---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 04/19/04: 29 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:07 AM - Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!! (Dana Overall) 2. 05:16 AM - Re: [SPAM] Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!! (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)) 3. 05:17 AM - Re: VSI & Altimeter Flucuations (Alex Peterson) 4. 06:22 AM - Re: Shake rattle & roll...all gone. pts rule name (Scott Bilinski) 5. 06:31 AM - Re: [SPAM] Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!! (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com) 6. 06:59 AM - Re: RV-8 flap motor interference (Geoff Evans) 7. 08:33 AM - Sun 'N Fun Accident (Stuart B McCurdy) 8. 09:08 AM - Re: Slick Mag Wires (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 9. 09:39 AM - Control system final assembly question (HCRV6@aol.com) 10. 09:56 AM - Re: Slick Mag Wires (Bill VonDane) 11. 10:03 AM - Re: Slick Mag Wires (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 12. 12:02 PM - Re: Control system final assembly question (John D. Heath) 13. 12:16 PM - Re: Control system final assembly question (Greg Young) 14. 02:47 PM - Re: Shake rattle & roll...all gone. (Louis Willig) 15. 03:24 PM - Elevator trim tab hinge (Mark Antenbring) 16. 03:49 PM - Oil line connections (Tommy Walker) 17. 04:01 PM - Re: Oil line connections (Kyle Boatright) 18. 04:09 PM - Re: Elevator trim tab hinge (Tommy Walker) 19. 04:24 PM - F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) (David Carter) 20. 04:50 PM - Re: Oil line connections (Alex Peterson) 21. 06:04 PM - Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) (Sam Buchanan) 22. 06:29 PM - Re: Oil line connections (RV6 Flyer) 23. 06:30 PM - Re: speeds (BEFORE FAIRINGS) (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 24. 06:34 PM - Re: Shake rattle & roll...all gone. pts rule name descr... (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 25. 07:34 PM - Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) (Ron Walker) 26. 08:03 PM - Re: Oil line connections (Vanremog@aol.com) 27. 08:46 PM - Manual Elev Trim - 'Cessna Wheel' orientation of knob (David Carter) 28. 08:49 PM - Gascolator bracket for 6/6A (Jeff Orear) 29. 09:03 PM - Re: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) (David Carter) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:07:50 AM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: RV-List: Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!! --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" OK, just to flip the coin. My father passed away one week ago today. To say the least, the thought of attending Sun & Fun and hosting the RV Beer & Brats was not even a consideration. On the way to my father graveside services Thursday, a great friend of mine, Doug Steen, from Ft. Worth, TX called and said he was on his way from TX to KY to take me to SNF as a distraction. Talked with my mother who said......."Get out of here as soon as you can"!! He flew from TX to KY then to SNF......then flew from SNF to KY then back to TX.......that's what friends and airplanes are all about. The heck with engines, paint, interiors, instruments. It the people!! Dana Overall Richmond, KY i39 RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg do not archive ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:16:28 AM PST US Subject: RE: [SPAM] RV-List: Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!! From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" And I must say, I was shocked and impressed to see Dana on the flight line, stopping by to say hi to his buddies. Was great to see you Dana. And your right, It's the People, you included. Good on you for accepting the distraction. See ya, Kahuna Do not archive. Oh did you see the video Zack did on one of our formation passes? And F-16 buzzed under us at 500 knots. Holy Cow! Check out Dougs site, the video # 225 on todays headlines. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall Subject: [SPAM] RV-List: Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!! --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" OK, just to flip the coin. My father passed away one week ago today. To say the least, the thought of attending Sun & Fun and hosting the RV Beer & Brats was not even a consideration. On the way to my father graveside services Thursday, a great friend of mine, Doug Steen, from Ft. Worth, TX called and said he was on his way from TX to KY to take me to SNF as a distraction. Talked with my mother who said......."Get out of here as soon as you can"!! He flew from TX to KY then to SNF......then flew from SNF to KY then back to TX.......that's what friends and airplanes are all about. The heck with engines, paint, interiors, instruments. It the people!! Dana Overall Richmond, KY i39 RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg do not archive == == == == ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:17:20 AM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: VSI & Altimeter Flucuations --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > While in level flight in my -6, if my plane yaws at all due > to turbulence, I get a steady, rythmic flucuation in both the > ASI and altimeter. I am assuming that the static system is > getting