Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:14 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Jim Sears)
2. 04:31 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
3. 05:04 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Bob)
4. 05:53 AM - Re: Flop Tube - Which Tank (Gary Zilik)
5. 06:19 AM - Re: Defective Flap Actuator (Scott Bilinski)
6. 06:47 AM - stick/rudder lock (pcondon)
7. 07:32 AM - Re: Difficult to drill rivets cleanly. (Dave Bristol)
8. 07:38 AM - Re: Re:Defective Flap Actuator (Albert Gardner)
9. 07:40 AM - Re: Re:Defective Flap Actuator (Dave Bristol)
10. 07:52 AM - job offer (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
11. 07:53 AM - Some questions from a new guy (Ken Brooks)
12. 08:37 AM - Re: stick/rudder lock (Ross Mickey)
13. 08:37 AM - Re: Difficult to drill rivets cleanly. (Steve Eberhart)
14. 09:37 AM - Re: Engine monitoring (kempthornes)
15. 09:56 AM - Re: Engine monitoring (Bruce Gray)
16. 10:02 AM - Re: job offer (John)
17. 10:27 AM - SV: For Sale - RV-6 Almost done with a panel to die for (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
18. 11:18 AM - Re: stick/rudder lock (Jason Sneed)
19. 11:23 AM - Re: job offer (Phil Sisson,)
20. 11:33 AM - Re: Engine monitoring (Trampas)
21. 11:35 AM - Re: Engine monitoring (Terry Watson)
22. 11:45 AM - Re: stick/rudder lock (Terry Watson)
23. 11:48 AM - Re: job offer (BRUCE GRAY)
24. 12:32 PM - Re: job offer (Ken Balch)
25. 04:34 PM - Workshop to paint shed conversion (Jordan Grant)
26. 05:06 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Doug Rozendaal)
27. 05:30 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Alex Peterson)
28. 06:26 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Larry Pardue)
29. 07:13 PM - UHMW on Baffles (Larry Bowen)
30. 07:15 PM - Re: Alternative Strobes ()
31. 07:28 PM - Great RV-6A for sale (Doug Weiler)
32. 07:44 PM - F1 Rocket QB wings for sale (VFT@aol.com)
33. 10:30 PM - Re: stick/rudder lock (Mickey Coggins)
34. 10:57 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Jeff Dowling)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> Actually Dan, The guy had to add 8 or 9 pounds of lead to his shorts. It
> turns out he was lacking in cohones, hence the tri-gear!
Cute; but, it doesn't add much to the discussion. I love to read what some
of the tail dragger guys say about their macho behavior. I wonder how many
of those who speak out thusly have had the guts to put that macho feeling
into use by flying something that takes real gonads, like a military jet in
the armed forces (which most likely is a tri-gear :-) ). Folks, those are
the guys who are well equiped with guts and macho. I don't even want to try
to walk in their shoes; so, I don't try to display macho on the list because
I know I don't have what they have. The US government had to drag me into
the Army kicking and screaming in the sixties mainly because I didn't feel
like it was time for me to die. I hadn't lived, yet! Those guys thrive on
the stuff!
With that said, I'm a timid pilot who is satisfied to fly straight and level
with not much turbulance. I even stay out of the nose bleed section because
I don't feel comfortable up there, these days. Showing macho in my aircraft
choices didn't rate way up the scale. I looked at the tail wheel vs nose
wheel decision in the same manner I looked at the tip up vs the slider.
Which is better for my mission? As it turned out, I chose a tri-gear with
a tip up canopy for my mission and have been very happy with my choices.
The tri-gear takes a lot of the fear of ground looping away. Then, there's
that chance of a tip over in the tail dragger. I guess that's why the
tri-gear has better resale value. (Maybe even cheaper insurance rates?)
There are more of us who don't want to be bothered with worrying about those
things. It's kinda like the automobiles you see in the new car lots, today.
Very few have straight shifts because the younger set has no idea how to
shift gears. The dealers give the customers what they want.
I chose the tip up canopy because I don't like standing on my head to do
maintenance under the panel. I did that for 9+ years with my Cheetah and
didn't like it. I didn't want it on my RV. Yeah, the Cheetah had a slider.
A better one than on the RV. It was neat; but, it was not an essential item
for my RV.
