F6111 pieces are the same as mine, cut off the top at 1 3/8 inch
(measured along a "centerline" running through the tooling holes) above the
tooling holes. Don't actually cut yet! The pieces should be cut at about a 30
degree angle with the bottom sides being longer than the top sides. That's 30
degrees from just cutting it off at 90 degrees. You will angle back the flanges
to fit flush to the bulkhead as you trim it to fit. Draw a vertical line on
each side 1/4 inch inboard of the center of the corner holes that hold the
corrugated baggage plate in place. The tooling holes end up just in front of this
line (about 5/8 inch). If I had done mine that way it would look great. I
cut off too much! That's easy to do. It would be better to cut long to begin
with to be sure what I said will work for you. There has to be a twist in
them to fit the skin. But this information should help. Once the top is done,
incrementally trim the bottom until the center line of the flange lies under
the holes in the skin and the bottom just almost touches the longeron. I think
1/16 inch from the longeron looks good.
This information is as I measured it on my airplane.
Hope this helps you get a good fit.
Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 3/13/04 10:01:56 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
bhester@hopkinsville.net writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
> Ok, I ready to install the F6111L &R, those little pcs. that go above
> the baggage area on the top skin sides for the sliding canopy. I guess
> they need to be cut off to fit. How much? Top and bottom or only top or
> bottom? I seem to remember someone saying how much they had to cut.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: RV-4 N504RV Flew today |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Congratulations David, post some pictures for us.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Aronson" <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 N504RV Flew today
> --> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
>
> Hey listers:
> Thanks to many of you who support and are active on the RV-List, My RV-4,
N504RV flew from Nut Tree Airport today. First flight, 40 minutes, to 9,000
feet, ended with ground observing smoke and a leaky gasket to the prop gov.
Otherwise, COOOOOL!
> This is Van's #1305, began in 1984 by Ret Col Don Disbrow (diseased).
After 7 years of love and pain, it flies. A great feeling and a debt to you
all on the list. Also Van's, who always had a rough idea of what my
problems where but a solution just the same. Mike Seager was a big help in
getting me ready for the first flight and all the help from the local Hanger
bums at the Nut Tree. My wife Ronni and kids Casey and Kelly, yes your dad
is still alive and now will be home a bit more. A great bunch of people
and a life-time high!
> Dave Aronson
> RV-4 N504RV
>
>
Message 20
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Subject: | RV-4 N504RV Flew today |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Dave,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-4 N504RV Flew today
>Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 17:51:20 -0800 (PST)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
>
>Hey listers:
>Thanks to many of you who support and are active on the RV-List, My RV-4,
>N504RV flew from Nut Tree Airport today. First flight, 40 minutes, to
>9,000 feet, ended with ground observing smoke and a leaky gasket to the
>prop gov. Otherwise, COOOOOL!
Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from bCentral.
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Bobby,
Here's what I did....NOTHING. I threw mine away. My skins are plenty stiff and
those things are just plain ugly :
). Tip came from my building mentor and friend, Mr. Paul Rosales!!
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/index.html
feel free to archive :
)
Bobby,
If your F6111 pieces are the same as mine, cut off the top at 1 3/8 inch
(measured along a "centerline" running through the tooling holes) above the
tooling holes.=A0 Don't cut yet!=A0 They should be cut at about a 30 degree=20angle
with
the bottom sides being longer than the top sides.=A0 That's 30 degrees from=20just
whacking it off at 90 degrees.=A0 You will angle back the flanges to fit flush
to the bulkhead as you trim it to fit.=A0 Draw vertical lines 1/4 inch inboard
of
the center of the corner holes that hold the corrugated baggage plate in
place.=A0 The tooling holes end up just in front of this line (about 5/8 inch).=A0
If
I had done mine that way it would look great.=A0 I cut off too much!=A0 That's
easy to do.=A0 It would be better to cut long to begin with to be sure what=20I
said
will work for you.=A0 There has to be a twist in them to fit the skin.=A0 But this
information should help.=A0 Once the top is done, incrementally trim the bottom
until the center line of the flange lies under the holes in the skin and the
bottom just almost touches the longeron.=A0 I think 1/16 inch from the longeron
looks good.
This information is as I measured it on my airplane.
Hope this helps you get a good fit.
Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
> Ok, I ready to install the F6111L &R, those little pcs. that go above
> the baggage area on the top skin sides for the sliding canopy. I guess
> they need to be cut off to fit. How much? Top and bottom or only top or
> bottom? I seem to remember someone saying how much they had to cut.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 22
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Subject: | Dave Anders phone number |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
I have the same number and it was GOOD last time I called it 3 years ago. I
have a work phone number of (559) 625-2744. May want to try that. If they
do not know them, my suggestion would be to look them up on the FAA Database
to see if they moved. I was told they were building a house at "Lake
California Air Park" (38CA). Lake California is in Northern California near
Redding.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,442 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Subject: RV-List: Dave Anders phone number
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
I was told to contact Dave Anders at 559-627-3375 for round cowl inlets by 3
different people on the list. Tried twice (carefully) and each time got the
same person who didn't know a Dave Anders. Does anyone have a different
(correct?) number?
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson
Find things fast with the new MSN Toolbar includes FREE pop-up blocking!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Request: Information for Kitplanes Article (Interiors/Exteriors) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Look at Jim Noram's Razmataz.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cory Emberson" <bootless@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Request: Information for Kitplanes Article
(Interiors/Exteriors)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Cory Emberson" <bootless@earthlink.net>
>
> Hello!
>
> I am writing an article for Kitplanes magazine that will feature builders
who have distinctive interiors and/or exteriors.
>
> My deadline is rather short, so if you could email me as soon as possible,
hopefully by Tuesday, that will give me enough time to put it together.
>
> Here are some of the criteria I'm looking for:
>
> Interiors that are (one or any combination):
>
> 1. creative
> 2. inexpensive
> 3. very comfortable
> 4. lightweight
> 5. generally cool and different
> 6. distinctive in some way.
>
> Exteriors that are:
>
> 1.. stunningly attractive
> 2.. original design
> 3.. historically accurate
> 4.. distinctive in some way
> Other things to keep in mind:
>
> 1. How you came to design your interior/exterior (How you got your idea)
> 2. The reasons why you did it as you did
> 3. What benefits you had in mind
> 4. Any unexpected benefits (and/or pitfalls) there were
> 5. What you learned
> 6. How many hours you've flown with it (if completed)
> 7. How much of the work did you do yourself?
> 8. Did you have any professional assistance? How much?
> 9. The equipment and tools you used
> 10. How much time it took to build and install
> 11. The cost of building it.
> 12. Would you do it again the same way? Why?
>
>
> Here are the photo requirements for Kitplanes: Photos must be 300 dpi at a
size large enough to use in the magazine, which is usually at least 3 x 3
inches. If an image is 300 dpi at 1 x 1 inch, it won't be big enough to do
any good. Hard copy photos are good, too.
>
> Thanks so much - I really appreciate your help!
>
> best regards,
>
> Cory Emberson
> Hayward, CA [KHWD]
> 510.599.4409
> cory@lightspeededit.com
>
>
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