some sort of airflow disturbance when one side or the > other is exposed to a different airflow due to the yaw, but > it is hard to say. I am using Van's rivet head static ports > in the location marked on the static kit paperwork. If, when > pushing the remaining rivet through the hole somehow has > created two different size holes, would that make a > difference? Has anyone run into this and come up with any > decent solutions? I'd love to know, because my autopilot > altitude hold is hooked into this system and it makes the > pitch servo work hard trying to chase those altitude > deviations. Thanks in advance for any help/ideas. > > David Davenport > RV-6 N168DD 67 Hrs. You could try putting a restriction in the static line going to the altitude hold autopilot (you don't want the other static instruments affected, so make sure they are not down stream of this restriction). This could be a problem if your autopilot has a climb/descent RATE mode, you'll have to experiment. I suspect that the hole through the restriction will need to be quite small, and the volume between the restriction and the sensor should be high (a couple coils of tubing perhaps). Also, talk to the autopilot maker and see if there is a gain control for that purpose on the unit which can be adjusted. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 458 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:22:37 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: Shake rattle & roll...all gone. pts rule name description ---- ---------------------- -------------------------------------------------- --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski Thats great info. But dosent that also mean the idle mixture is to rich? At 04:54 PM 4/17/04 -0400, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig > >A few weeks ago someone asked for a way to shut down the engine without >that annoying shake rattle & roll. Only one lister responded with an actual >solution. And the winner is......Donald Mei. I pasted his solution below: > ><until some roughness is detected. Leave it there for a few seconds, then >pull to idle cut off. The engine will shut down as if you had turned off >the key.>> > > >I have tried this for the last 15 shutdowns and it works every time. The >only difference I have had to make is that I let the engine idle for about >15-30 seconds at this very lean, slightly rough setting. For me 900RPM >works well. After 15-20 seconds, I pull the mixture and what's left of the >throttle to cut off position. The engine stops smoothly. Something else >too. It starts easier on the next start. I guess the plugs are cleaner. > > >- >Louis I Willig >1640 Oakwood Dr. >Penn Valley, PA 19072 >610 668-4964 >RV-4, N180PF >190HP IO-360, C/S prop > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:31:39 AM PST US From: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com Subject: Re: [SPAM] RV-List: Rude Pilot/Now Great Pilot!! --> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com Sorry to hear of your loss, Dana. Condolences to family & friends. Hope it is some comfort to know he is in a better place. And yes, it is the people. Regards, Doug Preston RV8 N127EK ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:59:41 AM PST US From: Geoff Evans Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-8 flap motor interference --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans >>yes. just enlarge the hole in the fuse it passes through.<< That's not the problem. It's not the actuator arm, but rather the actual electric motor itself. I can't screw the side panel cover on without some sort of a 1/4" spacer or without moving the motor outboard (which would require rewelding the tab where the motor connects to the steel flap weldment). I also had to notch the flange on the armrest, as the motor runs into it in the fully-retracted position. -Geoff __________________________________ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:33:30 AM PST US From: Stuart B McCurdy Subject: RV-List: Sun 'N Fun Accident --> RV-List message posted by: Stuart B McCurdy I saw the whole thing happen. I was wiping down my RV-8 in Homebuilt parking along the orange fence line next to the taxiway when I heard an aircraft approaching on 09R (Main Runway). I looked up and saw a Glasair III approaching the Displaced Threshhold. It then did a 30* bank left turn toward 09L, another 30* right bank, then another 20* left bank. By now he was in front of LAL Tower, fast, and I was thinking he would go around. Then he put it down hard. About a second later there was a huge spray of dirt, and then I saw the aircraft do a fast tumble tail over nose up to maybe 25' high and stop. Everything came to a stop as the Emergency Equipment responded from all corners, and remained stopped for quite a while as the crane and other equipment was crossing the main runway over to the accident site. After a long delay they finally opened 09R to departure traffic which was stacked up and shut down. It took until about 1045 for everything to get back to normal. Three of my formation guys landed on 09R about 0945 but could not make it into the Homebuilt Parking area until about 1020 because the taxiway was filled with departing aircraft stacked up. I later heard the pilot was up and walking and his wife