Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:29 AM - Re: Bleeding brakes (Jeff Point)
2. 12:32 AM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Jeff Point)
3. 01:59 AM - Re: Strapdown inertial navigation systems WAS: Autopilot Itch (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG))
4. 05:28 AM - Re: Bleeding brakes (Rick Galati)
5. 07:08 AM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Larry Pardue)
6. 07:09 AM - Re: Oil/gas leak out of Bendix Servo (Shemp)
7. 07:15 AM - 2 planes in one hangar? (Shemp)
8. 07:20 AM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Ron Burnett)
9. 07:34 AM - Engine overhaul? (Dave Durakovich)
10. 08:06 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (James E. Clark)
11. 08:08 AM - Wood prop... (Travis Hamblen)
12. 08:10 AM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
13. 08:15 AM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
14. 08:19 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
15. 08:19 AM - Wood prop (Travis Hamblen)
16. 08:21 AM - Re: Engine overhaul? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
17. 08:36 AM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Jeff Point)
18. 08:37 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (C. Rabaut)
19. 09:16 AM - Engine Decision-Sump Choice (Jim Thorne)
20. 09:42 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (Rick Galati)
21. 10:04 AM - Re: Wood prop (James E. Clark)
22. 10:19 AM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Louis Willig)
23. 10:39 AM - Tip Tank CG (RV6AOKC@aol.com)
24. 10:42 AM - Any RVs in DSM??? (RV6AOKC@aol.com)
25. 11:00 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (Knicholas2@aol.com)
26. 11:00 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (Knicholas2@aol.com)
27. 11:04 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (Knicholas2@aol.com)
28. 11:20 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (Shemp)
29. 11:25 AM - Brake Reservoir (Gordon Robertson)
30. 11:35 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (jerry)
31. 12:40 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Mike Nellis)
32. 12:51 PM - Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? (WHigg1170@aol.com)
33. 01:08 PM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Scott Bilinski)
34. 01:12 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (C. Rabaut)
35. 01:38 PM - Re: Engine Decision-Sump Choice (Bob Japundza)
36. 02:55 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (GMC)
37. 03:04 PM - Re: Step for RV6 (Mark/Micki Phillips)
38. 03:06 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Cy Galley)
39. 03:23 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (C. Rabaut)
40. 03:43 PM - Fuel pressure gauge for sale (Travis Hamblen)
41. 04:00 PM - No RV-10 at SnF (Shemp)
42. 04:21 PM - Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? (Neil Henderson)
43. 04:45 PM - RV-3 for sale (Bruce Meacham)
44. 05:04 PM - Rude Pilot (Mickey & Paula)
45. 05:07 PM - Re: Engine overhaul? (Dale Walker)
46. 05:20 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Cy Galley)
47. 05:24 PM - Re: Engine overhaul? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
48. 05:31 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (C. Rabaut)
49. 05:46 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
50. 05:50 PM - Re: Wood prop (Jerry Springer)
51. 05:53 PM - Re: Engine overhaul? (Richard McCraw)
52. 05:54 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
53. 05:58 PM - Re: No RV-10 at SnF (Brian Kraut)
54. 06:16 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Larry Bowen)
55. 07:23 PM - Cylinder Work... (Bill VonDane)
56. 07:29 PM - Re: No RV-10 at SnF (Finn Lassen)
57. 07:36 PM - Re: Cylinder Work... (SCOTT MORGAN)
58. 08:54 PM - Re: No RV-10 at SnF (Dj Merrill)
59. 08:54 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Mike Nellis)
60. 09:04 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Mike Nellis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the can (full of
brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. Attach a fitting
w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a jar. Open the
bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
(which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and try the brakes
w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and requires only one
person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and don't let the
oil can run dry.
Jeff Point
RV-6 14 hours
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I have the same setup as Mike (actually, mine is right-side-up) and I
like it. I did have to move a few of the spacers around to get the
reservoirs to miss each other, but they now clear by a good 1/4 inch.
The stock reservoir and lines look awfully leak prone, and I heard
enough horror stories about them to do it this way.
Jeff Point
RV-6 14 hours
Milwaukee WI
Message 3
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| Subject: | Strapdown inertial navigation systems WAS: Autopilot Itch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
Our email server has been out over Easter, although it seems to be
working again now. I *know* that some of my incoming email has been lost
:-(. So I may have missed replies to Trampas's message. Anyway, here's
my reply...
> So the first step is to measure the angle of the plane. There are two
simple
> ways to do this one is the magnometer which measures earth's magnetic
field,
> however if you are near a hanger this could be off.
That would be a magnetometer, right?
A little-understood fact is that the Earth's magnetic field dips at
various angles, depending where you are on it (round here, it dips at 60
degrees). So, to use a single magnetometer to measure angle, you need to
know where you are, and which way you're facing. You can use 3
orthogonal magnetometers... then you just need to know where you are.
Note that since the magnetic field is characterised as a vector, you
can't measure any rolling about the vector using just magnetometers.
> The second is an inclinometer...
This will work fine whilst on the ground and not accelerating (ie not
turning).
> Ok back to the problem so on the ground we will measure the pitch and
roll using
> two inclinometers. Now we can reset our rate gyros and life is good,
note we are
> assuming plane is upright which is a fair assumption on the ground...
Yup, OK so far.
> Now we take off and the rate gyros have errors in them so at some
point we need
> to reset them. Well if we assume that we still have the inclinometer
then we could
> reset them when the inclinometers are level. However this will not
work as that we
> could be in a banked turn which could throw the inclinometers off.
Yup. An unbanked turn would be even worse.
> So now we to know when we can reset the gyros, which will be basically
when we only
> have gravity vector (and lift hopefully) acting on the plane.
