Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:10 AM - air-oil separator (Wayne Pedersen)
2. 06:14 AM - Re: Re: EL lighting (Christopher Stone)
3. 07:02 AM - Pistons... (pcondon)
4. 07:13 AM - Re: Air-Oil Seperator (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
5. 08:07 AM - starter problem? (Jason Sneed)
6. 08:28 AM - Re: starter problem? (Scott Bilinski)
7. 08:36 AM - Re: Pistons... (Bill VonDane)
8. 08:36 AM - Re: air-oil separator (Bob)
9. 08:47 AM - Re: starter problem? (Jason Sneed)
10. 09:12 AM - Re: DeVilbiss E-Z Liners (Laird Owens)
11. 09:17 AM - Re: starter problem? (Albert Gardner)
12. 09:34 AM - Re: air-oil separator (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
13. 09:34 AM - Re: starter problem? (Scott Bilinski)
14. 09:39 AM - Re: starter problem? (Bob)
15. 09:45 AM - Re: Pistons... ()
16. 09:49 AM - Re: starter problem? (linn walters)
17. 09:53 AM - Re: starter problem? (Dan Checkoway)
18. 09:54 AM - Remove bugs not wax? (Scott Bilinski)
19. 10:01 AM - Re: Remove bugs not wax? (JusCash@aol.com)
20. 10:02 AM - Re: Re: air-oil separator ()
21. 10:30 AM - Re: Pistons... (Bill VonDane)
22. 10:44 AM - Re: starter problem? (Jason Sneed)
23. 11:51 AM - Re: Re: EL lighting (Phil Sisson,)
24. 12:15 PM - Re: Remove bugs not wax? (Dwpetrus@aol.com)
25. 12:18 PM - Re: starter problem? (Dan Checkoway)
26. 12:25 PM - Re: Remove bugs not wax? (PSILeD@aol.com)
27. 12:33 PM - Canadian fuel price conversion tool (Dan Checkoway)
28. 12:40 PM - Re: Remove bugs not wax? (Dwpetrus@aol.com)
29. 01:22 PM - Re: Canadian fuel price conversion tool (Joe Hine)
30. 01:59 PM - Re: Re: Pistons... ()
31. 02:54 PM - Re: air-oil separator (Ernest Kells)
32. 03:16 PM - Aero trainers (Austin)
33. 03:16 PM - > Re: Remove Bugs Not Wax (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
34. 03:34 PM - Re: Re: EL lighting (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
35. 04:10 PM - Re: Canadian fuel price conversion tool (Dan Checkoway)
36. 04:12 PM - Re: starter problem? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
37. 09:13 PM - Re: Renesis (was: Engines again / Weights) (Tracy Crook)
38. 09:50 PM - RV 3 Kit for sale (Brett Ray)
Message 1
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| Subject: | air-oil separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
Cant seem to find any info in the archives on this slime/oil on the belly
apparatus. Anyone have any experience with these air-oil separators ? A/S
has them as cheap as $38.50 and up. Vans is $157.00 Do they work ? and Is
this $$$ well spent. Suggestions ?
Thanks
Wayne
RV7a IO-360 Finishing
S.Alberta
---
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RE: EL lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
Conductive epoxy is available from
http://www.masterbond.com/sg/ecsg.html
I too purchased the green EL strips from Buy.Com...
Great price!
Dan,
Thanks for the data collection.
Chris Stone
RV8
Newberg, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: EL lighting
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
I received my EL lighting tapes last week from Buy.com and thought some
Listers may be interested in the following information about them. To get free
shipping, I ordered 3 EL kits to get the total over $25. The red ones were
cheaper -- about $8.95, than the green ones, and I thought I may want red anyway,
so I ordered 2 reds and one green. The green EL tapes are brighter than the
red, and much more efficient (see below). And my 2 reds were different colors.
One was almost purple, and not near as bright as the other red. Also, all
three inverters were different. One was much smaller than the other two. The
dimensions of the larger ones are 1 3/4 by 1 by 15/16 high, not counting the
mounting ears. The smaller one is 1 1/16 by 11/16 by 13/16 high. The inverters
have 2 cables and connectors to drive 2 tapes, so maybe you can buy the tapes
separately.
