Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:18 AM - Re: Garmin Etrex Legend in the cockpit? (Brian Kraut)
2. 05:45 AM - Re: Stop the Noise (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
3. 05:59 AM - Re: trim: springs vrs tabs (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
4. 07:10 AM - Re: Electronics Guru (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
5. 07:28 AM - Re: Electronics Guru (Trampas)
6. 08:02 AM - Re: Stop the Noise (Mike Robertson)
7. 08:04 AM - powering the anr headset from ships power (Jeff Dowling)
8. 08:48 AM - Re: Electronics Guru (plaurence@the-beach.net)
9. 09:11 AM - Re: Stop the Noise (tacaruth@ralcorp.com)
10. 10:34 AM - Re: Stop the Noise (Scott Vanartsdalen)
11. 10:45 AM - Re: Stop the Noise (Ken Beene)
12. 10:58 AM - Re: Electronics Guru (Trampas)
13. 01:13 PM - Re: Electronics Guru (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
14. 01:23 PM - Re: Stop the Noise (Dave Bristol)
15. 01:36 PM - PM3000 Intercom For sale (Bill VonDane)
16. 01:54 PM - Re: Stop the Noise (LarryRobertHelming)
17. 01:57 PM - injection (Wheeler North)
18. 02:16 PM - Fuel boiling in the injector lines.......again (Scott Bilinski)
19. 02:33 PM - Re: Electronics Guru (Vince Himsl)
20. 03:10 PM - Re: powering the anr headset from ships power (Harvey Sigmon)
21. 03:11 PM - Re: Stop the Noise (czechsix@juno.com)
22. 03:11 PM - Re: Stop the Noise (czechsix@juno.com)
23. 03:22 PM - KX125 For Sale and other King odds and ends (MSices)
24. 03:35 PM - Re: Fuel boiling in the injector lines.......again (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
25. 03:35 PM - Re: Stop the Noise (Jim Daniels)
26. 03:42 PM - Re: Electronics Guru (Trampas)
27. 04:17 PM - Re: powering the anr headset from ships power (Evan and Megan Johnson)
28. 04:25 PM - Re: powering the anr headset from ships power (Ralph E. Capen)
29. 04:29 PM - Aerospace Logic Fuel level gage (Ken Simmons)
30. 05:22 PM - Wanted RV-4 dynafocal mount (Michael McGee)
31. 05:44 PM - RV-6 (PASSPAT@aol.com)
32. 07:57 PM - Re: Aerospace Logic Fuel level gage (Jeff Point)
33. 09:19 PM - Tube bending 101 or Not! (Karie Daniel)
34. 10:04 PM - Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! (Dan Checkoway)
35. 10:39 PM - Xcom @ SNF (Don Mack)
36. 11:23 PM - Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! (Karie Daniel)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Garmin Etrex Legend in the cockpit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
I used one for about two years and loved it. The only thing I did not like
was not having the aviation database in it and having to manually enter the
positions of all the airports in my area, but for the price difference
between it and any aviation unit I can't complain.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie & Tupper
England
Subject: RV-List: Garmin Etrex Legend in the cockpit?
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England
<cengland@netdoor.com>
I'm considering the Etrex Legend as a GPS driver for my IPAQ & as a
backup GPS with it's non-aviation mapping ability.
Is anyone out there currently using one? What are your experiences?
Thanks,
Charlie
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 4/22/04 8:13:00 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
jwdanie@comcast.net writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
>
> How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
>
> Jim Daniels
>
>
>
Looks great! Will the 4 into 1 fit a -7A? That should give a horsepower
gain. How much on an IO-360 200 hp? How do I get pricing?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: trim: springs vrs tabs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Van's RV-9 demonstator had one when I flew with Mike Seager- worked just fine
and I'll be installing one in my -6A (when I get a chance!)
Mark Phillips - 55 hours & still wrestling with wheelpants!
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Electronics Guru |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Vince,
I certainly agree with everything you said. Power supplies are where most of
the heat and less reliable components are. They are usually simple in theory
and are taken perhaps a little too lightly.
I posted the question to be sure I gave the right reply to Bill's original
post offline. He wanted to power 12 volt landing lights from 24 volts. Not a
particularly easy load to drive.
