---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 03/18/04: 34 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:14 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Jim Sears) 2. 04:31 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 3. 05:04 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Bob) 4. 05:53 AM - Re: Flop Tube - Which Tank (Gary Zilik) 5. 06:19 AM - Re: Defective Flap Actuator (Scott Bilinski) 6. 06:47 AM - stick/rudder lock (pcondon) 7. 07:32 AM - Re: Difficult to drill rivets cleanly. (Dave Bristol) 8. 07:38 AM - Re: Re:Defective Flap Actuator (Albert Gardner) 9. 07:40 AM - Re: Re:Defective Flap Actuator (Dave Bristol) 10. 07:52 AM - job offer (Noel & Yoshie Simmons) 11. 07:53 AM - Some questions from a new guy (Ken Brooks) 12. 08:37 AM - Re: stick/rudder lock (Ross Mickey) 13. 08:37 AM - Re: Difficult to drill rivets cleanly. (Steve Eberhart) 14. 09:37 AM - Re: Engine monitoring (kempthornes) 15. 09:56 AM - Re: Engine monitoring (Bruce Gray) 16. 10:02 AM - Re: job offer (John) 17. 10:27 AM - SV: For Sale - RV-6 Almost done with a panel to die for (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com) 18. 11:18 AM - Re: stick/rudder lock (Jason Sneed) 19. 11:23 AM - Re: job offer (Phil Sisson,) 20. 11:33 AM - Re: Engine monitoring (Trampas) 21. 11:35 AM - Re: Engine monitoring (Terry Watson) 22. 11:45 AM - Re: stick/rudder lock (Terry Watson) 23. 11:48 AM - Re: job offer (BRUCE GRAY) 24. 12:32 PM - Re: job offer (Ken Balch) 25. 04:34 PM - Workshop to paint shed conversion (Jordan Grant) 26. 05:06 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Doug Rozendaal) 27. 05:30 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Alex Peterson) 28. 06:26 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Larry Pardue) 29. 07:13 PM - UHMW on Baffles (Larry Bowen) 30. 07:15 PM - Re: Alternative Strobes () 31. 07:28 PM - Great RV-6A for sale (Doug Weiler) 32. 07:44 PM - F1 Rocket QB wings for sale (VFT@aol.com) 33. 10:30 PM - Re: stick/rudder lock (Mickey Coggins) 34. 10:57 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Jeff Dowling) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:14:25 AM PST US From: Jim Sears Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears > Actually Dan, The guy had to add 8 or 9 pounds of lead to his shorts. It > turns out he was lacking in cohones, hence the tri-gear! Cute; but, it doesn't add much to the discussion. I love to read what some of the tail dragger guys say about their macho behavior. I wonder how many of those who speak out thusly have had the guts to put that macho feeling into use by flying something that takes real gonads, like a military jet in the armed forces (which most likely is a tri-gear :-) ). Folks, those are the guys who are well equiped with guts and macho. I don't even want to try to walk in their shoes; so, I don't try to display macho on the list because I know I don't have what they have. The US government had to drag me into the Army kicking and screaming in the sixties mainly because I didn't feel like it was time for me to die. I hadn't lived, yet! Those guys thrive on the stuff! With that said, I'm a timid pilot who is satisfied to fly straight and level with not much turbulance. I even stay out of the nose bleed section because I don't feel comfortable up there, these days. Showing macho in my aircraft choices didn't rate way up the scale. I looked at the tail wheel vs nose wheel decision in the same manner I looked at the tip up vs the slider. Which is better for my mission? As it turned out, I chose a tri-gear with a tip up canopy for my mission and have been very happy with my choices. The tri-gear takes a lot of the fear of ground looping away. Then, there's that chance of a tip over in the tail dragger. I guess that's why the tri-gear has better resale value. (Maybe even cheaper insurance rates?) There are more of us who don't want to be bothered with worrying about those things. It's kinda like the automobiles you see in the new car lots, today. Very few have straight shifts because the younger set has no idea how to shift gears. The dealers give the customers what they want. I chose the tip up canopy because I don't like standing on my head to do maintenance under the panel. I did that for 9+ years with my Cheetah and didn't like it. I didn't want it on my RV. Yeah, the Cheetah had a slider. A better one than on the RV. It was neat; but, it was not an essential item for my RV. Now, I sit here thinking about my next project. I'm torn between the -7 and the -7A. In fact, it's been a major point in my procrastination on starting the next project. Why is that for someone who really doesn't desire a tail dragger? I've found that I'm really too short for a -7A. The first step into a -7A is a pretty tall one for a short guy like me, even with the steps installed. With the tail dragger, I have a good chance of being able to get into, and out of, it without breaking a bone, or two. If I choose the -7, it will again be out of need for convenience, rather that having someone think of me as a "real" pilot. With just under 2000 hours logged with no accidents, I guess I'm "real" enough for me. :-) One problem in my decision making process is getting past the nose over that can happen with the tail dragger. I know I'll have to lose the nose gear in a tri-gear before I'm going to tip it over. Not so, with a tail dragger. However, Pat Patterson and I have been talking about that. We've seen what can happen to the -8 because we did have one tip over at Pat's field. The builder hit the brakes a tad too hard and didn't have enough ballast in the back. It