Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:20 AM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (RVEIGHTA@aol.com)
2. 05:13 AM - capacitive fuel senders (RV4)
3. 06:21 AM - RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (john henley)
4. 06:37 AM - Re: hidden pitot tube (Gould, Richard AE1 NAVTESTWINGPAC 561000E)
5. 06:42 AM - Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (Jerry Springer)
6. 07:06 AM - Re: Rv-List Skidding (Alex Peterson)
7. 07:22 AM - Re: Landing lights ()
8. 07:35 AM - Re: RV-6/6A canopy headroom and headsets (Alex Peterson)
9. 07:39 AM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (Alex Peterson)
10. 07:43 AM - Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (Stein Bruch)
11. 07:48 AM - Used engine vibration mounts (RV8ter@aol.com)
12. 07:49 AM - Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (RV8ter@aol.com)
13. 08:08 AM - Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (Greg Young)
14. 08:27 AM - Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (Stein Bruch)
15. 08:41 AM - Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (Cy Galley)
16. 08:54 AM - Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (Alex Peterson)
17. 08:54 AM - Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (Dan Checkoway)
18. 09:02 AM - Re: Used engine vibration mounts (Curt Reimer)
19. 09:36 AM - New RV7?!?! (Stein Bruch)
20. 09:46 AM - Re: RV-6/6A canopy headroom and headsets (Gary Zilik)
21. 09:57 AM - Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (Gary Zilik)
22. 10:29 AM - fuel tank rotation bracket ()
23. 10:44 AM - Re: New RV7?!?! (Dan Checkoway)
24. 10:45 AM - Re: RV-6/6A canopy headroom and headsets (Sam Buchanan)
25. 11:21 AM - Re: New RV7?!?! (Charles Rowbotham)
26. 11:30 AM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (RVEIGHTA@aol.com)
27. 11:30 AM - Re: New RV7?!?! (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
28. 11:48 AM - Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (john henley)
29. 11:51 AM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (Alex Peterson)
30. 12:27 PM - RV-7 Props (Brian Walsh)
31. 01:45 PM - Re: RV-7 Props (Gary Zilik)
32. 02:21 PM - Re: Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (Dan Checkoway)
33. 02:35 PM - Re: hidden pitot tube (Jim Oke)
34. 02:47 PM - Re: hidden pitot tube (Jim Oke)
35. 03:06 PM - Re: capacitive fuel senders (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG))
36. 03:22 PM - Re: Re: New RV7?!?! ()
37. 03:27 PM - Re: RV-7 Props ()
38. 04:40 PM - IO-540 fuel pump ??? (Tom Gummo)
39. 05:05 PM - Canopy room and headsets. (Rob W M Shipley)
40. 06:43 PM - hidden pitot tube - F-86 Intake Pitot Tube (Vinnfizz@aol.com)
41. 06:43 PM - Re: Canopy room and headsets. (Karie Daniel)
42. 06:56 PM - Flush mounted pitot (JVanLaak@aol.com)
43. 07:28 PM - Re: New RV7?!?! (Darwin N. Barrie)
44. 07:35 PM - Re: RV-7 Props (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
45. 07:57 PM - Re: New RV7?!?! (Jerry Springer)
46. 07:59 PM - Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (Eustace Bowhay)
47. 09:21 PM - Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (Jim Cimino)
48. 09:43 PM - Re: hidden pitot tube - F-86 Intake Pitot Tube (Jim Oke)
49. 10:11 PM - scratching the canopy (thomas a. sargent)
50. 11:11 PM - Re: IO-540 fuel pump ??? (linn walters)
51. 11:17 PM - Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix (Jim and Bev Cone)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
OAT was around 75 F. Stein may be right, I'll try using the boost pump to see
if that improves engine run at low rpm.
Walt Shipley
P.S. Thanks guys for all the input, maybe I can get this puppy runnin' right
Message 2
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| Subject: | capacitive fuel senders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ@btinternet.com>
Hi,
I have capacitive fuel senders for my RV7, indicators from Pacific, need converter
from capacitive to voltage.
Has anyone got similar indicators? where did you get the converters?
thanks
Marcel
RV7 #71481
Message 3
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| Subject: | RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
Listners (and Vans),
I had an interesting experience last week with my RV7. I have the IO306 200
HP engine installed with the induction air intake mounted on the inlet ramp
of the baffle. I parked the plane outside for three nights and it was exposed
to approx 3 inches of rainfall during that time. When I went to start the engine,
it rotated about two blades and then stopped. I got out and tried to pull
the prop through but it would not pull through. Hum--whats going on here?
I removed the cowling and the bottom plugs and was shocked to have water
come out of the two rear cylinders. I removed the plug on the bottom of the sump,
lifted the tail and drained about a quart if water out of the induction sump.
While I had the plugs out, I engaged the starter to force any remaining water
out of the cylinders. Luckily, the starter was not damaged and upon reinstalling
the plugs, the engine started and ran fine.
I had never thought about water entering the induction system before but
you can bet I will have a cover over the air filter as well as inlet plugs on
my plane before I park it outside again. Hope this saves someone some grief in
the future. Vans, you might want to put a short blurb in the RV ator about this.
On the bright side, I found that I have very tight sealing fuel filler caps
as I had no water in the tanks.
John Henley, N57LD, 210 Hrs
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: hidden pitot tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gould, Richard AE1 NAVTESTWINGPAC 561000E" <richard.j.gould@navy.mil>
I would be surprised (and honestly, very curious) to see an aircraft that had a
Pitot static probe mounted flush in the LE of the wing. I wonder how it would
overcome the airflow separation at the LE. I would find it hard to believe that
a P-S system could accurately measure true impact pressure without any type
of correction.
> According to theory, any local increase in the velocity of
> the air (due to the shape of the wing, for instance) will cause a
> equivalent decrease in local static pressure so the total (static plus
> dynamic) pressure will remain unchanged.
Every small SEL GA airplane that I have seen does not have compound Pitot-Static
probe, so the equivalent static pressure would not be sensed. Every airplane
that I have worked on from Cessna's to 4-Engine Turboprops to Super Hornets has
a pitot probe that juts into the airstream. If a flush mount worked WELL, I
think it would have caught on by now.
> Look at an F-86 sometime, the pitot
> tube is buried inside the engine intake duct and works fine (some models
Are you sure that it is a pitot tube for the INSTRUMENT system? How far down the
intake is it? If it were anywhere past the front edge, the air data that it
is sensing would completely off. Think about it. It would be reading an airspeed
indication while sitting on the ramp at idle! Yes turbine engines often have
pitot tubes in them, but they're not for the P-S system. They are for the engine
fuel control. Even the Engine-Driven Compressor (EDC) for cabin pressurization
on the L-188/P-3 has its own Pitot-Static probes inside its own intake.
Rick Gould
RV-4 Camarillo, CA
FLY NAVY!
