Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:18 AM - Re: stick/rudder lock (Jim Sears)
2. 03:36 AM - Re: Tandem vs SBS Seating (Bob U.)
3. 04:49 AM - Re: Workshop to paint shed conversion (BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks))
4. 05:14 AM - Re: Drilling rivets (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
5. 05:26 AM - Re: RV-7 Rudder Question (vansrv4grvmj)
6. 05:30 AM - Making your own ELT antenna (lucky macy)
7. 07:38 AM - Re: stick/rudder lock (Dave Bristol)
8. 07:38 AM - Re: RV-7 Rudder Question (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
9. 07:41 AM - Re: stick/rudder lock (Jeff Dowling)
10. 07:43 AM - Re: Tandem vs SBS Seating (Jeff Dowling)
11. 07:49 AM - Re: Making your own ELT antenna (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
12. 07:49 AM - Re: RV-7 Rudder Question (Trainnut01@aol.com)
13. 07:54 AM - Re: stick/rudder lock (Jeff Dowling)
14. 07:57 AM - Re: RV-7 Rudder Question (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
15. 08:00 AM - Re: Making your own ELT antenna (RV8ter@aol.com)
16. 08:35 AM - Re: Making your own ELT antenna (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
17. 08:40 AM - Re: Making your own ELT antenna (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
18. 10:10 AM - Anywhere Map Discussion Board (John)
19. 10:13 AM - online Canadian airport guide? (Dan Checkoway)
20. 12:16 PM - Garmin 296 color GPS (Robin Wessel)
21. 02:46 PM - Re: Garmin 296 color GPS (Jerry Springer)
22. 03:11 PM - Re: Anywhere Map Discussion Board (Sam Buchanan)
23. 03:35 PM - Re: Garmin 296 color GPS (Stein Bruch)
24. 03:38 PM - Elevator horns? ()
25. 04:47 PM - Re: Elevator horns? (Dan Checkoway)
26. 04:49 PM - Re: Tandem vs SBS Seating (Bob U.)
27. 05:34 PM - Altrak/Digitrak servo solution (N67BT@aol.com)
28. 06:58 PM - Re: Elevator horns? (Doug Weiler)
29. 07:00 PM - Compass Screw (Francis Malczynski)
30. 08:17 PM - Re: online Canadian airport guide? (Steve & Denise)
31. 08:35 PM - Re: Elevator horns? (Allen Fulmer)
32. 10:47 PM - Re: online Canadian airport guide? (Tedd McHenry)
33. 10:53 PM - Re: online Canadian airport guide? (Tedd McHenry)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> How about running a bungee from the stick to one of the rudder pedals?
>
> It seems like it should work.
>
When I first took Scooter to the airport, I thought of many ways of doing
it. I finally decided that using the seat belt around the stick was
perfect. I have foam rubber grips for bicycles on my sticks; so, there is
plenty of grabbing ability in them. I just wrap the belt around the grip
and nudge it up a little. I've never had the belt fall off of the stick,
even in really bad wings.
As for the rudder, I took a piece of 2"X2" (I think) scrap angle stock, cut
it narrow enough to fit from the rudder lock to the rudder stop. I drilled
a hole through the flat portion of the angle and the stop. I drilled
through the verticle portion and the rudder horn. A couple of 1", or less,
AN3 bolts put me in business. It's a solid lock that takes just seconds to
remove and install. I tighten the AN365 nuts finger tight so I can remove
them with my fingers. Neither has come off from movement, yet. Actually,
one could make one from 1/16" stock and would be just fine. It doesn't take
that much to hold one in place.
Jim
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Tandem vs SBS Seating |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
>
>I would love an RV-3 to just play around locally, but other than that, I
>prefer to see my passenger ( and all the other benefits that may come with
>that :).
>
>Jeff Dowling
>
To each his own, but the majority of my RV-3 flying is not "playing around".
I use my RV-3 almost excusiviely as a fast and serious cross country
machine.
A second seat would normally go to waste, ESPECIALLY TANDEM.
P.S.
I fly multi-place airplanes to "play around" with passengers. :-)
Bob - flying on a very meager retirement budget
Do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Workshop to paint shed conversion |
--> RV-List message posted by: BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
I framed a temporary wall in one bay of my garage and lined the walls,
ceiling, and floor with plastic sheeting purchased in 10X100 foot rolls.
