Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:52 AM - Re: Most efficient climb (Kevin Horton)
2. 05:06 AM - Re: [rv8list] RV-393 vs RG-400 vs RG-58 (lucky macy)
3. 05:21 AM - Re: Most efficient climb (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
4. 05:42 AM - Re: Autopilot Itch (N13eer@aol.com)
5. 06:21 AM - Out of the Heat (Donald Mei)
6. 07:08 AM - Blue Mountain EFIS (Steve&Anita Nyman)
7. 07:46 AM - Re: Dynon OAT Probe (Lockamy, Jack L)
8. 08:03 AM - Re: Dynon OAT Probe (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
9. 08:21 AM - Re: Re: Autopilot Itch (Doug Rozendaal)
10. 08:29 AM - Re: Most efficient climb (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
11. 08:49 AM - Re: Re: Autopilot Itch (Michael Stephan)
12. 09:19 AM - Re: Dynon OAT Probe (Laird Owens)
13. 09:28 AM - Re: Blue Mountain EFIS (Terry Watson)
14. 09:33 AM - Re: Dynon OAT Probe (Terry Watson)
15. 12:36 PM - Fradulent engine builder (Phil Weed)
16. 12:40 PM - Wing tips (Travis Hamblen)
17. 01:07 PM - Re: Wing tips (Greg Young)
18. 01:12 PM - Engine Shake During Shutdown (Gabe A Ferrer)
19. 01:15 PM - Re: Fradulent engine builder (C. Rabaut)
20. 01:26 PM - Re: Blue Mountain EFIS (Michael Stephan)
21. 01:42 PM - Re: Fradulent engine builder (Brian Denk)
22. 01:52 PM - Re: Wing tips (Kevin Horton)
23. 02:05 PM - Re: Engine Shake During Shutdown (Brian Denk)
24. 02:32 PM - Re: Wing tips (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
25. 02:35 PM - Re: Engine Shake During Shutdown (Scott Bilinski)
26. 03:27 PM - Re: Engine Shake During Shutdown (Terry Watson)
27. 03:31 PM - Re: Engine Shake During Shutdown (Laird Owens)
28. 04:08 PM - Re: Engine Shake During Shutdown (Dave Bristol)
29. 04:41 PM - Re: Most efficient climb (LarryRobertHelming)
30. 05:56 PM - FOR SALE: Total LASAR Ignition System (LML Klingmuller)
31. 06:00 PM - Re: Most efficient climb (Charlie & Tupper England)
32. 07:04 PM - Re: Most efficient climb (Denis Walsh)
33. 08:11 PM - Interiors by Becky Orndorff (Travis Hamblen)
34. 10:10 PM - Fw: Off-line reply to your - Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes? (Rob W M Shipley)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Most efficient climb |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
At 14:55 -0800 5/4/04, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>So your going on a long X-country What is the most efficient climb? Blast
>right on up to altitude and go, or, do a long cruise climb, somewhere in
>between, what speed? Has anyone really crunched the numbers and figured
>this out. I figured one of you test pilot types know this stuff. Oh, the
>whole point is to get from point A to point B (this case 700 miles) the
>fastest at 8k feet, depending on the wind of course while using the least
>amount of fuel.
>
>Scott Bilinski
Scott - I think the only way to answer this question is via a series
of flight tests. Otherwise we are just guessing. The flight tests
wouldn't be too hard to do if you have a fuel flow system with a fuel
remaining or a fuel used function.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | RE: [rv8list] RV-393 vs RG-400 vs RG-58 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
#1) RG-393 is a military version of RG-224.
#2) RG-393 .360" dia. RG-400 0.171" dia.
#3) Use TNC connectors (made for RG-393) for 4 GHz signals. BNC usually
deteriorates above 2 GHz.
#4) Instead of a 4" bend radius, you're now talking 6" for a bend.
#5) RG-393 is 6.50 $/ft, RG-400 is 1.85 $/ft.
#6) Temperature ranges for the cables are IDENTICAL. They are both "Type IX"
- Mil-C-17 cables, with a temperature range of -55oC to +200oC.
#7) RG-400 weighs .050 lb/ft, RG-393 weighs 0.175 lb/ft..
#8) RG-393 is really neat of you want the RADALT to work properly.
----Original Message Follows----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [rv8list] RV-393 vs RG-400 vs RG-58
Speaking of not using RG-58, here's what a professional EMI engineer told me
at work. We were discussing a RADALT issue we have on a aircraft.