Actually, any time when the nature of the aircraft's motion is known.
However, for practical purpose, this is basically straight and level
flight.
> So we look at the gyros and say yes there is some error but does it
say all forces
> are zero, if so then it might be a good time to reset. Now if we also
look at our
> magnometer (aka compass sensors) and see if we have been flying
straight then we can
> be fairly sure it is a good time to reset. That is we are not in a
long banked turn.
I agree... My guess is that the combination of accelerometers and
magnetometers is used to detect S&L... if total acceleration force is 1G
towards the wheels, and the magnetometer readings aren't changing, then
I guess it's pretty safe to assume S&L. Either that, or the pilot is
executing a perfect 1G roll about the magnetic vector. Assuming flying
due magnetic north or south, that would mean a pitch attitude of 60deg
up or down, and a roll about the aicraft centreline. Flying east/west,
it implies loops, maintaining 1G. In any other direction, some kind of
wierd half-roll, half-loop. Although the due north case is possibly
doable in an RV, *I* certainly wouldn't be able to keep it up for long!
> Well this works well as long as we are upright, which is not a fair
assumption in
> the air. Therefore we need to have a sensor, a simple mercury switch
that tells
> us if we are upright are not. Actually the inclinometers may have this
feature included.
Whoa!! A mercury switch won't tell you whether you're upright or not. If
you execute a loop and maintain positive G all the way, the mercury
switch won't switch.
> Well this would work quite well depending on the error rate of the
gyros, well if we
> also had the velocity of the plane we could compensate for some of the
gyro errors. That
> is if we know we are going 100knts and turning we can get an idea of
what the gyros
> should read. So lets add air speed into the mix as well.
Whoa again! Air speed is not velocity. I guess you could get velocity
from GPS though.
Sensing another parameter such as altitude or maybe airspeed would
narrow down the circulmstances where drift would occur... fly due
magnetic north, pitch up 60deg, roll 1G about the aicraft centreline
whilst not changing altitude might I guess be theoretically possible
(for a moment or two), but I think that flying due magnetic north, pitch
up 60deg, roll 1G whilst not changing altitude OR AIRSPEED would be
completely impossible in an RV. Maybe in an F-22? So throw in something
to measure engine power as well!
> Then we derive equations for our outputs, then we apply these
equations using a signal
> processing method called a Kalman filter. This will basically keep the
system reset all
> the time and provide us with our outputs. We also add some sanity
checks to see if the
> data is in left field and basically ship the product. That is the
magic is actually in
> the filtering algorithm for the data.
I'm familiar with digital filtering, but not Kalman filters
specifically, so I'm not sure how they would help in keeping the system
straight. My approach would be as I've outlined above... detect when the
aircraft is *probably* S&L, and then reset the drift in the gyros. Some
digital filters to keep the way-out numbers out of the calculations.
After all, typically you only want an autopilot to work properly when
you're spending most of your time in S&L flight. If you're doing
hard-out maneuvring like aerobatics, the pilot is responsible for
judging where the horizon is. Dunno how well you would expect an
autopilot to work whilst inside a turbulent cloud, but I would
expect/hope that that would be only for limited time, so the drift
wouldn't be too significant.
> I would also guess that they use temperature inside their box as well
to compensate the
> gyros but again this is only a WAG.
I'd guess that that wouldn't be necessary... the box is in the cockpit,
where temperatures are kept within a reasonable range.
> If someone wants to pay me to do it I will even make an attempt to see
if this system would actually work. :)
Me too! :-)
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Jeff,
I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you outlined
using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir
fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a week or
more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high point in
the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the bleeding process,
l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always making sure
the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process.
Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after several days, the
bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them, the bubbles merely
migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like to see no bubbles
at all in the lines at any time, what am I
overlooking.......thoughts?
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the can (full of
brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. Attach a fitting
w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a jar. Open the
bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
(which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and try the brakes
w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and requires only one
person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and don't let the
oil can run dry.
Jeff Point
RV-6 14 hours
Milwaukee
---------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
on 4/13/04 6:27 AM, Rick Galati at rick6a@yahoo.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
> Jeff,
>
> I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you
> outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the
> reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a
> week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high
> point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do.
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
It sounds like you have a leak in the system.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Oil/gas leak out of Bendix Servo |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Yep, it was somewhat pickled for 6 years. It wasnt sealed but it did have a
lot of preservative oil in it.
I only have a hole inside the filter now. I never thought to put a second
one. Thanks for the tip.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6a/ 52 hours
Chicago/ Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil/gas leak out of Bendix Servo
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
> > Im wondering if anyone has seen this before.
> >
> > I have a Bendix fi servo and Ive noticed some liquid seeping
> > out of the bottom of the servo on the top of the fab mounting
> > plate upon shutdown. The air cleaner also seems awful dark
> > looking thru the fiberglass, oil? I call it a "liquid"
> > because I cant determine what it is. It seems to be a mix of
> > oil and fuel but I gave up on my rotax a long time ago:) Its
> > a blueish thick oilly mess. It also drips out of the bottom
> > of the fab. I dont know what to make of it.
>
> Was your engine pickled prior to being started? If so, I suspect what
> you are finding is induction oil from the pickling that is being washed
> down to the FAB with priming. It seems that mine did that for a couple
> hundred hours. The pickling oil sort of turns waxy, and does not run or
> weep by itself. Since no fuel is being sucked up the induction system,
> the only time it gets washed is by prime running down.
