Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:55 AM - Re: Manual Elevator Trim (Ed Anderson)
2. 04:58 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 41 Msgs - 03/29/04 (DFaile@aol.com)
3. 05:08 AM - Re: used MT prop for sale (John Huft)
4. 05:11 AM - Re: Manual Elevator Trim (RV6 Flyer)
5. 06:10 AM - Re: Dynon EMI noise problem is fixed (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
6. 06:10 AM - Re: Dynon EMI noise problem is fixed (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
7. 06:19 AM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (Scott Bilinski)
8. 06:23 AM - Re: IO-360 Engine problem (Scott Bilinski)
9. 06:35 AM - RV6A Project For Sale (Gene Gottschalk)
10. 07:12 AM - bondo (G B)
11. 07:24 AM - Re: Manual Elevator Trim (Lockamy, Jack L)
12. 07:35 AM - Proseal (Frederick Oldenburg)
13. 07:44 AM - Re: Canopy Cutting (Crosley, Rich)
14. 07:51 AM - Re: Was bondo, now Plastic Planes (C. Rabaut)
15. 08:23 AM - Re: Proseal (Trainnut01@aol.com)
16. 08:29 AM - Re: Proseal (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
17. 08:43 AM - Re: Proseal (Evan and Megan Johnson)
18. 08:45 AM - Re: Was bondo, now Plastic Planes (G B)
19. 12:52 PM - Pitot tube bracket (Evan and Megan Johnson)
20. 01:03 PM - Dynon (Wheeler North)
21. 01:31 PM - Security (Wheeler North)
22. 01:48 PM - Re: Security (C. Rabaut)
23. 02:03 PM - CNC Panel cutting (Tommy Walker)
24. 02:15 PM - Re: Security (Scott Bilinski)
25. 02:29 PM - Re: Dynon (Jim Jewell)
26. 02:29 PM - Re: RV-7 Props (Kevin Horton)
27. 02:32 PM - Re: Security (JOHN STARN)
28. 02:43 PM - Re: CNC Panel cutting (Darwin N. Barrie)
29. 02:49 PM - Re: Pitot tube bracket (Jim Jewell)
30. 02:58 PM - Re: Dynon (LarryRobertHelming)
31. 03:05 PM - Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? (Tommy Norman)
32. 03:10 PM - Re: Security (Laird Owens)
33. 03:18 PM - Re: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? (Brian Denk)
34. 03:27 PM - Re: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? (Scott Bilinski)
35. 03:36 PM - Re: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? (C. Rabaut)
36. 03:47 PM - Re: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? (Jim Jewell)
37. 03:59 PM - Re: CNC Panel cutting (Tim Coldenhoff)
38. 04:07 PM - K&N air filter E-3450 deal(?) (Mark Todd)
39. 04:14 PM - Re: Dynon (LarryRobertHelming)
40. 04:20 PM - Re: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? (Jim Sears)
41. 04:25 PM - Re: Security (RV6 Flyer)
42. 04:27 PM - Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws? (Dan DeNeal)
43. 04:30 PM - Re: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
44. 04:42 PM - Re: CNC Panel cutting (Terry Watson)
45. 04:56 PM - Re: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? (Richard Scott)
46. 05:14 PM - Exhaust Ball Joints (Harvey Sigmon)
47. 05:17 PM - Re: Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws? (Robert E. Lynch)
48. 05:58 PM - A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL (Garey Wittich)
49. 06:23 PM - Re: Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws? (Mauri Morin)
50. 07:05 PM - Re: Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws? (RV6 Flyer)
51. 07:14 PM - "Warm" master relay (N223RV@aol.com)
52. 07:25 PM - Goodyear Flight Custom III Tires (N223RV@aol.com)
53. 07:26 PM - [ H.Ivan Haecker ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
54. 08:01 PM - Re: Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws? (HCRV6@aol.com)
55. 08:25 PM - Re: Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws? (Peruccaj@aol.com)
56. 08:44 PM - Re: CNC Panel cutting (Bobby Hester)
57. 08:50 PM - Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix (Jim and Bev Cone)
58. 08:58 PM - Re: "Warm" master relay (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
59. 09:15 PM - Re: Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws? (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Your second sentence correctly reflects the operation of the elevator trim
knob. The trim cable is attached to the underside of the trim tab.
Therefore, if you push on the knob that action "lengthens" the cable or
pushes on the underside of the trim tab forcing the trim tab upward. The
air stream force on the trim tab (while it is up) forces the elevator down.
Of course, when the elevator goes down, the tail plane goes up and the nose
of the aircraft points downward. The opposite happens when the knob is
pulled.
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
>
> Can anyone using Van's manual elevator trim cable please confirm the
following:
>
> When the trim tab knob is screwed IN (clockwise) the nose of the plane
will go UP, when the knob is screwed counter-clockwise.... the nose of the
plane will go DOWN.
>
> I had the Fuel Selector Plate (F-983A) engraved as per Van's Tech Rep
(knob screwed IN/clockwise, nose down.... counter-clockwise, nose goes up)
and I think this is backwards!
>
> Maybe I'm losing my mind....
>
> Thanks,
> Jack
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 41 Msgs - 03/29/04 |
--> RV-List message posted by: DFaile@aol.com
I am looking for information on the Schroth Restraint System seat belts. They
used to be available through Morris Technologies, Inc.
Can somebody please let me know who is now repping these seat belts for the
RV's.
A response, off list, to DFaile@aol.com is acceptable.
