Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:17 AM - Re: OSH tie-downs (Jeff Dowling)
2. 03:30 AM - Re: OSH-staying dry (Dana Overall)
3. 04:07 AM - Re: Alternator Belts (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
4. 04:13 AM - Engine monitoring (Trampas)
5. 04:17 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
6. 04:21 AM - Re: OSH tie-downs (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
7. 04:53 AM - Re: OSH tie-downs (RV6 Flyer)
8. 05:06 AM - Re: OSH tie-downs (Alex Peterson)
9. 05:30 AM - Re: Alternator Belts (Charlie Kuss)
10. 05:37 AM - Re: OT: Oshkosh bound... (T H)
11. 05:43 AM - Re: Alternator Belts (Bob U.)
12. 05:44 AM - Re: Alternator Belts (Trainnut01@aol.com)
13. 05:46 AM - Grip wires (Steve Struyk)
14. 05:55 AM - Re: OSH tie-downs (Bob U.)
15. 05:55 AM - Re: OT: Oshkosh bound... (Alex Peterson)
16. 05:58 AM - Re: Grip wires (Denis Walsh)
17. 06:00 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Cy Galley)
18. 06:03 AM - Re: OT: Oshkosh bound... (Trampas)
19. 06:08 AM - Re: Alternator Belts (Ed Anderson)
20. 06:09 AM - Re: Alternator Belts (John D. Heath)
21. 06:20 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Tedd McHenry)
22. 06:36 AM - Re: OSH tie-downs (Gary Zilik)
23. 06:54 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Scott Bilinski)
24. 06:55 AM - Re: OSH tie-downs (Trainnut01@aol.com)
25. 07:06 AM - Re: RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem (RV_8 Pilot)
26. 07:09 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
27. 07:12 AM - Re: Alternator Belts (James E. Clark)
28. 07:29 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Evan and Megan Johnson)
29. 07:33 AM - Re: RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem (Dean Pichon)
30. 07:51 AM - Compass Card... (Bill VonDane)
31. 07:59 AM - Re: RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem (Scott Bilinski)
32. 08:06 AM - stick/rudder lock (Scott Bilinski)
33. 08:14 AM - Re: Engine monitoring (Neil McLeod)
34. 08:15 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Knicholas2@aol.com)
35. 08:24 AM - Re: OT: Oshkosh bound... (LarryRobertHelming)
36. 08:30 AM - some questions from a new guy (Ken Brooks)
37. 08:52 AM - Re: RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem (Mickey Coggins)
38. 09:18 AM - Re: stick/rudder lock (John Furey)
39. 09:32 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Trainnut01@aol.com)
40. 09:36 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (lm4@juno.com)
41. 09:42 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Terry Watson)
42. 09:49 AM - iridite distributor (Bob Japundza)
43. 09:53 AM - Compass Adjusting (Scott Bilinski)
44. 10:04 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (ed)
45. 10:10 AM - Tie downs (Wheeler North)
46. 10:10 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (ed)
47. 10:12 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy ()
48. 10:20 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Tedd McHenry)
49. 10:26 AM - Re: OT: Oshkosh bound... (Alex Peterson)
50. 10:42 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (C. Rabaut)
51. 10:53 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Trainnut01@aol.com)
52. 10:59 AM - Re: OSH - what to take (kempthornes)
53. 11:04 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy ()
54. 11:12 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Mickey Coggins)
55. 11:16 AM - Re: stick/rudder lock (SportAV8R@aol.com)
56. 11:24 AM - SV: For Sale - RV-6 Almost done with a panel to die for (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
57. 11:39 AM - what does alodining do? (Jeff Cours)
58. 11:43 AM - Re: iridite distributor (Bill Dube)
59. 11:59 AM - Re: Engine monitoring (Trampas)
60. 12:08 PM - Re: iridite distributor (Tim Coldenhoff)
61. 12:12 PM - How to use Ti-Downs (Andy Karmy)
62. 12:36 PM - Re: How to use Ti-Downs (RobHickman@aol.com)
63. 12:39 PM - Re: Compass Card... (linn walters)
64. 12:53 PM - Painting (Schilling Karl)
65. 01:12 PM - Re: OSH tie-downs/how to use (R. Craig Chipley)
66. 01:53 PM - Re: Compass Adjusting (GMC)
67. 04:54 PM - Defective Flap Actuator (Geoff Evans)
68. 04:55 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Dan Checkoway)
69. 05:03 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Charlie & Tupper England)
70. 05:04 PM - Lycoming O-320 E2G For Sale (Paul Besing)
71. 05:31 PM - Difficult to drill rivets cleanly. (Rob W M Shipley)
72. 06:12 PM - Re: what does alodining do? (Gert)
73. 06:16 PM - Re: Defective Flap Actuator (Gert)
74. 06:30 PM - Re: iridite distributor (Charlie Kuss)
75. 06:57 PM - Re: what does Alodining do? (Charlie Kuss)
76. 07:17 PM - Re: Iridite distributor (Charlie Kuss)
77. 07:37 PM - Re: OSH tie-downs (Charlie & Tupper England)
78. 08:00 PM - Re: what does alodining do? (Vanremog@aol.com)
79. 08:43 PM - Re: what does alodining do? (Clayton Henderson)
80. 09:37 PM - Flop Tube - Which Tank ()
81. 10:02 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Ross Schlotthauer)
82. 10:22 PM - Re:Defective Flap Actuator (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
83. 11:48 PM - Re: Flop Tube - Which Tank (Jeff Point)
84. 11:51 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Jim Jewell)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Does anyone have horror stories about RV's blowing away in the wind?
This all seems a bit excessive.
Jeff Shemp Dowling
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
This a trick I learned many, many years ago. Go to your local Wally World
and buy 3-4 of the thinnest mil drop cloths they have in stock. They are
about 5"x3"x.5" when folded up. If it looks like rain, put all your stuff
on top of your blow up mattress (don't put a tarp under the tent as it acts
like a swimming pool), throw your disposable drop cloth over the tent and
duct tape it to the four corner posts (duct tape, include a roll in any
"survival" pack:-)..............instant insurance for a dry tent when you
return for that nice beer and brats dinner while playing with all those new
toys you just bought!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Mike,
Dayco is a good brand as far as I know. It makes sense that increasing the
area may help get rid of the heat -- a little.
Gates is sold by NAPA. That's what I used.
Dan RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 3/17/04 12:44:15 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
hollandm@pacbell.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
> Went shopping for an alternator belt today and couldn't find a local parts
> shop that carried Gates. They all sold the same brand called Dayco Top Cog.
> My question has to do with belt quality. These belts have a ribbed back.
> When I questioned the fact that less material may make them less durable, the
> response was they were more durable since the ribs made them more flexible and
> they ran cooler.
>
> What is the skinny on belt quality/durability? Is this for real or just a
> way to sell cheap belts to a naive belt buyer, like me?
>
> Thanks
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now
shipping!
It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine up
to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors
calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it.
If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
1-877-820-6590
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Eddie,
You came to the right place for answers. I bet you get offered about 10
rides in RV-8s.
I expected to finish my RV-7A (slow build) in about 2 years. Its going to be
almost 3. And I'm retired. The quick build, in my opinion, won't save you
as much time as you may think. The sheet metal work goes pretty fast with the
prepunched kits. The instrument panel, canopy, wiring, and firewall forward
is what really slowed me down. Van's says, I think, about 1600 hours to build
an 8. I have gone over 2200 on my 7A, but I'm slow.
Everyone starts with the empennage. Yes, that will at least give you a
pretty good idea of what you're up against. Tenacity is the real virtue that will
get you to the end.
I'm sure you'll get lots of opinions, this is just mine of course!
Go for it,
Dan
RV-7A (almost done!)
In a message dated 3/17/04 2:53:22 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
ed_88@hotmail.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
>
>
> After about a year of lurking and considering I am getting real closing
> to ordering an rv-8a kit. Although before I take the plunge I was hoping for
>
> a little advice.
>
> 1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area? If I join eaa, will
> the web page tell me there to go to meet other builders? From reading the
> various web builde's logs out there, it looks like knowiing others is vital
> to building a top quality kit.
>
> 2) How long should I expect to spend building a quickbuild rv-8a? I
> have built various rc models, and consider myself OK with mechanical things.
>
> However I have never worked with sheet metal or riviting before.
>
> 3) Would you consider the emp kit a good way to see if I am cut out for
> home building?
>
> 4) I've never actually flown in an rv before. I assume it makes sense
> to go to the factory and get a demo flight? Is there anything else I should
> do while I am down there?
>
>
> Sorry for the long list of questions, but I am getting real close to
> placing an order :)
> --Eddie
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Does anyone know where I can get a titanium hammer to save weight?
In a message dated 3/16/04 10:48:17 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz writes:
>
> In fact, you could probably make them a bit smaller and lighter than the
> original... it looks like (apart from stability issues) you would only
> need *one* of the official Claw's to hold an RV down. Of course, the
> limiting factor is th strength of the soil that you nail these into! But
> maybe for RVs you could get away with 6" nails?
>
> Or maybe you could make it all out of Titanium? :-)
>
> Of course, you would have to buy your own hammer ;-)
>
> Frank
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
I have been at one fly-in where a guy did NOT tie down his RV. A gust of
wind came up and blew it into another RV and they traded some paint but no
dented metal. This was ONE RV'er that I would not have wanted to be. He was
just about KICKED OUT of the RV parking area for not securing his aircraft.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,442 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: OSH tie-downs
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Does anyone have horror stories about RV's blowing away in the wind?