>
> Do you have small holes on the bottom of the FAB, both inside and
> outside the filter? The hole inside will drain the goo you talk about,
> and the hole outside will drain water. I found that the oily stuff
> attacks the fiberglass of the FAB, and after about 400 hours I needed to
> put some new layers of glass on the bottom inside of the FAB. You may
> want to proseal on a fitting on the hole which is inside the filter, and
> connect it to a little drain line to bring the slime to the back of the
> cooling air exit. Otherwise, it seems to lubricate the nose gear
> fairing. Don't use any fitting which will have a part inside the
> filter!
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 454 hours
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | 2 planes in one hangar? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with a small-ish
high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is in
Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3 billion
years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current renters
with an offer he cant refuse :)
Jeff Dowling
RV-6a/ 52 hours
Chicago/ Louisville
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Burnett" <smileyburnett@charter.net>
Does this eliminate all the lines in a single brake system and what about
dual brakes?
Ron Burnett
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Reservoir
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
> I have the same setup as Mike (actually, mine is right-side-up) and I
> like it. I did have to move a few of the spacers around to get the
> reservoirs to miss each other, but they now clear by a good 1/4 inch.
> The stock reservoir and lines look awfully leak prone, and I heard
> enough horror stories about them to do it this way.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 14 hours
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Engine overhaul? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Durakovich <ddurakovich@yahoo.com>
Getting ready to redo a Lyc. O-360 for an RV-4, and would like local (or thereabouts)
folks to work with if possible. I'm in Detroit, and I consider most of
the mid-west as well as Western NY and PA as local.
Pretty much going to do it all, and prefer to do it myself (disassembly/asembly/maybe
the accessories), so any reccomendations for bottom end, case, and cylinder
guys would be appreciated.
I've already talked to G&N about doing a bottom end only and they politely declined
- an insurance thing.
Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN?
Thanks,
Dave Durakovich
---------------------------------
Message 10
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| Subject: | 2 planes in one hangar? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
I have seen two RV6's in a single hangar. Small ramp to facilitate wing
overlap. "Twas CLOSE.
So *maybe* it could work.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shemp
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 10:15 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar?
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard"
> hangar with a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I
> would like to keep her is in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD,
> and has a waiting list of about 3 billion years. If it would
> fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current renters with
> an offer he cant refuse :)
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6a/ 52 hours
> Chicago/ Louisville
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who
have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted
black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the front and
I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility
through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is it just for
looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop refinished
would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of a wood prop
so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba prop (68x76 on
my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I
have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be
having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things
about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated.
Travis
RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 4/13/04 7:30:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
rick6a@yahoo.com writes:
> Jeff,
>
> I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you
> outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the
> reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a
> week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high
> point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both
> left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the
> bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always
> making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop
> the process. Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them,
> the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way
> to judge brake effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like
> to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, what am I
> overlooking.......thoughts?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Rick,
Whoops! Please excuse the empty post.
The air is probably not all out of the system. Maybe there are some small
bubbles still trapped that finally collect at the highest point. I doubt if air
is leaking in. Can you pull down on the plastic hoses, maybe tape them down
temporarily, so that the air can escape up into the reservoir?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/13/04 7:30:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
rick6a@yahoo.com writes:
> Jeff,
>
> I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you
> outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the
> reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a
> week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high
> point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both
> left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the
> bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always
> making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop
> the process. Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them,
> the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way
> to judge brake effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like
> to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, what am I
> overlooking.......thoughts?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Jeff,
If your tail is low enough to go under the wing of the high wing it will
probably fit. If the tail is low enough, make some scale "paper dolls" and try
it
on paper.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (still almost done)
In a message dated 4/13/04 9:21:41 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
shempdowling@earthlink.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with
> a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is
> in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3
> billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current
> renters with an offer he cant refuse :)
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6a/ 52 hours
> Chicago/ Louisville
>
>
>
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who
have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted
black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the front and
I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility
through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is it just for
looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop refinished
would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of a wood prop
so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba prop (68x76 on
my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I
have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be
having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things
about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated.
Travis
RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Engine overhaul? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 4/13/04 9:35:11 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
ddurakovich@yahoo.com writes:
>
> Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Durakovich
>
Dave,
Harrison does only cylinders, I'm pretty sure.
You're lucky G&N declined!
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Yes, it eliminates all the lines in you go single brake. If using dual,
I would put the reservoirs on the pax side and run lines from the pax to
the pilots side, thus eliminating one set of lines.
Jeff Point
>Does this eliminate all the lines in a single brake system and what about
>dual brakes?
>Ron Burnett
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Jeff,
It will likely fit. I've done this several times, when I've had RV's
visiting me (I just slip them into a friend's hanger with his Cessna 175).
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Shemp <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar
with a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep
her is in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of
about 3 billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of
the current renters with an offer he cant refuse :)
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6a/ 52 hours
> Chicago/ Louisville
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Engine Decision-Sump Choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Thorne" <rv7a@cox.net>
I've decided to go with an ECI or Superior O-360 Clone with fuel injection and
dual electronic ignition, Plasma II Plus and a Plasma III. The final decision
is the sump. Other than the lack of scoop is there any advantage to the horizontal
sump to offset the added cost? Can you obtain any "Ram Air" effect with
the Van's cowl?
Jim Thorne
RV-7A QB
CHD
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Jeff,
I share an approximately 43'X43' hangar that houses my C-150, a hangarmate's 172
and my unfinished RV-6A. Full to be sure but they all fit. The wings of the
172 will pass over the canopy of my 6A, but not so with my 150, but just barely.