"When in doubt, use RG-393 or better for RADALT applications. Also use a
swept elbow if you have to turn a corner. Do not use mitered elbows as the
pulse will get distorted from a non-linear group delay at the corner.
The advantage of RG-400 over RG-58 is double shielding with better optical
coverage and better quality Teflon dielectric centers.
RG-393 is 0.23 dB/ft at 4300 MHz (rated at about 50 W CW@ 4300). RG-400 is
twice the loss.
I'd also use RG-393 for GPS but RG-400 will still work."
lucky
----Original Message Follows----
From: rickrv6@aol.com
Subject: Re: [rv8list] Re: light speed ignition questions
Mark,
Take a look at this article written by Bob Nuckolls:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/RG58/RG58.html
He provides an even different alternative to RG cable.
Rick McBride
In a message dated 4/3/04 3:37:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
redbeardmark@yahoo.com writes:
> Jerry,
> My LSE Plasma II+ replaces the right-side mag and goes to the top
> plugs. Don't know about using it on the bottom plugs. Don't know
> about the impulse vs. non-impulse issue either.
>
> The coax cables which run from the E/I unit to the coils are RG58.
> An astute fellow builder suggested that I replace the RG58 with RG400
> because of heat from the engine (which I am in the process of
> doing). Klaus at LSE said that RG400 would be optimum. Looking
> forward to testing the engine this June.
>
> Mark Andrews N598X
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Persistent heartburn? Check out Digestive Health & Wellness for information
and advice. http://gerd.msn.com/default.asp
Limited-time offer: Fast, reliable MSN 9 Dial-up Internet access FREE for 2
months!
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Most efficient climb |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
In a message dated 4/5/2004 11:53:34 PM Central Standard Time,
rv6_flyer@hotmail.com writes:
So your going on a long X-country What is the most efficient climb? Blast
right on up to altitude and go, or, do a long cruise climb, somewhere in
between, what speed? Has anyone really crunched the numbers and figured
this out.
I climb according to headwinds or tailwinds.
Doug Preston
RV8
N127EK
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot Itch |
--> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
I don't have an autopilot yet but I am leaning towards the TruTrack over the EZ-pilot
based on the installation. TruTrack supplies all the brackets and fittings
needed along with installation drawings. With the EZ-pilot you have to come
up with your own mounts and installation. I figure it is a weekend of down
time rather than two. From what I have read both systems perform great.
Alan Kritzman
Cedar Rapids, IA
RV-8 130 hour without an autopilot
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
I think Charlie is just taunting us "Yankees".
>Just throw a bedrool in your plane/car & we will find you a
>place to sleep that's out of the heat.
I know his events in June and it may even be warm up in CT by then, but it
was 30 freaking degrees out here this morning. I never thought I'd be
leavingmy engine heater on in April.
Don Mei
do not archive
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve&Anita Nyman" <nyman@bellsouth.net>
Hi Y'all,
I haven't read anything lately about BMA's EFIS One or Lite. Has anyone installed
and flown one of these units yet? Any comments?
Steve
7QB
MEM
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Dynon OAT Probe |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Lockamy, Jack L" <jack.lockamy@navy.mil>
Larry,
The Dynon OAT probe cable I received was only 8 FT long. Thus it eliminated any
chance of running the probe under either wing in my case (remote mag compass
module located in aft fuse on F-707 bulkhead).
Based on replies I received when I first posted this thread, and a bit of head
scratching on my part, last night I installed the probe under the H/S.... right
side, approx 8" back from the leading edge and 3" down. Again, I have not flown
yet so I can't say whether or not this location will be suitable, however
the probe is shaded from direct sun-light, easily accessible, and hopefully will
not be affected by exhaust heat. Seemed like the best location for my particular
setup....
As for the other part of your post, I purchased the probe so I would have access
to ALL the features in the Dynon EFIS. As you know, without the Dynon OAT probe,
you will be limited to displaying IAS only. True airspeed and density altitude
will now be available to me at a glance. I agree TAS is not a real important
number when you have ground speed from a GPS, but having the Dynon calculate
density altitude is data I'm sure I will find extremely useful.
FWIW...I'm also using the Grand Rapids EIS-4000 engine monitor with their OAT probe
that will be mounted under the right wing. No, the two are not compatible....
I asked! I installed this option not knowing if/when Dynon would be releasing
their probe. Now I will be able to compare the two. I believe the Dynon
Configuration software will allow adjustments to their OAT probe readings.