__I__
--O--O--( )--O--O--
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
john henley wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
>
>Listners (and Vans),
>
> I had an interesting experience last week with my RV7. I have the IO306
200 HP engine installed with the induction air intake mounted on the inlet ramp
of the baffle. I parked the plane outside for three nights and it was exposed
to approx 3 inches of rainfall during that time. When I went to start the engine,
it rotated about two blades and then stopped. I got out and tried to pull
the prop through but it would not pull through. Hum--whats going on here?
>
> I removed the cowling and the bottom plugs and was shocked to have water
come out of the two rear cylinders. I removed the plug on the bottom of the
sump, lifted the tail and drained about a quart if water out of the induction
sump. While I had the plugs out, I engaged the starter to force any remaining
water out of the cylinders. Luckily, the starter was not damaged and upon reinstalling
the plugs, the engine started and ran fine.
>
> I had never thought about water entering the induction system before but
you can bet I will have a cover over the air filter as well as inlet plugs on
my plane before I park it outside again. Hope this saves someone some grief
in the future. Vans, you might want to put a short blurb in the RV ator about
this.
>
> On the bright side, I found that I have very tight sealing fuel filler
caps as I had no water in the tanks.
>
>John Henley, N57LD, 210 Hrs
>
>
>
>
>
Do you have a hole in the bottom of your filter box to drain water and
fuel that can accumulate?
Jerry
Message 6
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| Subject: | Rv-List Skidding |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
One more thought on the ball being off center - if the plane is not
flying true through the air, there will be some amount of aerodynamic
load acting on the side of the fuselage. This load is not countered by
an equal load on the other side of the fuselage; hence, there will be a
lateral acceleration (this causes the ball to move toward that side).
This acceleration can be "countered" by the aircraft turning in a flat
roll attitude (as a car around a corner), or by lowering the wing on the
side of the air load to prevent the turn. Either way, the ball will
move towards the air load.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 447 hours Terrible flying weather!!
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Landing lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: <benandginny@insightbb.com>
Deb and Bernie,
Check out www.creativair.com I am very happy with my installation. Also
www.killacycle.com
Ben Cunningham
RV7 Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deb and Bernard Weiss" <weissmntc@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Landing lights
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Deb and Bernard Weiss"
<weissmntc@earthlink.net>
>
> I am interested in options for landing lights that will fit inside the new
tips that Van's is selling with the RV-7. Also to be included in the lens
will be the strobes.
>
>
> DebBernie Weiss
> weissmntc@earthlink.net
> Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | RV-6/6A canopy headroom and headsets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> I've had my seat belt and shoulder harness as tight as
> possible and hit
> bumps in my slider 6a and wondered why the canopy did not
> break. A word
> to the wise; remove the button from the top of your ball cap, it will
> save your scull.
>
I can't imagine flying without a 5 point harness, if only for very
reason stated above. I suspect that anyone who has flown in a 6/7/9
(can't speak for the seat belt geometry in the others) with a 5 point in
turbulence will be a believer. I wouldn't even contemplate not having
the 5th point, as it is so much more comfortable, not to mention safer.
I suspect that it must be the equivalent of getting several inches more
headroom.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 447 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 9
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| Subject: | IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> OAT was around 75 F. Stein may be right, I'll try using the
> boost pump to see
> if that improves engine run at low rpm.
>
> Walt Shipley
The fuel pressure in the injector lines is extremely low at idle, well
below the engine driven fuel pump pressure. If the boost pump fixes the
problem, the vapor problem is in the suction side of things (pre -
engine fuel pump), not in the injector lines.
Sorry if I missed it, what injection system do you have?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 447 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
It's fairly common practice to drill a small "drain hole" somewhere near the
low point in the induction, to those who haven't yet, you should...for this
reason and a couple others.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of john henley
Subject: RV-List: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem
--> RV-List message posted by: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
Listners (and Vans),
I had an interesting experience last week with my RV7. I have the
IO306 200 HP engine installed with the induction air intake mounted on the
inlet ramp of the baffle. I parked the plane outside for three nights and it
was exposed to approx 3 inches of rainfall during that time. When I went to
start the engine, it rotated about two blades and then stopped. I got out
and tried to pull the prop through but it would not pull through. Hum--whats
going on here?
I removed the cowling and the bottom plugs and was shocked to have
water come out of the two rear cylinders. I removed the plug on the bottom
of the sump, lifted the tail and drained about a quart if water out of the
induction sump. While I had the plugs out, I engaged the starter to force
any remaining water out of the cylinders. Luckily, the starter was not
damaged and upon reinstalling the plugs, the engine started and ran fine.
I had never thought about water entering the induction system before
but you can bet I will have a cover over the air filter as well as inlet
plugs on my plane before I park it outside again. Hope this saves someone
some grief in the future. Vans, you might want to put a short blurb in the
RV ator about this.
On the bright side, I found that I have very tight sealing fuel
filler caps as I had no water in the tanks.
John Henley, N57LD, 210 Hrs
Message 11
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| Subject: | Used engine vibration mounts |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
A local Mooney owner is installing a new engine and he received 4 new
vibration mounts with his STC engine kit so he has his current ones for sale and
said
to make him an offer if interested. The *old* ones have 670 hours on them
since new in 97.
There's no obvious damage or marks on them and he says there wasn't any
noticeable sag and that he'd probably still use them if he didn't end up getting
new ones. Is there a compression limit I can measure when I torque a bolt &
nut on them to test there usefullness?
How darn long do these things usually last anyway?
thanks,
lucky
From: RV8ter@aol.com
Subject: used engine vibration mounts
-------------------------------1080402059
Local Mooney owner installing a new engine and he received 4 new vibration
mounts with his STC engine kit so he has his current ones for sale and said to
make him an offer if interested. The *old* ones have 670 hours on them since
new in 97.
There's no obvious damage or marks on them and he says there wasn't any
noticeable sag and that he'd probably still use them if he didn't end up getting
new ones. Is there a compression limit I can measure when I torque a bolt &
nut on them to test there usefullness?
How darn long do these things usually last anyway?
thanks,
lucky
-------------------------------1080402059
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2737.800" nameGENERATOR>
Local Mooney owner installing a new engine and he received 4 new vibration mounts
with his STC engine kit so he has his current ones for sale and said to make
him an offer if interested. The *old* oneshave 670 hours on them since new in
97.
There's no obvious damage or marks on them andhe says there wasn't any noticeable
sag and that he'd probablystill use them if he didn't end up getting new ones.
Is there acompression limit I can measurewhen Itorque a bolt nuton them to
test there usefullness?
