Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:26 AM - Re: hidden pitot tube - F-86 Intake Pitot Tube (Kevin Horton)
2. 05:17 AM - Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix (Sam Buchanan)
3. 05:31 AM - Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix (Bob U.)
4. 05:38 AM - used MT prop for sale (John Huft)
5. 05:59 AM - Adjustable Rudder Pedals (Ted Hultzapple)
6. 06:24 AM - accident rate in experimentals (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
7. 06:41 AM - Re: accident rate in experimentals (Brian Denk)
8. 07:06 AM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (Scott Bilinski)
9. 07:10 AM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (Scott Bilinski)
10. 07:23 AM - Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (Scott Bilinski)
11. 07:23 AM - Re: New RV7?!?! (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
12. 07:26 AM - Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
13. 08:34 AM - Re: accident rate in experimentals (Scott Bilinski)
14. 08:38 AM - Re: RV-7 Props (HCRV6@aol.com)
15. 08:41 AM - Re: accident rate in experimentals (Tedd McHenry)
16. 08:44 AM - Re: used MT prop for sale (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
17. 08:57 AM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
18. 09:21 AM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (Scott Bilinski)
19. 10:19 AM - Canopy Cutting (Jim and Bev Cone)
20. 10:41 AM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
21. 11:40 AM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (Bruce Gray)
22. 11:52 AM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (Jeff Dowling)
23. 12:07 PM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (Scott Bilinski)
24. 02:40 PM - Re: accident rate in experimentals (Scott Bilinski)
25. 03:12 PM - Re: scratching the canopy (Gert)
26. 05:03 PM - Re: scratching the canopy (Alex Peterson)
27. 05:16 PM - Dynon EMI noise problem is fixed (Dan Checkoway)
28. 05:19 PM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (Alex Peterson)
29. 05:26 PM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (Alex Peterson)
30. 06:23 PM - Re: RV-7 Props (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
31. 06:37 PM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (Terry Watson)
32. 07:39 PM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (Alex Peterson)
33. 07:59 PM - Optional Side Step question (Karie Daniel)
34. 08:22 PM - Manual Elevator Trim (Jack Lockamy)
35. 08:39 PM - Re: Manual Elevator Trim (Jerry Springer)
36. 08:39 PM - Re: Manual Elevator Trim (Sam Buchanan)
37. 08:46 PM - Re: Optional Side Step question (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
38. 08:46 PM - Re: Optional Side Step question (linn walters)
39. 08:47 PM - Re: Manual Elevator Trim (David Carter)
40. 10:03 PM - Re: Dynon EMI noise problem is fixed (Ross Schlotthauer)
41. 10:32 PM - Re: Dynon EMI noise problem is fixed (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: hidden pitot tube - F-86 Intake Pitot Tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
But, why do we think this pitot tube is connected to the airspeed
system? It could be connected to the engine's fuel control unit.
I pulled out some books off my book shelf and looked at pictures of
Canadian built Sabres. The Sabre 2, 4, 5 and 6 models all had a
pitot tube mounted on a boom extending ahead of the right wing tip.
I couldn't find any good pictures of the Sabre 1 or 3 models, or of
North American built F-86s. See:
<http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/AWA1/101-200/walk146_SAAF_Sabres/images%20Dave%20Bekker/sabre57.jpg>
Kevin Horton
At 23:38 -0600 28/3/04, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
>
>Yes, that looks like it.
>
>Check the top of the duct just below the 1 in the date on the photo. The
>picture is rather dark but it sure looks like a pitot tube there.
>
>Jim Oke
>Wpg., MB
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Vinnfizz@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: hidden pitot tube - F-86 Intake Pitot Tube
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Vinnfizz@aol.com
>>
>> Check out the following link for a picture of the F-86 Intake
>>
>> Click here: Google Image Result for
>>
>www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/AWA1/101-200/walk146_SAAF_Sabres/part2/images
>_Jan_Teipel/8_
>>
>>
>> Ed Flow
>> C-140 Flying
>> RV-8 Preview Plans
> >
>>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Jim and Bev Cone wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone"
> <jimnbev@olypen.com>
>
> I have never had any problems using Bondo. I used it any place I
> needed to fill on three different planes and have not had the
> problems that another lister did. Mixed well and feathered out by
> sanding should work fine. Auto body shops swear by the stuff when
> repairing cars and if there was a consistent problem with the paint
> after a time, they would know about it and stop using it.
>
> Jim Cone 3-Peat Offender
Dittos, Jim. Many times I have heard warnings on this list about the
dire consequences of using Bondo on our planes for minor ding repair but
this hasn't been supported by my experience. My RV-6 has over five years
on its paint job and there is absolutely no evidence of problems with
areas where I used Bondo and spot putty to correct small boo boos.
It is, however, important that correct technique be used regardless of
which filler is applied. I wonder if problems some have found are due to
improperly applied product.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 560 hrs)
http://thervjournal.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
Jim and Bev Cone wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
>
>I have never had any problems using Bondo. I used it any place I needed to fill
on three different planes and have not had the problems that another lister
did. Mixed well and feathered out by sanding should work fine. Auto body shops
swear by the stuff when repairing cars and if there was a consistent problem
with the paint after a time, they would know about it and stop using it.
