Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:49 AM - Tools Wanted (David Kirby)
2. 04:29 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Doug Rozendaal)
3. 05:39 AM - Tandem vs SBS Seating (Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com)
4. 05:51 AM - Re: UHMW on Baffles (Gary Zilik)
5. 06:09 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Scott Bilinski)
6. 06:29 AM - Re: Tandem vs SBS Seating (Scott Bilinski)
7. 06:31 AM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Scott Bilinski)
8. 07:05 AM - Fw: RV Fly-in and Bar-BQ Lunch (Ollie Washburn)
9. 07:18 AM - Re: Great RV-6A for sale (Jamie Painter)
10. 07:27 AM - Rubber plug (Richard)
11. 08:26 AM - Re: Rubber (body) plugs (Jack Blomgren)
12. 08:49 AM - Re: UHMW on Baffles (Laird Owens)
13. 09:52 AM - Yellow RV (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
14. 09:58 AM - Re: Rubber (body) plugs (Robert Cutter)
15. 11:00 AM - Re: Engine monitoring (Finn Lassen)
16. 11:03 AM - RV-7 Rudder Question (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
17. 11:04 AM - Re: Yellow RV (Mike Nellis)
18. 12:07 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Tedd McHenry)
19. 12:08 PM - Fw: TFR/Bar-BQ (Ollie Washburn)
20. 12:22 PM - Altrak (W. Doyce Graham)
21. 01:34 PM - Re: Yellow RV (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
22. 01:48 PM - Re: Rubber plug (J. R. Dial)
23. 02:14 PM - Re: Workshop to paint shed conversion (Kai Schumann)
24. 02:42 PM - Re: Workshop to paint shed conversion (Trampas)
25. 03:11 PM - Re: Tandem vs SBS Seating (Jim Sears)
26. 03:50 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (czechsix@juno.com)
27. 03:54 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (czechsix@juno.com)
28. 04:23 PM - control locks (Wheeler North)
29. 04:26 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Jerry Springer)
30. 05:09 PM - Re: some questions from a new guy (Charlie & Tupper England)
31. 05:11 PM - Re: Rubber plug (Cy Galley)
32. 07:44 PM - Cylinder Blocker (Kyle Boatright)
33. 08:40 PM - Drilling rivets (Rob W M Shipley)
34. 09:51 PM - Re: stick/rudder lock (Jeff Dowling)
35. 11:27 PM - Re: RV-7 Rudder Question (Jeff Cours)
36. 11:42 PM - Re: Tandem vs SBS Seating (Jeff Dowling)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Kirby" <davewendi@earthlink.net>
Looking for a set of used sheet metal tools. Please contact me directly.
David Kirby
RV-6A QB
Griffin, Ga.
davewendi@earthlink.net
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Wise words, these ones.........
Doug Rozendaal
Do not archive
Snip> The pilot may be more
> important than the gear configuration.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
Message 3
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| Subject: | Tandem vs SBS Seating |
03/19/2004 08:33:20 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
Snip
If were going to question masculinity, why get a tandem in the first place?
If the extra 3 knots is the answer, ok. Otherwise, its all about looking
cool. A side by side wins in every other way.
End Snip
I have found that the tandem offers a better sight line when landing. It
makes it much easier for me to null out any drift and to nail my alignment
at touchdown. I learned to fly tailwheels in a Luscombe which had a
strange sight line over the cowl due to a odd angle hinge line that was
further compounded by the off-center seating. It made it difficult for me
to establish alignment in those last few seconds of flight. When I flew
the Citabria and J-3, it was like looking down a gun sight. Just aim the
spinner at the end of the runway and you are right on target. I'm sure
that one could adapt to any sight picture over the cowl after a few hours
of practice, but I will take any advantage that I can get : -) In my
opinion, the tandem has better visibility all around as well. If you
really want to dig deeply, the tandem offers a smaller target for a bird
strike. Aside from these details, I think that the SBS seating is better
in every way...especially if you enjoy company while flying. You also
reduce CG loading issues with SBS seating.
Don Alexander
RV-8 Fuselage
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: UHMW on Baffles |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
Yes. I pulled my baffles for a cylinder change and was amazed at how the
fins had worn into the baffles. I installed uhmw in an attempt to slow
the wear and tear.
Z
Larry Bowen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
>I see in the archives that Scott McDaniels likes to put UHMW tape on the
>baffles where they contact the cylinder heads to reduce wear and tear on
>the baffles. Is anybody else doing this?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry@BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Nose draggers are cheaper to insure over tail draggers, period. I looked
into this when I was getting ready to build.
