Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:07 AM - Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!! (Dana Overall)
2. 05:16 AM - Re: [SPAM] Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!! (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
3. 05:17 AM - Re: VSI & Altimeter Flucuations (Alex Peterson)
4. 06:22 AM - Re: Shake rattle & roll...all gone. pts rule name (Scott Bilinski)
5. 06:31 AM - Re: [SPAM] Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!! (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
6. 06:59 AM - Re: RV-8 flap motor interference (Geoff Evans)
7. 08:33 AM - Sun 'N Fun Accident (Stuart B McCurdy)
8. 09:08 AM - Re: Slick Mag Wires (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
9. 09:39 AM - Control system final assembly question (HCRV6@aol.com)
10. 09:56 AM - Re: Slick Mag Wires (Bill VonDane)
11. 10:03 AM - Re: Slick Mag Wires (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
12. 12:02 PM - Re: Control system final assembly question (John D. Heath)
13. 12:16 PM - Re: Control system final assembly question (Greg Young)
14. 02:47 PM - Re: Shake rattle & roll...all gone. (Louis Willig)
15. 03:24 PM - Elevator trim tab hinge (Mark Antenbring)
16. 03:49 PM - Oil line connections (Tommy Walker)
17. 04:01 PM - Re: Oil line connections (Kyle Boatright)
18. 04:09 PM - Re: Elevator trim tab hinge (Tommy Walker)
19. 04:24 PM - F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) (David Carter)
20. 04:50 PM - Re: Oil line connections (Alex Peterson)
21. 06:04 PM - Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) (Sam Buchanan)
22. 06:29 PM - Re: Oil line connections (RV6 Flyer)
23. 06:30 PM - Re: speeds (BEFORE FAIRINGS) (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
24. 06:34 PM - Re: Shake rattle & roll...all gone. pts rule name descr... (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
25. 07:34 PM - Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) (Ron Walker)
26. 08:03 PM - Re: Oil line connections (Vanremog@aol.com)
27. 08:46 PM - Manual Elev Trim - 'Cessna Wheel' orientation of knob (David Carter)
28. 08:49 PM - Gascolator bracket for 6/6A (Jeff Orear)
29. 09:03 PM - Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) (David Carter)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
OK, just to flip the coin. My father passed away one week ago today. To
say the least, the thought of attending Sun & Fun and hosting the RV Beer &
Brats was not even a consideration. On the way to my father graveside
services Thursday, a great friend of mine, Doug Steen, from Ft. Worth, TX
called and said he was on his way from TX to KY to take me to SNF as a
distraction. Talked with my mother who said......."Get out of here as soon
as you can"!!
He flew from TX to KY then to SNF......then flew from SNF to KY then back to
TX.......that's what friends and airplanes are all about. The heck with
engines, paint, interiors, instruments. It the people!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
And I must say, I was shocked and impressed to see Dana on the flight
line, stopping by to say hi to his buddies. Was great to see you Dana.
And your right, It's the People, you included. Good on you for accepting
the distraction.
See ya,
Kahuna
Do not archive.
Oh did you see the video Zack did on one of our formation passes? And
F-16 buzzed under us at 500 knots. Holy Cow! Check out Dougs site, the
video # 225 on todays headlines.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: [SPAM] RV-List: Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!!
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
OK, just to flip the coin. My father passed away one week ago today.
To
say the least, the thought of attending Sun & Fun and hosting the RV
Beer &
Brats was not even a consideration. On the way to my father graveside
services Thursday, a great friend of mine, Doug Steen, from Ft. Worth,
TX
called and said he was on his way from TX to KY to take me to SNF as a
distraction. Talked with my mother who said......."Get out of here as
soon
as you can"!!
He flew from TX to KY then to SNF......then flew from SNF to KY then
back to
TX.......that's what friends and airplanes are all about. The heck with
engines, paint, interiors, instruments. It the people!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
==
==
==
==
Message 3
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| Subject: | VSI & Altimeter Flucuations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> While in level flight in my -6, if my plane yaws at all due
> to turbulence, I get a steady, rythmic flucuation in both the
> ASI and altimeter. I am assuming that the static system is
> getting some sort of airflow disturbance when one side or the
> other is exposed to a different airflow due to the yaw, but
> it is hard to say. I am using Van's rivet head static ports
> in the location marked on the static kit paperwork. If, when
> pushing the remaining rivet through the hole somehow has
> created two different size holes, would that make a
> difference? Has anyone run into this and come up with any
> decent solutions? I'd love to know, because my autopilot
> altitude hold is hooked into this system and it makes the
> pitch servo work hard trying to chase those altitude
> deviations. Thanks in advance for any help/ideas.