Now, I sit here thinking about my next project. I'm torn between the -7 and
the -7A. In fact, it's been a major point in my procrastination on starting
the next project. Why is that for someone who really doesn't desire a tail
dragger? I've found that I'm really too short for a -7A. The first step
into a -7A is a pretty tall one for a short guy like me, even with the steps
installed. With the tail dragger, I have a good chance of being able to get
into, and out of, it without breaking a bone, or two. If I choose the -7,
it will again be out of need for convenience, rather that having someone
think of me as a "real" pilot. With just under 2000 hours logged with no
accidents, I guess I'm "real" enough for me. :-)
One problem in my decision making process is getting past the nose over that
can happen with the tail dragger. I know I'll have to lose the nose gear in
a tri-gear before I'm going to tip it over. Not so, with a tail dragger.
However, Pat Patterson and I have been talking about that. We've seen what
can happen to the -8 because we did have one tip over at Pat's field. The
builder hit the brakes a tad too hard and didn't have enough ballast in the
back. It was a costly mistake. I don't want that happening to me because I
do sometimes tap the brakes pretty hard to make a turn off or stop on a
short field that I've landed a tad long on. Pat feels that I can put the
binders on pretty hard before the -7 will tip over. I'm thinking he's
right.
I may go with the -7 so that I can get in and out of the airplane better. I
have no intentions of proving I'm macho. I'm too old to pretend to be that.
I just need something that's easier for me to get in and out of. The new
tri-gears don't lend themselves well to that; and, I now know that I can't
put -6A gear legs in a -7A because of the gear diameter differences. Drat!
Fortunately, I still have time to think about the gear situation. I have a
new shop to build and two RV kits to get through before I have to worry
about which fuse kit to order. Hopefully, I'll have things ironed out, by
then. I may even have a tail wheel endorsement. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
EAA Tech Counselor
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 3/17/04 7:56:25 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
> I'm just playing devil's advocate here, with the best of intentions
> (hopefully). I heard from a local RV-8A builder/pilot that he had to add
> about 8 or 9 pounds of ballast LEAD in the tail to get it to balance out
> right.
>
> Is there any truth to this? Is this common? Would the taildragger be
> better off CG-wise due to the lack of heavy nosegear &bit of extra weight
> in the tailwheel? Could you avoid adding ballast with a taildragger?
>
> Just curious -- really, I'm not trying to fight the tail-vs-nose war here.
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Dan,
I haven't weighed my RV-7A with the IO-360 and Van's Hartzell up front yet,
but Van's says it will be OK.
Remember the heavy main gear gets moved aft. Maybe that's enough to offset
moving the tailwheel to the front.
Regards,
another Dan
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <rv3@comcast.net>
Jim Sears wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
>
>
>
>
>>Actually Dan, The guy had to add 8 or 9 pounds of lead to his shorts. It
>>turns out he was lacking in cohones, hence the tri-gear!
>>
>>
>
>Cute; but, it doesn't add much to the discussion. I love to read what some
>of the tail dragger guys say about their macho behavior. I wonder how many
>of those who speak out thusly have had the guts to put that macho feeling
>into use by flying something that takes real gonads, like a military jet in
>the armed forces (which most likely is a tri-gear :-) ). Folks, those are
>the guys who are well equiped with guts and macho. I don't even want to try
>to walk in their shoes; so, I don't try to display macho on the list because
>I know I don't have what they have. The US government had to drag me into
>the Army kicking and screaming in the sixties mainly because I didn't feel
>like it was time for me to die. I hadn't lived, yet! Those guys thrive on
>the stuff!
>
===============================================
Wondering out loud....
I've been a taildragger pilot since 1952.
I've been a nosedragger pilot since 1959.
I enlisted in the USAF in the 50's and even enjoyed USAF pilot training.
machismo n.
1. A strong or exaggerated sense of masculinity stressing attributes
such as physical courage, virility, domination of women, and
aggressiveness.
2. An exaggerated sense of strength or toughness
Oh well....
Leaves me out, since I only dream about dominating women. :-) :-) :-)
Bob - RV3 cojones driver
Do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Flop Tube - Which Tank |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
Yes! It is very important that you put the flop tube in the tank than
has fuel in it.
Gary
Do Not Archive
tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
>All,
>
>More stupid questions for the list...
