Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:56 AM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
2. 05:09 AM - Re: [[SPAM]] Smoke system - nozzle size? (RV8ter@aol.com)
3. 05:46 AM - Re: trim: springs vrs tabs (Jeff Dowling)
4. 05:59 AM - Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition (tacaruth@ralcorp.com)
5. 07:01 AM - NIB Smart Coupler II for sale (Bluecavu@aol.com)
6. 07:26 AM - Re: Poor Man's GPS (Eric Whiteside)
7. 07:53 AM - Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition (Dan Checkoway)
8. 09:04 AM - DVOR 100 Information Needed (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
9. 09:12 AM - Re: Need an GPS antenna... (Konrad Werner)
10. 09:13 AM - Re: Need an GPS antenna... (Konrad Werner)
11. 10:06 AM - Vetterman exhaust systems ()
12. 10:14 AM - Electronics Guru (Bill VonDane)
13. 10:35 AM - Re: Vetterman exhaust systems (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
14. 10:40 AM - Re: Vetterman exhaust systems (Bill VonDane)
15. 10:40 AM - Re: Vetterman exhaust systems (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
16. 10:53 AM - S-N-F Glassair crash (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
17. 11:04 AM - Stop the Noise (czechsix@juno.com)
18. 11:45 AM - Re: Stop the Noise (Scott Bilinski)
19. 12:04 PM - Shut down (Wheeler North)
20. 12:31 PM - Re: Shake Rattle and Roll - The Genesis (Dave Bristol)
21. 01:34 PM - Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition (tacaruth@ralcorp.com)
22. 01:43 PM - Re: Stop the Noise (Bob)
23. 01:51 PM - Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition (Dwight Frye)
24. 01:57 PM - Re: S-N-F Glassair crash (Cory Emberson)
25. 02:03 PM - SD-8 TEMPERATURE DATA (Ken Harrill)
26. 02:57 PM - Re: Stop the Noise (Joe Hine)
27. 03:55 PM - Re: Trim: spring vrs tabs (Gabe A Ferrer)
28. 04:54 PM - Re: Electronics Guru (Vince Himsl)
29. 04:59 PM - Re: Electronics Guru (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
30. 05:05 PM - Re: Stop the Noise (Jeff Cours)
31. 05:37 PM - Re: Stop the Noise (Vince Himsl)
32. 06:09 PM - Re: Electronics Guru (linn walters)
33. 06:12 PM - Re: Stop the Noise (Jim Daniels)
34. 06:27 PM - Re: Electronics Guru (Vince Himsl)
35. 07:16 PM - Re: Stop the Noise (Alex Peterson)
36. 07:41 PM - Re: Stop the Noise (Ralph E. Capen)
37. 07:44 PM - Garmin Etrex Legend in the cockpit? (Charlie & Tupper England)
38. 07:50 PM - Re: Electronics Guru (Charlie & Tupper England)
39. 07:58 PM - Re: Shut down (Charlie & Tupper England)
40. 08:20 PM - Re: Garmin Etrex Legend in the cockpit? (Terry Watson)
41. 11:47 PM - Fast Day Fly-In at EEN (Keene NH) (Warren W Hurd)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
I have 400 hours on one set of auto plugs, and 200 on another.
Have not seen a reason to replace them yet.
I replace about every 400 hours on my condition inspection.
Running dual LSI III's.
Mike
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kboatright1@comcast.net>
I have 230+ hours on my original set of auto plugs running on an
Electroair
Ignition. No problems with plugs so far. Even if I had to replace them
every 100 hours, they would still be easier to deal with than aircraft
plugs.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
> --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
> Guys, there's a thread going on the Aeroelectric list about automotive
spark plugs used with electronic ignition systems. Apparently some
folks
have had trouble with them, others no problems. The thread below says
that
Jeff Rose at Electroair now recommends aircraft plugs...not sure why
exactly?
>
> I'm interested in input from any RV'ers out there running auto plugs
in a
Lycosaur...what has been your experience? Specifically, I have a dual
Lightspeed Plasma II system on my O-360, and plan to use the plugs
included
with the system by Klaus. Any input good or bad would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iow
> RV-8A N2D fwf stuff....
>
> From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive Spark Plugs
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Denis Walsh
<denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>
> I have been running Jeff Rose (Electroair) system on left drive for
> about a thousand hours. No significant problems. I used auto plugs
as
> recommended by him for most of that time, but have used REM 37BYs for
> the past few hundred hours, at his (changed) recommendation.
>
> Never had any problem with the 386 or C86 Auto plugs lasting a hundred
> hours or several hundred with cleaning and regapping. I did quit
> regapping them and started discarding them when I discovered I was
> probably damaging them when gapping them. At a buck apiece it was
> smarter.
>
> The airplane REM 37 BYs that I am now using are certainly sturdier,
but
> in my normal aspirated O-360 A1A, the auto ones were just fine, too.
>
> Hope this helps your research.
>
>
> Denis
>
> > I talked
> > to an engine builder at SnF who said the auto plugs are not holding
up
> > as well
> > as the aviation plugs. Does anyone have several hundred hours of
> > flying on
> > auto plugs to substantiate or refute the claim?
> >
> > Stan Sutterfield
> > RV-8A
> > Tampa
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 2
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| Subject: | Smoke system - nozzle size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Interesting. Do you have complete pictures of your installation?
