Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:51 AM - RV 7 Tip-UP Canopy Leak (Jim Nolan)
2. 03:27 AM - Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix (Roger Evenson)
3. 03:42 AM - Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix (Dana Overall)
4. 03:48 AM - Re: Cylinder Blocker (Lenleg@aol.com)
5. 03:53 AM - RV-list and virus (Jim Sears)
6. 04:18 AM - Re: Aero trainers (Robert E. Lynch)
7. 04:27 AM - Re: RV-list and virus (Art Glaser)
8. 04:27 AM - Re: Aero trainers (Charles Rowbotham)
9. 04:46 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 38 Msgs - 03/23/04 (DPrestonsr@aol.com)
10. 05:22 AM - Re: Cylinder Blocker (Pat Hatch)
11. 05:29 AM - Re: Aero trainers (Alex Peterson)
12. 05:44 AM - Re: Aero trainers (Robert E. Lynch)
13. 06:11 AM - Navaid pushrod safety (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
14. 07:16 AM - Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix (Tom Gummo)
15. 07:31 AM - Re: Navaid pushrod safety (Doug Rozendaal)
16. 07:40 AM - Re: Navaid pushrod safety (Sam Buchanan)
17. 08:14 AM - Rubber Cable Grommets (Ken Brooks)
18. 08:37 AM - Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix (JOHN STARN)
19. 08:41 AM - Re: Navaid pushrod safety (Harvey Sigmon)
20. 08:50 AM - Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix (Brian Denk)
21. 08:55 AM - >Re; Rubber Cable Grommets (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
22. 09:28 AM - Re: RV-list and virus (Ed Anderson)
23. 09:39 AM - Re: Navaid pushrod safety (Sam Buchanan)
24. 10:18 AM - Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix (HCRV6@aol.com)
25. 10:29 AM - Re: Navaid pushrod safety (Vanremog@aol.com)
26. 10:41 AM - Re: Pistons... (kempthornes)
27. 11:01 AM - Navaid Servo Installation (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
28. 11:35 AM - Garmin 296 (Bill VonDane)
29. 12:31 PM - Re: Navaid pushrod safety (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
30. 12:42 PM - Re: RV 7 Tip-UP Canopy Leak (JusCash@aol.com)
31. 02:52 PM - Re: Navaid pushrod safety (Sam Buchanan)
32. 03:26 PM - Re: Garmin 296 (Garry Legare)
33. 03:53 PM - Re: Navaid pushrod safety (JVanLaak@aol.com)
34. 07:42 PM - Starter (Wheeler North)
35. 07:55 PM - Re: Cylinder Blocker (Richard Sipp)
36. 08:15 PM - air-show is SW Florida (Jason Sneed)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RV 7 Tip-UP Canopy Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan" <jamespnolan@earthlink.net>
I've got to order the wing and fuselage for my RV-7 project and I need to
know if Van's has redesigned or fixed the problem with the Tip-UP canopy's
leaking water when it rained. I'd like to have a Tip-Up but if they still
require taping the front seam to keep rain out of the radios, I'll go with a
slider.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
Message 2
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| Subject: | Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
While helping a friend (previous friend?), I dropped a bucking bar inside the wing
near the leading edge, and left two noticeable dings. Surely this isn't
the first time this has happened.
Other than starting over with the new skin, do you have any suggestions for a fix?
Message 3
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| Subject: | Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
>
>While helping a friend (previous friend?), I dropped a bucking bar inside
>the wing near the leading edge, and left two noticeable dings. Surely
>this isn't the first time this has happened.
>
>Other than starting over with the new skin, do you have any suggestions for
>a fix?
Roger, you will certainly hear the dry ice solution but another one just
make the dents innies instead of outies and fill with Superfil:-) I think
we all have "dropped the.............bucking bar" one time or another.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Blocker |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
In a message dated 3/5/2004 8:24:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pat_hatch@msn.com writes:
> Kyle,
>
> I also had about a 40 degree difference between cylinders 1 &3 and fixed it
> with the blocker as you describe.
>
> Here is a picture for reference.
>
> http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=134196&ck
> You can start with speed tape or something similar until you get the right
> size, but the size shown will get you pretty close.