was a costly mistake. I don't want that happening to me because I do sometimes tap the brakes pretty hard to make a turn off or stop on a short field that I've landed a tad long on. Pat feels that I can put the binders on pretty hard before the -7 will tip over. I'm thinking he's right. I may go with the -7 so that I can get in and out of the airplane better. I have no intentions of proving I'm macho. I'm too old to pretend to be that. I just need something that's easier for me to get in and out of. The new tri-gears don't lend themselves well to that; and, I now know that I can't put -6A gear legs in a -7A because of the gear diameter differences. Drat! Fortunately, I still have time to think about the gear situation. I have a new shop to build and two RV kits to get through before I have to worry about which fuse kit to order. Hopefully, I'll have things ironed out, by then. I may even have a tail wheel endorsement. :-) Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS (Scooter) EAA Tech Counselor do not archive ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:31:16 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com In a message dated 3/17/04 7:56:25 PM US Eastern Standard Time, dan@rvproject.com writes: > I'm just playing devil's advocate here, with the best of intentions > (hopefully). I heard from a local RV-8A builder/pilot that he had to add > about 8 or 9 pounds of ballast LEAD in the tail to get it to balance out > right. > > Is there any truth to this? Is this common? Would the taildragger be > better off CG-wise due to the lack of heavy nosegear &bit of extra weight > in the tailwheel? Could you avoid adding ballast with a taildragger? > > Just curious -- really, I'm not trying to fight the tail-vs-nose war here. > > do not archive > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D > http://www.rvproject.com > > Dan, I haven't weighed my RV-7A with the IO-360 and Van's Hartzell up front yet, but Van's says it will be OK. Remember the heavy main gear gets moved aft. Maybe that's enough to offset moving the tailwheel to the front. Regards, another Dan ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:04:15 AM PST US From: Bob Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Jim Sears wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears > > > > >>Actually Dan, The guy had to add 8 or 9 pounds of lead to his shorts. It >>turns out he was lacking in cohones, hence the tri-gear! >> >> > >Cute; but, it doesn't add much to the discussion. I love to read what some >of the tail dragger guys say about their macho behavior. I wonder how many >of those who speak out thusly have had the guts to put that macho feeling >into use by flying something that takes real gonads, like a military jet in >the armed forces (which most likely is a tri-gear :-) ). Folks, those are >the guys who are well equiped with guts and macho. I don't even want to try >to walk in their shoes; so, I don't try to display macho on the list because >I know I don't have what they have. The US government had to drag me into >the Army kicking and screaming in the sixties mainly because I didn't feel >like it was time for me to die. I hadn't lived, yet! Those guys thrive on >the stuff! > =============================================== Wondering out loud.... I've been a taildragger pilot since 1952. I've been a nosedragger pilot since 1959. I enlisted in the USAF in the 50's and even enjoyed USAF pilot training. machismo n. 1. A strong or exaggerated sense of masculinity stressing attributes such as physical courage, virility, domination of women, and aggressiveness. 2. An exaggerated sense of strength or toughness Oh well.... Leaves me out, since I only dream about dominating women. :-) :-) :-) Bob - RV3 cojones driver Do not archive ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:53:58 AM PST US From: Gary Zilik Subject: Re: RV-List: Flop Tube - Which Tank --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik Yes! It is very important that you put the flop tube in the tank than has fuel in it. Gary Do Not Archive tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "" > > >All, > >More stupid questions for the list... > >- If I am installing a flop tube in just one tank...does it matter which one? > >- Since I am using float senders, I know I will need to install the sender in the flop tube tank in the 2nd bay. I understand that I use the regular cover plate as a template to drill/cut the sender opening in the baffle. Any other modifications that are needed? Is there any specific orientation that the sender must be in the 2nd bay? Is there a best method for making the cutout in the baffle? > >- Does the vent tube get moved at all with the flop tube tank? > >- I noticed that Van's sells a solid access plate if you are not using the float sender holes. Any reason whay a piece of metal can't be riveted/sealed over the sender opening? Trying to avoid another handling fee and 2 week ship time. > >- Any other special parts needed for the tank completion? > >Sorry for all the questions. > >Thanks, >Scott >7A Wings > >Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com >The most personalized portal on the Web! > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:19:51 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: Defective Flap Actuator --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski >Although I'm not real pleased with an actuator design that holds itself >together with 10 or so threads and some loctite, both Vans and Usher told me >that they'd never encountered this problem before. > >Any thoughts? There are different types of Loctite out there some are removable some are not. If you REALLY dont want it to come apart use Loctite bearing retainer. Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:47:48 AM PST US From: "pcondon" Subject: RV-List: stick/rudder lock --> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" For .49 cents, get a new, white PVC elbow from the hardware store and put a piece of old safety belt webbing on one end. A 16 to 18 inch piece of webbing (Loews and Home Depo also has this webbing) screwed with some washers to one end of the elbow is all it takes. Slip the other end of the elbow ever the passenger stick (top) and loop the real aircraft passenger safety belt thru the elbow belt webbing, snug the real safety belt (after latching). (Takes less time to do this then it took to read this blather.....) FWIW I found some orange webbing and used SS #10 screws.....looks good, weighs nothing, costs nothing and works. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:32:50 AM PST US From: Dave Bristol Subject: Re: RV-List: Difficult to drill rivets cleanly. --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol Drilling through the rivet might work on big rivets but it's difficult to use that technique on #3's or 4"s without damaging the hole. The best way that I've found is to use a drill the same size as the hole and drill only through the rivet HEAD then using a punch the size of the hole (with a sharp edge) pop the rivet head off, and using a little smaller punch, tap the rivet shank out of the hole. This avoids excessive damage to the hole. Dave Bristol RV6 Flying So Cal EAA Technical Counselor Rob W M Shipley wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" > > >"Gerry Filby "clean" and if you can avoid it you're better off going that >way. Also there's two blind rivets between the tip rib and the >end of the spar which, if I heed the many warnings I've seen, >are very difficult to drill out. I'm not worried so much about >the cosmetics of it, more the strength." > >For those who are finding rivet removal less than straightforward try my method. No guarantees but it works for me. Drill a hole down through the center of the rivet one size smaller than the rivet diameter and just barely through the thickness of the parts it is holding together. If you have a lot to do a depth stop can be useful here. Then with a variable speed drill running slowly and using a bit slightly smaller than the rivet head at about a 45 deg. angle, twist off the head. Now the shop head can now be twisted away with a high quality pair of linesman's pliers. If this technique is mastered you'll cause no damage to the hole. If the swelling rivet has slightly enlarged the hole take the next length rivet and very gently give it a SLIGHT squeeze to increase it's diameter a little and ensure a snug fit. >Good luck >Rob >Rob W M Shipley >N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still! > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:38:05 AM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Defective Flap Actuator --> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" The rod end bearing screwed out the end of my flap actuator (because I had not secured it as the plans suggest) on final one day. Makes a big 'thunk' as you go from full to no flaps. With some altitude it's no big deal but I wouldn't want it to happen down close. With that experience behind me I don't adjust the flaps either on TO or landing when I'm low. Albert Gardner RV-9A 872RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:40:45 AM PST US From: Dave Bristol Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Defective Flap Actuator --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol Yep, ya just can't beat manual flaps and tailwheels for simplicity and ease of maintenance! (Also ease of use but then we most likely shouldn't go there!) :>) Dave do not archive (it's probably already been done!) Jerry2DT@aol.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com > >What is it about flap problems? When our flap motor quit twice in 30 hrs due >to crud in the brushes, I called Motion Systems, the manufacturer of ours, and >they said "Gosh, never heard of that one before." Hard to believe I was the >only one to call them after numerous failures I read about here. At least Van's >admitted "There have been a few problems." > >What Geoff says below just reinforces my desire to go back to manual flaps. >The only rational view I've heard for electric is they save space between the >seats for the side-by-sides. > >Sorry, had to vent...do not archive. > >Jerry Cochran > ><together with 10 or so threads and some loctite, both Vans and Usher told me >that they'd never encountered this problem before. > >Any thoughts? > >-Geoff >RV-8 QB>> > > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 07:52:40 AM PST US From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" "Rv-List@Matronics. Com" , "Rv9-List@Matronics. Com" , "Rv8-List@Matronics. Com" , , , , , Subject: RV-List: job offer --> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" I am posting this to all the RV lists so if you get duplicates dont be upset. It is that time for me at Blue Sky Aviation to add another set of experienced hands. I am looking for someone with prior building experience, A&P would be nice, along with private pilot ticket. Must be trustworthy, hard working, reliable, and a good eye for detail. If you are or know of someone, please have him or her give me a call or drop me an email. This is a full time permanent position and is available immediately. Sincerely, Noel Simmons Blue Sky Aviation, Inc. Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574 noel@blueskyaviation.net www.blueskyaviation.net ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:53:11 AM PST US From: "Ken Brooks" Subject: RV-List: Some questions from a new guy --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" Carroll wrote. . ."Stick with the A. You can find a lot of pictures of RVs on their back and more often than not there are two wheels sticking up, not three." Hey Carroll, you just saw the last photo in the sequence! The previous ones show the nose wheel snapping off when it hits the gopher hole! C'mon, I've had 4 cups of coffee and am ready for a fight. I'm donning nomex. . .flame thrower in standby mode. . . Do not archive this silliness Ken in Roscoe ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:37:29 AM PST US From: "Ross Mickey" Subject: RE: RV-List: stick/rudder lock --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" This works for the elevators but what about the rudder? Ross N9PT > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > For .49 cents, get a new, white PVC elbow from the hardware > store and put a piece of old safety belt webbing on one end. > A 16 to 18 inch piece of webbing (Loews and Home Depo also > has this webbing) screwed with some washers to one end of the > elbow is all it takes. Slip the other end of the elbow ever > the passenger stick (top) and loop the real aircraft > passenger safety belt thru the elbow belt webbing, snug the > real safety belt (after latching). (Takes less time to do > this then it took to read this > blather.....) FWIW I found some orange webbing and used SS > #10 screws.....looks good, weighs nothing, costs nothing and works. ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:37:29 AM PST US From: Steve Eberhart Subject: Re: RV-List: Difficult to drill rivets cleanly. --> RV-List message posted by: Steve Eberhart I have a flat 1/2" wide sharp wood carvers chisel that easily slices off the shop head. A pin punch can usually punch out the bad rivet. THere are places where it works great and some where punching out the rivet can damage the skins. Just an FYI. Steve Eberhart RV-7A - still working on wings. Dave Bristol wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol > > Drilling through the rivet might work on big rivets but it's difficult > to use that technique on #3's or 4"s without damaging the hole. The best > way that I've found is to use a drill the same size as the hole and > drill only through the rivet HEAD then using a punch the size of the > hole (with a sharp edge) pop the rivet head off, and using a little > smaller punch, tap the rivet shank out of the hole. This avoids > excessive damage to the hole. > > Dave Bristol RV6 Flying So Cal > EAA Technical Counselor > > Rob W M Shipley wrote: > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" >> >> >>"Gerry Filby >"clean" and if you can avoid it you're better off going that >>way. Also there's two blind rivets between the tip rib and the >>end of the spar which, if I heed the many warnings I've seen, >>are very difficult to drill out. I'm not worried so much about >>the cosmetics of it, more the strength." >> >>For those who are finding rivet removal less than straightforward try my method. No guarantees but it works for me. Drill a hole down through the center of the rivet one size smaller than the rivet diameter and just barely through the thickness of the parts it is holding together. If you have a lot to do a depth stop can be useful here. Then with a variable speed drill running slowly and using a bit slightly smaller than the rivet head at about a 45 deg. angle, twist off the head. Now the shop head can now be twisted away with a high quality pair of linesman's pliers. If this technique is mastered you'll cause no damage to the hole. If the swelling rivet has slightly enlarged the hole take the next length rivet and very gently give it a SLIGHT squeeze to increase it's diameter a little and ensure a snug fit. >>Good luck >>Rob >>Rob W M Shipley >>N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still! >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:37:24 AM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes A beautiful instrument but priced for what? Learjets? I want a 3" instrument that shows what I need to know. I don't need to know that all four egts are in the green as are all four chts. I don't need to know that both fuel tanks are at least half full. Don't show me a clock so I can see a trend, advise me if there is an ugly trend in progress etc etc. I don't want to see data - I want to see information! For less than $500. hal (retired software engineer) At 11:58 AM 3/17/2004, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" > >www.sterntech.com > >Regards, >Trampas Stern > >Stern Technologies >4321 Waterwheel Dr >Raleigh NC 27606 >919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice) >919-832-8441 (fax) >www.sterntech.com >tstern@sterntech.com > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil McLeod >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" > >Do you have a web site? > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" > >I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now >shipping! > >It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine >up >to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors >calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it. > >If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me. > >Regards, >Trampas Stern >1-877-820-6590 > > >== >== >== >== > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 