At 07:30 PM 3/18/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
>> My gut hunch is, based on how many wrecked -A models I am
>> aware of, and when you consider that most RVs are T/W, I
>> would suspect the landing accidents vs hours flown is worse
>> for the -As than the T/W versions. Just a hunch, not data to
>> back that up......
>>
>> Tailwinds,
>> Doug Rozendaal
>> Do not archive
>
>Insurance folks should know this - JT, do you have any data on this?
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN
>RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
>http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Tandem vs SBS Seating |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
On the SBS seating I dont like butting shoulders or shoulder over lap. I
was in a 6 a while back and the pilot could not get max stick movement
because I could not get my legs out of the way. I have heard this comment
before on most SBS. I am 6' 3" and 195 so I am not carrying a lot of extra lbs.
Aside from these details, I think that the SBS seating is better
>in every way...especially if you enjoy company while flying. You also
>reduce CG loading issues with SBS seating.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
On the SBS seating I dont like butting shoulders or shoulder over lap. I
was in a 6 a while back and the pilot could not get max stick movement
because I could not get my legs out of the way. I have heard this comment
before on most SBS. I am 6' 3" and 195 so I am not carrying a lot of extra lbs.
At 12:55 AM 3/19/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
>I cant resist.
>
>If were going to question masculinity, why get a tandem in the first place?
>If the extra 3 knots is the answer, ok. Otherwise, its all about looking
>cool. A side by side wins in every other way.
>
>Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>58 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>>
>> Eddie,
>>
>> If you have serious doubts about your masculinity, by all means go for the
>> 8. It seems to make some guys feel better about themselves and these days
>> that's really important. Otherwise, an 8A does everything just a little
>> better.
>>
>> I am a very slow 8A builder in the Seattle area, Lake Forest Park.
>>
>> Terry
>> RV-8A # 80729 wiring
>> N838T
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Brooks
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
>>
>> Eddie, there's still time! It's an RV-8, not 8-A that you want! Don't
>risk
>> "Tail-Dragger" envy for years to come! Come over from the Dark Side and
>fly
>> a real airplane. You'll never regret it! ;-) But, . . .if it will give
>you
>> severe angst, then. . .I guess it's better than a spam can. As for your
>> question about "How long will it take?", oh. . .anywhere between 89 days
>and
>> 15 years! Your energy, discipline and wallet will determine the answer.
>> Notice I didn't mention skill. If you can drive a nail straight, with
>> practice you can rivet together an RV-8, er, I mean RV. It's just harder
>to
>> imagine that you're in a P-51 sitting level on the tarmac. Welcome to the
>> club and get that order into Van's. Whadda ya wait'n fer, boy??
>>
>> Do Not Archive
>>
>> Ken Brooks
>> 6.5 years and counting (with a QB, no less!)
>> Roscoe, IL
>> N1903P (yes, for the Wright Bros.)
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 8
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| Subject: | Fw: RV Fly-in and Bar-BQ Lunch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a@prodigy.net>
Subject: Fl.Wing of Vans Airforce Fly-in and Bar-BQ lunch
Finally it looks like we will have good weather for the RV fly-in tomorrow. Hope
to see all of you here. There will be coffee and doughnuts for the early birds
and sumptuous slow smoked pork plus hamburgers,hotdogs,ham and all the other
fixins at noon.
Location--Love's Landing Airpark ( 97FL) N 28*57.42 W 081*53.29 10 mi.
N. of Leesburg. Driving take RT 27 to CR42, East on 42 to 155th ave. South
on 155th to 175th st. East on 175th about 1/2 mi along white fence to gate.
Straight through gate to bright yellow house and hopfully many,many RVs.
Runway---18/36 (9/27 will be closed unless there is strong wind)
Freq.-------122.9
NOTE---- This is private airport; land at your own risk.
Ollie Washburn ollie-6a@prodigy.net
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Great RV-6A for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
I guess this guy isn't superstitious, you know...given the red paint and
the registration number. :-)
Jamie Painter
RV-7A Elevators.
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> Dick Nordquist, one of our local MN Wing members has just put up his RV-6A
> for sale. This is a nice, neat clean -6A, with impeccable workmanship.
> Here's a link to the website with all the details. Please take a look!!
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> pres, MN Wing
>
> http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/N666RN/
>
>
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard" <chiefs@peak.org>
Listers...