>
> Pat Hatch
>
Pat:
I have a fairly large difference in CHT too but didn't know it was something
that needed to be addressed ... what is the deal?
Thanks !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
218 hrs
Message 5
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| Subject: | RV-list and virus |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
Somebody out there has a virus that's driving me nuts! Well, some say I'm
already nuts. :-) You may want to check out your systems. It has to do
with a mail delivery. I've been getting them from folks on the list that I
never sent messages to. Thank goodness for my Norton software!
I just hope my messages are getting to those I've answered questions for off
line.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Tail almost complete. O320 parts in a pile)
EAA Tech Counselor
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Aero trainers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch@earthlink.net>
Austin,
I have found the shimmy is caused by the main wheels having a flat spot or
out of balance. The fact it only happens ever now a then is miss leading. It
will only get worse. Replace the mains and forget about it.
Bob
Repeat offender, about to fly number 5.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV-list and virus |
--> RV-List message posted by: Art Glaser <airplane@megsinet.net>
I must have gotten the virus 40 times last night. Norton catches them.
Art G
Jim Sears wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
>
>Somebody out there has a virus that's driving me nuts! Well, some say I'm
>already nuts. :-) You may want to check out your systems. It has to do
>with a mail delivery. I've been getting them from folks on the list that I
>never sent messages to. Thank goodness for my Norton software!
>
>I just hope my messages are getting to those I've answered questions for off
>line.
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
>RV-7A #70317 (Tail almost complete. O320 parts in a pile)
>EAA Tech Counselor
>do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Hi Austin,
We replaced our original mains with Dresser Recaps a couple of years ago.
Have put about 200 hrs (250 landings) on them and they look brand new.
Take Care,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
p.s. You going to S-N-F ?
>From: "Austin" <austin@uniserve.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "rv-list rv-list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Aero trainers
>Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 15:14:57 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <austin@uniserve.com>
>
>Listers,
> Once in a while, I would get a severe shimmy on rollout on
>my 6A, and I mean really bad, and I was sure it was the nose wheel at
>fault.
>Well, it was, the tire was hugely out of round and I replaced it and
>balanced it and got a few nice landings and then the dreaded " wet dog
>shake " on rollout a couple of times..
>I mean, this was a really bad shake and I could not stop it...
>A friend suggested the fault may be a main gear leg walking back and forth
>quickly since he had a similar problem which went away when he lowered
>pressure and got nice new tires..
>I am wondering what tires are a better choice to buy.....also, I am
>convinced too that less that stirling pilot skill is at play here too,
>since after I took a bit of air out to about 22 lbs., my landing was great
>and smoother because I held the stick back sooner and farther than ever.
>Shimmy was only present at low speed as when almost ready to turn off to
>the taxi way....this seems most common on 6As anyway and I think will never
>disappear completely..
>Also, I had a friend fly the a/c while I watched the landings with
>binoculars and found the nose gear behaves very nicely , but on one
>landing, the left main was wobbly as hell...go figure...
>The fact that the shimmy was not there each and every landing makes me
>wonder what and how to diagnose the fault...
>I do want to get new tires though..any suggestions ?
>Austin
>do not archive
>
>
Check out MSN PC Safety & Security to help ensure your PC is protected and
safe. http://specials.msn.com/msn/security.asp
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 38 Msgs - 03/23/04 |
--> RV-List message posted by: DPrestonsr@aol.com
Jason, our 8 has a Skytec light weight starter and a Concorde 25RG-XC battery
(22lbs).
These were installed by the builder about 2/02 and still starts fine at
temps in 30's. I think the suggestion to try another starter is a good move.
We are probably going to SYI Sat. Come join us.
Doug
RV8
N127EK
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Blocker |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Hey Len,
This seems to be a pattern in the RV's where the #3 cylinder runs much
hotter than #1 and somewhat hotter than 2 & 4. The blocker baffle in front
of cylinder #1 seems to even everything up. You have just so much cooling
air and I think the idea is to distribute it in the most efficient way--keep
CHT's even and in the 350 degree range in cruise and below 400 in the climb.