This all seems a bit excessive.
Jeff Shemp Dowling
Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar FREE!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> Does anyone know where I can get a titanium hammer to save weight?
>
Not titanium, but look at:
http://www.mcmaster.com/ page 2680, plastic lightweight hammer.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Mike
My personal opinion is to stay away from Dayco. As an auto mechanic, I've had
numerous instances of installing Dayco's belts, only to have to replace them for
free due to "belt squeek". I no longer will use any Dayco products. (Their
radiator hoses are flimsy) Avoid Pep Boys, Discount Auto, etc. type "off" brands.
The money saved is not worth the extra work of having to remove the cowl and
prop to change out an alternator belt sooner than absolutely necessary.
Ask your local independent auto parts store, if he can get Gates or Bando (used
by most Japanese OEMs) brand of belts. Another good brand that is less expensive
is called Pro One. I'm really impressed with the quality of this company's
products. They cost less than Gates but are of good quality.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
>Went shopping for an alternator belt today and couldn't find a local parts shop
that carried Gates. They all sold the same brand called Dayco Top Cog. My
question has to do with belt quality. These belts have a ribbed back. When I
questioned the fact that less material may make them less durable, the response
was they were more durable since the ribs made them more flexible and they
ran cooler.
>
>What is the skinny on belt quality/durability? Is this for real or just a way
to sell cheap belts to a naive belt buyer, like me?
>
>Thanks
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: OT: Oshkosh bound... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "T H" <flyinggrizz@hotmail.com>
> >We've decided to make our first pilgrimage to Oshkosh this summer and
> >we're going to camp on the grounds. I've read the EAA's survival guide,
> >but I'd some specific recommendations about what to bring. What sort of
> >tent, sleeping bag, etc. Should I just go down to REI and have at it?
> > I'd hate to purchase or pack anything unnecessary.
> >
Things to take to Oshkosh:
1 Cash
2 Credit Cards (take several so you have backups as you reach your credit
limit)
3 More Cash
4 Your best walking shoes
Everything will cost more than you ever thought. Don't let it slow you down,
just be prepared.
You'll have a great time.
Grizz
http://moneycentral.msn.com/tax/home.asp
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Mike,
I've been running the Dayco 'Top Cog' for nearly three years now
with over 300 hours. Trouble free, so far. Visually, still looks fine.
Bob
=========================================
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>Mike,
>Dayco is a good brand as far as I know. It makes sense that increasing the
>area may help get rid of the heat -- a little.
>
>Gates is sold by NAPA. That's what I used.
>
>Dan RV-7A (almost done)
>
>
>In a message dated 3/17/04 12:44:15 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
>hollandm@pacbell.net writes:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>>
>>Went shopping for an alternator belt today and couldn't find a local parts
>>shop that carried Gates. They all sold the same brand called Dayco Top Cog.
>>My question has to do with belt quality. These belts have a ribbed back.
>>When I questioned the fact that less material may make them less durable, the
>>response was they were more durable since the ribs made them more flexible and
>>they ran cooler.
>>
>>What is the skinny on belt quality/durability? Is this for real or just a
>>way to sell cheap belts to a naive belt buyer, like me?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
Mike
My 7A is only to the wing stage but I do have a lot of experience with belts.
I design and install air conditioner compressor mounts for cars and trucks
that were not equipped with air from the factory. We have used a lot of the
Dayco TopCog belts and they really do have a longer life provided they are not
used in an installation that requires an idler pulley running on the back of the
belt. The negative flex angle coupled with the idler contact will disintegrate
the belt very quickly. With this exception they do a great job.
Carroll Jernigan
RV-7A Wings
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
List,
I'm at the point of running wires to my RC Allen grip and I'm not sure how to get
the wires inside the stick. I've searched the archives but still have not formulated
a plan of attack. Just where, and how, is the best place to enter the
stick and still offer as much protection from chaffing as possible, yet allow
flexibility? I've got both elevator and aileron trim plus PTT wiring as well.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV-8, wiring
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
>Does anyone know where I can get a titanium hammer to save weight?
>
Argh....
Maybe it should be inflatable, too? :-) :-) :-)
A hammer that weighs next to nothing.....
is worth next to nothing, methinks.
Think about it.
Bob
Message 15
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| Subject: | OT: Oshkosh bound... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> > >We've decided to make our first pilgrimage to Oshkosh this
> summer and
> > >we're going to camp on the grounds. I've read the EAA's survival
> > >guide, but I'd some specific recommendations about what to bring.
> > >What sort of tent, sleeping bag, etc. Should I just go
> down to REI
> > >and have at it? I'd hate to purchase or pack anything unnecessary.
> > >
> Things to take to Oshkosh:
>
> 1 Cash
> 2 Credit Cards (take several so you have backups as you
> reach your credit
> limit)
> 3 More Cash
> 4 Your best walking shoes
>
> Everything will cost more than you ever thought. Don't let it
> slow you down,
> just be prepared.
>
> You'll have a great time.
>
> Grizz
I'd add one more imporant thing, which is a hot button for me, and that
is that they charge a minimum of 3 nights' camping. This feels like a
gouge if one only wants to stay one night. I've decided to only go for
the day (I'm only 1.5 hours away by RV) because of it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
I drilled a hole near the pivot point to minimize motion.
Be sure and use AWG 22, and the good stuff (tefzel) for chafe
resistance.
On Mar 17, 2004, at 6:46 AM, Steve Struyk wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
>
> List,
>
> I'm at the point of running wires to my RC Allen grip and I'm not sure
> how to get the wires inside the stick. I've searched the archives but
> still have not formulated a plan of attack. Just where, and how, is
> the best place to enter the stick and still offer as much protection
> from chaffing as possible, yet allow flexibility? I've got both
> elevator and aileron trim plus PTT wiring as well.
>
> Steve Struyk
> St. Charles, MO
> RV-8, wiring
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
What do you mean IF you join EAA?
Where are you going to get the support that the EAA's Technical Counselor
program offers?
Where are you going to the expertise for Test Flying your new RV-8?
Van has a factory pilot to give you some transition training in an RV-6 but
the EAA has also has gotten a waiver so there are probably several RV-8
pilots that can give you some prior transition training before you try the
same in your new RV. This is very important when going for that first
flight.
The local EAA Chapter also probably has a tool library for that special
one-time use tooling. There will be interested EAA members that can lend a
hand when it comes to inspecting and repositioning.
In my EAA Chapter, we have several completed RV-8s and several on the way.
Each helps each other even though they are many miles apart. The Chapter has
had project reviews of these projects along the way. Second pair of
eyeballs is extremely helpful. Another builder can help you over the tough
spots and help you avoid mistakes.
The Question is WHEN are you going to join the EAA?
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or sportpilot@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
> --> RV-List message posted by: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
>
>
> After about a year of lurking and considering I am getting real
closing
> to ordering an rv-8a kit. Although before I take the plunge I was hoping
for
> a little advice.
>
> 1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area? If I join eaa,
will
> the web page tell me there to go to meet other builders? From reading the
> various web builde's logs out there, it looks like knowiing others is
vital
> to building a top quality kit.
>
> 2) How long should I expect to spend building a quickbuild rv-8a? I
> have built various rc models, and consider myself OK with mechanical
things.
> However I have never worked with sheet metal or riviting before.
>
> 3) Would you consider the emp kit a good way to see if I am cut out
for
> home building?
>
> 4) I've never actually flown in an rv before. I assume it makes sense
> to go to the factory and get a demo flight? Is there anything else I
should
> do while I am down there?
>
>
> Sorry for the long list of questions, but I am getting real close to
> placing an order :)
> --Eddie
>
> FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar get it now!
> http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | OT: Oshkosh bound... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
I would also include sunglasses and a hat...
Of course if you have cash you can purchase them...
Regards,
Trampas Stern
Stern Technologies
4321 Waterwheel Dr
Raleigh NC 27606
919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice)
919-832-8441 (fax)
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
Subject: RE: RV-List: OT: Oshkosh bound...
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> > >We've decided to make our first pilgrimage to Oshkosh this
> summer and
> > >we're going to camp on the grounds. I've read the EAA's survival
> > >guide, but I'd some specific recommendations about what to bring.
> > >What sort of tent, sleeping bag, etc. Should I just go
> down to REI
> > >and have at it? I'd hate to purchase or pack anything unnecessary.
> > >
> Things to take to Oshkosh:
>
> 1 Cash
> 2 Credit Cards (take several so you have backups as you
> reach your credit
> limit)
> 3 More Cash
> 4 Your best walking shoes
>
> Everything will cost more than you ever thought. Don't let it
> slow you down,
> just be prepared.
>
> You'll have a great time.
>
> Grizz
I'd add one more imporant thing, which is a hot button for me, and that
is that they charge a minimum of 3 nights' camping. This feels like a
gouge if one only wants to stay one night. I've decided to only go for
the day (I'm only 1.5 hours away by RV) because of it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
> >
> >Went shopping for an alternator belt today and couldn't find a local
parts shop that carried Gates. They all sold the same brand called Dayco
Top Cog. My question has to do with belt quality. These belts have a
ribbed back. When I questioned the fact that less material may make them
less durable, the response was they were more durable since the ribs made
them more flexible and they ran cooler.