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: trim: springs vrs tabs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I switched from an aileron trim tab to the spring system on my 6. It was
easy to install, invisible, and works great. I dont think the ail trim tab
looks very good.
Im wondering if anyone uses a spring for rudder trim. It sure seems it
would work.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
68 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry James" <larry@ncproto.com>
Subject: RV-List: trim: springs vrs tabs
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry James" <larry@ncproto.com>
>
> I'm at another decision cross-roads and would like some input from those
> experienced RV drivers. I'm deciding which kind of trim system to
> incorporate for elevator; manual trim tab or servo trim tab, and aileron;
> manual springs or servo trim tab. My primary decision drivers are
> performance (in terms of light responsive controls) and simplicity (in
terms
> of weight and overall system complexity). These two drivers seem to be at
> odds with one another, so a compromise is in order. Any good advice ??
>
> Larry E. James (Bellevue, WA HR2)
> New Concepts Prototyping and Production
> phone 206 633 3111
> fax 206 633 3114
> larry@ncproto.com
>
> This electronic message is intended only for the individual(s) to whom it
is
> addressed and may contain information that is privileged, confidential, or
> exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this
> electronic message in error, would you please notify me immediately by
> return email, or by telephone (collect). Thank you.
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition |
04/22/2004 07:58:24 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: tacaruth@ralcorp.com
Do you have any pictures of how you attached the aluminum tubing to the
pitot tube. My Gretz heated pitot tube has only bare aluminum tubing
coming off it.
Thanks in advance,
Tom
"Dan Checkoway"
<dan@rvproject.co
m> To
Sent by: <rv-list@matronics.com>
owner-rv-list-ser cc
ver@matronics.com
Subject
Re: RV-List: Aluminum to Nylon
04/21/2004 11:04 Tubing Transition
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20031222_silicone_joint.jpg
I used about a foot of aluminum coming off the Gretz heated pitot tube, and
I used a short section of blue silicone 1/4" ID tubing to join the aluminum
and polyethylene tubing.
This setup passed an IFR pitot/static check a couple of months ago.
Several people commented that the hose clamps are not necessary. I believe
that but still left 'em on.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dwight Frye" <dwight@openweave.org>
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
>
>
> I'm intending to install a heated pitot, and know that I can't
> directly connect the flexible nylon style (NylaFlow) tubing to the
> pitot due to heat considerations. People have done this and have
> discovered that the heat from the pitot can melt the tubing ... which
> causes some minor problems. :) The NylaFlow tubing is much easier to
> work with than aluminum and at some point it pays to change to nylon
> if only for routing behind the panel (or so it seems to me).
>
> It seems that the recommendation is to use some length of aluminum
> tubing from the pitot, and then transition to the NylaFlow at a later
> point. The question is how to best make this transition. I've seen a
> number of suggestions, but am wondering if the particular approach
> shown at http://www.openweave.org/RV7/question.php would work. My trial
> fitting (as you see) looks great. It is a nice tight fit. But, I wanted
> to check with the list to see if there was anything I was missing ...
> and to answer a few questions I had regarding this approach.
>
> Questions I have are .....
>
> * With the aluminum and nylon both having the same OD, will it
> work to use the Nylo-Seal fitting with the aluminum in this
> manner?
>
> * If this will work, do I need to use any sealant (like EZLube) on
> any of the fittings? On the NylaFlow? On the aluminum?
>
> * I realize that if I use EZLube I should apply it to only the
> male threads/components. However, if it is used should it be
> applied to the small nylon bushing which is included with the
> Nylo-Seal as well as the threads?
>
> * Finally, it is my understanding that I should use the bushing on
> the NylaFlow tubing, but should I also use it on the aluminum
> tubing?
>
> Answers to these questions would be most appreciated. If you have any
> advice or experience in these matters please drop a note my way. If you
> want to see a picture better illustrating what I have in mind, take a
> look at http://www.openweave.org/RV7/question.php. Thanks!
>
> -- Dwight (working on wings/fuel-tanks with a QB fuselage in shop)
> do not archive
>
>
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
Message 5
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| Subject: | NIB Smart Coupler II for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bluecavu@aol.com
New in the box Smart Coupler II for sale -make offer
Thanks,
Scott
do not archive
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Whiteside" <erwhites@bellsouth.net>
There was a product demo'ed at Sun-n-Fun called NAVAIR (www.airgator.com)
similar to Controlvision/Anywheremap. They also have optional in-flight
weather displays using XM
satellite radio broadcast. (special receiver and subscription required.) It
looked like
worthy competition to Anywheremap.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Subject: Re: RV-List: Poor Man's GPS
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
--> <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
Well, there is some confusion here. My Navaid and Controlvision work fine
together but Jerry Hansen at Trio (EZ Pilot) says the data stream from
Controlvision lacks something essential so the EZ Pilot is not compatible
with Controlvision's Anywhere Map at present. Jerry also emailed me today
and said Trio met with Controlvision at Sun 'n Fun and Controlvision was
going to send them beta software to test '...within two weeks' so it sounds
like it's just a matter of time. Meanwhile another RV-9A builder here in
Yuma who has an EZ Pilot in his hand is going up with me this weekend to
compare the Navaid against the EZ Pilot. For this test we'll supply GPS data
from a handheld for the EZ Pilot and from my Controlvision for the Navaid.
