Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:27 AM - Re: canopy cover (N223RV@aol.com)
2. 04:36 AM - Re: SNF Judging Results?? (James E. Clark)
3. 05:00 AM - Fuselage Jig ? (Eric Parlow)
4. 06:12 AM - Ignition Timing (Bruce Green)
5. 06:30 AM - Smoke system - nozzle size? (Finn Lassen)
6. 07:11 AM - Re: canopy cover (lucky macy)
7. 07:20 AM - Re: Ignition Timing (Dan Checkoway)
8. 07:31 AM - Shake Rattle and Roll - The Genesis (Donald Mei)
9. 08:17 AM - Re: [[SPAM]] Smoke system - nozzle size? (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
10. 08:43 AM - Re:Photos wanted of RiteAngle AOA (RiteAngle3@aol.com)
11. 08:50 AM - Elevator Trim Wire Routing? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
12. 08:53 AM - Re: Ignition Timing (Mike Robertson)
13. 09:22 AM - Re: SNF Judging & SUN 100 Race (Tracy Crook)
14. 09:33 AM - Re: flying via AOA (RiteAngle3@aol.com)
15. 09:40 AM - trim: springs vrs tabs (Larry James)
16. 09:43 AM - Power Vs Speed Vs altitude (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
17. 10:14 AM - Re: [[SPAM]] Smoke system - nozzle size? (Finn Lassen)
18. 10:31 AM - Re: Dynon D-10 EFIS AOA Question (Swaney, Mark CAPT NAVAIRWARCENWPNDIV Bldg 36, Rm 2305)
19. 11:07 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs (czechsix@juno.com)
20. 11:18 AM - Off the list temporairily (HCRV6@aol.com)
21. 11:35 AM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs (Scott Bilinski)
22. 11:39 AM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs (Scott Bilinski)
23. 11:58 AM - Re: trim: springs vrs tabs (Sam Buchanan)
24. 11:59 AM - enunciator panel (Bordelon, Greg)
25. 12:03 PM - Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition (Dwight Frye)
26. 12:34 PM - Re: [[SPAM]] Smoke system - nozzle size? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
27. 12:45 PM - Re: SNF Judging & SUN 100 Race (Imfairings@aol.com)
28. 01:33 PM - Re: enunciator panel (linn walters)
29. 01:33 PM - old vs. new nosewheel hardware (SportAV8R@aol.com)
30. 03:16 PM - Re: trim: springs vrs tabs (Joe Hine)
31. 03:52 PM - RV-4 "Bounty Hunter" for sale (Doug Weiler)
32. 03:56 PM - ControlVision Hookup (Albert Gardner)
33. 03:56 PM - Poor Man's GPS (Albert Gardner)
34. 04:15 PM - Re: canopy cover (Charles Rowbotham)
35. 04:19 PM - Re: old vs. new nosewheel hardware (Alex Peterson)
36. 04:20 PM - Homebrew halon (Mike Holland)
37. 04:23 PM - Re: SNF Judging & SUN 100 Race (Charlie & Tupper England)
38. 04:31 PM - Re: Poor Man's GPS (Sam Buchanan)
39. 04:36 PM - Re: [[SPAM]] Smoke system - nozzle size? (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
40. 05:26 PM - Re: old vs. new nosewheel hardware (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
41. 06:08 PM - Re: [[SPAM]] Smoke system - nozzle size? (JusCash@aol.com)
42. 06:08 PM - Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition (Bill Dube)
43. 06:39 PM - Lycoming 320 MT Propeller offer (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
44. 07:42 PM - Re: SNF Judging & SUN 100 Race (Tracy Crook)
45. 07:50 PM - Re: [[SPAM]] Smoke system - nozzle size? (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
46. 07:50 PM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs (Kyle Boatright)
47. 07:57 PM - Re: Lycoming 320 MT Propeller offer (Bill VonDane)
48. 07:59 PM - Re: Power Vs Speed Vs altitude (Tracy Crook)
49. 08:19 PM - Re: [[SPAM]] Smoke system - nozzle size? (JusCash@aol.com)
50. 08:33 PM - Halon info & website (was Re: Homebrew halon (David Carter)
51. 08:35 PM - Re: Poor Man's GPS (Sam Buchanan)
52. 08:37 PM - Trigear Heat Muff Placement (Mike Holland)
53. 09:01 PM - Re: Trigear Heat Muff Placement (Harvey Sigmon)
54. 09:03 PM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs (Dan Checkoway)
55. 09:06 PM - Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition (Dan Checkoway)
56. 09:08 PM - Re: Poor Man's GPS (Albert Gardner)
57. 09:24 PM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs (James E. Clark)
58. 09:24 PM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs (James E. Clark)
59. 09:44 PM - Re: Poor Man's GPS (James E. Clark)
60. 09:49 PM - Re: Lycoming 320 MT Propeller offer (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
61. 09:55 PM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs (James E. Clark)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: canopy cover |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I don't know about Van's cover, but I purchased one from Bruce's Custom
Covers for my RV-4 and it is very nice. It is lined on the inside and Sunbrella
material on the outside and is of very good quality. I'm guessing it is not the
lightest or cheapest one out there, but I am very happy with it.
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage
Message 2
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| Subject: | SNF Judging Results?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
See ...
http://www.sun-n-fun.org/content/interior.asp?section=flyin&body=2004_awards
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of N223RV@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 10:26 PM
> To: vansairforce@yahoogroups.com; rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: SNF Judging Results??
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> Has anyone seen the results of the SNF judging? I saw tons of
> nice planes,
> but had not seen any postings of the judging results.... Just
> curious....
>
> -Mike Kraus
> N223RV RV-4 Flying
> N213RV RV-10 Empennage
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
I'm considering purchasing a Fuselage jig used to build 3 RV-6s.
The question I have is: Will this work for an RV-8A
It is of made of Uni-strut and the name "Adjust-a-Jig" was mentioned.
Thanks,
ERic--
GodSpeed Aviation
RV-8A
Lose those love handles! MSN Fitness shows you two moves to slim your waist.
http://fitness.msn.com/articles/feeds/article.aspx?dept=exercise&article=et_pv_030104_lovehandles
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bruce Green <mailindex@juno.com>
I have a 200hp, IO-360-A and the data plate says to time at 25BTDC but I
believe there is a service buliten that says to time it at 20BTDC. Any
ideas as to which way to do it?
Message 5
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| Subject: | Smoke system - nozzle size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
I'm looking at installing a smoke system in my RV-3.
I've just browsed the archives.
The only question that remains is:
Recommended nozzle size?
I talked with a couple of guys at Sun'n'Fun and the recommendations were:
Start small and drill bigger and bigger until you find the right size.
But I have no idea what "small" means.
Finn
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
I fly with 2 fellas who have RV8 canopys from different vendors. One you
want to stay away from. It seems to made from a material that grabs and
keeps dust/fine particles which scratches the canopy.
The one they both agree is better is from Cleveland Tools (DJ ?) I'm pretty
sure. It's the same material on both sides, light, and doesn't seem to trap
dust or scratch.
lucky
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: canopy cover
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Is the canopy cover that Van's sells the best bang for the buck?
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Ignition Timing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
The one mag on my AeroSport Power IO-360-A1B6 is timed to 20 BTDC (came that
way from Bart). If you look at the Lycoming operator's manual it shows a
few exceptions to the 25 BTDC rule in there.