>
>- If I am installing a flop tube in just one tank...does it matter which one?
>
>- Since I am using float senders, I know I will need to install the sender in
the flop tube tank in the 2nd bay. I understand that I use the regular cover
plate as a template to drill/cut the sender opening in the baffle. Any other
modifications that are needed? Is there any specific orientation that the sender
must be in the 2nd bay? Is there a best method for making the cutout in the
baffle?
>
>- Does the vent tube get moved at all with the flop tube tank?
>
>- I noticed that Van's sells a solid access plate if you are not using the float
sender holes. Any reason whay a piece of metal can't be riveted/sealed over
the sender opening? Trying to avoid another handling fee and 2 week ship time.
>
>- Any other special parts needed for the tank completion?
>
>Sorry for all the questions.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
>7A Wings
>
>Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
>The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Defective Flap Actuator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>Although I'm not real pleased with an actuator design that holds itself
>together with 10 or so threads and some loctite, both Vans and Usher told me
>that they'd never encountered this problem before.
>
>Any thoughts?
There are different types of Loctite out there some are removable some are
not. If you REALLY dont want it to come apart use Loctite bearing retainer.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 6
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| Subject: | stick/rudder lock |
--> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
For .49 cents, get a new, white PVC elbow from the hardware store and put a
piece of old safety belt webbing on one end. A 16 to 18 inch piece of
webbing (Loews and Home Depo also has this webbing) screwed with some
washers to one end of the elbow is all it takes. Slip the other end of the
elbow ever the passenger stick (top) and loop the real aircraft passenger
safety belt thru the elbow belt webbing, snug the real safety belt (after
latching). (Takes less time to do this then it took to read this
blather.....) FWIW I found some orange webbing and used SS #10
screws.....looks good, weighs nothing, costs nothing and works.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Difficult to drill rivets cleanly. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Drilling through the rivet might work on big rivets but it's difficult
to use that technique on #3's or 4"s without damaging the hole. The best
way that I've found is to use a drill the same size as the hole and
drill only through the rivet HEAD then using a punch the size of the
hole (with a sharp edge) pop the rivet head off, and using a little
smaller punch, tap the rivet shank out of the hole. This avoids
excessive damage to the hole.
Dave Bristol RV6 Flying So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Rob W M Shipley wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
>
>
>"Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com wrote: My experience drilling out rivets so far
is that its rarely
>"clean" and if you can avoid it you're better off going that
>way. Also there's two blind rivets between the tip rib and the
>end of the spar which, if I heed the many warnings I've seen,
>are very difficult to drill out. I'm not worried so much about
>the cosmetics of it, more the strength."
>
>For those who are finding rivet removal less than straightforward try my method.
No guarantees but it works for me. Drill a hole down through the center of
the rivet one size smaller than the rivet diameter and just barely through the
thickness of the parts it is holding together. If you have a lot to do a depth
stop can be useful here. Then with a variable speed drill running slowly
and using a bit slightly smaller than the rivet head at about a 45 deg. angle,
twist off the head. Now the shop head can now be twisted away with a high quality
pair of linesman's pliers. If this technique is mastered you'll cause
no damage to the hole. If the swelling rivet has slightly enlarged the hole take
the next length rivet and very gently give it a SLIGHT squeeze to increase
it's diameter a little and ensure a snug fit.
>Good luck
>Rob
>Rob W M Shipley
>N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re:Defective Flap Actuator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
The rod end bearing screwed out the end of my flap actuator (because I had
not secured it as the plans suggest) on final one day. Makes a big 'thunk'
as you go from full to no flaps. With some altitude it's no big deal but I
wouldn't want it to happen down close. With that experience behind me I
don't adjust the flaps either on TO or landing when I'm low.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re:Defective Flap Actuator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Yep, ya just can't beat manual flaps and tailwheels for simplicity and
ease of maintenance! (Also ease of use but then we most likely shouldn't
go there!) :>)
Dave
do not archive (it's probably already been done!)
Jerry2DT@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>
>What is it about flap problems? When our flap motor quit twice in 30 hrs due
>to crud in the brushes, I called Motion Systems, the manufacturer of ours, and
>they said "Gosh, never heard of that one before." Hard to believe I was the
>only one to call them after numerous failures I read about here. At least Van's
>admitted "There have been a few problems."