The EZ Pilot plugs into the Navaid wiring harness so it will be easy to swap
units. I'll post what we discover. Albert Gardner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Poor Man's GPS
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> The Controlvision AnywhereMap system does indeed supply the NMEA data
> that is needed by the EZ-Pilot. The trick is to use a connection
> scheme that will allow you to access the data line. Call
> Controlvision; they can fix you up with the interfaces necessary to
> send NMEA to the EZ-Pilot. Here is the link to my article on how I ran
> the Navaid (same NMEA data as the EZ-Pilot) from my AWM.
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/ipaq.htm
> Sam Buchanan
>>
> Albert Gardner wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
<spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
> > ControlVision uses a hand-held computer and a GPS receiver to make a
> > GPS setup for navigation. At Copperstate last year I say another
> > company
that
> > does about the same thing but I can't remember their name. Does this
ring a
> > bell with anyone? I'm interested in using the EZ Pilot autopilot
> > from
Trio
> > but ControlVision doesn't supply the proper GPS signal for EZ Pilot
> > and apparently doesn't plan on doing so in the future. Albert
> > Gardner RV-9A 872RV
> > Yuma, AZ
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Do you have any pictures of how you attached the aluminum tubing to the
> pitot tube. My Gretz heated pitot tube has only bare aluminum tubing
> coming off it.
It's just like any other AN flared connection.
My Gretz tube came with a very short length of tubing with a brazed/welded
flared male AN fitting on the end. I just flared the end of my aluminum
tubing and used AN fittings like anything else.
If you're not familiar with AN fittings, now's the time to learn! There are
lots more in your future... 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | DVOR 100 Information Needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Listers,
I posted this request on the Avionics-List with no result.
Does anyone have any information, schematic, pinout, or manual on the HT
Instruments DVOR 100 indicator? I probably won't put this in my plane, but would
like to play with it on the bench to learn how it works, and study the design
for my own curiosity.
Thanks,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Need an GPS antenna... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
Bill,
While cleaning out my Inbox I found this email of yours: Did you ever find yourself
an antenna for your GPS.
If not, I do have one of the small black noncertified, but active GPS Antennas
that Gretz Aero sells.
Let me know at your convenience.
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
To: rv-list@matronics.com ; rv8list@yahoogroups.com ; vansairforce
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 11:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Need an GPS antenna...
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
If any one of you fine folks out there have one of those little black Garmin
hockey puck GPS antennas that you're not going to be using, I sure could use
one...
Here's a photo of what I an looking for:
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/gpsa.jpg
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Need an GPS antenna... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
Bill,
While cleaning out my Inbox I found this email of yours: Did you ever find yourself
an antenna for your GPS.
If not, I do have one of the small black noncertified, but active GPS Antennas
that Gretz Aero sells.
Let me know at your convenience.
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
To: rv-list@matronics.com ; rv8list@yahoogroups.com ; vansairforce
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 11:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Need an GPS antenna...
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
If any one of you fine folks out there have one of those little black Garmin
hockey puck GPS antennas that you're not going to be using, I sure could use
one...
Here's a photo of what I an looking for:
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/gpsa.jpg
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Vetterman exhaust systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
I just recieved from Vans the Vetterman exhaust systems for my 7A which has a IO360.
To surprise it does not include the heat muff even though it costs the same
as ones with the heat muff and the web page on the heat muff said "This heat
muff is the same universal one that comes with our regular exhaust system.".
To my dismay Vans said the heat muff is not included because it does not fit
on the fuel injected engine, and sent me to talk to Vetterman. My question is
what is everyone doing to get cabin heat? This plane is going to be worthless
here in Wisconsin without cabin heat!
Phil Jones
Message 12
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| Subject: | Electronics Guru |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Ok, I need some help... I want to roll my own 24v to 12v voltage reducer
and would like to talk to someone who know about these things...
Please contact me off list...
-Bill VonDane
bill@vondane.com
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Vetterman exhaust systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Phil,
I bought the firewall forward kit from Van's for my -7A and it came with the
heat muff. I don't think it is considered part of the exhaust system. There
may have been some miscommunications. My heat muff is on the right front
exhaust (no. 1 cyl.) and measures 8 inches long. May be a little short of heat,
but that's what the plans call for.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/22/04 12:07:26 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
phil.jones@medpacs.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
>
> I just recieved from Vans the Vetterman exhaust systems for my 7A which has
> a IO360. To surprise it does not include the heat muff even though it costs
> the same as ones with the heat muff and the web page on the heat muff said
> "This heat muff is the same universal one that comes with our regular exhaust
> system.". To my dismay Vans said the heat muff is not included because it does
> not fit on the fuel injected engine, and sent me to talk to Vetterman. My
> question is what is everyone doing to get cabin heat? This plane is going to
be
> worthless here in Wisconsin without cabin heat!
>
> Phil Jones
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Vetterman exhaust systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Phil... My buddy has a Robbins heat muff on his IO360 and vetterman
exhaust... It seems to me there was only one place it would fit, but it did
fit...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
Subject: RV-List: Vetterman exhaust systems
--> RV-List message posted by: <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
I just recieved from Vans the Vetterman exhaust systems for my 7A which has
a IO360. To surprise it does not include the heat muff even though it costs
the same as ones with the heat muff and the web page on the heat muff said
"This heat muff is the same universal one that comes with our regular
exhaust system.". To my dismay Vans said the heat muff is not included
because it does not fit on the fuel injected engine, and sent me to talk to
Vetterman. My question is what is everyone doing to get cabin heat? This
plane is going to be worthless here in Wisconsin without cabin heat!