I asked AeroSport about this a while back, and they also pointed me at the
operator's manual...believe it's on page 2-3.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Green" <mailindex@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ignition Timing
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bruce Green <mailindex@juno.com>
>
> I have a 200hp, IO-360-A and the data plate says to time at 25BTDC but I
> believe there is a service buliten that says to time it at 20BTDC. Any
> ideas as to which way to do it?
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Shake Rattle and Roll - The Genesis |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Well, you guys all have me blushing right now. The story of how I came up
with it is pretty interesting.
The first seed was planted when I was a 15 hr student pilot in a C-152
waaaayyyyy back in 2000. My instructor demonstrated how even with the
mixture set for idle cutoff the engine could start and kill you. We shut
the plane off by pulling the mixture. About 30 seconds later we spun the
engine and it fired for about second then died.
He explained to me that idle cutoff works by not actually shutting off the
fuel, but by blocking the breather in the carb. Thats why the reaction
isnt instantaneous while you are leaning. It takes a while for a vacuum to
be pulled inside the part of the carb affected.
About the same time I met a Lycoming rep at an event in Hartford called
Safetyfest. He gave me a book containing all of the Lycoming operating and
end user bulletins. I read it from cover to cover. Somewhere in the book
it recommends running at slightly elevated rpms with the mixture leaned to
clean off the plugs prior to shut down. Although strangely, the article
didnt mention anything about shutdown.
When I got my license and started flying the RV I noticed that if I leaned
very aggressively while on the ground my plugs and oil filter stayed very
clean. I leaned just very slightly short of roughness. I used this when
taxiing out before a flight as well as after a flight. It is not a safety
issue because when you do your run up, if you forget to enrich the mixture,
the engine stumbles at about 1100 rpm.
So Im taxiing in in the RV rolling these experiences in my head. My RV
shakes more than most on shut down (conical mount). I realized that part
of the shake is from the engine continuing to run intermittently on less
than 4 cylinders as a vacuum is gradually pulled on the carb when the
mixture is placed at idle cut off. Well, why not let the vacuum build up
prior to actual shutdown?? When I reached my hangar, I ran the engine up to
1000 rpm or so and leaned it to just a slight bit of stumble. Left it there
for 5 seconds and pulled quickly to idle cut off. Wow, no stumble, no
shake.
Don
Message 9
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| Subject: | Smoke system - nozzle size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
My 2 nozzles are 7/64ths each.
I get good comments on my smoke.
Here are some shots of it in action:
http://www2.mstewart.net:8081/michael/rv/teamrv/waco03/index.htm
Also the videos on doug's site from a day or 2 ago from SnF04 have good
shots of the smoke. And that was crappy ole diesel in there.
Hollor if I can help on the smoke. I have been around the block on this
already. This system is my design based on lots of research.
You can read about some of my system on my website here:
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/rvhome.htm
Go to flying/smoke
Enjoy
Kahuna
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Finn Lassen
Subject: [[SPAM]] RV-List: Smoke system - nozzle size?
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
I'm looking at installing a smoke system in my RV-3.
I've just browsed the archives.
The only question that remains is:
Recommended nozzle size?
I talked with a couple of guys at Sun'n'Fun and the recommendations
were:
Start small and drill bigger and bigger until you find the right size.
But I have no idea what "small" means.
Finn
==
==
==
==
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re:Photos wanted of RiteAngle AOA |
--> RV-List message posted by: RiteAngle3@aol.com
Hi RV builders installing or flying the RiteAngle AOA system.
Are you proud of your aircraft?
I have had quite a few individual messages returned due to e-mail address
changes and felt this was one way to reach the largest group of
builders/flyers.
I am in the process of updating the photos of the RiteAngle AOA system
installed on aircraft on our website, Instructional CD and my photo book I'll
have
on display at AirVenture. I appreciate all photos, however those which show
the display,
Vane and / or a unique way of solving any problem related to RiteAngle AOA
system would be appreciated along with a full aircraft photo.
E-mailing these is fine, please give S/N of RiteAngle and approximate hours
flown if you are completed building and "in the air."
To those who have already replied, thanks!
Please contact off list.
Fly the Safe Angle with the RiteAngle
Elbie
EM Aviation, LLC
www.riteangle.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Elevator Trim Wire Routing? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Fellow listers,
I need some advice on how to route the wiring from the fuselage to the
elevator trim motor. The lead screw in the Ray Allen servo extends into the hole
made for the manual trim, so that won't work. I am thinking of bypassing the
horizontal stab and running it through the 4130 horn bracket directly to the
back of the fuselage through some corrugated plastic armor and clamping it out
of
the way of any moving parts. The wiring I have for the feedback pot is 3
conductor shielded that is a little stiff, and I don't want it to have to bend
too tight or over too short of a distance.
Thanks in advance,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Bruce,
You are refering to Service Bulletin 380A. This is for IO-360 C series
engines only. For your engine it remains at 25 BTDC.
Mike Robertson
>From: Bruce Green <mailindex@juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Ignition Timing
>Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:09:28 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bruce Green <mailindex@juno.com>
>
>I have a 200hp, IO-360-A and the data plate says to time at 25BTDC but I
>believe there is a service buliten that says to time it at 20BTDC. Any
>ideas as to which way to do it?
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: SNF Judging & SUN 100 Race |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Speaking of results,
How come all you 160 HP RVers stayed away from the Sun 100 race this year? There
weren't enough of us to form a class this time so I had to race against the
fast glass retractables, canards, etc. I came in third at 216.1 mph behind a
pair of Lancairs. Only .7 mph behind the 2nd place and beat a Glasair that came
in 4th.
Flew at 220 IAS but the high winds knocked the average down. Have not flutter
tested above 220 but would have been tempted to use a little of my reserve power
if I have known the 2nd place Lancair was that close.
Tracy (not victorious but God!, was that fun!)
Mazda 13B powered RV-4
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: flying via AOA |
--> RV-List message posted by: RiteAngle3@aol.com
Has anyone really
flew by AOA reference NOT airspeed ??
In my admittedly biased opinion:
Most definitely, ask any Navy pilot that question.
When escaping windshear / microburst conditions in aircarriers the flight
director is driven by the AOA, it is the only way to be insured you are getting
the maximum performance out of the aircraft~~same goes with any aircraft if the
AOA is setup and indicating correctly. A 747 & an ultralight still rely on
lift derived from the airfoil, an AOA is a useful safety device on both, and all
in-between.
I tell my customers to use the AOA as a reference to know what airspeed to
fly. It is not feasible to have one change their flying habits since their first
flight overnight. As one gets used to the AOA it becomes more and more in
the scan, so that over time you are automatically at the correct airspeed for
the conditions as dictated by the AOA without actually being aware of it. This
is from comments from our customers. Remember the AOA is changing every time
you move the flaps. In my opinion an AOA should give warnings, both audio and
visually when below the "minimum safe" approach speed, well ahead of the
stalling angle so it takes only a small change in attitude to be back "safe"
again. Should you be distracted the audio warning will do this.
You will be amazed at the difference in approach speeds between your
aircraft loaded and at a light weight, 1/2 & full flaps etc.
Accidents are not planned. Safety has always been a hard sell, however, did
you ever know anyone who prior to flying said "I'm going to have an accident
today?"
Safety is no accident!
Contact off list if questions.
Elbie
www.riteangle.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | trim: springs vrs tabs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry James" <larry@ncproto.com>
I'm at another decision cross-roads and would like some input from those
experienced RV drivers. I'm deciding which kind of trim system to
incorporate for elevator; manual trim tab or servo trim tab, and aileron;
manual springs or servo trim tab. My primary decision drivers are
performance (in terms of light responsive controls) and simplicity (in terms
of weight and overall system complexity). These two drivers seem to be at
odds with one another, so a compromise is in order. Any good advice ??