>
> David Davenport
> RV-6 N168DD 67 Hrs.
You could try putting a restriction in the static line going to the
altitude hold autopilot (you don't want the other static instruments
affected, so make sure they are not down stream of this restriction).
This could be a problem if your autopilot has a climb/descent RATE mode,
you'll have to experiment. I suspect that the hole through the
restriction will need to be quite small, and the volume between the
restriction and the sensor should be high (a couple coils of tubing
perhaps). Also, talk to the autopilot maker and see if there is a gain
control for that purpose on the unit which can be adjusted.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 458 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Shake rattle & roll...all gone. pts rule name |
description ---- ----------------------
--------------------------------------------------
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Thats great info. But dosent that also mean the idle mixture is to rich?
At 04:54 PM 4/17/04 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
>
>A few weeks ago someone asked for a way to shut down the engine without
>that annoying shake rattle & roll. Only one lister responded with an actual
>solution. And the winner is......Donald Mei. I pasted his solution below:
>
><<With the engine at a slightly elevated idle, slowly bring the mixture back
>until some roughness is detected. Leave it there for a few seconds, then
>pull to idle cut off. The engine will shut down as if you had turned off
>the key.>>
>
>
>I have tried this for the last 15 shutdowns and it works every time. The
>only difference I have had to make is that I let the engine idle for about
>15-30 seconds at this very lean, slightly rough setting. For me 900RPM
>works well. After 15-20 seconds, I pull the mixture and what's left of the
>throttle to cut off position. The engine stops smoothly. Something else
>too. It starts easier on the next start. I guess the plugs are cleaner.
>
>
>-
>Louis I Willig
>1640 Oakwood Dr.
>Penn Valley, PA 19072
>610 668-4964
>RV-4, N180PF
>190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
Sorry to hear of your loss, Dana. Condolences to family & friends. Hope it is
some comfort to know he is in a better place. And yes, it is the people.
Regards,
Doug Preston
RV8
N127EK
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 flap motor interference |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>>yes. just enlarge the hole in the fuse it passes through.<<
That's not the problem. It's not the actuator arm, but rather the actual
electric motor itself. I can't screw the side panel cover on without some
sort of a 1/4" spacer or without moving the motor outboard (which would
require rewelding the tab where the motor connects to the steel flap
weldment).
I also had to notch the flange on the armrest, as the motor runs into it in
the fully-retracted position.
-Geoff
__________________________________
http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash
Message 7
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| Subject: | Sun 'N Fun Accident |
--> RV-List message posted by: Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy@att.net>
I saw the whole thing happen. I was wiping down my RV-8 in Homebuilt parking along
the orange fence line next to the taxiway when I heard an aircraft approaching
on 09R (Main Runway). I looked up and saw a Glasair III approaching the
Displaced Threshhold. It then did a 30* bank left turn toward 09L, another 30*
right bank, then another 20* left bank. By now he was in front of LAL Tower,
fast, and I was thinking he would go around. Then he put it down hard. About
a second later there was a huge spray of dirt, and then I saw the aircraft
do a fast tumble tail over nose up to maybe 25' high and stop. Everything came
to a stop as the Emergency Equipment responded from all corners, and remained
stopped for quite a while as the crane and other equipment was crossing the
main runway over to the accident site. After a long delay they finally opened
09R to departure traffic which was stacked up and shut down. It took until about
1045 for everything to get back to normal. Three of my formation guys landed
on 09R about 0945 but could not make it into the Homebuilt Parking area until
about 1020 because the taxiway was filled with departing aircraft stacked
up.
I later heard the pilot was up and walking and his wife was taken to the hospital
with a neck brace on.
Stu McCurdy
RV-8, RV-3
Falcon Flight
Formation Flying, Inc (FFI)
Time: 09:49:13 AM PST US
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Sun & Fun Accident?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
I departed Sun & Fun at around 8:05 this morning and the tower closed the airport
due to an "incident" a few minutes after I took off. Anyone know the story?