The package has some specs on the inverter. The input is 12V and has a
connector which mates to a disk drive power cable in the computer. The output
is
90 VAC at 1 KHz. I measured the input current on one of the inverters driving
each strip as: green 28 mA, red 64 mA, and purple 32 mA. When driving no
strip at all the current was 15 mA. The current is less at lower voltage. This
limited testing shows that the green is much more efficient. The point is that
there is a lot of variation between the different colors. Of course, I don't
have enough strips to be sure that my data is typical of all the parts.
The width of the strip according to the package is 0.3 inches, but they
measured 0.4, 0.5 and 0.55 inches! The 0.55 inches was because of sloppy assembly,
the two outside clear tapes were offset from each other. The length is
(almost) 5 feet and can be cut off, but I don't know how you would connect to the
unused piece to use it again. At Delco we had some conductive epoxy which
would work, but I don't know where to get it now, and its probably expensive.
Does anyone know? Short pieces may come in handy to light instruments, switches,
etc.
I'm not unhappy with these EL lighting strips. I think I will make use of at
least one of them, and the price is great.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Building my RV-9 rudder before the first flight, not that I intend on
doing spins!)
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
I recall the trick of using the -H2AD pistons in a standard O-320 for a
compression rise. Being "standard" pistons for the -H2AD, the cost isn't
outrageous for hi compression pistons-for standard O-320's.....
Does anyone else recall this...or maybe I should replace the filter in my
paint mask more often.....
ime: 09:09:41 AM PST US
From: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pistons...
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Anyone have any high compression pistons for an O320?
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Air-Oil Seperator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Wayne;
I had my crankcase vent tube led down to the exhaust pipe and pointed dead
against the pipe. About 1/8" clearance. The oil hits the hot pipe and bakes so
there is just dry ash to get on the belly.
Bob Olds -- RV-4 , N1191X
oldsfolks@aol.com
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 5
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| Subject: | starter problem? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane
was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for
the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup
although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder
installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra
power.
During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery
just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one
occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a
new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that
seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new
battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the
luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another
5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low was
40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I
went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the
prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when
the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is
12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a lightweight
starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
Thanks,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
From my experience, at 65 (engine temp) the first few blades turn very slow
and then a immediate start (elect ign). After the engine warms up as you
mentioned its a non issue. I was told by my engine builder to pre heat the
engine any time the temps get into the 50's. Not so much for ease of
starting but to get the oil flowing in a timely manner after starting. The
side benefit to this is the engine will turn over faster when starting.
Another thing to consider is OAT and engine temp. You mentioned it was 55
when you went flying. I bet the internal engine temp was 45, no wonder you
were having problems turning the engine over.
Pre heat the engine when temps are leAt 10:07 AM 3/23/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
>I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane
>was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for
>the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup
>although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder
>installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra
>power.
>
>During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery
>just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one
>occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a
>new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that
>seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new
>battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the
>luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another
>5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low was
>40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I
>went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the
>prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when
>the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is
>12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
>any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
>the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
>start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a lightweight
>starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jason Sneed
>Commercial Lending Officer
>First National Bank and Trust
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Hey Gary...
Do you have any input on whether to use the 8.5:1 vs the 9:1 pistons? There
seems to be about a $50 difference from ECI...
Do you know that kind of HP I will get?
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Pistons...
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
http://www.lycon.com/nfs.htm
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,447 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pistons...
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Anyone have any high compression pistons for an O320?
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
do not archive
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: air-oil separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <rv3@comcast.net>
Wayne Pedersen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
>
>Cant seem to find any info in the archives on this slime/oil on the belly
>apparatus. Anyone have any experience with these air-oil separators ? A/S
>has them as cheap as $38.50 and up. Vans is $157.00 Do they work ? and Is
>this $$$ well spent. Suggestions ?
>
>Thanks
>
>Wayne
>RV7a IO-360 Finishing
>S.Alberta
>
The more important question may be....
Is it good for your engine to be re-ingesting this nasty 'goop'?
IMO...
'Tis better and cheaper to let the contaminated water laded oil gunk
drip on the hot exhaust or catch it in a container for later disposal.
Bob
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
The hangar temp and the engine temp were the same that day, 54 degrees.