When my 150 happens to be spotted next to the RV, and I want to go flying,
I have to put a blanket over the roll bar to keep from scratching the paint
on the lower surface of the wing of the 150 as it slides over the top of the RV's
roll bar (the windshield is not yet attached). If someone is available, I
simply have them lift the wing slightly so that it clears the RV as I push or
pull the 150 into or out of the hangar to clear the RV. Its a minor aggravation,
but it works.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with
> a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is
> in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3
> billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current
> renters with an offer he cant refuse :)
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6a/ 52 hours
> Chicago/ Louisville
---------------------------------
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
We have an Ed Sterba prop on our O-320 RV6 as well. A couple of things to
consider ...
I recall Ed saying that paint imbalance can cause vibrations in the prop.
Never mind ... I see you are having a shop do it that does this all the
time.
Many props are BLACK on the back so as to *not* reflect light from the
STROBES. Making it white might be problematic.
On a different note, what kind of performance do you get with this combo???
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Travis Hamblen
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 11:19 AM
> To: RV-List@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wood prop
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
>
> I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who
> have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted
> black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the
> front and
> I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility
> through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is
> it just for
> looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop
> refinished
> would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of
> a wood prop
> so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba
> prop (68x76 on
> my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I
> have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be
> having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things
> about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated.
>
>
> Travis
>
> RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
>
> >
> > I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you
> > outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the
> > reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days
> to a
> > week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at
> the high
> > point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do.
>
>
> >
> > Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> >
>
>
>It sounds like you have a leak in the system.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
Larry & Rick,
My old RV-4 couldn't be bled properly using any conceivable method
suggested. There was always a one to two inch bubble in the upper loop or
down by the wheel cylinder fitting. I finally ended up loosening the
fitting on the wheel cylinder(just barely), and pressed down on the brake
pedal to squeeze the air out. Later I loosened a fitting up near the master
cylinder. It seems that, sometimes, there are loops and crannies that allow
fluid to be pumped right by them. My current -4 seems to bleed very easily
using the "oil can" or pressure bleeder that is standard in most shops. Go
figure...
PS... These bubbles never seemed to affect the feel or braking ability of
the aircraft. Go figure that, too...
Louis
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF ("Miss Viagra")
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
Question for those with Vans/Jon J. Tip Tanks....for figuring CG when gas is
in the tanks, what do you use for an arm distance for figuring CG???
I wrote vans and they replied with:
"Jon J says the cg is 27.8" aft of the wing LE. The normal fuel cg is
only 10" behind, so adding fuel to the tip tanks will move the cg
further aft."
I guess the normal arm for main tank fuel is 70 in. So would the tip tank
arm be about 87.8 in ? (17.8 in further aft than main tanks)
Just wanted to see if this sound about right to you guys who may have been
there done that.....
Kurt in OKC
Do Not Archive
Message 24
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| Subject: | Any RVs in DSM??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
Im going to be in DSM all day on saturday on a lay over with the airline I
work for....if any RVer's in the area have a flying 6 or 6A I'll buy the gas!!!
Otherwise I'm stuck with watching cable in the hotel room!!! =)
Kurt Klewin, OKC, OK
6A...almost done!!!
Do Not Archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
A friend just installed an aero-lift in his hanger. (www.ArmAerospace.com)
It is very cool although it makes me nervous seeing a beautiful Mooney
houvering over a beautiful Beech. Appartently the insurance companies are ok with
it
because it did not affect his rates. ...yet another option..
Kim Nicholas
Seattle - RV9A. Almost done!!!!!
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
How tall is the hangar?
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
> A friend just installed an aero-lift in his hanger. (www.ArmAerospace.com)
> It is very cool although it makes me nervous seeing a beautiful Mooney
> houvering over a beautiful Beech. Appartently the insurance companies are
ok with it
> because it did not affect his rates. ...yet another option..
>
> Kim Nicholas
> Seattle - RV9A. Almost done!!!!!
>
>
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Robertson" <grobertson@verizon.net>
>>Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted
on each
>>master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it
this
>>way and what are your thoughts/
I have done this on my RV-8. At first I thought it was a great idea, save
hoses, chances of leakage, etc. But now I am not so sure. The first thing
is that it restricts the travel of the pedals somewhat, the reservoir
contacts the firewall if the pedals are adjusted fully forward. I have
tried to think of ways to put the reservoir at the side of the pedal, but no
luck. I have not made the final decision just yet, but you should check
your clearances.
Gordon Robertson
RV-8 waiting for engine
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: 2 planes in one hangar? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "jerry" <jerry@mc.net>
Jeff ...
I have a hangar at The Landings airport near I90/Rt47 which is just SE of
Huntley IL. There will be a vacancy May 1. I'm looking for the RV type
tenant. I am planning an RV10 to be built in the loft of this hangar. The
hangar is 44'x37' on the main floor plus my workshop loft 17'x30'. We
typically get a Mooney and a C172 in these hangars with the Mooney in the
back. Let me know if this would work for you. Rent of $225 and you would
be the only tenant May 1. I'll be looking for one or two other RV type
tenants as well.
Jerry Grimmonpre
RV10 in the future
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar
with a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep
her is in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of
about 3 billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of
the current renters with an offer he cant refuse :)
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6a/ 52 hours
> Chicago/ Louisville
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea
it might be an interesting investment.
http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
*** -----Original Message-----
*** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
*** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
*** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
*** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com
*** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
***
***
*** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
***
*** Jeff,
***
*** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
*** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
*** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
*** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
*** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
*** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
*** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
*** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
*** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
*** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
*** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
*** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
*** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
*** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
*** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
*** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
*** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
*** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
***
*** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
***
***
*** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
*** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
*** can (full of
*** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
*** Attach a fitting
*** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
*** jar. Open the
*** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
*** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
*** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
*** try the brakes
*** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
*** requires only one
*** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
*** don't let the
*** oil can run dry.
***
*** Jeff Point
*** RV-6 14 hours
*** Milwaukee
***
***
***
*** ---------------------------------
***
***
*** ==============
*** Matronics Forums.
*** ==============
*** ==============
*** ==============
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: WHigg1170@aol.com
Yes, I did. Right after I wrote the e mail just for the heck of it I checked
it with a magnet and it was made of stainless steal.