Larry E. James (Bellevue, WA HR2)
New Concepts Prototyping and Production
phone 206 633 3111
fax 206 633 3114
larry@ncproto.com
This electronic message is intended only for the individual(s) to whom it is
addressed and may contain information that is privileged, confidential, or
exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this
electronic message in error, would you please notify me immediately by
return email, or by telephone (collect). Thank you.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Power Vs Speed Vs altitude |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Airspeed and fuel flow data for a Lycoming 360 engine on a RV-6A is on my
website.
www.lessdrag.com
Open the Lycoming 360 propeller page.
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 04/12/2004 11:59:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Has anyone done any testing at various power settings to see what air
speeds are obtained. I am trying to find "the wall" where more power really
does little in the way of more speed. Right now I cruise at 60% power, Alt
9500, and 160 knts TAS and 7.5 gal an hour. This seems to be kind of a
sweet spot. Does any one else have any cruise data. Power settings Vs fuel
flow Vs altitude etc. I am just looking for in the ball park figures.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Smoke system - nozzle size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
Thanks Mike!
It's not clear how many gallons your tank holds, otherwise I'd ask how
many minutes of smoke you get with 2 * 7/64" holes as 14 psi.
So what is your flow rate?
Finn
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
>
>My 2 nozzles are 7/64ths each.
>I get good comments on my smoke.
>Here are some shots of it in action:
>http://www2.mstewart.net:8081/michael/rv/teamrv/waco03/index.htm
>
>Also the videos on doug's site from a day or 2 ago from SnF04 have good
>shots of the smoke. And that was crappy ole diesel in there.
>
>Hollor if I can help on the smoke. I have been around the block on this
>already. This system is my design based on lots of research.
>
>You can read about some of my system on my website here:
>http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/rvhome.htm
>Go to flying/smoke
>
>Enjoy
>Kahuna
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Finn Lassen
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: [[SPAM]] RV-List: Smoke system - nozzle size?
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
>
>I'm looking at installing a smoke system in my RV-3.
>I've just browsed the archives.
>The only question that remains is:
>Recommended nozzle size?
>
>I talked with a couple of guys at Sun'n'Fun and the recommendations
>were:
>Start small and drill bigger and bigger until you find the right size.
>But I have no idea what "small" means.
>
>Finn
>
>
>==
>==
>==
>==
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | RE: Dynon D-10 EFIS AOA Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Swaney, Mark CAPT NAVAIRWARCENWPNDIV Bldg 36,
Rm 2305" <mark.swaney@navy.mil>
Pcondon,
I'm not flying with a Dynon yet, but from my Navy experience with AOA I think it's
most valuable with an indicator on the glareshield, such as is possible with
the PSS units. If you had a Pitot-Static system failure that only impacted
airspeed on your Dynon display, I imagine you'd still be able to fly cruise AOA's
fairly easily, but approach AOA would be more difficult - due to being heads
down. I think the biggest advantage of AOA is for a display failure and a
heads up reference during approach. I'm planning using a Dynon as B/U for my
EFIS/1, and also a PSS indicator on the glareshield. All 3 provide AOA.
Mark Swaney
F-1 Rocket (building slowly)
From: "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon D-10 EFIS AOA Question
--> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
I am interested in the AOA feature on the Dynon but have reservations on the
indicator that presents the AOA data. I have stopped by the other AOA
purveyors and listened to the sales pitches. I guess I can swallow the
physics of the indicator and what it claims to measure. What I can't see is
the real case of flying by the AOA in the Dynon display. Has anyone really
flew by AOA reference NOT airspeed ?? Is the Dynon small yellow, green & red
bars really accurate enough to yield real enough data for "edge of stall"
flying ???
The reason I ask this is the other vendors have a rather large display with
graduations that seem more functional for actual flying by (that) reference.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys, there's a thread going on the Aeroelectric list about automotive spark plugs
used with electronic ignition systems. Apparently some folks have had trouble
with them, others no problems. The thread below says that Jeff Rose at Electroair
now recommends aircraft plugs...not sure why exactly?
I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto plugs in a Lycosaur...what
has been your experience? Specifically, I have a dual Lightspeed Plasma
II system on my O-360, and plan to use the plugs included with the system
by Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iow
RV-8A N2D fwf stuff....
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
I have been running Jeff Rose (Electroair) system on left drive for
about a thousand hours. No significant problems. I used auto plugs as
recommended by him for most of that time, but have used REM 37BYs for
the past few hundred hours, at his (changed) recommendation.
Never had any problem with the 386 or C86 Auto plugs lasting a hundred
hours or several hundred with cleaning and regapping. I did quit
regapping them and started discarding them when I discovered I was
probably damaging them when gapping them. At a buck apiece it was
smarter.
The airplane REM 37 BYs that I am now using are certainly sturdier, but
in my normal aspirated O-360 A1A, the auto ones were just fine, too.
Hope this helps your research.
Denis
> I talked
> to an engine builder at SnF who said the auto plugs are not holding up
> as well
> as the aviation plugs. Does anyone have several hundred hours of
> flying on
> auto plugs to substantiate or refute the claim?
>
> Stan Sutterfield
> RV-8A
> Tampa
Message 20
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| Subject: | Off the list temporairily |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Out of town for a week so off the list for a while.
Do not archive.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
You have the same set up as I do ignition wise, but add 9.2:1 pistons and
FI for the rest of the engine. I have had no problems in 103 hrs. By the
way I am runing lean of peak at cruise power settings if that makes a
difference? (Yes the cyl's have been matched to with in .2 GPH)
At 06:05 PM 4/21/04 +0000, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
>Guys, there's a thread going on the Aeroelectric list about automotive spark
>plugs used with electronic ignition systems. Apparently some folks have had
>trouble with them, others no problems. The thread below says that Jeff Rose
>at Electroair now recommends aircraft plugs...not sure why exactly?
>
>I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto plugs in a
>Lycosaur...what has been your experience? Specifically, I have a dual
>Lightspeed Plasma II system on my O-360, and plan to use the plugs included
>with the system by Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iow
>RV-8A N2D fwf stuff....
>
>From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>
>I have been running Jeff Rose (Electroair) system on left drive for
>about a thousand hours. No significant problems. I used auto plugs as
>recommended by him for most of that time, but have used REM 37BYs for
>the past few hundred hours, at his (changed) recommendation.
>
>Never had any problem with the 386 or C86 Auto plugs lasting a hundred
>hours or several hundred with cleaning and regapping. I did quit
>regapping them and started discarding them when I discovered I was
>probably damaging them when gapping them. At a buck apiece it was
>smarter.
>
>The airplane REM 37 BYs that I am now using are certainly sturdier, but
>in my normal aspirated O-360 A1A, the auto ones were just fine, too.
>
>Hope this helps your research.
>
>
>Denis
>
>> I talked
>> to an engine builder at SnF who said the auto plugs are not holding up
>> as well
>> as the aviation plugs. Does anyone have several hundred hours of
>> flying on
>> auto plugs to substantiate or refute the claim?
>>
>> Stan Sutterfield
>> RV-8A
>> Tampa
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Why dosent somebody contact Jeff Rose and get the straight scoop?
At 06:05 PM 4/21/04 +0000, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
>Guys, there's a thread going on the Aeroelectric list about automotive spark
>plugs used with electronic ignition systems. Apparently some folks have had
>trouble with them, others no problems. The thread below says that Jeff Rose
>at Electroair now recommends aircraft plugs...not sure why exactly?