Do Not Archive
Tracy Crook
___________
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag Wires |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Tommy,
The Lycoming Overhaul Manual (of all places) has pictures of the tools and
complete instructions for working on the Slick plug wires. I just did this same
thing myself. You drill a small hole down the center of the coiled wire and
the spring piece screws into the hole.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/17/04 7:13:29 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
twsurveyor@msn.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
>
> My Slick wiring harness leads are way too long. I figured out how to get the
> plug end assembly off (5 parts) to shorten the wires, but I'm having trouble
> getting the spring stud back in the shortened wire. Anyone know a good trick
> to easily get the spring stud back into the center of the wire??
>
> Tommy
> 6A, Firewall Forward
> Ridgetop, TN
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Control system final assembly question |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
When final assembling the aileron to control stick pushrods to the aileron
bellcrank in my RV-6 I discovered that since the opening in the bellcrank is
1/2" and the pushrod bearing width is 7/16", there is no way (that I can see) to
get the 1/16" thick 5702-75-060 small O.D. washers specified on RV-6 drawing
19a in the remaining 1/32" gap on each side of the bearing. Anyone out there
remember what you did there. I called Van's this morning and they said to just
use AN960-10L (thin) washers, but I figure the callout for the small O.D.
washers must be on the drawing for some good reason.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag Wires |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I have been thinking of replacing my wires, can I use an automotive wire?
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Slick Mag Wires
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Tommy,
The Lycoming Overhaul Manual (of all places) has pictures of the tools and
complete instructions for working on the Slick plug wires. I just did this
same
thing myself. You drill a small hole down the center of the coiled wire and
the spring piece screws into the hole.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/17/04 7:13:29 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
twsurveyor@msn.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
>
> My Slick wiring harness leads are way too long. I figured out how to get
the
> plug end assembly off (5 parts) to shorten the wires, but I'm having
trouble
> getting the spring stud back in the shortened wire. Anyone know a good
trick
> to easily get the spring stud back into the center of the wire??
>
> Tommy
> 6A, Firewall Forward
> Ridgetop, TN
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag Wires |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 4/19/04 11:57:06 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
bill@vondane.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
> I have been thinking of replacing my wires, can I use an automotive wire?
>
> -Bill
>
>
Bill,
Electrically, automotive wire is probably fine. But it isn't shielded for
one thing. After stripping this wire and seeing the quality and toughness of
the helical wound center conductor, several silicone insulation layers, and
fiberglass braid for strength I was very impressed. Also, the terminations are
very well designed. These Lycomings have a lot of vibration compared to auto
engines. You can't bend or vibrate the wire on my plane enough to hurt it.
Stay with the aircraft wire. IMHO.
Dan Hopper (Worked in ignition for GM for 15 years.)
RV-7A (almost done)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Control system final assembly question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <altoq@direcway.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Control system final assembly question
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
> ......Van's this morning and they said to just
> use AN960-10L (thin) washers...............
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, final assembly
AN960-10L washer is 0.438" OD, 0.203" ID, and 0.032" Thick.
Combonations of -10 's and -10L 's could be used to fill the space' staying
equal on both sides of the bearing as posible. Purpose to minimize stress
in the bell crankwhen you tighten the bolt and allow the control tube to
turn
around it's longitudinalaxis.
John D
Message 13
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| Subject: | Control system final assembly question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Harry,
The small OD washers allow the spherical bearings on the rod ends to rotate
a little further without interference. The aileron pushrods are very
sensitive to the position of the rod ends so that nothing binds during full
stick movement. I found the control weldment to be the problem area, not the
bellcrank. You may not need the small OD washers to get clearance but if you
do then I'd spread the ears to get that extra 1/32".
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> When final assembling the aileron to control stick pushrods
> to the aileron
> bellcrank in my RV-6 I discovered that since the opening in
> the bellcrank is
> 1/2" and the pushrod bearing width is 7/16", there is no way
> (that I can see) to
> get the 1/16" thick 5702-75-060 small O.D. washers specified
> on RV-6 drawing
> 19a in the remaining 1/32" gap on each side of the bearing.
> Anyone out there
> remember what you did there. I called Van's this morning and
> they said to just
> use AN960-10L (thin) washers, but I figure the callout for
> the small O.D.
> washers must be on the drawing for some good reason.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, final assembly
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Shake rattle & roll...all gone. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
At 09:21 AM 4/19/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>Thats great info. But dosent that also mean the idle mixture is to rich?