>
>What Geoff says below just reinforces my desire to go back to manual flaps.
>The only rational view I've heard for electric is they save space between the
>seats for the side-by-sides.
>
>Sorry, had to vent...do not archive.
>
>Jerry Cochran
>
><<Although I'm not real pleased with an actuator design that holds itself
>together with 10 or so threads and some loctite, both Vans and Usher told me
>that they'd never encountered this problem before.
>
>Any thoughts?
>
>-Geoff
>RV-8 QB>>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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|
"Rv-List@Matronics. Com" <rv-list@matronics.com>,
"Rv9-List@Matronics. Com" <rv9-list@matronics.com>,
"Rv8-List@Matronics. Com" <rv8-list@matronics.com>,
<kitfox-list@matronics.com>, <RV6-List@matronics.com>,
<rv7-list@matronics.com>, <zenith-list@matronics.com>,
<avionics-list@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
I am posting this to all the RV lists so if you get duplicates dont be
upset.
It is that time for me at Blue Sky Aviation to add another set of
experienced hands. I am looking for someone with prior building experience,
A&P would be nice, along with private pilot ticket. Must be trustworthy,
hard working, reliable, and a good eye for detail.
If you are or know of someone, please have him or her give me a call or drop
me an email. This is a full time permanent position and is available
immediately.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel@blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net
Message 11
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| Subject: | Some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
Carroll wrote. . ."Stick with the A. You can find a lot of pictures of RVs
on their back and
more often than not there are two wheels sticking up, not three."
Hey Carroll, you just saw the last photo in the sequence! The previous ones
show the nose wheel snapping off when it hits the gopher hole!
C'mon, I've had 4 cups of coffee and am ready for a fight. I'm donning
nomex. . .flame thrower in standby mode. . .
Do not archive this silliness
Ken in Roscoe
Message 12
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| Subject: | stick/rudder lock |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
This works for the elevators but what about the rudder?
Ross
N9PT
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> For .49 cents, get a new, white PVC elbow from the hardware
> store and put a piece of old safety belt webbing on one end.
> A 16 to 18 inch piece of webbing (Loews and Home Depo also
> has this webbing) screwed with some washers to one end of the
> elbow is all it takes. Slip the other end of the elbow ever
> the passenger stick (top) and loop the real aircraft
> passenger safety belt thru the elbow belt webbing, snug the
> real safety belt (after latching). (Takes less time to do
> this then it took to read this
> blather.....) FWIW I found some orange webbing and used SS
> #10 screws.....looks good, weighs nothing, costs nothing and works.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Difficult to drill rivets cleanly. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steve Eberhart <steve@newtech.com>
I have a flat 1/2" wide sharp wood carvers chisel that easily slices off
the shop head. A pin punch can usually punch out the bad rivet. THere
are places where it works great and some where punching out the rivet
can damage the skins. Just an FYI.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - still working on wings.
Dave Bristol wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> Drilling through the rivet might work on big rivets but it's difficult
> to use that technique on #3's or 4"s without damaging the hole. The best
> way that I've found is to use a drill the same size as the hole and
> drill only through the rivet HEAD then using a punch the size of the
> hole (with a sharp edge) pop the rivet head off, and using a little
> smaller punch, tap the rivet shank out of the hole. This avoids
> excessive damage to the hole.
>
> Dave Bristol RV6 Flying So Cal
> EAA Technical Counselor
>
> Rob W M Shipley wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
>>
>>
>>"Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com wrote: My experience drilling out rivets so far
is that its rarely
>>"clean" and if you can avoid it you're better off going that
>>way. Also there's two blind rivets between the tip rib and the
>>end of the spar which, if I heed the many warnings I've seen,
>>are very difficult to drill out. I'm not worried so much about
>>the cosmetics of it, more the strength."
>>
>>For those who are finding rivet removal less than straightforward try my method.
No guarantees but it works for me. Drill a hole down through the center
of the rivet one size smaller than the rivet diameter and just barely through
the thickness of the parts it is holding together. If you have a lot to do a
depth stop can be useful here. Then with a variable speed drill running slowly
and using a bit slightly smaller than the rivet head at about a 45 deg. angle,
twist off the head. Now the shop head can now be twisted away with a high
quality pair of linesman's pliers. If this technique is mastered you'll cause
no damage to the hole. If the swelling rivet has slightly enlarged the hole
take the next length rivet and very gently give it a SLIGHT squeeze to increase
it's diameter a little and ensure a snug fit.