> >
> >What is the skinny on belt quality/durability? Is this for real or just
a way to sell cheap belts to a naive belt buyer, like me?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
Mike, I've had a Dayco belt last less than 20 hours, I have since insisted
on Gates and while they are a bit more expensive and harder to find, they
are well worth the effort. Peace of Mind, etc. Have you tried searching on
the internet for your particular Gate belt size?
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <altoq@direcway.com>
Mike,
When I was much younger, playing around with Small Block Cheys and such, I
found a good running high winder would roll the belts over in the pullies.
When this belt came along, the news spread quickly that it did not roll
over.
Now when I look for belts, Dayco Top Cog (Outside Mass is what we called
them) is the only thing I use. As V-belts go IMHO they are the best
John D
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Alternator Belts
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
> Went shopping for an alternator belt today and couldn't find a local parts
shop that carried Gates. They all sold the same brand called Dayco Top Cog.
My question has to do with belt quality. These belts have a ribbed back.
When I questioned the fact that less material may make them less durable,
the response was they were more durable since the ribs made them more
flexible and they ran cooler.
>
> What is the skinny on belt quality/durability? Is this for real or just a
way to sell cheap belts to a naive belt buyer, like me?
>
> Thanks
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
>
> 1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area?
Ed:
Try the RV Finder,
http://www.rvproject.com/registry/rvfinder.jsp
If you do a search for 25 miles around Seattle, WA, you'll get a list of 5
registered RV-8s and 63 other types of RVs, complete with owner's names and
addresses.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
Lets see
3 lb. titanium hammer = 3 lb.
3 lb. steel hammer = 3 lb.
What weighs more, a pound of feathers or a pound of lead?
GZ
Bob U. wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
>
>
>Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>>
>>
>>Does anyone know where I can get a titanium hammer to save weight?
>>
>>
>>
>
>Argh....
>Maybe it should be inflatable, too? :-) :-) :-)
>
>A hammer that weighs next to nothing.....
>is worth next to nothing, methinks.
>
>Think about it.
>
>
>Bob
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I worked on my slow build has many hours as possible, which worked out to ~30
hrs a week, and thats with a full time job, and I am married. I had one good
helper for everything except paint. Neither of us have ever built a plane
before but we are both good mechanically and he is better than me electrically
and I better than him in the paint dept. 2 years to the month it flew painted
and I did the painting which added months. It flew with out the gear leg
fairings completed. My motivation for getting it done so fast was to go fly a
rental plane. Here are my tips for getting it done quickly:
1- Get buy in from the wife on the amount of time it is going to take.
2- Get the wife to help if at all interested.
3- Have a helper either for the entire project or for specific parts,
mechanical, electrical, paint etc.
4- A helper is a MUST for getting it done in a reasonable amount of time.
5- Knowing someone who has a arm with 2 elbows is also helpful.
At 07:16 AM 3/17/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>Eddie,
>
>You came to the right place for answers. I bet you get offered about 10
>rides in RV-8s.
>
>I expected to finish my RV-7A (slow build) in about 2 years. Its going to be
>almost 3. And I'm retired. The quick build, in my opinion, won't save you
>as much time as you may think. The sheet metal work goes pretty fast with the
>prepunched kits. The instrument panel, canopy, wiring, and firewall forward
>is what really slowed me down. Van's says, I think, about 1600 hours to build
>an 8. I have gone over 2200 on my 7A, but I'm slow.
>
>Everyone starts with the empennage. Yes, that will at least give you a
>pretty good idea of what you're up against. Tenacity is the real virtue
>that will
>get you to the end.
>
>I'm sure you'll get lots of opinions, this is just mine of course!
>
>Go for it,
>Dan
>RV-7A (almost done!)
>
>
>In a message dated 3/17/04 2:53:22 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
>ed_88@hotmail.com writes:
>
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
>>
>>
>> After about a year of lurking and considering I am getting real closing
>> to ordering an rv-8a kit. Although before I take the plunge I was hoping for
>>
>> a little advice.
>>
>> 1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area? If I join eaa, will
>> the web page tell me there to go to meet other builders? From reading the
>> various web builde's logs out there, it looks like knowiing others is vital
>> to building a top quality kit.
>>
>> 2) How long should I expect to spend building a quickbuild rv-8a? I
>> have built various rc models, and consider myself OK with mechanical things.
>>
>> However I have never worked with sheet metal or riviting before.
>>
>> 3) Would you consider the emp kit a good way to see if I am cut out for
>> home building?
>>
>> 4) I've never actually flown in an rv before. I assume it makes sense
>> to go to the factory and get a demo flight? Is there anything else I should
>> do while I am down there?
>>
>>
>> Sorry for the long list of questions, but I am getting real close to
>> placing an order :)
>> --Eddie
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
The question is which weighs more a pound of feathers or a pound of gold?
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Bummer on the problem. Had a few myself.
My recommendation:
option 1: Check with Van's. Get a recommended fix from them on your
specific situation.
option 2: Fix it as per the plans (replace metal).
IMVHO, this is far too critical to do anything different. I personally
wouldn't want to have the worry from that attachment detract from the
enjoyment of flying.
BTW - looks like you may need a little more shim under the angle in your
pic.
Good luck.
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
>Ouch. I goofed while drilling the holes for the forward
>spar on the HS. I'm not sure what to do, and I would
>appreciate any advice you can offer. I've got pictures
>and details on my site, and I would be happy to hear
>any advice or tips or tricks.
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=2004031620072395
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>
Find a broadband plan that fits. Great local deals on high-speed Internet
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
Ed,
Go fly the RV-8A at Van's and take your check book. Just finished mine
RV-8A 888FP and WOW best aircraft I have ever flown.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel@blueskyaviation.net <mailto:noel@blueskyaviation.net>
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of ed
Subject: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
--> RV-List message posted by: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
After about a year of lurking and considering I am getting real closing
to ordering an rv-8a kit. Although before I take the plunge I was hoping for
a little advice.
1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area? If I join eaa, will
the web page tell me there to go to meet other builders? From reading the
various web builde's logs out there, it looks like knowiing others is vital
to building a top quality kit.
2) How long should I expect to spend building a quickbuild rv-8a? I
have built various rc models, and consider myself OK with mechanical things.
However I have never worked with sheet metal or riviting before.
3) Would you consider the emp kit a good way to see if I am cut out for
home building?
4) I've never actually flown in an rv before. I assume it makes sense
to go to the factory and get a demo flight? Is there anything else I should
do while I am down there?
Sorry for the long list of questions, but I am getting real close to
placing an order :)
--Eddie
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar get it now!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Alternator Belts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
The belts that NAPA carry are made by Gates ... at least the ones I looked
at (and bought).
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
> Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 9:08 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternator Belts
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
>
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
> > >
> > >Went shopping for an alternator belt today and couldn't find a local
> parts shop that carried Gates. They all sold the same brand called Dayco
> Top Cog. My question has to do with belt quality. These belts have a
> ribbed back. When I questioned the fact that less material may make them
> less durable, the response was they were more durable since the ribs made
> them more flexible and they ran cooler.
> > >
> > >What is the skinny on belt quality/durability? Is this for
> real or just
> a way to sell cheap belts to a naive belt buyer, like me?
> > >
> > >Thanks
> > >
>
>
> Mike, I've had a Dayco belt last less than 20 hours, I have since insisted
> on Gates and while they are a bit more expensive and harder to find, they
> are well worth the effort. Peace of Mind, etc. Have you tried
> searching on
> the internet for your particular Gate belt size?
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
There are a bunch of guys in the Seattle area building RV's....if they dont
introduce themselves you can probably get a list from Vans. Also go the the
fly-ins close by this summer...Arlington,Scappoose and the homecoming come
to mind
Building time ALWAYS varies by the individual....some guys can do a quick
build in a year ...but not too many
Empennage is a perfect way to get a taste of building. Not too expensive,
but a good sampling of the skills you will need to build.
When in Portland go to a restarant called the Veritable Quandry....order the
osso bucco (veal) :) mmmmmmmmm
Evan
----- Original Message -----
From: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
> --> RV-List message posted by: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
>
>
> After about a year of lurking and considering I am getting real
closing
> to ordering an rv-8a kit. Although before I take the plunge I was hoping
for
> a little advice.
>
> 1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area? If I join eaa,
will
> the web page tell me there to go to meet other builders? From reading the
> various web builde's logs out there, it looks like knowiing others is
vital
> to building a top quality kit.
>
> 2) How long should I expect to spend building a quickbuild rv-8a? I
> have built various rc models, and consider myself OK with mechanical
things.
> However I have never worked with sheet metal or riviting before.
>
> 3) Would you consider the emp kit a good way to see if I am cut out
for
> home building?
>
> 4) I've never actually flown in an rv before. I assume it makes sense
> to go to the factory and get a demo flight? Is there anything else I
should
> do while I am down there?
>
>
> Sorry for the long list of questions, but I am getting real close to
> placing an order :)
> --Eddie
>
> FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar get it now!
> http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
Nice pictures. Maintaining good edge distances on through-bolted angles is
always difficult. I would recommend replacing the angle. Remove the HS
from the tail, drill out the rivets on the HS spar and reinstall a new piece
of angle. When you make the new angle, taper it to fit closely between the
longerons and radius the ends so it fits with as much material (edge
distance) as possible. It will take only a few hours and give years of
satisfaction.