09:56:05 AM PST US From: "Bruce Gray" Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" The problem with that approach is that you still need to see the raw data to confirm that a true alarm condition exists. What you want can be done with 'idiot lights'. Bruce www.glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kempthornes Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes A beautiful instrument but priced for what? Learjets? I want a 3" instrument that shows what I need to know. I don't need to know that all four egts are in the green as are all four chts. I don't need to know that both fuel tanks are at least half full. Don't show me a clock so I can see a trend, advise me if there is an ugly trend in progress etc etc. I don't want to see data - I want to see information! For less than $500. hal (retired software engineer) At 11:58 AM 3/17/2004, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" > >www.sterntech.com > >Regards, >Trampas Stern > >Stern Technologies >4321 Waterwheel Dr >Raleigh NC 27606 >919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice) >919-832-8441 (fax) >www.sterntech.com >tstern@sterntech.com > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil McLeod >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" > >Do you have a web site? > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" > >I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now >shipping! > >It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine >up >to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors >calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it. > >If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me. > >Regards, >Trampas Stern >1-877-820-6590 > > >== >== >== >== > > == == == == ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 10:02:47 AM PST US From: "John" Subject: Re: RV-List: job offer --> RV-List message posted by: "John" ...(he) must be trustworthy, hard working, reliable, and a good eye for detail..... Hey, hire me and I'll help you look for someone like that ! John ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 10:27:22 AM PST US From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com Subject: SV: RV-List: For Sale - RV-6 Almost done with a panel to die for --> RV-List message posted by: Hi Srry if I dubble the mail - did it work the other day? Ok - Your Rv still for sale? If so please some info!? Will you be at Sun and Fun ? I will show up and try to find something "exiting" ! All the best Goran Wintzell -----Ursprungligt meddelande----- Frn: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] Fr Tim Bryan Skickat: den 20 december 2003 06:31 Till: rv-list@matronics.com mne: RV-List: For Sale - RV-6 Almost done with a panel to die for --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" Listers, My RV-6 is for sale. It is almost done. Sheet metal work is pretty much done, Canopy is pretty much done except for fiberglass. Cowling is cut and fitted but hinges not on permanent, Engine is installed, baffles are fitted and installed but no chaffe rubber yet, panel installed complete, wiring done, wings test fitted. 0-360A1A Lycoming from Aerosport, New Constant Speed prop from Vans I have everything to finish this airplane except the paint. Serious buyers contact me off list for further details. Tim Bryan tim@bryantechnology.com Redmond, Oregon == == == == ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 11:18:26 AM PST US From: Jason Sneed Subject: Re: RV-List: stick/rudder lock --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed I use a bungee with clips on both ends run it around the stick to hold a full aft-right position. Bought a container of bungees from home depo for $4. I clip to the back of the seat or anywhere I see fit. JS On Mar 18, 2004, at 10:37 AM, Ross Mickey wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" > > This works for the elevators but what about the rudder? > > Ross > N9PT > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > >> For .49 cents, get a new, white PVC elbow from the hardware >> store and put a piece of old safety belt webbing on one end. >> A 16 to 18 inch piece of webbing (Loews and Home Depo also >> has this webbing) screwed with some washers to one end of the >> elbow is all it takes. Slip the other end of the elbow ever >> the passenger stick (top) and loop the real aircraft >> passenger safety belt thru the elbow belt webbing, snug the >> real safety belt (after latching). (Takes less time to do >> this then it took to read this >> blather.....) FWIW I found some orange webbing and used SS >> #10 screws.....looks good, weighs nothing, costs nothing and works. > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > Jason Sneed Commercial Lending Officer First National Bank and Trust ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 11:23:05 AM PST US From: "Phil Sisson," Subject: Re: RV-List: job offer --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson," Where is this position located? tnx, Phil ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 11:33:16 AM PST US From: "Trampas" Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring --> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" My philosophy is fairly simple, in that the purpose of engine monitoring is to prevent two things, your death and harming the engine. The difference between the Pulsar 200 and other engine monitors on the market is you get to decide what you want to monitor and want to alarm on. That is the Pulsar is a blank slate that you can easily define what you want to see, how you want to see it. For example if you want to