>
>At 04:54 PM 4/17/04 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
> >
> >A few weeks ago someone asked for a way to shut down the engine without
> >that annoying shake rattle & roll. Only one lister responded with an actual
> >solution. And the winner is......Donald Mei. I pasted his solution below:
> >
> ><<With the engine at a slightly elevated idle, slowly bring the mixture back
> >until some roughness is detected. Leave it there for a few seconds, then
> >pull to idle cut off. The engine will shut down as if you had turned off
> >the key.>>
I don't think so. When I slowly pull the mixture towards the idle cut off
position, I get the normal 25-50 RPM rise. But a silly little millimeter
prior to shut down, I stop pulling. I let the engine run ( its just a
little rough at this point) for 15-20 seconds and then pull some more. I
really thinks the engine is tuned properly throughout its RPM range. I
don't know why the Lycosaures shake so much during shutdown, and I don't
know why this procedure eliminates the shake. I just know that it works.
Louis
Message 15
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| Subject: | Elevator trim tab hinge |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Antenbring <mantenbring@pangaeainc.com>
I've drilled the hinge to the trim tab, but not to 606PP (elevator side)
yet. When I clamp the hinge to 606PP and check the alignment of the trim
tab, I'm thinking I screwed up somewhere. The trailing edge of the trim tab
sticks out past the trailing edge of the elevator by 3/32" or maybe even
1/8". The shortest distance between the trim tab skin and the elevator skin
that I can get is 1/4" because of the hinge contacting the radius of 606PP.
Can I file the hinge down lengthwise 2/32"? Looking for other appropriate
fixes.
Mark
RV7 - wings still in the crates - is there a flap hinge in there that I can
use on the elevator?
Message 16
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| Subject: | Oil line connections |
Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 17:55:21 -0500
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two questions
come to mind:
1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum do?
2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used?
Thanks,
Tommy
6A, FWF
Ridgetop, TN
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Oil line connections |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Steel or aluminum will work. I used steel, but I had to pull OEM aluminum
fittings loose to install the steel fittings... Those OEM fittings had
lasted 2000+ hours...
No pipe thread sealer is necessary on these fittings.
Kyle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil line connections
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
>
> I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two
questions come to mind:
>
> 1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum
do?
> 2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tommy
> 6A, FWF
> Ridgetop, TN
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim tab hinge |
Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 18:15:18 -0500
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
I would think you could "file down" the hinge as long as you maintain the proper
ED. Otherwise I wouldn't worry about it, my trim tab "sticks out" slightly past
the elevator too. No one knows but me (and you)!
Tommy Walker
6A, Finishing
Ridgetop, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Antenbring
To: 'rv-list@matronics.com'
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 5:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Elevator trim tab hinge
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Antenbring <mantenbring@pangaeainc.com>
I've drilled the hinge to the trim tab, but not to 606PP (elevator side)
yet. When I clamp the hinge to 606PP and check the alignment of the trim
tab, I'm thinking I screwed up somewhere. The trailing edge of the trim tab
sticks out past the trailing edge of the elevator by 3/32" or maybe even
1/8". The shortest distance between the trim tab skin and the elevator skin
that I can get is 1/4" because of the hinge contacting the radius of 606PP.
Can I file the hinge down lengthwise 2/32"? Looking for other appropriate
fixes.
Mark
RV7 - wings still in the crates - is there a flap hinge in there that I can
use on the elevator?
Message 19
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| Subject: | F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip
up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions
that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication?
David Carter
Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin!
Finish kit just inventoried
Message 20
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| Subject: | Oil line connections |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> No pipe thread sealer is necessary on these fittings.
>
Beware! More than one brand new oil cooler has been ruined when people
have threaded aluminum fittings into them. These threaded joints will
gall up, and you will be ordering a new cooler. Use EZ Turn thread
lubricant.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 458 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
David Carter wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip
> up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions
> that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication?
>
> David Carter
> Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin!
> Finish kit just inventoried
David, a resource that is probably totally unknown to current builders
is the set of notes compiled by Will Cretsinger:
http://home.flash.net/~gila/wing_docs/canopy_notes2.htm
Back in the middle/late 90's, Will's notes were a valuable complement to
those of us muddling through the primitive Vans manual. No doubt there
is still a lot of good info in Will's notes that would be helpful for
builders of the pop-together kits.
Here is another blast from the past, Frank Justice's notes:
http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice
I fear that many new builders fail to consider the older notes and
websites and in so doing, pass over some valuable info.
Hope this helps,
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> .
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Oil line connections |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Tommy:
It is good practice to use steel in the engine.