Beyond that, I think exit air area is the key, so if CHT's are still too
high, I would begin trimming some of the lower cowl ramp area to increase
exit air. Also, I believe you will get some success with smoothing out the
exit air flow by adding a rolling-pin shaped baffle on the lower firewall
area as many have done.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cylinder Blocker
> --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 3/5/2004 8:24:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> pat_hatch@msn.com writes:
>
> > Kyle,
> >
> > I also had about a 40 degree difference between cylinders 1 &3 and fixed
it
> > with the blocker as you describe.
> >
> > Here is a picture for reference.
> >
> > http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=134196&ck
> > You can start with speed tape or something similar until you get the
right
> > size, but the size shown will get you pretty close.
> >
> > Pat Hatch
> >
>
> Pat:
>
> I have a fairly large difference in CHT too but didn't know it was
something
> that needed to be addressed ... what is the deal?
>
> Thanks !!
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensboro, NC N910LL
> 218 hrs
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> Austin,
> I have found the shimmy is caused by the main wheels having a
> flat spot or out of balance. The fact it only happens ever
> now a then is miss leading. It will only get worse. Replace
> the mains and forget about it.
>
> Bob
> Repeat offender, about to fly number 5.
Not always so simple - I had about 400+ landings on my Van's cheapies
with no vibration/shimmy problems. I replaced them with Michelin tires
(on the mains), and have consistently had a fore-aft shimmy at 22 knots
ever since. It is a compromise between reduced air pressure, which
helps the problem, vs difficulty pushing the plane back into the hangar.
I don't sense that they are out of balance, because in that case, I
would expect a little vibration just after liftoff, which I don't have.
Every vibration is a spring, mass and damper. Change any one, and the
vibration behavior changes. The Michelin tires are noticably heavier
than the Van's ones were.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 446 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Aero trainers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch@earthlink.net>
Austin,
I forgot to mention the tension on the nose wheel, check and make sure it is
proper, it will loosen in time.
Bob
Message 13
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| Subject: | Navaid pushrod safety |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy -list!
Just installed my Navaid servo in the right wingtip similar to Bob Butler's
installation outlined on Sam Buchannan's website:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
and after eyeballin' them itty-bitty #6 screws on the rod ends, I'm a tad
nervous about what would happen if one of them were to let go- If either end of
the tube comes loose, you could be in for an interesting ride, to say the
least. Has anyone come up with a way to keep the pushrod from interfering with
the aileron linkage if it comes loose at that end, or with the servo or wingrib
if it gets disconnected at the other end? A couple of ideas include "hanging"
each end of the tube with some light extension springs to hold it up and away
from stuff if it does come adrift? Or maybe an upsize on the rod ends to #8
+ safety wires?
Yeah, so I'm paranoid- anyone else?
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips -6A 51PW & still grinnin'!
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Put the landing light in that bay.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
>
> While helping a friend (previous friend?), I dropped a bucking bar inside
the wing near the leading edge, and left two noticeable dings. Surely this
isn't the first time this has happened.
>
> Other than starting over with the new skin, do you have any suggestions
for a fix?
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Maybe not paranoid, That is exactly what we do in the Mustang on the gear
retraction pushrods, they have a pushrod with a rodend bearing that pushes
the gear up. If that rodend fails, which has happened, the pushrod can jamb
preventing the gear from freefalling to the down/locked position. To
preclude that we have a small spring on the pushrod that will pull the
pushrod up and away, allowing the gear to freefall.
FWIW.
Doug Rozendaal
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> Howdy -list!
>
> Just installed my Navaid servo in the right wingtip similar to Bob
Butler's
> installation outlined on Sam Buchannan's website:
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
> and after eyeballin' them itty-bitty #6 screws on the rod ends, I'm a tad
> nervous about what would happen if one of them were to let go- If either
end of
> the tube comes loose, you could be in for an interesting ride, to say the
> least. Has anyone come up with a way to keep the pushrod from interfering
with
> the aileron linkage if it comes loose at that end, or with the servo or
wingrib
> if it gets disconnected at the other end? A couple of ideas include
"hanging"
> each end of the tube with some light extension springs to hold it up and
away
> from stuff if it does come adrift? Or maybe an upsize on the rod ends to
#8
> + safety wires?