Good luck,
Dean
RV-4
186 hours
>From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem
>Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 20:39:06 +0100
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>Ouch. I goofed while drilling the holes for the forward
>spar on the HS. I'm not sure what to do, and I would
>appreciate any advice you can offer. I've got pictures
>and details on my site, and I would be happy to hear
>any advice or tips or tricks.
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=2004031620072395
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar get it now!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 30
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|
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Anyone have an extra compass correction card laying around that they don't
need?
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
"option 1: Check with Van's. Get a recommended fix from them on your
specific situation."
Could not agree more. These message boards are great but run everything by
the experts once you think you have the answer.
At 09:06 AM 3/17/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
>Bummer on the problem. Had a few myself.
>
>My recommendation:
>
>option 1: Check with Van's. Get a recommended fix from them on your
>specific situation.
>
>option 2: Fix it as per the plans (replace metal).
>
>IMVHO, this is far too critical to do anything different. I personally
>wouldn't want to have the worry from that attachment detract from the
>enjoyment of flying.
>
>BTW - looks like you may need a little more shim under the angle in your
>pic.
>
>Good luck.
>
>Bryan Jones -8
>www.LoneStarSquadron.com
>Houston, Texas
>
>
>>Ouch. I goofed while drilling the holes for the forward
>>spar on the HS. I'm not sure what to do, and I would
>>appreciate any advice you can offer. I've got pictures
>>and details on my site, and I would be happy to hear
>>any advice or tips or tricks.
>>
>> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=2004031620072395
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Mickey
>>
>>
>
>Find a broadband plan that fits. Great local deals on high-speed Internet
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | stick/rudder lock |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
So what is everyone using for a control stick and rudder lock?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
Do you have a web site?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas
Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now
shipping!
It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine
up
to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors
calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it.
If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
1-877-820-6590
==
==
==
==
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
Eddie,
I didn't notice exactly where you live - but if you are in the greater
Seattle area visit the EAA 326 Chapter in Puyallup (Thun Field). (We have a great
web page at: www.EAA326.org) At last count we have over 40 RV's in the
chapter that are under construction or flying. Want an dose of RV??? this is
the
place!
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - almost done!!!!
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: OT: Oshkosh bound... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Alex, you don't even have to camp do you? With you being 1.5 hours away,
could you not fly in, in the early morning, park the plane somewhere for a
few hours without camping, and take off about 6 in the evening if the
weather is fair? I don't know the answer, and I had not even thought it
about before you posted your message. Is that possible and save the 3 days
camping charge?
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp
TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
JeffRose Flightline Interiors
Firewall Forward, Wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: OT: Oshkosh bound...
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> >
> > > >We've decided to make our first pilgrimage to Oshkosh this
> > summer and
> > > >we're going to camp on the grounds. I've read the EAA's survival
> > > >guide, but I'd some specific recommendations about what to bring.
> > > >What sort of tent, sleeping bag, etc. Should I just go
> > down to REI
> > > >and have at it? I'd hate to purchase or pack anything unnecessary.
> > > >
> > Things to take to Oshkosh:
> >
> > 1 Cash
> > 2 Credit Cards (take several so you have backups as you
> > reach your credit
> > limit)
> > 3 More Cash
> > 4 Your best walking shoes
> >
> > Everything will cost more than you ever thought. Don't let it
> > slow you down,
> > just be prepared.
> >
> > You'll have a great time.
> >
> > Grizz
>
> I'd add one more imporant thing, which is a hot button for me, and that
> is that they charge a minimum of 3 nights' camping. This feels like a
> gouge if one only wants to stay one night. I've decided to only go for
> the day (I'm only 1.5 hours away by RV) because of it.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
Eddie, there's still time! It's an RV-8, not 8-A that you want! Don't risk
"Tail-Dragger" envy for years to come! Come over from the Dark Side and fly
a real airplane. You'll never regret it! ;-) But, . . .if it will give you
severe angst, then. . .I guess it's better than a spam can. As for your
question about "How long will it take?", oh. . .anywhere between 89 days and
15 years! Your energy, discipline and wallet will determine the answer.
Notice I didn't mention skill. If you can drive a nail straight, with
practice you can rivet together an RV-8, er, I mean RV. It's just harder to
imagine that you're in a P-51 sitting level on the tarmac. Welcome to the
club and get that order into Van's. Whadda ya wait'n fer, boy??
Do Not Archive
Ken Brooks
6.5 years and counting (with a QB, no less!)
Roscoe, IL
N1903P (yes, for the Wright Bros.)
Message 37
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| Subject: | RV8 horizontal stabilizer mounting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Thanks everyone for all the good advice. Van's said
just put a bolt on and go fly, but they also said that
if you're going to worry about it, then it's best to
"fix" it. I think I will worry about it, but my
memory is getting shorter the older I get. :-)
Replacing the angle sounds like a good idea, and I
may end up doing that, but I'm not sure I can really
add enough to the length to make a difference. Not
much more space there.
One idea I got from Scott was to add an angle to the
back of the front spar on the HS, and drill that into
the longeron. I looked at that today, and it seems like
the best idea I've heard, and looks fast, easy, and will
add strength that was not there.
Here in Switzerland we have to run these kinds of design
changes by our build advisor, which I will do. I'm sure
he'll be ok with it.
Thanks again, guys!
Mickey
>option 1: Check with Van's. Get a recommended fix from them on your
>specific situation.
>
>option 2: Fix it as per the plans (replace metal).
>
>IMVHO, this is far too critical to do anything different. I personally
>wouldn't want to have the worry from that attachment detract from the
>enjoyment of flying.
>
>BTW - looks like you may need a little more shim under the angle in your
>pic.
>
>Good luck.
>
>Bryan Jones -8
>www.LoneStarSquadron.com
>Houston, Texas
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I have tried several different methods and now finally have one that I like.
I use a 1/8" welding rod that is bent appropriately and attached to the
bottom of the instrument panel with one eye of hinge at each end. It simply
flips back out of sight when not in use.
The rudder is pinned with a piece of the same rod bent into a "U" and
inserted into a hole in each of the rudder control stops with a red flag
attached.
I can probably post a picture if you would like.
John Furey
2nd RV6A O-320 170hrs
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
Eddie
Stick with the A. You can find a lot of pictures of RVs on their back and
more often than not there are two wheels sticking up, not three.
Carroll Jernigan
RV-7A Wings
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
Ed,
On Wed, 17 Mar 2004 07:48:45 +0000 From: "ed \240" <ed_88@hotmai... "ed "
<ed_88@hotmail.com> writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
>
>
> After about a year of lurking and considering I am getting real
> closing
> to ordering an rv-8a kit. Although before I take the plunge I was
> hoping for
> a little advice.
>
> 1) How do I find find builders in the seattle area? If I join
> eaa, will the web page tell me there to go to meet other builders?
From reading the various web builde's logs out there, it looks like
knowiing others is vital to building a top quality kit.
Try <http://www.rvfinder.com/rvfinder.jsp>
2) How long should I expect to spend building a quickbuild
rv-8a? I have built various rc models, and consider myself OK with
mechanical things. However I have never worked with sheet metal
or riviting before.
I don't know.
3) Would you consider the emp kit a good way to see if I am cut
out for home building?
It's the only way IMHO.
4) I've never actually flown in an rv before. I assume it makes
sense to go to the factory and get a demo flight? Is there anything
else I should do while I am down there?
Check out the other aircraft. Be sure your picking the right plane
for the right mission.
Message 41
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| Subject: | some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Eddie,
If you have serious doubts about your masculinity, by all means go for the
8. It seems to make some guys feel better about themselves and these days
that's really important. Otherwise, an 8A does everything just a little
better.
I am a very slow 8A builder in the Seattle area, Lake Forest Park.
Terry
RV-8A # 80729 wiring
N838T
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Brooks
Subject: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
Eddie, there's still time! It's an RV-8, not 8-A that you want! Don't risk
"Tail-Dragger" envy for years to come! Come over from the Dark Side and fly
a real airplane. You'll never regret it! ;-) But, . . .if it will give you
severe angst, then. . .I guess it's better than a spam can. As for your
question about "How long will it take?", oh. . .anywhere between 89 days and
15 years! Your energy, discipline and wallet will determine the answer.
Notice I didn't mention skill. If you can drive a nail straight, with
practice you can rivet together an RV-8, er, I mean RV. It's just harder to
imagine that you're in a P-51 sitting level on the tarmac. Welcome to the
club and get that order into Van's. Whadda ya wait'n fer, boy??
Do Not Archive
Ken Brooks
6.5 years and counting (with a QB, no less!)
Roscoe, IL
N1903P (yes, for the Wright Bros.)
Message 42
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| Subject: | iridite distributor |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Japundza <bjapundza@yahoo.com>
Hi All,
None of the local chemical supply houses knew of or heard of Iridite 14-2 (Alodine).
Can anyone point me to a mail-order supplier?
Regards,
Bob
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Compass Adjusting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Is there any way to get more adjustment to the compass when dialing it in
at the compass rose? Everything is great except North is 10 degree's off at
best. ............................................................
Hmmmmmmm, why cant I cheat and rotate the compass slightly. I have the
pedistal type and could pivot it around its verticle axis .....I bet this
would work. It would move everything else off but there is plenty of
adjustment in the other directions.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
From: "ed \240" <ed_88@hotmai...
--> RV-List message posted by: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
Wow, thanks for all the quick responses to my questions. People are
replying to me way faster thanks I can keep up with, so here is the quick
summary of what people have been telling me.