Thanks,
david faile
fairfield ct
rv6
Message 3
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| Subject: | used MT prop for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
Jim, you are correct, it is the -59 blade, and I did buy it from Van's.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: used MT prop for sale
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
In a message dated 03/29/2004 5:39:38 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv8tor@lazy8.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
Hi All
I have for sale a 3-blade MT prop, MTV-12-B-183. This is the hydraulic
constant-speed version, 72" dia. Works with McCauley or Woodward governors.
Can you provide the full number?
It should be MTV-12-B/183-?.
The last number is the specific blade design number.
Van's Aircraft advertises the MTV-12-B/183-59 propeller for the Lycoming 360
engine. That may be the full number if you purchased it from Van's
Aircraft.
One of my customers has the MTV-12-B/183-59d propeller. The "d" indicates a
specific modification to the -59 blade design.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
That is backwards for elevator trim. Clockwise is IN or forward and just
like the stick, is nose DOWN. Out is back or CCW is up just like the stick.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,449 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Manual Elevator Trim
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Can anyone using Van's manual elevator trim cable please confirm the
following:
When the trim tab knob is screwed IN (clockwise) the nose of the plane will
go UP, when the knob is screwed counter-clockwise.... the nose of the plane
will go DOWN.
I had the Fuel Selector Plate (F-983A) engraved as per Van's Tech Rep (knob
screwed IN/clockwise, nose down.... counter-clockwise, nose goes up) and I
think this is backwards!
Maybe I'm losing my mind....
Thanks,
Jack
Message 5
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| Subject: | Dynon EMI noise problem is fixed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Yes Mike will chime in. Here is my update to Doug. Bottom line, my noise is gone.
========
Doug,
Preliminary results show you have struck gold.
Flew 2 hours yesterday, and ran through my test routine on the ground and only
the barest minimum of noise can now be detected.
I did run " braid from a stud post on the unit to a good ground source.
Did not test whether or not that had any effect. Next time I am in there I will
remove it and see if there is any difference.
But, looks like you have a real good solution for me.
I did try both shielded and non-shielded to the remote compass and there was no
difference(with the new dongle in place). Also I ran the power from the dynon
back to the main buss and that too had no effect(with the dongle in place). So
here are my findings.
Before filter:
Shielding wire to compass helped
Moving to another power buss helped
After filter:
Going back to main buss had no effect
Shielded or non shielded also had no effect
Conclusion: EMI filter working very well. No need to shield wire to compass or
run power from another buss
While sitting quietly on the ramp, engine off, and pulling squelch on a com, and
turning Dynon on and off. Only the slightest change in white noise can be observerd.
Mostly on the lower 121-118 freq range. That's real good news.
So, when you are ready, ill let others know my results.
Good work Doug.
==========
Mike Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: RV-List: Dynon EMI noise problem is fixed
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I've been waiting for Dynon's approval for almost a week to send this
message...we (Dynon, Mike Stewart, and myself) had done some noise filter
testing and I was keeping it under wraps until Doug Medema from Dynon gave
me the go-ahead to spill my guts. I can't speak for Mike (hopefully he'll
chime in), but here's my perspective...
Dynon has come out with "the fix." http://www.rvproject.com/dongle.html
It's an inline noise filter that plugs into the back of the EFIS, and your
wiring harness plugs into the dongle. It couldn't get any simpler than
that...and it couldn't be any easier to install. Dynon sent it to me last
weekend, and I tried it right away. It works great -- the noise issues I
was experiencing are gone when the dongle is in place.
The photos show the test dongle...Doug mentioned the production version will
be encased. I would direct your inquiries to Dynon for specifics.
I just wanted to share the good news that the Dynon EMI noise problem
appears to be ancient history! (NOTE: I am not affiliated with Dynon in any
way other than being a satisfied customer.)
I continue to be incredibly impressed by the customer support coming from
companies, like Dynon, Advanced Control Systems, and B&C. I feel lucky that
the homebuilt avionics/electronics industry is in a position to enable small
companies like this to survive and still manage to treat the customer like a
king.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Dynon EMI noise problem is fixed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
That is my understanding also.
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon EMI noise problem is fixed
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Any word if they will be sending these out to all their customers?
I believe they're going to charge something on the order of $10 for the
dongle. I have to assume that this nominal fee is to prevent *every*
customer from just saying "gimme" even if they don't actually have a
noise
issue to begin with.
do not archive
)_( Dan
==
==
==
==
Message 7
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| Subject: | IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>Not true. The AFP instructions are very clear about this: the engine
>should kill if the mixture is pulled all the way back. The minimal fuel
>that goes through the system, at idle throttle setting, when the engine
>is not running, would probably not even run a lawn mower.
Interesting when I called them they told me NOT to stop the engine this way
because it will not be clean stoppage of the fuel, and the engine may bump
and stumble. Use the purge/bypass valve only. Although I guess your right
the engine will still stop this way but boy does it bump and stumble. I
also have dual EI I wonder if this makes it worse by being able to ignite a
mixture that mags would have trouble with?
My system is 1 1/2 years old maybe our manuals are different? If I remember
I will read that part again.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 8
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| Subject: | IO-360 Engine problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
There we go, thanks.
Do not archive
At 06:36 PM 3/29/04 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
>According to the archives, we went through this the first week of March.
>Here are some selected quotes from my Airflow Performance Installation &
>Service Manual:
>
>MANUAL MIXTURE CONTROL, section 3-18 (page 20, revision B)
>....When "ICO" is against the plastic stop, the fuel flow is shut off to the
>engine. There is approximately 1.0 to 3.0 PPH leakage in this position....