>
>I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto plugs in a
>Lycosaur...what has been your experience? Specifically, I have a dual
>Lightspeed Plasma II system on my O-360, and plan to use the plugs included
>with the system by Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iow
>RV-8A N2D fwf stuff....
>
>From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>
>I have been running Jeff Rose (Electroair) system on left drive for
>about a thousand hours. No significant problems. I used auto plugs as
>recommended by him for most of that time, but have used REM 37BYs for
>the past few hundred hours, at his (changed) recommendation.
>
>Never had any problem with the 386 or C86 Auto plugs lasting a hundred
>hours or several hundred with cleaning and regapping. I did quit
>regapping them and started discarding them when I discovered I was
>probably damaging them when gapping them. At a buck apiece it was
>smarter.
>
>The airplane REM 37 BYs that I am now using are certainly sturdier, but
>in my normal aspirated O-360 A1A, the auto ones were just fine, too.
>
>Hope this helps your research.
>
>
>Denis
>
>> I talked
>> to an engine builder at SnF who said the auto plugs are not holding up
>> as well
>> as the aviation plugs. Does anyone have several hundred hours of
>> flying on
>> auto plugs to substantiate or refute the claim?
>>
>> Stan Sutterfield
>> RV-8A
>> Tampa
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: trim: springs vrs tabs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Larry James wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry James" <larry@ncproto.com>
>
> I'm at another decision cross-roads and would like some input from those
> experienced RV drivers. I'm deciding which kind of trim system to
> incorporate for elevator; manual trim tab or servo trim tab, and aileron;
> manual springs or servo trim tab. My primary decision drivers are
> performance (in terms of light responsive controls) and simplicity (in terms
> of weight and overall system complexity). These two drivers seem to be at
> odds with one another, so a compromise is in order. Any good advice ??
Larry, your decision is not as hard as you think. :-)
Neither trim system will have any impact on the responsiveness of the
controls.
The manual systems are very simple, inexpensive, and work perfectly.
If you want trim controls on the control stick, you will need the
electric systems.
My RV-6 (565 hrs) has both manual elevator and aileron trims (I have
flown an RV with electric trims as well) and I have absolutely no
regrets about going this route, and have none of the problems often
associated with electric trims (regulating trim speed and sensitivity).
You will receive opinions from electric trim users that are opposed to
mine. :-)
Sam Buchanan
Message 24
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| Subject: | enunciator panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
I am rebuilding my instrument panel and want to add an enunciator
panel/strip above my instruments to display alarms and such. I know I
can do this with LEDs/LAMPs and place markings above or below the lamps.
However, this is not quite what I want.
I want something like in our cars, where we have a strip that appears
black but when an alarm goes on it illuminates the wording or area
around the wording with red, amber or whatever lighting.
I've seen clusters of rectangular dark colored lamp assemblies before in
panels but a search on the Internet proves "no-joy" for me.
Anyone know a source of these items or have built such an enunciator
panel before?
Thanks - Greg
gbordelon@hess.com
Message 25
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| Subject: | Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
I'm intending to install a heated pitot, and know that I can't
directly connect the flexible nylon style (NylaFlow) tubing to the
pitot due to heat considerations. People have done this and have
discovered that the heat from the pitot can melt the tubing ... which
causes some minor problems. :) The NylaFlow tubing is much easier to
work with than aluminum and at some point it pays to change to nylon
if only for routing behind the panel (or so it seems to me).
It seems that the recommendation is to use some length of aluminum
tubing from the pitot, and then transition to the NylaFlow at a later
point. The question is how to best make this transition. I've seen a
number of suggestions, but am wondering if the particular approach
shown at http://www.openweave.org/RV7/question.php would work. My trial
fitting (as you see) looks great. It is a nice tight fit. But, I wanted
to check with the list to see if there was anything I was missing ...
and to answer a few questions I had regarding this approach.
Questions I have are .....
* With the aluminum and nylon both having the same OD, will it
work to use the Nylo-Seal fitting with the aluminum in this
manner?
* If this will work, do I need to use any sealant (like EZLube) on
any of the fittings? On the NylaFlow? On the aluminum?
* I realize that if I use EZLube I should apply it to only the
male threads/components. However, if it is used should it be
applied to the small nylon bushing which is included with the
Nylo-Seal as well as the threads?
* Finally, it is my understanding that I should use the bushing on
the NylaFlow tubing, but should I also use it on the aluminum
tubing?
Answers to these questions would be most appreciated. If you have any
advice or experience in these matters please drop a note my way. If you
want to see a picture better illustrating what I have in mind, take a
look at http://www.openweave.org/RV7/question.php. Thanks!
-- Dwight (working on wings/fuel-tanks with a QB fuselage in shop)
do not archive
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Smoke system - nozzle size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Hey Mike-
Your smoke looked perfect at S&F and the formations were excellent, at least
from the ground- a lot tighter than OSH- looks like y'all have flown together
some since then! 8-)
Keep up the great work! Oh and Finn- if you add the smoke system and do
formations, it looks like they always stick ya on the arse end of things!
Mark Phillips do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: SNF Judging & SUN 100 Race |
--> RV-List message posted by: Imfairings@aol.com
Tracy,
Congratulations on your showing. Hope to get to SNF next year and see you
race!
Bob
Fairings-Etc
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: enunciator panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Bordelon, Greg wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
>
>I am rebuilding my instrument panel and want to add an enunciator
>panel/strip above my instruments to display alarms and such. I know I
>can do this with LEDs/LAMPs and place markings above or below the lamps.
>However, this is not quite what I want.
>
>I want something like in our cars, where we have a strip that appears
>black but when an alarm goes on it illuminates the wording or area
>around the wording with red, amber or whatever lighting.
>
>I've seen clusters of rectangular dark colored lamp assemblies before in
>panels but a search on the Internet proves "no-joy" for me.
>
>Anyone know a source of these items or have built such an enunciator
>panel before?
>
>Thanks - Greg
>gbordelon@hess.com
>
You must have a lot of room in your panel!! 8-) . You can make your
own. The hard part is making the 'egg crate' to separate the lamps (or
LEDs) from each other. Go to a sign shop and get some 1/16" clear
plastic and some glue. Find a Brother Label Maker (like a p-touch) and
use clear lettering on black background ..... I think they have it that
way. Put all the 'words' in one strip to determine how long your
'egg-crate' will be and the spacing for the dividers between the words.
One or two spaces between words is sufficient. Paint the egg-crate flat
black. Lay the lettered strip between a clear front panel and the
egg-crate and mount the lamps any way you can. The LEDs will have a
nice bezel that will mount in a hole .... just use another strip of
plastic just like the front. All the other lights/holders will be large
so I would recommend the LEDs. Check out the different colors you can
get in LEDs too.
There are many ways to do what you want ..... just brainstorm with a few
Experimental friends .... we're creative and more so when we get together!!!
Linn
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | old vs. new nosewheel hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Here's where I am in my efforts to replace bad wheel bearings in the -6A, after
talking to Van's builder assistance. DELETE if you don't have a nose wheel; this
couldn't possibly interest you, and you'll only be tempted to make disparaging
comments about my sissy gear ;-)
I evidently have the old Cleveland wheel on the front (If I were home right now
I could establish this with 100% certainty by looking). This means I have a
U-609 full-length aluminum axle and a pair of U-610 spacers (info gleaned from
the RV List archives). The newer hardware includes the Matco wheel and a pair
of stepped spacers without the axle.
My bearings are both bad, and the replacements I have gotten from Van's are of
a new type: Timken LM67000L-A, with the integral neoprene dust seal on the outside.