only have an oil pressure alarm when the tachometer is above 500RPMs you can easily do that, if you do not like the analog gauges and want to show all the data as digital only, you can do that. If you want to add a humidity sensor to the unit, you can do it. If you want to alarm when the left and right magneto are reading different by more than 100RPMs you can do that. It is really hard to explain the unit, other than to say it is a data acquisition box, with a built in programmable calculator with display and data logging capabilities. For all you engineers and software developers out there, imagine an engine monitor where you could program how it works, what it shows, and how it shows it, then Pulsar is that engine monitor. That is the Pulsar is not an engine monitor, it is your engine monitor the way you want it. Regards, Trampas Stern www.sterntech.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Gray Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" The problem with that approach is that you still need to see the raw data to confirm that a true alarm condition exists. What you want can be done with 'idiot lights'. Bruce www.glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kempthornes Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes A beautiful instrument but priced for what? Learjets? I want a 3" instrument that shows what I need to know. I don't need to know that all four egts are in the green as are all four chts. I don't need to know that both fuel tanks are at least half full. Don't show me a clock so I can see a trend, advise me if there is an ugly trend in progress etc etc. I don't want to see data - I want to see information! For less than $500. hal (retired software engineer) At 11:58 AM 3/17/2004, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" > >www.sterntech.com > >Regards, >Trampas Stern > >Stern Technologies >4321 Waterwheel Dr >Raleigh NC 27606 >919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice) >919-832-8441 (fax) >www.sterntech.com >tstern@sterntech.com > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil McLeod >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" > >Do you have a web site? > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" > >I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now >shipping! > >It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine >up >to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors >calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it. > >If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me. > >Regards, >Trampas Stern >1-877-820-6590 > > >== >== >== >== > > == == == == ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 11:35:43 AM PST US From: "Terry Watson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" Hal, This doesn't answer your desire for less than $500, but check out Blue Mountain EFIS/one's approach. You don't see the engine instruments on the screen unless you want to, OR one of them goes outside of the range you have set for it. Then it pops up to alert you. It records all engine instruments and all flight data every 5 seconds and allows you to download it onto a Compact Flash card and run it through software to display trends or whatever else you want to look at, and you can get it from Van's. Terry RV-8A wiring Seattle --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes A beautiful instrument but priced for what? Learjets? I want a 3" instrument that shows what I need to know. I don't need to know that all four egts are in the green as are all four chts. I don't need to know that both fuel tanks are at least half full. Don't show me a clock so I can see a trend, advise me if there is an ugly trend in progress etc etc. I don't want to see data - I want to see information! For less than $500. hal (retired software engineer) ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 11:45:27 AM PST US From: "Terry Watson" Subject: RE: RV-List: stick/rudder lock --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" Here's how Mike Robbins did it in his RV-8. Scroll down and you will see pictures of his rear seat stick lock and his rudder lock. http://www.rv-8.com/MikeRobbins.htm Terry ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 11:48:43 AM PST US From: "BRUCE GRAY" Subject: Re: RV-List: job offer --> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" John, What are you looking for this individual to do? If the person has the passion for the task at hand or job you may find a whole lot of people willing. Long term? Rate of pay? And qualifications needed for this potion? Thanks, Bruce >From: "John" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: job offer Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 11:00:35 -0700 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "John" > >...(he) must be trustworthy, hard working, reliable, and a good eye for >detail..... > > >Hey, hire me and I'll help you look for someone like that ! > >John > > http://moneycentral.msn.com/tax/home.asp ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 12:32:11 PM PST US From: Ken Balch Subject: Re: RV-List: job offer --> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch Is the position in Lewistown, MT? That'll cut way down on the possible takers... Ken do not archive BRUCE GRAY wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" > >John, What are you looking for this individual to do? If the person has the >passion for the task at hand or job you may find a whole lot of people >willing. Long term? Rate of pay? And qualifications needed for this potion? >Thanks, Bruce > > > > >>From: "John" >>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >>To: >>Subject: Re: RV-List: job offer Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 11:00:35 -0700 >> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "John" >> >>...