How darn long do these things usually last anyway?
thanks,
lucky
-------------------------------1080402059--
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Stein,
What are the other reasons?
n a message dated 3/28/2004 10:44:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
stein@steinair.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
It's fairly common practice to drill a small "drain hole" somewhere near the
low point in the induction, to those who haven't yet, you should...for this
reason and a couple others.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
Message 13
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| Subject: | RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
That's great for the updraft installations, but on the horizontal induction
with the snorkel the induction manifold in the sump is pretty much the low
point... Particularly for taildraggers. Covers are a prudent choice.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> It's fairly common practice to drill a small "drain hole"
> somewhere near the low point in the induction, to those who
> haven't yet, you should...for this reason and a couple others.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis
>
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
>
> Listners (and Vans),
>
> I had an interesting experience last week with my RV7.
> I have the IO306 200 HP engine installed with the induction
> air intake mounted on the inlet ramp of the baffle. I parked
> the plane outside for three nights and it was exposed to
> approx 3 inches of rainfall during that time. When I went to
> start the engine, it rotated about two blades and then
> stopped. I got out and tried to pull the prop through but it
> would not pull through. Hum--whats going on here?
>
> I removed the cowling and the bottom plugs and was
> shocked to have water come out of the two rear cylinders. I
> removed the plug on the bottom of the sump, lifted the tail
> and drained about a quart if water out of the induction sump.
> While I had the plugs out, I engaged the starter to force any
> remaining water out of the cylinders. Luckily, the starter
> was not damaged and upon reinstalling the plugs, the engine
> started and ran fine.
>
> I had never thought about water entering the induction
> system before but you can bet I will have a cover over the
> air filter as well as inlet plugs on my plane before I park
> it outside again. Hope this saves someone some grief in the
> future. Vans, you might want to put a short blurb in the RV
> ator about this.
>
> On the bright side, I found that I have very tight
> sealing fuel filler caps as I had no water in the tanks.
>
> John Henley, N57LD, 210 Hrs
Message 14
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| Subject: | RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Well....I specifically left this one out because I'll bet it raises more
questins than it answers, but here goes.
The main reason for the drain hole is for fuel. Fuel from overpriming,
flooding, etc..
This hole or something similar to it is very common on most certified
aircraft. Mooney went as far as putting an actual drain hose from the
induction system out of the cowl, but I don't think that's needed.
That's the main one I know of, draining water is a bonus.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV8ter@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Stein,
What are the other reasons?
n a message dated 3/28/2004 10:44:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
stein@steinair.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
It's fairly common practice to drill a small "drain hole" somewhere near the
low point in the induction, to those who haven't yet, you should...for this
reason and a couple others.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
We had a very similar incident at Oshkosh one year where the induction box
filled with water because the wasn't a low point drain.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or sportpilot@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> It's fairly common practice to drill a small "drain hole" somewhere near
the
> low point in the induction, to those who haven't yet, you should...for
this
> reason and a couple others.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of john henley
> To: RV-List@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
>
> Listners (and Vans),
>
> I had an interesting experience last week with my RV7. I have the
> IO306 200 HP engine installed with the induction air intake mounted on the
> inlet ramp of the baffle. I parked the plane outside for three nights and
it
> was exposed to approx 3 inches of rainfall during that time. When I went
to
> start the engine, it rotated about two blades and then stopped. I got out
> and tried to pull the prop through but it would not pull through.
Hum--whats
> going on here?
>
> I removed the cowling and the bottom plugs and was shocked to have
> water come out of the two rear cylinders. I removed the plug on the bottom
> of the sump, lifted the tail and drained about a quart if water out of the
> induction sump. While I had the plugs out, I engaged the starter to force
> any remaining water out of the cylinders. Luckily, the starter was not
> damaged and upon reinstalling the plugs, the engine started and ran fine.
>
> I had never thought about water entering the induction system
before
> but you can bet I will have a cover over the air filter as well as inlet
> plugs on my plane before I park it outside again. Hope this saves someone
> some grief in the future. Vans, you might want to put a short blurb in the
> RV ator about this.
>
> On the bright side, I found that I have very tight sealing fuel
> filler caps as I had no water in the tanks.
>
> John Henley, N57LD, 210 Hrs
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> Well....I specifically left this one out because I'll bet it
> raises more questins than it answers, but here goes.
>
> The main reason for the drain hole is for fuel. Fuel from
> overpriming, flooding, etc.. This hole or something similar
> to it is very common on most certified aircraft. Mooney went
> as far as putting an actual drain hose from the induction
> system out of the cowl, but I don't think that's needed.
>
> That's the main one I know of, draining water is a bonus.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein.
To add a little to what Stein said, two holes are needed in the bottom
of the FAB, one outside the filter and one just inside, at the lowest
point. The small hole inside the filter is to let fuel out, the
outboard one to drain water which gets in.
A drain hose is a good idea on trike planes, otherwise the prime fuel
slops all over the gear and wheel fairings. Prosealing some sort of
fitting on the outside of the FAB onto which a hose can be clamped has
worked for me.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 447 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> This hole or something similar to it is very common on most certified
> aircraft. Mooney went as far as putting an actual drain hose from the
> induction system out of the cowl, but I don't think that's needed.
For the IO-360 with horizontal induction, Van's FWF kit drawings do call out
the use of a sniffle valve -- with a drain tube running out the back of the
cowl.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Used engine vibration mounts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca>
If you can get a good deal on them, I'd use them. They are usually
recommended to be changed at engine overhaul time, so every 2000 hours.
Yours have 2/3 of their life left on them, and they are relatively fresh
time-wise so why not? (If they had 670 hours but were 20 years old, I'd
probably replace them due to age.)
Curt
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Used engine vibration mounts
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> A local Mooney owner is installing a new engine and he received 4 new
> vibration mounts with his STC engine kit so he has his current ones for
sale and said
> to make him an offer if interested. The *old* ones have 670 hours on them
> since new in 97.
>
> There's no obvious damage or marks on them and he says there wasn't any
> noticeable sag and that he'd probably still use them if he didn't end up
getting
> new ones. Is there a compression limit I can measure when I torque a
bolt &
> nut on them to test there usefullness?
>
> How darn long do these things usually last anyway?
>
> thanks,
> lucky
>
> From: RV8ter@aol.com
> Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 10:40:59 EST
> Subject: used engine vibration mounts
> To: vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> -------------------------------1080402059
>
> Local Mooney owner installing a new engine and he received 4 new vibration
> mounts with his STC engine kit so he has his current ones for sale and
said to
> make him an offer if interested. The *old* ones have 670 hours on them
since
> new in 97.
>
> There's no obvious damage or marks on them and he says there wasn't any
> noticeable sag and that he'd probably still use them if he didn't end up
getting
> new ones. Is there a compression limit I can measure when I torque a
bolt &
> nut on them to test there usefullness?
>
> How darn long do these things usually last anyway?