Modern technology is a WONDERFUL thing! :-)
Jack Lockamy
RV-7A N174JL reserved
Full IFR panel completed
starting canopy
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Dynon OAT Probe |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
In a message dated 04/06/2004 7:47:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jack.lockamy@navy.mil writes:
I agree TAS is not a real important number when you have ground speed from a
GPS
Actually, by comparing TAS with the GPS ground speed during your climb, you
can see the headwing/tailwind component as you climb.
If you have a headwind at the altitude you had chosen to fly, and you pasted
through a more favorable tailwind at a lower altitude (or a lessor headwind),
you can decide if you want to drop back down to that lower altitude.
You can also monitor the headwind/tailwind component during your flight.
A GPS and the TAS on a MicroEncoder allows this, also.
Jim Ayers
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot Itch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
For me it comes down to this.
I have a Navaid, and I plan to upgrade to the Trutrak because of the Turn
Coordinator presentation. The performance of the Navaid is not perfect, but
perfectly adequate. I am certain the Trio and Trutrak are nearly perfect.
I looked at the Trio, but the Turn Coordinator presentation on the New
Trutrak and the fact that Jim Younkin is behind it, makes it an easy choice
for me.
It would be VERY Difficult to fly partial panel in any turbulence at all
with the Navaid. Having said that, if the Navaid, or any autopilot, was
working, I would turn it on and fly the airplane with the GPS or the turn
knob on the Navaid.
An added benefit of the Trutrak is the ability to fly a heading, the Navaid
will wander if left unattended and not coupled to the GPS, but that feature
is not worth the upgrade price, the Turn Coordinator presentation is. If
the Dynon quit, and I was in turbulence, I would probably pay $10,000 for a
better backup.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Most efficient climb |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 03:55 PM 4/5/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
For the most efficient ( fast with economy ) travel I make use of
altitudes. I've found myself going east to Oshkosh at 17,500 and coming
back at 1000 AGL. It is hard to ignore the winds aloft. Had my RV been
IFR capable, I'd have been higher still.
hal
>So your going on a long X-country What is the most efficient climb? Blast
>right on up to altitude and go, or, do a long cruise climb, somewhere in
>between, what speed? Has anyone really crunched the numbers and figured
>this out. I figured one of you test pilot types know this stuff. Oh, the
>whole point is to get from point A to point B (this case 700 miles) the
>fastest at 8k feet, depending on the wind of course while using the least
>amount of fuel.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot Itch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael Stephan <mstephan@shr.net>
TruTrak has a new product coming out, should be on sale now or at Sun-N-Fun,
that puts the digitrack (single axis autopilot) in the same unit as the turn
coordinator, or pictorial turn coordinator, as Jim calls it. This he did in
response to the navaid replacement senario, where a turn coordinator is
needed to replace the navaid one. The website has more info.
http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
--
Michael Stephan
> From: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 20:22:24 -0400
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Autopilot Itch
>
> What is everybody using as a backup for turn and bank when you remove the
> control head of the Navaid, on my install I used the Navaid and Altrac.
> Works fine especially since I use the Garmin 196, my last trip is was off
> about 14 feet. Not bad for a piece of junk, as you say.
> Harvey Sigmon N602RV
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Dynon OAT Probe |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Lockamy, Jack L" <jack.lockamy@navy.mil>
>snip
>
>FWIW...I'm also using the Grand Rapids EIS-4000 engine monitor with
>their OAT probe that will be mounted under the right wing. No, the
>two are not compatible.... I asked! I installed this option not
>knowing if/when Dynon would be releasing their probe. Now I will be
>able to compare the two. I believe the Dynon Configuration software
>will allow adjustments to their OAT probe readings.
My Chief Engineer says "with two data points, you'll never know which
one is right" cuz you just know they won't be the same.
Laird
Do not archive
>
>Jack Lockamy
>RV-7A N174JL reserved
>Full IFR panel completed
>starting canopy
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
I know of three that are flying in RV's, one in an RV-9 and two in RV-8's.
There are many flying in other aircraft. Check their website
(http://www.bluemountainavionics.com) for lots more detail. There was a
hint of a new model to be announced at Sun N' Fun.
I am installing the BMA EFIS/one in my RV-8A and continue to be pleased with
my decision 18 months ago to go with them. They continue to improve what
they have and add to the capabilities. They now have an integral 2-axis
autopilot capable of flying your flight plan, HITS (highway in the sky)
capability, something almost like synthetic vision where the terrain is
shown color coded on the moving map (I think the new Garmin 296 has this)
and on the artificial horizon of the attitude indicator. They also have put
together a package of engine sensors to work with Lycomming and Van's
aircraft, and you can now buy the whole thing from Van's.