Anybody have any idea where I could find rubber hole plugs that are about 1 1/4
in dia.?
My plan is to use them in the wheel pants on my RV-8. I am too lazy to make doors
to gain access to wheels to inflate tires.
Dick White
RV-8 N94DW
Old Crow
Newport, OR
Message 11
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| Subject: | Rubber (body) plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
Richard,
Rubber "Body Plug Assortments" are available from JC Whitney, page 184 in
current catalog 684J-03.
1-800-529-4486 or < www.jcw.com >
Jack
>From: "Richard" <chiefs@peak.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Rubber plug
>Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 07:27:46 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard" <chiefs@peak.org>
>
>Listers...
>
>Anybody have any idea where I could find rubber hole plugs that are about 1
>1/4 in dia.?
>
>My plan is to use them in the wheel pants on my RV-8. I am too lazy to
>make doors to gain access to wheels to inflate tires.
>
>Dick White
>RV-8 N94DW
>Old Crow
>Newport, OR
>
>
Check out MSN PC Safety & Security to help ensure your PC is protected and
safe. http://specials.msn.com/msn/security.asp
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: UHMW on Baffles |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
I installed UHMW on the baffles from day one.
On day two, after the first engine start, the baffles get hot enough
to melt the adhesive holding the UHMW on. Then the UHMW starts
curling up....lots of baked on adhesive not holding the UHMW....
As long as the UHMW doesn't slip out of place, it still protects the
baffle, but it looks like crap.
Laird RV-6 950 hrs
SoCal
>--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
>
>Yes. I pulled my baffles for a cylinder change and was amazed at how the
>fins had worn into the baffles. I installed uhmw in an attempt to slow
>the wear and tear.
>
>Z
>
>Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>>
>>I see in the archives that Scott McDaniels likes to put UHMW tape on the
>>baffles where they contact the cylinder heads to reduce wear and tear on
>>the baffles. Is anybody else doing this?
>>
>>-
>>Larry Bowen
>>Larry@BowenAero.com
>>http://BowenAero.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
I have misplaced a foto of a solid yellow -6A tip-up sunning itself on a
taxiway- seems it was finished several years ago, but can't recall whose it was-
If anyone has a link, can send it to me or whatever, I would be most
grateful...
Mark Phillips do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Rubber (body) plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert Cutter" <rcutter@cupower.com>
You may also try your local "rubber and gasket" store. They usually have many
different sizes of rubber grommets and/or plugs and you might not have to get
a complete assortment.
Robert Cutter
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Blomgren
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 11:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rubber (body) plugs
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
Richard,
Rubber "Body Plug Assortments" are available from JC Whitney, page 184 in
current catalog 684J-03.
1-800-529-4486 or < www.jcw.com >
Jack
>From: "Richard" <chiefs@peak.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Rubber plug
>Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 07:27:46 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard" <chiefs@peak.org>
>
>Listers...
>
>Anybody have any idea where I could find rubber hole plugs that are about 1
>1/4 in dia.?
>
>My plan is to use them in the wheel pants on my RV-8. I am too lazy to
>make doors to gain access to wheels to inflate tires.
>
>Dick White
>RV-8 N94DW
>Old Crow
>Newport, OR
>
>
Check out MSN PC Safety & Security to help ensure your PC is protected and
safe. http://specials.msn.com/msn/security.asp
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Engine monitoring |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
Hal at first glance I would agree with you.
I would never pay that kind of money, I'd rather design and build it myself.
But, turn around and look at it from the perspective of someone that
might like to make a bit of a profit and maybe even a living. It's not
just the materials and manufacturing, it's the promotion, sales and not
least tech support. What kind of hourly wage would *you* be willing to
work for?
I thought about designing and selling a simple and cheap engine monitor,
but the price growns rapidly if you don't want to answer endless
questions for free, not to mention fixing broken units ("I plugged it
into wall outlet at home to play with it - was that wrong?"). Might get
real old after a while. I think that people expect you to be at their
disposal if they have paid you for something (no matter how little), so
you might as well make it enough to cover your expenses and make a tiny
profit.
Finn
kempthornes wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
>A beautiful instrument but priced for what? Learjets?
>
>I want a 3" instrument that shows what I need to know. I don't need to
>know that all four egts are in the green as are all four chts. I don't
>need to know that both fuel tanks are at least half full. Don't show me a
>clock so I can see a trend, advise me if there is an ugly trend in progress
>etc etc.
>
>I don't want to see data - I want to see information! For less than $500.