>
>Jim Cone
>3-Peat Offender
>
================================================
Bondo may adhere reasonably well to non vibrating STEEL auto parts.
However.... getting it secured to ALUMINUM in a first rate fashion for
the long term may be a far different matter. In a helicopter blade shop
I use to work in many years ago, we used a special primer baked on to
our ALUMINUM parts to get bondo-like products to safely stick. YMMV....
and if I'm wrong, never mind. :-)
Do not archive
Bob
Message 4
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| Subject: | used MT prop for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
Hi All
I have for sale a 3-blade MT prop, MTV-12-B-183. This is the hydraulic
constant-speed version, 72" dia. Works with McCauley or Woodward governors.
It has 127.6 hours tach time. It is in near perfect condition, with no chips
or dings on the leading edges (an advantage of taildraggers :o)). The
spinner is painted Ferrari red.
I removed this prop from my RV-8 to replace it with an Aerocomposites
2-blade. Early testing indicates the AC is 4-5 kts faster. Climb is similar
for both. The MT is smoother.
Asking $6500 plus shipping.
John Huft
rv8tor@lazy8.net
Message 5
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| Subject: | Adjustable Rudder Pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ted Hultzapple" <thultzap@rochester.rr.com>
I 've changed my mind about the ground adjustable rudder pedals in my RV8A
Quickbuild. It looks like all of the attach points are in the fuselage for
the adjustable pedals. Does any one know if the rails for the ground
adjustable pedals will interfere with the in flight adjustable ones? Better,
yet, does anyone have in flight pedals that they would part with?
Ted
Message 6
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| Subject: | accident rate in experimentals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
I just received a letter from EAA national as part of their tech
counselor and Flight advisor program.
They are very excited about some data put out by the faa regarding
accident rates between homebuilts and GA. Answer:
"The accident rate for homebuilts in the past 12 months was better than
that of general aviation."
I have absolutely no idea as to what semantics and data are being used
here. But no matter how you slice it, this is a very interesting piece
of data. I have to believe, based on my personal experience with RV's,
that we are flying a generally safer plane that other homebuilts. Does
anyone have some data on this?
I realize this gets fairly complicated analyzing this stuff. I know you
can dice any which way to say anything. But I would like to be able to
say to friends and family with confidence 2 things:
1. Experimentals are safer than other commercially available aircraft in
General Aviation
2. My particular plane is safer than other experimentals.
Can I?
Michael Stewart
Do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | accident rate in experimentals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
>I have absolutely no idea as to what semantics and data are being used
>here. But no matter how you slice it, this is a very interesting piece
>of data. I have to believe, based on my personal experience with RV's,
>that we are flying a generally safer plane that other homebuilts. Does
>anyone have some data on this?
>
>
>I realize this gets fairly complicated analyzing this stuff. I know you
>can dice any which way to say anything. But I would like to be able to
>say to friends and family with confidence 2 things:
>
>1. Experimentals are safer than other commercially available aircraft in
>General Aviation
I could not speak about ALL experimentals in general, but I know that MY
airplane is a tougher, more responsive machine, built with care, by the guy
who's butt is IN it when it's airborne. Can't get better quality control
than that. The experimental world is typically driven by motivated,
sincerely passionate builders/pilots who derive a significant portion of
life satisfaction from their airplanes. I then postulate that the average
experimental homebuilder/pilot is a more attentive, cautious and diligent
pilot. He knows every nuance of his airplane, every noise, squeek, rumble
and rattle. I can tell immediately if something isn't right with my RV. As
a former C-172/Katana renter, I had no idea from one airplane to the next,
just what was really going on with it.
>
>2. My particular plane is safer than other experimentals.
A properly built RV is, IMHO, the safest kit aircraft out there. Load
distribution is excellent, fastener density is good, no reliance upon
!#
#$*& plastic for structural integrity....
>
>
>Can I?
Hell yeah. We're pilots. We are expected to be opinionated. ;)
>
>
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Van's repeat offender program member.
http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Fuel boiling in the injector lines is a possibility. I have this problem
after landing and about half way taxing to the hanger it starts this
miss/RPM fluxuation. Its very annoying and I have done everything I can
think of and nothing has fixed it. What helped the most was changing the
injector Nozzles to the smallest size possible. The AFP injection came with
.028 nozzles. I installed .022 and this helped the most. Just make sure
your fuel flow is the same as before changing the nozzles. What this change
does is increase the pressure in the injector lines thus raising the
boiling point. BUT, I am now adjusting each cylinder so they all peak at
the same fuel flow, by doing this I had to install larger nozzles in some
cylinders which is making the problem worse again.
At 01:23 PM 3/27/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
>
>All, my IO-360 has begun to run strange at low rpm after it has warmed up. I
>noticed this when taxiing into the FBO yesterday - the engine would run
>smooth, then it would drop rpm then pick back up again. At any thing above
>about
>1200-1300 rpm the engine is fine.