On Mar 23, 2004, at 10:27 AM, Scott Bilinski wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> From my experience, at 65 (engine temp) the first few blades turn very
> slow
> and then a immediate start (elect ign). After the engine warms up as
> you
> mentioned its a non issue. I was told by my engine builder to pre heat
> the
> engine any time the temps get into the 50's. Not so much for ease of
> starting but to get the oil flowing in a timely manner after starting.
> The
> side benefit to this is the engine will turn over faster when starting.
> Another thing to consider is OAT and engine temp. You mentioned it was
> 55
> when you went flying. I bet the internal engine temp was 45, no wonder
> you
> were having problems turning the engine over.
>
> Pre heat the engine when temps are leAt 10:07 AM 3/23/04 -0600, you
> wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>>
>> I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane
>> was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for
>> the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup
>> although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder
>> installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra
>> power.
>>
>> During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery
>> just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one
>> occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a
>> new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that
>> seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new
>> battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the
>> luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another
>> 5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low
>> was
>> 40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I
>> went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the
>> prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when
>> the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is
>> 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
>> any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
>> the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
>> start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a
>> lightweight
>> starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jason Sneed
>> Commercial Lending Officer
>> First National Bank and Trust
>>
>>
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: DeVilbiss E-Z Liners |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
I started using a gravity feed gun with the throw-away baggies on my
last project. Awesome!
I'll never go back to my suction feed gun again.
Laird RV-6
SoCal
>--> RV-List message posted by: <EricHe@FlexSolPackaging.com>
>
>
>Just wanted to throw this into the archives. Finally got to use my
>new box of DeVilbiss E-Z Liners this weekend. Its an innexpensive
>kit with zip lock bags and inserts that go into the neck of any
>gravity feed HVLP gun. You insert a receptical into the base of your
>guns cup, then put an insert into the bag, you poke the two together
>with an insert tool. Pour in your paint, zip the bag closed with the
>help of the zipper tool. Turn the gun upside down and spray until
>paint comes out. Once the gun is drawing paint, you can paint in any
>direction with absolutely no difference (that I observed) in the way
>the paint comes out. You also don't have to clean out your cup when
>you are done. Fits all guns.
>
>This weekend I shot the bottom of a 6A and this worked out great
>with my Sharpe SGF gun. The cost is about 25 bucks which beats the
>stink out of buying a pressure pot to paint the bottom surfaces.
>Here's a link. Do a search for E-Z liners in the gun cup section.
>
>Build On
>
>Eric
>
>
>http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
What kind of starter are you using? My O-320-A2A with a Sky-Tec starter,
Odyssey battery and Marvel carb with accel pump but no primer lines turns
over and starts fine even in the 40's. On a trip to Nampa, ID last winter
it started fine at 38 one morning. (Knock on wood)
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: air-oil separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
I bought the $38.50 job,
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php
cut a big hole on the front, made a cover for it, and stuffed it with
stainless steel pot scrubbers. The drain hose is about 14" long and ends in a
radiator-type petcock. At 50 hour checkout on a re-ringed engine, I only got about
a teaspoon of water and a tablespoon of oil out of it, and have a
barely-noticeable film on the belly. The exit vent hose is about 1/2" from the
exhaust
pipe. At 100 hrs I'll add more scrubbers to see how that works. Let me know if
ya want a foto of the surgery...
From The PossumWorks
Mark -6A, FLYING!
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Engine temps always lag behind the air temps when warming up because thats
a very large mass that needs to change temp. If at 5am it was 45 air temp
and then 9am its 55 the engine will still be at 45, on its very long
journey to reaching current temps. I dont have a heated hanger but this is
what I see. By the way I also have a PC680 battery and the engine is IO-360
with 9.2:1. Can you borrow a starter from somebody and try it out? Thats
about the only other area to look other than connections, power, gnd, etc.
At 10:47 AM 3/23/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
>The hangar temp and the engine temp were the same that day, 54 degrees.
>
>
>On Mar 23, 2004, at 10:27 AM, Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
>> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>> From my experience, at 65 (engine temp) the first few blades turn very
>> slow
>> and then a immediate start (elect ign). After the engine warms up as
>> you
>> mentioned its a non issue. I was told by my engine builder to pre heat
>> the
>> engine any time the temps get into the 50's. Not so much for ease of
>> starting but to get the oil flowing in a timely manner after starting.