The latest upgrade for me was a switch from a DVD drive to hold the charts
and terrain info and update the system software to a little Compact Flash
card just like the one in my Cannon digital camera. Along with this change
came the ability to download engine sensor, air data, and GPS position
recorded every 5 seconds and analyze it with a PC program.
Terry
RV-8A #80729 wiring
Seattle
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve&Anita Nyman" <nyman@bellsouth.net>
Hi Y'all,
I haven't read anything lately about BMA's EFIS One or Lite. Has anyone
installed and flown one of these units yet? Any comments?
Steve
7QB
MEM
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
I didn't mention this in my post about the Blue Mountain EFIS/one, but it
has a little arrow and number on the screen that shows the wind direction
and speed derived from the GPS, TAS and magnetic heading.
Terry
In a message dated 04/06/2004 7:47:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jack.lockamy@navy.mil writes:
I agree TAS is not a real important number when you have ground speed from a
GPS
Actually, by comparing TAS with the GPS ground speed during your climb, you
can see the headwing/tailwind component as you climb.
If you have a headwind at the altitude you had chosen to fly, and you pasted
through a more favorable tailwind at a lower altitude (or a lessor
headwind),
you can decide if you want to drop back down to that lower altitude.
You can also monitor the headwind/tailwind component during your flight.
A GPS and the TAS on a MicroEncoder allows this, also.
Jim Ayers
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fradulent engine builder |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Weed <rv8a_builder@yahoo.com>
I am looking for information on a supposed engine builder named Steven Scott Woosley
from Plant City, Florida. He claims to be an aircraft/airboat engine builder,
but has defrauded multiple individuals. Anyone with information, please
email me.
---------------------------------
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
How can I tell if I have Standard Flat-Top Wingtips on my RV-6A instead of
the Sheared Wing Tips? I was planning on installing the Airtech Wingtip
Lens Kit from Vans, but they say that they can=92t be installed on the Sheared
wingtips. Any advice on determining the type of wingtip I have would be
greatly appreciated! Also, who sells the best (most easy to install) light
kit for the wingtip landing light kit?
Thanks in advance=85
Travis Hamblen
RV-6A 330 hrs @ VGT
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Pretty simple - a carpenter's square would be flush against both the
root/open side and the top. The "flat-top" of the tip is an straight
extension of the upper wing surface, in fact you fit it by laying a straight
edge across the wing and tip. If it's not that and came from Van's it's a
sheared tip.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen"
> <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
>
> How can I tell if I have Standard Flat-Top Wingtips on my
> RV-6A instead of the Sheared Wing Tips? I was planning on
> installing the Airtech Wingtip Lens Kit from Vans, but they
> say that they can=92t be installed on the Sheared wingtips.
> Any advice on determining the type of wingtip I have would be
> greatly appreciated! Also, who sells the best (most easy to
> install) light kit for the wingtip landing light kit?
>
>
> Thanks in advance=85
>
> Travis Hamblen
>
> RV-6A 330 hrs @ VGT
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Engine Shake During Shutdown |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
Does anyone know of a way to reduce the magnitude of the Lycoming engine shakes
during engine shutdown?
It just seems unnecessary for the engine to do this.
It's annoying and the vibration may harm the engine accessories.
My O-360 A1A has done it from the first time that I ran it.
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 NN2GX 108 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fradulent engine builder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
I think I saw an O-360 on EBAY recently that might be listed by this guy;
have you checked there (Aviation parts, Engines)?
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Phil Weed <rv8a_builder@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fradulent engine builder
> --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Weed <rv8a_builder@yahoo.com>
>
> I am looking for information on a supposed engine builder named Steven
Scott Woosley from Plant City, Florida. He claims to be an aircraft/airboat
engine builder, but has defrauded multiple individuals. Anyone with
information, please email me.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain EFIS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael Stephan <mstephan@shr.net>
Here is one in an RV-9A (http://webpages.charter.net/RV9A/EFIS1.htm). He
has about 50 hours of flying on it. He likes it a ton. It is very user
configurable and therefore also requires tweaking to get to what you want.
In a few months there will be another one flying in an RV-8.