(he) must be trustworthy, hard working, reliable, and a good eye for >>detail..... >> >> >>Hey, hire me and I'll help you look for someone like that ! >> >>John >> >> >> >> > >http://moneycentral.msn.com/tax/home.asp > > > > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 04:34:30 PM PST US From: "Jordan Grant" Subject: RV-List: Workshop to paint shed conversion --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" Listers: I am about to build a 24'x32' workshop behind my home. After the building is complete, I plan to use it as a dedicated paint shed to paint my RV-6. After that's finished, I plan to turn it into a full-up workshop. My question is for the experienced painters out there. What can I do to have the best and safest paint shed possible (within budgetary reason, of course) using this building? Specific areas I'm thinking about: 1. Ventilation 2. Dust/bug prevention 3. Lighting Has anyone out there successfully turned their home workshop/garage/outbuilding into a dedicated paint shed? Thanks for your help, Jordan Grant RV6 N198G (Reserved) Fuel system and workshop building ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 05:06:07 PM PST US From: "Doug Rozendaal" Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" My gut hunch is, based on how many wrecked -A models I am aware of, and when you consider that most RVs are T/W, I would suspect the landing accidents vs hours flown is worse for the -As than the T/W versions. Just a hunch, not data to back that up...... Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal Do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie & Tupper England" Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England > > Actually, that's probably why he only saw 2 in the air. :-) > > Seriously, (for new guys who don't know), the reason bush planes usually > *don't* have nose wheels is because it's very difficult to make a nose > gear strut & mount that can take the stress of hitting ruts, rocks, etc > without folding. Nose gear planes are much more likely to end up on > their backs in an off-field landing. > > Of course, using that info as a basis for your choice only makes sense > if you intend to fly off of rough strips on a regular basis. > I started flying a taildragger to compensate for my feelings of > inadequacy (of money). > Charlie > learned in a Luscombe, flying a -4, working on -7 (no A) wings > > > klwerner@comcast.net wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: > > > >Dearest Carroll, > > > >You must have failed math class, because on all current Vans designs there are three wheels (no matter what preference one might have on the training wheel end location). And for what it is worth: "A's" have been seen on their backs too after the nose gear folds in! > > > >Sincerely, > >Konrad > >(6-Alpha) > > > >no offense / do not archive > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Trainnut01@aol.com > > To: rv-list@matronics.com > > Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 10:31 AM > > Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com > > > > Eddie > > Stick with the A. You can find a lot of pictures of RVs on their back and > > more often than not there are two wheels sticking up, not three. > > > > Carroll Jernigan > > RV-7A Wings > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 05:30:40 PM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: some questions from a new guy --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > My gut hunch is, based on how many wrecked -A models I am > aware of, and when you consider that most RVs are T/W, I > would suspect the landing accidents vs hours flown is worse > for the -As than the T/W versions. Just a hunch, not data to > back that up...... > > Tailwinds, > Doug Rozendaal > Do not archive Insurance folks should know this - JT, do you have any data on this? Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 445 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 06:26:00 PM PST US From: "Larry Pardue" Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Rozendaal" Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy > --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" > > My gut hunch is, based on how many wrecked -A models I am aware of, and when > you consider that most RVs are T/W, I would suspect the landing accidents vs > hours flown is worse for the -As than the T/W versions. Just a hunch, not > data to back that up...... > > Tailwinds, > Doug Rozendaal > Do not archive No statistically significant data here either but the only two RV's in my area that I know of that had accidents on the first flight were both A models that ended up on their backs on paved runways. The pilot may be more important than the gear configuration. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://n5lp.net ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 07:13:09 PM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RV-List: UHMW on Baffles --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" I see in the archives that Scott McDaniels likes to put UHMW tape on the baffles where they contact the cylinder heads to reduce wear and tear on the baffles. Is anybody else doing this? - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 07:15:06 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Alternative Strobes From: "" --> RV-List message posted by: "" Reposting for Larry's request... --- On Sun 01/18, Radomir Zaric < radomirz@vitez.net > wrote: From: Radomir Zaric [mailto: radomirz@vitez.net] Subject: RE: RV-List: Alternative Strobes As for Aeroflash tail position/strobe, I think this is what you'd be looking for: http://www.aeroflash.com/plane.html#tailposition (PS.. I didn't find this listed on ACS site). Going with this whole Aeroflash set... the price difference between it and the Whelen system is not all that much (something like $570 vs. $780). Some folks on the list have cast their doubts in the Aeroflash setup as not being bright enough... but I wouldn't know for sure, as I have no experience with 'em. Also, what I saw in the archives was that someone was using this PS: (http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/11/1808.htm?326) Even going with this one, the savings over Whelen are not all that exciting :( While I'm not there yet, my understanding is that you wouldn't have to have two conduits for strobes and landing lights... However, this would be a must with a wingtip mounted antenna -- where the interference would be noticeable. HTH. Radomir -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] Subject: RV-List: Alternative Strobes --> RV-List message posted by: "" All, I'va heard lots about some alternative strobe sources from strobes-n-more, but I have been haing a hard time understanding what I need in looking at their website. I am looking to have a setup similar to the Whelan "System 6" (nav/strobe on wings, position/strobe on tail). I am also considering Aeroflash, but the only solution I can seem to find is nav/strobe on wings and position on tail (no 3 strobe power). Anyone have a non-Whelan solution (part numbers would be great) that is equivalent to System 6? Also, since i will have nav/strobes and duckworks lights in the wings, do I not need to drill two separate conduit holes to separate the strobe lines (for noise)? Right now i am drilling holes low and aft of the 1st lightening hole (per the recent thread). Thanks, Scott Haskins RV7A Wings Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! == == == .com == Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 07:28:44 PM PST US From: "Doug Weiler" Subject: RV-List: Great RV-6A for sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" Fellow Listers: Dick Nordquist, one of our local MN Wing members has just put up his RV-6A for sale. This is a nice, neat clean -6A, with impeccable workmanship. Here's a link to the website with all the details. Please take a look!! Thanks Doug Weiler pres, MN Wing http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/N666RN/ ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 07:44:27 PM PST US From: VFT@aol.com f1builders@lists.cc.utexas.edu Subject: RV-List: F1 Rocket QB wings for sale --> RV-List message posted by: VFT@aol.com FOR SALE Complete F1 Rocket QB wing set including all related parts (fairings, tips, etc) and hardware. Asking $12K, will crate and ship anywhere within the continental U.S. Danny Melnik F1 #25 Melbourne (FL) Rocket Factory 407-687-3126 ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 10:30:00 PM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: RE: RV-List: stick/rudder lock --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins >Here's how Mike Robbins did it in his RV-8. Scroll down and you will see >pictures of his rear seat stick lock and his rudder lock. >http://www.rv-8.com/MikeRobbins.htm http://www.rv-8.com/MikeRobbins/GustLock.JPG That's very cool. Something similar installed in the front, connected to one or both rudder pedals would be *perfect*! :-) Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 10:57:09 PM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" I cant resist. If were going to question masculinity, why get a tandem in the first place? If the extra 3 knots is the answer, ok. Otherwise, its all about looking cool. A side by side wins in every other way. Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 58 hours Chicago/Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Watson" Subject: RE: RV-List: some questions from a new guy > --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" > > Eddie, > > If you have serious doubts about your masculinity, by all means go for the > 8. It seems to make some guys feel better about themselves and these days > that's really important. Otherwise, an 8A does everything just a little > better. > > I am a very slow 8A builder in the Seattle area, Lake Forest Park. > > Terry > RV-8A # 80729 wiring > N838T > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Brooks > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: some questions from a new guy > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" > > Eddie, there's still time! It's an RV-8, not 8-A that you want! Don't risk > "Tail-Dragger" envy for years to come! Come over from the Dark Side and fly > a real airplane. You'll never regret it! ;-) But, . . .if it will give you > severe angst, then. . .I guess it's better than a spam can. As for your > question about "How long will it take?", oh. . .anywhere between 89 days and > 15 years! Your energy, discipline and wallet will determine the answer. > Notice I didn't mention skill. If you can drive a nail straight, with > practice you can rivet together an RV-8, er, I mean RV. It's just harder to > imagine that you're in a P-51 sitting level on the tarmac. Welcome to the > club and get that order into Van's. Whadda ya wait'n fer, boy?? > > Do Not Archive > > Ken Brooks > 6.5 years and counting (with a QB, no less!) > Roscoe, IL > N1903P (yes, for the Wright Bros.) > >