>> The
>> side benefit to this is the engine will turn over faster when starting.
>> Another thing to consider is OAT and engine temp. You mentioned it was
>> 55
>> when you went flying. I bet the internal engine temp was 45, no wonder
>> you
>> were having problems turning the engine over.
>>
>> Pre heat the engine when temps are leAt 10:07 AM 3/23/04 -0600, you
>> wrote:
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>>>
>>> I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane
>>> was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for
>>> the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup
>>> although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder
>>> installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra
>>> power.
>>>
>>> During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery
>>> just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one
>>> occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a
>>> new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that
>>> seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new
>>> battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the
>>> luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another
>>> 5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low
>>> was
>>> 40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I
>>> went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the
>>> prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when
>>> the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is
>>> 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
>>> any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
>>> the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
>>> start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a
>>> lightweight
>>> starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Jason Sneed
>>> Commercial Lending Officer
>>> First National Bank and Trust
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Scott Bilinski
>> Eng dept 305
>> Phone (858) 657-2536
>> Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
>>
>> _-
>> =======================================================================
>> _-
>> =======================================================================
>> _-
>> =======================================================================
>> _-
>> =======================================================================
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>Jason Sneed
>Commercial Lending Officer
>First National Bank and Trust
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <rv3@comcast.net>
Albert Gardner wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
>
>
>What kind of starter are you using? My O-320-A2A with a Sky-Tec starter,
>Odyssey battery and Marvel carb with accel pump but no primer lines turns
>over and starts fine even in the 40's. On a trip to Nampa, ID last winter
>it started fine at 38 one morning. (Knock on wood)
>Albert Gardner
>RV-9A 872RV
>Yuma, AZ
>
>
Similar results here using a Wal-mart lawn and garden battery to power
my 0-320 into the 30's.
My starter was originally issued to a 1980 Toyota truck. Yes, Toyota
truck. :-)
Bob
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Phil & Bill,
This same question was recently answered by Mahlon (of Mattituck) on the Lycoming
list recently. Phil is correct, the H2AD pistons can be used in the standard
O-320s to affect a compression increase to 9.2 to 1. They can also be used
in the parallel valve O-360s as well. There is an increase in the weight of these
pistons though.
Charlie Kuss
>
> From: "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
> Date: 2004/03/23 Tue AM 10:00:10 EST
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Pistons...
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Jason Sneed wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
>I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane
>was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for
>the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup
>although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder
>installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra
>power.
>
>During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery
>just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one
>occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a
>new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that
>seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new
>battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the
>luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another
>5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low was
>40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I
>went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the
>prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when
>the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is
>12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
>any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
>the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
>start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a lightweight
>starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jason Sneed
>Commercial Lending Officer
>First National Bank and Trust
>
Go to http://www.skytecair.com/ and click 'troubleshooting'. If you
follow his directions carefully and accurately, you'll find your
problem. All you need is a voltmeter and patience. You could be
suffering from poor grounds (is there a ground strap from the engine to
the airframe?), too small a starter cable ..... just a number of things.
Linn
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
> any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
> the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
> start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a lightweight
> starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
If the battery is deemed healthy, then I would look much more closely at the
wiring than at the battery. That "little battery in back" sounds like a
real hackety hack bandaid for a poorly designed system.
Specifically, how's the engine ground strap doing? Poor engine grounding
could be the culprit, I suppose.
And what gauge is the wire running to the starter, how long is that run,
etc.?
Those are the first things I would check if the battery otherwise seems
healthy.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Remove bugs not wax? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
So how does everyone go about cleaning their plane, removing bugs etc, with
out removing the great wax job from the previous week? Most cleaners will
remove the wax wont they?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Remove bugs not wax? |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
Plain old cold water and a towel works for me!
Cash Copeland
RV-6 Hayward, Ca
In a message dated 3/23/2004 9:54:48 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
So how does everyone go about cleaning their plane, removing bugs etc, with
out removing the great wax job from the previous week? Most cleaners will
remove the wax wont they?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: air-oil separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Mark,
I love it. A simple, low cost cure for the slimy belly. I bought a surplus certified
seperator at Sun N' Fun last year. I had considered an upgrade till reading
your post. Great idea. Thanks.