>>Good luck
>>Rob
>>Rob W M Shipley
>>N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
A beautiful instrument but priced for what? Learjets?
I want a 3" instrument that shows what I need to know. I don't need to
know that all four egts are in the green as are all four chts. I don't
need to know that both fuel tanks are at least half full. Don't show me a
clock so I can see a trend, advise me if there is an ugly trend in progress
etc etc.
I don't want to see data - I want to see information! For less than $500.
hal (retired software engineer)
At 11:58 AM 3/17/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
>www.sterntech.com
>
>Regards,
>Trampas Stern
>
>Stern Technologies
>4321 Waterwheel Dr
>Raleigh NC 27606
>919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice)
>919-832-8441 (fax)
>www.sterntech.com
>tstern@sterntech.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil McLeod
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
>
>Do you have a web site?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
>I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now
>shipping!
>
>It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine
>up
>to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors
>calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it.
>
>If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me.
>
>Regards,
>Trampas Stern
>1-877-820-6590
>
>
>==
>==
>==
>==
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
The problem with that approach is that you still need to see the raw
data to confirm that a true alarm condition exists. What you want can be
done with 'idiot lights'.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kempthornes
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
A beautiful instrument but priced for what? Learjets?
I want a 3" instrument that shows what I need to know. I don't need to
know that all four egts are in the green as are all four chts. I don't
need to know that both fuel tanks are at least half full. Don't show me
a
clock so I can see a trend, advise me if there is an ugly trend in
progress
etc etc.
I don't want to see data - I want to see information! For less than
$500.
hal (retired software engineer)
At 11:58 AM 3/17/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
>www.sterntech.com
>
>Regards,
>Trampas Stern
>
>Stern Technologies
>4321 Waterwheel Dr
>Raleigh NC 27606
>919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice)
>919-832-8441 (fax)
>www.sterntech.com
>tstern@sterntech.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil McLeod
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
>
>Do you have a web site?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
>I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now
>shipping!
>
>It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine
>up
>to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors
>calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it.
>
>If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me.
>
>Regards,
>Trampas Stern
>1-877-820-6590
>
>
>==
>==
>==
>==
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
...(he) must be trustworthy, hard working, reliable, and a good eye for
detail.....
Hey, hire me and I'll help you look for someone like that !
John
Message 17
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| Subject: | For Sale - RV-6 Almost done with a panel to die for |
--> RV-List message posted by:
Hi
Srry if I dubble the mail - did it work the other day?
Ok - Your Rv still for sale? If so please some info!? Will you be at Sun
and Fun ? I will show up and try to find something "exiting" !
All the best
Goran Wintzell
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Frn: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] Fr Tim Bryan
Skickat: den 20 december 2003 06:31
Till: rv-list@matronics.com
mne: RV-List: For Sale - RV-6 Almost done with a panel to die for
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <Tim@bryantechnology.com>
Listers,
My RV-6 is for sale. It is almost done.
Sheet metal work is pretty much done, Canopy is pretty much done except
for
fiberglass.
Cowling is cut and fitted but hinges not on permanent, Engine is
installed,
baffles are fitted and installed but no chaffe rubber yet, panel
installed
complete, wiring done, wings test fitted.
0-360A1A Lycoming from Aerosport, New Constant Speed prop from Vans
I have everything to finish this airplane except the paint.
Serious buyers contact me off list for further details.
Tim Bryan
tim@bryantechnology.com
Redmond, Oregon
==
==
==
==
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
I use a bungee with clips on both ends run it around the stick to hold
a full aft-right position. Bought a container of bungees from home depo
for $4. I clip to the back of the seat or anywhere I see fit.
JS
On Mar 18, 2004, at 10:37 AM, Ross Mickey wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
>
> This works for the elevators but what about the rudder?
>
> Ross
> N9PT
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>
>> For .49 cents, get a new, white PVC elbow from the hardware
>> store and put a piece of old safety belt webbing on one end.