I have 3-3tube 8ft fluorescent lights on the ceiling (9 tubes total)
and an 8ft 2-tube light mounted horizontally on each side wall. You
can't have too much light and sometimes I'd use a shop light to get a
better look. No matter how bright it looks in there that will change
when the paint starts flying.
At one end of the booth I mounted 6 pleated furnace filters to filter
the incoming air. The more filters you use the less restriction, and
Your plastic won't try to suck in as bad or pull as much dirt in around
it. Don't tape the floor plastic down or it will lift, and you may have
to wet it with some water to keep your shoes from sticking.
At the other end I built a large box from waferboard. Inside it is a
3000 CFM squirrel cage blower. At the back of the box is a 25 foot 12"
flexible furnace duct that I drag outside.
The opening of the box holds 2 -25X25 fiberglass furnace filters side by
side (pleated filters would plug up with paint too fast at the exit). I
started out using the exit filters 2 deep (4filters) but after some
experimentation switched to 3 filters deep (6filters). On a related
note, Clay Magic will remove Acrylic Urethane overspray from your wifes
pearl red Eldorado. You want to pull your exit air low because the
Overspray settles. Some people use box fans but I couldn't get the
airflow I desired with them.
You'll need a table, shelf or something in the booth to set your
stuff on so you don't have to run outside to refill your gun.
If you haven't bought a paint gun yet consider a gravity feed that can
use cup liners. They will spray upside down.
I use a Neoterik supplied air hood respirator. It's a pain fighting with
the hose but it beats breathing paint.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Rob,
I developed the same technique you described also. It is the best way to
remove a bent or miss-bucked rivet. I became an expert at drilling out rivets
when I started my project! In fact I think I drilled out more rivets than I
kept. The problem with drilling out rivets is that the hole has been enlarged
by
the rivet shank expanding against it. Each time you put a new rivet in the
same hole the hole gets bigger, even if you drill it out perfectly. I think as
your riveting skill improves, you'll find that you won't have to use the
skill you developed at drilling out the rivets! Just my $.02 worth.
Dan
RV-7A N766DH (almost done)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Rudder Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "vansrv4grvmj" <vansrv4grvmj@btinternet.com>
Hi Dan,
the new rudder has the 16 thou skins. Follow instructions carefully for the
trailing edge and you'll end up with a perfectly straight trailing edge. You
can also cheat a little and use a lenght of steel angle, drill through every
hole through the angle, and partially set the rivets in between.
Marcel
RV7 ~71481
Message 6
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rv8list@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Making your own ELT antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
I'd like to make a custom ELT antenna to fit under my VS. The King antenna
is too long so instead of cutting it down I thought I'd save it for my UHF
comm needs later on.
I saw an example of a copper strip bonded to the inside of the empennage
fairing and somehow made to work with the supplied ELT antenna cable. I
don't know how he supported the BNC connector but would rather avoid doing
it that way alltogether.
I searched through ACS online and even wrote them an email asking for some
lengths of possible pre-made ELT replacement antennas and received no reply.
It's been a few days so I don't think that's going anywhere.
So why not just make one myself too out of soft SS like the stock antenna?
As I looked into it I even considered using the telescoping antenna which
comes with the ELT since it also already had a BNC adapter on the bottom but
that would mean modifiying the base of the antenna to be mountable to the
mini-bulkhead just in front of the Horisontal Stab. The telescoping antenna
isn't meant for that. I could try to mount it using clamps to keep it in
place and away from touching anything but would rather not.
Anyone have a web site showing a solution to this or otherwise have a simple
solution idea? It's duplicating the threaded base of the antenna which I
can't seem to find a supply for.
thanks in advance,
lucky
MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page FREE
download! http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Jeff,
Since the rudder is cable operated, you have to push on the pedals to
lock the rudder not pull.
Dave
Jeff Dowling wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
>How about running a bungee from the stick to one of the rudder pedals?
>
>It seems like it should work.
>
>Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>58 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds@cox.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: stick/rudder lock
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>>
>>I use a bungee with clips on both ends run it around the stick to hold
>>a full aft-right position. Bought a container of bungees from home depo
>>for $4. I clip to the back of the seat or anywhere I see fit.
>>
>>JS
>>
>>
>>On Mar 18, 2004, at 10:37 AM, Ross Mickey wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
>>>
>>>This works for the elevators but what about the rudder?