>
>Purge Valve Assembly, Background, Section 3-40. (page 30, revision B)
>...Engines, which use the high pressure diaphragm fuel pump, experience
>another problem, which influences the ease of restarting the engine. By
>their design the diaphragm fuel pump acts like an accumulator when the
>engine is shut down. This keeps the fuel pressure on the fuel controller,
>and leakage in the idle cut off circuit of the fuel controller will allow
>the fuel to bleed off into the engine. THIS CAN CAUSE RUN ON IN IDLE CUT
>OFF AND FLOODING OF THE ENGINE INITIALLY AFTER SHUT DOWN. (Emphasis added)
>
>OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THE PURGE VALVE, section 5.5 (page 44 & 45,
>Revision C)
>
>5.5. The following instructions are recommended procedures for operating
>engines with engine driven fuel pumps ...
>ENGINE SHUTDOWN
>* Bring engine to idle speed
>* Leave mixture control "FULL RICH"
>* Put purge valve control in to "OFF" position
>
>Terry
>RV-8A #80729 wiring
>Seattle
>
>
>>
>> Dont think this test would apply to AFP because the fuel flow
>> never shuts off 100%. To kill the engine they have a bypass
>> valve which stops the flow to the engine by returning the
>> fuel back to a tank.
>>
>
>Not true. The AFP instructions are very clear about this: the engine
>should kill if the mixture is pulled all the way back. The minimal fuel
>that goes through the system, at idle throttle setting, when the engine
>is not running, would probably not even run a lawn mower.
>
>The purge valve's function is to 1) prevent post shutdown fuel from
>percolating into the engine, and 2) allow one to pump cool fuel through
>the servo and other plumbing before a hot start. It is a convenient way
>to shut down the engine, also.
>
>Some of these things we talk about on this list can be quite important,
>and we need to avoid speculating. Someone might believe it without
>verification and bad things could happen.
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
>>
>> Dont think this test would apply to AFP because the fuel flow
>> never shuts off 100%. To kill the engine they have a bypass
>> valve which stops the flow to the engine by returning the
>> fuel back to a tank.
>>
>
>Not true. The AFP instructions are very clear about this: the engine
>should kill if the mixture is pulled all the way back. The minimal fuel
>that goes through the system, at idle throttle setting, when the engine
>is not running, would probably not even run a lawn mower.
>
>The purge valve's function is to 1) prevent post shutdown fuel from
>percolating into the engine, and 2) allow one to pump cool fuel through
>the servo and other plumbing before a hot start. It is a convenient way
>to shut down the engine, also.
>
>Some of these things we talk about on this list can be quite important,
>and we need to avoid speculating. Someone might believe it without
>verification and bad things could happen.
>
>Alex Peterson
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 9
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| Subject: | RV6A Project For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gene Gottschalk <geneg@sled.gsfc.nasa.gov>
I have an RV6A project for sale. The empanage is done. The left wing is
done. The right wing is done except for the main skins and aileron. The
fuselage is in the jig and ready for the wing attachment and gear drilling
to be turned over and the fuselage top started. It includes the finishing
kit and every thing needed to finish except the firewall forward and
radios. It includes almost every option Van's offers.
Please contact me back channel if interested. It is located in the
Baltimore/Washing DC area.
Contact me at:
geneg@sled.gsfc.nasa.gov
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: G B <microsys@alltel.net>
Hello,
I have read that Bondo will absorb moisture, and, if true, would be a
poor filler to use
on airplanes. As one who has built a LongEz as well, I would prefer
using dry micro made with
epoxy, or even using phenolic bubbles with epoxy instead,
Glen
RV9 tail
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Lockamy, Jack L" <jack.lockamy@navy.mil>
Thanks David, Jerry S., and Sam B. for clearing this up for me....
Jack
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
I'm about to start my rudder. I understand that you are supposed to use a sealant
(usually proseal) on the trailing edge. I noticed that there are two different
stock numbers for this in the Spruce catalog, one for a pint and one for a
quart. I have never used this stuff before. Will a pint be enough for just the
rudder?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ps890.php
Thanks,
Fred
Fred Oldenburg
N270S (Reserved) RV-7A - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Another great canopy cutting method is to use a Roto-Zip tool with a 1/4"
mandrel and a cutting wheel. A cutting wheel a little thicker than Van's
works best, Van's wheel tends to wobble at high RPM's. Also works great on
fiberglass.
Rich Crosley
RV-8, baffles and cowl
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Was bondo, now Plastic Planes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Glen,
I've got a friend starting to build a Long-Ez (I know, I know...
"Friends don't let friends build plastic planes"). Got any recommendations
for a list or chat group he can go to for support/camaraderie, he's stuck
out in the middle of nowhere (Barstow area)? Thanks,
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: G B <microsys@alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: bondo
> --> RV-List message posted by: G B <microsys@alltel.net>
>
> Hello,
>
> I have read that Bondo will absorb moisture, and, if true, would be a
> poor filler to use
> on airplanes. As one who has built a LongEz as well, I would prefer
> using dry micro made with
> epoxy, or even using phenolic bubbles with epoxy instead,
>
> Glen
> RV9 tail
>
>
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
Fred
That sealer is to help get at straight trailing edge. If you drill carefully
and install the rivets from alternating sides you don't need it. A pint is
enough but some of those pints come in tubes that require mixing the entire thing
all at once.
