Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:25 AM - Re: Strapdown inertial navigation systems WAS: Autopilot Itch (Trampas)
2. 06:41 AM - Re: Question for the Engine Guru's on the list (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
3. 07:38 AM - Re: Question for the Engine Guru's on the list (qcbccgalley)
4. 08:18 AM - Re: Question for the Engine Guru's on the list (Eustace Bowhay)
5. 09:32 AM - Torque question (Rick Galati)
6. 10:17 AM - RV-4 Tail Kit for Sale (C. Rabaut)
7. 11:09 AM - Re: Rudder Stiffener Confusion (Frederick Oldenburg)
8. 11:25 AM - Fw: << X PRIZE SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT - 04.08.04 >> (Bill VonDane)
9. 12:25 PM - Re: trim tab position (Joe Hine)
10. 12:30 PM - Re: Catto Props (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
11. 12:34 PM - Re: Fw: << X PRIZE SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT - 04.08.04 >> (JOHN STARN)
12. 01:14 PM - Dynon OAT (Wheeler North)
13. 01:32 PM - Scary (Wheeler North)
14. 01:34 PM - Re: Catto Props (Michael McGee)
15. 02:14 PM - Re: Photos of Dual LSE ignition installation? (RICKRV6@aol.com)
16. 02:17 PM - Request engine rebuilder recommendation (JEREMY C ROBINSON)
17. 02:29 PM - How the Dynon works (Wheeler North)
18. 02:54 PM - Re: Dynon OAT (Larry Bowen)
19. 04:08 PM - Re: How the Dynon works (Jim Jewell)
20. 06:50 PM - 1995 RV-4, 160hp For Sale (Stuart B McCurdy)
21. 07:46 PM - Re: Torque question (Pat Hatch)
22. 08:02 PM - Re: 1995 RV-4, 160hp For Sale (Jim Anglin)
23. 08:21 PM - More fuel tank questions ()
24. 08:55 PM - Re: Exhaust Nut Torque question (Vanremog@aol.com)
25. 09:03 PM - Re: Request engine rebuilder recommendation (Dick Jordan)
26. 09:26 PM - FAB (Larry Bowen)
27. 09:55 PM - Re:160HP O-320, (was 1995 RV-4, 160hp For Sale) (Stein Bruch)
28. 10:22 PM - Austin Tx Info (Karie Daniel)
29. 11:03 PM - Re: Austin Tx Info (Boss)
Message 1
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Subject: | Strapdown inertial navigation systems WAS: Autopilot Itch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
Well I am not sure how Dynon does it, but here are what my thoughts were.
As it was mentioned rate gyros have to be integrated to get position and
have errors, thus they need to be reset.
So lets start the game on the ground, we turn the key on/master on. The
first thing we need to know is if the plane is level. Now the old mechanical
gyros would assume so, but I will bet Dynon doesn't. So the first step is to
measure the angle of the plane. There are two simple ways to do this one is
the magnometer which measures earth's magnetic field, however if you are
near a hanger this could be off. The second is an inclinometer, these
devices work similar to capacitive fuel level sensors. That is imagine you
have two level sensors in box with fluid. Now tilting box results in one
sensor reading higher then the other, thus you have a simple inclinometer.
Ok back to the problem so on the ground we will measure the pitch and roll
using two inclinometers. Now we can reset our rate gyros and life is good,
note we are assuming plane is upright which is a fair assumption on the
ground...
Now we take off and the rate gyros have errors in them so at some point we
need to reset them. Well if we assume that we still have the inclinometer
then we could reset them when the inclinometers are level. However this will
not work as that we could be in a banked turn which could throw the
inclinometers off. That is they could think plane is level when we are
really turning. For example a standard rate turn will throw the
inclinometers off.
So now we to know when we can reset the gyros, which will be basically when
we only have gravity vector (and lift hopefully) acting on the plane. So we
look at the gyros and say yes there is some error but does it say all forces
are zero, if so then it might be a good time to reset. Now if we also look
at our magnometer (aka compass sensors) and see if we have been flying
straight then we can be fairly sure it is a good time to reset. That is we
are not in a long banked turn.