>
>hal (retired software engineer)
>
>At 11:58 AM 3/17/2004, you wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>>
>>www.sterntech.com
>>
>>Regards,
>>Trampas Stern
>>
>>Stern Technologies
>>4321 Waterwheel Dr
>>Raleigh NC 27606
>>919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice)
>>919-832-8441 (fax)
>>www.sterntech.com
>>tstern@sterntech.com
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil McLeod
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
>>
>>Do you have a web site?
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trampas
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: Engine monitoring
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>>
>>I just wanted to let you know that Stern Tech's engine monitor is now
>>shipping!
>>
>>It is a graphical engine monitor which can be configured for any engine
>>up
>>to 8 cylinders. The user can change the display layout and even sensors
>>calibration. Now you can have an engine monitor the way you want it.
>>
>>If you have any questions please feel free to call me or email me.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Trampas Stern
>>1-877-820-6590
>>
>>
>>==
>>==
>>==
>>==
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | RV-7 Rudder Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Listers,
I decided to build my replacement rudder (RV-9) before flying my RV-7A. Have
there been any changes in the past year. I was one of the first to get the
replacement rudder after I had already built the original RV-7 rudder. The
original rudder had .020 skins. The replacement has .016 skins. Is this the
same as current RV-7 kits?
Dan RV-7A
(70066) (almost done)
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
So lets see, we don't talk for a little while and you forget all about
me?? Figures. :)
http://bmnellis.com/FlyIns/Morris.htm
Mike
*** -----Original Message-----
*** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
*** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
*** Fiveonepw@aol.com
*** Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 11:49 AM
*** To: rv-list@matronics.com
*** Subject: RV-List: Yellow RV
***
***
*** --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
***
*** I have misplaced a foto of a solid yellow -6A tip-up
*** sunning itself on a
*** taxiway- seems it was finished several years ago, but can't
*** recall whose it was-
*** If anyone has a link, can send it to me or whatever, I
*** would be most
*** grateful...
***
*** Mark Phillips do not archive
***
***
*** ==============
*** Matronics Forums.
*** ==============
*** ==============
*** ==============
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
Message 18
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| Subject: | some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
On Fri, 19 Mar 2004, Scott Bilinski wrote:
> Nose draggers are cheaper to insure over tail draggers, period.
In the context, you seem to be suggesting that this fact indicates an RV
taildragger is more likely to be involved in a wreck than an RV nosedragger.
But I think you'll find that the actuarial data used isn't that fine-grained.
If RV taildragger insurance is higher it's almost certainly because taildragger
insurance is IN GENERAL higher, not because RV taildraggers, specifically,
represent a higher risk.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a@prodigy.net>
Subject: TFR
CAUTION---To all RVers coming to Love's Landing Bar-BQ from South Florida, the
Orlando TFR is official and is active Sat 20th from 11am until 1:45 pm.So,get
out early and head for the fly-in.Also note that the TFR ring is different than
the normal 30 mi ring around Orlando.
Fly safe Ollie
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "W. Doyce Graham" <dgraham@CLEMSON.EDU>
In response to the report of motor being loose on an Altrak I took down the
baggage compartment panels and inspected mine. Motor was secure and bolts
were tight. Would not tighten at all.
Doyce Graham
RV 6 N69TB
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
> So lets see, we don't talk for a little while and you forget all about
> me?? Figures. :)
> http://bmnellis.com/FlyIns/Morris.htm
Fergit? Heck no- just too busy putting a bird in the air! 8-)
I do think the plane I'm looking for is Chets, but the foto I had was from a
higher angle above and looking at the front right side with the canopy closed-
anybody got one?
Thanks! (HI to Beth for me!)
Mark - do not archive
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
I got mine from ACE Hardware. They are chromed metal and they
were in the section where they have drawers of stainless screws, washers
and kind of special stuff. 75 cents ea.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Subject: RV-List: Rubber plug
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard" <chiefs@peak.org>
Listers...
Anybody have any idea where I could find rubber hole plugs that are
about 1 1/4 in dia.?
My plan is to use them in the wheel pants on my RV-8. I am too lazy to
make doors to gain access to wheels to inflate tires.