>
>Any thoughts about what could be the cause? Improper idle mixture adjustment
>maybe? The engine should show a slight rise in rpm when the mixture lever is
>brought back to idle cutoff, but doesn't, which is an indicator of idle
>mixture problem (I think).
>
>Walt Shipley RV-8A 81 hrs
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
With your set up the fuel is boiling before the injector lines. Actually
that is how you determine where the fuel is boiling. If the boost pump does
nothing then fuel is boild in the injector lines.
At 12:47 PM 3/27/04 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
>Before, I worked out most of the heat issues on my plane. It would
>sometimes run rough and even quit once during the taxi back. Now when I
>hear the first hint of roughness, I turn on the electric fuel pump and the
>additional pressure seems to keep enough pressure inside the fuel lines so
>that they don't "vapor lock". It is worth a try. Good luck.
>
>Tom Gummo
>Apple Valley, CA
>Harmon Rocket-II
>
>do not archive
>
>http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: IO-360 Engine problem
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>>
>> Hi Walt,
>>
>> Just a quick thought....have you flown your plane during the "warmer"
>> months? I'm not bein sarcastic, the only reason ask this, is that nicely
>> warmed up and hot IO's (on warm days) can have a tendency to run rough at
>> low RPM's due to the fuel boiling before it reaches the injector. This
>> usually only happens with low fuel flow and goes away at higher RPM's and
>> Fuel flows becuase their is cooler fuel to the injectors and more air
>moving
>> through the cowling.
>>
>> At first glance I wouldn't worry, but I'd make sure you have firesleeve on
>> all the fuel lines, especially the line from the servo to the spider (that
>> will help), and the line from the engine driven pump to the servo covered
>in
>> firesleeve also.
>>
>> Just my 2 cents, but I notice this phenomenon (IO-360) also during the
>> warmer summer months.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Stein Bruch
>> RV6's, Minneapolis.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RVEIGHTA@aol.com
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: IO-360 Engine problem
>>
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
>>
>> All, my IO-360 has begun to run strange at low rpm after it has warmed up.
>I
>> noticed this when taxiing into the FBO yesterday - the engine would run
>> smooth, then it would drop rpm then pick back up again. At any thing above
>> about
>> 1200-1300 rpm the engine is fine.
>>
>> Any thoughts about what could be the cause? Improper idle mixture
>> adjustment
>> maybe? The engine should show a slight rise in rpm when the mixture lever
>> is
>> brought back to idle cutoff, but doesn't, which is an indicator of idle
>> mixture problem (I think).
>>
>> Walt Shipley RV-8A 81 hrs
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Might want to check compression. It is very possible to bend a rod this way.
At 08:20 AM 3/28/04 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
>
>Listners (and Vans),
>
> I had an interesting experience last week with my RV7. I have the
>IO306 200 HP engine installed with the induction air intake mounted on the
>inlet ramp of the baffle. I parked the plane outside for three nights and it
>was exposed to approx 3 inches of rainfall during that time. When I went to
>start the engine, it rotated about two blades and then stopped. I got out
>and tried to pull the prop through but it would not pull through. Hum--whats
>going on here?
>
> I removed the cowling and the bottom plugs and was shocked to have
>water come out of the two rear cylinders. I removed the plug on the bottom
>of the sump, lifted the tail and drained about a quart if water out of the
>induction sump. While I had the plugs out, I engaged the starter to force
>any remaining water out of the cylinders. Luckily, the starter was not
>damaged and upon reinstalling the plugs, the engine started and ran fine.
>
> I had never thought about water entering the induction system before
>but you can bet I will have a cover over the air filter as well as inlet
>plugs on my plane before I park it outside again. Hope this saves someone
>some grief in the future. Vans, you might want to put a short blurb in the
>RV ator about this.
>
> On the bright side, I found that I have very tight sealing fuel
>filler caps as I had no water in the tanks.
>
>John Henley, N57LD, 210 Hrs
>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 3/28/04 1:45:59 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> The rumors are true...story here: http://www.rvproject.com
>
> Builders...all I can say is: FINISH THAT PROJECT!!!!! 8-)
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
>
>
Congratulations Dan!
Thanks for the very nice (and encouraging) note on you website about your
first flight. I can hardly wait! (Still two months away, I guess.)
Be sure and let us know what you find to be the problem. A friend of mine
had his regulator fail (Van's 35 amp system) on an early flight with similar
consequences. Failed a number of electrical things on the airplane, but most
were covered under warrantee.
Wish you Good, Safe flying!
Dan H
RV-7A (almost done)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 and RV8 IO360 (200 HP) Air Inlet Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 3/29/04 10:23:56 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <
> bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Might want to check compression. It is very possible to bend a rod this way.
>
>
> At 08:20 AM 3/28/04 -0800, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "john henley" <henley@seii.net>
> >
>
You would have to check compression the automobile way, which could be
dangerous! It won't show on a leakdown test.
Dan H
RV-7A (almost done)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: accident rate in experimentals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
All the stupid people killed themselves already?
At 09:21 AM 3/29/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
><mstewart@iss.net>
>
>I just received a letter from EAA national as part of their tech
>counselor and Flight advisor program.
