---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 03/23/04: 38 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:10 AM - air-oil separator (Wayne Pedersen) 2. 06:14 AM - Re: Re: EL lighting (Christopher Stone) 3. 07:02 AM - Pistons... (pcondon) 4. 07:13 AM - Re: Air-Oil Seperator (Oldsfolks@aol.com) 5. 08:07 AM - starter problem? (Jason Sneed) 6. 08:28 AM - Re: starter problem? (Scott Bilinski) 7. 08:36 AM - Re: Pistons... (Bill VonDane) 8. 08:36 AM - Re: air-oil separator (Bob) 9. 08:47 AM - Re: starter problem? (Jason Sneed) 10. 09:12 AM - Re: DeVilbiss E-Z Liners (Laird Owens) 11. 09:17 AM - Re: starter problem? (Albert Gardner) 12. 09:34 AM - Re: air-oil separator (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 13. 09:34 AM - Re: starter problem? (Scott Bilinski) 14. 09:39 AM - Re: starter problem? (Bob) 15. 09:45 AM - Re: Pistons... () 16. 09:49 AM - Re: starter problem? (linn walters) 17. 09:53 AM - Re: starter problem? (Dan Checkoway) 18. 09:54 AM - Remove bugs not wax? (Scott Bilinski) 19. 10:01 AM - Re: Remove bugs not wax? (JusCash@aol.com) 20. 10:02 AM - Re: Re: air-oil separator () 21. 10:30 AM - Re: Pistons... (Bill VonDane) 22. 10:44 AM - Re: starter problem? (Jason Sneed) 23. 11:51 AM - Re: Re: EL lighting (Phil Sisson,) 24. 12:15 PM - Re: Remove bugs not wax? (Dwpetrus@aol.com) 25. 12:18 PM - Re: starter problem? (Dan Checkoway) 26. 12:25 PM - Re: Remove bugs not wax? (PSILeD@aol.com) 27. 12:33 PM - Canadian fuel price conversion tool (Dan Checkoway) 28. 12:40 PM - Re: Remove bugs not wax? (Dwpetrus@aol.com) 29. 01:22 PM - Re: Canadian fuel price conversion tool (Joe Hine) 30. 01:59 PM - Re: Re: Pistons... () 31. 02:54 PM - Re: air-oil separator (Ernest Kells) 32. 03:16 PM - Aero trainers (Austin) 33. 03:16 PM - > Re: Remove Bugs Not Wax (Oldsfolks@aol.com) 34. 03:34 PM - Re: Re: EL lighting (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 35. 04:10 PM - Re: Canadian fuel price conversion tool (Dan Checkoway) 36. 04:12 PM - Re: starter problem? (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 37. 09:13 PM - Re: Renesis (was: Engines again / Weights) (Tracy Crook) 38. 09:50 PM - RV 3 Kit for sale (Brett Ray) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:10:58 AM PST US From: "Wayne Pedersen" Subject: RV-List: air-oil separator --> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" Cant seem to find any info in the archives on this slime/oil on the belly apparatus. Anyone have any experience with these air-oil separators ? A/S has them as cheap as $38.50 and up. Vans is $157.00 Do they work ? and Is this $$$ well spent. Suggestions ? Thanks Wayne RV7a IO-360 Finishing S.Alberta --- ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:14:22 AM PST US From: Christopher Stone Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: EL lighting --> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone Conductive epoxy is available from http://www.masterbond.com/sg/ecsg.html I too purchased the green EL strips from Buy.Com... Great price! Dan, Thanks for the data collection. Chris Stone RV8 Newberg, OR -----Original Message----- From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: EL lighting --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com I received my EL lighting tapes last week from Buy.com and thought some Listers may be interested in the following information about them. To get free shipping, I ordered 3 EL kits to get the total over $25. The red ones were cheaper -- about $8.95, than the green ones, and I thought I may want red anyway, so I ordered 2 reds and one green. The green EL tapes are brighter than the red, and much more efficient (see below). And my 2 reds were different colors. One was almost purple, and not near as bright as the other red. Also, all three inverters were different. One was much smaller than the other two. The dimensions of the larger ones are 1 3/4 by 1 by 15/16 high, not counting the mounting ears. The smaller one is 1 1/16 by 11/16 by 13/16 high. The inverters have 2 cables and connectors to drive 2 tapes, so maybe you can buy the tapes separately. The package has some specs on the inverter. The input is 12V and has a connector which mates to a disk drive power cable in the computer. The output is 90 VAC at 1 KHz. I measured the input current on one of the inverters driving each strip as: green 28 mA, red 64 mA, and purple 32 mA. When driving no strip at all the current was 15 mA. The current is less at lower voltage. This limited testing shows that the green is much more efficient. The point is that there is a lot of variation between the different colors. Of course, I don't have enough strips to be sure that my data is typical of all the parts. The width of the strip according to the package is 0.3 inches, but they measured 0.4, 0.5 and 0.55 inches! The 0.55 inches was because of sloppy assembly, the two outside clear tapes were offset from each other. The length is (almost) 5 feet and can be cut off, but I don't know how you would connect to the unused piece to use it again. At Delco we had some conductive epoxy which would work, but I don't know where to get it now, and its probably expensive. Does anyone know? Short pieces may come in handy to light instruments, switches, etc. I'm not unhappy with these EL lighting strips. I think I will make use of at least one of them, and the price is great. Regards, Dan Hopper RV-7A (Building my RV-9 rudder before the first flight, not that I intend on doing spins!) ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:02:22 AM PST US From: "pcondon" Subject: RV-List: Pistons... --> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" I recall the trick of using the -H2AD pistons in a standard O-320 for a compression rise. Being "standard" pistons for the -H2AD, the cost isn't outrageous for hi compression pistons-for standard O-320's..... Does anyone else recall this...or maybe I should replace the filter in my paint mask more often..... ime: 09:09:41 AM PST US From: Bill VonDane Subject: RV-List: Pistons... vansairforce --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane Anyone have any high compression pistons for an O320? -Bill VonDane EAA Tech Counselor RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs www.vondane.com ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:13:53 AM PST US From: Oldsfolks@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Re: Air-Oil Seperator --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com Wayne; I had my crankcase vent tube led down to the exhaust pipe and pointed dead against the pipe. About 1/8" clearance. The oil hits the hot pipe and bakes so there is just dry ash to get on the belly. Bob Olds -- RV-4 , N1191X oldsfolks@aol.com A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:07:55 AM PST US From: Jason Sneed Subject: RV-List: starter problem? --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra power. During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another 5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low was 40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a lightweight starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great. Thanks, Jason Sneed Commercial Lending Officer First National Bank and Trust ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:28:02 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: starter problem? --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski From my experience, at 65 (engine temp) the first few blades turn very slow and then a immediate start (elect ign). After the engine warms up as you mentioned its a non issue. I was told by my engine builder to pre heat the engine any time the temps get into the 50's. Not so much for ease of starting but to get the oil flowing in a timely manner after starting. The side benefit to this is the engine will turn over faster when starting. Another thing to consider is OAT and engine temp. You mentioned it was 55 when you went flying. I bet the internal engine temp was 45, no wonder you were having problems turning the engine over. Pre heat the engine when temps are leAt 10:07 AM 3/23/04 -0600, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed > >I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane >was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for >the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup >although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder >installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra >power. > >During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery >just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one >occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a >new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that >seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new >battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the >luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another >5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low was >40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I >went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the >prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when >the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is >12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have >any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of >the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to >start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a lightweight >starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great. > >Thanks, > >Jason Sneed >Commercial Lending Officer >First National Bank and Trust > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:36:15 AM PST US From: Bill VonDane Subject: Re: RV-List: Pistons... --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane Hey Gary... Do you have any input on whether to use the 8.5:1 vs the 9:1 pistons? There seems to be about a $50 difference from ECI... Do you know that kind of HP I will get? -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV6 Flyer" Subject: RE: RV-List: Pistons... --> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" http://www.lycon.com/nfs.htm Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,447 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com ----Original Message Follows---- From: Bill VonDane Subject: RV-List: Pistons... --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane Anyone have any high compression pistons for an O320? -Bill VonDane EAA Tech Counselor RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com do not archive Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:36:15 AM PST US From: Bob Subject: Re: RV-List: air-oil separator --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Wayne Pedersen wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" > >Cant seem to find any info in the archives on this slime/oil on the belly >apparatus. Anyone have any experience with these air-oil separators ? A/S >has them as cheap as $38.50 and up. Vans is $157.00 Do they work ? and Is >this $$$ well spent. Suggestions ? > >Thanks > >Wayne >RV7a IO-360 Finishing >S.Alberta > The more important question may be.... Is it good for your engine to be re-ingesting this nasty 'goop'? IMO... 