Do not archive
--
Michael Stephan
RV-8 builder
> From: "Steve&Anita Nyman" <nyman@bellsouth.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 09:07:54 -0500
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Blue Mountain EFIS
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve&Anita Nyman" <nyman@bellsouth.net>
>
> Hi Y'all,
>
> I haven't read anything lately about BMA's EFIS One or Lite. Has anyone
> installed and flown one of these units yet? Any comments?
>
> Steve
> 7QB
> MEM
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fradulent engine builder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
I think I saw that ad too! Airboat engine. O-360...
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
>--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
>I think I saw an O-360 on EBAY recently that might be listed by this guy;
>have you checked there (Aviation parts, Engines)?
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Phil Weed <rv8a_builder@yahoo.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Fradulent engine builder
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Weed <rv8a_builder@yahoo.com>
> >
> > I am looking for information on a supposed engine builder named Steven
>Scott Woosley from Plant City, Florida. He claims to be an
>aircraft/airboat
>engine builder, but has defrauded multiple individuals. Anyone with
>information, please email me.
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> >
>
>
Persistent heartburn? Check out Digestive Health & Wellness for information
and advice. http://gerd.msn.com/default.asp
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
>
>How can I tell if I have Standard Flat-Top Wingtips on my RV-6A instead of
>the Sheared Wing Tips? I was planning on installing the Airtech Wingtip
>Lens Kit from Vans, but they say that they can=92t be installed on the Sheared
>wingtips. Any advice on determining the type of wingtip I have would be
>greatly appreciated! Also, who sells the best (most easy to install) light
>kit for the wingtip landing light kit?
>
>
>Thanks in advance=85
>
>Travis Hamblen
>
The outboard edge of the Standard Flat-Top wingtips is parallel to
the aircraft centreline, except where it curves to meet the leading
edge. The outboard edge of the Sheared Wing Tips is not parallel the
aircraft centreline. Also, the top of the standard wing tips is
flat, if you look from the front.
If that doesn't make sense, look at the three-view of the RV-6 on
Van's web site and compare it to the three-view of the RV-7. The
RV-6 three-view shows standard wing tips. The RV-7 three-view shows
sheared wing tips.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-6int.htm
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-7int.htm
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Engine Shake During Shutdown |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Does anyone know of a way to reduce the magnitude of the Lycoming engine
>shakes during engine shutdown?
Yeah. Never run it!
>
>It just seems unnecessary for the engine to do this.
Agreed! Mine does the same thing. Slaps the snot outta the whole airframe.
I have some paint cracks around the base of my windshield from it too.
>
>It's annoying and the vibration may harm the engine accessories.
I'm mostly concerned about panel goodies, and the sanity of the pilot/owner.
:(
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
do not archive
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Travis -
Check Van's web site. Under the "Aircraft Models" section, the pictures
show two RV-6s with the old-style flat top tips, while the RV-7 is pictured
with the new sheared tips.
Neal E. George
RV-7 N8ZG
Tail
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Engine Shake During Shutdown |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I have a light prop (WW 151) and the prop stops rotating within 2 seconds
of cutting off the fuel. "Shaking" does not feel bad at all to me. I will
pay closer attention this weekend and see just how bad it is but it has
never got my attention before.
At 09:05 PM 4/6/04 +0000, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>>Does anyone know of a way to reduce the magnitude of the Lycoming engine
>>shakes during engine shutdown?
>
>Yeah. Never run it!
>>
>>It just seems unnecessary for the engine to do this.
>
>Agreed! Mine does the same thing. Slaps the snot outta the whole airframe.
>I have some paint cracks around the base of my windshield from it too.
>>
>>It's annoying and the vibration may harm the engine accessories.
>
>I'm mostly concerned about panel goodies, and the sanity of the pilot/owner.
>:(
>
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>
>do not archive
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Engine Shake During Shutdown |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
A few months ago a friend's Cessna 182 amphib started exhibiting what seemed
like abnormal shaking during startup and shutdown. On inspection we found a
cracked motor mount (the steel tube frame; not the rubber cushions).
Terry
>
>>Does anyone know of a way to reduce the magnitude of the Lycoming engine
>>shakes during engine shutdown?
>
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Engine Shake During Shutdown |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>snip
>
>I'm mostly concerned about panel goodies, and the sanity of the pilot/owner.
>:(
Too late for the sanity part..... :-)
Birdman
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>
>do not archive
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine Shake During Shutdown |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Same here - very little shake with O-360/constant speed. The engine
mounts have a great deal to do with how much it shakes. I have the
aerobatic mounts and they're pretty solid but I've seen Lyc's shake a
lot with the light duty mounts.