>
>
>They are very excited about some data put out by the faa regarding
>accident rates between homebuilts and GA. Answer:
>
>"The accident rate for homebuilts in the past 12 months was better than
>that of general aviation."
>
>
>I have absolutely no idea as to what semantics and data are being used
>here. But no matter how you slice it, this is a very interesting piece
>of data. I have to believe, based on my personal experience with RV's,
>that we are flying a generally safer plane that other homebuilts. Does
>anyone have some data on this?
>
>
>I realize this gets fairly complicated analyzing this stuff. I know you
>can dice any which way to say anything. But I would like to be able to
>say to friends and family with confidence 2 things:
>
>1. Experimentals are safer than other commercially available aircraft in
>General Aviation
>
>2. My particular plane is safer than other experimentals.
>
>
>Can I?
>
>
>Michael Stewart
>
>Do not archive
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 3/28/04 7:36:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Fiveonepw@aol.com writes:
<< I'm getting at best 1200 fpm solo >>
Mark: Did you mean "at best" or at did you mean to say "at least"? I'm
considering a Catto prop also for my 180 HP RV-6 and curious about the climb rate
to expect as well as the cruise performance. Thanks
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: accident rate in experimentals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Michael:
I gathered some safety data on RVs a few years ago. It won't answer all your
questions, but I think it will help you quantify the risk of an RV vis-a-vis
general aviation.
http://www.vansairforce.org/articles/pilotage/pil_rv_safety.shtml
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: used MT prop for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
In a message dated 03/29/2004 5:39:38 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv8tor@lazy8.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
Hi All
I have for sale a 3-blade MT prop, MTV-12-B-183. This is the hydraulic
constant-speed version, 72" dia. Works with McCauley or Woodward governors.
Can you provide the full number?
It should be MTV-12-B/183-?.
The last number is the specific blade design number.
Van's Aircraft advertises the MTV-12-B/183-59 propeller for the Lycoming 360
engine. That may be the full number if you purchased it from Van's Aircraft.
One of my customers has the MTV-12-B/183-59d propeller. The "d" indicates a
specific modification to the -59 blade design.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
In a message dated 03/29/2004 7:07:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
(Stuff Cut) I have this problem
after landing and about half way taxing to the hanger it starts this
miss/RPM fluxuation.
Fuel Injector throttle bodies have internal fuel seals. When the seals fail,
raw fuel is dumped from the throttle body into the air intake manifold. (No
external leaks unless you have an intake manifold drain.)
A symptom of this can be as you described above. A rough running engine
(overly rich mixture from the additional fuel entering at the throttle body) at
low power settings.
Jim Ayers
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Interesting, woould leaning make a difference?
At 11:56 AM 3/29/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 03/29/2004 7:07:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>(Stuff Cut) I have this problem
>after landing and about half way taxing to the hanger it starts this
>miss/RPM fluxuation.
>
>Fuel Injector throttle bodies have internal fuel seals. When the seals fail,
>raw fuel is dumped from the throttle body into the air intake manifold. (No
>external leaks unless you have an intake manifold drain.)
>
>A symptom of this can be as you described above. A rough running engine
>(overly rich mixture from the additional fuel entering at the throttle body)
>at
>low power settings.
>
>Jim Ayers
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
I found a really good way to cut the canopy that is much easier than using the
cutting disk that Van's provides. It allows cutting with one pass at a fairly
high speed with little binding of the cutter. It cuts the Plexiglas like a hot
knife through butter. I used a die grinder with a 1/8 inch collet and mounted
one of the little one inch fiber cutting disks made for the Dremmel tool.
Harbor Freight sells a very small die grinder kit that has several accessories
including a 1/8 inch collet for $14.99. The item number is 47050-OVGA and is
available online at Harborfreight.com.
Jim Cone
3-Peat Offender
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
The Bendix injector on a Cherokee Arrow IO-360 engine leaked in the internal
seals in the throttle body. The internal fuel leak added extra fuel into the
air intake system.
I believe that in flight, leaning the mixture would over lean the fuel
injector fuel flow to compensate for the extra fuel in the intake system. Leaning
the engine in flight wasn't a problem.
However, taxiing on the ground at sea level with full rich mixture, the
engine would run rich enough that it would quit. (I think the Oakland California
Airport is near sea level.)
On the Cherokee Arrow at idle, the extra fuel would leak out of the throttle
body and into the airbox. It would then pour out of the airbox drain hole
into the bottom of the cowl. And out the bottom of the cowl onto the ground.
And that's how we found out why the engine quit as it was exiting the runway
after landing at Oakland Airport.
Jim Ayers
Message 21
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| Subject: | IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Hmmm... Interesting. My understanding is that the RSA fuel servo is a
pressure regulating device. It controls the amount of fuel being spewed
from the end of the constant flow injector nozzles by adjusting the
pressure in the fuel lines. The pressure is varied by the amount of air
flow through the servo body that is sensed by it. It's possible that
there is a leak in the fuel servo diaphragms, although this would result
in a rich mixture across the board. The easiest way to check for this is
to perform the coke bottle test. Place the disconnected end of each
nozzle line in a empty coke bottle. Start the electric fuel pump with
the mixture in idle cut off. Any fuel coming from the lines? If so, your
servo needs overhaul.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski
Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 Engine problem
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Interesting, woould leaning make a difference?