Dick White
RV-8 N94DW
Old Crow
Newport, OR
==
==
==
==
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Workshop to paint shed conversion |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kai Schumann <kai92117@yahoo.com>
We converted a garage to a paint room to do a custom
job on a 64 mustang. What my buddy did was construct a
large frame structure on one side where windows were
that held 8-10 air filters. He used the filters you
can get at home depot intended for house central
heating, then on the opposite side of the room in the
door he put a large fan blowing outward into another
filter inside a water heater box. This kept paint
overspray from coating everything outside if
adjustments went bad. We plastic sheeted the ceiling
and walls prior to paint, as well as carefully
vacuumed the floor prior to starting. After using a
painters tack cloth on all surfaces we painted using
an HVLP setup (which I still have!). The result was a
flawless finish. Oh - we also painted at around
midnight, both because of lower dust outside, and
because the neighbors were less likely to have windows
open and complain about the smell of the paint.
depending on local conditions, humidity may prohibit
night time painting.
Do Not Archive
--- Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant"
> <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers:
> I am about to build a 24'x32' workshop
> behind my home. After the building
> is complete, I plan to use it as a dedicated paint
> shed to paint my RV-6.
> After that's finished, I plan to turn it into a
> full-up workshop. My
> question is for the experienced painters out there.
> What can I do to have
> the best and safest paint shed possible (within
> budgetary reason, of course)
> using this building? Specific areas I'm thinking
> about:
> 1. Ventilation
> 2. Dust/bug prevention
> 3. Lighting
>
> Has anyone out there successfully turned their home
> workshop/garage/outbuilding into a dedicated paint
> shed?
>
> Thanks for your help,
> Jordan Grant
> RV6 N198G (Reserved)
> Fuel system and workshop building
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 24
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| Subject: | Workshop to paint shed conversion |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
From my experience it is also good to get some shop lights to place around
the outside of the plastic sheeting so that you can see the sides of the
plane and under.
Regards,
Trampas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kai Schumann
Subject: Re: RV-List: Workshop to paint shed conversion
--> RV-List message posted by: Kai Schumann <kai92117@yahoo.com>
We converted a garage to a paint room to do a custom
job on a 64 mustang. What my buddy did was construct a
large frame structure on one side where windows were
that held 8-10 air filters. He used the filters you
can get at home depot intended for house central
heating, then on the opposite side of the room in the
door he put a large fan blowing outward into another
filter inside a water heater box. This kept paint
overspray from coating everything outside if
adjustments went bad. We plastic sheeted the ceiling
and walls prior to paint, as well as carefully
vacuumed the floor prior to starting. After using a
painters tack cloth on all surfaces we painted using
an HVLP setup (which I still have!). The result was a
flawless finish. Oh - we also painted at around
midnight, both because of lower dust outside, and
because the neighbors were less likely to have windows
open and complain about the smell of the paint.
depending on local conditions, humidity may prohibit
night time painting.
Do Not Archive
--- Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant"
> <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers:
> I am about to build a 24'x32' workshop
> behind my home. After the building
> is complete, I plan to use it as a dedicated paint
> shed to paint my RV-6.
> After that's finished, I plan to turn it into a
> full-up workshop. My
> question is for the experienced painters out there.
> What can I do to have
> the best and safest paint shed possible (within
> budgetary reason, of course)
> using this building? Specific areas I'm thinking
> about:
> 1. Ventilation
> 2. Dust/bug prevention
> 3. Lighting
>
> Has anyone out there successfully turned their home
> workshop/garage/outbuilding into a dedicated paint
> shed?
>
> Thanks for your help,
> Jordan Grant
> RV6 N198G (Reserved)
> Fuel system and workshop building
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Tandem vs SBS Seating |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> On the SBS seating I dont like butting shoulders or shoulder over lap. I
> was in a 6 a while back and the pilot could not get max stick movement
> because I could not get my legs out of the way. I have heard this comment
> before on most SBS. I am 6' 3" and 195 so I am not carrying a lot of extra
> lbs.
I have to agree. Van Hindorff, a newly hooked RV-9A builder, has been
riding with me in my -6A. Because I have a 2" subpanel that gets in his
way, his legs tend to get in mine. He's 6'4" and weighs about 210 pounds;
so, he's not that big. It's just that he's got longer legs than my 5'7"
body totes. I have to bump his legs out of the way when I do the trim
settings, the power settings, the flaps, etc. Mine are all on the center
channel that runs down from the panel to the fuel selector. Anyway, I'm the
timid pilot who does not need full deflection on anything; so, that has not
been a problem, so far. He doesn't mind my moving his legs; and, I still
get the job done without much trouble. I guess he'll be riding with me
until it gets to be a problem, or until he gets his -9A flying.