Several others also gave good advice. Thanks to all who replied.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (finishing up)
In a message dated 4/22/04 8:28:28 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
vhimsl@turbonet.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
>
> If you have several unique items that require 12 VDC at ~1 AMP or less then
> make the circuit below for each item. Avoids
> single point of failure. Make extras for replacement. Else...
>
> My requirements have always been met with LM317 circuit or similar variants.
> I don't off the top of my head have a 'slick
> chip' for higher currents. Others on list will probably have some
> suggestions though my vote still is with buying a
> voltage/power converter off the shelf at 'Digi-Key' or 'Newark' etc.
> especially if it will power a radio, transponder, etc.
>
>
> A note of caution: when I troubleshoot electronic instrumentation
> (university research), I first check the power supply as
> experience has shown me that is where most equipment failures originate. So
> unless your circuit is right on in its design
> and construction, don't use it on something necessary for the pucker factor
> free continuation of your flight.
>
> Regards,
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Electronics Guru |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
When dealing with resistive loads like landing lights an easy solution is to
hook up two lights in series. The only problem here is that if one light
burns out it also causes second light not to work.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronics Guru
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Vince,
I certainly agree with everything you said. Power supplies are where most
of
the heat and less reliable components are. They are usually simple in
theory
and are taken perhaps a little too lightly.
I posted the question to be sure I gave the right reply to Bill's original
post offline. He wanted to power 12 volt landing lights from 24 volts. Not
a
particularly easy load to drive.
Several others also gave good advice. Thanks to all who replied.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (finishing up)
In a message dated 4/22/04 8:28:28 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
vhimsl@turbonet.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
>
> If you have several unique items that require 12 VDC at ~1 AMP or less
then
> make the circuit below for each item. Avoids
> single point of failure. Make extras for replacement. Else...
>
> My requirements have always been met with LM317 circuit or similar
variants.
> I don't off the top of my head have a 'slick
> chip' for higher currents. Others on list will probably have some
> suggestions though my vote still is with buying a
> voltage/power converter off the shelf at 'Digi-Key' or 'Newark' etc.
> especially if it will power a radio, transponder, etc.
>
>
> A note of caution: when I troubleshoot electronic instrumentation
> (university research), I first check the power supply as
> experience has shown me that is where most equipment failures originate.
So
> unless your circuit is right on in its design
> and construction, don't use it on something necessary for the pucker
factor
> free continuation of your flight.
>
> Regards,
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
This is interesting but this web page doesn't have any contact information
or links to a home page. Any more information available.
Mike R.
>From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
>Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 19:12:09 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
>
>How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
>
>Jim Daniels
>
>
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | powering the anr headset from ships power |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Has anyone come up with a safe way to connect the Headsets anr kit to ships power?
It runs on a transistor batt and says not to connect to the plane due to
grounding. It would be nice to power it directly.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
68 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Message 8
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| Subject: | Electronics Guru |
--> RV-List message posted by: plaurence@the-beach.net
One can use a pass transistor to increase the current.
You can find many simple circuits in Google
Peter
>
> If you have several unique items that require 12 VDC at ~1 AMP or less
> then make the circuit below for each item. Avoids single point of
> failure. Make extras for replacement. Else...
>
> My requirements have always been met with LM317 circuit or similar
> variants. I don't off the top of my head have a 'slick chip' for
> higher currents. Others on list will probably have some suggestions
> though my vote still is with buying a voltage/power converter off the
> shelf at 'Digi-Key' or 'Newark' etc. especially if it will power a
> radio, transponder, etc.
>
>
> A note of caution: when I troubleshoot electronic instrumentation
> (university research), I first check the power supply as experience
> has shown me that is where most equipment failures originate. So
> unless your circuit is right on in its design and construction, don't
> use it on something necessary for the pucker factor free continuation
> of your flight.
>
> Regards,
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Hopperdhh@aol.com To: rv-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List:
> Electronics Guru
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> Vince,
>
> What if you wanted, say, 6 amps?
>
> Dan RV-7A (almost done)
>
>
> In a message dated 4/22/04 6:55:02 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> vhimsl@turbonet.com writes:
>
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
> >
> > We electronic types call what you want generically a voltage
> > converter though technically I suppose it is a series voltage
> > regulator circuit. Anyway...