At 11:56 AM 3/29/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 03/29/2004 7:07:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>(Stuff Cut) I have this problem
>after landing and about half way taxing to the hanger it starts this
>miss/RPM fluxuation.
>
>Fuel Injector throttle bodies have internal fuel seals. When the seals
fail,
>raw fuel is dumped from the throttle body into the air intake manifold.
(No
>external leaks unless you have an intake manifold drain.)
>
>A symptom of this can be as you described above. A rough running
engine
>(overly rich mixture from the additional fuel entering at the throttle
body)
>at
>low power settings.
>
>Jim Ayers
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
==
==
==
==
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I have the same situation and the same problem.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
58 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: IO-360 Engine problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
> > I have the Bendix RSA injection system.
> >
> > Walt
> >
>
> If the problem is fuel boiling in the injector (or anything post servo)
> lines, I believe that there is an improvement available. It seems like
> I heard that there is some stronger spring that can be put into the
> distribution block in (some) Bendix systems. This functions to increase
> the pressures, thereby increasing the boiling temp. I would guess the
> idle mixture would have to be adjusted to compensate.
>
> Others more knowledgeable than I need to comment.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 447 hours
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Dont think this test would apply to AFP because the fuel flow never shuts
off 100%. To kill the engine they have a bypass valve which stops the flow
to the engine by returning the fuel back to a tank.
At 02:39 PM 3/29/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
>Hmmm... Interesting. My understanding is that the RSA fuel servo is a
>pressure regulating device. It controls the amount of fuel being spewed
>from the end of the constant flow injector nozzles by adjusting the
>pressure in the fuel lines. The pressure is varied by the amount of air
>flow through the servo body that is sensed by it. It's possible that
>there is a leak in the fuel servo diaphragms, although this would result
>in a rich mixture across the board. The easiest way to check for this is
>to perform the coke bottle test. Place the disconnected end of each
>nozzle line in a empty coke bottle. Start the electric fuel pump with
>the mixture in idle cut off. Any fuel coming from the lines? If so, your
>servo needs overhaul.
>
>Bruce
>www.glasair.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 Engine problem
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>Interesting, woould leaning make a difference?
>
>At 11:56 AM 3/29/04 -0500, you wrote:
>>--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
>>
>>In a message dated 03/29/2004 7:07:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>>bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>>(Stuff Cut) I have this problem
>>after landing and about half way taxing to the hanger it starts this
>>miss/RPM fluxuation.
>>
>>Fuel Injector throttle bodies have internal fuel seals. When the seals
>fail,
>>raw fuel is dumped from the throttle body into the air intake manifold.
>(No
>>external leaks unless you have an intake manifold drain.)
>>
>>A symptom of this can be as you described above. A rough running
>engine
>>(overly rich mixture from the additional fuel entering at the throttle
>body)
>>at
>>low power settings.
>>
>>Jim Ayers
>>
>>
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>==
>==
>==
>==
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: accident rate in experimentals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Ok, just read this again.......boy did that come across REALLY bad. My
apologies.
All the stupid people killed themselves already?
At 09:21 AM 3/29/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
><mstewart@iss.net>
>
>I just received a letter from EAA national as part of their tech
>counselor and Flight advisor program.
>
>
>They are very excited about some data put out by the faa regarding
>accident rates between homebuilts and GA. Answer:
>
>"The accident rate for homebuilts in the past 12 months was better than
>that of general aviation."
>
>
>I have absolutely no idea as to what semantics and data are being used
>here. But no matter how you slice it, this is a very interesting piece
>of data. I have to believe, based on my personal experience with RV's,
>that we are flying a generally safer plane that other homebuilts. Does
>anyone have some data on this?
>
>
>I realize this gets fairly complicated analyzing this stuff. I know you
>can dice any which way to say anything. But I would like to be able to
>say to friends and family with confidence 2 things:
>
>1. Experimentals are safer than other commercially available aircraft in
>General Aviation
>
>2. My particular plane is safer than other experimentals.
>
>
>Can I?
>
>
>Michael Stewart
>
>Do not archive
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: scratching the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Tom
Isn't that way spray-lat was invented, you brush the latex stuff on the
plexi, then work on it, it will keep the abbrasives away unless you
really push on it.
thomas a. sargent wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> Maybe everybody on the list already knows this, but some of the new
> folks might not. I found a way to scratch my canopy while I was sanding
> the edges.
>
> When you get to the shaping of the edge of the canopy (rounding it off),
> or any time you use coarse sand paper on the edge, be very careful how
> you remove the dust that accumulates. I made a lot of fairly deep
> scratches along the edge by wiping off the dust with my finger. It
> looks like, and mostly is, just plexiglass dust, but apparently there is
> some small amount of coarse grit that has popped off the sand paper
> mixed in with it. If you press your finger firmly against the plexi and
> wipe it along the edge, a few grains of abrasive will get caught between
> your finger and the plexi resulting in deep scratches roughly parallel
> to the edge. Use a brush. I figured it out too late.