>
> Yeah, so I'm paranoid- anyone else?
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips -6A 51PW & still grinnin'!
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> Howdy -list!
>
> Just installed my Navaid servo in the right wingtip similar to Bob Butler's
> installation outlined on Sam Buchannan's website:
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
> and after eyeballin' them itty-bitty #6 screws on the rod ends, I'm a tad
> nervous about what would happen if one of them were to let go- If either end
of
> the tube comes loose, you could be in for an interesting ride, to say the
> least. Has anyone come up with a way to keep the pushrod from interfering with
> the aileron linkage if it comes loose at that end, or with the servo or wingrib
> if it gets disconnected at the other end? A couple of ideas include "hanging"
> each end of the tube with some light extension springs to hold it up and away
> from stuff if it does come adrift? Or maybe an upsize on the rod ends to #8
> + safety wires?
>
> Yeah, so I'm paranoid- anyone else?
>
>>From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips -6A 51PW & still grinnin'!
Grinnin' like a 'possum, eh?!
Yep, those screws do look very, very small. However, unless something
totally unanticipated or atypical happens, they are never under much
load. When the servo is powered down, the clutch has no drag. When the
servo is running, it is moving the ailerons a tiny amount. Biggest load
I can think of is if when we overpower the clutch by moving the stick
when the servo is energized. But even then the properly adjusted clutch
breaks loose with minimal effort.
Your idea about springs that would pull the pushrod up out of the way in
case a screw broke may have merit if you *really* want to eliminate all
possibility of jammed controls; the tricky part will be setting the
springs to be strong enough to raise the pushrod without adding loads to
the servo during normal ops. However,if a screw broke, more than likely
the pushrod would be under so much tension it would jam in spite of the
very light springs you are proposing.
As far as I know, broken pushrod screws have not been a problem with the
Navaid installation.
Sam Buchanan
Message 17
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| Subject: | Rubber Cable Grommets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
I'm trying to seal up a 1 3/16" hole that has a 1/4" cable going through the
center and am having trouble locating the right size rubber grommet (Wicks,
ACS, etc.). Seems like the ones that fit the large bulkhead hole size all
have larger holes for the cable also (1/2"). Has anyone had any luck making
their own rubber grommets by cutting/punching out the right cable size hole
in the middle? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm trying to seal
well and look good too.
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
RV-8 spaghetti everywhere
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Not that this happened to us ....BUT.......as Tom says "Put the landing
light in that bay" and start using a smaller bucking bar for those tight
places. We started with the large "hammer" looking type bar but was given a
much smaller one. Approx 2 X 2 and 1 1/2" thick with holes drilled in for
the differant size rivets and four poliched sides. It was made from a larger
bar and is small emough to fit between the cleco ends and a lot easier to
handle at arm lenght and out of sight. OK....OK.... "we" (read "me")
dropped the larger bar three times and were able to install the landing
lights and eliminate two of the three dings. Did I ever drop the smaller
bar, of course but because of its smaller size (read lighter weight) it
didn't "dent" anything. Do Not Archive KABONG GBA 8*)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
> Put the landing light in that bay.
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
> Harmon Rocket-II
>
> do not archive
> Subject: RV-List: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix
> > While helping a friend (previous friend?), I dropped a bucking bar
inside
> the wing near the leading edge, and left two noticeable dings. Surely
this
> isn't the first time this has happened.
> >
> > Other than starting over with the new skin, do you have any suggestions
> for a fix?
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
Sam: What I did was put a glob of RTV on the nut so it could not turn, and
un screw.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid pushrod safety
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
> >
> > Howdy -list!
> >
> > Just installed my Navaid servo in the right wingtip similar to Bob
Butler's
> > installation outlined on Sam Buchannan's website:
> > http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
> > and after eyeballin' them itty-bitty #6 screws on the rod ends, I'm a
tad
> > nervous about what would happen if one of them were to let go- If
either end of
> > the tube comes loose, you could be in for an interesting ride, to say
the
> > least. Has anyone come up with a way to keep the pushrod from
interfering with
> > the aileron linkage if it comes loose at that end, or with the servo or
wingrib
> > if it gets disconnected at the other end? A couple of ideas include
"hanging"
> > each end of the tube with some light extension springs to hold it up and
away
> > from stuff if it does come adrift? Or maybe an upsize on the rod ends
to #8
> > + safety wires?