was taken to the hospital with a neck brace on. Stu McCurdy RV-8, RV-3 Falcon Flight Formation Flying, Inc (FFI) Time: 09:49:13 AM PST US From: "Tracy Crook" Subject: RV-List: Sun & Fun Accident? --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" I departed Sun & Fun at around 8:05 this morning and the tower closed the airport due to an "incident" a few minutes after I took off. Anyone know the story? Do Not Archive Tracy Crook ___________ ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:08:43 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Slick Mag Wires --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com Tommy, The Lycoming Overhaul Manual (of all places) has pictures of the tools and complete instructions for working on the Slick plug wires. I just did this same thing myself. You drill a small hole down the center of the coiled wire and the spring piece screws into the hole. Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done) In a message dated 4/17/04 7:13:29 PM US Eastern Standard Time, twsurveyor@msn.com writes: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" > > My Slick wiring harness leads are way too long. I figured out how to get the > plug end assembly off (5 parts) to shorten the wires, but I'm having trouble > getting the spring stud back in the shortened wire. Anyone know a good trick > to easily get the spring stud back into the center of the wire?? > > Tommy > 6A, Firewall Forward > Ridgetop, TN > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:39:04 AM PST US From: HCRV6@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Control system final assembly question --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com When final assembling the aileron to control stick pushrods to the aileron bellcrank in my RV-6 I discovered that since the opening in the bellcrank is 1/2" and the pushrod bearing width is 7/16", there is no way (that I can see) to get the 1/16" thick 5702-75-060 small O.D. washers specified on RV-6 drawing 19a in the remaining 1/32" gap on each side of the bearing. Anyone out there remember what you did there. I called Van's this morning and they said to just use AN960-10L (thin) washers, but I figure the callout for the small O.D. washers must be on the drawing for some good reason. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, final assembly ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 09:56:13 AM PST US From: Bill VonDane Subject: Re: RV-List: Slick Mag Wires --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane I have been thinking of replacing my wires, can I use an automotive wire? -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Slick Mag Wires --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com Tommy, The Lycoming Overhaul Manual (of all places) has pictures of the tools and complete instructions for working on the Slick plug wires. I just did this same thing myself. You drill a small hole down the center of the coiled wire and the spring piece screws into the hole. Dan Hopper RV-7A (almost done) In a message dated 4/17/04 7:13:29 PM US Eastern Standard Time, twsurveyor@msn.com writes: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" > > My Slick wiring harness leads are way too long. I figured out how to get the > plug end assembly off (5 parts) to shorten the wires, but I'm having trouble > getting the spring stud back in the shortened wire. Anyone know a good trick > to easily get the spring stud back into the center of the wire?? > > Tommy > 6A, Firewall Forward > Ridgetop, TN > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 10:03:52 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Slick Mag Wires --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com In a message dated 4/19/04 11:57:06 AM US Eastern Standard Time, bill@vondane.com writes: > --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane > > I have been thinking of replacing my wires, can I use an automotive wire? > > -Bill > > Bill, Electrically, automotive wire is probably fine. But it isn't shielded for one thing. After stripping this wire and seeing the quality and toughness of the helical wound center conductor, several silicone insulation layers, and fiberglass braid for strength I was very impressed. Also, the terminations are very well designed. These Lycomings have a lot of vibration compared to auto engines. You can't bend or vibrate the wire on my plane enough to hurt it. Stay with the aircraft wire. IMHO. Dan Hopper (Worked in ignition for GM for 15 years.) RV-7A (almost done) ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 12:02:02 PM PST US From: "John D. Heath" Subject: Re: RV-List: Control system final assembly question --> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: Control system final assembly question > --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com > ......Van's this morning and they said to just > use AN960-10L (thin) washers............... > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, final assembly AN960-10L washer is 0.438" OD, 0.203" ID, and 0.032" Thick. Combonations of -10 's and -10L 's could be used to fill the space' staying equal on both sides of the bearing as posible. Purpose to minimize stress in the bell crankwhen you tighten the bolt and allow the control tube to turn around it's longitudinalaxis. John D ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:16:27 PM PST US From: "Greg Young" Subject: RE: RV-List: Control system final assembly question --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" Harry, The small OD washers allow the spherical bearings on the rod ends to rotate a little further without interference. The aileron pushrods are very sensitive to the position of the rod ends so that nothing binds during full stick movement. I found the control weldment to be the problem area, not the bellcrank. You may not need the small OD washers to get clearance but if you do then I'd spread the ears to get that extra 1/32". Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A > > --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com > > When final assembling the aileron to control stick pushrods > to the aileron > bellcrank in my RV-6 I discovered that since the opening in > the bellcrank is > 1/2" and the pushrod bearing width is 7/16", there is no way > (that I can see) to > get the 1/16" thick 5702-75-060 small O.D. washers specified > on RV-6 drawing > 19a in the remaining 1/32" gap on each side of the bearing. > Anyone out there > remember what you did there. I called Van's this morning and > they said to just > use AN960-10L (thin) washers, but I figure the callout for > the small O.D. > washers must be on the drawing for some good reason. > > Harry Crosby > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, final assembly ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 02:47:21 PM PST US From: Louis Willig Subject: Re: RV-List: Shake rattle & roll...all gone. --> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig At 09:21 AM 4/19/2004, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski > >Thats great info. But dosent that also mean the idle mixture is to rich? > >At 04:54 PM 4/17/04 -0400, you wrote: > >--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig > > > >A few weeks ago someone asked for a way to shut down the engine without > >that annoying shake rattle & roll. Only one lister responded with an actual > >solution. And the winner is......Donald Mei. I pasted his solution below: > > > >< >until some roughness is detected. Leave it there for a few seconds, then > >pull to idle cut off. The engine will shut down as if you had turned off > >the key.>> I don't think so. When I slowly pull the mixture towards the idle cut off position, I get the normal 25-50 RPM rise. But a silly little millimeter prior to shut down, I stop pulling. I let the engine run ( its just a little rough at this point) for 15-20 seconds and then pull some more. I really thinks the engine is tuned properly throughout its RPM range. I don't know why the Lycosaures shake so much during shutdown, and I don't know why this procedure eliminates the shake. I just know that it works. Louis ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 03:24:29 PM PST US From: Mark Antenbring Subject: RV-List: Elevator trim tab hinge --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Antenbring I've drilled the hinge to the trim tab, but not to 606PP (elevator side) yet. When I clamp the hinge to 606PP and check the alignment of the trim tab, I'm thinking I screwed up somewhere. The trailing edge of the trim tab sticks out past the trailing edge of the elevator by 3/32" or maybe even 1/8". The shortest distance between the trim tab skin and the elevator skin that I can get is 1/4" because of the hinge contacting the radius of 606PP. Can I file the hinge down lengthwise 2/32"? Looking for other appropriate fixes. Mark RV7 - wings still in the crates - is there a flap hinge in there that I can use on the elevator? ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 03:49:39 PM PST US From: "Tommy Walker" Subject: RV-List: Oil line connections Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 17:55:21 -0500 --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two questions come to mind: 1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum do? 2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used? Thanks, Tommy 6A, FWF Ridgetop, TN ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 04:01:30 PM PST US From: "Kyle Boatright" Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil line connections --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" Steel or aluminum will work. I used steel, but I had to pull OEM aluminum fittings loose to install the steel fittings... Those OEM fittings had lasted 2000+ hours... No pipe thread sealer is necessary on these fittings. Kyle ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tommy Walker" Subject: RV-List: Oil line connections > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" > > I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two questions come to mind: > > 1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum do? > 2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used? > > Thanks, > > Tommy > 6A, FWF > Ridgetop, TN > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 04:09:10 PM PST US From: "Tommy Walker" Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator trim tab hinge Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 18:15:18 -0500 --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" I would think you