>> A 16 to 18 inch piece of webbing (Loews and Home Depo also
>> has this webbing) screwed with some washers to one end of the
>> elbow is all it takes. Slip the other end of the elbow ever
>> the passenger stick (top) and loop the real aircraft
>> passenger safety belt thru the elbow belt webbing, snug the
>> real safety belt (after latching). (Takes less time to do
>> this then it took to read this
>> blather.....) FWIW I found some orange webbing and used SS
>> #10 screws.....looks good, weighs nothing, costs nothing and works.
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson," <sisson@consolidated.net>
Where is this position located?
tnx, Phil
Message 20
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| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
My philosophy is fairly simple, in that the purpose of engine monitoring is
to prevent two things, your death and harming the engine.
The difference between the Pulsar 200 and other engine monitors on the
market is you get to decide what you want to monitor and want to alarm on.
That is the Pulsar is a blank slate that you can easily define what you want
to see, how you want to see it.
For example if you want to only have an oil pressure alarm when the
tachometer is above 500RPMs you can easily do that, if you do not like the
analog gauges and want to show all the data as digital only, you can do
that. If you want to add a humidity sensor to the unit, you can do it. If
you want to alarm when the left and right magneto are reading different by
more than 100RPMs you can do that.
It is really hard to explain the unit, other than to say it is a data
acquisition box, with a built in programmable calculator with display and
data logging capabilities.
For all you engineers and software developers out there, imagine an engine
monitor where you could program how it works, what it shows, and how it
shows it, then Pulsar is that engine monitor.
That is the Pulsar is not an engine monitor, it is your engine monitor the
way you want it.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
The problem with that approach is that you still need to see the raw
data to confirm that a true alarm condition exists. What you want can be
done with 'idiot lights'.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kempthornes
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
A beautiful instrument but priced for what? Learjets?
I want a 3" instrument that shows what I need to know. I don't need to
know that all four egts are in the green as are all four chts. I don't
need to know that both fuel tanks are at least half full. Don't show me
a
clock so I can see a trend, advise me if there is an ugly trend in
progress
etc etc.
I don't want to see data - I want to see information! For less than
$500.
hal (retired software engineer)
At 11:58 AM 3/17/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
>www.sterntech.com
>
>Regards,
>Trampas Stern
>
>Stern Technologies
>4321 Waterwheel Dr
>Raleigh NC 27606
>919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice)
>919-832-8441 (fax)
>www.sterntech.com
>tstern@sterntech.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil McLeod
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
>
>Do you have a web site?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
>I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now
>shipping!
>
>It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine
>up
>to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors
>calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it.
>
>If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me.
>
>Regards,
>Trampas Stern
>1-877-820-6590
>
>
>==
>==
>==
>==
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 21
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| Subject: | Engine monitoring |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Hal,
This doesn't answer your desire for less than $500, but check out Blue
Mountain EFIS/one's approach. You don't see the engine instruments on the
screen unless you want to, OR one of them goes outside of the range you have
set for it. Then it pops up to alert you. It records all engine instruments
and all flight data every 5 seconds and allows you to download it onto a
Compact Flash card and run it through software to display trends or whatever
else you want to look at, and you can get it from Van's.
Terry
RV-8A wiring
Seattle
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
A beautiful instrument but priced for what? Learjets?
I want a 3" instrument that shows what I need to know. I don't need to
know that all four egts are in the green as are all four chts. I don't
need to know that both fuel tanks are at least half full. Don't show me a
clock so I can see a trend, advise me if there is an ugly trend in progress
etc etc.
I don't want to see data - I want to see information! For less than $500.
hal (retired software engineer)
Message 22
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| Subject: | stick/rudder lock |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Here's how Mike Robbins did it in his RV-8. Scroll down and you will see
pictures of his rear seat stick lock and his rudder lock.
http://www.rv-8.com/MikeRobbins.htm
Terry
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
John, What are you looking for this individual to do? If the person has the
passion for the task at hand or job you may find a whole lot of people
willing. Long term? Rate of pay? And qualifications needed for this potion?
Thanks, Bruce
>From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: job offer Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 11:00:35 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
>...(he) must be trustworthy, hard working, reliable, and a good eye for
>detail.....
>
>
>Hey, hire me and I'll help you look for someone like that !