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I to put the reservoirs at the side of the pedals and no go. I moved them
to the fire wall between the pedals just below the baggage compartment
floor. I can add fluid by the access cover in the baggage compartment floor
which is 1/4 inch above the reservoirs. Oh, this is on an 8a.
At 02:21 PM 4/13/04 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Robertson" <grobertson@verizon.net>
>
>>>Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted
>on each
>>>master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it
>this
>>>way and what are your thoughts/
>
>
>I have done this on my RV-8. At first I thought it was a great idea, save
>hoses, chances of leakage, etc. But now I am not so sure. The first thing
>is that it restricts the travel of the pedals somewhat, the reservoir
>contacts the firewall if the pedals are adjusted fully forward. I have
>tried to think of ways to put the reservoir at the side of the pedal, but no
>luck. I have not made the final decision just yet, but you should check
>your clearances.
>
>Gordon Robertson
>
>RV-8 waiting for engine
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Mike,
That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to order... they don't
list my RV-4.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Nellis <mike@bmnellis.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
>
> Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea
> it might be an interesting investment.
> http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
>
> Mike Nellis
> RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> http://bmnellis.com
>
> *** -----Original Message-----
> *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
> *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
> *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com
> *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> ***
> ***
> *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
> ***
> *** Jeff,
> ***
> *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
> *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
> *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
> *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
> *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
> *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
> *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
> *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
> *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
> *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
> *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
> *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
> *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
> *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
> *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
> *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
> *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
> ***
> *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> ***
> ***
> *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
> *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
> *** can (full of
> *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
> *** Attach a fitting
> *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
> *** jar. Open the
> *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
> *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
> *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
> *** try the brakes
> *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
> *** requires only one
> *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
> *** don't let the
> *** oil can run dry.
> ***
> *** Jeff Point
> *** RV-6 14 hours
> *** Milwaukee
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *** ---------------------------------
> ***
> ***
> *** ==============
> *** Matronics Forums.
> *** ==============
> *** ==============
> *** ==============
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Engine Decision-Sump Choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Japundza <bjapundza@yahoo.com>
Jim,
Talk to Larry Vetterman--he has one of the new plastic sumps on his RV-4 and has
a lot of good things to say about it. Hopping up a Lyc. without modifying or
replacing the sump is a wasted effort IMO. In order to get more power out of
these engines you have to get them to swallow more air and fuel, and improving
the induction system is one thing you have to do in order to get those results.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying 500+ hours
F1 QB under const. - highly modified sump and RSA-10 servo
---------------------------------
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@uniserve.com>
>
> I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure
you
> outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the
> reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
a
> week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the
high
> point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do.
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
Relax Gents
Dual brakes on my 6A. During first filling I had no bubbles, then when
drained for servicing and subsequent refill there was no way to eliminate
the bubbles. I believe that is due to the slippery residue inside the lines,
the brake fluid goes around the bubbles leaving them at the high spots.
I tried regular oil can filling, pressure pot refilling from bottom and also
tried a vacuum pump at reservoir with suction filling from below, no way
could I eliminate seeing bubbles in brake line. Maybe I should paint the
lines black to avoid seeing bubbles!
Anyway my brakes have operated satisfactorily with bubbles at the high spots
for 260+ hrs.
George in Langley
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Step for RV6 |
BAYES_00 -4.90, ST_bw_chat 0.50)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
Paul, I got a pair, give ya a good deal, primed with variprime. Do not
archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: Step for RV6
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
>
> Has anybody ever put a step on an RV-6 (not -6A). I need to put one on my
already built -6.
>
> Paul
>
>
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up to pump fluid out
of the wheel cylinder top by pressure from the master cylinder.
Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in the bottom of the
cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in the opposite direction into the
bottom up thru the master cylinder.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
>
> Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea
> it might be an interesting investment.
> http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
>
> Mike Nellis
> RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> http://bmnellis.com
>
> *** -----Original Message-----
> *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
> *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
> *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com
> *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> ***
> ***
> *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
> ***
> *** Jeff,
> ***
> *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
> *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
> *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
> *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
> *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
> *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
> *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
> *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
> *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
> *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
> *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
> *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
> *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
> *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
> *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
> *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
> *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
> ***
> *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> ***
> ***
> *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
> *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
> *** can (full of
> *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
> *** Attach a fitting
> *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
> *** jar. Open the
> *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
> *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
> *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
> *** try the brakes
> *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
> *** requires only one
> *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
> *** don't let the
> *** oil can run dry.
> ***
> *** Jeff Point
> *** RV-6 14 hours
> *** Milwaukee
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *** ---------------------------------
> ***
> ***
> *** ==============
> *** Matronics Forums.
> *** ==============
> *** ==============
> *** ==============
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
> ***
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
I dis-agree.
It seems to me that the motorcycle hydraulic brakes system is set up almost
identical to our system, especially those of us who have installed the
reservoir on the master cylinder.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley@QCBC.ORG>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up to pump fluid
out
> of the wheel cylinder top by pressure from the master cylinder.
>
> Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in the bottom of
the
> cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in the opposite direction into the
> bottom up thru the master cylinder.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
> >
> > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At
$10/ea
> > it might be an interesting investment.
> > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
> >
> > Mike Nellis
> > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> > http://bmnellis.com
> >
> > *** -----Original Message-----
> > *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
> > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
> > *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com
> > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
> > ***
> > *** Jeff,
> > ***
> > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
> > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
> > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
> > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
> > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
> > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
> > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
> > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
> > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
> > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
> > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
> > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
> > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
> > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
> > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
> > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
> > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
> > ***
> > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
> > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
> > *** can (full of
> > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
> > *** Attach a fitting
> > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
> > *** jar. Open the
> > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
> > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
> > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
> > *** try the brakes
> > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
> > *** requires only one
> > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
> > *** don't let the
> > *** oil can run dry.
> > ***
> > *** Jeff Point
> > *** RV-6 14 hours
> > *** Milwaukee
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** ---------------------------------
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** ==============
> > *** Matronics Forums.
> > *** ==============
> > *** ==============
> > *** ==============
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> >
> >
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Fuel pressure gauge for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
I have a Mitchell fuel pressure gauge for sale. It is in PERFECT condition,
just went to a different system so I don=92t need this one. I have pictures
available and whoever buys this can rest assured that it works perfectly. I
still have the box it came in, bubble wrap it was wrapped in and the receipt
from Aircraft Spruce. I will give you everything. It is part number
10-10152 at Aircraft Spruce (Mitchell part number D1-211-6064) and is $89.00
plus shipping was $7.47 for a total of $96.47. I will sell it to you for
$65.00 which INCLUDES SHIPPING! I can accept credit card payments if
necessary. This is a good deal for a fellow RV owner. E-mail me to make
arrangements.
Travis Hamblen
HYPERLINK "mailto:TravisHamblen@cox.net"TravisHamblen@cox.net
RV-6A @ VGT
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
Message 41
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some problems
on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door latch maybe.....
Jeff
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
Bill
I think you will find the standard support bar that is supplied by Van's is non
magnetic.
Neil Henderson RV9-A
Message 43
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Meacham" <bruce_meacham@hotmail.com>
See add as posted on Barnstormers for pictures:
http://www.barnstormers.com/listing.php?id34843
RV-3 '91 610 TTAE 50 STOH (Mattituck), O-320 E2C 150hp immaculate. New paint job,
Dynon EFIS, Micro Monitor, Garmin 195, Becker 4201 Comm, mode-c transponder,
night equipped, a true 10/10! Earnest money required. $31,500 Contact: Brock
Vaughn - located Bedford, MA USA Telephone: 781-354-6656 or Bruce Meacham (978)-557-9378
Message 44
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mickey & Paula" <mimartin@sweetwaterhsa.com>
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Re: Engine overhaul? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Walker <davawalker@nwboronet.com>
At 07:33 AM 4/13/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Durakovich <ddurakovich@yahoo.com>
>
>Getting ready to redo a Lyc. O-360 for an RV-4, and would like local (or
>thereabouts)
>folks to work with if possible. I'm in Detroit, and I consider most of
>the mid-west as well as Western NY and PA as local.
>
>Pretty much going to do it all, and prefer to do it myself
>(disassembly/asembly/maybe
>the accessories), so any reccomendations for bottom end, case, and cylinder
>guys would be appreciated.
>
>I've already talked to G&N about doing a bottom end only and they politely
>declined - an insurance thing.
>
>Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dave Durakovich
>
>Dave, In my experience they do a very,very poor job on cylinders.
Dale Walker-RV7
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
You can't use any of them as the threads are METRIC not SAE!
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
> Mike,
>
> That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to order... they don't
> list my RV-4.
>
> Chuck
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mike Nellis <mike@bmnellis.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
> >
> > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At
$10/ea
> > it might be an interesting investment.
> > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
> >
> > Mike Nellis
> > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> > http://bmnellis.com
> >
> > *** -----Original Message-----
> > *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
> > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
> > *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com
> > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
> > ***
> > *** Jeff,
> > ***
> > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
> > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
> > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
> > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
> > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
> > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
> > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
> > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
> > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
> > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
> > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
> > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
> > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
> > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
> > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
> > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
> > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
> > ***
> > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
> > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
> > *** can (full of
> > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
> > *** Attach a fitting
> > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
> > *** jar. Open the
> > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
> > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out
> > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
> > *** try the brakes
> > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
> > *** requires only one
> > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
> > *** don't let the
> > *** oil can run dry.
> > ***
> > *** Jeff Point
> > *** RV-6 14 hours
> > *** Milwaukee
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** ---------------------------------
> > ***
> > ***
> > *** ==============
> > *** Matronics Forums.
> > *** ==============
> > *** ==============
> > *** ==============
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> >
> >
>
>
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Re: Engine overhaul? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Dave,
My friend and instructor had his Warrior overhauled by:
Kline Aviation
8725 Crego Rd.
Brooklyn MI 49230
517-592-2316
He has done several engines around here and everyone has been happy with his
work.
Dan Hopper
Near Peru, IN
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/13/04 9:35:11 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
ddurakovich@yahoo.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Durakovich <ddurakovich@yahoo.com>
>
> Getting ready to redo a Lyc. O-360 for an RV-4, and would like local (or
> thereabouts)
> folks to work with if possible. I'm in Detroit, and I consider most of
> the mid-west as well as Western NY and PA as local.
>
> Pretty much going to do it all, and prefer to do it myself
> (disassembly/asembly/maybe
> the accessories), so any reccomendations for bottom end, case, and cylinder
> guys would be appreciated.
>
> I've already talked to G&N about doing a bottom end only and they politely
> declined - an insurance thing.
>
> Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Durakovich
>
>
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
...ah you are correct!
----- Original Message -----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley@QCBC.ORG>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> You can't use any of them as the threads are METRIC not SAE!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >
> > Mike,
> >
> > That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to order... they
don't
> > list my RV-4.