Carroll Jernigan
7A Wings
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 3/30/04 10:35:57 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
foldenburg@earthlink.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>
>
> I'm about to start my rudder. I understand that you are supposed to use a
> sealant (usually proseal) on the trailing edge. I noticed that there are two
> different stock numbers for this in the Spruce catalog, one for a pint and one
> for a quart. I have never used this stuff before. Will a pint be enough for
> just the rudder?
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ps890.php
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
>
Fred,
A pint will be way, way more than enough.
Based on some postings on this list though, I just built my replacement RV-9
rudder and didn't use any sealer. The trick is to start in the center and
alternate sides that the shop head goes on.
I got a "little wavy" trailing edge but it is almost perfectly straight on
the average. Maybe I didn't countersink the EX piece enough, or did something
else wrong, but it is acceptable, I think. I don't think Pro Seal would have
helped. I did use a blob of blue RTV between the stiffeners at the rear though
-- to avoid cracking that has been a problem on RV-6s.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
FYI....It's cheaper through Vans.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frederick Oldenburg" <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Proseal
> --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg
<foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>
> I'm about to start my rudder. I understand that you are supposed to use a
sealant (usually proseal) on the trailing edge. I noticed that there are two
different stock numbers for this in the Spruce catalog, one for a pint and
one for a quart. I have never used this stuff before. Will a pint be enough
for just the rudder?
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ps890.php
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
>
> Fred Oldenburg
> N270S (Reserved) RV-7A - Empennage
> http://www.rv.oldsack.com
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Was bondo, now Plastic Planes |
--> RV-List message posted by: G B <microsys@alltel.net>
Chuck,
Yes, I believe the list is canard-aviators@yahoogroups.com
It is one I used to subscribe to. I am up to the point of adding the tops
to my fuel tanks, which is the last construction step. Then it is
filling and sanding,
primer, electrical, instruments and wiring. I have no engine for it either.
I decided recently that I could not ignore the ease of sale, and resale
value of the RV series.
I could spend $30k on the longez and only get 30k back out of it. Where
I could make money
on the RV9!
Glen
C. Rabaut wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
>Glen,
>
> I've got a friend starting to build a Long-Ez (I know, I know...
>"Friends don't let friends build plastic planes"). Got any recommendations
>for a list or chat group he can go to for support/camaraderie, he's stuck
>out in the middle of nowhere (Barstow area)? Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: G B <microsys@alltel.net>
>To: RV List <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: bondo
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: G B <microsys@alltel.net>
>>
>>Hello,
>>
>>I have read that Bondo will absorb moisture, and, if true, would be a
>>poor filler to use
>>on airplanes. As one who has built a LongEz as well, I would prefer
>>using dry micro made with
>>epoxy, or even using phenolic bubbles with epoxy instead,
>>
>>Glen
>>RV9 tail
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Pitot tube bracket |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Thanks to all who participated in the flush pitot tube conversation. I had a friend
give me a regular old stick out in the wind heated pitot so I'm going to
use it (AN 5812 type). I dont however have a pitot bracket to mount it with. The
instructions in the box say to build one using streamline tubing (2.023 X .857
X .049 wall) Spruce has it but the minimum cut charge is more money than the
steel. Anybody out there have some of this stuff you would be willing to part
with? I need about 6 inches or so. If not I will probably just buy a Gretz
kit and be done with it. I wonder if my wife would notice if I cut a chunk out
of the middle of her bike frame? Hmmmmm.....
Thanks again ....Evan
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
I want to play with Dynon's dongle...
Oops, did I say that...
do not archive
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
At our airport they've started a new security procedure,
After landing one must prove they still have the same number of passengers
that one took off with.
It seems an old guy purchased a biplane ride for his 88th birthday and
jumped out on downwind to base turn.
It wouldn't have been so bad but he got sliced and diced on some power wires
and then landed in a pizza parlor's parking lot. (I won't be eating there
again)
there has to be a better way of doing one's self in...
do not archive
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
" there has to be a better way of doing one's self in..."
...are you sure the pilot wasn't tryin' to give the ol' gent a thrill and
experienced a seat belt mechanism failure?
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Security
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> At our airport they've started a new security procedure,
>
> After landing one must prove they still have the same number of passengers
> that one took off with.
>
> It seems an old guy purchased a biplane ride for his 88th birthday and
> jumped out on downwind to base turn.
>
> It wouldn't have been so bad but he got sliced and diced on some power
wires
> and then landed in a pizza parlor's parking lot. (I won't be eating there
> again)
>
> there has to be a better way of doing one's self in...
>
> do not archive
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | CNC Panel cutting |
Seal-Send-Time: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 16:08:36 -0600
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
Two or three weeks ago there was a thread on the list about a fellow who, from
a "panel builder" file, would auto-cad a full scale panel drawing. Then after
the builder was satisfied he would CNC cut your panel.
Does anyone have information on how to contact this fellow?
Tommy Walker
6A, Ridgetop, TN
Do Not Archive
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
This happened at my home airport SEE in San Diego. The way I understand it
the pilot was actually fighting with the guy to keep him in the plane. They
were either on base or final for landing. I here he was just diagnosed with
a disease that will make him blind soon. Pretty selfish though, the way I
heard it his son purchased the ride for him. So both the son and the pilot
will be having nightmares. If anyone has the exact details........
At 01:50 PM 3/30/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
>" there has to be a better way of doing one's self in..."
>
>...are you sure the pilot wasn't tryin' to give the ol' gent a thrill and
>experienced a seat belt mechanism failure?
>
>do not archive
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Security
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>>
>> At our airport they've started a new security procedure,
>>
>> After landing one must prove they still have the same number of passengers
>> that one took off with.