Charlie Kuss
>
> From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
> Date: 2004/03/23 Tue PM 12:34:18 EST
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: air-oil separator
>
>
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Charlie... Did he mention the part number?
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pistons...
--> RV-List message posted by: <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Phil & Bill,
This same question was recently answered by Mahlon (of Mattituck) on the
Lycoming list recently. Phil is correct, the H2AD pistons can be used in the
standard O-320s to affect a compression increase to 9.2 to 1. They can also
be used in the parallel valve O-360s as well. There is an increase in the
weight of these pistons though.
Charlie Kuss
>
> From: "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
> Date: 2004/03/23 Tue AM 10:00:10 EST
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Pistons...
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
What is the best type and gauge wire to run to the starter? Not sure
what size I hae but the battery is located between the rudder pedals.
Jason
On Mar 23, 2004, at 11:51 AM, Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>> 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
>> any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
>> the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
>> start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a
>> lightweight
>> starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
>
> If the battery is deemed healthy, then I would look much more closely
> at the
> wiring than at the battery. That "little battery in back" sounds like
> a
> real hackety hack bandaid for a poorly designed system.
>
> Specifically, how's the engine ground strap doing? Poor engine
> grounding
> could be the culprit, I suppose.
>
> And what gauge is the wire running to the starter, how long is that
> run,
> etc.?
>
> Those are the first things I would check if the battery otherwise seems
> healthy.
>
> Hope this helps,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: EL lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson," <sisson@consolidated.net>
Christopher Stone wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
>
> Conductive epoxy is available from
>
> http://www.masterbond.com/sg/ecsg.html
>
> I too purchased the green EL strips from Buy.Com...
>
> Great price!
>
> Dan,
>
> Thanks for the data collection.
>
> Chris Stone
> RV8
> Newberg, OR
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: EL lighting
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> I received my EL lighting tapes last week from Buy.com and thought some
> Listers may be interested in the following information about them. To get free
> shipping, I ordered 3 EL kits to get the total over $25. The red ones were
> cheaper -- about $8.95, than the green ones, and I thought I may want red anyway,
> so I ordered 2 reds and one green. The green EL tapes are brighter than the
> red, and much more efficient (see below). And my 2 reds were different colors.
> One was almost purple, and not near as bright as the other red. Also, all
> three inverters were different. One was much smaller than the other two. The
> dimensions of the larger ones are 1 3/4 by 1 by 15/16 high, not counting the
> mounting ears. The smaller one is 1 1/16 by 11/16 by 13/16 high. The inverters
> have 2 cables and connectors to drive 2 tapes, so maybe you can buy the tapes
> separately.
>
> The package has some specs on the inverter. The input is 12V and has a
> connector which mates to a disk drive power cable in the computer. The output
is
> 90 VAC at 1 KHz. I measured the input current on one of the inverters driving
> each strip as: green 28 mA, red 64 mA, and purple 32 mA. When driving no
> strip at all the current was 15 mA. The current is less at lower voltage. This
> limited testing shows that the green is much more efficient. The point is that
> there is a lot of variation between the different colors. Of course, I don't
> have enough strips to be sure that my data is typical of all the parts.
>
> The width of the strip according to the package is 0.3 inches, but they
> measured 0.4, 0.5 and 0.55 inches! The 0.55 inches was because of sloppy assembly,
> the two outside clear tapes were offset from each other. The length is
> (almost) 5 feet and can be cut off, but I don't know how you would connect to
the
> unused piece to use it again. At Delco we had some conductive epoxy which
> would work, but I don't know where to get it now, and its probably expensive.
> Does anyone know? Short pieces may come in handy to light instruments, switches,
> etc.
>
> I'm not unhappy with these EL lighting strips. I think I will make use of at
> least one of them, and the price is great.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (Building my RV-9 rudder before the first flight, not that I intend on
> doing spins!)
>
what does Buy.com list them as as?
Tnx, Phil
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Remove bugs not wax? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
I use Rejex instead of wax. It works great down here in Louisiana where we
have a bug or two.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
The wire should run between your starter contactor and the starter. I used
2 AWG for mine.
How are your contactors wired?