Since I just bought a -7 tail kit from Pat Patterson, I guess I'm ready to
start on RV project #3. I'm hoping Van and a couple of others in the area
keep me working on mine. It's hard to do when Scooter is waiting for me at
the airport. :-) Hmm. I guess you can tell what I prefer. Well, I'd
prefer a -10; but, my wallet says no. :-(
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7x (Kit purchased/almost done. Need to build shop and order wings.)
EAA Tech Counselor
do not archive
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
I'd agree with Doug and Larry...just from the accident reports I've heard about,
especially with the -8/A series, I know of at least 3 -8A's that have been totalled
by bending the nosewheel under and flipping it over. Whereas only two
-8 accidents come to mind, both of which were repairable. And the -8's outnumber
the -8A's by about 5 to 1 last time I saw numbers for completed RV's. If
these numbers are anything close to representative of the actual accident record,
the taildraggers would be better by something like 8 to 1. I don't know
if these numbers are representative though...could be that there's more taildraggers
out there groundlooping that we don't hear about...it's not exactly an
experience most taildragger pilots like to brag about : )
As Larry points out, the pilot is probably the most important factor. Choosing
a nosegear should never be intended to make up for poor pilot skills. Especially
for RV's....which are NOT Cessnas or Pipers that have that huge boat anchor
oleo strut nose gear. Those things are TOUGH! You can land the average spam
can on the nose gear and usually get away with it. Try that once in an RV
and you probably end up on your back with a totalled airplane. Vans design is
superior in performance in terms of weight and drag, but it is nowhere near as
rugged as most certified spam cans.
I didn't choose the -8A because I'm afraid of taildraggers, although I do think
it takes some of the pucker factor out of landing especially with crosswinds.
I like it for a variety of other reasons that have been hashed and rehashed
so I won't repeat them here.
As it's been said, most of us will choose what we really WANT to build, often not
for practical considerations. Fear of the little wheel in back shouldn't be
a deciding factor IMHO. Respect and consideration, perhaps, but not fear.
Build what you like and learn to handle it accordingly.
Now, I better go get current lest I have to eat my words someday : ) I'm expecting
my first flight to be any day now within the next several decades, and I intend
to be ready when the time comes...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fwf...
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
> My gut hunch is, based on how many wrecked -A models I am aware of, and
when
> you consider that most RVs are T/W, I would suspect the landing accidents
vs
> hours flown is worse for the -As than the T/W versions. Just a hunch, not
> data to back that up......
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> Do not archive
No statistically significant data here either but the only two RV's in my
area that I know of that had accidents on the first flight were both A
models that ended up on their backs on paved runways. The pilot may be more
important than the gear configuration.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Jeff,
Actually "looking cool" never really occurred to me as a factor in the side-by-side
vs tandem decision. I think the centerline seating position for the pilot
is better than the SBS configuration, especially for visibility. Also when
I started my -8A, the -7/A didn't exist yet, so for me the -8A offered a more
advanced kit (more prepunching etc), more fuel capacity, and more engine options
than the -6/A kit offered at the time. Today, it would be a tough choice between
the -8A and -7A....I now have kids and would probably lean towards the
-7A out of consideration for them, even though as a pilot I think the -8A will
always be better.
Just some things to consider...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fwf forever...
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: some questions from a new guy
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I cant resist.
If were going to question masculinity, why get a tandem in the first place?
If the extra 3 knots is the answer, ok. Otherwise, its all about looking
cool. A side by side wins in every other way.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
58 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
word of caution, about two or three years ago a fella took off out of
Arlington in WA and had the right stick was strapped with the seat belt in a
RV6, plane went up and then down, and he burned to death after telling
everyone to get away from the burning wreckage.
The lesson is to only lock the controls at the location you use them, such
that you have to hurt yourself just to sit in that seat with the locks in
place.
And one more significant advantage of tail draggers with steerable wheels is
they keep the rudder locked.
W
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
I am 6' 3" and 215lbs and do not find it a problem at all getting enough
control movement even with another
passenger my size. In reality how often well you be using max contol
movement while carrying a passenger?
Also it is more fun to have your female passenger sitting beside you.
IMO :-)
Jerry
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>On the SBS seating I dont like butting shoulders or shoulder over lap. I
>was in a 6 a while back and the pilot could not get max stick movement
>because I could not get my legs out of the way. I have heard this comment
>before on most SBS. I am 6' 3" and 195 so I am not carrying a lot of extra lbs.