Well this works well as long as we are upright, which is not a fair
assumption in the air. Therefore we need to have a sensor, a simple mercury
switch that tells us if we are upright are not. Actually the inclinometers
may have this feature included.
Well this would work quite well depending on the error rate of the gyros,
well if we also had the velocity of the plane we could compensate for some
of the gyro errors. That is if we know we are going 100knts and turning we
can get an idea of what the gyros should read. So lets add air speed into
the mix as well.
Now we have all this data coming in and we want to process it to give
results, and we would like to have a "continuous" reset feature of the
gyros. To do this we take all the inputs we have:
3-axis rate Gyros
Inclinometers
3-axis Magnometers (aka magnetic field sensors)
Mercury switch (inverted sensor)
Air speed
Then we derive equations for our outputs, then we apply these equations
using a signal processing method called a Kalman filter. This will basically
keep the system reset all the time and provide us with our outputs. We also
add some sanity checks to see if the data is in left field and basically
ship the product. That is the magic is actually in the filtering algorithm
for the data.
Now I am not in any way associated with Dynon so this is just a guess. I
would also guess that they use temperature inside their box as well to
compensate the gyros but again this is only a WAG.
If someone wants to pay me to do it I will even make an attempt to see if
this system would actually work. :)
Regards,
Trampas Stern
www.sterntech.com
Message 2
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Subject: | Question for the Engine Guru's on the list |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
No problem Stein,
In fact, you may have made my day. Looking at my engine mount it does look
like it is only the nose gear mount that gets in the way. I was thinking that
it wouldn't work on any RV.
I am 60 years old, and a fairly low time pilot with no tail dragger time.
When the decision had to be made, I just didn't feel like taking on the risk of
ground loops, etc., along with the performance of an RV. Maybe next time!
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (getting close)
In a message dated 4/7/04 11:32:05 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
stein@steinair.com writes:
>
> Oh, one last thing to keep this all light hearted - If you'd only gone with
> a Taildragger, that pesky nose gear most likely wouldn't have been in the
> way!!! No sump interference, no FAB interference, no Slot &cover in the
> cowl, no nosewheel shimmy, and no flat nose tires (OK, I better stop before
> the war starts again)!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Question for the Engine Guru's on the list |
--> RV-List message posted by: "qcbccgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Yes, BUT! Tail wheels are known to shimmy. Tail wheels are known to damage
the rudder. Tailwheels also ground loop a bunch easier. AND I own a
taildragger.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Question for the Engine Guru's on the list
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> Hi Dan,
>
> The whole point of my comment was that this engine has obviously already
> been modified, as the -B4A is NOT a rear sump engine originally, hence the
> missing data plate on the sump.... As pointed out by a couple other
> individuals, the -B4A has a vertical sump, I re-checked my manuals to make
> sure.
>
> I'm not dumb enough to comment on the FAA thing in writing, but suffice to
> say it sholdn't be a huge issue...
>
> Oh, one last thing to keep this all light hearted - If you'd only gone
with
> a Taildragger, that pesky nose gear most likely wouldn't have been in the
> way!!! No sump interference, no FAB interference, no Slot & cover in the
> cowl, no nosewheel shimmy, and no flat nose tires (OK, I better stop
before
> the war starts again)!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
>
> Do not Archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Hopperdhh@aol.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Question for the Engine Guru's on the list
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> Stein and fellow Listers,
>
> Be careful with rear facing sump engines. I started with an IO-360-C1E6
> with
> a rear facing sump. I had the front pads machined and the FI servo moved
to
> the front. When I tried to put it on the RV-7A engine mount it wouldn't
go
> due to the entire sump being about 2 inches further aft than an -A1A sump.
> I
> had to forget the modified -C1E6 sump and the $300 invested in moving the
> servo
> to the front, and go with an -A1A sump. I think that makes the engine an
> -A1B6 according to Vans table. I still don't know how to tell the FAA guy
> what I
> did. Can I get a new data plate?