>
> thanks,
> lucky
>
> -------------------------------1080402059
>
>
> <META content"MSHTML 6.00.2737.800" nameGENERATOR>
>
> Local Mooney owner installing a new engine and he received 4 new vibration
mounts with his STC engine kit so he has his current ones for sale and said
to make him an offer if interested. The *old* oneshave 670 hours on them
since new in 97.
>
> There's no obvious damage or marks on them andhe says there wasn't any
noticeable sag and that he'd probablystill use them if he didn't end up
getting new ones. Is there acompression limit I can measurewhen Itorque a
bolt nuton them to test there usefullness?
>
> How darn long do these things usually last anyway?
>
> thanks,
> lucky
>
> -------------------------------1080402059--
>
>
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Mr. Dan Checkoway....
Are the rumors correct?!?! Is there another RV7 in the air??
DO TELL!
Do Not Archive
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A canopy headroom and headsets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
I fly with Peltor's. Thin headband, great ANR and comfortable.
Z
Bobby Hester wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
>Gary Zilik wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
>>
>>I've had my seat belt and shoulder harness as tight as possible and hit
>>bumps in my slider 6a and wondered why the canopy did not break. A word
>>to the wise; remove the button from the top of your ball cap, it will
>>save your scull.
>>
>>Z
>>
>>
>>
>>
>I'm surprised that no one has metioned Peltor. They have a very thin
>head band and seem to be a very good quality headset.
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
On our first trip to the Bahamas the rains came down horizontal for a
number of hours. The next day we were going island hopping and when I
started my engine, it started but shook like a wet dog as it was firing
on 1 or 2 cylinders. The problem was that I had forgot to put the drain
holes in the FAB (carburated 6A) and the air box had filled with water.
I used an ice pick from the local establishment to poke two holes in the
FAB to drain the water. IMHO, the holes are and important addition for
draining both water fuel.
Jerry Springer wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
>john henley wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
>>
>>Listners (and Vans),
>>
>> I had an interesting experience last week with my RV7. I have the IO306
200 HP engine installed with the induction air intake mounted on the inlet ramp
of the baffle. I parked the plane outside for three nights and it was exposed
to approx 3 inches of rainfall during that time. When I went to start the engine,
it rotated about two blades and then stopped. I got out and tried to pull
the prop through but it would not pull through. Hum--whats going on here?
>>
>> I removed the cowling and the bottom plugs and was shocked to have water
come out of the two rear cylinders. I removed the plug on the bottom of the
sump, lifted the tail and drained about a quart if water out of the induction
sump. While I had the plugs out, I engaged the starter to force any remaining
water out of the cylinders. Luckily, the starter was not damaged and upon reinstalling
the plugs, the engine started and ran fine.
>>
>> I had never thought about water entering the induction system before but
you can bet I will have a cover over the air filter as well as inlet plugs on
my plane before I park it outside again. Hope this saves someone some grief
in the future. Vans, you might want to put a short blurb in the RV ator about
this.
>>
>> On the bright side, I found that I have very tight sealing fuel filler
caps as I had no water in the tanks.
>>
>>John Henley, N57LD, 210 Hrs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>Do you have a hole in the bottom of your filter box to drain water and
>fuel that can accumulate?
>
>Jerry
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | fuel tank rotation bracket |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
List,
After a tremendously frustrating afternoon of getting proseal everywhere, I have
a couple of questions:
1) I made the rotation bracket, but it seems the center of the hole for the elbow
fitting did not align (extend) far enough. I checked my dims and they all
looked to be okay, so I had to drill it out to 5/8. Is that normal? It seems
that should be okay.
2) It states to use -4 rivets. Is that just to alleviate the use of c-sunk rivets?
Since edge distance is limited, it seems it would be better to c-sink the
bracket and use -3 rivets.
3) Assuming one were to completely mangle a piece of the 1x1 angle in his frustration
(wiht proseal everywhere), any reason why home depot replacement angle
wouldn't work? Is there something special about the angle vans' sends?
Thanks in advance,
Scott
7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
The rumors are true...story here: http://www.rvproject.com
Builders...all I can say is: FINISH THAT PROJECT!!!!! 8-)
do not archive
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RV-List: New RV7?!?!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> Mr. Dan Checkoway....
>
> Are the rumors correct?!?! Is there another RV7 in the air??
>
> DO TELL!
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A canopy headroom and headsets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Jerry Springer wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Bobby Hester wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>>
>>Gary Zilik wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
>>>
>>>I've had my seat belt and shoulder harness as tight as possible and hit
>>>bumps in my slider 6a and wondered why the canopy did not break. A word
>>>to the wise; remove the button from the top of your ball cap, it will
>>>save your scull.
>>>
>>>Z
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>I'm surprised that no one has metioned Peltor. They have a very thin
>>head band and seem to be a very good quality headset.
>>
>>
>>
>
> At 6'3" using Peltors I have no problem with head room. Yes I am close
> to the canopy but not a problem IMO.
> Make adjustments with your seat cushions. As someone else mentioned take
> the seatback adjustment off and let the
> seat back rest against the rail. IMO Peltors are the best non noise
> canceling headsets
>
> Jerry
I can personally endorse the Lightspeed QFR Xcountry headset. After four
years of hitting the headband of my old 15K's on the canopy of the RV-6,
I switched to the QFR's because I am a Lightspeed fan and the QFR's have
a very narrow headband. I hardly ever contact the canopy any more.
The fact that the Xcountrys work very nicely, are very lightweight, and
cost less than $300 is an added bonus.
Sam Buchanan
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Dan,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: New RV7?!?!
>Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 10:39:18 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>The rumors are true...story here: http://www.rvproject.com
>
>Builders...all I can say is: FINISH THAT PROJECT!!!!! 8-)
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: New RV7?!?!
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
> >
> > Mr. Dan Checkoway....
> >
> > Are the rumors correct?!?! Is there another RV7 in the air??
> >
> > DO TELL!
> >
> >
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> >
>
>
Check out MSN PC Safety & Security to help ensure your PC is protected and
safe. http://specials.msn.com/msn/security.asp
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
I have the Bendix RSA injection system.
Walt
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
'Bout damn time!! Hurry up an fix the wiring so I can watch you put your
pants on!!
Way to go Dan- now you know what they've been saying about "...them rivets"
all these years!
Congratulations From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips do not archive
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
To those that inquired and offered the drain hole advice; there is no place for
a drain hole on the IO360 horizontal induction with the snorkel induction. The
induction sump itself is the low point. When I built my 6 a few years ago, I
drilled a weeper hole in the Fab airbox for that purpose but this system is different.
The easiest thing to do is to keep the water out. Alternatively, there
is a plug in the bottom of the induction sump that I will probably attach a
hose fitting to, along with a small valve that so that I have the option to drain
it if I should forget to cover it up and a shower comes along some day.
John Henley
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> I have the Bendix RSA injection system.