Both new and old bearings use the old cup, Timken # LM67010, and I have
these replacements as well (although, incredibly, Van's doesn't sell them, just
the bearings). Problem: new bearing is wider than old one, so old washers
and felt are too thick to fit inside the retaining ring that locks the bearing
into the wheel. Potential solutions: remove neoprene, risk damage to bearing
and defeat the anti-contamination feature. Buy new (matco)wheel and spacers.
Find old bearing and live with the lack of dust seal (risks repeat bearing failure
but is most attractive option at this point.) Problem: Timken part number
is worn away on my old bearings; Van's no longer stocks them, and the builder's
plans for the Cleveland nose wheel don't reference a part # for the bearing.
My best hope seems to be wandering down to the auto parts store with old
bearing in hand and looking pitiful at the counter guy; perhaps he can come up
with a cross reference from the dimensions. I am, of course, hoping someone
on the List has the old part # written down somewhere. I may end up having to
tear the neoprene off of the LM67000L-A's and "going retro."
Next chapter: I have the dreaded end-play in my gear leg; just a little, but it's
there. Gus tells me there are lots of -A's flying like that, and the cures
the factory has tried range from JB weld, to tack-welding, to oversize bolts
and welded-on gusset/doublers. They were not enthusiastic about taper pins, which
seem to me like an elegant potential fix... Unfortunately, the oversizing
bolt options all started with, "First, you'll have to pull the engine for access..."
Never mind. When the gear leg falls off, I will deal with it!
-Bill B
Message 30
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| Subject: | trim: springs vrs tabs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
Hi Larry and others
I would agree with Sam. I have manual trims on my four, and would not trade
them for the electric. I set the elevator trim lever just behind my
throttle quadrant and can just reach back with my thumb to adjust it. I fly
with my hand on the throttle most of the time. The aileron trim is the bog
simple springs on the stick. Doesn't need adjusting very often but works
just fine.
Joe Hine
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Larry James wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry James" <larry@ncproto.com>
>
> I'm at another decision cross-roads and would like some input from those
> experienced RV drivers. I'm deciding which kind of trim system to
> incorporate for elevator; manual trim tab or servo trim tab, and aileron;
> manual springs or servo trim tab. My primary decision drivers are
> performance (in terms of light responsive controls) and simplicity (in
terms
> of weight and overall system complexity). These two drivers seem to be at
> odds with one another, so a compromise is in order. Any good advice ??
Larry, your decision is not as hard as you think. :-)
Neither trim system will have any impact on the responsiveness of the
controls.
The manual systems are very simple, inexpensive, and work perfectly.
If you want trim controls on the control stick, you will need the
electric systems.
My RV-6 (565 hrs) has both manual elevator and aileron trims (I have
flown an RV with electric trims as well) and I have absolutely no
regrets about going this route, and have none of the problems often
associated with electric trims (regulating trim speed and sensitivity).
You will receive opinions from electric trim users that are opposed to
mine. :-)
Sam Buchanan
Message 31
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| Subject: | RV-4 "Bounty Hunter" for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
Fellow Listers:
I am helping a friend sell his RV-4. It is a very nice airplane and has won
many awards including several air races. It's located in Park City, UT.
Here's a website we put together with all the information.
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/N18TW/
Many thanks
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
Message 32
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| Subject: | ControlVision Hookup |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
I'm using a ControlVision GPS setup to feed my Navaid. ControlVision used a
cigaret lighter plugin to power both the Garmin GPS receiver and the IPAQ
PDA. I wanted a more permanent setup so I ripped apart the cigaret lighter
plugin and made an interface box. Wiring up the Navaid autopilot to the
ControlVision setup wasn't difficult but took some time to find out the
appropriate wires. If anyone is going through the same puzzle, I'll share my
wiring diagram via email. My setup uses the external Smart Coupler rather
than the one built into the Navaid control unit but they are nearly the
same.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
ControlVision uses a hand-held computer and a GPS receiver to make a GPS
setup for navigation. At Copperstate last year I say another company that
does about the same thing but I can't remember their name. Does this ring a
bell with anyone? I'm interested in using the EZ Pilot autopilot from Trio
but ControlVision doesn't supply the proper GPS signal for EZ Pilot and
apparently doesn't plan on doing so in the future.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Dan,
Don't know if it's the best bag (but knowing Van it probably is or atleast
close). We have the light weight one and have been very pleased with it. It
with stood last week's rain and wind at S-N-F.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: canopy cover
>Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 23:23:38 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Is the canopy cover that Van's sells the best bang for the buck?
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
http://travel.msn.com
Message 35
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| Subject: | old vs. new nosewheel hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> Next chapter: I have the dreaded end-play in my gear leg;
> just a little, but it's there. Gus tells me there are lots
> of -A's flying like that, and the cures the factory has tried
> range from JB weld, to tack-welding, to oversize bolts and
> welded-on gusset/doublers. They were not enthusiastic about
> taper pins, which seem to me like an elegant potential fix...
> Unfortunately, the oversizing bolt options all started with,
> "First, you'll have to pull the engine for access..."
Bill, are you talking about the play around the gear retention bolt
which goes through the motor mount and gear leg? If so, there can be
some relief had by putting in a close tolerance bolt (if it will go,
obviously - if not, it might be worth having a machine shop turn a few
tenths off from some bolts, rather than trying to get the gear hole
bigger). I pulled my nose gear for a general inspection after about 350
hours, and it was a bugger getting the bolt out. The bolt gets worked a
bit as the nose gear rotates back and forth. I might simply add
replacing that bolt to my annual, to prevent it from getting so bad that
it can't be removed.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 458 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Just curious since I just invested in a hand held Halon based fire extinguisher
for my 9A project, whether anyone has rigged one of these for an engine fire?
Seems to me that with some sort of attachment via a detachable hose that runs from
the fire extinguisher to the forward side of the firewall it would be possible
to smother a fire, at least on the ground. Doubtful in the air.
Better still would be real world fire experiences anyone has had to share.
Thanks
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: SNF Judging & SUN 100 Race |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Tracy Crook wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>
>Speaking of results,
>
>How come all you 160 HP RVers stayed away from the Sun 100 race this year? There
weren't enough of us to form a class this time so I had to race against the
fast glass retractables, canards, etc. I came in third at 216.1 mph behind
a pair of Lancairs. Only .7 mph behind the 2nd place and beat a Glasair that
came in 4th.
>
>Flew at 220 IAS but the high winds knocked the average down. Have not flutter
tested above 220 but would have been tempted to use a little of my reserve power
if I have known the 2nd place Lancair was that close.
>
>Tracy (not victorious but God!, was that fun!)
>Mazda 13B powered RV-4
>
I wish I had known about the problem Tuesday evening. I would have
entered my -4 to help you make a separate RV class if I had known you
needed more RV's to be entered. Ed, Finn & I could have entered & that
would have solved the problem.
If you will send out a call next year, I'm sure that we can recruit a
few RV's to fill up your class.
Charlie
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Poor Man's GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Albert Gardner wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
>
> ControlVision uses a hand-held computer and a GPS receiver to make a GPS
> setup for navigation. At Copperstate last year I say another company that
> does about the same thing but I can't remember their name. Does this ring a
> bell with anyone? I'm interested in using the EZ Pilot autopilot from Trio
> but ControlVision doesn't supply the proper GPS signal for EZ Pilot and
> apparently doesn't plan on doing so in the future.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-9A 872RV
> Yuma, AZ
The Controlvision AnywhereMap system does indeed supply the NMEA data
that is needed by the EZ-Pilot. The trick is to use a connection scheme
that will allow you to access the data line. Call Controlvision; they
can fix you up with the interfaces necessary to send NMEA to the EZ-Pilot.