> >
> > Yeah, so I'm paranoid- anyone else?
> >
> >>From The PossumWorks in TN
> > Mark Phillips -6A 51PW & still grinnin'!
>
>
> Grinnin' like a 'possum, eh?!
>
> Yep, those screws do look very, very small. However, unless something
> totally unanticipated or atypical happens, they are never under much
> load. When the servo is powered down, the clutch has no drag. When the
> servo is running, it is moving the ailerons a tiny amount. Biggest load
> I can think of is if when we overpower the clutch by moving the stick
> when the servo is energized. But even then the properly adjusted clutch
> breaks loose with minimal effort.
>
> Your idea about springs that would pull the pushrod up out of the way in
> case a screw broke may have merit if you *really* want to eliminate all
> possibility of jammed controls; the tricky part will be setting the
> springs to be strong enough to raise the pushrod without adding loads to
> the servo during normal ops. However,if a screw broke, more than likely
> the pushrod would be under so much tension it would jam in spite of the
> very light springs you are proposing.
>
> As far as I know, broken pushrod screws have not been a problem with the
> Navaid installation.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
>Put the landing light in that bay.
>Tom Gummo
>Apple Valley, CA
>Harmon Rocket-II
As long as it's not in the tank leading edge!
Landing checklist....boost pump on, flaps down, landing light
on....KABOOOOM!
heh.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
do not archive
Get reliable access on MSN 9 Dial-up. 3 months for the price of 1!
(Limited-time offer)
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | >Re; Rubber Cable Grommets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
How about a circle of aluminum and a hole in to fit the right size
grommet;then rivet the circle in place ?
Bob Olds -- RV-4 , N1191X
oldsfolks@aol.com
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: RV-list and virus |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Yes, this whole internet email thing is getting bad. I am getting "failed
to deliver" bounces
on e mails that have my address as the orignator but which I have never
sent. So having Norton's or other antivirus protection (which I have and
are great) or even a hardware firewall (as I have) won't protect you from
someone "Hijacking" your e mail address.
Your "Hijacked" e mail address is then used to send a virus to someone who
may not even be on your address list. In fact your computer is not involved
in this operation at all. Just the use of your e mail address. I have
recieved bounced messages indicating that I had sent a message to someone
who was not even in my address book. Apparently there is a portion fo the
message you can right mouse click on for "properties" and perhaps discouver
who the real send of the message is, but that's where it just starts to get
too hard for me. Like what do you do with that information? My IPS
provider adamantly tells us not to respond to a "remove me from your list"
link as all that does is confirm they have a valid e mail address - so what
to do??
So if you get a virus from you good old buddy, just realize it it likely not
from him at all. Fortunately, Matt's protective measures keep that type of
stuff off of these lists, but these bad guys can "harvest" e mails addresses
in many ways and from many sources. Hope they find a fix soon.
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-list and virus
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
>
> Somebody out there has a virus that's driving me nuts! Well, some say
I'm
> already nuts. :-) You may want to check out your systems. It has to do
> with a mail delivery. I've been getting them from folks on the list that
I
> never sent messages to. Thank goodness for my Norton software!
>
> I just hope my messages are getting to those I've answered questions for
off
> line.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
> RV-7A #70317 (Tail almost complete. O320 parts in a pile)
> EAA Tech Counselor
> do not archive
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Harvey Sigmon wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
>
> Sam: What I did was put a glob of RTV on the nut so it could not turn, and
> un screw.
> Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
Harvey, that is certainly not a bad idea. I think Mark is more concerned
about the little bolts actually breaking from extreme overload.
I am almost certain I have nyloc nuts on the bolts in my plane. This is
another example of where the bolts should be pulled down tight so there
is no rotation of the bolt itself or the ball part of the bearing. All
rotation should be the rod end around the ball bearing.