1) EAA 326 is the local chapter for me. I'm going to join the EAA and attend
their next meeting, so those of you in the area can here my endless
questions in person :)
2) http://www.rvfinder.com/rvfinder.jsp will tell me how the builders are
near me. But I figure I'll go to the EAA meeting rather than cold call
people.
3) The project will take a long long time, but it is best not to dwell on
that.
4) Working on the plane may lead to divorce - Since I am not married, I
think I am safe from this one.
5) yes - the emp kit is first for a reason, thats where new builders can see
if they have what it takes.
thanks again for the quick responses from everyone.
--Eddie
Message 45
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Well,
this will stir the pot a little, but..
My first qualifier is that I have Randy's Ti-tiedowns and love them. They
are good for most situations particularly where there is a wind that is
shearing across the ground in one direction and the plane can be tied down
in a non lifting orientation (backwards to the wind). This is common out
here in the west where the wind comes from alaska or japan most times.
But, in tornado country where the plane can be lifted directly up with a lot
of force the doggy ties will pull out. How do I know this?
I used to own a tractor and had the job of pulling out left over tie downs
at our flyins. The doggy ties if cheap will straighten out, if strong they
will still come upwards fairly easily as they loosen the surrounding soil as
they are screwed in. My experience in So Cal soil was the doggy ties come
out easier than any other type.
A straight stake driven 2 to 3 ft into the ground will compact the soil
around it and solidify itself to the surrounding substrate. Ribbed re-bar is
particularly good for this. This is why many major structures are stabilized
locally with large pilings driven straight into the ground rather than bored
in.
This type of tie down was the only thing that would gag my tractor and lift
its nose off the ground while pulling it out.
I use three 30" peices of 3/4 flange x 1/8thk 6061 aluminum angle with a
sharp point, and a series of 1/4" holes every 1.5" on the top half. This
allows one to make an extraction lever that fits into the holes and can be
levered against a piece of wood on the ground.
Another school of thought also has one leave the tail wheel loose enough so
that it lifts to a position that stops the main wing from lifting. I'm not
convinced that this is good for RVs, but, I throw it out there for group
digestion.
If one was really clever they would integrate the mass of their canopy
breaker into a stake driver/lever pullerouter fire extinguisher flashlight
drooling/touchey looky loo beater tool.
W
Message 46
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| Subject: | some questions from a new guy |
From: "ed \240" <ed_88@hotmai...
--> RV-List message posted by: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
This sounds like the sort of talk that could start a flame war :)
But sersiously I will get some tailwheel training before makeing the final
descision. (I understand I can build quite a bit before I have to make it.)
However I suspect that I will still opt for the A version. I don't plan on
landing on anything worse than a decently maintained grass strip, so I don't
think the tailwheel's rough field help would be much use to me. And in
general I like to give myself all the advantages I can, so I would be
willing to sacrifice the extra 1% in speed for better ground visibility and
less fear of a ground loop.
In order to avoid spamming the list with a topic that has been beaten to
death, I think I'll wait till I am much farther along before soliciting
opinions on that topic....
--Eddie
>From: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
>Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 10:27:20 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
>
>Eddie, there's still time! It's an RV-8, not 8-A that you want! Don't
>risk
>"Tail-Dragger" envy for years to come! Come over from the Dark Side and
>fly
>a real airplane. You'll never regret it! ;-) But, . . .if it will give
>you
>severe angst, then. . .I guess it's better than a spam can. As for your
>question about "How long will it take?", oh. . .anywhere between 89 days
>and
>15 years! Your energy, discipline and wallet will determine the answer.
>Notice I didn't mention skill. If you can drive a nail straight, with
>practice you can rivet together an RV-8, er, I mean RV. It's just harder
>to
>imagine that you're in a P-51 sitting level on the tarmac. Welcome to the
>club and get that order into Van's. Whadda ya wait'n fer, boy??
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>Ken Brooks
>6.5 years and counting (with a QB, no less!)
>Roscoe, IL
>N1903P (yes, for the Wright Bros.)
>
>
Find a broadband plan that fits. Great local deals on high-speed Internet
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: <klwerner@comcast.net>
Dearest Carroll,
You must have failed math class, because on all current Vans designs there are
three wheels (no matter what preference one might have on the training wheel end
location). And for what it is worth: "A's" have been seen on their backs too
after the nose gear folds in!
Sincerely,
Konrad
(6-Alpha)
no offense / do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Trainnut01@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
Eddie
Stick with the A. You can find a lot of pictures of RVs on their back and
more often than not there are two wheels sticking up, not three.
Carroll Jernigan
RV-7A Wings
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> Stick with the A. You can find a lot of pictures of RVs on their back and
> more often than not there are two wheels sticking up, not three.
And what percentage of the fleet total hours is in taildraggers?
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 49
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| Subject: | OT: Oshkosh bound... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Larry, that is what I plan to do (as I wrote originally below). It is
just that the camping was a fun part of the O experience, I just didn't
want to do it 3 nights.
Alex
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
> --> <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> Alex, you don't even have to camp do you? With you being 1.5
> hours away, could you not fly in, in the early morning, park
> the plane somewhere for a few hours without camping, and take
> off about 6 in the evening if the weather is fair? I don't
> know the answer, and I had not even thought it about before
> you posted your message. Is that possible and save the 3
> days camping charge?
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp
> TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> JeffRose Flightline Interiors
> Firewall Forward, Wiring
> > I'd add one more important thing, which is a hot button for me, and
> > that is that they charge a minimum of 3 nights' camping.
> This feels
> > like a gouge if one only wants to stay one night. I've decided to
> > only go for the day (I'm only 1.5 hours away by RV) because of it.
> >
> > Alex Peterson
> > Maple Grove, MN
> > RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
> >
> > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
> >
> >
>
>
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Yeah, "two wheels sticking up, not three" because the nose gear broke off.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Trainnut01@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
> --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
>
> Eddie
> Stick with the A. You can find a lot of pictures of RVs on their back and
> more often than not there are two wheels sticking up, not three.
>
> Carroll Jernigan
> RV-7A Wings
>
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
Konrad
You're right of course. I quess that one in back is so small I just didn't
notice it. I really did not intend to start an argument. I realize its a matter
of opinion, that's why Van builds them both ways.
Carroll
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: OSH - what to take |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Wheelers list is great but don't forget your water bottles - input and
output. Drink lotsa water during the day and no pop. (Don't ever drink pop!)
Beer, wine, whiskey are all hard to get at OSH.
Shower at any time except morning and evening as the water then is often
real cold. Don't drop your soap!
Map and event calendars - my buddy prints them out & we plan the day around
them. To reduce hiking time plan to see things in order.
You'll need at least one day to look at and study the RV's and to talk to
builders and, if you have your plane there, to talk to lookers.
If you don't want to camp, better make reservations now!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: <klwerner@comcast.net>
After all, in the Air you really can't tell the difference on how they handle.
But on the ground, let's have each his/her own preference on the 3 wheels.
Konrad
(-6A)
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Trainnut01@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
Konrad
You're right of course. I quess that one in back is so small I just didn't
notice it. I really did not intend to start an argument. I realize its a matter
of opinion, that's why Van builds them both ways.
Carroll
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>Stick with the A. You can find a lot of pictures of RVs on their back and
>more often than not there are two wheels sticking up, not three.
That's because the nose wheel broke off! :-)
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
do not archive
Message 55
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|
| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
I've seen a u-shaped piece of rod designed to drop into the rudder control horn
and control stop (on one side, with appropriate hole drilled in each) thus securing
the rudder in a fully deflected position , and I've personally always secured
the stick full-aft by using the lap belt as a control lock.. Works 100%
-Bill B
RV-6A
Message 56
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|
| Subject: | For Sale - RV-6 Almost done with a panel to die for |
--> RV-List message posted by:
Hi
Most interested in buying RV6-for sale? Info? Price? Will you attend Sun
and Fun?
Goran Wintzell
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Frn: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] Fr Tim Bryan
Skickat: den 20 december 2003 06:31
Till: rv-list@matronics.com
mne: RV-List: For Sale - RV-6 Almost done with a panel to die for
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <Tim@bryantechnology.com>
Listers,
My RV-6 is for sale. It is almost done.
Sheet metal work is pretty much done, Canopy is pretty much done except
for
fiberglass.
Cowling is cut and fitted but hinges not on permanent, Engine is
installed,
baffles are fitted and installed but no chaffe rubber yet, panel
installed
complete, wiring done, wings test fitted.
0-360A1A Lycoming from Aerosport, New Constant Speed prop from Vans
I have everything to finish this airplane except the paint.
Serious buyers contact me off list for further details.
Tim Bryan
tim@bryantechnology.com
Redmond, Oregon
==
==
==
==
Message 57
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| Subject: | what does alodining do? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
Hi, everyone -
The primer I'm currently using specifically recommends against metal
treatments, so I'm not alodining, but I may switch primers in the
future. Talking about alodining got me curious. What, chemically, does
alodining do to the aluminum, and what is its purpose -- is it an
adhesion enhancer or an extra corrosion barrier?
thanks,
Jeff
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: iridite distributor |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 09:48 AM 3/17/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Japundza <bjapundza@yahoo.com>
>
>Hi All,
>
>None of the local chemical supply houses knew of or heard of Iridite 14-2
>(Alodine). Can anyone point me to a mail-order supplier?