Phil Jones
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Vetterman exhaust systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Phil,
I forgot to mention that I have the IO-360-A1A angle valve engine, and it
fits just fine. I don't know why Van's would have told you that it doesn't fit.
Dan
In a message dated 4/22/04 12:36:12 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> Phil,
>
> I bought the firewall forward kit from Van's for my -7A and it came with the
>
> heat muff. I don't think it is considered part of the exhaust system.
> There
> may have been some miscommunications. My heat muff is on the right front
> exhaust (no. 1 cyl.) and measures 8 inches long. May be a little short of
> heat,
> but that's what the plans call for.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (almost done)
>
>
> In a message dated 4/22/04 12:07:26 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> phil.jones@medpacs.com writes:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
> >
> >I just recieved from Vans the Vetterman exhaust systems for my 7A which has
>
> >a IO360. To surprise it does not include the heat muff even though it costs
>
> >the same as ones with the heat muff and the web page on the heat muff said
> >"This heat muff is the same universal one that comes with our regular
> exhaust
> >system.". To my dismay Vans said the heat muff is not included because it
> does
> >not fit on the fuel injected engine, and sent me to talk to Vetterman. My
> >question is what is everyone doing to get cabin heat? This plane is going
> to be
> >worthless here in Wisconsin without cabin heat!
> >
> >Phil Jones
> >
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | S-N-F Glassair crash |
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
There was a post the other day about this crash and how it took place.
When I saw pictures of the crash I though I had seen this plane before
and as it turns out I did. In the most recent (I believe) Sport Aviation mag
(RV 10 on the front) there is a big write up on this very Glassair N-333ZZ.
I double checked on the tail number at LAL and it was the same plane.
This was a very modified plane. If you do a search on Google.com it
lists all the awards it had won.
do not archive
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
Take a look at this:
http://www.stopthenoise.org/problemindex.htm
This kinda stuff makes your blood boil. You read this kind of agenda and it's
easy to see that not only is GA under attack, but SPECIFICALLY recreational aviation.
Things aren't gonna get any easier for us to protect our flying rights.
Obviously groups like Stop the Noise need to be fought on legal and political
grounds, and AOPA is already doing this, but it's also a good reminder to
do everything we can (short of stop flying altogether) to avoid irritating people
unnecessarily.
Which brings up the question, has anyone fitted a good muffler to an RV that fits
inside the cowl and is reasonably light? I know this won't make radical anti-GA
people go away, but it would reduce our noise signature which would be nice
for both the folks on the ground and us in the cockpit. Europeans already
live under strict noise rules and their airplanes are pretty quiet, but I haven't
seen a muffler system on the market that would be a bolt-on item for the
RV series (except the -10, which does have a muffler).
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
There is another approach to making the engine quiet. A Electronic Ignition
causes a more complete combustion in the combustion chamber. This is why
your EGT temps go down and your CHT temps go up with EI. Burning the
air/fuel mixture in the engine instead of dumping still burning gas into
the exhaust system makes a big difference in the amount of noise put out.
Also the prop can make a lot of noise, I have the WW 151 and with the
smaller dia 68", and small tips it is very quiet. On take off people tell
me my IO-360 is much quieter than other RV's at the field. One guy even
made a comment it sounds more like a auto engine.
At 06:03 PM 4/22/04 +0000, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
>Guys,
>
>Take a look at this:
>
>http://www.stopthenoise.org/problemindex.htm
>
>This kinda stuff makes your blood boil. You read this kind of agenda and
>it's easy to see that not only is GA under attack, but SPECIFICALLY
>recreational aviation. Things aren't gonna get any easier for us to protect
>our flying rights. Obviously groups like Stop the Noise need to be fought
>on legal and political grounds, and AOPA is already doing this, but it's
>also a good reminder to do everything we can (short of stop flying
>altogether) to avoid irritating people unnecessarily.
>
>Which brings up the question, has anyone fitted a good muffler to an RV that
>fits inside the cowl and is reasonably light? I know this won't make
>radical anti-GA people go away, but it would reduce our noise signature
>which would be nice for both the folks on the ground and us in the cockpit.
>Europeans already live under strict noise rules and their airplanes are
>pretty quiet, but I haven't seen a muffler system on the market that would
>be a bolt-on item for the RV series (except the -10, which does have a
>muffler).
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D finishing...
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
The first seed was planted when I was a 15 hr student pilot in a C-152
waaaayyyyy back in 2000. My instructor demonstrated how even with the
mixture set for idle cutoff the engine could start and kill you. We shut
the plane off by pulling the mixture. About 30 seconds later we spun the
engine and it fired for about second then died.
Guys,
just to clarify, this is an example of comparing apples to oil filters and
getting lucky.
The older smaller engines often used a bendix back suction carb where the
ambient float bowl pressure was altered as the means to vary mixture. This
was done with a rotory gate valve that ported between MAP and pre throttle
pressure.
These engines often won't shut down no matter what you do, but sometimes
they will if the idle is raised. They can then start at anytime, and won't
shut off until there is enough MAP to drop the bowl pressure back to cut
off.
Any carbs without this or a positive means to shut off the fuel flow will
run-on if the RPM is high enough such that the carb is running on the
transition ports as well as the idle port. This is common in cars with the
idle set to high.