could "file down" the hinge as long as you maintain the proper ED. Otherwise I wouldn't worry about it, my trim tab "sticks out" slightly past the elevator too. No one knows but me (and you)! Tommy Walker 6A, Finishing Ridgetop, TN ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Antenbring To: 'rv-list@matronics.com' Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 5:27 PM Subject: RV-List: Elevator trim tab hinge --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Antenbring I've drilled the hinge to the trim tab, but not to 606PP (elevator side) yet. When I clamp the hinge to 606PP and check the alignment of the trim tab, I'm thinking I screwed up somewhere. The trailing edge of the trim tab sticks out past the trailing edge of the elevator by 3/32" or maybe even 1/8". The shortest distance between the trim tab skin and the elevator skin that I can get is 1/4" because of the hinge contacting the radius of 606PP. Can I file the hinge down lengthwise 2/32"? Looking for other appropriate fixes. Mark RV7 - wings still in the crates - is there a flap hinge in there that I can use on the elevator? ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 04:24:44 PM PST US From: "David Carter" Subject: RV-List: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication? David Carter Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin! Finish kit just inventoried ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 04:50:47 PM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil line connections --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > > No pipe thread sealer is necessary on these fittings. > Beware! More than one brand new oil cooler has been ruined when people have threaded aluminum fittings into them. These threaded joints will gall up, and you will be ordering a new cooler. Use EZ Turn thread lubricant. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 458 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 06:04:53 PM PST US From: Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan David Carter wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" > > I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip > up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions > that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication? > > David Carter > Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin! > Finish kit just inventoried David, a resource that is probably totally unknown to current builders is the set of notes compiled by Will Cretsinger: http://home.flash.net/~gila/wing_docs/canopy_notes2.htm Back in the middle/late 90's, Will's notes were a valuable complement to those of us muddling through the primitive Vans manual. No doubt there is still a lot of good info in Will's notes that would be helpful for builders of the pop-together kits. Here is another blast from the past, Frank Justice's notes: http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice I fear that many new builders fail to consider the older notes and websites and in so doing, pass over some valuable info. Hope this helps, Sam Buchanan "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com > > > > > > > > . > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 06:29:53 PM PST US From: "RV6 Flyer" Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil line connections --> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" Tommy: It is good practice to use steel in the engine. I have a 1961 O-320 that I removed from a Tri-Pacer. It had aluminum fittings and I replaced them with new aluminum fittings when I REBUILT the engine. The Governer for the Constant Speed Prop REQUIRES STEEL fittings at both ends. I also use conical copper seals on the flaired fittings that mate to steel but not on the aluminum ones. I used Baker Seal on all pipe thread fittings reguardless of weather they are aluminum or steel. There are aluminum fittings in my oil cooler. Gary A. Sobek EAA TC FAA A&P "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,452 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Tommy Walker" Subject: RV-List: Oil line connections --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two questions come to mind: 1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum do? 2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used? Thanks, Tommy 6A, FWF Ridgetop, TN ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 06:30:28 PM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: speeds (BEFORE FAIRINGS) --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com I would not say wheel pants add very little, they are good for at least 4 kts which is not very little IMO. FWIW, I speed taped my Team Rocket leg fairings on for the S&F run and saw about 8 or 9 mph improvement (still pantless)- still bangin' on the dam pants, tho, & will see what happens there..... From The PossumWorks in TN Mark (1st big trip & omigawdwhutaplane!!!!!!!!!) 