Sam Buchanan
=======================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid pushrod safety
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>>
>>Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>>>
>>>Howdy -list!
>>>
>>>Just installed my Navaid servo in the right wingtip similar to Bob
>
> Butler's
>
>>>installation outlined on Sam Buchannan's website:
>>>http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
>>>and after eyeballin' them itty-bitty #6 screws on the rod ends, I'm a
>
> tad
>
>>>nervous about what would happen if one of them were to let go- If
>
> either end of
>
>>>the tube comes loose, you could be in for an interesting ride, to say
>
> the
>
>>>least. Has anyone come up with a way to keep the pushrod from
>
> interfering with
>
>>>the aileron linkage if it comes loose at that end, or with the servo or
>
> wingrib
>
>>>if it gets disconnected at the other end? A couple of ideas include
>
> "hanging"
>
>>>each end of the tube with some light extension springs to hold it up and
>
> away
>
>>>from stuff if it does come adrift? Or maybe an upsize on the rod ends
>
> to #8
>
>>>+ safety wires?
>>>
>>>Yeah, so I'm paranoid- anyone else?
>>>
>>>>From The PossumWorks in TN
>>>Mark Phillips -6A 51PW & still grinnin'!
>>
>>
>>Grinnin' like a 'possum, eh?!
>>
>>Yep, those screws do look very, very small. However, unless something
>>totally unanticipated or atypical happens, they are never under much
>>load. When the servo is powered down, the clutch has no drag. When the
>>servo is running, it is moving the ailerons a tiny amount. Biggest load
>>I can think of is if when we overpower the clutch by moving the stick
>>when the servo is energized. But even then the properly adjusted clutch
>>breaks loose with minimal effort.
>>
>>Your idea about springs that would pull the pushrod up out of the way in
>>case a screw broke may have merit if you *really* want to eliminate all
>>possibility of jammed controls; the tricky part will be setting the
>>springs to be strong enough to raise the pushrod without adding loads to
>>the servo during normal ops. However,if a screw broke, more than likely
>>the pushrod would be under so much tension it would jam in spite of the
>>very light springs you are proposing.
>>
>>As far as I know, broken pushrod screws have not been a problem with the
>>Navaid installation.
>>
>>Sam Buchanan
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 3/24/04 3:28:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
revenson@comcast.net writes:
<< While helping a friend (previous friend?), I dropped a bucking bar inside
the wing near the leading edge, and left two noticeable dings. Surely this
isn't the first time this has happened.
Other than starting over with the new skin, do you have any suggestions for
a fix?
>>
Well, if it's any consolation, you aren't the first to commit this sin. I
did exactly the same thing while bucking wing rivets for Pete Bodie (and he
still talks to me). Pete drilled the ding, did a little careful bumping and
dimpling and put in a small pop rivet. With a little filling at paint time he
figures it will never show (whew!).
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/24/2004 6:12:22 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Fiveonepw@aol.com writes:
Just installed my Navaid servo in the right wingtip similar to Bob Butler's
installation outlined on Sam Buchannan's website:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
and after eyeballin' them itty-bitty #6 screws on the rod ends, I'm a tad
nervous about what would happen if one of them were to let go- If either end
of
the tube comes loose, you could be in for an interesting ride, to say the
least. Has anyone come up with a way to keep the pushrod from interfering
with
the aileron linkage if it comes loose at that end, or with the servo or
wingrib
if it gets disconnected at the other end? A couple of ideas include
"hanging"
each end of the tube with some light extension springs to hold it up and away
from stuff if it does come adrift? Or maybe an upsize on the rod ends to #8
+ safety wires?
Yeah, so I'm paranoid- anyone else?
=================================
Mark-
I too was concerned with the small diameter of these 6-32 fasteners, but
ended up leaving them as is because I didn't want to increase the diameter of the
pushrod in that tight area. Just make sure that you have no binding
whatsoever at the full travel limits or else you could be contributing to cyclic
loading fatigue of these fasteners. There has been no problem in 685 hrs.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 685 hrs)
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 09:45 AM 3/23/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
>< snipped piston part nums etc>There is an increase in the weight of these
>pistons though.