Marvel-Schebler Carb's mixture control is a rotory cylinder valve that shuts
off all fuel flow to any of the jets when in idle cutoff postion. With a
Bendix/Presicision/RSA injected engine they have a positive fuel shut off
rotory gate valve which then seats the diaphram poppet valve, which then
seats the manifold valve, shutting off fuel flow right there.
Using a slightly elevated RPM on either of these causes the engine to run
out of gas more abruptly, which reduces the duration of the "poor running"
period.
Apparently the Airflow performance units do not always fully seat the
manifold valve without some means to dump the pre manifold valve pressure.
(I've tested this and they do produce a slight amount of flow at idle cut
off)
If any of the above other than the back suction or the Airflow Performance
are running on indefinately, then they are not in design parameters.
W
PS, Continental does injection very differently so this does not fully
apply.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Shake Rattle and Roll - The Genesis |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
This is not true with our carbs. The mixture control is actually a valve
that controls the fuel directly. The old Strombergs that were used on
the small Continentals like the A65/75 did use such a mixture control
and they didn't work very well, in fact most of them were wired in the
rich position.
Dave Bristol -6 SoCal
EAA Technical Counselor
>
>He explained to me that idle cutoff works by not actually shutting off the
>fuel, but by blocking the breather in the carb. Thats why the reaction
>isnt instantaneous while you are leaning. It takes a while for a vacuum to
>be pulled inside the part of the carb affected.
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition |
04/22/2004 03:33:38 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: tacaruth@ralcorp.com
Thanks, My pitot tube has "only bare aluminum tubing" about 2" long, no
fittings and no way to get fitting on them. I'm probably looking at a
compression fitting of some type.
Tom
"Dan Checkoway"
<dan@rvproject.co
m> To
Sent by: <rv-list@matronics.com>
owner-rv-list-ser cc
ver@matronics.com
Subject
Re: RV-List: Aluminum to Nylon
04/22/2004 09:51 Tubing Transition
AM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Do you have any pictures of how you attached the aluminum tubing to the
> pitot tube. My Gretz heated pitot tube has only bare aluminum tubing
> coming off it.
It's just like any other AN flared connection.
My Gretz tube came with a very short length of tubing with a brazed/welded
flared male AN fitting on the end. I just flared the end of my aluminum
tubing and used AN fittings like anything else.
If you're not familiar with AN fittings, now's the time to learn! There
are
lots more in your future... 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
I have done some extensive research on all of these groups. At first
glance I felt the exact same way that the below lister did. But upon
reflection, I can see the other side of the issue.
As one person wrote, every Saturday and Sunday morning, the Aerobatic box
over or near his house opens at 0800 and closes at dark, and as soon as one
plane leaves another enters the box. I love airplanes, but I do believe
that even I would eventually tire of this noise, especially if most of the
akro is bad Akro flying between 1500 and 2500 feet AGL.
They specifically state they are not trying to stop, commercial flights,
medical flights or private flights with a transportation purpose, they are
mostly against AKRO flights or training flights that stay in one place and
never go away.
One noise group has assigned tailnumber watchers with highpower telescopes
and cameras. They are the ones that want the 24" tailnumbers on the bottom
of the wings. My 3" tailnumbers are almost unreadable at 200 feet AGL,
hence the desire for 24" numbers.
When I used to fly Akro out of Houston, we did it out over the bay, not
over someone's country home or farm. Now I live in WV and I try and keep
my Akro work 5000 to 7000 feet AGL and limit my practice time to about 10
minutes. I also vary my practice area. My RV6 is the only Akro aircraft
at my airport, so I am not that hard to find once the complaints roll in.
I have had noise complaints about my flying over my farm. I live in the
mountains and the person making the complaint could not even see my
aircraft as I was below ridge top level. But, she could hear it. She
could not make an official complaint without an aircraft description or
tailnumber.
My point is: legally we can fly Akro 1500 feet AGL over sparsely populated
areas, but if we upset enough people the FAA Regulations can be changed to
our detriment. I understand the anger and frustration of the stop the
noise people. I am convinced, they will not stop until the aircraft noise
stops!
For the most part (unless they are growing something illegal) they don't
care if someone flies overhead as long as they don't hear it. We need to
fly friendly or become sailplane pilots.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
At 01:03 PM 4/22/04, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
>Guys,
>
>Take a look at this:
>
>http://www.stopthenoise.org/problemindex.htm
>
>This kinda stuff makes your blood boil. You read this kind of agenda and
>it's easy to see that not only is GA under attack, but SPECIFICALLY
>recreational aviation. Things aren't gonna get any easier for us to
>protect our flying rights. Obviously groups like Stop the Noise need to
>be fought on legal and political grounds, and AOPA is already doing this,
>but it's also a good reminder to do everything we can (short of stop
>flying altogether) to avoid irritating people unnecessarily.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum to Nylon Tubing Transition |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
On Thu Apr 22 16:29:45 2004, tacaruth@ralcorp.com wrote :
>Thanks, My pitot tube has "only bare aluminum tubing" about 2" long, no
>fittings and no way to get fitting on them. I'm probably looking at a
>compression fitting of some type.
This sounds similar to the pitot being offered by the Dynon folks. It
has two pieces of aluminum tubing coming out of the top of the pitot
and in talking with them at Sun-N-Fun they suggested just flaring the
tube and using an AN fitting Something like an AN919 fitting is required
for them, in fact, since the small tube diameter on the pitot itself
seemingly will require a "reduction fitting" to adapt to the aluminum
tubing in the rest of the wing.