> >
> > The simplest and easiest way I know is to use a Series adjustable
> > Voltage Regulator Chip from National Instruments called an LM317.
> > With a given input voltage and the selection of a couple of
> > resistors and capacitors(for filtering) you can create a simple
> > device that will maintain a constant 12 VDC and ~ 1.5 Amps when the
> > input fluctuates between 13(1VDC above output) and 36 VDC (upper
> > limit I believe). Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 - SB Finish
> >
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
> ====
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
04/23/2004 11:10:38 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: tacaruth@ralcorp.com
Try
http://www.aircraftexhaust.net
Good Luck, Tom
"Mike Robertson"
<mrobert569@hotma
il.com> To
Sent by: rv-list@matronics.com
owner-rv-list-ser cc
ver@matronics.com
Subject
Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
04/23/2004 10:01
AM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
This is interesting but this web page doesn't have any contact information
or links to a home page. Any more information available.
Mike R.
>From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
>Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 19:12:09 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
>
>How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
>
>Jim Daniels
>
>
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Just take the tail end stuff off of the URL:
http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/
This page has contact info including the following:
Aircraft Exhaust Technologies, Inc.
FAA Repair Station # AHUR248X
1-800-770-7287
218-278-4858
Fax: 218-278-4859
Mike Robertson <mrobert569@hotmail.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson"
This is interesting but this web page doesn't have any contact information
or links to a home page. Any more information available.
Mike R.
>From: Jim Daniels
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
>Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 19:12:09 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Daniels
>
>How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
>
>Jim Daniels
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
Mike,
The home page is:
http://www.aircraftexhaust.net
When a URL doesn't link back to the home page one can usually go to the
address line and remove the URL extension.
Ken
-> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
This is interesting but this web page doesn't have any contact information
or links to a home page. Any more information available.
Mike R.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Electronics Guru |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
Just use a simple switcher. After all with out a switcher at 3Amps the
24-12V converter using a LM317 or other linear regulating schemes would
require the regulator to dissipate 36 Watts, which is a reasonable amount of
power.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
plaurence@the-beach.net
Subject: RE: RV-List: Electronics Guru
--> RV-List message posted by: plaurence@the-beach.net
One can use a pass transistor to increase the current.
You can find many simple circuits in Google
Peter
>
> If you have several unique items that require 12 VDC at ~1 AMP or less
> then make the circuit below for each item. Avoids single point of
> failure. Make extras for replacement. Else...
>
> My requirements have always been met with LM317 circuit or similar
> variants. I don't off the top of my head have a 'slick chip' for
> higher currents. Others on list will probably have some suggestions
> though my vote still is with buying a voltage/power converter off the
> shelf at 'Digi-Key' or 'Newark' etc. especially if it will power a
> radio, transponder, etc.
>
>
> A note of caution: when I troubleshoot electronic instrumentation
> (university research), I first check the power supply as experience
> has shown me that is where most equipment failures originate. So
> unless your circuit is right on in its design and construction, don't
> use it on something necessary for the pucker factor free continuation
> of your flight.
>
> Regards,
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Hopperdhh@aol.com To: rv-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List:
> Electronics Guru
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> Vince,
>
> What if you wanted, say, 6 amps?
>
> Dan RV-7A (almost done)
>
>
> In a message dated 4/22/04 6:55:02 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> vhimsl@turbonet.com writes:
>
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
> >
> > We electronic types call what you want generically a voltage
> > converter though technically I suppose it is a series voltage
> > regulator circuit. Anyway...
> >
> > The simplest and easiest way I know is to use a Series adjustable
> > Voltage Regulator Chip from National Instruments called an LM317.
> > With a given input voltage and the selection of a couple of
> > resistors and capacitors(for filtering) you can create a simple
> > device that will maintain a constant 12 VDC and ~ 1.5 Amps when the
> > input fluctuates between 13(1VDC above output) and 36 VDC (upper
> > limit I believe). Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 - SB Finish
> >
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
> ====
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Electronics Guru |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 4/23/04 12:59:11 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
tstern@nc.rr.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
> Just use a simple switcher. After all with out a switcher at 3Amps the
> 24-12V converter using a LM317 or other linear regulating schemes would
> require the regulator to dissipate 36 Watts, which is a reasonable amount of
> power.