I have a 1961 O-320 that I removed from a Tri-Pacer. It had aluminum
fittings and I replaced them with new aluminum fittings when I REBUILT the
engine. The Governer for the Constant Speed Prop REQUIRES STEEL fittings at
both ends. I also use conical copper seals on the flaired fittings that
mate to steel but not on the aluminum ones.
I used Baker Seal on all pipe thread fittings reguardless of weather they
are aluminum or steel. There are aluminum fittings in my oil cooler.
Gary A. Sobek
EAA TC
FAA A&P
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,452 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil line connections
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two
questions come to mind:
1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum do?
2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used?
Thanks,
Tommy
6A, FWF
Ridgetop, TN
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: speeds (BEFORE FAIRINGS) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
I would not say wheel pants add very little, they are good for at least
4 kts which is not very little IMO.
FWIW, I speed taped my Team Rocket leg fairings on for the S&F run and saw
about 8 or 9 mph improvement (still pantless)- still bangin' on the dam pants,
tho, & will see what happens there.....
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark (1st big trip & omigawdwhutaplane!!!!!!!!!) 8-)
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Shake rattle & roll...all gone. pts rule name |
descr...
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
I have tried this for the last 15 shutdowns and it works every time.
Same here- Thanks, Don... (150 hp E3D)
Mark at The PossumWorks
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
Tip of the day:
After making *any* cuts to it, make sure sure sure sure to clean the edges
of any and all sharp edges BEFORE MOVING IT. These edges *will* focus any
stress encountered while moving it, and cracks (expensive ones) are *very*
likely to occur.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Subject: RV-List: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the
tip
> up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z
instructions
> that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication?
>
> David Carter
> Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin!
> Finish kit just inventoried
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Oil line connections |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 4/19/2004 3:50:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
twsurveyor@msn.com writes:
I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two
questions come to mind:
1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum do?
2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used?
=========================================
If there is a hose hanging on a fitting, I always recommend using stainless
steel on the engine proper and aluminum elsewhere. I have seen that Van's use
aluminum all places, including engine.
For sealer on national pipe threads (tapered) I use Loctite PST, on others,
Fuelube.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 685 hrs)
Message 27
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| Subject: | Manual Elev Trim - 'Cessna Wheel' orientation of knob |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Sorry I took so long to expand my skills at web page updates, to add photos
(a first for me). Here's the link to photos I promised about 2 weeks ago -
how I changed the routing of manual elev trim cable so knob it is oriented
and works like a Cessna Trim wheel. You can take a look at this link to my
web page - it's the "Apr. 19, 2004" entry at top of page.
http://www.datarecall.net/~dcarter/Builder's%20Log.html
David
Message 28
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| Subject: | Gascolator bracket for 6/6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
List:
I am "fix'n" to mount my gascolator for my 6A and have run into a snag. I have
received my firewall forward kit which is designed more for the 7/7A. The 6/6A
additions kit was also ordered. For the gascolator bracket, in the 7/7A, it
fits on the aft side of the firewall between the diagonal stiffener and the
side stiffener on the pax side. In the 6/6A, there is an additional diagonal
stiffener that prevents the gascolator bracket from sitting flush on the aft side
of the firewall.
What have other 6/6A builders done in this situation? My tentative plan is to
cut the bracket so that it will sit between the firewall diagonal stiffeners and
then add a 3/4 x 3/4 x .063 piece of angle to tie it to the additional diagonal
stiffener at the bracket's cut end. This, along with riveting the modified
bracket to the firewall should provide enough strength to support the gascolator.
Just thought I would run this by fellow builders before I go and ruin a perfectly
good part. Not that I have ever done that, mind you........
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (res)
wiring, panel stuff, firewall stuff
Peshtigo, WI
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Thanks, Sam. Good tips.
Do not archive
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> David Carter wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
> >
> > I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the
tip
> > up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z
instructions
> > that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication?
> >
> > David Carter
> > Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin!
> > Finish kit just inventoried
>
>
> David, a resource that is probably totally unknown to current builders
> is the set of notes compiled by Will Cretsinger:
>
> http://home.flash.net/~gila/wing_docs/canopy_notes2.htm
>
> Back in the middle/late 90's, Will's notes were a valuable complement to
> those of us muddling through the primitive Vans manual. No doubt there
> is still a lot of good info in Will's notes that would be helpful for
> builders of the pop-together kits.
>
> Here is another blast from the past, Frank Justice's notes:
>
> http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice
>
> I fear that many new builders fail to consider the older notes and
> websites and in so doing, pass over some valuable info.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Sam Buchanan
> "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
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