---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 04/13/04: 60 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:29 AM - Re: Bleeding brakes (Jeff Point) 2. 12:32 AM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Jeff Point) 3. 01:59 AM - Re: Strapdown inertial navigation systems WAS: Autopilot Itch (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)) 4. 05:28 AM - Re: Bleeding brakes (Rick Galati) 5. 07:08 AM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Larry Pardue) 6. 07:09 AM - Re: Oil/gas leak out of Bendix Servo (Shemp) 7. 07:15 AM - 2 planes in one hangar? (Shemp) 8. 07:20 AM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Ron Burnett) 9. 07:34 AM - Engine overhaul? (Dave Durakovich) 10. 08:06 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (James E. Clark) 11. 08:08 AM - Wood prop... (Travis Hamblen) 12. 08:10 AM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 13. 08:15 AM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 14. 08:19 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 15. 08:19 AM - Wood prop (Travis Hamblen) 16. 08:21 AM - Re: Engine overhaul? (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 17. 08:36 AM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Jeff Point) 18. 08:37 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (C. Rabaut) 19. 09:16 AM - Engine Decision-Sump Choice (Jim Thorne) 20. 09:42 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (Rick Galati) 21. 10:04 AM - Re: Wood prop (James E. Clark) 22. 10:19 AM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Louis Willig) 23. 10:39 AM - Tip Tank CG (RV6AOKC@aol.com) 24. 10:42 AM - Any RVs in DSM??? (RV6AOKC@aol.com) 25. 11:00 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (Knicholas2@aol.com) 26. 11:00 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (Knicholas2@aol.com) 27. 11:04 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (Knicholas2@aol.com) 28. 11:20 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (Shemp) 29. 11:25 AM - Brake Reservoir (Gordon Robertson) 30. 11:35 AM - Re: 2 planes in one hangar? (jerry) 31. 12:40 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Mike Nellis) 32. 12:51 PM - Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? (WHigg1170@aol.com) 33. 01:08 PM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Scott Bilinski) 34. 01:12 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (C. Rabaut) 35. 01:38 PM - Re: Engine Decision-Sump Choice (Bob Japundza) 36. 02:55 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (GMC) 37. 03:04 PM - Re: Step for RV6 (Mark/Micki Phillips) 38. 03:06 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Cy Galley) 39. 03:23 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (C. Rabaut) 40. 03:43 PM - Fuel pressure gauge for sale (Travis Hamblen) 41. 04:00 PM - No RV-10 at SnF (Shemp) 42. 04:21 PM - Re: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? (Neil Henderson) 43. 04:45 PM - RV-3 for sale (Bruce Meacham) 44. 05:04 PM - Rude Pilot (Mickey & Paula) 45. 05:07 PM - Re: Engine overhaul? (Dale Walker) 46. 05:20 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Cy Galley) 47. 05:24 PM - Re: Engine overhaul? (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 48. 05:31 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (C. Rabaut) 49. 05:46 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 50. 05:50 PM - Re: Wood prop (Jerry Springer) 51. 05:53 PM - Re: Engine overhaul? (Richard McCraw) 52. 05:54 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 53. 05:58 PM - Re: No RV-10 at SnF (Brian Kraut) 54. 06:16 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Larry Bowen) 55. 07:23 PM - Cylinder Work... (Bill VonDane) 56. 07:29 PM - Re: No RV-10 at SnF (Finn Lassen) 57. 07:36 PM - Re: Cylinder Work... (SCOTT MORGAN) 58. 08:54 PM - Re: No RV-10 at SnF (Dj Merrill) 59. 08:54 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Mike Nellis) 60. 09:04 PM - Re: Re: Bleeding brakes (Mike Nellis) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:29:11 AM PST US From: Jeff Point Subject: Re: RV-List: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the can (full of brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. Attach a fitting w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a jar. Open the bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and try the brakes w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and requires only one person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and don't let the oil can run dry. Jeff Point RV-6 14 hours Milwaukee WI > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 12:32:02 AM PST US From: Jeff Point Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Reservoir --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point I have the same setup as Mike (actually, mine is right-side-up) and I like it. I did have to move a few of the spacers around to get the reservoirs to miss each other, but they now clear by a good 1/4 inch. The stock reservoir and lines look awfully leak prone, and I heard enough horror stories about them to do it this way. Jeff Point RV-6 14 hours Milwaukee WI ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 01:59:04 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Strapdown inertial navigation systems WAS: Autopilot Itch From: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" Our email server has been out over Easter, although it seems to be working again now. I *know* that some of my incoming email has been lost :-(. So I may have missed replies to Trampas's message. Anyway, here's my reply... > So the first step is to measure the angle of the plane. There are two simple > ways to do this one is the magnometer which measures earth's magnetic field, > however if you are near a hanger this could be off. That would be a magnetometer, right? A little-understood fact is that the Earth's magnetic field dips at various angles, depending where you are on it (round here, it dips at 60 degrees). So, to use a single magnetometer to measure angle, you need to know where you are, and which way you're facing. You can use 3 orthogonal magnetometers... then you just need to know where you are. Note that since the magnetic field is characterised as a vector, you can't measure any rolling about the vector using just magnetometers. > The second is an inclinometer... This will work fine whilst on the ground and not accelerating (ie not turning). > Ok back to the problem so on the ground we will measure the pitch and roll using > two inclinometers. Now we can reset our rate gyros and life is good, note we are > assuming plane is upright which is a fair assumption on the ground... Yup, OK so far. > Now we take off and the rate gyros have errors in them so at some point we need > to reset them. Well if we assume that we still have the inclinometer then we could > reset them when the inclinometers are level. However this will not work as that we > could be in a banked turn which could throw the inclinometers off. Yup. An unbanked turn would be even worse. > So now we to know when we can reset the gyros, which will be basically when we only > have gravity vector (and lift hopefully) acting on the plane. Actually, any time when the nature of the aircraft's motion is known. However, for practical purpose, this is basically straight and level flight. > So we look at the gyros and say yes there is some error but does it say all forces > are zero, if so then it might be a good time to reset. Now if we also look at our > magnometer (aka compass sensors) and see if we have been flying straight then we can > be fairly sure it is a good time to reset. That is we are not in a long banked turn. I agree... My guess is that the combination of accelerometers and magnetometers is used to detect S&L... if total acceleration force is 1G towards the wheels, and the magnetometer readings aren't changing, then I guess it's pretty safe to assume S&L. Either that, or the pilot is executing a perfect 1G roll about the magnetic vector. Assuming flying due magnetic north or south, that would mean a pitch attitude of 60deg up or down, and a roll about the aicraft centreline. Flying east/west, it implies loops, maintaining 1G. In any other direction, some kind of wierd half-roll, half-loop. Although the due north case is possibly doable in an RV, *I* certainly wouldn't be able to keep it up for long! > Well this works well as long as we are upright, which is not a fair assumption in > the air. Therefore we need to have a sensor, a simple mercury switch that tells > us if we are upright are not. Actually the inclinometers may have this feature included. Whoa!! A mercury switch won't tell you whether you're upright or not. If you execute a loop and maintain positive G all the way, the mercury switch won't switch. > Well this would work quite well depending on the error rate of the gyros, well if we > also had the velocity of the plane we could compensate for some of the gyro errors. That > is if we know we are going 100knts and turning we can get an idea of what the gyros > should read. So lets add air speed into the mix as well. Whoa again! Air speed is not velocity. I guess you could get velocity from GPS though. Sensing another parameter such as altitude or maybe airspeed would narrow down the circulmstances where drift would occur... fly due magnetic north, pitch up 60deg, roll 1G about the aicraft centreline whilst not changing altitude might I guess be theoretically possible (for a moment or two), but I think that flying due magnetic north, pitch up 60deg, roll 1G whilst not changing altitude OR AIRSPEED would be completely impossible in