My battery (+) terminal is wired to the battery contactor with 2 AWG. The
starter contactor is linked to the battery contactor with two short solid
strips of copper for the least possible resistance (within reason). From
there, a 2 AWG wire runs to the starter. This is pretty much status quo for
the latest Van's FWF kits, I believe.
This may be operation overkill, but it cranks like a mutha...
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: starter problem?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
> What is the best type and gauge wire to run to the starter? Not sure
> what size I hae but the battery is located between the rudder pedals.
>
>
> Jason
> On Mar 23, 2004, at 11:51 AM, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> >> 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
> >> any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
> >> the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
> >> start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a
> >> lightweight
> >> starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
> >
> > If the battery is deemed healthy, then I would look much more closely
> > at the
> > wiring than at the battery. That "little battery in back" sounds like
> > a
> > real hackety hack bandaid for a poorly designed system.
> >
> > Specifically, how's the engine ground strap doing? Poor engine
> > grounding
> > could be the culprit, I suppose.
> >
> > And what gauge is the wire running to the starter, how long is that
> > run,
> > etc.?
> >
> > Those are the first things I would check if the battery otherwise seems
> > healthy.
> >
> > Hope this helps,
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> Jason Sneed
> Commercial Lending Officer
> First National Bank and Trust
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Remove bugs not wax? |
--> RV-List message posted by: PSILeD@aol.com
Hi Wayne,
next time you see Glenn tell him I am trying to plan a trip to ElDorado next
month. I will come by Farmerville for a visit. Will let him know.
Paul leDoux
RV-8 QB (slowbuild)
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Canadian fuel price conversion tool |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Yes...I am definitely that lazy.
http://www.rvproject.com/convert.jsp
This is a new quickie tool that lets you convert fuel prices from Canadian
dollars per liter to US dollars per gallon. Hope this helps some other lazy
fools out there like me...
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Remove bugs not wax? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
He would like that. He has told me some about some of your adventures.
I will let him know that I heard from you. We have 3 RV's flying in
Farmerville.
My 8A, 7A, and an 8 taildragger.
Wayne Petrus
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Canadian fuel price conversion tool |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
Dan
I'm that lazy as well, could you set one up for those of us who want to
convert the other way....We've been doing it so long I'm comfortable in
liters now.
Joe Hine
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: RV-List: Canadian fuel price conversion tool
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Yes...I am definitely that lazy.
http://www.rvproject.com/convert.jsp
This is a new quickie tool that lets you convert fuel prices from Canadian
dollars per liter to US dollars per gallon. Hope this helps some other lazy
fools out there like me...
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
The part number is LW-15357 for the 9.2 to 1 pistons
Charlie
>
> From: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
> Date: 2004/03/23 Tue PM 01:30:23 EST
> To: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pistons...
>
> Charlie... Did he mention the part number?
>
> -Bill
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 10:45 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pistons...
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Phil & Bill,
> This same question was recently answered by Mahlon (of Mattituck) on the
> Lycoming list recently. Phil is correct, the H2AD pistons can be used in the
> standard O-320s to affect a compression increase to 9.2 to 1. They can also
> be used in the parallel valve O-360s as well. There is an increase in the
> weight of these pistons though.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >
> > From: "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
> > Date: 2004/03/23 Tue AM 10:00:10 EST
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Pistons...
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: air-oil separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
Bob: Read the attached post from the old Possumworks. He is right on. It
is the same solution that I used. His design "captures" the crud for
draining when he does maintenance. I put a bulb from ACS low on the
firewall. I could drain mine as part of a pre-flight walkaround similar to
the gascolator.
I think that re-ingesting back into the engine is indeed BAD. Letting the
crud drip onto the hot exhaust is also BAD, if you have a stainless steel
system. Any carbon in this mixture could possibly create cracks in the
stainless eventually IMHO.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90% Complete - Instruments, Final Paint
>> The more important question may be....Is it good for your engine to be
re-ingesting this nasty 'goop'?
>> IMO...'Tis better and cheaper to let the contaminated water laded oil
gunk drip on the hot exhaust ... Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: air-oil separator
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> I bought the $38.50 job,
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php
>
> cut a big hole on the front, made a cover for it, and stuffed it with
> stainless steel pot scrubbers. The drain hose is about 14" long and ends
in a
> radiator-type petcock. At 50 hour checkout on a re-ringed engine, I only
got about
> a teaspoon of water and a tablespoon of oil out of it, and have a
> barely-noticeable film on the belly. The exit vent hose is about 1/2"
from the exhaust
> pipe. At 100 hrs I'll add more scrubbers to see how that works. Let me
know if
> ya want a foto of the surgery...