West Marine
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=136&catalogId=10001&classNum=10892&subdeptNum=11204&storeNum=4
>Regards,
>Bob
>
>
Message 59
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| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
www.sterntech.com
Regards,
Trampas Stern
Stern Technologies
4321 Waterwheel Dr
Raleigh NC 27606
919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice)
919-832-8441 (fax)
www.sterntech.com
tstern@sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil McLeod
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
Do you have a web site?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas
Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now
shipping!
It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine
up
to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors
calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it.
If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
1-877-820-6590
==
==
==
==
Message 60
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| Subject: | Re: iridite distributor |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000@deru.com>
Bob Japundza wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Japundza
> None of the local chemical supply houses knew of or heard of Iridite 14-2 (Alodine).
> Can anyone point me to a mail-order supplier?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/nsearch.php?s=alodine
Does "chemical supply houses" include the local
automotive paint store and/or body shops?
--
Tim Coldenhoff
www.deru.com/~rv9a
90338 - electrical/finishing
Message 61
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| Subject: | How to use Ti-Downs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Andy Karmy <andy@karmy.com>
Ok, with all the discussions about which tiedowns to get and use in
various locations... Are there any tips from those of you that are
using Randy's Titanium Ti-Downs as to how to use them?
I have had a set for 2 years now and am still having problems getting
them in far enough. At Arlington this last summer I was only able to
get them in about half way using the supplied cheater bar. What are the
rest of you doing? I saw Wheeler's all the way screwed in right next to
me, but mine didn't seem to want to go in.
- Andy Karmy
RV9A Seattle WA
Message 62
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| Subject: | Re: How to use Ti-Downs |
--> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
Sounds like its time to hit the gym?
My ground support crew has never had any problems getting them in all the way
with the supplied bar. (Brian age 10 or Jeffrey age 13)
Now that we are building a RV-10 everyone will gets to go!! The only fight
now will be who gets to seat in front.
www.hometown.aol.com/robhickman/rv10.html
Rob Hickman
www.advanced-flight-systems.com
RV-4 N401RH
RV-10 S/N: 40204
Message 63
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| Subject: | Re: Compass Card... |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Here's one I scanned. It's a jpeg, but if you open it with almost any
photo program, you can print the corrected headings on it and print it!!!
Linn
Bill VonDane wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
>Anyone have an extra compass correction card laying around that they don't
>need?
>
>-Bill VonDane
>EAA Tech Counselor
>RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
>www.vondane.com
>www.creativair.com
>www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
>
>
Message 64
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--> RV-List message posted by: Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling@ssfhs.org>
Some one was looking for a place to get a RV painted in Indiana. There is a
first class shop located in Columbus Indiana.
The owner is Mike Williams. You can see his Oshkosh award winning work and
contact him at www.mike@mikeshangar.com
__________________________________
The information contained in this email and any accompanying documents is
intended for the sole use of the recipient to whom it is addressed, and may
contain information that is privileged, confidential, and prohibited from
disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, or
authorized to receive this on behalf of the recipient, you are hereby
notified that any review, use, disclosure, copying, or distribution is
prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient(s), please contact the
sender by e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. Thank you.
Message 65
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| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs/how to use |
--> RV-List message posted by: "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81@yahoo.com>
I also have a set of Ti-downs for my aircraft. At a 45
degree angle I think they could hold quite well in
strong winds. We had VERY strong gusts at OSH last
year and they all held all show with no re
positioning. Thanks, Randy !!
--- Randy Simpson <airtime@proaxis.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Randy Simpson
> <airtime@proaxis.com>
>
> At 07:39 PM 3/16/04 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper
> England
> <cengland@netdoor.com>
> >
> >Scott Bilinski wrote:
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >>
> >>So what are the best tie-downs for OSH?
> >>
> >>
> >>Scott Bilinski
> >>Eng dept 305
> >>Phone (858) 657-2536
> >>Pager (858) 502-5190
> >>
> >
> >Here's the triple spike system someone mentioned:
> >
> >http://www.theclaw.com/products/claw.php
> >
> >Just some Mississippi good ol' boys tryin' to make
> a livin'.
> >
> >Give 'em a call; we need the money down here. :-)
> >
> >Charlie
> >(no financial ties to them)
> ---------------
> Listers, here's a little story.
>
> Since I make a living making titanium Ti-downs for
> airplanes, I'm always
> interested in other types of aircraft Tie-downs.
> I first heard about "the claw" this past year while
> at the Arlington, WA
> fly-in.
> While wandering around, looking at all the cool
> planes, I met Bruce
> Bohannan and "The Flying Tiger".
> I'm sure most of you have heard about this
> record-breaking pilot and his
> HIGHLY modified RV-4.
>
http://www.pilotjournal.com/content/2003/septoct/images/tiger/plane.jpg
>
> The Tiger was tied down with the wimpy, weak doggie
> tie-downs.
>
> Being the kidder I am, I began to tease Bruce about
> him holding his awesome
> plane down with such crummy tie-downs.
> Bruce explained to me that he has a really good
> tie-down kit called "the
> claw", but didn't have them with him because he
> didn't have space in his
> plane to carry them, and they were HEAVY (8 lbs).
>
> Of course, I had to show him my titanium Ti-downs.
> He checked to see if the
> Ti-down kit would fit in his little glovebox sized
> cargo compartment, and
> yep, they fit easily in there.
> I offered to give him a kit, but he declined because
> he didn't know if the
> owner of the Flying Tiger had an exclusive deal with
> the maker of "the
> claw", as they had given him the kit.
>
> We chatted for a while, and discovered that we both
> were planning to be at
> OshKosh in a coulple of weeks, and he'd talk to the
> Tiger's owner to see if
> he could use my Ti-downs.
>
> At OshKosh, I wandered around and finally found the
> Exxon display, Flying
> Tiger, Bruce, and the Tiger's owner (sorry, I can't
> remember his name at
> the moment).
>
> Yep, it'd be no problem if Bruce used my Ti-downs,
> so I gave him a kit, and
> they gave me 3 Flying Tiger T-shirts.
>
> A little later the same day, while wandering around
> the vendor displays, I
> came across the guy (Bill Alexander) selling "the
> claw"...
>
> At first, I just looked at them, with enough
> interest for him to hold up a
> kit for me to see closer, and he informed me that
> they "only weigh 8 lbs,
> complete". I was kinda biting my lip, trying to
> decide if I should tell him
> who I was. I was wearing a "Flying Tiger" T-shirt
> that Bruce had given me,
> and Bill pointed at the picture on my shirt and said
> "that plane uses "the
> claw"...
>
> I shoulda just kept my mouth shut, but I blurted out
> "not anymore", before
> I could stop myself. I kicked myself later for
> saying that.
>
> Bill wanted to know what I meant by "not anymore",
> so I told him Bruce was
> using my titanium Ti-downs now.
>
> I let Bill know that Bruce spoke highly of his
> "claw", but he just didn't
> have room to carry them. Bill told me that he had
> alot of people tell him
> as they walked by that they already had some great
> titanium Ti-downs they'd
> bought at OshKosh the year before.
>
> We chatted pleasantly for another 10-15 minutes
> before I wished him well
> with his business and moved on. I did see quite a
> few of his "claw" kits
> holding down planes there, so I know he did sell
> some.
>
> There are some other Tie-down kits available...
>
> Fly-ties is one...(6 lb. kit)
> http://www.flyties.com/airplanes.htm
>
> Screw its, is another...and pretty cheap...(weight
> unknown)
> http://www.mcp.com.au/screwits/
>
> I personally think my titanium Ti-downs are the
> World's Best aircraft
> Tie-downs, but like I said in an earlier message,
> I'm biased.
>
> Keep on flying, and make sure you anchor your plane
> good, no matter what
> system you use.
>
> Sincerely,
> Randy Simpson
> Airtime Mfg.
> http://www.airtimemfg.com
>
> p.s. When I met Bruce Bohannan at Arlington, he
> happend to be chatting with
> my all-time hero...Bob "Hurricane" Hannah, multi
> time National motocross
> champion and past unlimited Reno air racer...
>
> I got to hang out with Bob, and while eating lunch,
> he told me a great
> story of his experience of almost losing his Piper
> Supercub in a sneak
> windstorm (due to it not being tied down) while
> hunting rockchucks on a
> mesa out in the boonies...he went totally nuts over
> my Ti-downs, and now
> has a kit in his plane at all times...
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
=== message truncated ===
__________________________________
Message 66
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| Subject: | Compass Adjusting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@uniserve.com>
Hi Scott
If north is off 10 degrees the other compass headings should not be "great".
Yes you can rotate the compass slightly to align the lubber line with the
fore aft aircraft axis or to adjust it slightly.
I would suggest that you start again, zero both adjuster magnets and then
check that the lubber line (compass) is lined up with the aircraft fore aft
axis. Then swing the compass following the proper procedure.
Next check and record the compass errors at each 30 degree heading (N 030
060) etc.
You should have errors that are both positive and negative as you turn the
aircraft through 360 degrees and these errors should average out. If the
errors are plotted on paper they will look like a sine wave, and with a good
compass this wave will be quite flat (2-3 deg) both above below the zero
line, a poor compass will have higher/lower peaks (5-6 + deg)errors. If the
lubber line (compass) is not aligned with the aircraft longitudinal axis
then the sine wave will be biased above or below the zero line.
What you want to do is find if there is a difference between the positive
and negative errors and adjust the compass (lubber line) by that same number
of degrees, you might still have a poor compass but the errors will then be
averaged out through the full 360 degrees.