>
>John
>
>
http://moneycentral.msn.com/tax/home.asp
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch@cfl.rr.com>
Is the position in Lewistown, MT? That'll cut way down on the possible
takers...
Ken
do not archive
BRUCE GRAY wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
>
>John, What are you looking for this individual to do? If the person has the
>passion for the task at hand or job you may find a whole lot of people
>willing. Long term? Rate of pay? And qualifications needed for this potion?
>Thanks, Bruce
>
>
>
>
>>From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: job offer Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 11:00:35 -0700
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>>
>>...(he) must be trustworthy, hard working, reliable, and a good eye for
>>detail.....
>>
>>
>>Hey, hire me and I'll help you look for someone like that !
>>
>>John
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>http://moneycentral.msn.com/tax/home.asp
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Workshop to paint shed conversion |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Listers:
I am about to build a 24'x32' workshop behind my home. After the building
is complete, I plan to use it as a dedicated paint shed to paint my RV-6.
After that's finished, I plan to turn it into a full-up workshop. My
question is for the experienced painters out there. What can I do to have
the best and safest paint shed possible (within budgetary reason, of course)
using this building? Specific areas I'm thinking about:
1. Ventilation
2. Dust/bug prevention
3. Lighting
Has anyone out there successfully turned their home
workshop/garage/outbuilding into a dedicated paint shed?
Thanks for your help,
Jordan Grant
RV6 N198G (Reserved)
Fuel system and workshop building
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
My gut hunch is, based on how many wrecked -A models I am aware of, and when
you consider that most RVs are T/W, I would suspect the landing accidents vs
hours flown is worse for the -As than the T/W versions. Just a hunch, not
data to back that up......
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie & Tupper England" <cengland@netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England
<cengland@netdoor.com>
>
> Actually, that's probably why he only saw 2 in the air. :-)
>
> Seriously, (for new guys who don't know), the reason bush planes usually
> *don't* have nose wheels is because it's very difficult to make a nose
> gear strut & mount that can take the stress of hitting ruts, rocks, etc
> without folding. Nose gear planes are much more likely to end up on
> their backs in an off-field landing.
>
> Of course, using that info as a basis for your choice only makes sense
> if you intend to fly off of rough strips on a regular basis.
> I started flying a taildragger to compensate for my feelings of
> inadequacy (of money).
> Charlie
> learned in a Luscombe, flying a -4, working on -7 (no A) wings
>
>
> klwerner@comcast.net wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: <klwerner@comcast.net>
> >
> >Dearest Carroll,
> >
> >You must have failed math class, because on all current Vans designs
there are three wheels (no matter what preference one might have on the
training wheel end location). And for what it is worth: "A's" have been
seen on their backs too after the nose gear folds in!
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >Konrad
> >(6-Alpha)
> >
> >no offense / do not archive
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Trainnut01@aol.com
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 10:31 AM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
> >
> > Eddie
> > Stick with the A. You can find a lot of pictures of RVs on their back
and
> > more often than not there are two wheels sticking up, not three.
> >
> > Carroll Jernigan
> > RV-7A Wings
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> My gut hunch is, based on how many wrecked -A models I am
> aware of, and when you consider that most RVs are T/W, I
> would suspect the landing accidents vs hours flown is worse
> for the -As than the T/W versions. Just a hunch, not data to
> back that up......
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> Do not archive
Insurance folks should know this - JT, do you have any data on this?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
> My gut hunch is, based on how many wrecked -A models I am aware of, and
when
> you consider that most RVs are T/W, I would suspect the landing accidents
vs
> hours flown is worse for the -As than the T/W versions. Just a hunch, not
> data to back that up......
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> Do not archive
No statistically significant data here either but the only two RV's in my
area that I know of that had accidents on the first flight were both A
models that ended up on their backs on paved runways. The pilot may be more
important than the gear configuration.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 29
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I see in the archives that Scott McDaniels likes to put UHMW tape on the
baffles where they contact the cylinder heads to reduce wear and tear on
the baffles. Is anybody else doing this?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 30
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| Subject: | Alternative Strobes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Reposting for Larry's request...