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (getting pretty close)
>
>
> In a message dated 4/7/04 1:22:59 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> stein@steinair.com writes:
>
> >
> > 8) Speaking of rear facing sumps. Look closely and see if there is a
> > "non-machined" pad on the front of it. If so, you can simply take it to
a
> > machine shop and have the forward faced opening cut. Many rear-facing
> sumps
> > have this provision already cast in, and just need to be machined. Then
> you
> > put a block on the reat opening and....poof, a forward facing servo!
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Stein Bruch
> > RV6's, Minneapolis
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Question for the Engine Guru's on the list |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hi Dave:
The value really depends on the condition of the crankshaft and
unfortunately this can only be determined at teardown. I have purchased
engines like this in the past but only on the basis that the owner guarantee
the crank is serviceable.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave (by way of Matt Dralle <nospam@matronics.com>)"
<dave@coltnet.net>
Subject: RV-List: Question for the Engine Guru's on the list
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@coltnet.net> (by way of Matt
Dralle <nospam@matronics.com>)
>
>
> I have the opportunity to purchase an IO-360-B4A engine that has all
the
> accessories and is running but absolutely no logs and the present owner
> doesn't know the history. It does not have a data plate, the
IO-360-B4A
> is
> stamped on the sump where the data plate would go. It is a wide deck,
> parallel valve, rear induction 180 hp (probably solid crank haven't
pulled
> the prop off to check) with a bendix servo fuel injection, Electro
system
> mags (?) oil cooler, vacuum pump and all gyros (RC Allen TSOed )
Pretty
> much a full panel of old analog gauges and monitors, an old escort II
> radio and
> a Narco ID-825 CDI with GS and the well weathered assembled
> but defiantly not airworthy fuselage of one of those plastic airplanes.
> They want to sell it as a package.
>
> How much is something like this worth? Is the fuel injection a plus?
> I would like use the engine as a core to overhaul and put in an -8.
> Would I be able to keep the rear induction or would I need to
> change out the sump?
>
> Thanks for your time!!
>
> Dave
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
I was asked to pose this question by a friend who does not go on-line. Reworking
the exhaust system on his airplane, he wants to know the optimum torque value
applied to exhaust stud nuts on an 0-320 when using crush gaskets. He says Lycoming
will not provide this specific information referring him to the exhaust
system manufacturer (which has proved unsucessful) and AC43 merely provides
a generic torque value that most people simply refer to.
This gentleman is a retired flight test engineer and tends to obsess. I said I
would pose the question on forums such as this one and see what I could come
up with. What information can I relay to him?
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
---------------------------------
Message 6
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Subject: | RV-4 Tail Kit for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Hi Guys & Gals,
This gentleman (Joe Fox) has an RV-4 tail kit for sale. Give him a call,
or email his son "Dave".
Chuck
From: Dave Fox
To: crabaut@coalinga.com
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 9:41 AM
Subject: Barnstormers Listing: RV-4 or RV-6 kit or airframe WANTED
Hello Chuck, I saw your ad on barnstormers for the RV-4 or 6 kits. My father
has the empennage kit for the RV-4 in the box. He is 83 and will never build
it and I am pretty sure he is willing to part with it. If you are interested
his name is Joe Fox in Morton, Illinois(outside of Peoria). Phone 309-266-5195.
Thanks for your time. Sincerely, David Fox, Anchorage, Alaska
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Rudder Stiffener Confusion |
--> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
Thanks to all who replied....I posted some pics on my website that document how
I trimmed the stiffeners:
http://www.rv.oldsack.com/weblog.php?id=D20040407
I think I got it right...hopefully :)
- Fred
-----Original Message-----
From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Stiffener Confusion
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Very good reply Glen. I would like to add a few things. I just finished my
RV-9 replacement rudder for my early RV-7A.
1. Be sure to trim the stiffeners enough that they don't touch the opposite
skin near the trailing edge. This will be automatic if you draw your line
toward the center of the marker holes.
2. Use a 30 degree triangle (drafting type) to set the forward angles --
although not critical.
3. As was posted earlier, round the corners with a file until the marker
holes disappear.
4. Use Pro-Seal on the trailing edge, let it cure plenty long. AND
alternate rivet directions to keep the trailing edge straight. I didn't use Pro-Seal
and my trailing edge is "wavy." Alternating rivet directions kept this from
becoming a big curve though! But, I think Pro-Seal would have kept the
aluminum from opening up at the trailing edge. It's also possible that I countersunk
too much.