If your tubing diameter in your wing is the same as the one from your
pitot ... I'd guess an AN815 union fitting of the correct size would be
more appropriate.
-- Dwight
do not archive
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: S-N-F Glassair crash |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cory Emberson" <bootless@earthlink.net>
It was also featured on the August 2003 cover of Kitplanes.
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <CBRxxDRV@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: S-N-F Glassair crash
> --> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>
> There was a post the other day about this crash and how it took place.
> When I saw pictures of the crash I though I had seen this plane before
> and as it turns out I did. In the most recent (I believe) Sport Aviation
mag
> (RV 10 on the front) there is a big write up on this very Glassair
N-333ZZ.
> I double checked on the tail number at LAL and it was the same plane.
> This was a very modified plane. If you do a search on Google.com it
> lists all the awards it had won.
>
> do not archive
>
>
> Sal Capra
> Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
> http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | SD-8 TEMPERATURE DATA |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Harrill <KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us>
RV-6 CRUISING AT 9300 FT DENSITY ALTITUDE, 2400 RPM
THE TEMPERATURE PROBE ATTACHED WITH ALUMINUM TAPE TO THE SD-8 REGULATOR
DATA RECORDING BEGAN AFTER 45 MINUTES OF FLIGHT
AT TIME :00 SD-8 ALTERNATOR SWITCHED ON AND MAIN ALTERNATOR SWITCHED OFF
TIME OAT - F REGULATOR - F
:00 43 86
:07 45 97
:12 45 100
:16 45 101
:19 45 101
:24 45 102
:28 45 101
:36 45 100
:43 45 99
LOAD ANALYSIS:
TYPICAL MAXIMUM
AMPS AMPS
ENG MONITOR 0.4 0.4
GPS 1.5 1.5
ALT ENCODER 0.2 0.3
TRANSPONDER 1.8 1.8
TURN COORDINATOR 0.4 1.0
INTERCOMM 0.2 0.2
EFIS 0.8 1.0
COMM RADIO 0.3 3.2
TOTAL 5.6 9.4
This data does not indicate a heat problem for this installation in which
the regulator is bolted directly to the firewall.
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
Mark
A local builder here in Fredericton N.B. has built 4 RV's with an exhaust
system he builds up himself, including a muffler. There is one other 6
locally that copied his system. They work very well and are noticeably
quieter. He was considering marketing the system, but I don't think he has
done anything to follow up. All four pipes go to one muffler with an
exhaust pipe going out the bottom of the cowl. He did send some photos to
Vans a number of years ago and they were published in the rvator.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of czechsix@juno.com
Subject: RV-List: Stop the Noise
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
Take a look at this:
http://www.stopthenoise.org/problemindex.htm
This kinda stuff makes your blood boil. You read this kind of agenda and
it's easy to see that not only is GA under attack, but SPECIFICALLY
recreational aviation. Things aren't gonna get any easier for us to protect
our flying rights. Obviously groups like Stop the Noise need to be fought
on legal and political grounds, and AOPA is already doing this, but it's
also a good reminder to do everything we can (short of stop flying
altogether) to avoid irritating people unnecessarily.
Which brings up the question, has anyone fitted a good muffler to an RV that
fits inside the cowl and is reasonably light? I know this won't make
radical anti-GA people go away, but it would reduce our noise signature
which would be nice for both the folks on the ground and us in the cockpit.
Europeans already live under strict noise rules and their airplanes are
pretty quiet, but I haven't seen a muffler system on the market that would
be a bolt-on item for the RV series (except the -10, which does have a
muffler).
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Trim: spring vrs tabs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
I installed a manual elevator trim. Works great.
I had flown RV6's with electric elevator trim and I could not get used to their
sensitivity. Too fast for me.
May be due to my age?
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 111 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
Message 28
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| Subject: | Electronics Guru |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
We electronic types call what you want generically a voltage converter though technically
I suppose it is a series voltage
regulator circuit. Anyway...
The simplest and easiest way I know is to use a Series adjustable Voltage Regulator
Chip from National Instruments called
an LM317. With a given input voltage and the selection of a couple of resistors
and capacitors(for filtering) you can
create a simple device that will maintain a constant 12 VDC and ~ 1.5 Amps when
the input fluctuates between 13(1VDC above
output) and 36 VDC (upper limit I believe).
Radio Shack should have this and possibly have a circuit in one of their project
books.
I suspect however, that 'Google' will show you tons of premade units that are too
cheap to justify making your own.
But if you still want to 'roll your own'... go to: http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM317.html There is a tab called
application notes. The link: http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-181.pdf will show you a couple of sample circuits.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Subject: RV-List: Electronics Guru
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Ok, I need some help... I want to roll my own 24v to 12v voltage reducer
and would like to talk to someone who know about these things...
Please contact me off list...
-Bill VonDane
bill@vondane.com
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Electronics Guru |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Vince,
What if you wanted, say, 6 amps?
Dan RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/22/04 6:55:02 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
vhimsl@turbonet.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
>
> We electronic types call what you want generically a voltage converter
> though technically I suppose it is a series voltage
> regulator circuit. Anyway...