>>
>> It seems an old guy purchased a biplane ride for his 88th birthday and
>> jumped out on downwind to base turn.
>>
>> It wouldn't have been so bad but he got sliced and diced on some power
>wires
>> and then landed in a pizza parlor's parking lot. (I won't be eating there
>> again)
>>
>> there has to be a better way of doing one's self in...
>>
>> do not archive
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Wheeler,
I'm hoping the production unit feeds straight out of the instruments back
rather than turning a right angle. My instrument panel is removable and is
set up to have the service loops run straight to the instrument's back.
I would also like to play with their dongle but I don't like the angle of
its dangle. {[g-)!!
Jim in Kelowna do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> I want to play with Dynon's dongle...
>
> Oops, did I say that...
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>Hi Harry-
>
>Vy after numerous climbs from 2000' shows 1200fpm max. Most runs were at
>about 40-50 OAT and higher than average baros. This might not sound like much
>compared to a 180 hp C.S., but as far as I'm concerned, it's going up plenty
>quick. Once the pants are on, I'll let y'all know what the real deal is...
>
>Overall, very happy with the prop! Still blows me away that I can climb out
>solo, turn x-wind, and look down at the whole airport from pattern altitude!
>Gawd what an airplane! 8-)
>
>Mark
Mark,
Are you using the VSI to figure out your rate of climb, or are you
using the altimeter and stop watch?
VSIs may have large errors, so it is much more accurate to use the
altimeter and stop watch.
What rpm are you getting at Vy?
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 27
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
From the news report I heard they were on final and the pilot tried to reach
forward and keep the old gentleman from jumping, while flying the plane. Old
guy fought him off. BUT being a cynic on news reports ya never know. KABONG
Do Not Archive. (GBA) 8*)
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Security
> " there has to be a better way of doing one's self in..."
>
> ...are you sure the pilot wasn't tryin' to give the ol' gent a thrill and
> experienced a seat belt mechanism failure?
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: CNC Panel cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Contact Ross at www.experimentalair.com
I have just sent my panel off to be cut. He will work with you till it is
correct. Great guy. For roughly <$200 you can have your panel laid out
perfectly and cut for you. Well worth the bucks.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: CNC Panel cutting
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
>
> Two or three weeks ago there was a thread on the list about a fellow who,
from a "panel builder" file, would auto-cad a full scale panel drawing. Then
after the builder was satisfied he would CNC cut your panel.
>
> Does anyone have information on how to contact this fellow?
>
> Tommy Walker
> 6A, Ridgetop, TN
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube bracket |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello Evan,
I made mine with .032 aluminum scrap and shaped it to conform to the Cessna
pitot that I have. A bit of welding done by an associate to close the
tapered end and add the flush mount bracket, cost me a sandwich and coffee.
To get an idea of how flimsy the FAA approved Cessna mount is, lightly grasp
one that is mounted and operational (with owner permission of course) and
give it a wiggle. For the higher speed aircraft somewhat stronger than that
will be required. In comparison to Cessna mine with doublers is on there!!
almost suitable for tie down.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----,
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Subject: RV-List: Pitot tube bracket
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> Thanks to all who participated in the flush pitot tube conversation. I had
a friend give me a regular old stick out in the wind heated pitot so I'm
going to use it (AN 5812 type). I dont however have a pitot bracket to mount
it with. The instructions in the box say to build one using streamline
tubing (2.023 X .857 X .049 wall) Spruce has it but the minimum cut charge
is more money than the steel. Anybody out there have some of this stuff you
would be willing to part with? I need about 6 inches or so. If not I will
probably just buy a Gretz kit and be done with it. I wonder if my wife would
notice if I cut a chunk out of the middle of her bike frame? Hmmmmm.....
>
> Thanks again ....Evan
>
>
Message 30
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
It will cost you ten bucks to get it and the cable is 10' long. Maybe not a
long enough cable for anyone having the remote compass toward the back of
the plane unless mounting the probe under the HS is an option.
Available starting 4-15-04.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp
TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
JeffRose Flightline Interiors
Firewall Forward, Wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> I want to play with Dynon's dongle...
>
> Oops, did I say that...
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Norman" <tie-norman@comcast.net>
Several builders have suggested that you don't need to finish drill and
deburr holes that came pre-punched from Vans; just dimple and go (unless
you have to match-drill through the hole). I wanted to get some
opinions from the group before I start setting rivets on my -10 VS. I
know this would save a great deal of time but I am leaning towards the
long route. All opinions appreciated.
Thanks,
Tommy
Message 32
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
Story is at:
http://www.cnn.com/2004/US/West/03/30/fatal.jump.ap/index.html
do not archive
>--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
>" there has to be a better way of doing one's self in..."
>
>...are you sure the pilot wasn't tryin' to give the ol' gent a thrill and
>experienced a seat belt mechanism failure?
>
>do not archive
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Security
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>>
>> At our airport they've started a new security procedure,
>>
>> After landing one must prove they still have the same number of passengers
>> that one took off with.
>>
>> It seems an old guy purchased a biplane ride for his 88th birthday and
>> jumped out on downwind to base turn.
>>
>> It wouldn't have been so bad but he got sliced and diced on some power
>wires
>> and then landed in a pizza parlor's parking lot. (I won't be eating there
>> again)
>>
>> there has to be a better way of doing one's self in...