Dave -6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>I have a light prop (WW 151) and the prop stops rotating within 2 seconds
>of cutting off the fuel. "Shaking" does not feel bad at all to me. I will
>pay closer attention this weekend and see just how bad it is but it has
>never got my attention before.
>
>
>At 09:05 PM 4/6/04 +0000, you wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Does anyone know of a way to reduce the magnitude of the Lycoming engine
>>>shakes during engine shutdown?
>>>
>>>
>>Yeah. Never run it!
>>
>>
>>>It just seems unnecessary for the engine to do this.
>>>
>>>
>>Agreed! Mine does the same thing. Slaps the snot outta the whole airframe.
>>I have some paint cracks around the base of my windshield from it too.
>>
>>
>>>It's annoying and the vibration may harm the engine accessories.
>>>
>>>
>>I'm mostly concerned about panel goodies, and the sanity of the pilot/owner.
>>:(
>>
>>
>>Brian Denk
>>RV8 N94BD
>>
>>do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
>
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Most efficient climb |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
On this question of what is the best climb rate, it should also be a concern
that we are flying in a system where others are flying other, and opposite,
headings according to the hemispheric rule. If we climb more slowly, we are
spending more time is the other pilot's air space regarding altitude.
Accordingly, it seems we should not make this necessarily the most efficient
climb rate, but one that regards safety also. Something to consider as it
applies to long slow descents too.
Larry in Indiana
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | FOR SALE: Total LASAR Ignition System |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller@earthlink.net>
On e-Bay I have for sale a LASAR system consisting of
-controller (new) ,
-right and left magnetos (one new, one used),
-low voltage harness (used),
-LASAR timing tool (used)
-plus 3 manuals/publications.
Unison Industries prices for the 5 major items (excluding manuals) is $2,993.-
To see the price list go to >>www.unisonindustries.com, then >>PRODUCTS, then >> PRODUCT CATALOG, then>> LASAR PRICE LIST.
To find the the e-bay listing search in the automobile section for:
1) LASAR or
2) LYCOMING MAGNETOS (plural).
Make a reasonable offer to me directly (e-mail, not on the RV list) and I will
sell to you without going through e-Bay.
Lothar K.
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Most efficient climb |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>So your going on a long X-country What is the most efficient climb? Blast
>right on up to altitude and go, or, do a long cruise climb, somewhere in
>between, what speed? Has anyone really crunched the numbers and figured
>this out. I figured one of you test pilot types know this stuff. Oh, the
>whole point is to get from point A to point B (this case 700 miles) the
>fastest at 8k feet, depending on the wind of course while using the least
>amount of fuel.
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
Van wrote an article about this several years ago; I think it was in the
RVator. My flaky memory is telling me that he mentioned something around
120 mph instead of the expected ~90 mph. The idea was that the low
aspect ratio wing causes (induced?) drag to go up more when you get down
in the 90 mph range. He pointed out that if you climb at calculated
'best climb' using traditional techniques (1.? x stall), then try the
same throttle setting but climb at ~120 mph, you will see the same
*rate* of climb but will cover a lot more territory on the way to cruise
altitude.
I don't remember if he mentioned whether fp or c/s made a difference in
these numbers.
I can say that I've tried it on 2 different fp -4's & my neighbor has
tried it in his fp -8, and the effect was easy to see.
Kevin, can you give a sanity check on this?
Charlie
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Most efficient climb |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
120 MPH IAS is a good climb speed for enroute. In addition to the
reasons cited by Charlie, I would add that this speed also gives the
best visibility during the climb. A slower speed gives you a really
big blind spot under the nose, which requires more clearing turns which
really slows down the rate of climb, not to mention ground speed to
destination direction.
Denis
On Apr 6, 2004, at 7:00 PM, Charlie & Tupper England wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England
> <cengland@netdoor.com>
>
> Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
>> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>> So your going on a long X-country What is the most efficient climb?
>> Blast
>> right on up to altitude and go, or, do a long cruise climb, somewhere
>> in
>> between, what speed? Has anyone really crunched the numbers and
>> figured
>> this out. I figured one of you test pilot types know this stuff. Oh,
>> the
>> whole point is to get from point A to point B (this case 700 miles)
>> the
>> fastest at 8k feet, depending on the wind of course while using the
>> least
>> amount of fuel.