Here is the link to my article on how I ran the Navaid (same NMEA data
as the EZ-Pilot) from my AWM.
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/ipaq.htm
Sam Buchanan
Message 39
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| Subject: | Smoke system - nozzle size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
5 gallons, 2min, 35 sec.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Finn Lassen
Subject: Re: [[SPAM]] RV-List: Smoke system - nozzle size?
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
Thanks Mike!
It's not clear how many gallons your tank holds, otherwise I'd ask how
many minutes of smoke you get with 2 * 7/64" holes as 14 psi.
So what is your flow rate?
Finn
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
>
>My 2 nozzles are 7/64ths each.
>I get good comments on my smoke.
>Here are some shots of it in action:
>http://www2.mstewart.net:8081/michael/rv/teamrv/waco03/index.htm
>
>Also the videos on doug's site from a day or 2 ago from SnF04 have good
>shots of the smoke. And that was crappy ole diesel in there.
>
>Hollor if I can help on the smoke. I have been around the block on this
>already. This system is my design based on lots of research.
>
>You can read about some of my system on my website here:
>http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/rvhome.htm
>Go to flying/smoke
>
>Enjoy
>Kahuna
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Finn Lassen
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: [[SPAM]] RV-List: Smoke system - nozzle size?
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
>
>I'm looking at installing a smoke system in my RV-3.
>I've just browsed the archives.
>The only question that remains is:
>Recommended nozzle size?
>
>I talked with a couple of guys at Sun'n'Fun and the recommendations
>were:
>Start small and drill bigger and bigger until you find the right size.
>But I have no idea what "small" means.
>
>Finn
>
>
>==
>==
>==
>==
>
>
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: old vs. new nosewheel hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
I would like to make a couple of comments on the loose gear leg at the engine
mount, and also on getting wheel bearings.
I discovered quite by accident that 5/16 drill bits are typically tapered.
The business end is about .002 inch bigger than the shank of the bit about
halfway up. All the old bits I could find around here were that way. Some old
machinists didn't believe me until they miked the bits themselves. When I
drilled my gear legs I took one of these bits, cut it off in a grinder and
resharpened it, and got a good fit to the bolts that came with my kit. Time will
tell
if this prevented the problem that you are having. Maybe it will help
someone else.
On getting bearings: There used to be a place called Bearings, Inc., but the
name has changed, and I don't know what the new name is. But, they
specialize in all types of bearings. You can take your old bearings to them and
if the
number is missing they will measure them and sell you replacements. Name
brands. They were about 1/4 the cost of the certificated bearings from Spruce.
I have no doubt that they are just as good.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A ( Finishing up -- will fly in a month or two.)
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Smoke system - nozzle size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
What kind of oil are you using.
Cash Copeland
In a message dated 4/21/2004 4:37:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mstewart@iss.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
5 gallons, 2min, 35 sec.
Mike
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 03:08 PM 4/21/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
>
>
>I'm intending to install a heated pitot, and know that I can't
>directly connect the flexible nylon style (NylaFlow) tubing to the
>pitot due to heat considerations. People have done this and have
>discovered that the heat from the pitot can melt the tubing ... which
>causes some minor problems. :) The NylaFlow tubing is much easier to
>work with than aluminum and at some point it pays to change to nylon
>if only for routing behind the panel (or so it seems to me).
There was a similar thread about two months ago.
My suggestion was to run a couple feet of thin-wall stainless
tubing from the heated pitot. Stainless is a crummy conductor. Anchor the
stainless to a rib with an Adel clamp to help suck away some of the heat.
A good way to bend thin wall stainless is to plug one end with wax
or duct seal, fill the tube with water, then freeze it solid. (The freezer
will do, but dry ice or LN2 is better.) You can bend is in a corkscrew and
it won't collapse. This is also a good way to bend one tube inside another
and have them stay concentric.
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Lycoming 320 MT Propeller offer |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
I am making the following offer for new MT Propellers for the Lycoming 320
engine. These are electric constant speed propellers. They do not require a
hydraulic governor, or any engine modification required to install a hydraulic
governor.
MTV-17-C/178-59 propeller. 70" dia. 2 blade electric constant speed
propeller.
List price $9,260 ex works Germany ($600 to $1,000 additional delivery cost).
Van's price $7,750 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA.
$7,350 Assembled in Southern California.
$7,350 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA
MTV-18-C/180-119d propeller. 70" dia. 3 blade electric constant speed
propeller.
List price $10,880 ex works Germany ($600 to $1,000 additional delivery cost).
Van's price $9,390 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA.
$8,700 Assembled in Southern California.
$8,700 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA
Contact Jim Ayers at jim@lessdrag.com for details. Or call 805-795-5377.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
MT Propeller Certified Assembly Facility - Southern California
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Re: SNF Judging & SUN 100 Race |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Imfairings@aol.com
Tracy,
Congratulations on your showing. Hope to get to SNF next year and see you
race!
Bob
Fairings-Etc
Thanks Bob. Replacing my crude gear leg intersection fairings with your lovely
parts certainly helped!
Tracy
Message 45
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| Subject: | Smoke system - nozzle size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
If Im paying, I use plain ole diesel fuel $1.75/gal.
If the air show is paying, they put in corvis oil at $4.50/gal.
Only a trained eye can tell the difference in a good smoke installation.
Diesel works just fine in a good installation. The pictures you are
probably looking at are diesel. SnF04 and the waco 03 pictures are
diesel.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JusCash@aol.com
Subject: Re: [[SPAM]] RV-List: Smoke system - nozzle size?
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
What kind of oil are you using.
Cash Copeland
In a message dated 4/21/2004 4:37:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mstewart@iss.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
5 gallons, 2min, 35 sec.
Mike
==
==
==
==
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
I have 230+ hours on my original set of auto plugs running on an Electroair
Ignition. No problems with plugs so far. Even if I had to replace them
every 100 hours, they would still be easier to deal with than aircraft
plugs.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
> --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
> Guys, there's a thread going on the Aeroelectric list about automotive
spark plugs used with electronic ignition systems. Apparently some folks
have had trouble with them, others no problems. The thread below says that
Jeff Rose at Electroair now recommends aircraft plugs...not sure why
exactly?
>
> I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto plugs in a
Lycosaur...what has been your experience? Specifically, I have a dual
Lightspeed Plasma II system on my O-360, and plan to use the plugs included
with the system by Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iow
> RV-8A N2D fwf stuff....
>
> From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Denis Walsh
<denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>
> I have been running Jeff Rose (Electroair) system on left drive for
> about a thousand hours. No significant problems. I used auto plugs as
> recommended by him for most of that time, but have used REM 37BYs for
> the past few hundred hours, at his (changed) recommendation.
>
> Never had any problem with the 386 or C86 Auto plugs lasting a hundred
> hours or several hundred with cleaning and regapping. I did quit
> regapping them and started discarding them when I discovered I was
> probably damaging them when gapping them. At a buck apiece it was
> smarter.
>
> The airplane REM 37 BYs that I am now using are certainly sturdier, but
> in my normal aspirated O-360 A1A, the auto ones were just fine, too.
>
> Hope this helps your research.
>
>
> Denis
>
> > I talked
> > to an engine builder at SnF who said the auto plugs are not holding up
> > as well
> > as the aviation plugs. Does anyone have several hundred hours of
> > flying on
> > auto plugs to substantiate or refute the claim?