Does the added weight and power produced call for stronger rods?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 27
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| Subject: | Navaid Servo Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Hello Fellow Listers,
While we're on the subject of Autopilot Servos: I think that my installation
came out great. I don't have a website or any pictures of it, but while I
was building the right wing I fitted the servo into the bellcrank bay. My
pushrod is only about 4.125 inches long. I installed aluminum doublers and
nutplates on the forward side of the spar web. The doublers are to keep me from
worrying about the web cracking. There is room to get to the servo to adjust it
fairly easily, and it can be removed using an allen wrench. I had to cut off
two of the mounting ears and mount a plate across the bottom of the servo to
get it as far as possible from the bellcrank. A longer piece of aluminum tubing
was found and threaded for the 6-32 rod ends.
The linkage angles were calculated to give equal left and right travel of the
pushrod to the control sticks for equal servo travels from center. I only
had to drill a single hole through the lower side of the bellcrank to put a 5-40
screw for the pushrod pivot.
Maybe when I get time I can get some pictures.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
Message 28
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vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I just added the new Garmin 296 to the ePanel Builder!
www.epanelbuilder.com
More info: http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsmap296/
-Bill
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 3/24/04 9:41:03 AM Central Standard Time, sbuc@hiwaay.net
writes:
> As far as I know, broken pushrod screws have not been a problem with the
> Navaid installation.
That's good news- perhaps I'm being too concerned about the extra weight of
50" of 5/8" tubing where the original design had that one little tube... My
completed pushrod wound up weighing about 9 ounces. By the way Sam- I'm getting
ready for pants- still recommend the Rocket stuff?
Mark
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Tip-UP Canopy Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
I haven't flown in the rain but when I wash the airplane I don't get any
water inside.
Cash Copeland
RV-6 Tip UP
In a message dated 3/24/2004 2:52:28 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jamespnolan@earthlink.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan" <jamespnolan@earthlink.net>
I've got to order the wing and fuselage for my RV-7 project and I need to
know if Van's has redesigned or fixed the problem with the Tip-UP canopy's
leaking water when it rained. I'd like to have a Tip-Up but if they still
require taping the front seam to keep rain out of the radios, I'll go with a
slider.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 3/24/04 9:41:03 AM Central Standard Time, sbuc@hiwaay.net
> writes:
>
>
>>As far as I know, broken pushrod screws have not been a problem with the
>>Navaid installation.
>
>
> That's good news- perhaps I'm being too concerned about the extra weight of
> 50" of 5/8" tubing where the original design had that one little tube... My
> completed pushrod wound up weighing about 9 ounces. By the way Sam- I'm getting
> ready for pants- still recommend the Rocket stuff?
>
> Mark
Mark, there are now other venders beside Rocket, but the Team Rocket
fairings have held up well on my RV-6.
Sam Buchanan
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: Garry Legare <versadek@earthlink.net>
Which reminds me, I've a 196 that I got about 4 months ago used it about
4 times, also have a King skymap111 that I just like better. So the 196
is for sale First $ 750. takes it. Please contact me off list.
Casper
Bill VonDane wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
>I just added the new Garmin 296 to the ePanel Builder!
>
>www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>More info: http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsmap296/
>
>-Bill
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Navaid pushrod safety |
--> RV-List message posted by: JVanLaak@aol.com
I was also uncomfortable with the installation, particularly the wimpy
control arm. I ended up upgrading the rod ends using some old pushrods I had around
and went to AN-3 bolts with locknuts. I had to fab a new control arm for the
servo, which took about 30 minutes, but now I am certain that there will be
no structural failure and no fouling. Just watch the clearances.
Jim Van Laak
RV-6 N79RL
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Jason,
Although this is not universal, high current Voltage drop problems that
change with temperature are often due to carbon in a poor connection. The
connection changes as the temp changes. First thing would be to check the
contactors and the various connections.
Have a helper and do voltage drop checks at every connection and contactor.
A V-drop check is done best with a DVOM in V mode and just leap frog the
leads from point to point starting at Bat + and ending at bat -, cranking at
each check with the mags disabled/plug leads disconnected, but leave the
plugs in for cranking load. (be careful here, but if you have some good
quality long test leads its very doable, and the best way to diagnose the
problem) Anything other than the starter having more than .1 V-drop is a
problem although some cables are long enough and small enough to get up to
.5V drop.