>>
>>
>> Scott Bilinski
>> Eng dept 305
>> Phone (858) 657-2536
>> Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
> Van wrote an article about this several years ago; I think it was in
> the
> RVator. My flaky memory is telling me that he mentioned something
> around
> 120 mph instead of the expected ~90 mph. The idea was that the low
> aspect ratio wing causes (induced?) drag to go up more when you get
> down
> in the 90 mph range. He pointed out that if you climb at calculated
> 'best climb' using traditional techniques (1.? x stall), then try the
> same throttle setting but climb at ~120 mph, you will see the same
> *rate* of climb but will cover a lot more territory on the way to
> cruise
> altitude.
>
> I don't remember if he mentioned whether fp or c/s made a difference in
> these numbers.
>
> I can say that I've tried it on 2 different fp -4's & my neighbor has
> tried it in his fp -8, and the effect was easy to see.
>
> Kevin, can you give a sanity check on this?
>
> Charlie
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Interiors by Becky Orndorff |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
I am starting to think about overhauling/redoing my interior. I absolutely
love the seats by Becky Orndorff, but wanted some feedback on her interior
products. I understand that she ships you the fabrics with the general
outline for needed cuts and so on. I am a fairly handy guy and I am sure I
can do an at least average job. My question is for anyone that has used her
product is just how straight forward is it and does her video help? Any
input from experience, even some pictures of your finished product would be
GREATLY appreciated!
Travis Hamblen
RV-6A 330hrs @ VGT
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fw: Off-line reply to your - Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched |
holes?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Everyone please note that Scott McDaniels has gone to the trouble to give us an
unofficial Van's view of this topic and afford him a courteous reception - unless
you wish to ensure that he won't contribute again.
I received this directly from Scott today.
Subject: Off-line reply to your - Finish Drill / Deburr Pre-punched holes?
Hi Rob,
I am not currently a subscriber on the list but I do cruise the archives on occasion
to see what the latest hot topic is.
I saw yours and thought I would take a moment to reply, but I didn't even have
time to read the other responses so sorry if this is some what redundant.
I also am not sure how much of the below is yours or if some is pasted in but I
will answer some of the questions to hopefully finally put to bed some of the
confusion and miss information about what has been done in the past at Van's
in regards to assembling without drilling.
I work in the proto shop at Vans and have been there about 8 years, so I have been
involved in the evolution to the current level of P.P. holes in all of the
kits.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
>Too many experts and not enough pragmatism.
>Tedd McHenry kindly posted the links for the mil rivet specs. There's a problem
here not addressed by those who feel Van's recommendations are akin to a quick
spritz with holy water. Follow directions and you will NOT meet these specs.
Regardless of what the specs are, if you build to the recommendations in the manual
then you are building to the same standard
as was used to build test items that were static loaded to verify that the structures
met the loads that they were designed too.
If you feel better starting with a hole size that is a few thousandths smaller
then go for it. I don't think any one at Van's has a problem with that as long
as you are using dimple dies that have a pilot that is not stretching the holes
when you insert it (the pilot is a clearance fit to the hole).
>Charlie England's post echoes my own experiences. Match drill, deburr and
dimple and your hole will be oversize on the thinner skins by as much as twice
the allowed tolerance.
See my response above... all the testing was done with parts constructed this way.
If you do not feel good about it the use a smaller hole.
>You can't buy #41 dimple dies and everyone has done it this way for years so it
works. If you match drill with a #41 instead of a #40 it works better, i.e.
the hole is tighter, you need less swell from the rivet and the recommended rivet
size is more likely to work.
This has nothing to do with recommended rivet size. They are spec.ed by what we
used that did work when building the proto parts. Some times sizes are called
out wrong
(we're not perfect) but it is surely not because the hole is a few thousandths
bigger than a Mil. spec calls for.
> I'm sure the theoreticians out there won't like
this suggestions much, however no one at EAA, AOPA and the guys at Vans considered
it a bad idea, when I discussed it with them.
And I have no problem with it either unless you are using dimple dies with a pilot
that doesn't fit the hole. I do have a problem with Not final sizing the
hole from what is punched, but just slamming dimple dies into them.
>Paul Parashak is concerned about "one of the surest ways to accelerate metal failures
is to introduce a flaw. These miniscule cracks and stress areas that are
left in are prime areas for crack propagation." I cannot believe that he has
ever examined the holes which the average builder drills and deburrs. Look
at one with a magnifying glass. They are ugly to varying degrees but definitely
ugly. Cy Galley has a good grasp of the reality of drilling and deburring.