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Mike Nellis <mike@bmnellis.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
> > >
> > > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At
> $10/ea
> > > it might be an interesting investment.
> > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
> > >
> > > Mike Nellis
> > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> > > http://bmnellis.com
> > >
> > > *** -----Original Message-----
> > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Galati
> > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
> > > *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com
> > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
> > > ***
> > > *** Jeff,
> > > ***
> > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
> > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
> > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
> > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
> > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
> > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
> > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
> > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
> > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
> > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
> > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
> > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
> > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
> > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
> > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
> > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
> > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
> > > ***
> > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store
> > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
> > > *** can (full of
> > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
> > > *** Attach a fitting
> > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
> > > *** jar. Open the
> > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the
> > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is
out
> > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
> > > *** try the brakes
> > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
> > > *** requires only one
> > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
> > > *** don't let the
> > > *** oil can run dry.
> > > ***
> > > *** Jeff Point
> > > *** RV-6 14 hours
> > > *** Milwaukee
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > *** ---------------------------------
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > *** ==============
> > > *** Matronics Forums.
> > > *** ==============
> > > *** ==============
> > > *** ==============
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Rick,
If the bubbles reappear, you may be pumping air into the system with a leaky
pump.
If you can use higher pressure and make the fluid flow faster, I would think
that you could push the air into the reservoir and not have it reappear. Put
a line on the reservoir to catch all that fluid! You need to get that air
out, or the right side brakes won't work right.
Another idea is to raise the right wing as much as possible to avoid downhill
runs of fluid while you're pumping fluid in.
I think the problem is that the lines are 1/4 inch. Smaller lines would work
fine and would not allow the fluid to pass under the air at the high points
like the large lines do. Most cars use 3/16 brake lines. Smaller lines also
can also handle higher pressure at the same wall thickness.
I was off base when I suggested lowering the high points. I will probably
have the same problem when I try to bleed mine.
There's some more ideas. Hope something helps.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done and headed to S-n-F tomorrow my RV-wanna-be a Grumman
AA1-C)
In a message dated 4/13/04 7:30:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
rick6a@yahoo.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
> Jeff,
>
> I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you
> outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the
> reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a
> week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high
> point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both
> left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the
> bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always
> making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop
> the process. Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them,
> the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way
> to judge brake effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like
> to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, what am I
> overlooking.......thoughts?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
Message 50
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Travis Hamblen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
>
>I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who
>have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted
>black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the front and
>I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility
>through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is it just for
>looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop refinished
>would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of a wood prop
>so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba prop (68x76 on
>my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I
>have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be
>having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things
>about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated.
>
>
>Travis
>
>RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs
>
>
>
If you ever try to land with the sun at your back in the late afternoon
you well see why the back of the prop
is painted black. It is like a big mirror.
Jerry
Message 51
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| Subject: | Engine overhaul? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard McCraw" <rmccraw@wcvt.com>
Penn Yan Aero in upstate New York (KPEO) has been in business for a long
time and has a good reputation in these parts. I've met the owner and came
away with a positive impression
Rick
RV-7, empennage in the box
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Rick,
I had another bright(?) idea. Take the bottom bolts out of the right side
master cylinders and tip them up while bleeding. Wouldn't this eliminate the
downhill run?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
Message 53
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
that is what they told me at the booth today
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shemp
Subject: RV-List: No RV-10 at SnF
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some
problems on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door
latch maybe.....
Jeff
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Has anyone tried the all-in-one matco brakes, the MC5? No remote or
external reservoir needed.
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/cgi-bin/frame/frame-aircraft.cgi?URL=/Aircr
aft/Brakes/MasterCylinders.html
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C. Rabaut [mailto:crabaut@coalinga.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 6:23 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
> I dis-agree.
> It seems to me that the motorcycle hydraulic brakes system is
> set up almost identical to our system, especially those of us
> who have installed the reservoir on the master cylinder.
>
> Chuck
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Cy Galley <cgalley@QCBC.ORG>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> > Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up to pump
> > fluid
> out
> > of the wheel cylinder top by pressure from the master cylinder.
> >
> > Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in
> the bottom
> > of
> the
> > cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in the opposite
> direction into
> > the bottom up thru the master cylinder.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
> > >
> > > Here's something that might work for one person brake
> bleeding. At
> $10/ea
> > > it might be an interesting investment.
> > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
> > >
> > > Mike Nellis
> > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> > > http://bmnellis.com
> > >
> > > *** -----Original Message-----
> > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> > > Galati
> > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
> > > *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com
> > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
> > > ***
> > > *** Jeff,
> > > ***
> > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
> > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
> > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
> > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
> > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
> > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
> > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
> > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
> > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
> > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
> > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
> > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
> > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
> > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
> > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
> > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
> > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
> > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
> > > ***
> > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
> > > ***
> > > ***
> > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a
> hardware store
> > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
> > > *** can (full of
> > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
> > > *** Attach a fitting
> > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
> > > *** jar. Open the
> > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid
> comes out at the
> > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied
> the air is out
> > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
> > > *** try the brakes
> > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
> > > *** requires only one
> > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
> > > *** don't let the
> > > *** oil can run dry.
> > > ***
> > > *** Jeff Point
> > > *** RV-6 14 hours
> > > *** Milwaukee
Message 55
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"vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Cylinder Work... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Any recommendations on where to send my cylinders?
I need an exhaust port welded on one, new exhaust guides in 3, seats ground and
a light hone on all 4...
Oh, and did I mention I'm on a budget? ;)
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: No RV-10 at SnF |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
You mean you can't use the doors in the RV-10 as extra wings? :)
Finn
Shemp wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
>I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some problems
on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door latch
maybe.....