>>>
>>>Ross
>>>N9PT
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>For .49 cents, get a new, white PVC elbow from the hardware
>>>>store and put a piece of old safety belt webbing on one end.
>>>>A 16 to 18 inch piece of webbing (Loews and Home Depo also
>>>>has this webbing) screwed with some washers to one end of the
>>>>elbow is all it takes. Slip the other end of the elbow ever
>>>>the passenger stick (top) and loop the real aircraft
>>>>passenger safety belt thru the elbow belt webbing, snug the
>>>>real safety belt (after latching). (Takes less time to do
>>>>this then it took to read this
>>>>blather.....) FWIW I found some orange webbing and used SS
>>>>#10 screws.....looks good, weighs nothing, costs nothing and works.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>_-
>>>=======================================================================
>>>_-
>>>=======================================================================
>>>_-
>>>=======================================================================
>>>_-
>>>=======================================================================
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>Jason Sneed
>>Commercial Lending Officer
>>First National Bank and Trust
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Rudder Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 3/20/04 8:26:59 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
vansrv4grvmj@btinternet.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "vansrv4grvmj" <vansrv4grvmj@btinternet.com>
>
> Hi Dan,
>
> the new rudder has the 16 thou skins. Follow instructions carefully for the
> trailing edge and you'll end up with a perfectly straight trailing edge. You
> can also cheat a little and use a lenght of steel angle, drill through every
> hole through the angle, and partially set the rivets in between.
>
> Marcel
> RV7 ~71481
>
Marcel,
Could you please clarify the last sentence? I understand that I should
partially set all the rivets and check the straightness. I was going to use
Proseal and perhaps a piece of hardwood for a straight edge with Clecos through
the
trailing edge into the hardwood. Then wait a few days for the Proseal to set,
then rivet. I have also heard of alternating the direction of rivets to
avoid warping the trailing edge. That makes sense.
Thanks for the help,
Dan RV-7A (second rudder)
N766DH (almost done)
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I think Wheeler had a great point about not putting a lock on flight
controls that could not be removed from the cockpit.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: stick/rudder lock
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
>
>
> > How about running a bungee from the stick to one of the rudder pedals?
> >
> > It seems like it should work.
> >
>
> When I first took Scooter to the airport, I thought of many ways of doing
> it. I finally decided that using the seat belt around the stick was
> perfect. I have foam rubber grips for bicycles on my sticks; so, there is
> plenty of grabbing ability in them. I just wrap the belt around the grip
> and nudge it up a little. I've never had the belt fall off of the stick,
> even in really bad wings.
>
> As for the rudder, I took a piece of 2"X2" (I think) scrap angle stock,
cut
> it narrow enough to fit from the rudder lock to the rudder stop. I
drilled
> a hole through the flat portion of the angle and the stop. I drilled
> through the verticle portion and the rudder horn. A couple of 1", or
less,
> AN3 bolts put me in business. It's a solid lock that takes just seconds
to
> remove and install. I tighten the AN365 nuts finger tight so I can remove
> them with my fingers. Neither has come off from movement, yet. Actually,
> one could make one from 1/16" stock and would be just fine. It doesn't
take
> that much to hold one in place.
>
> Jim
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Tandem vs SBS Seating |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
No offense Bob. I mentioned the 3 because its a centerline machine and is
supposed to be the most fun to fly.
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tandem vs SBS Seating
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
>
>
> >
> >I would love an RV-3 to just play around locally, but other than that, I
> >prefer to see my passenger ( and all the other benefits that may come
with
> >that :).
> >
> >Jeff Dowling
> >
>
> To each his own, but the majority of my RV-3 flying is not "playing
around".
> I use my RV-3 almost excusiviely as a fast and serious cross country
> machine.
> A second seat would normally go to waste, ESPECIALLY TANDEM.
>
> P.S.
> I fly multi-place airplanes to "play around" with passengers. :-)
>
>
> Bob - flying on a very meager retirement budget
>
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Making your own ELT antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Lucky,
I have done some testing on the ELT antenna under the fiberglass fuselage
empennage fairing, and have found that that is a really poor place for an ELT
antenna. Antennas are greatly affected by metal objects near them. Of course,
it will work to some extent, but your range will be severely compromised. No
one wants to put an antenna out in the 200 MPH breeze, but that is the best
place for them -- electrically. Compromises must be made in lots of cases. I
have been a ham radio operator for over 40 years and have tried lots of
antennas, and have a pretty good feel for what works and what doesn't. I hate
to
think of myself as an authority on the subject, though. I am hoping to get some
agreement from those on the List who are more expert than I am. As they say:
IMHO.