an RV. Maybe in an F-22? So throw in something to measure engine power as well! > Then we derive equations for our outputs, then we apply these equations using a signal > processing method called a Kalman filter. This will basically keep the system reset all > the time and provide us with our outputs. We also add some sanity checks to see if the > data is in left field and basically ship the product. That is the magic is actually in > the filtering algorithm for the data. I'm familiar with digital filtering, but not Kalman filters specifically, so I'm not sure how they would help in keeping the system straight. My approach would be as I've outlined above... detect when the aircraft is *probably* S&L, and then reset the drift in the gyros. Some digital filters to keep the way-out numbers out of the calculations. After all, typically you only want an autopilot to work properly when you're spending most of your time in S&L flight. If you're doing hard-out maneuvring like aerobatics, the pilot is responsible for judging where the horizon is. Dunno how well you would expect an autopilot to work whilst inside a turbulent cloud, but I would expect/hope that that would be only for limited time, so the drift wouldn't be too significant. > I would also guess that they use temperature inside their box as well to compensate the > gyros but again this is only a WAG. I'd guess that that wouldn't be necessary... the box is in the cockpit, where temperatures are kept within a reasonable range. > If someone wants to pay me to do it I will even make an attempt to see if this system would actually work. :) Me too! :-) Frank Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL (0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of Learning. Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your future ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:28:44 AM PST US From: Rick Galati Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati Jeff, I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, what am I overlooking.......thoughts? Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the can (full of brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. Attach a fitting w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a jar. Open the bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and try the brakes w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and requires only one person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and don't let the oil can run dry. Jeff Point RV-6 14 hours Milwaukee --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:08:44 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes From: Larry Pardue --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue on 4/13/04 6:27 AM, Rick Galati at rick6a@yahoo.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati > > Jeff, > > I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you > outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the > reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a > week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high > point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. > > Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > It sounds like you have a leak in the system. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://n5lp.net ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:09:56 AM PST US From: "Shemp" Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil/gas leak out of Bendix Servo --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" Yep, it was somewhat pickled for 6 years. It wasnt sealed but it did have a lot of preservative oil in it. I only have a hole inside the filter now. I never thought to put a second one. Thanks for the tip. Jeff Dowling RV-6a/ 52 hours Chicago/ Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil/gas leak out of Bendix Servo > --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > > > > Im wondering if anyone has seen this before. > > > > I have a Bendix fi servo and Ive noticed some liquid seeping > > out of the bottom of the servo on the top of the fab mounting > > plate upon shutdown. The air cleaner also seems awful dark > > looking thru the fiberglass, oil? I call it a "liquid" > > because I cant determine what it is. It seems to be a mix of > > oil and fuel but I gave up on my rotax a long time ago:) Its > > a blueish thick oilly mess. It also drips out of the bottom > > of the fab. I dont know what to make of it. > > Was your engine pickled prior to being started? If so, I suspect what > you are finding is induction oil from the pickling that is being washed > down to the FAB with priming. It seems that mine did that for a couple > hundred hours. The pickling oil sort of turns waxy, and does not run or > weep by itself. Since no fuel is being sucked up the induction system, > the only time it gets washed is by prime running down. > > Do you have small holes on the bottom of the FAB, both inside and > outside the filter? The hole inside will drain the goo you talk about, > and the hole outside will drain water. I found that the oily stuff > attacks the fiberglass of the FAB, and after about 400 hours I needed to > put some new layers of glass on the bottom inside of the FAB. You may > want to proseal on a fitting on the hole which is inside the filter, and > connect it to a little drain line to bring the slime to the back of the > cooling air exit. Otherwise, it seems to lubricate the nose gear > fairing. Don't use any fitting which will have a part inside the > filter! > > Alex Peterson > Maple Grove, MN > RV6-A N66AP 454 hours > > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:15:14 AM PST US From: "Shemp" Subject: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3 billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current renters with an offer he cant refuse :) Jeff Dowling RV-6a/ 52 hours Chicago/ Louisville ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:20:16 AM PST US From: "Ron Burnett" Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Reservoir --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Burnett" Does this eliminate all the lines in a single brake system and what about dual brakes? Ron Burnett ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Point" Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Reservoir > --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point > > I have the same setup as Mike (actually, mine is right-side-up) and I > like it. I did have to move a few of the spacers around to get the > reservoirs to miss each other, but they now clear by a good 1/4 inch. > The stock reservoir and lines look awfully leak prone, and I heard > enough horror stories about them to do it this way. > > Jeff Point > RV-6 14 hours > Milwaukee WI > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:34:22 AM PST US From: Dave Durakovich Subject: RV-List: Engine overhaul? --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Durakovich Getting ready to redo a Lyc. O-360 for an RV-4, and would like local (or thereabouts) folks to work with if possible. I'm in Detroit, and I consider most of the mid-west as well as Western NY and PA as local. Pretty much going to do it all, and prefer to do it myself (disassembly/asembly/maybe the accessories), so any reccomendations for bottom end, case, and cylinder guys would be appreciated. I've already talked to G&N about doing a bottom end only and they politely declined - an insurance thing. Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN? Thanks, Dave Durakovich --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:06:25 AM PST US From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RE: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" I have seen two RV6's in a single hangar. Small ramp to facilitate wing overlap. "Twas CLOSE. So *maybe* it could work. James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shemp > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 10:15 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" > > Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" > hangar with a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I > would like to keep her is in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, > and has a waiting list of about 3 billion years. If it would > fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current renters with > an offer he cant refuse :) > > Jeff Dowling > RV-6a/ 52 hours > Chicago/ Louisville > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 08:08:06 AM PST US From: "Travis Hamblen" Subject: RV-List: Wood prop... --> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the front and I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is it just for looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop refinished would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of a wood prop so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba prop (68x76 on my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated. Travis RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs -- Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:10:25 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com In a message dated 4/13/04 7:30:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time, rick6a@yahoo.com writes: > Jeff, > > I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you > outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the > reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a > week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high > point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both > left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the > bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always > making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop > the process. Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them, > the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way > to judge brake effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like > to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, what am I > overlooking.......thoughts? > > Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:15:49 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com Rick, Whoops! Please excuse the empty post. The air is probably not all out of the system. Maybe there are some small bubbles still trapped that finally collect at the highest point. I doubt if air is leaking in. Can you pull down on the plastic hoses, maybe tape them down temporarily, so that the air can escape up into the reservoir? Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done) In a message dated 4/13/04 7:30:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time, rick6a@yahoo.com writes: > Jeff, > > I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you > outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the > reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a > week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high > point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both > left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the > bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always > making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop > the process. Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them, > the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way > to judge brake effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like > to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, what am I > overlooking.......thoughts? > > Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:19:07 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com Jeff, If your tail is low enough to go under the wing of the high wing it will probably fit. If the tail is low enough, make some scale "paper dolls" and try it on paper. Dan Hopper RV-7A (still almost done) In a message dated 4/13/04 9:21:41 AM US Eastern Standard Time, shempdowling@earthlink.net writes: > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" > > Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with > a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is > in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3 > billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current > renters with an offer he cant refuse :) > > Jeff Dowling > RV-6a/ 52 hours > Chicago/ Louisville > > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 08:19:16 AM PST US From: "Travis Hamblen" Subject: RV-List: Wood prop --> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the front and I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is it just for looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop refinished would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of a wood prop so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba prop (68x76 on my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated. Travis RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs -- Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 08:21:48 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine overhaul? --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com In a message dated 4/13/04 9:35:11 AM US Eastern Standard Time, ddurakovich@yahoo.com writes: > > Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN? > > Thanks, > > Dave Durakovich > Dave, Harrison does only cylinders, I'm pretty sure. You're lucky G&N declined! Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done) ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 08:36:34 AM PST US From: Jeff Point Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Reservoir --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point Yes, it eliminates all the lines in you go single brake. If using dual, I would put the reservoirs on the pax side and run lines from the pax to the pilots side, thus eliminating one set of lines. Jeff Point >Does this eliminate all the lines in a single brake system and what about >dual brakes? >Ron Burnett > > > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 08:37:39 AM PST US From: "C. Rabaut" Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" Jeff, It will likely fit. I've done this several times, when I've had RV's visiting me (I just slip them into a friend's hanger with his Cessna 175). Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: Shemp Subject: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? > --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" > > Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3 billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current renters with an offer he cant refuse :) > > Jeff Dowling > RV-6a/ 52 hours > Chicago/ Louisville > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 09:16:28 AM PST US From: "Jim Thorne" Subject: RV-List: Engine Decision-Sump Choice --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Thorne" I've decided to go with an ECI or Superior O-360 Clone with fuel injection and dual electronic ignition, Plasma II Plus and a Plasma III. The final decision is the sump. Other than the lack of scoop is there any advantage to the horizontal sump to offset the added cost? Can you obtain any "Ram Air" effect with the Van's cowl? Jim Thorne RV-7A QB CHD ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 09:42:11 AM PST US From: Rick Galati Subject: RV-List: Re: 2 planes in one hangar? --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati Jeff, I share an approximately 43'X43' hangar that houses my C-150, a hangarmate's 172 and my unfinished RV-6A. Full to be sure but they all fit. The wings of the 172 will pass over the canopy of my 6A, but not so with my 150, but just barely. When my 150 happens to be spotted next to the RV, and I want to go flying, I have to put a blanket over the roll bar to keep from scratching the paint on the lower surface of the wing of the 150 as it slides over the top of the RV's roll bar (the windshield is not yet attached). If someone is available, I simply have them lift the wing slightly so that it clears the RV as I push or pull the 150 into or out of the hangar to clear the RV. Its a minor aggravation, but it works. Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" > > Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with > a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is > in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3 > billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current > renters with an offer he cant refuse :) > > Jeff Dowling > RV-6a/ 52 hours > Chicago/ Louisville --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 10:04:21 AM PST US From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RE: RV-List: Wood prop --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" We have an Ed Sterba prop on our O-320 RV6 as well. A couple of things to consider ... I recall Ed saying that paint imbalance can cause vibrations in the prop. Never mind ... I see you are having a shop do it that does this all the time. Many props are BLACK on the back so as to *not* reflect light from the STROBES. Making it white might be problematic. On a different note, what kind of performance do you get with this combo??? James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Travis Hamblen > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 11:19 AM > To: RV-List@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Wood prop > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" > > I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who > have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted > black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the > front and > I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility > through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is > it just for > looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop > refinished > would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of > a wood prop > so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba > prop (68x76 on > my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I > have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be > having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things > about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated. > > > Travis > > RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs > > > -- > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 10:19:57 AM PST US From: Louis Willig Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig > > > > > I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you > > outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the > > reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days > to a > > week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at > the high > > point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. > > > > > > Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > > > > >It sounds like you have a leak in the system. > >Larry Pardue >Carlsbad, NM Larry & Rick, My old RV-4 couldn't be bled properly using any conceivable method suggested. There was always a one to two inch bubble in the upper loop or down by the wheel cylinder fitting. I finally ended up loosening the fitting on the wheel cylinder(just barely), and pressed down on the brake pedal to squeeze the air out. Later I loosened a fitting up near the master cylinder. It seems that, sometimes, there are loops and crannies that allow fluid to be pumped right by them. My current -4 seems to bleed very easily using the "oil can" or pressure bleeder that is standard in most shops. Go figure... PS... These bubbles never seemed to affect the feel or braking ability of the aircraft. Go figure that, too... Louis Louis I Willig 1640 Oakwood Dr. Penn Valley, PA 19072 610 668-4964 RV-4, N180PF ("Miss Viagra") 190HP IO-360, C/S prop ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 10:39:15 AM PST US From: RV6AOKC@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Tip Tank CG --> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com Question for those with Vans/Jon J. Tip Tanks....for figuring CG when gas is in the tanks, what do you use for an arm distance for figuring CG??? I wrote vans and they replied with: "Jon J says the cg is 27.8" aft of the wing LE. The normal fuel cg is only 10" behind, so adding fuel to the tip tanks will move the cg further aft." I guess the normal arm for main tank fuel is 70 in. So would the tip tank arm be about 87.8 in ? (17.8 in further aft than main tanks) Just wanted to see if this sound about right to you guys who may have been there done that..... Kurt in OKC Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 10:42:11 AM PST US From: RV6AOKC@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Any RVs in DSM??? --> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com Im going to be in DSM all day on saturday on a lay over with the airline I work for....if any RVer's in the area have a flying 6 or 6A I'll buy the gas!!! Otherwise I'm stuck with watching cable in the hotel room!!! =) Kurt Klewin, OKC, OK 6A...almost done!!! Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 11:00:39 AM PST US From: Knicholas2@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 11:00:39 AM PST US From: Knicholas2@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 11:04:41 AM PST US From: Knicholas2@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com A friend just installed an aero-lift in his hanger. (www.ArmAerospace.com) It is very cool although it makes me nervous seeing a beautiful Mooney houvering over a beautiful Beech. Appartently the insurance companies are ok with it because it did not affect his rates. ...yet another option.. Kim Nicholas Seattle - RV9A. Almost done!!!!! ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 11:20:48 AM PST US From: "Shemp" Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" How tall is the hangar? ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? > --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com > > A friend just installed an aero-lift in his hanger. (www.ArmAerospace.com) > It is very cool although it makes me nervous seeing a beautiful Mooney > houvering over a beautiful Beech. Appartently the insurance companies are ok with it > because it did not affect his rates. ...yet another option.. > > Kim Nicholas > Seattle - RV9A. Almost done!!!!! > > ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 11:25:34 AM PST US From: "Gordon Robertson" Subject: RV-List: Brake Reservoir --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Robertson" >>Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted on each >>master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it this >>way and what are your thoughts/ I have done this on my RV-8. At first I thought it was a great idea, save hoses, chances of leakage, etc. But now I am not so sure. The first thing is that it restricts the travel of the pedals somewhat, the reservoir contacts the firewall if the pedals are adjusted fully forward. I have tried to think of ways to put the reservoir at the side of the pedal, but no luck. I have not made the final decision just yet, but you should check your clearances. Gordon Robertson RV-8 waiting for engine ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 11:35:42 AM PST US From: "jerry" Subject: Re: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? --> RV-List message posted by: "jerry" Jeff ... I have a hangar at The Landings airport near I90/Rt47 which is just SE of Huntley IL. There will be a vacancy May 1. I'm looking for the RV type tenant. I am planning an RV10 to be built in the loft of this hangar. The hangar is 44'x37' on the main floor plus my workshop loft 17'x30'. We typically get a Mooney and a C172 in these hangars with the Mooney in the back. Let me know if this would work for you. Rent of $225 and you would be the only tenant May 1. I'll be looking for one or two other RV type tenants as well. Jerry Grimmonpre RV10 in the future do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shemp" Subject: RV-List: 2 planes in one hangar? > --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" > > Im wondering if my little low wing 6a would fit in a "standard" hangar with a small-ish high wing, ie c150 or 172. The place I would like to keep her is in Schaumburg, about 5 miles from ORD, and has a waiting list of about 3 billion years. If it would fit, Im planning on approaching one of the current renters with an offer he cant refuse :) > > Jeff Dowling > RV-6a/ 52 hours > Chicago/ Louisville > > ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 12:40:47 PM PST US From: "Mike Nellis" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea it might be an interesting investment. http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. Mike Nellis RV-6 Fuselage N699BM 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K http://bmnellis.com *** -----Original Message----- *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes *** *** *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati *** *** Jeff, *** *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? *** *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" *** *** *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the *** can (full of *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. *** Attach a fitting *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a *** jar. Open the *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and *** try the brakes *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and *** requires only one *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and *** don't let the *** oil can run dry. *** *** Jeff Point *** RV-6 14 hours *** Milwaukee *** *** *** *** --------------------------------- *** *** *** ============== *** Matronics Forums. *** ============== *** ============== *** ============== *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 12:51:32 PM PST US From: WHigg1170@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? --> RV-List message posted by: WHigg1170@aol.com Yes, I did. Right after I wrote the e mail just for the heck of it I checked it with a magnet and it was made of stainless steal. ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 01:08:32 PM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Reservoir --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski I to put the reservoirs at the side of the pedals and no go. I moved them to the fire wall between the pedals just below the baggage compartment floor. I can add fluid by the access cover in the baggage compartment floor which is 1/4 inch above the reservoirs. Oh, this is on an 8a. At 02:21 PM 4/13/04 -0400, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Robertson" > >>>Some time back there was a post about using individual Reservoirs mounted >on each >>>master cyl. I could not find it in the archives. Have any of you done it >this >>>way and what are your thoughts/ > > >I have done this on my RV-8. At first I thought it was a great idea, save >hoses, chances of leakage, etc. But now I am not so sure. The first thing >is that it restricts the travel of the pedals somewhat, the reservoir >contacts the firewall if the pedals are adjusted fully forward. I have >tried to think of ways to put the reservoir at the side of the pedal, but no >luck. I have not made the final decision just yet, but you should check >your clearances. > >Gordon Robertson > >RV-8 waiting for engine > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 01:12:53 PM PST US From: "C. Rabaut" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" Mike, That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to order... they don't list my RV-4. Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Nellis Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" > > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea > it might be an interesting investment. > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. > > Mike Nellis > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K > http://bmnellis.com > > *** -----Original Message----- > *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM > *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > *** > *** > *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati > *** > *** Jeff, > *** > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? > *** > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > *** > *** > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the > *** can (full of > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. > *** Attach a fitting > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a > *** jar. Open the > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and > *** try the brakes > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and > *** requires only one > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and > *** don't let the > *** oil can run dry. > *** > *** Jeff Point > *** RV-6 14 hours > *** Milwaukee > *** > *** > *** > *** --------------------------------- > *** > *** > *** ============== > *** Matronics Forums. > *** ============== > *** ============== > *** ============== > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > > ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 01:38:10 PM PST US From: Bob Japundza Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Decision-Sump Choice --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Japundza Jim, Talk to Larry Vetterman--he has one of the new plastic sumps on his RV-4 and has a lot of good things to say about it. Hopping up a Lyc. without modifying or replacing the sump is a wasted effort IMO. In order to get more power out of these engines you have to get them to swallow more air and fuel, and improving the induction system is one thing you have to do in order to get those results. Bob Japundza RV-6 flying 500+ hours F1 QB under const. - highly modified sump and RSA-10 servo --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 02:55:34 PM PST US From: "GMC" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: "GMC" > > I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you > outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the > reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a > week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high > point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. > > Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > Relax Gents Dual brakes on my 6A. During first filling I had no bubbles, then when drained for servicing and subsequent refill there was no way to eliminate the bubbles. I believe that is due to the slippery residue inside the lines, the brake fluid goes around the bubbles leaving them at the high spots. I tried regular oil can filling, pressure pot refilling from bottom and also tried a vacuum pump at reservoir with suction filling from below, no way could I eliminate seeing bubbles in brake line. Maybe I should paint the lines black to avoid seeing bubbles! Anyway my brakes have operated satisfactorily with bubbles at the high spots for 260+ hrs. George in Langley ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 03:04:28 PM PST US From: "Mark/Micki Phillips" Subject: Re: RV-List: Step for RV6 BAYES_00 -4.90, ST_bw_chat 0.50) --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" Paul, I got a pair, give ya a good deal, primed with variprime. Do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Brown" Subject: RV-List: Step for RV6 > --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown" > > Has anybody ever put a step on an RV-6 (not -6A). I need to put one on my already built -6. > > Paul > > ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 03:06:42 PM PST US From: "Cy Galley" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up to pump fluid out of the wheel cylinder top by pressure from the master cylinder. Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in the bottom of the cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in the opposite direction into the bottom up thru the master cylinder. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Nellis" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" > > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea > it might be an interesting investment. > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. > > Mike Nellis > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K > http://bmnellis.com > > *** -----Original Message----- > *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM > *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > *** > *** > *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati > *** > *** Jeff, > *** > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? > *** > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > *** > *** > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the > *** can (full of > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. > *** Attach a fitting > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a > *** jar. Open the > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and > *** try the brakes > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and > *** requires only one > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and > *** don't let the > *** oil can run dry. > *** > *** Jeff Point > *** RV-6 14 hours > *** Milwaukee > *** > *** > *** > *** --------------------------------- > *** > *** > *** ============== > *** Matronics Forums. > *** ============== > *** ============== > *** ============== > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > *** > > ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 03:23:56 PM PST US From: "C. Rabaut" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" I dis-agree. It seems to me that the motorcycle hydraulic brakes system is set up almost identical to our system, especially those of us who have installed the reservoir on the master cylinder. Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: Cy Galley Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" > > Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up to pump fluid out > of the wheel cylinder top by pressure from the master cylinder. > > Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in the bottom of the > cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in the opposite direction into the > bottom up thru the master cylinder. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mike Nellis" > To: > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" > > > > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea > > it might be an interesting investment. > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. > > > > Mike Nellis > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K > > http://bmnellis.com > > > > *** -----Original Message----- > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM > > *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > *** > > *** > > *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati > > *** > > *** Jeff, > > *** > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? > > *** > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > > *** > > *** > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the > > *** can (full of > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. > > *** Attach a fitting > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a > > *** jar. Open the > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and > > *** try the brakes > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and > > *** requires only one > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and > > *** don't let the > > *** oil can run dry. > > *** > > *** Jeff Point > > *** RV-6 14 hours > > *** Milwaukee > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** --------------------------------- > > *** > > *** > > *** ============== > > *** Matronics Forums. > > *** ============== > > *** ============== > > *** ============== > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 03:43:25 PM PST US From: "Travis Hamblen" Subject: RV-List: Fuel pressure gauge for sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" I have a Mitchell fuel pressure gauge for sale. It is in PERFECT condition, just went to a different system so I don=92t need this one. I have pictures available and whoever buys this can rest assured that it works perfectly. I still have the box it came in, bubble wrap it was wrapped in and the receipt from Aircraft Spruce. I will give you everything. It is part number 10-10152 at Aircraft Spruce (Mitchell part number D1-211-6064) and is $89.00 plus shipping was $7.47 for a total of $96.47. I will sell it to you for $65.00 which INCLUDES SHIPPING! I can accept credit card payments if necessary. This is a good deal for a fellow RV owner. E-mail me to make arrangements. Travis Hamblen HYPERLINK "mailto:TravisHamblen@cox.net"TravisHamblen@cox.net RV-6A @ VGT -- Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 04:00:30 PM PST US From: "Shemp" Subject: RV-List: No RV-10 at SnF --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some problems on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door latch maybe..... Jeff ________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 04:21:40 PM PST US From: "Neil Henderson" Subject: Re: RV-List: S/S roll bar brace RV6 Slider ? --> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" Bill I think you will find the standard support bar that is supplied by Van's is non magnetic. Neil Henderson RV9-A ________________________________ Message 43 ____________________________________ Time: 04:45:08 PM PST US From: "Bruce Meacham" Subject: RV-List: RV-3 for sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Meacham" See add as posted on Barnstormers for pictures: http://www.barnstormers.com/listing.php?id34843 RV-3 '91 610 TTAE 50 STOH (Mattituck), O-320 E2C 150hp immaculate. New paint job, Dynon EFIS, Micro Monitor, Garmin 195, Becker 4201 Comm, mode-c transponder, night equipped, a true 10/10! Earnest money required. $31,500 Contact: Brock Vaughn - located Bedford, MA USA Telephone: 781-354-6656 or Bruce Meacham (978)-557-9378 ________________________________ Message 44 ____________________________________ Time: 05:04:16 PM PST US From: "Mickey & Paula" Subject: RV-List: Rude Pilot --> RV-List message posted by: "Mickey & Paula" ________________________________ Message 45 ____________________________________ Time: 05:07:34 PM PST US From: Dale Walker Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine overhaul? --> RV-List message posted by: Dale Walker At 07:33 AM 4/13/2004 -0700, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Durakovich > >Getting ready to redo a Lyc. O-360 for an RV-4, and would like local (or >thereabouts) >folks to work with if possible. I'm in Detroit, and I consider most of >the mid-west as well as Western NY and PA as local. > >Pretty much going to do it all, and prefer to do it myself >(disassembly/asembly/maybe >the accessories), so any reccomendations for bottom end, case, and cylinder >guys would be appreciated. > >I've already talked to G&N about doing a bottom end only and they politely >declined - an insurance thing. > >Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN? > >Thanks, > >Dave Durakovich > >Dave, In my experience they do a very,very poor job on cylinders. Dale Walker-RV7 > >--------------------------------- > > ________________________________ Message 46 ____________________________________ Time: 05:20:57 PM PST US From: "Cy Galley" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" You can't use any of them as the threads are METRIC not SAE! ----- Original Message ----- From: "C. Rabaut" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" > > Mike, > > That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to order... they don't > list my RV-4. > > Chuck > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Mike Nellis > To: > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" > > > > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At $10/ea > > it might be an interesting investment. > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. > > > > Mike Nellis > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K > > http://bmnellis.com > > > > *** -----Original Message----- > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM > > *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > *** > > *** > > *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati > > *** > > *** Jeff, > > *** > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? > > *** > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > > *** > > *** > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the > > *** can (full of > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. > > *** Attach a fitting > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a > > *** jar. Open the > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and > > *** try the brakes > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and > > *** requires only one > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and > > *** don't let the > > *** oil can run dry. > > *** > > *** Jeff Point > > *** RV-6 14 hours > > *** Milwaukee > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** --------------------------------- > > *** > > *** > > *** ============== > > *** Matronics Forums. > > *** ============== > > *** ============== > > *** ============== > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > *** > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 47 ____________________________________ Time: 05:24:08 PM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine overhaul? --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com Dave, My friend and instructor had his Warrior overhauled by: Kline Aviation 8725 Crego Rd. Brooklyn MI 49230 517-592-2316 He has done several engines around here and everyone has been happy with his work. Dan Hopper Near Peru, IN RV-7A (almost done) In a message dated 4/13/04 9:35:11 AM US Eastern Standard Time, ddurakovich@yahoo.com writes: > > --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Durakovich > > Getting ready to redo a Lyc. O-360 for an RV-4, and would like local (or > thereabouts) > folks to work with if possible. I'm in Detroit, and I consider most of > the mid-west as well as Western NY and PA as local. > > Pretty much going to do it all, and prefer to do it myself > (disassembly/asembly/maybe > the accessories), so any reccomendations for bottom end, case, and cylinder > guys would be appreciated. > > I've already talked to G&N about doing a bottom end only and they politely > declined - an insurance thing. > > Anyone know anything about Harrison Engine Service in LaPorte, IN? > > Thanks, > > Dave Durakovich > > ________________________________ Message 48 ____________________________________ Time: 05:31:16 PM PST US From: "C. Rabaut" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" ...ah you are correct! ----- Original Message ----- From: Cy Galley Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" > > You can't use any of them as the threads are METRIC not SAE! > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "C. Rabaut" > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" > > > > Mike, > > > > That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to order... they don't > > list my RV-4. > > > > Chuck > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Mike Nellis > > To: > > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" > > > > > > Here's something that might work for one person brake bleeding. At > $10/ea > > > it might be an interesting investment. > > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. > > > > > > Mike Nellis > > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM > > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K > > > http://bmnellis.com > > > > > > *** -----Original Message----- > > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati > > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM > > > *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com > > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati > > > *** > > > *** Jeff, > > > *** > > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the > > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT > > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid > > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to > > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear > > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual > > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right > > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during > > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, > > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow > > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure > > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay > > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when > > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake > > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure > > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, > > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? > > > *** > > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a hardware store > > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the > > > *** can (full of > > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. > > > *** Attach a fitting > > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a > > > *** jar. Open the > > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid comes out at the > > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied the air is out > > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and > > > *** try the brakes > > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and > > > *** requires only one > > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and > > > *** don't let the > > > *** oil can run dry. > > > *** > > > *** Jeff Point > > > *** RV-6 14 hours > > > *** Milwaukee > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** --------------------------------- > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** ============== > > > *** Matronics Forums. > > > *** ============== > > > *** ============== > > > *** ============== > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 49 ____________________________________ Time: 05:46:38 PM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com Rick, If the bubbles reappear, you may be pumping air into the system with a leaky pump. If you can use higher pressure and make the fluid flow faster, I would think that you could push the air into the reservoir and not have it reappear. Put a line on the reservoir to catch all that fluid! You need to get that air out, or the right side brakes won't work right. Another idea is to raise the right wing as much as possible to avoid downhill runs of fluid while you're pumping fluid in. I think the problem is that the lines are 1/4 inch. Smaller lines would work fine and would not allow the fluid to pass under the air at the high points like the large lines do. Most cars use 3/16 brake lines. Smaller lines also can also handle higher pressure at the same wall thickness. I was off base when I suggested lowering the high points. I will probably have the same problem when I try to bleed mine. There's some more ideas. Hope something helps. Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done and headed to S-n-F tomorrow my RV-wanna-be a Grumman AA1-C) In a message dated 4/13/04 7:30:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time, rick6a@yahoo.com writes: > > --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati > > Jeff, > > I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the same procedure you > outlined using a dedicated ACT pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the > reservoir fluid to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to a > week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear and collect at the high > point in the loops of the dual brake line system no matter what I do. Both > left and right brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during the > bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, low pressure, but always > making sure the lines and overflow are absolutely bubble free before I stop > the process. Sure enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay when I depress them, > the bubbles merely migrate a bit when I depress the petals, but I have no way > to judge brake effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure like > to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, what am I > overlooking.......thoughts? > > Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > ________________________________ Message 50 ____________________________________ Time: 05:50:23 PM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: Wood prop --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer Travis Hamblen wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" > >I am about to have my prop refinished and wanted some input from guys who >have wood props. I have seen many props with the back of the prop painted >black, is there a reason for this? Mine is just stained like the front and >I don=92t have any visibility problems. Does this enhance the visibility >through the prop in night flight or any other time, or maybe is it just for >looks? Any other tips or things to ask for when I have the prop refinished >would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first refinish of a wood prop >so I want to get the best job done. The prop is an Ed Sterba prop (68x76 on >my RV-6A w/ O-320) and it is a GREAT prop, it is pitched just right and I >have not one complaint other than I can=92t fly it in the rain! I will be >having Jeff at Props Inc doing the refinish, and I have heard good things >about his service. Any input is VERY appreciated. > > >Travis > >RV-6A @ VGT 335 hrs > > > If you ever try to land with the sun at your back in the late afternoon you well see why the back of the prop is painted black. It is like a big mirror. Jerry ________________________________ Message 51 ____________________________________ Time: 05:53:39 PM PST US From: "Richard McCraw" Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine overhaul? --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard McCraw" Penn Yan Aero in upstate New York (KPEO) has been in business for a long time and has a good reputation in these parts. I've met the owner and came away with a positive impression Rick RV-7, empennage in the box ________________________________ Message 52 ____________________________________ Time: 05:54:47 PM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com Rick, I had another bright(?) idea. Take the bottom bolts out of the right side master cylinders and tip them up while bleeding. Wouldn't this eliminate the downhill run? Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done) ________________________________ Message 53 ____________________________________ Time: 05:58:21 PM PST US From: "Brian Kraut" Subject: RE: RV-List: No RV-10 at SnF --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" that is what they told me at the booth today Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shemp Subject: RV-List: No RV-10 at SnF --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some problems on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door latch maybe..... Jeff ________________________________ Message 54 ____________________________________ Time: 06:16:24 PM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" Has anyone tried the all-in-one matco brakes, the MC5? No remote or external reservoir needed. http://www.chiefaircraft.com/cgi-bin/frame/frame-aircraft.cgi?URL=/Aircr aft/Brakes/MasterCylinders.html - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: C. Rabaut [mailto:crabaut@coalinga.com] > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 6:23 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" > > I dis-agree. > It seems to me that the motorcycle hydraulic brakes system is > set up almost identical to our system, especially those of us > who have installed the reservoir on the master cylinder. > > Chuck > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Cy Galley > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" > > > > Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up to pump > > fluid > out > > of the wheel cylinder top by pressure from the master cylinder. > > > > Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in > the bottom > > of > the > > cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in the opposite > direction into > > the bottom up thru the master cylinder. > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Mike Nellis" > > To: > > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" > > > > > > Here's something that might work for one person brake > bleeding. At > $10/ea > > > it might be an interesting investment. > > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. > > > > > > Mike Nellis > > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM > > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K > > > http://bmnellis.com > > > > > > *** -----Original Message----- > > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick > > > Galati > > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM > > > *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com > > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati > > > *** > > > *** Jeff, > > > *** > > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the > > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT > > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid > > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to > > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear > > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual > > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right > > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during > > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, > > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow > > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure > > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after > > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay > > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when > > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake > > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure > > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, > > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? > > > *** > > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" > > > *** > > > *** > > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a > hardware store > > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the > > > *** can (full of > > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. > > > *** Attach a fitting > > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a > > > *** jar. Open the > > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid > comes out at the > > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied > the air is out > > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and > > > *** try the brakes > > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and > > > *** requires only one > > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and > > > *** don't let the > > > *** oil can run dry. > > > *** > > > *** Jeff Point > > > *** RV-6 14 hours > > > *** Milwaukee ________________________________ Message 55 ____________________________________ Time: 07:23:44 PM PST US From: "Bill VonDane" "vansairforce" Subject: RV-List: Cylinder Work... --> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" Any recommendations on where to send my cylinders? I need an exhaust port welded on one, new exhaust guides in 3, seats ground and a light hone on all 4... Oh, and did I mention I'm on a budget? ;) Thanks! -Bill VonDane RV-8A - Colorado www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ________________________________ Message 56 ____________________________________ Time: 07:29:42 PM PST US From: Finn Lassen Subject: Re: RV-List: No RV-10 at SnF --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen You mean you can't use the doors in the RV-10 as extra wings? :) Finn Shemp wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" > >I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some problems on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door latch maybe..... > >Jeff > > > > ________________________________ Message 57 ____________________________________ Time: 07:36:33 PM PST US From: SCOTT MORGAN Subject: Re: RV-List: Cylinder Work... --> RV-List message posted by: SCOTT MORGAN Gibson Aviation El Reno OK The have an ad in TAP every month. I have sent cyls over the years. Very reputable shop with integrity. Ask for Marshall. Regards, Scott --- Bill VonDane wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" > > Any recommendations on where to send my cylinders? > > I need an exhaust port welded on one, new exhaust guides in 3, seats > ground and a light hone on all 4... > > Oh, and did I mention I'm on a budget? ;) > > Thanks! > > -Bill VonDane > RV-8A - Colorado > www.vondane.com > www.creativair.com > www.epanelbuilder.com > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 58 ____________________________________ Time: 08:54:49 PM PST US From: Dj Merrill Subject: Re: RV-List: No RV-10 at SnF --> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill Shemp wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" > >I just heard from a friend down there that Tom Green said the 10 had some problems on the way down and wont make the airshow. Something about a door latch maybe..... > >Jeff > > > They told me the same thing when I asked at the Van's booth. -Dj -- Dj Merrill Thayer School of Engineering Assoc. Director of Technical Services 8000 Cummings Hall deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu - N1JOV Dartmouth College,Hanover,NH 03755 "On the side of the software box, in the 'System Requirements' section, it said 'Requires Windows 95 or better'. So I installed Linux." -Anonymous ________________________________ Message 59 ____________________________________ Time: 08:54:49 PM PST US From: "Mike Nellis" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" It shouldn't matter should it? The spring hold the check ball in place so why would the orientation matter? Do you think the air would be reluctant to release with the bleeder pointed down? Is that why it's recommended to use the oil can method? Haven't done it on an RV yet so I don't have any experience. *** -----Original Message----- *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cy Galley *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 5:10 PM *** To: rv-list@matronics.com *** Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes *** *** *** --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" *** *** Unfortunately, those check ball bleeder screws are set up *** to pump fluid out of the wheel cylinder top by pressure *** from the master cylinder. *** *** Aircraft bleeder valves on the other hand are installed in *** the bottom of the cylinder and the fluid must be pumped in *** the opposite direction into the bottom up thru the master cylinder. *** *** *** ----- Original Message ----- *** From: "Mike Nellis" *** To: *** Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes *** *** *** > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" *** > *** > Here's something that might work for one person brake *** bleeding. At *** > $10/ea it might be an interesting investment. *** > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. *** > *** > Mike Nellis *** > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM *** > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K *** > http://bmnellis.com *** > *** > *** -----Original Message----- *** > *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com *** > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick *** > Galati *** > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM *** > *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com *** > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati *** > *** *** > *** Jeff, *** > *** *** > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the *** > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT *** > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid *** > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to *** > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear *** > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual *** > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right *** > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during *** > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, *** > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow *** > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure *** > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after *** > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay *** > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when *** > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake *** > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure *** > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, *** > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? *** > *** *** > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a *** hardware store *** > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the *** > *** can (full of *** > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. *** > *** Attach a fitting *** > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a *** > *** jar. Open the *** > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid *** comes out at the *** > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are satisfied *** the air is out *** > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and *** > *** try the brakes *** > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and *** > *** requires only one *** > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and *** > *** don't let the *** > *** oil can run dry. *** > *** *** > *** Jeff Point *** > *** RV-6 14 hours *** > *** Milwaukee *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** --------------------------------- *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** ============== *** > *** Matronics Forums. *** > *** ============== *** > *** ============== *** > *** ============== *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** *** > *** > *** *** *** ============== *** Matronics Forums. *** ============== *** ============== *** ============== *** *** *** *** *** *** ________________________________ Message 60 ____________________________________ Time: 09:04:24 PM PST US From: "Mike Nellis" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" No THAT makes sense. :) It's touch to put a square peg in a round hole. Thanks Cy. Mike Nellis RV-6 Fuselage N699BM 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K http://bmnellis.com *** --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" *** *** You can't use any of them as the threads are METRIC not SAE! *** *** ----- Original Message ----- *** From: "C. Rabaut" *** To: *** Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes *** *** *** > --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" *** > *** > Mike, *** > *** > That's looks GREAT. But I don't know which one to *** order... they *** > don't list my RV-4. *** > *** > Chuck *** > *** > ----- Original Message ----- *** > From: Mike Nellis *** > To: *** > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes *** > *** > *** > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" *** > > *** > > Here's something that might work for one person brake *** bleeding. At *** $10/ea *** > > it might be an interesting investment. *** > > http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Accessories.htm middle of the page. *** > > *** > > Mike Nellis *** > > RV-6 Fuselage N699BM *** > > 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K *** > > http://bmnellis.com *** > > *** > > *** -----Original Message----- *** > > *** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com *** > > *** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On *** Behalf Of Rick *** > > Galati *** > > *** Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:27 AM *** > > *** To: jpoint@mindspring.com; rv-list@matronics.com *** > > *** Subject: RV-List: Re: Bleeding brakes *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati *** *** > > *** *** > > *** Jeff, *** > > *** *** > > *** I hear what you are saying, and have repeatedly used the *** > > *** same procedure you outlined using a dedicated ACT *** > > *** pressurized brake bleeder and allowing the reservoir fluid *** > > *** to overflow into a jar. My problem is that several days to *** > > *** a week or more later, those vexing air bubbles reappear *** > > *** and collect at the high point in the loops of the dual *** > > *** brake line system no matter what I do. Both left and right *** > > *** brake lines are effected. I have cycled the brakes during *** > > *** the bleeding process, l've used relatively high pressure, *** > > *** low pressure, but always making sure the lines and overflow *** > > *** are absolutely bubble free before I stop the process. Sure *** > > *** enough, after a period of time passes, usually after *** > > *** several days, the bubbles reappear. The brakes *seem* okay *** > > *** when I depress them, the bubbles merely migrate a bit when *** > > *** I depress the petals, but I have no way to judge brake *** > > *** effectiveness until real world taxi tests. I would sure *** > > *** like to see no bubbles at all in the lines at any time, *** > > *** what am I overlooking.......thoughts? *** > > *** *** > > *** Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing" *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** A trick which was shown to me by an old A&P: get a *** hardware store *** > > *** pressure oil can and some 1/4 OD plastic tube. Attach the *** > > *** can (full of *** > > *** brake juice) with the tube to the brake bleeder screw. *** > > *** Attach a fitting *** > > *** w/ another tube to the reservoir, and run the tube into a *** > > *** jar. Open the *** > > *** bleed screw and pump the oil can until the fluid *** comes out at the *** > > *** reservoir end. Keep pumping until you are *** satisfied the air is out *** > > *** (which is easy to check- just tighten the bleed screw and *** > > *** try the brakes *** > > *** w/out disconnecting the apparatus.) Easy to do, and *** > > *** requires only one *** > > *** person. Just check the overflow jar once in a while, and *** > > *** don't let the *** > > *** oil can run dry. *** > > *** *** > > *** Jeff Point *** > > *** RV-6 14 hours *** > > *** Milwaukee *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** --------------------------------- *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** ============== *** > > *** Matronics Forums. *** > > *** ============== *** > > *** ============== *** > > *** ============== *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** *** > > *** > > *** > *** > *** *** *** ============== *** Matronics Forums. *** ============== *** ============== *** ============== *** *** *** *** *** *** ***