>
> From The PossumWorks
> Mark -6A, FLYING!
>
>
Message 32
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <austin@uniserve.com>
Listers,
Once in a while, I would get a severe shimmy on rollout on my 6A,
and I mean really bad, and I was sure it was the nose wheel at fault.
Well, it was, the tire was hugely out of round and I replaced it and balanced it
and got a few nice landings and then the dreaded " wet dog shake " on rollout
a couple of times..
I mean, this was a really bad shake and I could not stop it...
A friend suggested the fault may be a main gear leg walking back and forth quickly
since he had a similar problem which went away when he lowered pressure and
got nice new tires..
I am wondering what tires are a better choice to buy.....also, I am convinced too
that less that stirling pilot skill is at play here too, since after I took
a bit of air out to about 22 lbs., my landing was great and smoother because
I held the stick back sooner and farther than ever.
Shimmy was only present at low speed as when almost ready to turn off to the taxi
way....this seems most common on 6As anyway and I think will never disappear
completely..
Also, I had a friend fly the a/c while I watched the landings with binoculars and
found the nose gear behaves very nicely , but on one landing, the left main
was wobbly as hell...go figure...
The fact that the shimmy was not there each and every landing makes me wonder what
and how to diagnose the fault...
I do want to get new tires though..any suggestions ?
Austin
do not archive
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: > Re: Remove Bugs Not Wax |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I have an antique Maytag wringer washer in the hangar,with a foot switch to
start the wringer. I keep the chamoise and towel there and wash off the bugs
while they are fresh and juicy. As another said; fresh water doesn't remove
the wax.
Bob Olds -- RV-4 , N1191X
oldsfolks@aol.com
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: EL lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 3/23/04 2:52:57 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
sisson@consolidated.net writes:
>
> what does Buy.com list them as as?
>
> Tnx, Phil
>
>
Go to buy.com and search for "tape strip".
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Canadian fuel price conversion tool |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Dan
>
> I'm that lazy as well, could you set one up for those of us who want to
> convert the other way....We've been doing it so long I'm comfortable in
> liters now.
>
> Joe Hine
You got it...now it'll convert both ways.
do not archive
)_( Dan
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: starter problem? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Along these lines: Is it still considered proper to run the starter current
through the master relay, the starter relay, and then the starter solenoid?
Each of these contactors has actually 2 contacts inside. Wow thats 6 contacts
that have to make between the battery and starter!
Dan
RV-7A (almost done)
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Renesis (was: Engines again / Weights) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
At the risk of offending the fanatics, I just love reading about these
types of experiments with the good AND bad without all the "Pie in the
Sky" better, faster, cheaper than Lycoming bashing. Real World Solutions
is an apt name. Thanks Tracy!
Neil McLeod
7QB AEIO-360, baffles
Thank you Neil. Lycoming bashing really does not hold much water. We have all
heard the "Obsolete 1930's technology" type comments but the truth is that if
you were to design a simple, reliable and lightweight piston engine with today's
technology, it would look a lot like a Lycoming.
OK, so maybe the magnetos would have to go : )
Tracy Crook
Message 38
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| Subject: | RV 3 Kit for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brett Ray" <brett@hog-air.com>
Is anyone interested in a RV3 kit? Make me an offer.
I was going to put it together but I am just to busy with other stuff
right now. Sooo..
I am not sure every piece is there but most of it is.
Stuff like,
Wing Ribs
wing skins
Bulkheads
canopy
all the fiberglass cowlings, wing tips, fairings etc.
Motor mount/landing gear
angles, chanels, panels and so on
a box full of rivits and hardware.
a 70in. Sensenich metal prop and spinner
fuel tank
and a O 290 lycoming engine all apart and in rough shape. My
understanding was it was all gone through new bearings, rings etc.
then never put back together. So things rusted. I am sure the cases,
carb and stuff like that are still good.
If you are interested give me a call at 618-937-6767
Make me an offer. I need some money for Sun N Fun.
Brett Ray
Hog-Air.com
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