>
> I am now paying for my sins by polishing these scratches out. Some are
> so deep that I have to start with fine sand paper (600 - 1000) and then
> use the Novus coarse scratch remover followed by the fine scratch
> remover. It works but it's a lot of labor. If anybody knows a way to
> mechanize this process, please do tell.
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 26
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| Subject: | scratching the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> I am now paying for my sins by polishing these scratches out.
> Some are
> so deep that I have to start with fine sand paper (600 -
> 1000) and then
> use the Novus coarse scratch remover followed by the fine scratch
> remover. It works but it's a lot of labor. If anybody knows
> a way to
> mechanize this process, please do tell.
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Tom, use a product called Scratch-Off. It has four compounds, and a
couple thingys to put on the electric drill. Only way to go. Aircraft
Spruce sells them. The other hand rub one they have is hopeless.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 447 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 27
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| Subject: | Dynon EMI noise problem is fixed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I've been waiting for Dynon's approval for almost a week to send this
message...we (Dynon, Mike Stewart, and myself) had done some noise filter
testing and I was keeping it under wraps until Doug Medema from Dynon gave
me the go-ahead to spill my guts. I can't speak for Mike (hopefully he'll
chime in), but here's my perspective...
Dynon has come out with "the fix." http://www.rvproject.com/dongle.html
It's an inline noise filter that plugs into the back of the EFIS, and your
wiring harness plugs into the dongle. It couldn't get any simpler than
that...and it couldn't be any easier to install. Dynon sent it to me last
weekend, and I tried it right away. It works great -- the noise issues I
was experiencing are gone when the dongle is in place.
The photos show the test dongle...Doug mentioned the production version will
be encased. I would direct your inquiries to Dynon for specifics.
I just wanted to share the good news that the Dynon EMI noise problem
appears to be ancient history! (NOTE: I am not affiliated with Dynon in any
way other than being a satisfied customer.)
I continue to be incredibly impressed by the customer support coming from
companies, like Dynon, Advanced Control Systems, and B&C. I feel lucky that
the homebuilt avionics/electronics industry is in a position to enable small
companies like this to survive and still manage to treat the customer like a
king.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 28
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| Subject: | IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> Interesting, woould leaning make a difference?
>
Presuming you are talking about leaning during ground operations, yes,
it would probably make it worse. The fuel flow would be less; hence,
more residence time for the fuel to get hot in the lines.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 447 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 29
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| Subject: | IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> Dont think this test would apply to AFP because the fuel flow
> never shuts off 100%. To kill the engine they have a bypass
> valve which stops the flow to the engine by returning the
> fuel back to a tank.
>
Not true. The AFP instructions are very clear about this: the engine
should kill if the mixture is pulled all the way back. The minimal fuel
that goes through the system, at idle throttle setting, when the engine
is not running, would probably not even run a lawn mower.
The purge valve's function is to 1) prevent post shutdown fuel from
percolating into the engine, and 2) allow one to pump cool fuel through
the servo and other plumbing before a hot start. It is a convenient way
to shut down the engine, also.
Some of these things we talk about on this list can be quite important,
and we need to avoid speculating. Someone might believe it without
verification and bad things could happen.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 447 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Hi Harry-
Vy after numerous climbs from 2000' shows 1200fpm max. Most runs were at
about 40-50 OAT and higher than average baros. This might not sound like much
compared to a 180 hp C.S., but as far as I'm concerned, it's going up plenty
quick. Once the pants are on, I'll let y'all know what the real deal is...
Overall, very happy with the prop! Still blows me away that I can climb out
solo, turn x-wind, and look down at the whole airport from pattern altitude!
Gawd what an airplane! 8-)
Mark do not archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
According to the archives, we went through this the first week of March.
Here are some selected quotes from my Airflow Performance Installation &
Service Manual:
MANUAL MIXTURE CONTROL, section 3-18 (page 20, revision B)
....When "ICO" is against the plastic stop, the fuel flow is shut off to the
engine. There is approximately 1.0 to 3.0 PPH leakage in this position....
Purge Valve Assembly, Background, Section 3-40. (page 30, revision B)
...Engines, which use the high pressure diaphragm fuel pump, experience
another problem, which influences the ease of restarting the engine. By
their design the diaphragm fuel pump acts like an accumulator when the
engine is shut down. This keeps the fuel pressure on the fuel controller,
and leakage in the idle cut off circuit of the fuel controller will allow
the fuel to bleed off into the engine. THIS CAN CAUSE RUN ON IN IDLE CUT
OFF AND FLOODING OF THE ENGINE INITIALLY AFTER SHUT DOWN. (Emphasis added)
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THE PURGE VALVE, section 5.5 (page 44 & 45,
Revision C)
5.5. The following instructions are recommended procedures for operating
engines with engine driven fuel pumps ...