8-) ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 06:34:41 PM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Shake rattle & roll...all gone. pts rule name descr... --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com I have tried this for the last 15 shutdowns and it works every time. Same here- Thanks, Don... (150 hp E3D) Mark at The PossumWorks ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 07:34:11 PM PST US From: "Ron Walker" Subject: Re: RV-List: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" Tip of the day: After making *any* cuts to it, make sure sure sure sure to clean the edges of any and all sharp edges BEFORE MOVING IT. These edges *will* focus any stress encountered while moving it, and cracks (expensive ones) are *very* likely to occur. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Carter" Subject: RV-List: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" > > I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip > up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions > that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication? > > David Carter > Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin! > Finish kit just inventoried > > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 08:03:42 PM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil line connections --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com In a message dated 4/19/2004 3:50:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time, twsurveyor@msn.com writes: I am about to order hose and fittings etc. for plumbing my oil cooler. Two questions come to mind: 1) Should I use steel AN fittings on the engine (AN-8) or will aluminum do? 2) what type of pipe thread sealer should be used? ========================================= If there is a hose hanging on a fitting, I always recommend using stainless steel on the engine proper and aluminum elsewhere. I have seen that Van's use aluminum all places, including engine. For sealer on national pipe threads (tapered) I use Loctite PST, on others, Fuelube. GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 685 hrs) ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 08:46:31 PM PST US From: "David Carter" Subject: RV-List: Manual Elev Trim - 'Cessna Wheel' orientation of knob --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" Sorry I took so long to expand my skills at web page updates, to add photos (a first for me). Here's the link to photos I promised about 2 weeks ago - how I changed the routing of manual elev trim cable so knob it is oriented and works like a Cessna Trim wheel. You can take a look at this link to my web page - it's the "Apr. 19, 2004" entry at top of page. http://www.datarecall.net/~dcarter/Builder's%20Log.html David ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 08:49:27 PM PST US From: "Jeff Orear" Subject: RV-List: Gascolator bracket for 6/6A --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" List: I am "fix'n" to mount my gascolator for my 6A and have run into a snag. I have received my firewall forward kit which is designed more for the 7/7A. The 6/6A additions kit was also ordered. For the gascolator bracket, in the 7/7A, it fits on the aft side of the firewall between the diagonal stiffener and the side stiffener on the pax side. In the 6/6A, there is an additional diagonal stiffener that prevents the gascolator bracket from sitting flush on the aft side of the firewall. What have other 6/6A builders done in this situation? My tentative plan is to cut the bracket so that it will sit between the firewall diagonal stiffeners and then add a 3/4 x 3/4 x .063 piece of angle to tie it to the additional diagonal stiffener at the bracket's cut end. This, along with riveting the modified bracket to the firewall should provide enough strength to support the gascolator. Just thought I would run this by fellow builders before I go and ruin a perfectly good part. Not that I have ever done that, mind you........ Regards, Jeff Orear RV6A N782P (res) wiring, panel stuff, firewall stuff Peshtigo, WI ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 09:03:48 PM PST US From: "David Carter" Subject: Re: RV-List: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" Thanks, Sam. Good tips. Do not archive David ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sam Buchanan" Subject: Re: RV-List: F-674 skin and back window (tip-up canopy) > --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan > > David Carter wrote: > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" > > > > I've reviewed some msgs on trimming the glass and otherwise building the tip > > up canopy. Is there a website or document that gives good A-Z instructions > > that supplement the Vans manual on tip up canopy fabrication? > > > > David Carter > > Riveting on the F-675 aft top skin! > > Finish kit just inventoried > > > David, a resource that is probably totally unknown to current builders > is the set of notes compiled by Will Cretsinger: > > http://home.flash.net/~gila/wing_docs/canopy_notes2.htm > > Back in the middle/late 90's, Will's notes were a valuable complement to > those of us muddling through the primitive Vans manual. No doubt there > is still a lot of good info in Will's notes that would be helpful for > builders of the pop-together kits. > > Here is another blast from the past, Frank Justice's notes: > > http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice > > I fear that many new builders fail to consider the older notes and > websites and in so doing, pass over some valuable info. > > Hope this helps, > > Sam Buchanan > "The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com