5. Just before you close up the trailing edge use some Pro-Seal to "glue"
the left and right stiffeners together. This will prevent the skin from
cracking which was a problem on some RV-6s.
I'm definitely not an expert, but this is what I wish I had done. I will do
it better next time!
Hope all this helps you get a good job. Take your time.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/7/04 10:26:39 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
microsys@alltel.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: G B <microsys@alltel.net>
>
> I did this yesterday on my RV9.
>
> I kept moving the stiffeners one hole at a time, and found out that the
> holes only
> exactly line up one way. Yes, they may appear to line up one hole off, but
> not
> really if
> you look carefully. Once the holes lined up, it was clear which end must be
> cut
> off.
>
> I reread the instructions several times, but actually playing with it
> helped.
>
> I was disappointed there was not a profile drawing of one cut stiffener!
>
> Glen
> HS, VS done
>
>
Fred Oldenburg
RV-7A - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
Message 8
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Subject: | Fw: << X PRIZE SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT - 04.08.04 >> |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>>>> X PRIZE NEWSLETTER : March 24 2004 <<<<do not archive
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Xprize.org Mailing List
Subject: << X PRIZE SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT - 04.08.04 >>
>>>> X PRIZE SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT : April 8, 2004 <<<<
BREAKING NEWS
SECOND SUCCESSFUL ROCKET-POWERED FLIGHT FOR AMERICAN SPACESHIPONE TEAM:
Hot on the heels of receiving it's FAA licence, the American SpaceShipOne
team had a perfect rocket-powered flight today, April 8, reaching an altitude
of 105,000 ft.
Behind the controls of SpaceShipOne's second successful powered flight
was pilot and future astronaut, Peter Siebold.
The engine burned for 40 seconds and reached a speed of approximately
Mach 2, making it the first privately built space vehicle to accomplish this
feat.
"105,000 feet down, 223,000 feet to go!" exclaimed an excited onlooker,
as he watched the ship fly overhead.
......................................................................................................
DONATIONS
The mission of the non-profit X PRIZE Foundation is to create
a future in which the general public will personally participate in space travel
and its benefits. But all of this requires an investment. Be a part of history.
Give to the X PRIZE.
CLICK HERE to Become a General Member for the low cost of $20
CLICK HERE to Become a Senior Associate.
CLICK HERE to help the X PRIZE via a secure donation to PayPal!
......................................................................................................
Best Wishes!
Dr. Peter H. Diamandis
Chairman/CEO
Mr. Gregg E. Maryniak
Executive Director
Mr. David Treinis
Executive Vice President for Team Relations
Angel Panlasigui
Newsletter Editor
......................................................................................................
DONATIONS
The mission of the non-profit X PRIZE Foundation is to create
a future in which the general public will personally participate in space travel
and its benefits. But all of this requires an investment. Be a part of history.
Give to the X PRIZE.
CLICK HERE to Become a General Member for the low cost of $20
CLICK HERE to Become a Senior Associate.
CLICK HERE to help the X PRIZE via a secure donation to PayPal!
......................................................................................................
UNSUBSCRIBE
To unsubscribe from the X PRIZE mailing list, please click here, enter
your email and click "unsubscribe."
Message 9
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Subject: | trim tab position |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
On my 4 I just started with a wedge of balsa wood, attached with two sided
tape. Started long...cut progressively to the right length and then painted
to match the rudder. Stays on with the double sided tape. I have mine
below the horizontal stab, and although it might not be as effective there
it is much less noticeable.
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RVEIGHTA@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: trim tab position
--> RV-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
Get some 200mph duct tape and tape the sucker on and test in different
locations. On my 8A I can get by with a shorter trim tab if I place it above
the
horizontal stab by about 6-8".
Walt Shipley
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
I flew an RV-9A with a Catto prop for a while. I will be putting one on my
RV-10.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel@blueskyaviation.net <mailto:noel@blueskyaviation.net>
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of HCRV6@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Catto Props
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
I have checked the archives and found very little information so here goes.