ENGINE SHUTDOWN
* Bring engine to idle speed
* Leave mixture control "FULL RICH"
* Put purge valve control in to "OFF" position
Terry
RV-8A #80729 wiring
Seattle
>
> Dont think this test would apply to AFP because the fuel flow
> never shuts off 100%. To kill the engine they have a bypass
> valve which stops the flow to the engine by returning the
> fuel back to a tank.
>
Not true. The AFP instructions are very clear about this: the engine
should kill if the mixture is pulled all the way back. The minimal fuel
that goes through the system, at idle throttle setting, when the engine
is not running, would probably not even run a lawn mower.
The purge valve's function is to 1) prevent post shutdown fuel from
percolating into the engine, and 2) allow one to pump cool fuel through
the servo and other plumbing before a hot start. It is a convenient way
to shut down the engine, also.
Some of these things we talk about on this list can be quite important,
and we need to avoid speculating. Someone might believe it without
verification and bad things could happen.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> Dont think this test would apply to AFP because the fuel flow
> never shuts off 100%. To kill the engine they have a bypass
> valve which stops the flow to the engine by returning the
> fuel back to a tank.
>
Not true. The AFP instructions are very clear about this: the engine
should kill if the mixture is pulled all the way back. The minimal fuel
that goes through the system, at idle throttle setting, when the engine
is not running, would probably not even run a lawn mower.
The purge valve's function is to 1) prevent post shutdown fuel from
percolating into the engine, and 2) allow one to pump cool fuel through
the servo and other plumbing before a hot start. It is a convenient way
to shut down the engine, also.
Some of these things we talk about on this list can be quite important,
and we need to avoid speculating. Someone might believe it without
verification and bad things could happen.
Alex Peterson
Message 32
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| Subject: | IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> According to the archives, we went through this the first
> week of March. Here are some selected quotes from my Airflow
> Performance Installation & Service Manual:
>
> MANUAL MIXTURE CONTROL, section 3-18 (page 20, revision B)
> ....When "ICO" is against the plastic stop, the fuel flow is
> shut off to the engine. There is approximately 1.0 to 3.0
> PPH leakage in this position....
>
> Purge Valve Assembly, Background, Section 3-40. (page 30,
> revision B) ...Engines, which use the high pressure diaphragm
> fuel pump, experience another problem, which influences the
> ease of restarting the engine. By their design the diaphragm
> fuel pump acts like an accumulator when the engine is shut
> down. This keeps the fuel pressure on the fuel controller,
> and leakage in the idle cut off circuit of the fuel
> controller will allow the fuel to bleed off into the engine.
> THIS CAN CAUSE RUN ON IN IDLE CUT OFF AND FLOODING OF THE
> ENGINE INITIALLY AFTER SHUT DOWN. (Emphasis added)
>
> OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THE PURGE VALVE, section 5.5
> (page 44 & 45, Revision C)
>
> 5.5. The following instructions are recommended procedures
> for operating engines with engine driven fuel pumps ...
> ENGINE SHUTDOWN
> * Bring engine to idle speed
> * Leave mixture control "FULL RICH"
> * Put purge valve control in to "OFF" position
>
> Terry
>
Terry, I stand corrected, at least for the exact wording of the AFP
manual. However, it is impossible to get an engine to idle with only
0.5 gph (3pph). So, any engine that continues to run with the mixture
in idle cut off needs adjustment.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 447 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 33
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| Subject: | Optional Side Step question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
I just spent the better part of this week installing the optional steps for my
7A and I'm impressed at how sturdy these things turned out. I'm also glad I took
the time to do it. I ran in to a small problem though... I had to grind a small
amount of the weld on one of the steps so the rivet would sit flush.
Will this weaken the weld and cause the step to crack at the weld where I did the
grinding? I can send a pic if anyone cares to see it.
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
RV-7A QB in progress
Sammamish, WA.
Message 34
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| Subject: | Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Can anyone using Van's manual elevator trim cable please confirm the following:
When the trim tab knob is screwed IN (clockwise) the nose of the plane will go
UP, when the knob is screwed counter-clockwise.... the nose of the plane will
go DOWN.
I had the Fuel Selector Plate (F-983A) engraved as per Van's Tech Rep (knob screwed
IN/clockwise, nose down.... counter-clockwise, nose goes up) and I think
this is backwards!
Maybe I'm losing my mind....
Thanks,
Jack
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Jack Lockamy wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
>
>Can anyone using Van's manual elevator trim cable please confirm the following:
>
>When the trim tab knob is screwed IN (clockwise) the nose of the plane will go
UP, when the knob is screwed counter-clockwise.... the nose of the plane will
go DOWN.
>
>I had the Fuel Selector Plate (F-983A) engraved as per Van's Tech Rep (knob screwed
IN/clockwise, nose down.... counter-clockwise, nose goes up) and I think
this is backwards!
>
>Maybe I'm losing my mind....
>
>Thanks,
>Jack
>
>
>
Nope you had it engraved right... in -down out-up
Jerry
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Jack Lockamy wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
>
> Can anyone using Van's manual elevator trim cable please confirm the
> following:
>
> When the trim tab knob is screwed IN (clockwise) the nose of the
> plane will go UP, when the knob is screwed counter-clockwise.... the
> nose of the plane will go DOWN.
Nope. Clockwise (in) is nose down. Works the same direction as the
control stick.
Sam Buchanan
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Optional Side Step question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 07:59 PM 3/29/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
>I just spent the better part of this week installing the optional steps
>for my 7A and I'm impressed at how sturdy these things turned out. I'm
>also glad I took the time to do it. I ran in to a small problem though...
>I had to grind a small amount of the weld on one of the steps so the rivet
>would sit flush.
>
>Will this weaken the weld and cause the step to crack at the weld where I
>did the grinding? I can send a pic if anyone cares to see it.
Yes. After about 1000 hours cracks will appear and you can grin while
repairing them. If you haven't built several other RV's by then.
Move on towards the test phase!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Optional Side Step question |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Karie, a weld is only as strong as the thickness of the metal adjacent
to the weld. As an illustration (well a poor one is better than none!)
let's say that you had 100% penetration .... the weld puddle went all
the way to the lower surface.... and the thickness of the weld was twice
the thickness of the initial material. the weld will only be as strong
as the initial material ..... and if you ground off the excess weld
material .... it would still be as strong. Proper dressing of the
ground weld is important as stress cracks can occur along the 'grinding
marks'. Best of luck!
Linn
Karie Daniel wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
>I just spent the better part of this week installing the optional steps for my
7A and I'm impressed at how sturdy these things turned out. I'm also glad I took
the time to do it. I ran in to a small problem though... I had to grind a
small amount of the weld on one of the steps so the rivet would sit flush.
>
>Will this weaken the weld and cause the step to crack at the weld where I did
the grinding? I can send a pic if anyone cares to see it.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Karie Daniel
>RV-7A QB in progress
>Sammamish, WA.
>
>
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I just installed my manual elev trim cable in my RV-6. When turn knob CW it
goes IN and extends TAB UP which applies force to move ELEVATOR DOWN, which
LOWERS NOSE.
I was waiting to get a picture to send before making this announcement, but
here it is: I and some other folks like the "Cessna Trim Wheel"
ergonomics - roll wheel fwd, nose goes down. I used the std Van's trim
cable, secured it to front of seat/floor pan F-639? that slopes up/fwd and
hangs over spar & F-604. The knob is about on the centerline of the
fuselage, for access by pilot and passenger. The cable then runs (out in
the open) left along spar/F-604 and curves aft along pilot side of fuselage,
aft beside seat back into "tunnel" through slot cut in tunnel cover and
along side elevator push tube through the std hole for the cable, and on, as
per plans.
- This orients the Van's knob to work just like the Cessna "wheel" -
roll it fwd for nose down.
I have Autocad .dwg drawings of the two brackets and their location on
F-639.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
>
> Can anyone using Van's manual elevator trim cable please confirm the
following:
>
> When the trim tab knob is screwed IN (clockwise) the nose of the plane
will go UP, when the knob is screwed counter-clockwise.... the nose of the
plane will go DOWN.
>
> I had the Fuel Selector Plate (F-983A) engraved as per Van's Tech Rep
(knob screwed IN/clockwise, nose down.... counter-clockwise, nose goes up)
and I think this is backwards!
>
> Maybe I'm losing my mind....
>
> Thanks,
> Jack
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Dynon EMI noise problem is fixed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Dan,
Any word if they will be sending these out to all their customers?
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Dynon EMI noise problem is fixed
>Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 17:14:47 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I've been waiting for Dynon's approval for almost a week to send this
>message...we (Dynon, Mike Stewart, and myself) had done some noise filter
>testing and I was keeping it under wraps until Doug Medema from Dynon gave
>me the go-ahead to spill my guts. I can't speak for Mike (hopefully he'll
>chime in), but here's my perspective...
>
>Dynon has come out with "the fix." http://www.rvproject.com/dongle.html
>It's an inline noise filter that plugs into the back of the EFIS, and your
>wiring harness plugs into the dongle. It couldn't get any simpler than
>that...and it couldn't be any easier to install. Dynon sent it to me last
>weekend, and I tried it right away. It works great -- the noise issues I
>was experiencing are gone when the dongle is in place.
>
>The photos show the test dongle...Doug mentioned the production version
>will
>be encased. I would direct your inquiries to Dynon for specifics.
>
>I just wanted to share the good news that the Dynon EMI noise problem
>appears to be ancient history! (NOTE: I am not affiliated with Dynon in
>any
>way other than being a satisfied customer.)
>
>I continue to be incredibly impressed by the customer support coming from
>companies, like Dynon, Advanced Control Systems, and B&C. I feel lucky
>that
>the homebuilt avionics/electronics industry is in a position to enable
>small
>companies like this to survive and still manage to treat the customer like
>a
>king.
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
http://moneycentral.msn.com/tax/home.asp
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon EMI noise problem is fixed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Any word if they will be sending these out to all their customers?
I believe they're going to charge something on the order of $10 for the
dongle. I have to assume that this nominal fee is to prevent *every*
customer from just saying "gimme" even if they don't actually have a noise
issue to begin with.
do not archive
)_( Dan
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