Some compasses seem to perform better than other identical compasses and I
have had to replace one in a Cessna to get proper compass performance, on my
RV-6A the Sirs windshield mounted compass swings to within 2-3 degrees.
George in Langley
-
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Is there any way to get more adjustment to the compass when dialing it in
at the compass rose? Everything is great except North is 10 degree's off at
best. ............................................................
Hmmmmmmm, why cant I cheat and rotate the compass slightly. I have the
pedistal type and could pivot it around its verticle axis .....I bet this
would work. It would move everything else off but there is plenty of
adjustment in the other directions.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 67
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| Subject: | Defective Flap Actuator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
Heads up..
As I was rigging the flaps on my QB -8 today, I discovered that my flap
actuator (made in September 2002 according to the stamp on it) is defective.
Specifically, when it runs all the way out to the fully-extended position,
the black sliding part (with the rod-end bearing) completely unscrews and
disconnects itself from the worm drive inside the silver case. Obviously,
this would not be a good thing to have happen in flight...
By the way, there is no way to re-thread the black sliding piece to the worm
drive because of the clutch mechanism in the actuator. You can't keep the
worm drive from rotating while trying to reengage the threads on the end of
the black sliding piece.
A call to Vans and subsequently to Usher Enterprises -- the manufacturer of
the actuator -- revealed the following information:
When manufactured, the black sliding piece is threaded tightly into the worm
drive and secured with loctite. No pin or other method of anti-rotation --
only loctite.
The loctite is supposed to be strong enough that, when the actuator
reachesthe fully-extended limit of travel,the clutch in the actuator
releases before the loctite does. Thus, the actuator doesn't fall apart.
My actuator either never had loctite, had loctite that didn't work, or was
defective in some other way. Usher Enterprises is going to replace the
actuator for me (once I ship them the defective one -- at my expense).
This experience brings up another interesting point... There are many
messages in the archives about safety-wiring the rod-end bearing to the end
of the actuator arm because loctite supposedly isn't good enough to prevent
the bearing from unscrewing. However, safety-wiring the rod-end bearing won't
do a darn bit of good if the loctite inside the actuator doesn't do its job
and the sliding part pulls out of the case. It seems to be an equally-likely
point of failure -- especially if the clutch inside the actuator malfunctions
and the rotational forces inside the actuator are the same as those on the
rod-end bearing.
Although I'm not real pleased with an actuator design that holds itself
together with 10 or so threads and some loctite, both Vans and Usher told me
that they'd never encountered this problem before.
Any thoughts?
-Geoff
RV-8 QB
__________________________________
Message 68
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> If you have serious doubts about your masculinity, by all means go for the
> 8. It seems to make some guys feel better about themselves and these days
> that's really important. Otherwise, an 8A does everything just a little
> better.
I'm just playing devil's advocate here, with the best of intentions
(hopefully). I heard from a local RV-8A builder/pilot that he had to add
about 8 or 9 pounds of ballast LEAD in the tail to get it to balance out
right.
Is there any truth to this? Is this common? Would the taildragger be
better off CG-wise due to the lack of heavy nosegear & bit of extra weight
in the tailwheel? Could you avoid adding ballast with a taildragger?
Just curious -- really, I'm not trying to fight the tail-vs-nose war here.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 69
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|
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Actually, that's probably why he only saw 2 in the air. :-)
Seriously, (for new guys who don't know), the reason bush planes usually
*don't* have nose wheels is because it's very difficult to make a nose
gear strut & mount that can take the stress of hitting ruts, rocks, etc
without folding. Nose gear planes are much more likely to end up on
their backs in an off-field landing.
Of course, using that info as a basis for your choice only makes sense
if you intend to fly off of rough strips on a regular basis.
I started flying a taildragger to compensate for my feelings of
inadequacy (of money).
Charlie
learned in a Luscombe, flying a -4, working on -7 (no A) wings
klwerner@comcast.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <klwerner@comcast.net>
>
>Dearest Carroll,
>
>You must have failed math class, because on all current Vans designs there are
three wheels (no matter what preference one might have on the training wheel
end location). And for what it is worth: "A's" have been seen on their backs
too after the nose gear folds in!
>
>Sincerely,
>Konrad
>(6-Alpha)
>
>no offense / do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Trainnut01@aol.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 10:31 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
>
> Eddie
> Stick with the A. You can find a lot of pictures of RVs on their back and
> more often than not there are two wheels sticking up, not three.
>
> Carroll Jernigan
> RV-7A Wings
>
>
>
>
Message 70
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| Subject: | Lycoming O-320 E2G For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Do not archive
Posting for a friend. Please respond offline for further inquiries.
Engine Lycoming 0-320 E2G Serial number 48010-274 Mfg April 1978 TSMOH
918.1 TT 2596.7 Logbooks indicate extremely good maintenance performed on
this engine by Singapore Aviation. Equivalent to major every 500 hours with new
parts installed as required.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
Message 71
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| Subject: | Difficult to drill rivets cleanly. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
"Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com wrote: My experience drilling out rivets so far is
that its rarely
"clean" and if you can avoid it you're better off going that
way. Also there's two blind rivets between the tip rib and the
end of the spar which, if I heed the many warnings I've seen,
are very difficult to drill out. I'm not worried so much about
the cosmetics of it, more the strength."
For those who are finding rivet removal less than straightforward try my method.
No guarantees but it works for me. Drill a hole down through the center of
the rivet one size smaller than the rivet diameter and just barely through the
thickness of the parts it is holding together. If you have a lot to do a depth
stop can be useful here. Then with a variable speed drill running slowly
and using a bit slightly smaller than the rivet head at about a 45 deg. angle,
twist off the head. Now the shop head can now be twisted away with a high quality
pair of linesman's pliers. If this technique is mastered you'll cause no
damage to the hole. If the swelling rivet has slightly enlarged the hole take
the next length rivet and very gently give it a SLIGHT squeeze to increase
it's diameter a little and ensure a snug fit.
Good luck
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
Message 72
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| Subject: | Re: what does alodining do? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Jeff
have a look at http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/alodine.htm
gert
Jeff Cours wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
> Hi, everyone -
>
> The primer I'm currently using specifically recommends against metal
> treatments, so I'm not alodining, but I may switch primers in the
> future. Talking about alodining got me curious. What, chemically, does
> alodining do to the aluminum, and what is its purpose -- is it an
> adhesion enhancer or an extra corrosion barrier?
>
> thanks,
> Jeff
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 73
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|
| Subject: | Re: Defective Flap Actuator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Of course they have never seen it, what did you think they would say ???
being sarcastic here, but that is pretty much a standard answer nowadays
on anything going wrong. Never admit you have possebly other defective
units out there or let them know that as a mfg. you know about an
inherent, possible, or otherwise lurking problem.
do not archive
> Although I'm not real pleased with an actuator design that holds itself
> together with 10 or so threads and some loctite, both Vans and Usher told me
> that they'd never encountered this problem before.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> -Geoff
> RV-8 QB
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 74
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| Subject: | Re: iridite distributor |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Bob,
Forget the chemical supply houses. Find a local supplier of plating chemicals
and materials. (ie chrome, nickel and anodizing)
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Japundza <bjapundza@yahoo.com>
>
>Hi All,
>
>None of the local chemical supply houses knew of or heard of Iridite 14-2 (Alodine).
Can anyone point me to a mail-order supplier?
>
>Regards,
>Bob
>
>
Message 75
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| Subject: | Re: what does Alodining do? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Jeff,
Alodining and Iriditing (generic term is chromic acid conversion coating) do both.
They convert the surface layer of the aluminum to an oxide which resists
further oxidation. This coating also improves adhesion of the primer applied afterward.
Everything you ever wanted to know about corrosion control is in the
tech section of EAA chapter 1000's web site. See
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/corridx.htm
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
>Hi, everyone -
>
>The primer I'm currently using specifically recommends against metal
>treatments, so I'm not alodining, but I may switch primers in the
>future. Talking about alodining got me curious. What, chemically, does
>alodining do to the aluminum, and what is its purpose -- is it an
>adhesion enhancer or an extra corrosion barrier?
>
>thanks,
>Jeff
>
>
Message 76
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| Subject: | Re: Iridite distributor |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Bob,
Forget about purchasing Alodine or Iridite in liquid form. It costs to much and
incurs hazardous material shipping charges to ship (big $$) Go to MacDirmid's
web site and Henkel Surface Technologies (formerly Henkel Corp) web site. Do
a search for the nearest distributor near you. In Miami, I can buy 10 pounds
of Iridite 14-2 powder (enough for 100 - 130 gallons of liquid) for $170. You
will pay $25 per gallon for the liquid.
Duh! Do the math. You can buy a 10 pound can of powdered Alodine or Iridite
and split it with 2 friends. You will all have enough of the stuff to do your
entire projects.
While applying the acid with a sponge or spray bottle may work (my results with
these methods was less than spectacular) dipping the parts will give the best
results and the least waste of the material. With the purchase of Alodine in
powder form, you can economically make 40 gallons of the stuff. I've dipped all
4 of my 1 piece RV-8A wing skins with 40 gallons. I've done my 15+ foot long
main longerons with the same amount, as well as my fuselage tail cone skins.
Just make sure you use this stuff in the shade. Exposure to direct sun light will
ruin the chemicals. Ask RV-8 builder Andy Johnson, he learned the hard way!