I am considering a Catto prop for my RV-6 and would like to hear from anyone
who has had first hand experience with these propellers, no rumors please,
just
the facts as you know them (Scott, thanks for your previous reply). Reply
on
or off the list.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Fw: << X PRIZE SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT - 04.08.04 >> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Not too shabby for a "homebuilt". KABONG (GBA)
The "CLICK HERE" 's don't work. Can you supply a link that does. Do Not
Archive
Hot on the heels of receiving it's FAA licence, the American SpaceShipOne
team had a perfect rocket-powered flight today, April 8, reaching an
altitude of 105,000 ft.
The engine burned for 40 seconds and reached a speed of approximately Mach
2, making it the first privately built space vehicle to accomplish this
feat.
The mission of the non-profit X PRIZE Foundation is to create a future in
which the general public will personally participate in space travel and its
benefits. But all of this requires an investment. Be a part of history. Give
to the X PRIZE.
> CLICK HERE to Become a General Member for the low cost
of $20
> CLICK HERE to Become a Senior Associate.
> CLICK HERE to help the X PRIZE via a secure donation to
PayPal!
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/efisd10/oat/index.
htm
is a link to the D-10 OAT installation I have done, it includes a link to a
spreadsheet showing the data from tests at 3500, 5500, 7500, and 9500 ft TAS
vs IAS Vans steam gauge vs D-10 with OAT/TAS/DA.
I installed mine in the inspection panel behind the aoa/pitot, so the wire
length was ok since my EDC-010 is in the wing leading edge.
Although this was done with a test version of their software, the latest
build, 1.09.00 includes these features.
I have also proved that the RV-6 side mounted NACA vent OAT is about four to
five degrees hotter than the wing OAT. They are both equal on the ground,
but differ in cruise flight.
W
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
with a wheel hanging off the nose?>>>>>>>>>
Wow, my students have come into class with a lot of things stuck through
their noses, ears, tounges and apparently belly buttons and other parts
south,
But hanging a wheel off of your nose has gotta hurt!!!! Even the 5x5.00
aren't that light.
do not archive
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
You're putting a fixed pitch prop on an IO-540? In a -10?
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
At 12:29 2004-04-08, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons"
><noel@blueskyaviation.net>
>
>I flew an RV-9A with a Catto prop for a while. I will be putting one on my
>RV-10.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Noel Simmons
>Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
>Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
>noel@blueskyaviation.net <mailto:noel@blueskyaviation.net>
>www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of HCRV6@aol.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Catto Props
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
>I have checked the archives and found very little information so here goes.
>I am considering a Catto prop for my RV-6 and would like to hear from anyone
>who has had first hand experience with these propellers, no rumors please,
>just
>the facts as you know them (Scott, thanks for your previous reply). Reply
>on
>or off the list.
>
>Harry Crosby
>Pleasanton, California
>RV-6, final assembly
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Photos of Dual LSE ignition installation? |
--> RV-List message posted by: RICKRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 4/5/04 1:35:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, czechsix@juno.com
writes:
> Guys,
>
> Does anyone have pics of how they installed coils and ignition leads for a
> dual Lightspeed ignition system for the BOTTOM plugs? I've seen lots of pics
> for the top plugs installation, but none for the lower ones. I'm thinking of
> hanging the coils just ahead of the sump, but that puts them close to the
> exhaust and means I have to run the coax from the igntion box around the sump
> to get to the coils. Perhaps it would be better to hang the coils behind the
> acc. case?? Any input/advice on how others have done this would be
> appreciated...
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing...
Mark,
I hung the two coils on the engine mount using adel clamps. This required
longer leads which Klaus made up for free (exchange). It's pretty straight
forward but I can send pics if you like.
Rick McBride
Message 16
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Subject: | Request engine rebuilder recommendation |
--> RV-List message posted by: JEREMY C ROBINSON <k2akwjere@juno.com>
Request a recommendation for/against Tom Waters, AIR-TEC INC,
Orlando, FL.
I am finishing up RV-6 kit # 23833 originally bought and started by
another builder.
He purchased an AIR-TEC engine in 1998 which I have installed in
the RV-6. It is a 160HP fuel injected Lycoming O-320. It has an
O-360 crankcase with O-320 cylinders.