Dan K9WEK
RV-7A (almost done)
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
>
> I'd like to make a custom ELT antenna to fit under my VS. The King antenna
> is too long so instead of cutting it down I thought I'd save it for my UHF
> comm needs later on.
>
> I saw an example of a copper strip bonded to the inside of the empennage
> fairing and somehow made to work with the supplied ELT antenna cable. I
> don't know how he supported the BNC connector but would rather avoid doing
> it that way alltogether.
>
> I searched through ACS online and even wrote them an email asking for some
> lengths of possible pre-made ELT replacement antennas and received no reply.
>
> It's been a few days so I don't think that's going anywhere.
>
> So why not just make one myself too out of soft SS like the stock antenna?
> As I looked into it I even considered using the telescoping antenna which
> comes with the ELT since it also already had a BNC adapter on the bottom but
>
> that would mean modifiying the base of the antenna to be mountable to the
> mini-bulkhead just in front of the Horisontal Stab. The telescoping antenna
>
> isn't meant for that. I could try to mount it using clamps to keep it in
> place and away from touching anything but would rather not.
>
> Anyone have a web site showing a solution to this or otherwise have a simple
>
> solution idea? It's duplicating the threaded base of the antenna which I
> can't seem to find a supply for.
>
> thanks in advance,
> lucky
>
> MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page FREE
> download! http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Rudder Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
Dan
I drilled my rudder trailing edge to a 2x6. Then, when I squeezed the rivets,
I started from the middle and worked toward the top and bottom simultaneously
while alternating the direction of rivet insertion. The trailing edge is
perfectly straight and no sealer was used. I ran this by Van's after the fact and
they approve.
Carroll
RV-7A Wings
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: stick/rudder lock |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Well that makes sense. How bout both pedals? I'll give it a try later.
Jeff
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034@lafn.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: stick/rudder lock
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> Jeff,
>
> Since the rudder is cable operated, you have to push on the pedals to
> lock the rudder not pull.
>
> Dave
>
> Jeff Dowling wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
<shempdowling@earthlink.net>
> >
> >How about running a bungee from the stick to one of the rudder pedals?
> >
> >It seems like it should work.
> >
> >Jeff Dowling
> >RV-6A, N915JD
> >58 hours
> >Chicago/Louisville
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds@cox.net>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: stick/rudder lock
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
> >>
> >>I use a bungee with clips on both ends run it around the stick to hold
> >>a full aft-right position. Bought a container of bungees from home depo
> >>for $4. I clip to the back of the seat or anywhere I see fit.
> >>
> >>JS
> >>
> >>
> >>On Mar 18, 2004, at 10:37 AM, Ross Mickey wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
> >>>
> >>>This works for the elevators but what about the rudder?
> >>>
> >>>Ross
> >>>N9PT
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>-----Original Message-----
> >>>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>For .49 cents, get a new, white PVC elbow from the hardware
> >>>>store and put a piece of old safety belt webbing on one end.
> >>>>A 16 to 18 inch piece of webbing (Loews and Home Depo also
> >>>>has this webbing) screwed with some washers to one end of the
> >>>>elbow is all it takes. Slip the other end of the elbow ever
> >>>>the passenger stick (top) and loop the real aircraft
> >>>>passenger safety belt thru the elbow belt webbing, snug the
> >>>>real safety belt (after latching). (Takes less time to do
> >>>>this then it took to read this
> >>>>blather.....) FWIW I found some orange webbing and used SS
> >>>>#10 screws.....looks good, weighs nothing, costs nothing and works.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>_-
> >>>=======================================================================
> >>>_-
> >>>=======================================================================
> >>>_-
> >>>=======================================================================
> >>>_-
> >>>=======================================================================
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>Jason Sneed
> >>Commercial Lending Officer
> >>First National Bank and Trust
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Rudder Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Carroll,
Thanks for the advice. I may forgo the Proseal, or maybe put on a real thin
layer and rivet immediately so it can't cause problems.
Dan
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 3/20/04 10:50:13 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
Trainnut01@aol.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
>
> Dan
> I drilled my rudder trailing edge to a 2x6. Then, when I squeezed the
> rivets,
> I started from the middle and worked toward the top and bottom
> simultaneously
> while alternating the direction of rivet insertion. The trailing edge is
> perfectly straight and no sealer was used. I ran this by Van's after the
> fact and
> they approve.
> Carroll
> RV-7A Wings
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Making your own ELT antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Thanks for the reply. I understand the theory of what you are saying and
it's implications.
I guess I should have said in my original email that I don't give a rats butt
about making the signal as strong as possible. I am not an ELT proponent and
I have zero trust in the ELT. I am not counting on it to help me out. For
me, it has more value as a counterweight to my angle valve engine. I have
another portable yaesu titanium cased triband hand held and my cell phone which
I
have a LOT more faith in to help me should the need arise. This discussion
could drag out and end up in quite a long diatribe and flame war and I'm not
personally interested in hearing from any of it.
I think ELTs should be a personal choice. End of discussion for me.
lucky
less is usually more
do not archive
In a message dated 3/20/2004 10:50:52 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Lucky,
I have done some testing on the ELT antenna under the fiberglass fuselage
empennage fairing, and have found that that is a really poor place for an ELT
antenna. Antennas are greatly affected by metal objects near them. Of
course,
it will work to some extent, but your range will be severely compromised. No
one wants to put an antenna out in the 200 MPH breeze, but that is the best
place for them -- electrically. Compromises must be made in lots of cases.
I
have been a ham radio operator for over 40 years and have tried lots of
antennas, and have a pretty good feel for what works and what doesn't. I
hate to
think of myself as an authority on the subject, though. I am hoping to get
some
agreement from those on the List who are more expert than I am. As they say:
IMHO.
Dan K9WEK
RV-7A (almost done)
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
>
> I'd like to make a custom ELT antenna to fit under my VS. The King antenna
> is too long so instead of cutting it down I thought I'd save it for my UHF
> comm needs later on.
>
> I saw an example of a copper strip bonded to the inside of the empennage
> fairing and somehow made to work with the supplied ELT antenna cable. I
> don't know how he supported the BNC connector but would rather avoid doing
> it that way alltogether.
>
> I searched through ACS online and even wrote them an email asking for some
> lengths of possible pre-made ELT replacement antennas and received no
reply.
>
> It's been a few days so I don't think that's going anywhere.
>
> So why not just make one myself too out of soft SS like the stock antenna?
> As I looked into it I even considered using the telescoping antenna which
> comes with the ELT since it also already had a BNC adapter on the bottom
but
>
> that would mean modifiying the base of the antenna to be mountable to the
> mini-bulkhead just in front of the Horisontal Stab. The telescoping
antenna
>
> isn't meant for that. I could try to mount it using clamps to keep it in
> place and away from touching anything but would rather not.
>
> Anyone have a web site showing a solution to this or otherwise have a
simple
>
> solution idea? It's duplicating the threaded base of the antenna which I
> can't seem to find a supply for.
>
> thanks in advance,
> lucky
>
> MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page FREE
> download! http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Making your own ELT antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Lucky,
I agree. I have an IO-360 and a Hartzell up front too. I'm afraid it may
take more than an ELT to hold the tail down! Anyway, I didn't want to start a
fight either.
To answer your original question, use a piece of copper foil tape about 22
1/4 inches long taped or glued to the fiberglass as far as you can get it from
any aluminum. Actually, you could use a copper wire epoxied to the fairing as
well. Insulation on the wire doesn't matter. Feed it with 50 ohm coax (RG-58
from Radio Shack). Solder the center conductor to the end of the foil or
wire and ground the braid with the shortest connection possible to the airframe.
This will work as well as anything mounted in the tail. All this is assuming
that you want it in the fuselage to horizontal and vertical stab fiberglass
fairing.
Regards,
Dan
RV-7A (almost done)
I have zero trust in the ELT. I am not counting on it to help me out. For
>
> me, it has more value as a counterweight to my angle valve engine. I have
> another portable yaesu titanium cased triband hand held and my cell phone
> which I
> have a LOT more faith in to help me should the need arise. This discussion
> could drag out and end up in quite a long diatribe and flame war and I'm not
>
> personally interested in hearing from any of it.