> >
> > Stan Sutterfield
> > RV-8A
> > Tampa
>
>
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming 320 MT Propeller offer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
I want one! ...will you take $100 down and $100 a month!?
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <LeastDrag93066@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming 320 MT Propeller offer
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
I am making the following offer for new MT Propellers for the Lycoming 320
engine. These are electric constant speed propellers. They do not require
a
hydraulic governor, or any engine modification required to install a
hydraulic
governor.
MTV-17-C/178-59 propeller. 70" dia. 2 blade electric constant speed
propeller.
List price $9,260 ex works Germany ($600 to $1,000 additional delivery
cost).
Van's price $7,750 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA.
$7,350 Assembled in Southern California.
$7,350 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA
MTV-18-C/180-119d propeller. 70" dia. 3 blade electric constant speed
propeller.
List price $10,880 ex works Germany ($600 to $1,000 additional delivery
cost).
Van's price $9,390 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA.
$8,700 Assembled in Southern California.
$8,700 delivered to closest MT Assembly Facility in USA
Contact Jim Ayers at jim@lessdrag.com for details. Or call 805-795-5377.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
MT Propeller Certified Assembly Facility - Southern California
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Power Vs Speed Vs altitude |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Has anyone done any testing at various power settings to see what air
speeds are obtained. I am trying to find "the wall" where more power really
does little in the way of more speed. Right now I cruise at 60% power, Alt
9500, and 160 knts TAS and 7.5 gal an hour. This seems to be kind of a
sweet spot. Does any one else have any cruise data. Power settings Vs fuel
flow Vs altitude etc. I am just looking for in the ball park figures.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
"Sweet spot" depends on the relative value you put on speed and fuel economy.
My own sweet spot is at 152 kts (175 mph) at 12,500 ft burning 6.25 gph.
Another sweet spot definition is the point on the HP required vs IAS airspeed curve
of the aircraft that is tangent to a straight line drawn from the origin
(lower left corner of graph). This point turns out to be at about 130 - 135 mph
IAS on all RV types (3 - 6). This point does not change with altitude and
illustrates the increased efficiency at higher altitudes since any given IAS is
faster the higher you fly.
Tracy
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Smoke system - nozzle size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
Thanks Mike, I was wondering if there was a substitute for corvis oil.
Cash
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: Homebrew halon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Mike, I'll attach 3 Word documents and send this to both the list and to
your e-mail address ched (RV-list will strip off the attachments)- the 3
docs are things that I copied and pasted from www.H3R.com's website. Go
visit the site.
I'm plannng on putting the spray "wands" in the engine compartment with a
"pull the cable" activation system.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Homebrew halon
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
> Just curious since I just invested in a hand held Halon based fire
extinguisher for my 9A project, whether anyone has rigged one of these for
an engine fire?
>
> Seems to me that with some sort of attachment via a detachable hose that
runs from the fire extinguisher to the forward side of the firewall it would
be possible to smother a fire, at least on the ground. Doubtful in the air.
>
> Better still would be real world fire experiences anyone has had to share.
>
> Thanks
>
>
Message 51
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|
| Subject: | Re: Poor Man's GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Sam Buchanan wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> Albert Gardner wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
>>
>>ControlVision uses a hand-held computer and a GPS receiver to make a GPS
>>setup for navigation. At Copperstate last year I say another company that
>>does about the same thing but I can't remember their name. Does this ring a
>>bell with anyone? I'm interested in using the EZ Pilot autopilot from Trio
>>but ControlVision doesn't supply the proper GPS signal for EZ Pilot and
>>apparently doesn't plan on doing so in the future.
>>Albert Gardner
>>RV-9A 872RV
>>Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
> The Controlvision AnywhereMap system does indeed supply the NMEA data
> that is needed by the EZ-Pilot. The trick is to use a connection scheme
> that will allow you to access the data line. Call Controlvision; they
> can fix you up with the interfaces necessary to send NMEA to the EZ-Pilot.
I need to correct the above post. It has been brought to my attention by
someone who has every reason to know what he is talking about that
AnywhereMap does *not* send all the NMEA data that is required for
proper operation of the EZ-Pilot.
I apologize for the incorrect response.
Sam Buchanan
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | Trigear Heat Muff Placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
I assume I have the Robbins muff since it came with my Vetterman exhaust. Placement
on the left side is where I think Vans recommends. This placement provides
an effective heat shield for the fuel hose but complicates attachment of
the exhaust hangars to the engine case on that side.
Is there any problem with placing the muff on the crossover pipe between port 4
and 3 (in front of the sump)? About the only issue I can see is a long run from
the muff to the firewall.
Another question has to do with keeping this thing from moving or rattling around.
I understand there is some sort of high temperature cement that can be used
on exhaust systems. Is this true?
Thanks
Message 53
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|
| Subject: | Re: Trigear Heat Muff Placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
Mike: I will try my hand at answering your question about the heat muff on
an tri gear, I have a RV-6A, I have the Robbins heat muff, but mine is one
the right side pipe. I use the Carburetor heat on the front cross over
pipe. The sump bolt I used was the second bolt inboard for the exhaust
hanger and it worked fine. The pipe hangers is located just aft of the weld
on the pipe aft of the heat muff. You said you was having trouble keeping
the muff tight on the pipes. After putting the assembly together with the
small rods and nuts using the hose clamps with the kit around the front and
aft end of the muff it is held secure. The two half stainless pieces that
come with the kit should be a perfect fit around the pipe. My system has
been together for 300 hrs and is still very snug. I hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Trigear Heat Muff Placement
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
> I assume I have the Robbins muff since it came with my Vetterman exhaust.
Placement on the left side is where I think Vans recommends. This placement
provides an effective heat shield for the fuel hose but complicates
attachment of the exhaust hangars to the engine case on that side.
>
> Is there any problem with placing the muff on the crossover pipe between
port 4 and 3 (in front of the sump)? About the only issue I can see is a
long run from the muff to the firewall.
>
> Another question has to do with keeping this thing from moving or rattling
around. I understand there is some sort of high temperature cement that can
be used on exhaust systems. Is this true?
>
> Thanks
>
>
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto plugs in a
Lycosaur...what has been your experience? Specifically, I have a dual
Lightspeed Plasma II system on my O-360, and plan to use the plugs included
with the system by Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
45 hours on a 200hp IO-360-A1B6 with a single LightSpeed Plasma II with the
stock automotive plugs. My only regret is that I think I wish I installed
dual Lightspeeds...
Just had the plugs out this afternoon to check condition and gap, and they
were all still fine. I gap 'em at .032".
This engine is running strong and smooth. No complaints.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 55
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20031222_silicone_joint.jpg
I used about a foot of aluminum coming off the Gretz heated pitot tube, and
I used a short section of blue silicone 1/4" ID tubing to join the aluminum
and polyethylene tubing.
This setup passed an IFR pitot/static check a couple of months ago.
Several people commented that the hose clamps are not necessary. I believe
that but still left 'em on.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dwight Frye" <dwight@openweave.org>
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
>
>
> I'm intending to install a heated pitot, and know that I can't
> directly connect the flexible nylon style (NylaFlow) tubing to the
> pitot due to heat considerations. People have done this and have
> discovered that the heat from the pitot can melt the tubing ... which
> causes some minor problems. :) The NylaFlow tubing is much easier to
> work with than aluminum and at some point it pays to change to nylon
> if only for routing behind the panel (or so it seems to me).