Questions:
1. In 1998 was there a shortage of O-320 crankcases? In your
opinion, does it add or subtract anything using an O-360 crankcase?
2. What has been your experience with AIR-TEC engines, good
or bad?
Jeremy Robinson
k2akwjere@juno.com
Message 17
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Subject: | How the Dynon works |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
This is really quite simple folks,
up there in Washington there is a small hole that goes to the very center of
the universe. They have installed a small, unobtrusive wire to the very
center of the universe with an all sensing relative spatial sensor that
transmits to the other end of the wire where there is an oriented magic
node.
Then its a simple matter of installing another uniquely tuned oriented magic
node in the back of each unit that receives the data relative to the center
of the universe through the hyper space time continuum. Then the rest of the
parts just calculate the Earth's relative orientation to that of the center
of the universe and display that all on the screen in a nice format that's
easy for us dumb pilots to interpret. And because all the magic nodes are of
the spherically oriented type it doesn't matter where you are relative to
the mother magic node (ie upside down on the south pole or right side up on
the north pole).
Now the beauty of this is that once our RV's get pressurization and rocket
engines we will be able to use our D-10s in space.
Now that wasn't so hard to understand.
;{)
do not archive
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I'm surprised they only have the temp available in Celsius.....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wheeler North [mailto:wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us]
> Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 4:14 PM
> To: 'rv-list@matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon OAT
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/efis
> d10/oat/index.
> htm
>
> is a link to the D-10 OAT installation I have done, it
> includes a link to a spreadsheet showing the data from tests
> at 3500, 5500, 7500, and 9500 ft TAS vs IAS Vans steam gauge
> vs D-10 with OAT/TAS/DA.
>
> I installed mine in the inspection panel behind the
> aoa/pitot, so the wire length was ok since my EDC-010 is in
> the wing leading edge.
>
> Although this was done with a test version of their software,
> the latest build, 1.09.00 includes these features.
>
> I have also proved that the RV-6 side mounted NACA vent OAT
> is about four to five degrees hotter than the wing OAT. They
> are both equal on the ground, but differ in cruise flight.
>
> W
>
>
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: How the Dynon works |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Wheeler
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: How the Dynon works
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> This is really quite simple folks,
>
> up there in Washington there is a small hole that goes to the very center
of
> the universe.
Hmmmmmm!! Would that be the same black hole that all your tax money
disapears into?
Up here in Canada our Black hole is not at all that small.
Could it be that yours would be smaller due to this modern age of technology
what with "all sensing relative spatial sensors and magic nodes" and stuff
like that. WOW what will they think of next?!!! {[g-)
keep the good stuff coming Wheeler,
Jim in Kelowna do not archive me just yet
Message 20
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Subject: | 1995 RV-4, 160hp For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy@att.net>
I am posting for a friend. The telephone numbers are mine. Call me or
reply by email direct to me. I fly this airplane and the engine is
strong and smooth. Stu McCurdy
1995 RV-4, 0-320-E2A, 160 hp, 425 TTAF, 332 hrs Mattituck overhaul, VFR
night, KLX 135 COMM/GPS, KT76A Mode C, Sensenich, $45,000. TX (512)
388-7399/ 512- 635-5171(c).
Additional specs:
-Completed 1995
-Lycoming 0-320-E2A, 160hp, carburated
-Full Panel, AI,DG,ASI,Alt,VVI,T&B
-New vacuum pump
-Quad EGT/CHT/OilP/OilT gauge, (4 CHT selector)
-Horizon Electronic tach with total hours readout
-King KLX-135 Comm/GPS
-King KT-76A Transponder
-PC1000 Intercom
-headsets, not included
-Sensenich fixed-pitch metal prop
-Rear rudder pedals, stick
-Hooker harnesses
-Standard wheelpants
-160KTAS at 75 percent power
-Limited aerobatics capable
-Warm cabin heat
-Three fresh air vents
-Plane purchased from builder.
-Compressions 75/73/74/75
-Fresh Annual, due 4/05
-Complete, impeccable records and logbooks
-Blue and white, red trim paint; good condition
-Plane hangered at KGTU, Georgetown, TX; always hangered. No hail damage.