My bat/mastersol/startersol/starter/eng gnd/bat gnd loop is 00 cable and is
less than 4ft total loop length. This weighs less than 2 lbs The trick to
using large cable is to keep it short.
If there is not significant V-drop, and the battery is good, then your
starter is the culprit, probably carbon in the commutator and or weak
brushes.
W
Time: 08:07:55 AM PST US
From: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: starter problem?
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
I need some help to diagnose a problem I am having. When my airplane
was built the builder did not think the battery had enough power for
the airplane because it did not spin the prop very fast for startup
although it usually would spin it enough for startup. The builder
installed a motorcycle battery in the luggage compartment for extra
power.
During the winter I had a time or two when the the starter or battery
just barley turned the prop and I had to jump the plane in one
occasion. I noticed the battery in the plane was old and I thought a
new one would fix the issue. I order a new odyssey battery and that
seemed to fix the problem. After about 30 hours of flying with the new
battery I decided to remove the 10 pound motorcycle battery from the
luggage compartment thinking I did not need it anymore. I flew another
5 hours (warm weather 70's) with no problem. two nights ago the low was
40 degrees down here in NW florida, yesterday it was about 55 when I
went flying, sure enough the starter/battery just barley turned the
prop enough for the engine to start. nothing drains the battery when
the master is off (no clock ect...) and the voltage on the battery is
12.8-12.9. With the alt on it shows about 14.4 volts. Does anyone have
any idea what my problem is? I only have trouble on the first start of
the day (my guess is that once the oil heats up it is MUCH easier to
start the engine.) Could I have a weak/bad starter (it is a lightweight
starter)? any ideas or things to check would be great.
Thanks,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Blocker |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
In addition to Pat's thoughts I would add that the gap at the bottom of
cylinder head and barrel wrap baffles makes a significant difference in the
individual cylinder head temperatures. Kent Paser's book "Speed with
Economy went into this in depth.
I would advise caution in closing up the barrel porting of the baffle too
much since this area is not normally instrumented and I would have no idea
what the minimum dimension would be before high barrel temps might become a
problem.
Dick Sipp
RV4
RV10
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cylinder Blocker
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
>
> Hey Len,
>
> This seems to be a pattern in the RV's where the #3 cylinder runs much
> hotter than #1 and somewhat hotter than 2 & 4. The blocker baffle in
front
> of cylinder #1 seems to even everything up. You have just so much cooling
> air and I think the idea is to distribute it in the most efficient
way--keep
> CHT's even and in the 350 degree range in cruise and below 400 in the
climb.
> Beyond that, I think exit air area is the key, so if CHT's are still too
> high, I would begin trimming some of the lower cowl ramp area to increase
> exit air. Also, I believe you will get some success with smoothing out
the
> exit air flow by adding a rolling-pin shaped baffle on the lower firewall
> area as many have done.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4
> RV-6
> RV-7 QB (Building)
> Vero Beach, FL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cylinder Blocker
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
> >
> > In a message dated 3/5/2004 8:24:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > pat_hatch@msn.com writes:
> >
> > > Kyle,
> > >
> > > I also had about a 40 degree difference between cylinders 1 &3 and
fixed
> it
> > > with the blocker as you describe.
> > >
> > > Here is a picture for reference.
> > >
> > > http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=134196&ck
> > > You can start with speed tape or something similar until you get the
> right
> > > size, but the size shown will get you pretty close.
> > >
> > > Pat Hatch
> > >
> >
> > Pat:
> >
> > I have a fairly large difference in CHT too but didn't know it was
> something
> > that needed to be addressed ... what is the deal?
> >
> > Thanks !!
> >
> > Len Leggette, RV-8A
> > Greensboro, NC N910LL
> > 218 hrs
> >
> >
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | air-show is SW Florida |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
If anyone is looking for a fun place to fly this weekend here is a good
air-show and you can fly to the airport. I plan on going Sat.
http://www.cwi-fl.org/intro.html
Jason Sneed
www.highland-parks.com/n242ds
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