:-(
You can locate your nearest distributor of powdered Iridite 14-2 at:
http://www.macindustrialproducts.com/sales.html
To locate a local distributor of Henkel Surface Technologies Alodine 1201 go to
http://www.hstna.com/corrosion/contactus.cfm
http://www.hstna.com/index.cfm?location=10&subsection=5&faq=2
Please note that you must register with both companies to access their database
of literature and tech info on these products. Registration is free.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A wiring
Boca Raton, Fl.
>--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000@deru.com>
>
>Bob Japundza wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Japundza
>> None of the local chemical supply houses knew of or heard of Iridite 14-2 (Alodine).
> > Can anyone point me to a mail-order supplier?
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/nsearch.php?s=alodine
>
>Does "chemical supply houses" include the local
>automotive paint store and/or body shops?
>--
>Tim Coldenhoff
>www.deru.com/~rv9a
>90338 - electrical/finishing
>
>
Message 77
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| Subject: | Re: OSH tie-downs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
They ain't cheap, but the price is probably about right to go with one
of those $400 fuel selector valves....
Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
>
>I'd hate to take money away from your Mississippi boys, but US$120 is
>*way* too steep for me.
>
>However, it does look like the kind of thing that *any* good ol' RV
>builder could put together on a Saturday afternoon with a few 12" nails,
>a few 3/16" bolts, and some bits of .063" angle aluminum. The only
>tricky thing would be how to attach the nails to the ends of the arms at
>the right angle... anyone got any ideas there?
>
>In fact, you could probably make them a bit smaller and lighter than the
>original... it looks like (apart from stability issues) you would only
>need *one* of the official Claw's to hold an RV down. Of course, the
>limiting factor is th strength of the soil that you nail these into! But
>maybe for RVs you could get away with 6" nails?
>
>Or maybe you could make it all out of Titanium? :-)
>
>Of course, you would have to buy your own hammer ;-)
>
>Frank
>
>
>
>>Here's the triple spike system someone mentioned:
>>
>>http://www.theclaw.com/products/claw.php
>>
>>
>
>Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
>at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
>(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
>and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
>Learning.
>
>Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
>future
>
>
>
>
Message 78
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| Subject: | Re: what does alodining do? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/17/2004 11:40:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv-j@moriarti.org writes:
The primer I'm currently using specifically recommends against metal
treatments, so I'm not alodining, but I may switch primers in the
future. Talking about alodining got me curious. What, chemically, does
alodining do to the aluminum, and what is its purpose -- is it an
adhesion enhancer or an extra corrosion barrier?
Both. It's also a desert topping ;
)
It is merely a controlled corrosion of the surface aluminum layer that forms
a uniform oxide layer. The trick to keeping your old Alodine's mojo up is to
warm the solution up and oxygenate it using an aquarium stone.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 685 hrs)
Message 79
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| Subject: | Re: what does alodining do? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Clayton Henderson <gsuit@eonet.net>
Jeff,
Do you really want to open THAT can of worms? :)
Seriously, check the archives for 'an exhaustive' listing on this
subject...under priming, alodine, etc.
Clayton Henderson
RV-7 Fuselage
Message 80
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| Subject: | Flop Tube - Which Tank |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
More stupid questions for the list...
- If I am installing a flop tube in just one tank...does it matter which one?
- Since I am using float senders, I know I will need to install the sender in the
flop tube tank in the 2nd bay. I understand that I use the regular cover plate
as a template to drill/cut the sender opening in the baffle. Any other modifications
that are needed? Is there any specific orientation that the sender
must be in the 2nd bay? Is there a best method for making the cutout in the
baffle?
- Does the vent tube get moved at all with the flop tube tank?
- I noticed that Van's sells a solid access plate if you are not using the float
sender holes. Any reason whay a piece of metal can't be riveted/sealed over
the sender opening? Trying to avoid another handling fee and 2 week ship time.
- Any other special parts needed for the tank completion?
Sorry for all the questions.
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 81
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Actually Dan, The guy had to add 8 or 9 pounds of lead to his shorts. It
turns out he was lacking in cohones, hence the tri-gear!
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
>Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 16:50:46 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > If you have serious doubts about your masculinity, by all means go for
>the
> > 8. It seems to make some guys feel better about themselves and these
>days
> > that's really important. Otherwise, an 8A does everything just a little
> > better.
>
>I'm just playing devil's advocate here, with the best of intentions
>(hopefully). I heard from a local RV-8A builder/pilot that he had to add
>about 8 or 9 pounds of ballast LEAD in the tail to get it to balance out
>right.
>
>Is there any truth to this? Is this common? Would the taildragger be
>better off CG-wise due to the lack of heavy nosegear & bit of extra weight
>in the tailwheel? Could you avoid adding ballast with a taildragger?
>
>Just curious -- really, I'm not trying to fight the tail-vs-nose war here.
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
All the action. All the drama. Get NCAA hoops coverage at MSN Sports by
ESPN. http://msn.espn.go.com/index.html?partnersite=espn
Message 82
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| Subject: | Re:Defective Flap Actuator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
What is it about flap problems? When our flap motor quit twice in 30 hrs due
to crud in the brushes, I called Motion Systems, the manufacturer of ours, and
they said "Gosh, never heard of that one before." Hard to believe I was the
only one to call them after numerous failures I read about here. At least Van's
admitted "There have been a few problems."
What Geoff says below just reinforces my desire to go back to manual flaps.
The only rational view I've heard for electric is they save space between the
seats for the side-by-sides.
Sorry, had to vent...do not archive.
Jerry Cochran
<<Although I'm not real pleased with an actuator design that holds itself
together with 10 or so threads and some loctite, both Vans and Usher told me
that they'd never encountered this problem before.
Any thoughts?
-Geoff
RV-8 QB>>
Message 83
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| Subject: | Re: Flop Tube - Which Tank |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I put mine in the left tank, I don't think it matters at all which one.
If I had it to do again, however, I wouldn't do it at all. Unless you
intent to hang upside down, and have inverted oil as well, it's a waste
of time. It adds weight and complicates running the fuel lines in the
cockpit, with no real benefit.
That said, if you want to do it anyway:
>- Since I am using float senders, I know I will need to install the sender in
the flop tube tank in the 2nd bay. I understand that I use the regular cover
plate as a template to drill/cut the sender opening in the baffle. Any other
modifications that are needed? Is there any specific orientation that the sender
must be in the 2nd bay? Is there a best method for making the cutout in the
baffle?
>
Putting the sender in the second bay guarantees that the two gauges will
never be the same, with the same about of fuel in the tank, due to wing
dihedral. There is no real trick, just put the hole in the rear
baffle. I cut out the piece of the tank cover where the sender normally
attaches, and riveted/prosealed it to the baffle as a reinforcement.
You will have to modify the bend of the float arm.
>- Does the vent tube get moved at all with the flop tube tank?
>
No.
>- I noticed that Van's sells a solid access plate if you are not using the float
sender holes. Any reason whay a piece of metal can't be riveted/sealed over
the sender opening? Trying to avoid another handling fee and 2 week ship time.
>
I used the old cover, with the piece cut out (see above) as a template
to make a new cover out of scrap 063. Took about 15 minutes and saved
the time/cost from Vans. I would not rivet it on, as you will want to
be able to remove it to get access to the tank. I used the rubberized
cork gaskets, gooped up with form-a-gasket, and liberal use of fuelube
on the screws. No leaks or weaps yet (after two months with gas in the
tanks, time will tell...) Also, junk the black rubber gaskets supplied
with the senders. These have been a source of leaks to many builders.
I prosealed my senders right in- leak free, and not terribly difficult
to remove, should I ever need to replace a sender
>
>- Any other special parts needed for the tank completion?
>
Lots and lots of proseal. If a little is good, a lot is better, and way
too much is just right. ;)
Lots and lots of surgical gloves. I went through 3 or 4 boxes of 50.
Lots and lots of patience.
Jeff Point
RV-6 Flying! (for three days now)
Milwaukee WI
Message 84
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Dan,
Weight and balance differs from one RV design to the other for a number
reasons.
An RV 6 with an O-320-XXX and a wooden prop will in all likelihood be prone
to being tail heavy.
The RV8 with a 200 HP engine and a Hartzell prop will probably need to have
the battery etc. moved rearward to control weight and balance.
In regard to the question of weight distribution for nose wheel and tail
wheel aircraft it pretty much turns out to be a wash. With a quick but close
look you will see that the apparently heavy nose gear is compensated for by
the more rearward positioned main gear.
It turns out that how the RV is equipped component and accessory wise plays
a far bigger role in determining weight and balance issues that basic
inherent desin differences such as nose wheel versus tail wheel.
How's the building going? My wiring is almost complete, onto the upholstery
soon!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > If you have serious doubts about your masculinity, by all means go for
the
> > 8. It seems to make some guys feel better about themselves and these
days
> > that's really important. Otherwise, an 8A does everything just a little
> > better.
>
> I'm just playing devil's advocate here, with the best of intentions
> (hopefully). I heard from a local RV-8A builder/pilot that he had to add
> about 8 or 9 pounds of ballast LEAD in the tail to get it to balance out
> right.
>
> Is there any truth to this? Is this common? Would the taildragger be
> better off CG-wise due to the lack of heavy nosegear & bit of extra weight
> in the tailwheel? Could you avoid adding ballast with a taildragger?
>
> Just curious -- really, I'm not trying to fight the tail-vs-nose war here.
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
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