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Torque question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Rick, Larry Vetterman calls for a torque value of 100 to 140 inch pounds for
his exhaust nuts. He uses blow proof gaskets which are re-usable.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 Finishing Kit
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Torque question
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
> I was asked to pose this question by a friend who does not go on-line.
Reworking the exhaust system on his airplane, he wants to know the optimum
torque value applied to exhaust stud nuts on an 0-320 when using crush
gaskets. He says Lycoming will not provide this specific information
referring him to the exhaust system manufacturer (which has proved
unsucessful) and AC43 merely provides a generic torque value that most
people simply refer to.
> This gentleman is a retired flight test engineer and tends to obsess. I
said I would pose the question on forums such as this one and see what I
could come up with. What information can I relay to him?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: 1995 RV-4, 160hp For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
I have an O-320E2A in my -4 and it's only 150 HP. I'd like it to be 160 but
I heard the bearings won't take the high compression pistons. If this can
be done would you ask your friend if he knows how they got 160 hp. out of
his E2A so I can get it out of mine?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stuart B McCurdy" <sturdy@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: 1995 RV-4, 160hp For Sale
snip
Message 23
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Subject: | More fuel tank questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Listers,
Although I saw no mention of it in the plans, do we need to be sealing the vent
line, fuel pickup, and fuel drain fittings somehow? I saw in the archives that
some sealed them with proseal, but others said they would never come apart
if that was done. Is FUel lube the right thing to use? If so, which fittings
should this go on? This seems like great info for the instructions.
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Exhaust Nut Torque question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 4/8/2004 9:34:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rick6a@yahoo.com writes:
I was asked to pose this question by a friend who does not go on-line.
Reworking the exhaust system on his airplane, he wants to know the optimum torque
value applied to exhaust stud nuts on an 0-320 when using crush gaskets. He says
Lycoming will not provide this specific information referring him to the
exhaust system manufacturer (which has proved unsuccessful) and AC43 merely
provides a generic torque value that most people simply refer to.
This gentleman is a retired flight test engineer and tends to obsess. I said
I would pose the question on forums such as this one and see what I could
come up with. What information can I relay to him?
===================================
Rick-
IMO, there really is no one optimum torque value one could state, considering
the variables (exhaust system flange strength, gasket crush force required
and such). You obviously want a torque that doesn't cause distress to the
flange or studs (5/16", IIRC). Tony Bingelis in his book "ON ENGINES" recommends
a
torque range of 160 to 180 lb-in (13 to 15 lb-ft) but I have a range of 100
to 140 lb-in (8 to 12 lb-ft) listed in my POH, and I got that from somewhere
else (maybe Larry Vetterman's instructions).
I would try around 10 lb-ft to start, then inspect for leaks and retorque
after 10 or so hours at operational temps.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 685 hrs)
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: Request engine rebuilder recommendation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick Jordan" <mkejrj@erols.com>
Jeremy,
If this is the same AIR-TEC from Florida that sold me an engine about 10
years ago I suggest extreme caution. The engine I purchased was represented
to be 200 HP and overhauled with new cylinders & internals(
pistons,rings,valves,springs, etc.) and the lower end rebuilt to overhaul
standards. The engine I received looked good to my uneducated eye on receipt
but I was concerned in that there was no Data plate and the log book
contained only one entry to the effect that the engine was rebuilt for an
experimental aircraft. An A&P friend removed one cylinder to inspect and
found old parts bead blasted to look new and reinstalled. The cylinder bore
was miked and found to be worn and just passable. My friend called the
engine" a paint can overhaul".I contacted Lycoming with the serial number
which was still readable and they advised it was 180 HP.The FAA advised the
log book with the one line entry was not in violation since the engine was
for Experimental use.
My lawyer advised I had a good case but that action would have to be brought
in Florida and that the legal bill could be in excess of the engine cost.
Luck was with me in one regard. Air-Tec , at my request, put all their
initial representations and offers in a letter sent via Snail Mail. The USPS
advised that the situation described could be Mail Fraud and to send the
case to them.
I contacted Air-Tec and outlined the above and they agreed to a full refund.