>
> It seems that the recommendation is to use some length of aluminum
> tubing from the pitot, and then transition to the NylaFlow at a later
> point. The question is how to best make this transition. I've seen a
> number of suggestions, but am wondering if the particular approach
> shown at http://www.openweave.org/RV7/question.php would work. My trial
> fitting (as you see) looks great. It is a nice tight fit. But, I wanted
> to check with the list to see if there was anything I was missing ...
> and to answer a few questions I had regarding this approach.
>
> Questions I have are .....
>
> * With the aluminum and nylon both having the same OD, will it
> work to use the Nylo-Seal fitting with the aluminum in this
> manner?
>
> * If this will work, do I need to use any sealant (like EZLube) on
> any of the fittings? On the NylaFlow? On the aluminum?
>
> * I realize that if I use EZLube I should apply it to only the
> male threads/components. However, if it is used should it be
> applied to the small nylon bushing which is included with the
> Nylo-Seal as well as the threads?
>
> * Finally, it is my understanding that I should use the bushing on
> the NylaFlow tubing, but should I also use it on the aluminum
> tubing?
>
> Answers to these questions would be most appreciated. If you have any
> advice or experience in these matters please drop a note my way. If you
> want to see a picture better illustrating what I have in mind, take a
> look at http://www.openweave.org/RV7/question.php. Thanks!
>
> -- Dwight (working on wings/fuel-tanks with a QB fuselage in shop)
> do not archive
>
>
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: Poor Man's GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
Well, there is some confusion here. My Navaid and Controlvision work fine
together but Jerry Hansen at Trio (EZ Pilot) says the data stream from
Controlvision lacks something essential so the EZ Pilot is not compatible
with Controlvision's Anywhere Map at present. Jerry also emailed me today
and said Trio met with Controlvision at Sun 'n Fun and Controlvision was
going to send them beta software to test '...within two weeks' so it sounds
like it's just a matter of time. Meanwhile another RV-9A builder here in
Yuma who has an EZ Pilot in his hand is going up with me this weekend to
compare the Navaid against the EZ Pilot. For this test we'll supply GPS data
from a handheld for the EZ Pilot and from my Controlvision for the Navaid.
The EZ Pilot plugs into the Navaid wiring harness so it will be easy to swap
units. I'll post what we discover.
Albert Gardner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Poor Man's GPS
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> The Controlvision AnywhereMap system does indeed supply the NMEA data
> that is needed by the EZ-Pilot. The trick is to use a connection scheme
> that will allow you to access the data line. Call Controlvision; they
> can fix you up with the interfaces necessary to send NMEA to the EZ-Pilot.
> Here is the link to my article on how I ran the Navaid (same NMEA data
> as the EZ-Pilot) from my AWM.
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/ipaq.htm
> Sam Buchanan
>>
> Albert Gardner wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
<spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
> > ControlVision uses a hand-held computer and a GPS receiver to make a GPS
> > setup for navigation. At Copperstate last year I say another company
that
> > does about the same thing but I can't remember their name. Does this
ring a
> > bell with anyone? I'm interested in using the EZ Pilot autopilot from
Trio
> > but ControlVision doesn't supply the proper GPS signal for EZ Pilot and
> > apparently doesn't plan on doing so in the future.
> > Albert Gardner
> > RV-9A 872RV
> > Yuma, AZ
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
[snip]
> Why dosent somebody contact Jeff Rose and get the straight scoop?
>
>
Scott, I did so about a year ago. Just posted some comments from memory. You
are right, anyone that wants to really know should just call him. He is
agreat guy and will take the time to explain exactly why he recommends
certain things for his product.
Of course, I would not recommend calling him to ask why its "OK" to run
automotive plugs on Klaus' system. :-)
James
>
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
[snip]
> Guys, there's a thread going on the Aeroelectric list about
> automotive spark plugs used with electronic ignition systems.
> Apparently some folks have had trouble with them, others no
> problems. The thread below says that Jeff Rose at Electroair now
> recommends aircraft plugs...not sure why exactly?
Jeff found that the REM37BY's deliver another ~4HP if I recall correctly.
Better spark distribution or something of that matter.
I spoke with him at length about this and discovered that he was a proponent
of automotive plugs "way back when" ... even used to turn them on a lathe I
think to make them fit better.
He also discovered something about flame propagation that was not as good
with the automotive plugs. Give him a call and he will gladly fill you in on
why he recommends aircraft pugs on the ElectroAir EI systems. Of course
Klaus recommends the automotive plugs.
I swapped out our REM37BYs for some Autolite 386's. It did appear that there
was a little less power **BUT** that *might* have just benn my imagination.
Maybe the power of suggestion.
For sure, the automotive plugs are in fact cheaper.
James
>
> I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto
> plugs in a Lycosaur...what has been your experience?
> Specifically, I have a dual Lightspeed Plasma II system on my
> O-360, and plan to use the plugs included with the system by
> Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iow
> RV-8A N2D fwf stuff....
>
>
Message 59
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--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
I won't try to go into details but I was standing right next to the Trio
people and the ControlVision people when this dialogue occurred.
The conversation was as represented. If I were you, I would give them a few
weeks. ( A week or so for them to decompress from SnF and a week or two for
it all to be tested/sorted out.)
Disclaimer: I neither work for nor represent either company ... just
validating that they conversed on this matter.
James
[snip]
> Well, there is some confusion here. My Navaid and Controlvision work fine
> together but Jerry Hansen at Trio (EZ Pilot) says the data stream from
> Controlvision lacks something essential so the EZ Pilot is not compatible
> with Controlvision's Anywhere Map at present. Jerry also emailed me today
> and said Trio met with Controlvision at Sun 'n Fun and Controlvision was
> going to send them beta software to test '...within two weeks' so
> it sounds
> like it's just a matter of time. Meanwhile another RV-9A builder here in
[snip]
>
Message 60
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming 320 MT Propeller offer |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
In a message dated 04/21/2004 7:58:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bill@vondane.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
I want one! ...will you take $100 down and $100 a month!?
-Bill
It's better than that. NO MONTHLY PAYMENTS! 100% down
Just read the fine print. :-)
Jim Ayers
Message 61
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Forgot to mention below that I put the REM 37BYs back in after one or two
test flights.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James E. Clark
> Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 12:24 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>
>
> [snip]
>
> > Guys, there's a thread going on the Aeroelectric list about
> > automotive spark plugs used with electronic ignition systems.
> > Apparently some folks have had trouble with them, others no
> > problems. The thread below says that Jeff Rose at Electroair now
> > recommends aircraft plugs...not sure why exactly?
>
> Jeff found that the REM37BY's deliver another ~4HP if I recall correctly.
> Better spark distribution or something of that matter.
>
> I spoke with him at length about this and discovered that he was
> a proponent
> of automotive plugs "way back when" ... even used to turn them on
> a lathe I
> think to make them fit better.
>
> He also discovered something about flame propagation that was not as good
> with the automotive plugs. Give him a call and he will gladly
> fill you in on
> why he recommends aircraft pugs on the ElectroAir EI systems. Of course
> Klaus recommends the automotive plugs.
>
> I swapped out our REM37BYs for some Autolite 386's. It did appear
> that there
> was a little less power **BUT** that *might* have just benn my
> imagination.
> Maybe the power of suggestion.
>
> For sure, the automotive plugs are in fact cheaper.
>
>
> James
>
>
> >
> > I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto
> > plugs in a Lycosaur...what has been your experience?
> > Specifically, I have a dual Lightspeed Plasma II system on my
> > O-360, and plan to use the plugs included with the system by
> > Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iow
> > RV-8A N2D fwf stuff....
> >
> >
>
>
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