>
> The simplest and easiest way I know is to use a Series adjustable Voltage
> Regulator Chip from National Instruments called
> an LM317. With a given input voltage and the selection of a couple of
> resistors and capacitors(for filtering) you can
> create a simple device that will maintain a constant 12 VDC and ~ 1.5 Amps
> when the input fluctuates between 13(1VDC above
> output) and 36 VDC (upper limit I believe).
> Regards,
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
Joe Hine wrote:
> A local builder here in Fredericton N.B. has built 4 RV's with an
> exhaust system he builds up himself, including a muffler. There is
> one other 6 locally that copied his system. They work very well and
> are noticeably quieter. He was considering marketing the system, but
> I don't think he has done anything to follow up. All four pipes go to
> one muffler with an exhaust pipe going out the bottom of the cowl. He
> did send some photos to Vans a number of years ago and they were
> published in the rvator.
I'm still a very long way from working on the exhaust system, but I've
been intrigued with the idea of a quiet airplane for some time, now. If
someone has the year, or approximate year, of the RVAtor, could you
please pass it along?
I'm not up to building a YO-3A, but I'd be overjoyed to get cabin noise
down to about the level of a cheap passenger car, and would probably be
willing to sacrifice a bit of speed to do it. I'm guessing the first
priorities are prop and exhaust noise, which may mean a small-ish or 3
blade prop and a pretty good muffler. Next would be some sound deading
or vibration suppression at the firewall, floor, and sides, and some
attention to sealing the gaps around the canopy.
- Jeff C.
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
I am curious to know if anyone has tried the "Swedish Muffler" referred to in "Firewall
Forward"?
Vince Himsl
RV8-SB Finish
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Electronics Guru |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
For what .... or why? Where does the 24V come from? The simplest (but
heaviest, I think) would be to use two 12V batteries in series, and then
tap off the 12V to run whatever it is. A DC to DC converter will work
too, but it's been years (many :-P ) since I designed my last one. I
guess the answer lies somewhere between how much you want it to weigh
Vs. how much you want to spend!!!
Linn
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>Vince,
>
>What if you wanted, say, 6 amps?
>
>Dan RV-7A (almost done)
>
>
>In a message dated 4/22/04 6:55:02 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
>vhimsl@turbonet.com writes:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
>>
>>We electronic types call what you want generically a voltage converter
>>though technically I suppose it is a series voltage
>>regulator circuit. Anyway...
>>
>>The simplest and easiest way I know is to use a Series adjustable Voltage
>>Regulator Chip from National Instruments called
>>an LM317. With a given input voltage and the selection of a couple of
>>resistors and capacitors(for filtering) you can
>>create a simple device that will maintain a constant 12 VDC and ~ 1.5 Amps
>>when the input fluctuates between 13(1VDC above
>>output) and 36 VDC (upper limit I believe).
>>Regards,
>>Vince Himsl
>>RV8 - SB Finish
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
Jim Daniels
Message 34
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| Subject: | Electronics Guru |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
If you have several unique items that require 12 VDC at ~1 AMP or less then make
the circuit below for each item. Avoids
single point of failure. Make extras for replacement. Else...
My requirements have always been met with LM317 circuit or similar variants. I
don't off the top of my head have a 'slick
chip' for higher currents. Others on list will probably have some suggestions
though my vote still is with buying a
voltage/power converter off the shelf at 'Digi-Key' or 'Newark' etc. especially
if it will power a radio, transponder, etc.
A note of caution: when I troubleshoot electronic instrumentation (university research),
I first check the power supply as
experience has shown me that is where most equipment failures originate. So unless
your circuit is right on in its design
and construction, don't use it on something necessary for the pucker factor free
continuation of your flight.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronics Guru
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Vince,
What if you wanted, say, 6 amps?
Dan RV-7A (almost done)
In a message dated 4/22/04 6:55:02 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
vhimsl@turbonet.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
>
> We electronic types call what you want generically a voltage converter
> though technically I suppose it is a series voltage
> regulator circuit. Anyway...
>
> The simplest and easiest way I know is to use a Series adjustable Voltage
> Regulator Chip from National Instruments called
> an LM317. With a given input voltage and the selection of a couple of
> resistors and capacitors(for filtering) you can
> create a simple device that will maintain a constant 12 VDC and ~ 1.5 Amps
> when the input fluctuates between 13(1VDC above
> output) and 36 VDC (upper limit I believe).
> Regards,
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
>
Message 35
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> I'm not up to building a YO-3A, but I'd be overjoyed to get
> cabin noise
> down to about the level of a cheap passenger car, and would
> probably be
> willing to sacrifice a bit of speed to do it. I'm guessing the first
> priorities are prop and exhaust noise, which may mean a
> small-ish or 3
> blade prop and a pretty good muffler. Next would be some
> sound deading
> or vibration suppression at the firewall, floor, and sides, and some
> attention to sealing the gaps around the canopy.
>
> - Jeff C.
The floor and side insulation helps a lot. The best way to quiet down
an RV is to fly real slow. The bulk of the noise at cruise is simply
white noise from air flow around the plane. The prop and exhaust noises
can be reduced if not eliminated via ANR (BTW, I use a Bose X and love
it. I tried a Telex top of the line headset last year, and it's ANR was
so good that I was uncomfortable not hearing any sign of the engine
rpm/power).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 458 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Great idea - unless you have a nosewheel (A) with FI......but they tell me
they're working on it...I'm hopeful!
SNIP
> How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
Message 37
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| Subject: | Garmin Etrex Legend in the cockpit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
I'm considering the Etrex Legend as a GPS driver for my IPAQ & as a
backup GPS with it's non-aviation mapping ability.
Is anyone out there currently using one? What are your experiences?
Thanks,
Charlie
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Electronics Guru |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
A 'switcher' is the most efficient method, but for cheap you can still
use the 317 to drive the base terminal of a high-current 'pass
transistor'. The application notes for the device will almost certainly
offer a design & parts list to achieve this.
Charlie
>
>Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>>
>>Vince,
>>
>>What if you wanted, say, 6 amps?
>>
>>Dan RV-7A (almost done)
>>
>>
>>In a message dated 4/22/04 6:55:02 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
>>vhimsl@turbonet.com writes:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
>>>
>>>We electronic types call what you want generically a voltage converter
>>>though technically I suppose it is a series voltage
>>>regulator circuit. Anyway...
>>>
>>>The simplest and easiest way I know is to use a Series adjustable Voltage
>>>Regulator Chip from National Instruments called
>>>an LM317. With a given input voltage and the selection of a couple of
>>>resistors and capacitors(for filtering) you can
>>>create a simple device that will maintain a constant 12 VDC and ~ 1.5 Amps
>>>when the input fluctuates between 13(1VDC above
>>>output) and 36 VDC (upper limit I believe).
>>>Regards,
>>>Vince Himsl
>>>RV8 - SB Finish
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 39
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--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Wheeler North wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>The first seed was planted when I was a 15 hr student pilot in a C-152
>waaaayyyyy back in 2000. My instructor demonstrated how even with the
>mixture set for idle cutoff the engine could start and kill you. We shut
>the plane off by pulling the mixture. About 30 seconds later we spun the
>engine and it fired for about second then died.
>
>
>Guys,
>
>just to clarify, this is an example of comparing apples to oil filters and
>getting lucky.
>
>The older smaller engines often used a bendix back suction carb where the
>ambient float bowl pressure was altered as the means to vary mixture. This
>was done with a rotory gate valve that ported between MAP and pre throttle
>pressure.
>
>These engines often won't shut down no matter what you do, but sometimes
>they will if the idle is raised. They can then start at anytime, and won't
>shut off until there is enough MAP to drop the bowl pressure back to cut
>off.
>
>Any carbs without this or a positive means to shut off the fuel flow will
>run-on if the RPM is high enough such that the carb is running on the
>transition ports as well as the idle port. This is common in cars with the
>idle set to high.
>
>Marvel-Schebler Carb's mixture control is a rotory cylinder valve that shuts
>off all fuel flow to any of the jets when in idle cutoff postion. With a
>Bendix/Presicision/RSA injected engine they have a positive fuel shut off
>rotory gate valve which then seats the diaphram poppet valve, which then
>seats the manifold valve, shutting off fuel flow right there.
>
>Using a slightly elevated RPM on either of these causes the engine to run
>out of gas more abruptly, which reduces the duration of the "poor running"
>period.
>
>Apparently the Airflow performance units do not always fully seat the
>manifold valve without some means to dump the pre manifold valve pressure.
>(I've tested this and they do produce a slight amount of flow at idle cut
>off)
>
>If any of the above other than the back suction or the Airflow Performance
>are running on indefinately, then they are not in design parameters.
>
>W
>
>PS, Continental does injection very differently so this does not fully
>apply.
>
I've never looked inside the Bendix injection on the Lycs, but the best
hot-start procedure for me on both a 160 & an angle valve 200 (certified
installs) after an idle stop shutdown was to open the throttle fully
with the mixture at idle cutoff & crank a few blades until the engine
fires. To me, this implies that you shouldn't assume that idle cutoff
will stop fuel flow & prevent engine start (even though it won't
continue to run). This takes us back to the 1st paragraph above.
Charlie
Message 40
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| Subject: | Garmin Etrex Legend in the cockpit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Charlie,
I have a Garmin eTrex Vista that I use for hiking. This particular model of
the eTrex has an atmospheric pressure sensing altimeter and an electronic
compass in it. I had planned to use it for a backup flying, but then I
bought a Garmin 196.
The eTrex is very small but it is designed to hold in your right hand to
squeeze buttons with your fingers and use a little joystick with your thumb.
I think it would be a bit awkward to use extensively in the cockpit, but it
sure would be nice to have along if everything else failed and you were
lost. The screen and text on the screen are quite small, which isn't a
problem hiking but might be flying. As a driver for the Ipaq, it might be
just fine.
Terry
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England
<cengland@netdoor.com>
I'm considering the Etrex Legend as a GPS driver for my IPAQ & as a
backup GPS with it's non-aviation mapping ability.
Is anyone out there currently using one? What are your experiences?
Thanks,
Charlie
Message 41
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| Subject: | Fast Day Fly-In at EEN (Keene NH) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Warren W Hurd <warren@ahyup.com>
Good Day RV builders and flyers,
We are having a small fly-in this Sunday at Keene Airport (EEN) from
10:00 until 2:00 The fly-in is called the "Fast Day Fly-In" after the
old NH Fast Day Holiday, so come help us celebrate. We will have burgers
and dogs on the grill. If the winds cooperate we will have the long
awaited "Flying upside down and mowing the grass with a RC helicopter
demo" So stop by and say hi. It would be fun to see some RV's
More info at http://www.ahyup.com/fast/
Thank You
Warren Hurd
RV builder 90454
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