>
> Walt
>
If the problem is fuel boiling in the injector (or anything post servo)
lines, I believe that there is an improvement available. It seems like
I heard that there is some stronger spring that can be put into the
distribution block in (some) Bendix systems. This functions to increase
the pressures, thereby increasing the boiling temp. I would guess the
idle mixture would have to be adjusted to compensate.
Others more knowledgeable than I need to comment.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 447 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 30
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Walsh <fly1v1@yahoo.com>
I am new, and this may be a basic question. I am trying to see what
the performance benefits (or disadvantages) may be with a three bladed
prop, vs. a two bladed constant speed prop. Does anyone have any
numbers. I am looking at an RV-7A. Takeoff perfomance and climb
performance are not big numbers for me. I plan on doing a bit of aerobatics
though, and a good bit of X-C flying. In airplanes I have flown with 3
bladed props, they seemed a much better (quieter and smoother) ride, but
did not seem to make much of a difference in performance. Also, what
will this mean in terms of cost (both initial and annual)? Thanks!
---------------------------------
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Is this the F-16 Brian Walsh. If it is, when are you going to return to
Colorado and chase around the sky with the General again???
Randy Lervold has a good site and did a lot of prop testing. goto
http://www.rv-8.com and find his propellor section.
Gary Zilik
Brian Walsh wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Walsh <fly1v1@yahoo.com>
>
>I am new, and this may be a basic question. I am trying to see what
>the performance benefits (or disadvantages) may be with a three bladed
>prop, vs. a two bladed constant speed prop. Does anyone have any
>numbers. I am looking at an RV-7A. Takeoff perfomance and climb
>performance are not big numbers for me. I plan on doing a bit of aerobatics
>though, and a good bit of X-C flying. In airplanes I have flown with 3
>bladed props, they seemed a much better (quieter and smoother) ride, but
>did not seem to make much of a difference in performance. Also, what
>will this mean in terms of cost (both initial and annual)? Thanks!
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Guess it depends on what type of IO-360 you're talkin' bout.
On my IO-360-A1B6, you can see the horizontal induction sump is machined
with the sniffle valve hole right in there:
http://rvproject.com/images/2004/20040303_sniffle_valve_hole.jpg
http://rvproject.com/images/2004/20040303_sniffle_valve_installed.jpg
http://rvproject.com/images/2004/20040303_sniffle_valve_drain_tube2.jpg
http://rvproject.com/images/2004/20040303_drain_tube_side_profile.jpg
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
>
> To those that inquired and offered the drain hole advice; there is no
place for a drain hole on the IO360 horizontal induction with the snorkel
induction. The induction sump itself is the low point. When I built my 6 a
few years ago, I drilled a weeper hole in the Fab airbox for that purpose
but this system is different. The easiest thing to do is to keep the water
out. Alternatively, there is a plug in the bottom of the induction sump that
I will probably attach a hose fitting to, along with a small valve that so
that I have the option to drain it if I should forget to cover it up and a
shower comes along some day.
>
> John Henley
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: hidden pitot tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Quite so, it was a quite normal looking pitot tube on a base about 2-3" high
mounted inside the air intake. There is an F-86 "on a stick" not far from
where I live and I'll try and have a look at it soon.
Jim Oke
Wpg., MB
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: hidden pitot tube
> --> RV-List message posted by: "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
>
>
> I would love to see a good picture of the F-86 pitot source that Jim
> Oke mentioned. Is it a somewhat conventional pitot tube inside the
> engine inlet?
> I wonder if this was one of the tubes used to provide the engine's FCU
with an ambient pressure signal?
> Scott in Vancouver
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
> >
> >The placement of the pitot tube in the flow field around the airplane
should
> >not matter much. According to theory, any local increase in the
velocity of
> >the air (due to the shape of the wing, for instance) will cause a
> >equivalent decrease in local static pressure so the total (static plus
> >dynamic) pressure will remain unchanged. If this is compared to an
accurate
> >static pressure source, the difference is then dynamic pressure which
is
> >then fed to an ASI or whatever to show an airspeed indication.
> >
> >The reason for the long, skinny, forward-projecting pitot tubes on some
> >aircraft is to move the static vents on the pitot head clear of the
flow
> >field and get an accurate static pressure reading. If the static
pressure is
> >sensed elsewhere, then no need for this. Look at an F-86 sometime, the
pitot
> >tube is buried inside the engine intake duct and works fine (some
models
> >anyway).
> >
> >Jim Oke
> >RV-3, RV-6A
> >Wpg, MB
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: hidden pitot tube
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> ><evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> >>
> >> A question for those of you in the know....I was looking at a
Diamond
> >aircraft this morning and a friend pointed out that the pitot tube is
> >completly hidden in the leading edge of the wing...just a 1/4 hole!?
Can
> >this be done on an RV wing? It would be cool to have no pitot sticking
out
> >in the wind, but I dont know if the front of the leading edge is
undisturbed
> >air. It certainly is as it passes over the leading edge. Instinct tells
me
> >that the air pressure would be changed right at the leading edge and
the
> >airspeed readings would be inaccurate....but Diamond does it. Hmmmmmm
any
> >thoughts?
> >> Thanks ...Evan
> > >
> >>
>
>
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: hidden pitot tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Hi Kevin;
Yes, the presence of a boundary layer implies a loss of dynamic pressure due
surface friction effects so putting the pitot source at the wing surface
could have an effect on the total pressure measured. The other side of this
is that boundary layer thickness is affected by the distance back from the
LE of a surface and will be quite thin in any case.
In crude terms, the stagnation point would be smaller than most any
reasonable size "pitot tube" hole and so parts of the tube would still be
seeing some sort of ram or dynamic pressure regardless of AoA.
For a sample of an "internal" pitot tube have a look at most any high
performance sailplane, except these are located inevitably right at the tip
of the fuselage and are constructed this way to minimize drag. The trade
offs are some susceptibility to yaw effects and low/no icing resistance. The
club at Pendleton should be active soon if you want to see some gliders in
action.
Also the museum at Rockcliffe should have some F-86s on display, should it
not?
Cheers, Jim Oke
Winnipeg, Man.
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: hidden pitot tube
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> I'm not convinced that it is quite this simple. I suspect there are
> at least two potential issues:
>
> 1. There should be some energy lost in the boundary layer, so the
> pitot pressure may not be quite as high as it should be.
>
> 2. The stagnation point (the spot on the leading edge where the
> velocity comes to zero) moves as the angle of attch changes. So I
> think any hole location would only work properly at one angle of
> attack.
>
> If it was so simple to use use a hole in the wing leading edge,
> manufacturers wouldn't be spending money on pitot tubes.
>
> It would be an interesting science experiment to have a normal pitot
> tube, and a hole in the leading edge, each hooked up to an ASI. Then
> we could compare the readings from the two different pitot locations.