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: some questions from a new guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Hi Scott,
FWIW, rates depend on experience & the underwriter. I've got about 650
TT with about 400 in type (RV-4) plus about 180 in TW complex (200hp c/s
prop Swift) & only about 30 hrs in nosewheel planes. I talked to Avemco
(who I don't currently use) about rates a year or so ago prior to
starting my -7 & asked about rates. In the course of conversation, I
asked if nosewheel would be cheaper. They said that with my history &
experience, there would be no difference in rate. YMMV
Charlie
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>Nose draggers are cheaper to insure over tail draggers, period. I looked
>into this when I was getting ready to build.
>
>At 07:30 PM 3/18/04 -0600, you wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>My gut hunch is, based on how many wrecked -A models I am
>>>aware of, and when you consider that most RVs are T/W, I
>>>would suspect the landing accidents vs hours flown is worse
>>>for the -As than the T/W versions. Just a hunch, not data to
>>>back that up......
>>>
>>>Tailwinds,
>>>Doug Rozendaal
>>>Do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>Insurance folks should know this - JT, do you have any data on this?
>>
>>Alex Peterson
>>Maple Grove, MN
>>RV6-A N66AP 445 hours
>>http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Hardware store has snap-in style plastic plugs with a flange like Cessna
uses.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor-in-Chief & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard" <chiefs@peak.org>
Subject: RV-List: Rubber plug
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard" <chiefs@peak.org>
>
> Listers...
>
> Anybody have any idea where I could find rubber hole plugs that are about
1 1/4 in dia.?
>
> My plan is to use them in the wheel pants on my RV-8. I am too lazy to
make doors to gain access to wheels to inflate tires.
>
> Dick White
> RV-8 N94DW
> Old Crow
> Newport, OR
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Cylinder Blocker |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
There has been some discussion on the list about the effectiveness in using cylinder
blockers to balance out CHT's. In general, people report the #1 cylinder
(right front) is the coolest, with #3 (right rear) being the warmest. Adding
a cylinder blocker in front of #1 is supposed to increase the temp on #1 and
reduce the temp on #3.
In my case, Cht's were typically 325 for #1, 335 for #2 & #4 and 375 for #3 during
cruise. During takeoff and climb out, #3 was usually well over 400F, sometimes
over 425F, while the other cylinders were 50 degrees cooler.
To make a long story short, I added a cylinder blocker to the front of #1 and the
variation between #1 and #3 is way down. The variation is probably no more
than 15 degrees now, and the maximum variation between any two cylinders is down
as well. I'd say #'s 1, 2, and 4 are now in the 335F range in cruise, with
#3 350F or less. In particular, the temps on #3 are much better in climb, and
30+ degrees cooler in cruise. I'd rate this experiment a success.
How did I fabricate the cylinder blocker? It is a small piece of .032 sheet that
is as wide as the cylinder head, but doesn't cover any of the barrel. The
sheet rivets to the bottom baffle ramp where the ramp slopes upwards towards
the cylinder. The blocker follows that line, which hits the cylinder about 3/4"
above where the stock ramp meets the cylinder fins. In addition, the blocker
has a 1/2" wide flange that rests against the cylinder fins, and raises the
overall height of the blocker to 1.25".
I'm very happy with the results, so I don't plan to experiment and find the *perfect*
height. 1.25 inches with "my" geometry is fine for me...
KB
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Dave, 3s and 4s are exactly the rivets this technique works well for. The key
is to use a drill bit bit with a smaller diameter than the rivet. The benefit
of drilling most of the way through is that much of the stress on the sides of
the hole is removed and the rivet is far easier to remove cleanly. A major
difficulty I encountered with the punch method is the damage that can be done
to thinner skins when trying to drive the rivet through. The drill and twist
method eliminates this difficulty.
It really isn't hard. I taught a new builder the technique in five minutes last
weekend and I'm certain if you try it you'll be pleased.
Rob
From: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Difficult to drill rivets cleanly.
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Drilling through the rivet might work on big rivets but it's difficult
to use that technique on #3's or 4"s without damaging the hole. The best
way that I've found is to use a drill the same size as the hole and
drill only through the rivet HEAD then using a punch the size of the
hole (with a sharp edge) pop the rivet head off, and using a little
smaller punch, tap the rivet shank out of the hole. This avoids
excessive damage to the hole.