>>
>> do not archive
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Norman" <tie-norman@comcast.net>
>
>Several builders have suggested that you don't need to finish drill and
>deburr holes that came pre-punched from Vans; just dimple and go (unless
>you have to match-drill through the hole). I wanted to get some
>opinions from the group before I start setting rivets on my -10 VS. I
>know this would save a great deal of time but I am leaning towards the
>long route. All opinions appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Tommy
The prepunched holes are not properly sized for the dimple die pilot. So,
there will be some localized stress risers and cracking around the hole.
There was a set of pics posted somewhere recently with super close-up
images. Sure enough. Cracks around the hole perimeter. Were they bad
enough to possibly someday elongate into a problem? I have no idea.
After building an RV8 (prepunched skins but no matched hole structural
members), I am much more tolerant of less than textbook perfect form in
riveting, deburring and smoothing. Still, I don't personally feel
comfortable with smashing that dimple pilot through holes that aren't large
enough to accept them.
To each his own. You have to be able to sleep at night with your
workmanship standards.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51 elevators
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Bottom line.....Dont take the short cut!
At 05:04 PM 3/30/04 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Norman" <tie-norman@comcast.net>
>
>Several builders have suggested that you don't need to finish drill and
>deburr holes that came pre-punched from Vans; just dimple and go (unless
>you have to match-drill through the hole). I wanted to get some
>opinions from the group before I start setting rivets on my -10 VS. I
>know this would save a great deal of time but I am leaning towards the
>long route. All opinions appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Tommy
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
"To each his own. You have to be able to sleep at night with your
> workmanship standards."
Forget the "...sleep at night..." stuff,
It's when the "G" meter starts passing thru 3 or 4 that would concern me.
*Just an opinion that's guaranteed to be worth at least as much as you paid
for it.
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Norman" <tie-norman@comcast.net>
> >
> >Several builders have suggested that you don't need to finish drill and
> >deburr holes that came pre-punched from Vans; just dimple and go (unless
> >you have to match-drill through the hole). I wanted to get some
> >opinions from the group before I start setting rivets on my -10 VS. I
> >know this would save a great deal of time but I am leaning towards the
> >long route. All opinions appreciated.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Tommy
>
> The prepunched holes are not properly sized for the dimple die pilot. So,
> there will be some localized stress risers and cracking around the hole.
> There was a set of pics posted somewhere recently with super close-up
> images. Sure enough. Cracks around the hole perimeter. Were they bad
> enough to possibly someday elongate into a problem? I have no idea.
>
> After building an RV8 (prepunched skins but no matched hole structural
> members), I am much more tolerant of less than textbook perfect form in
> riveting, deburring and smoothing. Still, I don't personally feel
> comfortable with smashing that dimple pilot through holes that aren't
large
> enough to accept them.
>
> To each his own. You have to be able to sleep at night with your
> workmanship standards.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51 elevators
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Tommy,
Do try to avoid the tempting shortcuts. The procedures used in building
aircraft have been developed and refined over many years. Though the reasons
for the various steps may not be immediately apparent, good sound
engineering, reason and logic are there to serve you.
Almost all the mistreaks I have had to overcome can be at laest in some part
attributed to my own impatience.
All the fixes where achived by going back to accepted aircraft construction
procedures.
When going flying, would you skip the simple stuff like pre-flight
inspections, check lists, and flight plans etc.? I hope not!
By now you might have deduced that I am in favor of drilling all hole to
size by the book.{[;-)!
In my experiance at least, the short cut attitude has been more of an devil
than a friend.
Happy building,
Jim (I never make misstreaks) in Kelowna Finishing the wiring and
testing it.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tommy Norman" <tie-norman@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Norman" <tie-norman@comcast.net>
>
> Several builders have suggested that you don't need to finish drill and
> deburr holes that came pre-punched from Vans; just dimple and go (unless
> you have to match-drill through the hole). I wanted to get some
> opinions from the group before I start setting rivets on my -10 VS. I
> know this would save a great deal of time but I am leaning towards the
> long route. All opinions appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Tommy
>
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: CNC Panel cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000@deru.com>
Tommy Walker wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker"
>
> Two or three weeks ago there was a thread on the list about a fellow who, from
a "panel builder" file, would auto-cad a full scale panel drawing. Then after
the builder was satisfied he would CNC cut your panel.
>
> Does anyone have information on how to contact this fellow?
Ross Schlotthauer
http://www.experimentalair.com/
I just sent him my panel to be cut about
a week ago.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
www.deru.com/~rv9a
90338 - electrical/finishing
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | K&N air filter E-3450 deal(?) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Todd" <motodd@worldnet.att.net>
I was shopping for a replacement K&N air filter today on the internet
and came across what appears to be a good deal for anyone interested in
having a spare K&N E-3450, the standard air filter that fits the FAB360
air box set up(Filter Height: 2.5 in (64 mm)Inside Diameter: 6.25 in
(159 mm)Outside Diameter: 7.75 in (197 mm)). The filter on my RV4 has
1200+ hours on it and the wire mesh is beginning to show a couple of
tiny fatigue cracks in it.
A place called Pierce Manifolds in Gilroy, CA has a close-out clearance
sale listing on their website for E-3450 filters at $4 each (Van's lists
them for $27.83). I called and they said that they had ordered a bunch
by mistake and had been unable to find a use for them.
I ordered a few for my local RV pals and myself. If anybody else wants
to give these guys a try, their order desk phone number is 800 874 3728.
Mark
RV4
KAWO
Message 39
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--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
OOPS. I was thinking of the OAT when I sent this. Brain Fart. do no
archive.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp
TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
JeffRose Flightline Interiors
Firewall Forward, Wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> It will cost you ten bucks to get it and the cable is 10' long. Maybe not
a
> long enough cable for anyone having the remote compass toward the back of
> the plane unless mounting the probe under the HS is an option.