>
> Regards,
> Trampas Stern
> www.sterntech.com
>
>
I'm not sure I follow, Trampas. 36 watts (actually the power of the 12 volt
light -- 55 watts since we are dropping the voltage in half) seems like a lot
of power to me. A simple switcher would dissipate much less. What are you
saying?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost done)
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
I guess you have to call them and beg for the price??
Dave
do not archive
Ken Beene wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
>
>Mike,
>
>The home page is:
>
>http://www.aircraftexhaust.net
>
>When a URL doesn't link back to the home page one can usually go to the
>address line and remove the URL extension.
>
>Ken
>
>-> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
>This is interesting but this web page doesn't have any contact information
>or links to a home page. Any more information available.
>
>Mike R.
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | PM3000 Intercom For sale |
rv-list@matronics.com, vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I still have the PM3000 for sale, and I have put together a complete jack
kit for it...
http://www.vondane.com/forsale/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I don't think I'm ready to scrap my current exhaust for a new one unless I
have to make a change anyway. I think a good noise reducing solution would
fit on the Vetterman exhaust that Vans endorses. I know of a motorbike type
that fits on the end of the exhaust that Vans sells. Has anyone used that
and liked it? (I agree that we need to be sensitive to noise to help not
rile those who would voice opposition to GA because of it.)
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
----- Original Message -----
From: <tacaruth@ralcorp.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
> --> RV-List message posted by: tacaruth@ralcorp.com
>
>
> Try
>
> http://www.aircraftexhaust.net
>
> Good Luck, Tom
>
>
> "Mike Robertson"
> <mrobert569@hotma
> il.com> To
> Sent by: rv-list@matronics.com
> owner-rv-list-ser cc
> ver@matronics.com
> Subject
> Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
> 04/23/2004 10:01
> AM
>
>
> Please respond to
> rv-list@matronics
> .com
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
> This is interesting but this web page doesn't have any contact information
> or links to a home page. Any more information available.
>
> Mike R.
>
>
> >From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
> >Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 19:12:09 -0600
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
> >
> >How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
> >
> >Jim Daniels
> >
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
I've never looked inside the Bendix injection on the Lycs, but the best
hot-start procedure for me on both a 160 & an angle valve 200 (certified
installs) after an idle stop shutdown was to open the throttle fully
with the mixture at idle cutoff & crank a few blades until the engine
fires. To me, this implies that you shouldn't assume that idle cutoff
will stop fuel flow & prevent engine start (even though it won't
continue to run). This takes us back to the 1st paragraph above.
Charlie
As I said, the fuel flow is shut off at the manifold valve. This leaves fuel
in the SS lines out to the injectors, which will eventually percolate out
into the intake and leave the proverbial round chambered...
To which I think we all agree, never play roulette with a propeller,
regardless of the fuel system that drives it.
W
Message 18
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| Subject: | Fuel boiling in the injector lines.......again |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
So I definitely have fuel boiling in the injectors or injector lines just
after landing. I have heat shielded everything, fire sleeve plus a
reflective sleeve! No difference. Then I went from .028 nozzles down to
.022 and that helped a lot by raising the system pressure in the injector
lines. After balancing the nozzles so all cylinders peak at the same time I
now have the problem back. I am worried about his coming summer. One recent
hot day (80) on final I went to throttle up to make it to the threshold and
nothing was there for about 2 seconds. I would have made the runway even if
the engine quit but I dont want to experience that! I think I will now
change my approach so I always have some power on this should be a temp
fix. Does anyone know of anybody, that has fixed this problem RV or not?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Electronics Guru |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
Remembered that there is a specific regulator chip for 12 VDC from National: LM340T-12
In the application note (http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-103.pdf) it talks about a circuit for boosting the current
capability to 5 amps though it uses a 15 volt regulator as an example. Could probably
be modified to use the 12 VDC one.
An overview of linear regulators can be found at: http://www.maxim-ic.com/appnotes.cfm/appnote_number/751 This site also
has some application note discussions about powering LED lights. Many of us are
planning to use them so this might be of
general interest. This site also discusses 'batteries in the real world'. Though
they emphasize laptop batteries, it would
be informative to us builders.