>
> I think ELTs should be a personal choice. End of discussion for me.
>
> lucky
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Making your own ELT antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
CORRECTION. 23.11 inches is the theoretical length of a 1/4 wave antenna at
121.5 MHz.
In a message dated 3/20/04 11:36:01 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
>
> Lucky,
>
> I agree. I have an IO-360 and a Hartzell up front too. I'm afraid it may
> take more than an ELT to hold the tail down! Anyway, I didn't want to start
> a
> fight either.
>
> To answer your original question, use a piece of copper foil tape about 22
> 1/4 inches long taped or glued to the fiberglass as far as you can get it
> from
> any aluminum. Actually, you could use a copper wire epoxied to the fairing
> as
> well. Insulation on the wire doesn't matter. Feed it with 50 ohm coax
> (RG-58
> from Radio Shack). Solder the center conductor to the end of the foil or
> wire and ground the braid with the shortest connection possible to the
> airframe.
> This will work as well as anything mounted in the tail. All this is
> assuming
> that you want it in the fuselage to horizontal and vertical stab fiberglass
> fairing.
>
> Regards,
> Dan
> RV-7A (almost done)
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Anywhere Map Discussion Board |
FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
DO NOT ARCHIVE - DELETE AS ONLY TANGENTIALLY RELATED TO RV'S
Has Control Vision permanently dropped their discussion board? It was
'unavailable' for many days now. I know quite a few RV'ers use the Anywhere
Map and participate in the discussion board, and thought someone might know
what's going on. Thanks.
John
Message 19
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| Subject: | online Canadian airport guide? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Is there an equivalent to www.airnav.com for Canadian airports? I don't
need all the bells & whistles, just the basic airport info, FBO info, etc.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Garmin 296 color GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Wessel" <Robin.Wessel@verizon.net>
Attention gadget geeks-
Got an e-mail from Pacific Coast Avionics previewing the new Garmin 296,
a color version of the 196.
price: $1,699
---
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 296 color GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Robin Wessel wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Wessel" <Robin.Wessel@verizon.net>
>
> Attention gadget geeks-
>
> Got an e-mail from Pacific Coast Avionics previewing the new Garmin 296,
> a color version of the 196.
>
> price: $1,699
>
>
>
>
Makes the 295 a good deal at $1099. They also have reduced the price of
the Garmin lll pilot to $399 which
does not make me happy as I just bought one from them last month at $499.
http://www.pca.aero/default.asp?ptype=GPS
Jerry
do not archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Anywhere Map Discussion Board |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
John wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE - DELETE AS ONLY TANGENTIALLY RELATED TO RV'S
>
> Has Control Vision permanently dropped their discussion board? It was
> 'unavailable' for many days now. I know quite a few RV'ers use the Anywhere
> Map and participate in the discussion board, and thought someone might know
> what's going on. Thanks.
>
> John
John, I just checked the AWM forums and they are up and running; I've
looked at them a couple of times in the past few days and they have
worked fine.
Sam Buchanan
Message 23
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| Subject: | Garmin 296 color GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Or the Bendix/King Skyforce/Skymap IIIc..... which you can routinely get on
the internet for $750-1000.00. And, the b/w 196 can be had for $850 or less
also.
I'm not particularly biased, but I have a skymap in one RV6, and the Garmin
196 in the other. Both have their pro's and con's, but I really like the
colored Skymap's larger display and terrain info!
That being said, the 296 looks pretty cool! I'll have to check it out at
OSH where there's bound to be deals!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Springer
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296 color GPS
Makes the 295 a good deal at $1099. They also have reduced the price of
the Garmin lll pilot to $399 which
does not make me happy as I just bought one from them last month at $499.
http://www.pca.aero/default.asp?ptype=GPS
Jerry
do not archive
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: <groves@epix.net>
Hello everyone,
I just fit up my elevators today and don't know if I have a problem or not. I
clamped my elevators in trail just as the manual says, but the elevator horns
don't match up perfect. The left elevator horn is slightly lower and the horns
are a little out of line fore and aft, I can line everything up by using my
hands and slightly moving the horns. Is this normal or are my elevators a little
out of wack. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Kirk RV-8
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator horns? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Par for the course. Mine were like that, too. Drill 'em where they are,
with the elevators clamped in trail (use a digital protractor if you're
anal), and it'll all work out fine. 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <groves@epix.net>
Subject: RV-List: Elevator horns?
> --> RV-List message posted by: <groves@epix.net>
>
> Hello everyone,
> I just fit up my elevators today and don't know if I have a problem or
not. I clamped my elevators in trail just as the manual says, but the
elevator horns don't match up perfect. The left elevator horn is slightly
lower and the horns are a little out of line fore and aft, I can line
everything up by using my hands and slightly moving the horns. Is this
normal or are my elevators a little out of wack. Any advice would be greatly
appreciated
> Thanks
> Kirk RV-8
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Tandem vs SBS Seating |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Jeff Dowling wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
>No offense Bob. I mentioned the 3 because its a centerline machine and is
>supposed to be the most fun to fly.
>
Absolutely no offense was taken, Jeff.
My intent was strictly to point out that the RV-3 is a competent, fast
and efficient cross country machine as well as a blast to fly around the
patch. Especially, if one is on a very meager beer budget and no one
hankers to tag along.
While I'm on the soapbox....
IMO, centerline seating is much ado about nuthin'. I own an RV3 because
it sold for nearly half the price of an equivalent already built RV-4,
fit my mission and pocketbook precisely. When it comes to conserving
funds: - one really can enjoy or learn to enjoy, a bare bones RV as Van
first conceived it.... and get to the $100 hamburger joint on $50 or
less. :-)
Bob
Do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Altrak/Digitrak servo solution |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
OK,
I have the Altrak and Digitrak autopilots. I have the same concerns
regarding bolt safety as other listers. My servos are the same for both units.
Here's my solution -- for piece of mind:
Drill out the threaded mounting holes to accommodate an AN3-12 (or 13) bolt.
That would be a no. 12 or 3/16" drill.
Mount the servo using these bolts, a washer on the motor side (this
captivates the socket head screw), and a fiber lock nut. This also safeties the
mounting bolts.
This is what I'm going to do. It may not be wise regarding TruTrak warrantee
issues, but what the hay, it's my butt.
Bob Trumpfheller
http://users.aol.com/n67bt
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator horns? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
> Hello everyone,
> I just fit up my elevators today and don't know if I have a problem or
not. I clamped my elevators in trail just as the manual says, but the
elevator horns don't match up perfect. The left elevator horn is slightly
lower and the horns are a little out of line fore and aft, I can line
everything up by using my hands and slightly moving the horns. Is this
normal or are my elevators a little out of wack. Any advice would be greatly
appreciated
> Thanks
> Kirk RV-8
Very common on these airplanes. Had the same issue on my RV-4. I ended up
matching the elevator horns fairly close (they are off slightly). The
trailing edge of my elevators are off slightly also (probably 3/16").
Airplane flies perfect.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, 105 hours, rebuilding new canopy and havin' fun!!
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm@yahoo.com>
While on a long cross country, the only mechanical problem we experienced
was a screw falling out of our vans Pedestal Mount Northern Hemisphere
compass, Part Number = IF CM-24L. This is the screw that is behind the flip
up tab that holds the light bulb in place and is used to secure the compass
bezel to the compass. Can anyone tell me what size this screw is so I can
try and find a replacement? Needless to say Ive searched all over the
inside of the plane to find the original, but no luckThanks
Fran Malczynski
RV-6 N594EF
Olcott, NY
ebbfmm@yahoo.com
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: online Canadian airport guide? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
Aeroplanner has Canadian airports.
Check it out Eh!
http://map.aeroplanner.com/mapping/chart/aptsel.cfm
Steve
RV7A
55 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: online Canadian airport guide?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Is there an equivalent to www.airnav.com for Canadian airports? I don't
> need all the bells & whistles, just the basic airport info, FBO info, etc.
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
Just did mine tonight and noticed the same "problem". Don't think it
matters when you consider the geometry of the setup.
Allen Fulmer
Empennage almost finished!
N808AF reserved
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: online Canadian airport guide? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
A lot of Canadian airports are in airnav.com, but many of the smaller ones
aren't. Be sure to use the full, 4-letter ICAO identifier (e.g. CYVR for
Vancouver).
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: online Canadian airport guide? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Whoops, sorry. I was mixing up airnav.com with the Great Circle Mapper
(http://gc.kls2.com/). The Mapper has some Canadian airports, but I don't
think Airnav does.
---
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
DO NOT ARCHIVE
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