>
> Available starting 4-15-04.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp
> TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> JeffRose Flightline Interiors
> Firewall Forward, Wiring
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> >
> > I want to play with Dynon's dongle...
> >
> > Oops, did I say that...
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> >
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> >Several builders have suggested that you don't need to finish drill and
>deburr holes that came pre-punched from Vans; just dimple and go (unless
> >you have to match-drill through the hole).
> After building an RV8 (prepunched skins but no matched hole structural
> members), I am much more tolerant of less than textbook perfect form in
> riveting, deburring and smoothing. Still, I don't personally feel
> comfortable with smashing that dimple pilot through holes that aren't
large
> enough to accept them.
Like Brian, I don't confess to know for sure; but, here is how I plan to do
them on my newest project, a -7A. I'm going to test the holes to see if the
dimple die will penetrate the hole without much force. Some do, some don't.
If I can pop it in with a gentle shove, it's not getting drilled because I
know that dimpling the hole will spread it open some, even if I drill it.
If I'd have to force it through the hole with much effort, I'm going to
match drill.
When I was helping Jim Render build his -9A, there were many holes we did
not have to match drill; and, there were some we did. Before I decided to
not match drill some, I did look at a couple of undrilled holes that I'd
dimpled under a magnifying glass and didn't see the cracks. They may have
been there. However, I'm wondering if there will be any cracking from those
holes in my lifetime. I'm doubting it. I'm not going to tell you what to
do, either. I just know what I'm going to do with mine and can't suggest
that to you.
The other day, I was looking at Van Hinforff's HS parts. The skins and ribs
may not have to be match drilled; but, the spars would require it because
the tapered pin would stop on the hole and not go all the way in without
some force. I suggested that he match drill those. In fact, I suggested it
to him again tonight. I think he's going with dimpling and not match
drilling. So far, he likes what he's seeing.
The problem I have in all this is that I'm afraid match drilling may change
the holes a little so that one doesn't have that near perfect condition, any
more. I get laughed at for thinking that way; but, it's hard to drill a
perfect hole unless it's a machine doing it. Am I the only one who thinks
that way? Maybe not. :-) If mine develops big cracks from the rivets,
I'll have my answer, then.
It's kinda like primer and deburring. I've heard it's OK to not primer and
that one should primer. I've heard one should debur holes and others say it
isn't necessary. I know engineers are going to say drill and dimple. The
hands on guy will say dimple away! Who's right? The one who has the theory
or the guy who lives with it every day? Hmmmm.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Cleaning engine parts to store away. Wings ordered)
do not archive
Message 41
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--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
The FAA version of the story can be found here.
http://www.faa.gov/avr/aai/B_0330_N.txt
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,449 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Security
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
At our airport they've started a new security procedure,
After landing one must prove they still have the same number of passengers
that one took off with.
It seems an old guy purchased a biplane ride for his 88th birthday and
jumped out on downwind to base turn.
It wouldn't have been so bad but he got sliced and diced on some power wires
and then landed in a pizza parlor's parking lot. (I won't be eating there
again)
there has to be a better way of doing one's self in...
do not archive
Message 42
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| Subject: | Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
I am having problems finding a place to buy those
#440-(6) or (8)Stainless Steel Machine Screws.
I have checked Wicks on line catalog and came up
blank.
I bought a big package at OSH several years ago for my
wing tips and now that supply is running out.
Dan DeNeal
rv6a N256GD
__________________________________
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Tommy,
The first that I heard of not match drilling was at either OSH or Sun-n-Fun a
year or two ago. It was from Jan Ennenfelner who at that time was building a
-9. He said that he looked under a microscope (or maybe it was a magnifier)
and couldn't tell the difference whether he deburred or not. I got home and
tried it. He was right. But, you know what, after that I deburred before and
after I dimpled the holes!
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done and sleeping very well!)
In a message dated 3/30/04 6:06:17 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
tie-norman@comcast.net writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Norman" <tie-norman@comcast.net>
>
> Several builders have suggested that you don't need to finish drill and
> deburr holes that came pre-punched from Vans; just dimple and go (unless
> you have to match-drill through the hole). I wanted to get some
> opinions from the group before I start setting rivets on my -10 VS. I
> know this would save a great deal of time but I am leaning towards the
> long route. All opinions appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Tommy
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | CNC Panel cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Here's another one, an RV-8 builder/pilot in the Everett Washington area:
http://rvwoody.com/ Have a look at his website.
Terry
-> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
Two or three weeks ago there was a thread on the list about a fellow who,
from a "panel builder" file, would auto-cad a full scale panel drawing. Then
after the builder was satisfied he would CNC cut your panel.
Does anyone have information on how to contact this fellow?
Tommy Walker
6A, Ridgetop, TN
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
Based on my limited experience, I think time saved by not drilling &
deburring is insignificant.
Suppose you spend 20 seconds drilling and deburring each hole & that's
probably about twice what you would really spend drilling & deburring, but
we have to add in time to cleco things together & take them apart. For
10,000 rivets, you save 55 hours on the whole project. A project in which
you invest, say, 2,000 hours. You have saved 3% of your time.
Now, you go to dimple. My male die goes into the hole easily. Yours does
not fit in the hole & you have to force it in. When I press the go lever
on my pneumatic squeezer, depending on part orientation, the aluminum
sitting on the male die, which is sitting on the ram, gets pushed straight
into the female die, every time, 100% so far. Yours may sometimes slip out
of position unless you spent time forcing your die into the hole. And to
avoid this kind of problem, you have to take more time to be more
careful. Hmmm, that's time you subtract from that 55 hours you
saved. Plus you have to add in time to replace or repair the parts you
ruin because the part slipped off the die & you got a big dent where you
shouldn't.