Yes, I am a big fan of the National Instruments Site (http://www.national.com)! Other companies are Texas Instruments
http://www.ti.com) which acquired Burr-Brown, and Analog Devices (http://www.analogdevices.com/).
Only concern about 'switchers' i.e. switching power supplies is electronic noise
which may or may not wreak havoc on
radios. (not my specialty)
My last post on this subject as I spell guru with a very very small 'g'! {;)
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: powering the anr headset from ships power |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
Jeff: I have a kit headset ANR in my David Clark headset. I have an
English Friend that made me an adapter to connect the power supply to the
airplane through a converter module to drop the voltage to 9 Volts. Works
very well, if you would like I will try to get a diagram how to fabricate
one. He has converted about 85 headsets in the UK. I like mine as it plugs
into a jack in the panel and that way I can get away from that battery box.
Hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: powering the anr headset from ships power
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> Has anyone come up with a safe way to connect the Headsets anr kit to
ships power? It runs on a transistor batt and says not to connect to the
plane due to grounding. It would be nice to power it directly.
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 68 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Jim,
Thanks for the heads up on these guys. I gave them a call and was told that their
crossover exhaust with mufflers which fits all the RV-6 thru 9 series, including
-A models, is $989 and includes dual heat muffs (around the mufflers),
exhaust hangers and gaskets. They claim a minimum of 6 db noise reduction and
much better cabin heat. On the downside it adds 3.5 lbs vs. the standard crossover
system without mufflers and you lose 2 hp at full throttle as tested on
a dyno. All in all, doesn't sound too bad. I've already got Vetterman's exhaust
system but am thinking about changing it for this one....I'll have to mull
it over for a bit. Extra heat would be nice here in Iowa, but in the -8A the
biggest problem is how to get the heat to the back seat...my biggest reason
would be for the noise reduction.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fwf...
From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
Jim Daniels
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Jim,
Thanks for the heads up on these guys. I gave them a call and was told that their
crossover exhaust with mufflers which fits all the RV-6 thru 9 series, including
-A models, is $989 and includes dual heat muffs (around the mufflers),
exhaust hangers and gaskets. They claim a minimum of 6 db noise reduction and
much better cabin heat. On the downside it adds 3.5 lbs vs. the standard crossover
system without mufflers and you lose 2 hp at full throttle as tested on
a dyno. All in all, doesn't sound too bad. I've already got Vetterman's exhaust
system but am thinking about changing it for this one....I'll have to mull
it over for a bit. Extra heat would be nice here in Iowa, but in the -8A the
biggest problem is how to get the heat to the back seat...my biggest reason
would be for the noise reduction.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fwf...
From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stop the Noise
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
How about these? http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/rv_exhaust.html
Jim Daniels
Message 23
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| Subject: | KX125 For Sale and other King odds and ends |
--> RV-List message posted by: "MSices" <msices@core.com>
For Sale: Almost new KX125 14v Nav/Com with internal CDI. This unit has
been slid in and out of few times, but other than that it is new, and
guaranteed to work. Does not come with tray or connector, but I can get
those if you need em'. Also have a new KY97A 14v Comm and a KI-204 CDI in
new condition as well. KX125 - $1450, KY97A - $700, KI204 - $800. Thanks,
Mike Sices
RV8 N339JA
Kenosha, WI
---
Message 24
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| Subject: | Fuel boiling in the injector lines.......again |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Sounds like everyday flying in my FI system.
She will cough and burp some. 1200 hours of that and mine has not quit.
It is normal operations for me.
o-360, AFP.
Mike
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski
Subject: RV-List: Fuel boiling in the injector lines.......again
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
So I definitely have fuel boiling in the injectors or injector lines
just
after landing. I have heat shielded everything, fire sleeve plus a
reflective sleeve! No difference. Then I went from .028 nozzles down to
.022 and that helped a lot by raising the system pressure in the
injector
lines. After balancing the nozzles so all cylinders peak at the same
time I
now have the problem back. I am worried about his coming summer. One
recent
hot day (80) on final I went to throttle up to make it to the threshold
and
nothing was there for about 2 seconds. I would have made the runway even
if
the engine quit but I dont want to experience that! I think I will now
change my approach so I always have some power on this should be a temp
fix. Does anyone know of anybody, that has fixed this problem RV or not?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
==
==
==
==
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
> Jim,
>
> