Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:34 AM - Corrosion fix for steel? (Jim Bower)
2. 04:42 AM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] Re: SNF (lucky macy)
3. 05:51 AM - Re: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Re: SNF (Larry Bowen)
4. 01:57 PM - Shake rattle & roll...all gone. (Louis Willig)
5. 02:35 PM - For Sale: Van's 3-Lever Throttle Quadrant (Dean Pichon)
6. 03:37 PM - Blown fuse-strange event. (Louis Willig)
7. 05:12 PM - Slick Mag Wires (Tommy Walker)
8. 07:17 PM - RV-8 flap motor interference (Geoff Evans)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Corrosion fix for steel? |
QUARANTINE_LEVEL=4.0 KILL_LEVEL=5.0 tests=FAKE_HELO_HOTMAIL
pts rule name description
---- ---------------------- --------------------------------------------------
1.0 FAKE_HELO_HOTMAIL Host HELO did not match rDNS: hotmail.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder@hotmail.com>
All,
Forgive me if somebody else has posted this idea. As we know, rust forms on
unpainted steel quick as a wink, so what to do? Our nice powder coated
parts are great, but when you clean out the bolt holes the resultant bare
steel is vulnerable, and who wants to add thickness with paint?
Try gun bluing. You can get a little plastic bottle of the stuff for a few
bucks at Wal-Mart, and it works great. Make sure the steel is rust free,
then dab the liquid on with a q-tip. It turns a nasty black color, but it
won't rust thereafter.
Jim Bower
RV-6A Fuse
St. Louis, MO
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RE: [VAF Mailing List] Re: SNF |
QUARANTINE_LEVEL=4.0 KILL_LEVEL=5.0
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
well, i've flown in the last two days (Thursday and Friday) and will fly
back in today for the last time this year and all I can say is that it's the
best SNF I've been to for the 14 to 16 years I've been going. I used to
live down here and the weather since Wednesday has been PERFECT for me. Not
enough humidity to notice and mostly cloud free skys. I haven't broken a
sweat yet this year, literally. Some years I feel like I'm fully drenched
by the time I get my wrist band on for the day.
Anyway, the new offerings are good. The new Dynon engine monitoring display
is complete if not small - uses same glass as their EFIS. It can also be
slaved to the EFIS electronics should the EFIS glass head so if it fails you
can push a button on the engine display and get all your EFIS back. No mods
to the EFIS required. Price point was around $2500 - 2700 with the fuel
flow sensor if I recall. I think they will sell a lot. Kind of like the ACS
2002 but in a smaller display. It doesn't show flap positions but did
pretty much everything else if I recall that the ACS shows on it's main
page. Shooting for "the end of summer hopefully" on getting it out.
The bad news is that their EFIS with the larger glass still isn't going to
be ready anytime soon. Maybe by the end of the year but it's not a top
priority. They want to do an autopilot next. Maybe even before the larger
glass display.
There seemed to be some new glass panel cockpit companies but the one I
stopped to ask questions to wanted something like 16K bare bones for their
smaller 8.5 inch display and that DIDN'T include any of the engine
monitoring sensors or gps/moving map SW/HW in order to take full advantage
the display.
Thursday and Friday had a LOT of NICE RVs. Lots of pictures taken. Lots of
clever builders with the magic touch.
I'll post pictures of the Dynon engine/efis displays when I get back. Who
wants to host them? I'll email them.
got to go to the show now!
later
lucky
do not archive
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Don Hull" <rv7boy@yahoo.com>
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Re: SNF
Try Aero-news.net
They like to report on Sun'n Fun !!! Heh-heh.
If you don't know about the feud between Jim Campbell and SNF, then
you ought to read Aero-news.net
It'll make you wonder if you want to fly down there. I've done it
three times. Haven't been in a few years.
The only things I've heard so far is that weather was crummy Tuesday,
with predictably low attendance, but weather and attendance should
both improve toward the weekend.
Also, there is a report that the factory RV-10 has some sort of
broken door latch problem in Colorado and is questionable as to
whether it will make it to SNF.
Anyone who knows more, please update.
Don
--- In vansairforce@yahoogroups.com, Bill VonDane <bill@v...> wrote:
> Hey... Where's all the love Sun-n-Fun coverage!?
>
> -Bill
> do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RE: [VAF Mailing List] Re: SNF |
QUARANTINE_LEVEL=4.0 KILL_LEVEL=5.0
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Thanks for the report, Lucky.
I have room for the pictures, if they are still looking for a
home.........
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: lucky macy [mailto:luckymacy@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2004 7:39 AM
> To: vansairforce@yahoogroups.com; rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RE: [VAF Mailing List] Re: SNF
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> well, i've flown in the last two days (Thursday and Friday)
> and will fly
> back in today for the last time this year and all I can say
> is that it's the
> best SNF I've been to for the 14 to 16 years I've been going.
> I used to
> live down here and the weather since Wednesday has been
> PERFECT for me. Not
> enough humidity to notice and mostly cloud free skys. I
> haven't broken a
> sweat yet this year, literally. Some years I feel like I'm
> fully drenched
> by the time I get my wrist band on for the day.
>
> Anyway, the new offerings are good. The new Dynon engine
> monitoring display
> is complete if not small - uses same glass as their EFIS. It
> can also be
> slaved to the EFIS electronics should the EFIS glass head so
> if it fails you
> can push a button on the engine display and get all your EFIS
> back. No mods
> to the EFIS required. Price point was around $2500 - 2700
> with the fuel
> flow sensor if I recall. I think they will sell a lot. Kind
> of like the ACS
> 2002 but in a smaller display. It doesn't show flap
> positions but did
> pretty much everything else if I recall that the ACS shows on
> it's main
> page. Shooting for "the end of summer hopefully" on getting it out.
>
> The bad news is that their EFIS with the larger glass still
> isn't going to
> be ready anytime soon. Maybe by the end of the year but it's
> not a top
> priority. They want to do an autopilot next. Maybe even
> before the larger
> glass display.
>
> There seemed to be some new glass panel cockpit companies but
> the one I
> stopped to ask questions to wanted something like 16K bare
> bones for their
> smaller 8.5 inch display and that DIDN'T include any of the engine
> monitoring sensors or gps/moving map SW/HW in order to take
> full advantage
> the display.
>
> Thursday and Friday had a LOT of NICE RVs. Lots of pictures
> taken. Lots of
> clever builders with the magic touch.
>
> I'll post pictures of the Dynon engine/efis displays when I
> get back. Who
> wants to host them? I'll email them.
>
> got to go to the show now!
>
> later
>
> lucky
>
> do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Shake rattle & roll...all gone. |
pts rule name description
---- ---------------------- --------------------------------------------------
--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
A few weeks ago someone asked for a way to shut down the engine without
that annoying shake rattle & roll. Only one lister responded with an actual
solution. And the winner is......Donald Mei. I pasted his solution below:
<<With the engine at a slightly elevated idle, slowly bring the mixture back
until some roughness is detected. Leave it there for a few seconds, then
pull to idle cut off. The engine will shut down as if you had turned off
the key.>>
I have tried this for the last 15 shutdowns and it works every time. The
only difference I have had to make is that I let the engine idle for about
15-30 seconds at this very lean, slightly rough setting. For me 900RPM
works well. After 15-20 seconds, I pull the mixture and what's left of the
throttle to cut off position. The engine stops smoothly. Something else
too. It starts easier on the next start. I guess the plugs are cleaner.
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
Message 5
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| Subject: | For Sale: Van's 3-Lever Throttle Quadrant |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
Hi Everyone,
I have a 3-Lever Throttle Quadrant (Van's P/N CT 43F-1) for sale. Van's
price new is $43.00. I'll sell mine for $25.00 and I'll pay shipping. The
quadrant was just removed from my -4 and has 184 hrs (TTSN). I just replaced
it with Van's "Deluxe Throttle Quadrant". Interested parties please contact
me off-line.
Regards,
Dean
Do Not Archive
From must-see cities to the best beaches, plan a getaway with the Spring
Message 6
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| Subject: | Blown fuse-strange event. |
pts rule name description
---- ---------------------- --------------------------------------------------
--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
Hi guys,
I have two cigarette lighter type power sockets in my RV-4. Both are
breaker protected at 5 amps. #1 socket powers my GPS, and #2 socket powers
my ANR headset. A few weeks ago, the 2 amp fuse contained in the male power
plug of my GPS blew. I changed it and a few hours later, it blew again. The
breaker on my panel never blew.
I switched the two devices, and the GPS has worked fine. But today the ANR
power plug fuse blew.
The problem is not in the devices used but seems to be in the power
socket/wiring system. How can this be? Any ideas before I spend three
hours tearing apart my honey?
Thanks in advance. Louis
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
Message 7
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Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 19:17:23 -0500
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
My Slick wiring harness leads are way too long. I figured out how to get the plug
end assembly off (5 parts) to shorten the wires, but I'm having trouble getting
the spring stud back in the shortened wire. Anyone know a good trick to easily
get the spring stud back into the center of the wire??
Tommy
6A, Firewall Forward
Ridgetop, TN
Message 8
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| Subject: | RV-8 flap motor interference |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
Has anyone else had an interference problem with the flap actuator motor and
the side panel cover in an RV-8? If so, can you offer any pictures or a
description detailing what you did to fix it?
My motor sticks out 3/16" beyond the armrest and side panel cover. The
interference is at the top (retracted flap position), so I can't just move
the bottom of the side panel cover inboard.
I've heard that this is a common problem. I have a QB fuselage and the holes
for the location of the plastic flap arm mounting blocks were pre-drilled, so
there isn't anything I could have done wrong here (in terms of location of
mounting).
I talked to one builder who cut the end off the steel flap arm and re-welded
it farther outboard (where there is plenty of room). I don't really have the
resources to do that, so I was wondering if anyone had another solution that
didn't end up looking too cheesy.
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB
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