"If you are getting so anal about drilling, I would propose that you use a
chucking reamer instead of a drill. At least that way you will get a round smooth
hole. You don't get smooth or round with a drill bit."
If irregularities around the hole are significant, many riveted aluminium monocoque
planes would not have remained flying for as long, (or longer), than many
of us have been alive .
How many of those airplanes are 100% flush riveted on the exterior? Not many.
When you dimple, you are stretching the material. If you had to force the dimple
pilot into the hole before dimpling you stretched it even more. Now if all
of this was done on holes that had never been up sized, you have a strong potential
for cracking. The punching process leaves a hole edge condition that
is the same as a sheared edge on a skin at best. Some times it is worse because
of a punch tool that is getting slightly dull or has a little more clearance
that when it was new.
It is for this reason that it is recommended in the manual that the holes be final
sized. True, it may not a perfect hole but that is ok. That is what made
riveted construction of aircraft so desirable.
>He also makes the very pertinent observation that presumably
all the lightening holes are punched by Van's. I haven't heard any suggestions
from Van's or our list experts regarding the necessity of enlarging
these to remove the work hardened edge and the attendant stress risers.
Not true! Builders are told to deburr the edges of all parts (this would include
lightening holes).
In our shop we use a small scotch bright wheel in a die grinder to deburr/smooth
all lightening holes and we assume builders are doing similar.
>Vans has not totally dismissed the idea of dimpling the punched hole without match
drilling. Charlie England's discussion with Van "I asked Van, his own self,
face to face, in person, at OSH last summer when they were going to go ahead
&punch the holes 'full size' &save us all some build time. His answer (his *only*
answer) was that there was enough variation in drilling patterns that they
preferred to continue the match drilling thing for now."
I think you are reading more into this than you should. That in no way means that
we would punch them full size if we were confident that the would all line
up properly.
>I also had asked Van's about the rumour I'd heard that they had experimented with
this by building a wing or wings without drilling and was told it was true
but too early to make any comments. I didn't think to ask them what plane they
were for or if they would fly them. I'll ask Ken K. next time I see him.
There was never an "Experiment". It was a time saving short cut only when building
structures that we were using for static testing. It was mentioned in an
RVator only to describe how well the pre punch design work was going and to describe
how well the parts fit. It was never intended to present a process that
should be used to assemble the kit.
We have never done this on any structures that we intended to fly. The cracking
issue is related to the life of the structure with thousands of load cycles.
The structures we did this on only had to last through 1 or 2 load cycles.
>Van is most certainly not reluctant to tackle issues he considers dangerous for
example his stand on not using engines larger than the O 320 in a 9. He is also
notoriously conservative and yet he has not made any attempt to take on this
topic in a similar forthright fashion. This is surprising if, as our theorists
believe, this is a serious problem in practice. I wonder why.
>There are many discrepancies between our practice and theory - hole condition,
size etc. and it would seem that little is known about dimpling and riveting punched
holes in practice. I have read nothing about actual stress cracks seen
in aircraft riveted together without match drilling
Lets see... I have not seen a large campaign calling for an outsider evaluation
of the wing engineering on any of the RV models, do builders acccept on blind
faith that the wings are designed properly but they will not acccept it when
the manual suggests that they final size all of the holes before dimpling?
In my opinion, the absolute bottom line is this... No one at Van's, or probably
anywhere else can tell you with absolute certainty that you will or will not
have cracking problems on your RV 10 or 15 years from now. We have no experience
or data to prove it one way or the other. This is something that would not
likely happen right away. There are probably RV's now flying that were build
without drilling. The owner/builders may even be preaching to everyone that
"They haven't had any problems". That information of no value. Tell us after
the airplane is 10 years old.
I doubt very much that if Van's endorsed skipping the drilling, and 10 years from
now a bunch of RV's started to have cracking problems, I doubt those owners
would consider it much a consolation for Van's to say "Sorry, I guess we were
wrong. From now on we recommend builders don't do that any more".
So, If anyone is willing to experiment, and take a chance, to save maybe 20 hours
of work ( a very small amount considering the total number of hours most builders
expend) on the construction of there RV , then go for it. Just realize
that no mater how many experts you talk to, or how many other builders have
already done it, only time will tell wether you made the right decision.
I hope at least some of this is of some value but I have to close with the standard
disclaimer dribble...
This is my own personal opinion and does not necessarily match the policy's or
opinions of my employer.
P.S. feel free to share this as you wish, as long as you promise to refrain from
flaming me without a chance to respond since I'm not on the list :-)
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|