>
>Jeff
>
>
>
>
Message 57
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Work... |
--> RV-List message posted by: SCOTT MORGAN <sdmorgan@prodigy.net>
Gibson Aviation
El Reno OK
The have an ad in TAP every month. I have sent cyls over the years.
Very reputable shop with integrity.
Ask for Marshall.
Regards,
Scott
--- Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
>
> Any recommendations on where to send my cylinders?
>
> I need an exhaust port welded on one, new exhaust guides in 3, seats
> ground and a light hone on all 4...
>
> Oh, and did I mention I'm on a budget? ;)
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - Colorado
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: No RV-10 at SnF |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Shemp wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
>I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some problems
on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door latch
maybe.....
>
>Jeff
>
>
>
They told me the same thing when I asked at the Van's booth.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill Thayer School of Engineering
Assoc. Director of Technical Services 8000 Cummings Hall
deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu - N1JOV Dartmouth College,Hanover,NH 03755
"On the side of the software box, in the 'System Requirements' section,
it said 'Requires Windows 95 or better'. So I installed Linux." -Anonymous
Message 59
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
It shouldn't matter should it? The spring hold the check ball in place so
why would the orientation matter? Do you think the air would be reluctant
to release with the bleeder pointed down? Is that why it's recommended to
use the oil can method? Haven't done it on an RV yet so I don't have any
experience.
*** -----Original Message-----
*** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
*** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cy Galley
*** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 5:10 PM
*** To: rv-list@matronics.com
*** Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
***
***
*** --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
***
*** Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up
*** to pump fluid out of the wheel cylinder top by pressure
*** from the master cylinder.
***
*** Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in
*** the bottom of the cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in
*** the opposite direction into the bottom up thru the master cylinder.
***
***
*** ----- Original Message -----
*** From: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
*** To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
*** Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
***
***
*** > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
*** >
*** > Here's something that might work for one person brake
*** bleeding. At
*** > $10/ea it might be an interesting investment.
*** > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
*** >
*** > Mike Nellis
*** > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
*** > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
*** > http://bmnellis.com
*** >
*** > *** -----Original Message-----
*** > *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
*** > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
*** > Galati
*** > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
*** > *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com
*** > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
*** > ***
*** > *** Jeff,
*** > ***
*** > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
*** > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
*** > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
*** > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
*** > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
*** > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
*** > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
*** > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
*** > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
*** > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
*** > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
*** > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
*** > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
*** > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
*** > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
*** > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
*** > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
*** > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
*** > ***
*** > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a
*** hardware store
*** > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
*** > *** can (full of
*** > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
*** > *** Attach a fitting
*** > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
*** > *** jar. Open the
*** > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid
*** comes out at the
*** > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied
*** the air is out
*** > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
*** > *** try the brakes
*** > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
*** > *** requires only one
*** > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
*** > *** don't let the
*** > *** oil can run dry.
*** > ***
*** > *** Jeff Point
*** > *** RV-6 14 hours
*** > *** Milwaukee
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > *** ---------------------------------
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > *** ==============
*** > *** Matronics Forums.
*** > *** ==============
*** > *** ==============
*** > *** ==============
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** > ***
*** >
*** >
***
***
*** ==============
*** Matronics Forums.
*** ==============
*** ==============
*** ==============
***
***
***
***
***
***
Message 60
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
No THAT makes sense. :) It's touch to put a square peg in a round hole.
Thanks Cy.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
*** --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
***
*** You can't use any of them as the threads are METRIC not SAE!
***
*** ----- Original Message -----
*** From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
*** To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
*** Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
***
***
*** > --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
*** >
*** > Mike,
*** >
*** > That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to
*** order... they
*** > don't list my RV-4.
*** >
*** > Chuck
*** >
*** > ----- Original Message -----
*** > From: Mike Nellis <mike@bmnellis.com>
*** > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
*** > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
*** >
*** >
*** > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
*** > >
*** > > Here's something that might work for one person brake
*** bleeding. At
*** $10/ea
*** > > it might be an interesting investment.
*** > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page.
*** > >
*** > > Mike Nellis
*** > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
*** > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
*** > > http://bmnellis.com
*** > >
*** > > *** -----Original Message-----
*** > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
*** > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
*** Behalf Of Rick
*** > > Galati
*** > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM
*** > > *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com
*** > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati
*** <rick6a@yahoo.com>
*** > > ***
*** > > *** Jeff,
*** > > ***
*** > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the
*** > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT
*** > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid
*** > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to
*** > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear
*** > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual
*** > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right
*** > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during
*** > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure,
*** > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow
*** > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure
*** > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after
*** > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay
*** > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when
*** > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake
*** > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure
*** > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time,
*** > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts?
*** > > ***
*** > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a
*** hardware store
*** > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the
*** > > *** can (full of
*** > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw.
*** > > *** Attach a fitting
*** > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a
*** > > *** jar. Open the
*** > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid
*** comes out at the
*** > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are
*** satisfied the air is out
*** > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and
*** > > *** try the brakes
*** > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and
*** > > *** requires only one
*** > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and
*** > > *** don't let the
*** > > *** oil can run dry.
*** > > ***
*** > > *** Jeff Point
*** > > *** RV-6 14 hours
*** > > *** Milwaukee
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > *** ---------------------------------
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > *** ==============
*** > > *** Matronics Forums.
*** > > *** ==============
*** > > *** ==============
*** > > *** ==============
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > > ***
*** > >
*** > >
*** >
*** >
***
***
*** ==============
*** Matronics Forums.
*** ==============
*** ==============
*** ==============
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
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