Dave Bristol RV6 Flying So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Rob W M Shipley wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
>
>
>"Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com wrote: My experience drilling out rivets so far
is that its rarely
>"clean" and if you can avoid it you're better off going that
>way. Also there's two blind rivets between the tip rib and the
>end of the spar which, if I heed the many warnings I've seen,
>are very difficult to drill out. I'm not worried so much about
>the cosmetics of it, more the strength."
>
>For those who are finding rivet removal less than straightforward try my method.
No guarantees but it works for me. Drill a hole down through the center of
the rivet one size smaller than the rivet diameter and just barely through the
thickness of the parts it is holding together. If you have a lot to do a depth
stop can be useful here. Then with a variable speed drill running slowly
and using a bit slightly smaller than the rivet head at about a 45 deg. angle,
twist off the head. Now the shop head can now be twisted away with a high quality
pair of linesman's pliers. If this technique is mastered you'll cause
no damage to the hole. If the swelling rivet has slightly enlarged the hole take
the next length rivet and very gently give it a SLIGHT squeeze to increase
it's diameter a little and ensure a snug fit.
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
How about running a bungee from the stick to one of the rudder pedals?
It seems like it should work.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
58 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: stick/rudder lock
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
> I use a bungee with clips on both ends run it around the stick to hold
> a full aft-right position. Bought a container of bungees from home depo
> for $4. I clip to the back of the seat or anywhere I see fit.
>
> JS
>
>
> On Mar 18, 2004, at 10:37 AM, Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
> >
> > This works for the elevators but what about the rudder?
> >
> > Ross
> > N9PT
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> >
> >> For .49 cents, get a new, white PVC elbow from the hardware
> >> store and put a piece of old safety belt webbing on one end.
> >> A 16 to 18 inch piece of webbing (Loews and Home Depo also
> >> has this webbing) screwed with some washers to one end of the
> >> elbow is all it takes. Slip the other end of the elbow ever
> >> the passenger stick (top) and loop the real aircraft
> >> passenger safety belt thru the elbow belt webbing, snug the
> >> real safety belt (after latching). (Takes less time to do
> >> this then it took to read this
> >> blather.....) FWIW I found some orange webbing and used SS
> >> #10 screws.....looks good, weighs nothing, costs nothing and works.
> >
> >
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> Jason Sneed
> Commercial Lending Officer
> First National Bank and Trust
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Rudder Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
> The replacement has .016 skins. Is this the same as current RV-7
> kits?
I just mic-ed mine at .016, and I got my empennage kit in January, so it
sounds like the replacement rudders are the same as the ones they're
shipping with the current kits.
- Jeff
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Tandem vs SBS Seating |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
How many cars are built with a tandem configuration? Even custom, far out
designs just to look cool?
Its just easier in a sbs. I dont have to plan where I want to put charts,
drinks, gadgets, you name it. Just throw it over there on the other seat or
reach around and grab it from its secured spot in the baggage compt. No
brainer.
Its also much much easier and cheaper making a full panel with all the toys.
I would love an RV-3 to just play around locally, but other than that, I
prefer to see my passenger ( and all the other benefits that may come with
that :).
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
58 hours
Chicago/Louisville
ps I flew both the T-37 and T-38 in pilot training and dont remember any
benefit of runway alignment/visibility in the tandem 38 over the sbs tweet.
The 38 looked much cooler though. and man could it roll
Do not archive please
----- Original Message -----
From: <Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tandem vs SBS Seating
> --> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
>
>
> Snip
>
> If were going to question masculinity, why get a tandem in the first
place?
> If the extra 3 knots is the answer, ok. Otherwise, its all about looking
> cool. A side by side wins in every other way.
>
> End Snip
>
> I have found that the tandem offers a better sight line when landing. It
> makes it much easier for me to null out any drift and to nail my alignment
> at touchdown. I learned to fly tailwheels in a Luscombe which had a
> strange sight line over the cowl due to a odd angle hinge line that was
> further compounded by the off-center seating. It made it difficult for me
> to establish alignment in those last few seconds of flight. When I flew
> the Citabria and J-3, it was like looking down a gun sight. Just aim the
> spinner at the end of the runway and you are right on target. I'm sure
> that one could adapt to any sight picture over the cowl after a few hours
> of practice, but I will take any advantage that I can get : -) In my
> opinion, the tandem has better visibility all around as well. If you
> really want to dig deeply, the tandem offers a smaller target for a bird
> strike. Aside from these details, I think that the SBS seating is better
> in every way...especially if you enjoy company while flying. You also
> reduce CG loading issues with SBS seating.
>
> Don Alexander
> RV-8 Fuselage
> do not archive
>
>
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