If time is so important, get a pneumatic squeezer. Dimpling goes really
fast. Get an adjustable ram for it from Avery & you save adjustment time &
lots of frustration.
Get a pneumatic cleco tool from The Yard for $25. Makes pulling out large
numbers of clecos go faster & it's easier on your hands.
Get a number of drills. Set up one with a 3/32 bit, another with 1/8, etc.
Put a coarse or medium belt on your belt sander.
Read instructions ahead of time. Order "optional" rivets & other things
before you need them so you don't stall waiting for parts orders.
If you enjoy music, get a good stereo & it will make all that drilling &
deburring go faster & you won't care.
Richard Scott
9 Emp. & wings are in the barn, waiting for me.
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Exhaust Ball Joints |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
On my Vetterman exhaust system 300 hrs, I notice the ball joints on both sides
of the engine seem to be getting loose. How much play should be expected to be
normal. Mine are loose enough that you can rotate them by hand, is this normal
wear? My pipes are secured the old way by clamps at the aft end of the pipes
at the lower fuselage. Any help appreciated.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Re: Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch@earthlink.net>
Dan try microfastners.com
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL |
rv7-list@matronics.com, rv8-list@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000@yahoo.com>
For helpful information see:
See Nov 03 Archieves:
"A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION
CONTROL"
__________________________________
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mauri Morin" <maurv8@bigsky.net>
Dan
Try http://www.microfasteners.com/
Mauri
RV-8 wings (forever)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
>
> I am having problems finding a place to buy those
> #440-(6) or (8)Stainless Steel Machine Screws.
>
> I have checked Wicks on line catalog and came up
> blank.
>
> I bought a big package at OSH several years ago for my
> wing tips and now that supply is running out.
>
> Dan DeNeal
> rv6a N256GD
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
Message 50
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| Subject: | Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
I purchased mine at Cleaveland Aircraft Tools. They still have them in
their catalog as a kit and I bet you can purchase them as screws only.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=WHS220&variation=&aitem=17&mitem=17
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,449 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws?
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
I am having problems finding a place to buy those
#440-(6) or (8)Stainless Steel Machine Screws.
I have checked Wicks on line catalog and came up
blank.
I bought a big package at OSH several years ago for my
wing tips and now that supply is running out.
Dan DeNeal
rv6a N256GD
__________________________________
http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
Message 51
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| Subject: | "Warm" master relay |
rv-list@matronics.com, vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
My friend has a newly aquired RV-6 and has noticed the master relay gets
"very warm" while flying. Does anyone know if this is normal, or if there could
be an issue? I cannot get to my master relay in my -4 due to it being covered
by my center console.
Thanks for any help!
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage
Message 52
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| Subject: | Goodyear Flight Custom III Tires |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
Everyone at my airport swears they get 3X the tire wear with the Goodyear
Flight Custom III tires. Has anyone tried these, and do they fit in the wheel
pants? I've heard horror stories of people trying new tires and having them
wear holes in the wheel pants. Thanks
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage
Message 53
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| Subject: | [ H.Ivan Haecker ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: H.Ivan Haecker <baremetl@gvtc.com>
Subject: The Other Two Best RVs...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/baremetl@gvtc.com.03.30.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 3/30/04 4:28:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv6apilot@yahoo.com writes:
<< I am having problems finding a place to buy those
#440-(6) or (8)Stainless Steel Machine Screws.
>>
Try Cleveland Tool.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Peruccaj@aol.com
I get all mine at the local boat store. They are of high quality but not
cheap.
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: CNC Panel cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Tommy Walker wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
>
>Two or three weeks ago there was a thread on the list about a fellow who, from
a "panel builder" file, would auto-cad a full scale panel drawing. Then after
the builder was satisfied he would CNC cut your panel.
>
>Does anyone have information on how to contact this fellow?
>
>Tommy Walker
>6A, Ridgetop, TN
>
>
You can try http://www.affordablepanels.com/custom_work.htm also. I'm
not sure if he does the stock panels, but zip off an email and ask. Good
price. I might be sending mine to him soon.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
Use 80 grit sandpaper on the aluminum and you will have no problems with adhesion.
Jim Cone
3-Peat Offender
Message 58
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|
| Subject: | Re: "Warm" master relay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
N223RV@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> My friend has a newly aquired RV-6 and has noticed the master relay gets
> "very warm" while flying. Does anyone know if this is normal, or if there could
> be an issue? I cannot get to my master relay in my -4 due to it being covered
> by my center console.
>
> Thanks for any help!
>
> -Mike Kraus
> N223RV RV-4 Flying
> N213RV RV-10 Empennage
Mine Runs HOT. It is not too hot to touch, but it is too hot to keep holding on
to.
I was concerned about it. Haven't flown yet, (I'm starting to wonder if I will??
)
I called Van's and I was told " don't worry about it".
I have left it on for days while burning in the solid state stuff. It hasn't burned
up yet.
Phil in Illinois
Message 59
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| Subject: | Re: Where to buy #4 Stainless Screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/30/2004 4:28:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv6apilot@yahoo.com writes:
I am having problems finding a place to buy those
#440-(6) or (8)Stainless Steel Machine Screws.
==========================
Try Olander listed in the Yeller Pages.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 685 hrs)
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