--- On Sun 01/18, Radomir Zaric < radomirz@vitez.net > wrote:
From: Radomir Zaric [mailto: radomirz@vitez.net]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Alternative Strobes
As for Aeroflash tail position/strobe, I think this is what you'd be
looking for:
http://www.aeroflash.com/plane.html#tailposition
(PS.. I didn't find this listed on ACS site).
Going with this whole Aeroflash set... the price difference between it
and the Whelen system is not all that much (something like $570 vs.
$780).
Some folks on the list have cast their doubts in the Aeroflash setup as
not being bright enough... but I wouldn't know for sure, as I have no
experience with 'em.
Also, what I saw in the archives was that someone was using this PS:
(http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/11/1808.htm?326)
Even going with this one, the savings over Whelen are not all that
exciting :(
While I'm not there yet, my understanding is that you wouldn't have to
have two conduits for strobes and landing lights... However, this would
be a must with a wingtip mounted antenna -- where the
interference would
be noticeable.
HTH.
Radomir
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]
Subject: RV-List: Alternative Strobes
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
I'va heard lots about some alternative strobe sources from
strobes-n-more, but I have been haing a hard time understanding what I
need in looking at their website. I am looking to have a setup similar
to the Whelan "System 6" (nav/strobe on wings, position/strobe on tail).
I am also considering Aeroflash, but the only solution I can seem to
find is nav/strobe on wings and position on tail (no 3 strobe power).
Anyone have a non-Whelan solution (part numbers would be great) that is
equivalent to System 6?
Also, since i will have nav/strobes and duckworks lights
in the wings,
do I not need to drill two separate conduit holes to separate the strobe
lines (for noise)? Right now i am drilling holes low and aft of the 1st
lightening hole (per the recent thread).
Thanks,
Scott Haskins
RV7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
==
==
==
.com
==
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Great RV-6A for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
Fellow Listers:
Dick Nordquist, one of our local MN Wing members has just put up his RV-6A
for sale. This is a nice, neat clean -6A, with impeccable workmanship.
Here's a link to the website with all the details. Please take a look!!
Thanks
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/N666RN/
Message 32
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f1builders@lists.cc.utexas.edu
| Subject: | F1 Rocket QB wings for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: VFT@aol.com
FOR SALE
Complete F1 Rocket QB wing set including all related parts (fairings, tips, etc)
and hardware. Asking $12K, will crate and ship anywhere within the continental
U.S.
Danny Melnik
F1 #25
Melbourne (FL) Rocket Factory
407-687-3126
Message 33
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| Subject: | stick/rudder lock |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>Here's how Mike Robbins did it in his RV-8. Scroll down and you will see
>pictures of his rear seat stick lock and his rudder lock.
>http://www.rv-8.com/MikeRobbins.htm
http://www.rv-8.com/MikeRobbins/GustLock.JPG
That's very cool. Something similar installed
in the front, connected to one or both rudder
pedals would be *perfect*! :-)
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I cant resist.
If were going to question masculinity, why get a tandem in the first place?
If the extra 3 knots is the answer, ok. Otherwise, its all about looking
cool. A side by side wins in every other way.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
58 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> Eddie,
>
> If you have serious doubts about your masculinity, by all means go for the
> 8. It seems to make some guys feel better about themselves and these days
> that's really important. Otherwise, an 8A does everything just a little
> better.
>
> I am a very slow 8A builder in the Seattle area, Lake Forest Park.
>
> Terry
> RV-8A # 80729 wiring
> N838T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Brooks
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
>
> Eddie, there's still time! It's an RV-8, not 8-A that you want! Don't
risk
> "Tail-Dragger" envy for years to come! Come over from the Dark Side and
fly
> a real airplane. You'll never regret it! ;-) But, . . .if it will give
you
> severe angst, then. . .I guess it's better than a spam can. As for your
> question about "How long will it take?", oh. . .anywhere between 89 days
and
> 15 years! Your energy, discipline and wallet will determine the answer.
> Notice I didn't mention skill. If you can drive a nail straight, with
> practice you can rivet together an RV-8, er, I mean RV. It's just harder
to
> imagine that you're in a P-51 sitting level on the tarmac. Welcome to the
> club and get that order into Van's. Whadda ya wait'n fer, boy??
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> Ken Brooks
> 6.5 years and counting (with a QB, no less!)
> Roscoe, IL
> N1903P (yes, for the Wright Bros.)
>
>
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