'Tis better and cheaper to let the contaminated water laded oil gunk drip on the hot exhaust or catch it in a container for later disposal. Bob ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:47:33 AM PST US From: Jason Sneed Subject: Re: RV-List: starter problem? --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed The hangar temp and the engine temp were the same that day, 54 degrees. On Mar 23, 2004, at 10:27 AM, Scott Bilinski wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski > > > From my experience, at 65 (engine temp) the first few blades turn very > slow > and then a immediate start (elect ign). After the engine warms up as > you > mentioned its a non issue. I was told by my engine builder to pre heat > the > engine any time the temps get into the 50's. Not so much for ease of > starting but to get the oil flowing in a timely manner after starting. > The > side benefit to this is the engine will turn over faster when starting. > Another thing to consider is OAT and engine temp. You mentioned it was > 55 > when you went flying. I bet the internal engine temp was 45, no wonder > you > were having problems turning the engine over. > > Pre heat the engine when temps are leAt 10:07 AM 3/23/04 -0600, you > wrote: >> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed >> >> I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane >> was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for >> the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup >> although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder >> installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra >> power. >> >> During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery >> just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one >> occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a >> new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that >> seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new >> battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the >> luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another >> 5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low >> was >> 40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I >> went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the >> prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when >> the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is >> 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have >> any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of >> the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to >> start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a >> lightweight >> starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Jason Sneed >> Commercial Lending Officer >> First National Bank and Trust >> >> > > > Scott Bilinski > Eng dept 305 > Phone (858) 657-2536 > Pager (858) 502-5190 > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > Jason Sneed Commercial Lending Officer First National Bank and Trust ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 09:12:02 AM PST US From: Laird Owens Subject: Re: RV-List: DeVilbiss E-Z Liners --> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens I started using a gravity feed gun with the throw-away baggies on my last project. Awesome! I'll never go back to my suction feed gun again. Laird RV-6 SoCal >--> RV-List message posted by: > > >Just wanted to throw this into the archives. Finally got to use my >new box of DeVilbiss E-Z Liners this weekend. Its an innexpensive >kit with zip lock bags and inserts that go into the neck of any >gravity feed HVLP gun. You insert a receptical into the base of your >guns cup, then put an insert into the bag, you poke the two together >with an insert tool. Pour in your paint, zip the bag closed with the >help of the zipper tool. Turn the gun upside down and spray until >paint comes out. Once the gun is drawing paint, you can paint in any >direction with absolutely no difference (that I observed) in the way >the paint comes out. You also don't have to clean out your cup when >you are done. Fits all guns. > >This weekend I shot the bottom of a 6A and this worked out great >with my Sharpe SGF gun. The cost is about 25 bucks which beats the >stink out of buying a pressure pot to paint the bottom surfaces. >Here's a link. Do a search for E-Z liners in the gun cup section. > >Build On > >Eric > > >http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/ > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 09:17:34 AM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: Re: RV-List: starter problem? --> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" What kind of starter are you using? My O-320-A2A with a Sky-Tec starter, Odyssey battery and Marvel carb with accel pump but no primer lines turns over and starts fine even in the 40's. On a trip to Nampa, ID last winter it started fine at 38 one morning. (Knock on wood) Albert Gardner RV-9A 872RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 09:34:58 AM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: air-oil separator --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com I bought the $38.50 job, http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php cut a big hole on the front, made a cover for it, and stuffed it with stainless steel pot scrubbers. The drain hose is about 14" long and ends in a radiator-type petcock. At 50 hour checkout on a re-ringed engine, I only got about a teaspoon of water and a tablespoon of oil out of it, and have a barely-noticeable film on the belly. The exit vent hose is about 1/2" from the exhaust pipe. At 100 hrs I'll add more scrubbers to see how that works. Let me know if ya want a foto of the surgery... From The PossumWorks Mark -6A, FLYING! ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 09:34:58 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: starter problem? --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski Engine temps always lag behind the air temps when warming up because thats a very large mass that needs to change temp. If at 5am it was 45 air temp and then 9am its 55 the engine will still be at 45, on its very long journey to reaching current temps. I dont have a heated hanger but this is what I see. By the way I also have a PC680 battery and the engine is IO-360 with 9.2:1. Can you borrow a starter from somebody and try it out? Thats about the only other area to look other than connections, power, gnd, etc. At 10:47 AM 3/23/04 -0600, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed > >The hangar temp and the engine temp were the same that day, 54 degrees. > > >On Mar 23, 2004, at 10:27 AM, Scott Bilinski wrote: > >> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski >> >> >> From my experience, at 65 (engine temp) the first few blades turn very >> slow >> and then a immediate start (elect ign). After the engine warms up as >> you >> mentioned its a non issue. I was told by my engine builder to pre heat >> the >> engine any time the temps get into the 50's. Not so much for ease of >> starting but to get the oil flowing in a timely manner after starting. >> The >> side benefit to this is the engine will turn over faster when starting. >> Another thing to consider is OAT and engine temp. You mentioned it was >> 55 >> when you went flying. I bet the internal engine temp was 45, no wonder >> you >> were having problems turning the engine over. >> >> Pre heat the engine when temps are leAt 10:07 AM 3/23/04 -0600, you >> wrote: >>> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed >>> >>> I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane >>> was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for >>> the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup >>> although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder >>> installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra >>> power. >>> >>> During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery >>> just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one >>> occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a >>> new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that >>> seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new >>> battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the >>> luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another >>> 5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low >>> was >>> 40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I >>> went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the >>> prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when >>> the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is >>> 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have >>> any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of >>> the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to >>> start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a >>> lightweight >>> starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Jason Sneed >>> Commercial Lending Officer >>> First National Bank and Trust >>> >>> >> >> >> Scott Bilinski >> Eng dept 305 >> Phone (858) 657-2536 >> Pager (858) 502-5190 >> >> >> _- >> ======================================================================= >> _- >> ======================================================================= >> _- >> ======================================================================= >> _- >> ======================================================================= >> > >> >> > > >Jason Sneed >Commercial Lending Officer >First National Bank and Trust > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:39:21 AM PST US From: Bob Subject: Re: RV-List: starter problem? --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Albert Gardner wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" > > >What kind of starter are you using? My O-320-A2A with a Sky-Tec starter, >Odyssey battery and Marvel carb with accel pump but no primer lines turns >over and starts fine even in the 40's. On a trip to Nampa, ID last winter >it started fine at 38 one morning. (Knock on wood) >Albert Gardner >RV-9A 872RV >Yuma, AZ > > Similar results here using a Wal-mart lawn and garden battery to power my 0-320 into the 30's. My starter was originally issued to a 1980 Toyota truck. Yes, Toyota truck. :-) Bob ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 09:45:25 AM PST US From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Pistons... --> RV-List message posted by: Phil & Bill, This same question was recently answered by Mahlon (of Mattituck) on the Lycoming list recently. Phil is correct, the H2AD pistons can be used in the standard O-320s to affect a compression increase to 9.2 to 1. They can also be used in the parallel valve O-360s as well. There is an increase in the weight of these pistons though. Charlie Kuss > > From: "pcondon" > Date: 2004/03/23 Tue AM 10:00:10 EST > To: > Subject: RV-List: Pistons... > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 09:49:35 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: starter problem? --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters Jason Sneed wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed > >I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane >was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for >the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup >although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder >installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra >power. > >During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery >just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one >occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a >new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that >seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new >battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the >luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another >5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low was >40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I >went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the >prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when >the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is >12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have >any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of >the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to >start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a lightweight >starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great. > >Thanks, > >Jason Sneed >Commercial Lending Officer >First National Bank and Trust > Go to http://www.skytecair.com/ and click 'troubleshooting'. If you follow his directions carefully and accurately, you'll find your problem. All you need is a voltmeter and patience. You could be suffering from poor grounds (is there a ground strap from the engine to the airframe?), too small a starter cable ..... just a number of things. Linn ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 09:53:16 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: starter problem? --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have > any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of > the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to > start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a lightweight > starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great. If the battery is deemed healthy, then I would look much more closely at the wiring than at the battery. That "little battery in back" sounds like a real hackety hack bandaid for a poorly designed system. Specifically, how's the engine ground strap doing? Poor engine grounding could be the culprit, I suppose. And what gauge is the wire running to the starter, how long is that run, etc.? Those are the first things I would check if the battery otherwise seems healthy. Hope this helps, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 09:54:12 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: RV-List: Remove bugs not wax? --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski So how does everyone go about cleaning their plane, removing bugs etc, with out removing the great wax job from the previous week? Most cleaners will remove the wax wont they? Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 10:01:47 AM PST US From: JusCash@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Remove bugs not wax? --> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com Plain old cold water and a towel works for me! Cash Copeland RV-6 Hayward, Ca In a message dated 3/23/2004 9:54:48 AM Pacific Standard Time, bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes: --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski So how does everyone go about cleaning their plane, removing bugs etc, with out removing the great wax job from the previous week? Most cleaners will remove the wax wont they? Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 10:02:34 AM PST US From: Subject: Re: Re: RV-List: air-oil separator --> RV-List message posted by: Mark, I love it. A simple, low cost cure for the slimy belly. I bought a surplus certified seperator at Sun N' Fun last year. I had considered an upgrade till reading your post. Great idea. Thanks. Charlie Kuss > > From: Fiveonepw@aol.com > Date: 2004/03/23 Tue PM 12:34:18 EST > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: air-oil separator > > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 10:30:09 AM PST US From: Bill VonDane Subject: Re: RV-List: Pistons... --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane Charlie... Did he mention the part number? -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Pistons... --> RV-List message posted by: Phil & Bill, This same question was recently answered by Mahlon (of Mattituck) on the Lycoming list recently. Phil is correct, the H2AD pistons can be used in the standard O-320s to affect a compression increase to 9.2 to 1. They can also be used in the parallel valve O-360s as well. There is an increase in the weight of these pistons though. Charlie Kuss > > From: "pcondon" > Date: 2004/03/23 Tue AM 10:00:10 EST > To: > Subject: RV-List: Pistons... > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 10:44:01 AM PST US From: Jason Sneed Subject: Re: RV-List: starter problem? --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed What is the best type and gauge wire to run to the starter? Not sure what size I hae but the battery is located between the rudder pedals. Jason On Mar 23, 2004, at 11:51 AM, Dan Checkoway wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > >> 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have >> any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of >> the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to >> start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a >> lightweight >> starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great. > > If the battery is deemed healthy, then I would look much more closely > at the > wiring than at the battery. That "little battery in back" sounds like > a > real hackety hack bandaid for a poorly designed system. > > Specifically, how's the engine ground strap doing? Poor engine > grounding > could be the culprit, I suppose. > > And what gauge is the wire running to the starter, how long is that > run, > etc.? > > Those are the first things I would check if the battery otherwise seems > healthy. > > Hope this helps, > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D > http://www.rvproject.com > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > Jason Sneed Commercial Lending Officer First National Bank and Trust ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 11:51:31 AM PST US From: "Phil Sisson," Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: EL lighting --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson," Christopher Stone wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone > > Conductive epoxy is available from > > http://www.masterbond.com/sg/ecsg.html > > I too purchased the green EL strips from Buy.Com... > > Great price! > > Dan, > > Thanks for the data collection. > > Chris Stone > RV8 > Newberg, OR > > -----Original Message----- > From: Hopperdhh@aol.com > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: EL lighting > > --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com > > I received my EL lighting tapes last week from Buy.com and thought some > Listers may be interested in the following information about them. To get free > shipping, I ordered 3 EL kits to get the total over $25. The red ones were > cheaper -- about $8.95, than the green ones, and I thought I may want red anyway, > so I ordered 2 reds and one green. The green EL tapes are brighter than the > red, and much more efficient (see below). And my 2 reds were different colors. > One was almost purple, and not near as bright as the other red. Also, all > three inverters were different. One was much smaller than the other two. The > dimensions of the larger ones are 1 3/4 by 1 by 15/16 high, not counting the > mounting ears. The smaller one is 1 1/16 by 11/16 by 13/16 high. The inverters > have 2 cables and connectors to drive 2 tapes, so maybe you can buy the tapes > separately. > > The package has some specs on the inverter. The input is 12V and has a > connector which mates to a disk drive power cable in the computer. The output is > 90 VAC at 1 KHz. I measured the input current on one of the inverters driving > each strip as: green 28 mA, red 64 mA, and purple 32 mA. When driving no > strip at all the current was 15 mA. The current is less at lower voltage. This > limited testing shows that the green is much more efficient. The point is that > there is a lot of variation between the different colors. Of course, I don't > have enough strips to be sure that my data is typical of all the parts. > > The width of the strip according to the package is 0.3 inches, but they > measured 0.4, 0.5 and 0.55 inches! The 0.55 inches was because of sloppy assembly, > the two outside clear tapes were offset from each other. The length is > (almost) 5 feet and can be cut off, but I don't know how you would connect to the > unused piece to use it again. At Delco we had some conductive epoxy which > would work, but I don't know where to get it now, and its probably expensive. > Does anyone know? Short pieces may come in handy to light instruments, switches, > etc. > > I'm not unhappy with these EL lighting strips. I think I will make use of at > least one of them, and the price is great. > > Regards, > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A (Building my RV-9 rudder before the first flight, not that I intend on > doing spins!) > what does Buy.com list them as as? Tnx, Phil ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 12:15:02 PM PST US From: Dwpetrus@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Remove bugs not wax? --> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com I use Rejex instead of wax. It works great down here in Louisiana where we have a bug or two. Wayne Petrus RV8A ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 12:18:52 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: starter problem? --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" The wire should run between your starter contactor and the starter. I used 2 AWG for mine. How are your contactors wired? My battery (+) terminal is wired to the battery contactor with 2 AWG. The starter contactor is linked to the battery contactor with two short solid strips of copper for the least possible resistance (within reason). From there, a 2 AWG wire runs to the starter. This is pretty much status quo for the latest Van's FWF kits, I believe. This may be operation overkill, but it cranks like a mutha... )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jason Sneed" Subject: Re: RV-List: starter problem? > --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed > > What is the best type and gauge wire to run to the starter? Not sure > what size I hae but the battery is located between the rudder pedals. > > > Jason > On Mar 23, 2004, at 11:51 AM, Dan Checkoway wrote: > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > > > >> 12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have > >> any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of > >> the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to > >> start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a > >> lightweight > >> starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great. > > > > If the battery is deemed healthy, then I would look much more closely > > at the > > wiring than at the battery. That "little battery in back" sounds like > > a > > real hackety hack bandaid for a poorly designed system. > > > > Specifically, how's the engine ground strap doing? Poor engine > > grounding > > could be the culprit, I suppose. > > > > And what gauge is the wire running to the starter, how long is that > > run, > > etc.? > > > > Those are the first things I would check if the battery otherwise seems > > healthy. > > > > Hope this helps, > > )_( Dan > > RV-7 N714D > > http://www.rvproject.com > > > > > > _- > > ======================================================================= > > _- > > ======================================================================= > > _- > > ======================================================================= > > _- > > ======================================================================= > > > > > > > > > > Jason Sneed > Commercial Lending Officer > First National Bank and Trust > > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 12:25:58 PM PST US From: PSILeD@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Remove bugs not wax? --> RV-List message posted by: PSILeD@aol.com Hi Wayne, next time you see Glenn tell him I am trying to plan a trip to ElDorado next month. I will come by Farmerville for a visit. Will let him know. Paul leDoux RV-8 QB (slowbuild) ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 12:33:13 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: Canadian fuel price conversion tool --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Yes...I am definitely that lazy. http://www.rvproject.com/convert.jsp This is a new quickie tool that lets you convert fuel prices from Canadian dollars per liter to US dollars per gallon. Hope this helps some other lazy fools out there like me... )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 12:40:30 PM PST US From: Dwpetrus@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Remove bugs not wax? --> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com He would like that. He has told me some about some of your adventures. I will let him know that I heard from you. We have 3 RV's flying in Farmerville. My 8A, 7A, and an 8 taildragger. Wayne Petrus ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 01:22:38 PM PST US From: "Joe Hine" Subject: RE: RV-List: Canadian fuel price conversion tool --> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" Dan I'm that lazy as well, could you set one up for those of us who want to convert the other way....We've been doing it so long I'm comfortable in liters now. Joe Hine -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway Subject: RV-List: Canadian fuel price conversion tool --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Yes...I am definitely that lazy. http://www.rvproject.com/convert.jsp This is a new quickie tool that lets you convert fuel prices from Canadian dollars per liter to US dollars per gallon. Hope this helps some other lazy fools out there like me... )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 01:59:54 PM PST US From: Subject: Re: Re: RV-List: Pistons... --> RV-List message posted by: The part number is LW-15357 for the 9.2 to 1 pistons Charlie > > From: Bill VonDane > Date: 2004/03/23 Tue PM 01:30:23 EST > To: Charlie Kuss > Subject: Re: RV-List: Pistons... > > Charlie... Did he mention the part number? > > -Bill > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 10:45 AM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Pistons... > > > --> RV-List message posted by: > > Phil & Bill, > This same question was recently answered by Mahlon (of Mattituck) on the > Lycoming list recently. Phil is correct, the H2AD pistons can be used in the > standard O-320s to affect a compression increase to 9.2 to 1. They can also > be used in the parallel valve O-360s as well. There is an increase in the > weight of these pistons though. > Charlie Kuss > > > > > From: "pcondon" > > Date: 2004/03/23 Tue AM 10:00:10 EST > > To: > > Subject: RV-List: Pistons... > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 02:54:01 PM PST US From: "Ernest Kells" Subject: Re: RV-List: air-oil separator --> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" Bob: Read the attached post from the old Possumworks. He is right on. It is the same solution that I used. His design "captures" the crud for draining when he does maintenance. I put a bulb from ACS low on the firewall. I could drain mine as part of a pre-flight walkaround similar to the gascolator. I think that re-ingesting back into the engine is indeed BAD. Letting the crud drip onto the hot exhaust is also BAD, if you have a stainless steel system. Any carbon in this mixture could possibly create cracks in the stainless eventually IMHO. Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop 90% Complete - Instruments, Final Paint >> The more important question may be....Is it good for your engine to be re-ingesting this nasty 'goop'? >> IMO...'Tis better and cheaper to let the contaminated water laded oil gunk drip on the hot exhaust ... Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: air-oil separator > --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com > > I bought the $38.50 job, > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php > > cut a big hole on the front, made a cover for it, and stuffed it with > stainless steel pot scrubbers. The drain hose is about 14" long and ends in a > radiator-type petcock. At 50 hour checkout on a re-ringed engine, I only got about > a teaspoon of water and a tablespoon of oil out of it, and have a > barely-noticeable film on the belly. The exit vent hose is about 1/2" from the exhaust > pipe. At 100 hrs I'll add more scrubbers to see how that works. Let me know if > ya want a foto of the surgery... > > From The PossumWorks > Mark -6A, FLYING! > > ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 03:16:00 PM PST US From: "Austin" Subject: RV-List: Aero trainers --> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" Listers, Once in a while, I would get a severe shimmy on rollout on my 6A, and I mean really bad, and I was sure it was the nose wheel at fault. Well, it was, the tire was hugely out of round and I replaced it and balanced it and got a few nice landings and then the dreaded " wet dog shake " on rollout a couple of times.. I mean, this was a really bad shake and I could not stop it... A friend suggested the fault may be a main gear leg walking back and forth quickly since he had a similar problem which went away when he lowered pressure and got nice new tires.. I am wondering what tires are a better choice to buy.....also, I am convinced too that less that stirling pilot skill is at play here too, since after I took a bit of air out to about 22 lbs., my landing was great and smoother because I held the stick back sooner and farther than ever. Shimmy was only present at low speed as when almost ready to turn off to the taxi way....this seems most common on 6As anyway and I think will never disappear completely.. Also, I had a friend fly the a/c while I watched the landings with binoculars and found the nose gear behaves very nicely , but on one landing, the left main was wobbly as hell...go figure... The fact that the shimmy was not there each and every landing makes me wonder what and how to diagnose the fault... I do want to get new tires though..any suggestions ? Austin do not archive ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 03:16:42 PM PST US From: Oldsfolks@aol.com Subject: RV-List: > Re: Remove Bugs Not Wax --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com I have an antique Maytag wringer washer in the hangar,with a foot switch to start the wringer. I keep the chamoise and towel there and wash off the bugs while they are fresh and juicy. As another said; fresh water doesn't remove the wax. Bob Olds -- RV-4 , N1191X oldsfolks@aol.com A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 03:34:55 PM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: EL lighting --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com In a message dated 3/23/04 2:52:57 PM US Eastern Standard Time, sisson@consolidated.net writes: > > what does Buy.com list them as as? > > Tnx, Phil > > Go to buy.com and search for "tape strip". ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 04:10:14 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Canadian fuel price conversion tool --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > Dan > > I'm that lazy as well, could you set one up for those of us who want to > convert the other way....We've been doing it so long I'm comfortable in > liters now. > > Joe Hine You got it...now it'll convert both ways. do not archive )_( Dan ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 04:12:22 PM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: starter problem? --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com Along these lines: Is it still considered proper to run the starter current through the master relay, the starter relay, and then the starter solenoid? Each of these contactors has actually 2 contacts inside. Wow thats 6 contacts that have to make between the battery and starter! Dan RV-7A (almost done) ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 09:13:14 PM PST US From: "Tracy Crook" Subject: Re: RV-List: Renesis (was: Engines again / Weights) --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" --> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" At the risk of offending the fanatics, I just love reading about these types of experiments with the good AND bad without all the "Pie in the Sky" better, faster, cheaper than Lycoming bashing. Real World Solutions is an apt name. Thanks Tracy! Neil McLeod 7QB AEIO-360, baffles Thank you Neil. Lycoming bashing really does not hold much water. We have all heard the "Obsolete 1930's technology" type comments but the truth is that if you were to design a simple, reliable and lightweight piston engine with today's technology, it would look a lot like a Lycoming. OK, so maybe the magnetos would have to go : ) Tracy Crook ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 09:50:44 PM PST US From: "Brett Ray" Subject: RV-List: RV 3 Kit for sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Brett Ray" Is anyone interested in a RV3 kit? Make me an offer. I was going to put it together but I am just to busy with other stuff right now. Sooo.. I am not sure every piece is there but most of it is. Stuff like, Wing Ribs wing skins Bulkheads canopy all the fiberglass cowlings, wing tips, fairings etc. Motor mount/landing gear angles, chanels, panels and so on a box full of rivits and hardware. a 70in. Sensenich metal prop and spinner fuel tank and a O 290 lycoming engine all apart and in rough shape. My understanding was it was all gone through new bearings, rings etc. then never put back together. So things rusted. I am sure the cases, carb and stuff like that are still good. If you are interested give me a call at 618-937-6767 Make me an offer. I need some money for Sun N Fun. Brett Ray Hog-Air.com