> I would be very hesitant to use a wing leading edge hole as my only
> pitot source until we can find definitive proof whether it would work
> properly or not.
>
> I would love to see a good picture of the F-86 pitot source that Jim
> Oke mentioned. Is it a somewhat conventional pitot tube inside the
> engine inlet? If so it would sidestep the boundary layer and
> stagnation point issues I mentioned.
>
> Kevin Horton
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
> >
> >The placement of the pitot tube in the flow field around the airplane
should
> >not matter much. According to theory, any local increase in the velocity
of
> >the air (due to the shape of the wing, for instance) will cause a
> >equivalent decrease in local static pressure so the total (static plus
> >dynamic) pressure will remain unchanged. If this is compared to an
accurate
> >static pressure source, the difference is then dynamic pressure which is
> >then fed to an ASI or whatever to show an airspeed indication.
> >
> >The reason for the long, skinny, forward-projecting pitot tubes on some
> >aircraft is to move the static vents on the pitot head clear of the flow
> >field and get an accurate static pressure reading. If the static pressure
is
> >sensed elsewhere, then no need for this. Look at an F-86 sometime, the
pitot
> >tube is buried inside the engine intake duct and works fine (some models
> >anyway).
> >
> >Jim Oke
> >RV-3, RV-6A
> >Wpg, MB
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: hidden pitot tube
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> ><evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> >>
> >> A question for those of you in the know....I was looking at a Diamond
> >aircraft this morning and a friend pointed out that the pitot tube is
> >completly hidden in the leading edge of the wing...just a 1/4 hole!? Can
> >this be done on an RV wing? It would be cool to have no pitot sticking
out
> >in the wind, but I dont know if the front of the leading edge is
undisturbed
> >air. It certainly is as it passes over the leading edge. Instinct tells
me
> >that the air pressure would be changed right at the leading edge and the
> >airspeed readings would be inaccurate....but Diamond does it. Hmmmmmm any
> >thoughts?
> >> Thanks ...Evan
> > >
> >>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | capacitive fuel senders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
Check out Ken Weir's web site at
http://www.rst-engr.com/rst/articles/KP89SEP.pdf for DIY capacitance
senders.
-----Original Message-----
From: RV4 [mailto:VansRV4GRVMJ@btinternet.com]
Subject: RV-List: capacitive fuel senders
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ@btinternet.com>
Hi,
I have capacitive fuel senders for my RV7, indicators from Pacific, need
converter from capacitive to voltage.
Has anyone got similar indicators? where did you get the converters?
thanks
Marcel
RV7 #71481
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: <groves@epix.net>
Way to go Dan, You the MAN!!!!
Kirk 81925
>
> From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
> Date: 2004/03/28 Sun PM 02:25:13 EST
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: New RV7?!?!
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> 'Bout damn time!! Hurry up an fix the wiring so I can watch you put your
> pants on!!
>
> Way to go Dan- now you know what they've been saying about "...them rivets"
> all these years!
>
> Congratulations From The PossumWorks in TN
>
> Mark Phillips do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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--> RV-List message posted by: <groves@epix.net>
Hello Brian, I don't have my 8 in the air yet, but I can safely say that a three blade prop will be quieter and some what smoother, but it will be slower than a two blade. Check out Randy Lervolds web site he did a great testing job with the older Hartzell and the new whirlwind props,www.RV-8.com,
Good Luck,
Kirk RV-8 81925
>
> From: Brian Walsh <fly1v1@yahoo.com>
> Date: 2004/03/28 Sun PM 03:20:55 EST
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-7 Props
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Brian Walsh <fly1v1@yahoo.com>
>
> I am new, and this may be a basic question. I am trying to see what
> the performance benefits (or disadvantages) may be with a three bladed
> prop, vs. a two bladed constant speed prop. Does anyone have any
> numbers. I am looking at an RV-7A. Takeoff perfomance and climb
> performance are not big numbers for me. I plan on doing a bit of aerobatics
> though, and a good bit of X-C flying. In airplanes I have flown with 3
> bladed props, they seemed a much better (quieter and smoother) ride, but
> did not seem to make much of a difference in performance. Also, what
> will this mean in terms of cost (both initial and annual)? Thanks!
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 38
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|
"Rocket List" <rocket-list@matronics.com>,
"RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | IO-540 fuel pump ??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Fuel Pump questions?????
I have an IO-540 J4A5 version engine and it has the square fuel pump:
Lycoming part number - 74547
Description - Fuel Pump (RG-17980)
It has two small (AN-2) fittings, one on either side of the case and I was told
they were drains or overflows of some type. So, I connected them to small tubing
and ran them to the bottom of the cowl where they would drain away from the
exhaust.
1. Does anybody really know what they are?
When the engine is running, the engine fuel pump provides 25-30 psi pressure.
The electric pump puts out 35 psi. With the engine off and the fuel system pressurized
with the electric fuel pump, fuel comes out of one of them.
2. Is this normal?
I have been chasing a oil leak, one of my oil cooler lines, less than two years
old, decided to give up and was replaced. So, I have been checking all the
little drops of oil on the floor after each flight to make sure that I fixed the
problem. Yesterday, I found two drops of oil and it appears to have come from
one of the engine mounted fuel pump drains.
3. Is this normal?
4. Is there is diaphragm with oil on one side and gas on the other in this
type of pump?
I just want to make sure that the pump isn't showing signs of failure.
Thanks,
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
Message 39
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| Subject: | Canopy room and headsets. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I use these.
http://www.quiettechnologies.com/index_002.htm
Bridge thickness: 0"
Larry Bowen, RV-8 FWF Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com
Larry,
I followed the link and could find no reference on their list to price. It seems
they are only passive and have no ANR function. I would be very interested
in these if they are either relatively cheap or I can try them out to see how
they compare with conventional sets.
At 60+ and with some slight hearing loss I really appreciate the performance of
the better ANR sets and unless these can match their performance I would be unwilling
to spend much on them.
Can you tell us what you paid and how you think they compare with other specific
headsets.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | hidden pitot tube - F-86 Intake Pitot Tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vinnfizz@aol.com
Check out the following link for a picture of the F-86 Intake
Click here: Google Image Result for
www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/AWA1/101-200/walk146_SAAF_Sabres/part2/images_Jan_Teipel/8_
Ed Flow
C-140 Flying
RV-8 Preview Plans
Message 41
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|
"RV-List Digest Server" <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Re: Canopy room and headsets. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Yeah...and that pink mike boom will be a hit with all your flying buddies!
:-)
DO NOT ARCHIVE!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy room and headsets.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
> I use these.
> http://www.quiettechnologies.com/index_002.htm
> Bridge thickness: 0"
> Larry Bowen, RV-8 FWF Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> Larry,
> I followed the link and could find no reference on their list to price.
It seems they are only passive and have no ANR function. I would be very
interested in these if they are either relatively cheap or I can try them
out to see how they compare with conventional sets.
> At 60+ and with some slight hearing loss I really appreciate the
performance of the better ANR sets and unless these can match their
performance I would be unwilling to spend much on them.
> Can you tell us what you paid and how you think they compare with other
specific headsets.
> Rob
> Rob W M Shipley
> N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Flush mounted pitot |
--> RV-List message posted by: JVanLaak@aol.com
A quick Google search of "F-86 pitot" located a fun article on the history of
the P-86 through F-86. Note that the original mount inside the duct was
inaccurate due to the effect of engine flow.
All F-86As were initially delivered with the pitot head located inside the
air intake duct. It was found in practice that false airspeed readings could be
obtained due to the increased airflow within the intake duct, so North
American decided to move the pitot head to the tip of a short boom that extended
from
the leading edge of the starboard wingtip. All F-86As were later retrofitted
with the wingtip boom when went through IRAN (Inspect and Repair as
Necessary).
Message 43
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
I think we can all say we feel a part of Dan's project. If it wasn't for his
web site I'd be correcting things, scratching my head and probably have a
stalled project. Additionally, I have been fortunate to visit Dan's place
and see his project on three occasions. Also met his wonderful wife. They
will soon be able to take advantage of this 2 year project. Dan's work is
meticulous and an example for all.
Personally, I'd like to thank Dan for the many questions he has answered for
me. Again, I wouldn't be as far along as I am now with his help and web
site.
Congrats Dan, hope to see you at P19 before too long.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New RV7?!?!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> The rumors are true...story here: http://www.rvproject.com
>
> Builders...all I can say is: FINISH THAT PROJECT!!!!! 8-)
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: New RV7?!?!
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
> >
> > Mr. Dan Checkoway....
> >
> > Are the rumors correct?!?! Is there another RV7 in the air??
> >
> > DO TELL!
> >
> >
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> >
>
>
Message 44
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
FWIW and SYA (since you asked!)...
Now this is early in my journey, and I don't have a lot of experience with
this stuff- only airplane I've every owned, built, etc., and have never played
Kevin Horton on TV or anywhere else................my 150 hp RV-6A has a really
nice Craig Catto 3-blade (it says "66"x66""on it). My test pilot says it's a
helluva prop. Without gear fairings or pants, and after multiple gps check
runs (what else do ya do for 40 hours?!) I can safely report that I'm seeing
175+ mph indicated at 2-3000' with 2700-2750 rpm, 40-60 deg. OAT. After
multiple climb tests I'm getting at best 1200 fpm solo, which is fine for me and
still blows me away, and I'm subjectively VERY happy with the fan. Makes it a
little tougher to pull the lower cowl (needs a longer slot for the nose gear leg)
Craig doesn't sell stock or pay commisions, but I'd recommend giving him a
call & hope ya don't need it real soon.......................and no, ya caint
have mine!
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
Message 45
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>The rumors are true...story here: http://www.rvproject.com
>
>Builders...all I can say is: FINISH THAT PROJECT!!!!! 8-)
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: New RV7?!?!
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>>
>>Mr. Dan Checkoway....
>>
>>Are the rumors correct?!?! Is there another RV7 in the air??
>>
>>DO TELL!
>>
>>
>>Do Not Archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
Good job Dan, hope your electrical problems are miner
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hi John:
I really don't want to cause you any concern but what happened to you is
what we call hydraulicing. It is usually caused by oil draining down past
the rings on the lower cylinders on radial engines. If a cylinder has enough
liquid in it (in your case water) to prevent it from reaching top dead
center on a compression stroke and the engine is forced to turn further
because the liquid can not be compressed something has to give. Usually it
is the cylinder head partially separated from the barrel or a bent
connecting rod. If it is a bent rod it usually goes undetected until there
is failure and this can happen with very little or no warning.
To prevent this from happening on the radial engines we turned the engines
through by hand enough blades to check for hydaulicing, if in the process
any resistance was encountered we turned the engine backwards to clear any
oil. Some of the big engine starters were equipped with a clutch in the
starters so the engine could not be forced beyond a certain pressure.
At the risk of getting this post to long I will relate an experience that
happened to me some years back while flying a DeHavilland Beaver on
floats.This Beaver was equipped with the standard P & W R985 -450 HP 9 Cyl
Radial engine.
I was moving a couple of boats from one lake to another, had finished the
move and was taking off empty out of this rather small lake when the cowling
gave a couple of unusual shakes, got my attention but then ran on as ever.
During the next take-off in front of home base just as I lifted out of the
water there was a load bang and the prop stopped rigid in front of me. They
came out with a boat and towed me back to the dock.
A link rod (connecting rod) had failed and totally destroyed the engine
internally About a hundred hours previously the master cylinder had been
changed by a crew working late, they got the cylinder off and then quit for
the night covering the engine with a tarp. During the night someone moved
the propeller and unlocked the rings on another cylinder and put a slight
bend in one of the link rods. The engineer didn't think any damage was done
and said nothing about it.
Had the failure occurred under different circumstances I probably wouldn't
be writing this tonight.
Eustace Bowhay
----- Original Message -----
From: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
>
> Listners (and Vans),
>
> I had an interesting experience last week with my RV7. I have the
IO306 200 HP engine installed with the induction air intake mounted on the
inlet ramp of the baffle. I parked the plane outside for three nights and it
was exposed to approx 3 inches of rainfall during that time. When I went to
start the engine, it rotated about two blades and then stopped. I got out
and tried to pull the prop through but it would not pull through. Hum--whats
going on here?
>
> I removed the cowling and the bottom plugs and was shocked to have
water come out of the two rear cylinders. I removed the plug on the bottom
of the sump, lifted the tail and drained about a quart if water out of the
induction sump. While I had the plugs out, I engaged the starter to force
any remaining water out of the cylinders. Luckily, the starter was not
damaged and upon reinstalling the plugs, the engine started and ran fine.
>
> I had never thought about water entering the induction system
before but you can bet I will have a cover over the air filter as well as
inlet plugs on my plane before I park it outside again. Hope this saves
someone some grief in the future. Vans, you might want to put a short blurb
in the RV ator about this.
>
> On the bright side, I found that I have very tight sealing fuel
filler caps as I had no water in the tanks.
>
> John Henley, N57LD, 210 Hrs
>
>
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
I was advised during construction (by a friend) to drill a small drain hole
in the bottom of the air filter tube just before the fuel injection throttle
body.