The gent I corresponded with was a Dick Waters at Air-Tec.
Alls well that ends well so they say but I had a rough few months. I suggest
caution .
Dick Jordan
----- Original Message -----
From: "JEREMY C ROBINSON" <k2akwjere@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Request engine rebuilder recommendation
> --> RV-List message posted by: JEREMY C ROBINSON <k2akwjere@juno.com>
>
> Request a recommendation for/against Tom Waters, AIR-TEC INC,
> Orlando, FL.
> I am finishing up RV-6 kit # 23833 originally bought and started by
> another builder.
> He purchased an AIR-TEC engine in 1998 which I have installed in
> the RV-6. It is a 160HP fuel injected Lycoming O-320. It has an
> O-360 crankcase with O-320 cylinders.
> Questions:
> 1. In 1998 was there a shortage of O-320 crankcases? In your
> opinion, does it add or subtract anything using an O-360 crankcase?
> 2. What has been your experience with AIR-TEC engines, good
> or bad?
> Jeremy Robinson
> k2akwjere@juno.com
>
>
Message 26
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<rv-list@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Fun is the filtered air box!
The length of the FAB is determined by the ability to get the lower cowl
on and off, right? But I can't go too short, or there will be no room
for the carb heat door, right? The plans say 16.5" to start, but that
looks to be too long. It's best to have the prop on for a true cowl
on/off test, right?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 27
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Subject: | 1995 RV-4, 160hp For Sale) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
This Brings up a good point....
You can slap the 160hp pistons in most any O-320, and many people have with
no problems, but -
1) The narrow deck cases that aren't using hold-down plates have been known
to crack at the cylinder bases with the higher compression pistons. You
can't simply just "add" hold down plates to a narrow deck engine that didn't
originally use them without putting longer thru-bolts(-360 ones) in the
case.
2) The main bearings didn't change much in the cases, but the nose and
flange bearings are a bit beefier in the original 160hp ones.
3) Most of the wide deck engines have no worries about throwing in the 160hp
pistons (which are standard -360 pistons).
So, it's very feasable to get 160hp out of most any old -320 (and it's been
done to most every series), but that doesn't necessarily mean it's a great
idea! FYI, I know an engine builder who does some racing engines for the
"fast glass" crowd, and has done a number of -320's that dyno'd at
190-200hp, and -360's with 230-250hp!! These engines get into radical cam
grinding, different lifters, over 10:1 pistons, ported and flowed heads,
etc...I wouldn't want to guess about the TBO though! I've personally seen
one of those engines running 10.5:1 pistons with the cylinder blown clean
off the engine!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Anglin
Subject: Re: RV-List: 1995 RV-4, 160hp For Sale
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
I have an O-320E2A in my -4 and it's only 150 HP. I'd like it to be 160 but
I heard the bearings won't take the high compression pistons. If this can
be done would you ask your friend if he knows how they got 160 hp. out of
his E2A so I can get it out of mine?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stuart B McCurdy" <sturdy@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: 1995 RV-4, 160hp For Sale
snip
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
I'm thinking of taking a job in Austin Texas. I would be taking my project and
finishing it there. I would like to know if there are any airparks in the Austin
area? I've found a few on the web but any specific info (RV friendly, other
builders in the area) would be great. I would be working in the downtown Austin
area so I'm not looking for a big commute but would be willing if the home/airpark
were right.
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA
RV-7A QB In Progress
Message 29
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Subject: | Re: Austin Tx Info |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Boss" <bossone@cox.net>
Contact Chris Boultinghouse sonexbuilder@yahoo.com
he lives in Austin. I know that Georgetown recently expanded the airport
there (just North of Austin). I an not sure what was done with the main
airport as it was moved to the ex Air Force Base.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Austin Tx Info
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
> I'm thinking of taking a job in Austin Texas. I would be taking my project
and finishing it there. I would like to know if there are any airparks in
the Austin area? I've found a few on the web but any specific info (RV
friendly, other builders in the area) would be great. I would be working in
the downtown Austin area so I'm not looking for a big commute but would be
willing if the home/airpark were right.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Karie Daniel
> Sammamish, WA
> RV-7A QB In Progress
>
>
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