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
>
> Hi John:
>
> I really don't want to cause you any concern but what happened to you is
> what we call hydraulicing. It is usually caused by oil draining down past
> the rings on the lower cylinders on radial engines. If a cylinder has
enough
> liquid in it (in your case water) to prevent it from reaching top dead
> center on a compression stroke and the engine is forced to turn further
> because the liquid can not be compressed something has to give. Usually it
> is the cylinder head partially separated from the barrel or a bent
> connecting rod. If it is a bent rod it usually goes undetected until there
> is failure and this can happen with very little or no warning.
>
> To prevent this from happening on the radial engines we turned the
engines
> through by hand enough blades to check for hydaulicing, if in the process
> any resistance was encountered we turned the engine backwards to clear any
> oil. Some of the big engine starters were equipped with a clutch in the
> starters so the engine could not be forced beyond a certain pressure.
>
> At the risk of getting this post to long I will relate an experience that
> happened to me some years back while flying a DeHavilland Beaver on
> floats.This Beaver was equipped with the standard P & W R985 -450 HP 9 Cyl
> Radial engine.
>
> I was moving a couple of boats from one lake to another, had finished the
> move and was taking off empty out of this rather small lake when the
cowling
> gave a couple of unusual shakes, got my attention but then ran on as ever.
> During the next take-off in front of home base just as I lifted out of the
> water there was a load bang and the prop stopped rigid in front of me.
They
> came out with a boat and towed me back to the dock.
>
> A link rod (connecting rod) had failed and totally destroyed the engine
> internally About a hundred hours previously the master cylinder had been
> changed by a crew working late, they got the cylinder off and then quit
for
> the night covering the engine with a tarp. During the night someone moved
> the propeller and unlocked the rings on another cylinder and put a slight
> bend in one of the link rods. The engineer didn't think any damage was
done
> and said nothing about it.
>
> Had the failure occurred under different circumstances I probably wouldn't
> be writing this tonight.
>
> Eustace Bowhay
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
> To: <RV-List@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
> >
> > Listners (and Vans),
> >
> > I had an interesting experience last week with my RV7. I have the
> IO306 200 HP engine installed with the induction air intake mounted on the
> inlet ramp of the baffle. I parked the plane outside for three nights and
it
> was exposed to approx 3 inches of rainfall during that time. When I went
to
> start the engine, it rotated about two blades and then stopped. I got out
> and tried to pull the prop through but it would not pull through.
Hum--whats
> going on here?
> >
> > I removed the cowling and the bottom plugs and was shocked to
have
> water come out of the two rear cylinders. I removed the plug on the bottom
> of the sump, lifted the tail and drained about a quart if water out of the
> induction sump. While I had the plugs out, I engaged the starter to force
> any remaining water out of the cylinders. Luckily, the starter was not
> damaged and upon reinstalling the plugs, the engine started and ran fine.
> >
> > I had never thought about water entering the induction system
> before but you can bet I will have a cover over the air filter as well as
> inlet plugs on my plane before I park it outside again. Hope this saves
> someone some grief in the future. Vans, you might want to put a short
blurb
> in the RV ator about this.
> >
> > On the bright side, I found that I have very tight sealing fuel
> filler caps as I had no water in the tanks.
> >
> > John Henley, N57LD, 210 Hrs
> >
> >
>
>
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Re: hidden pitot tube - F-86 Intake Pitot Tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Yes, that looks like it.
Check the top of the duct just below the 1 in the date on the photo. The
picture is rather dark but it sure looks like a pitot tube there.
Jim Oke
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vinnfizz@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: hidden pitot tube - F-86 Intake Pitot Tube
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vinnfizz@aol.com
>
> Check out the following link for a picture of the F-86 Intake
>
> Click here: Google Image Result for
>
www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/AWA1/101-200/walk146_SAAF_Sabres/part2/images
_Jan_Teipel/8_
>
>
> Ed Flow
> C-140 Flying
> RV-8 Preview Plans
>
>
Message 49
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| Subject: | scratching the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Maybe everybody on the list already knows this, but some of the new
folks might not. I found a way to scratch my canopy while I was sanding
the edges.
When you get to the shaping of the edge of the canopy (rounding it off),
or any time you use coarse sand paper on the edge, be very careful how
you remove the dust that accumulates. I made a lot of fairly deep
scratches along the edge by wiping off the dust with my finger. It
looks like, and mostly is, just plexiglass dust, but apparently there is
some small amount of coarse grit that has popped off the sand paper
mixed in with it. If you press your finger firmly against the plexi and
wipe it along the edge, a few grains of abrasive will get caught between
your finger and the plexi resulting in deep scratches roughly parallel
to the edge. Use a brush. I figured it out too late.
I am now paying for my sins by polishing these scratches out. Some are
so deep that I have to start with fine sand paper (600 - 1000) and then
use the Novus coarse scratch remover followed by the fine scratch
remover. It works but it's a lot of labor. If anybody knows a way to
mechanize this process, please do tell.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 fuel pump ??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Tom Gummo wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
>Fuel Pump questions?????
>
>
>I have an IO-540 J4A5 version engine and it has the square fuel pump:
>
>Lycoming part number - 74547
>
>Description - Fuel Pump (RG-17980)
>
>
>It has two small (AN-2) fittings, one on either side of the case and I was told
they were drains or overflows of some type. So, I connected them to small tubing
and ran them to the bottom of the cowl where they would drain away from
the exhaust.
>
>
>1. Does anybody really know what they are?
>
They are 'drains' in case of diaphragm failure .... and fuel leakage
.... where it's not supposed to be.
>When the engine is running, the engine fuel pump provides 25-30 psi pressure.
The electric pump puts out 35 psi. With the engine off and the fuel system
pressurized with the electric fuel pump, fuel comes out of one of them.
>
>
>2. Is this normal?
>
I don't think so, but don't really know without seeing the pump.
>I have been chasing a oil leak, one of my oil cooler lines, less than two years
old, decided to give up and was replaced. So, I have been checking all the
little drops of oil on the floor after each flight to make sure that I fixed
the problem. Yesterday, I found two drops of oil and it appears to have come
from one of the engine mounted fuel pump drains.
>
>
>3. Is this normal?
>
Again, I don't think so.
>4. Is there is diaphragm with oil on one side and gas on the other in
this type of pump?
>
Yes. One diaphragm seals the fuel pump from the engine oil.
>I just want to make sure that the pump isn't showing signs of failure.
>
Well, I hate to say this, but I think it is. You can remove the screws
and inspect the diaphragms before you ship it off for rebuilding.
Linn
>Thanks,
>
>Tom Gummo
>Apple Valley, CA
>Harmon Rocket-II
>
>do not archive
>
>http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
>
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
I have never had any problems using Bondo. I used it any place I needed to fill
on three different planes and have not had the problems that another lister
did. Mixed well and feathered out by sanding should work fine. Auto body shops
swear by the stuff when repairing cars and if there was a consistent problem
with the paint after a time, they would know about it and stop using it.
Jim Cone
3-Peat Offender
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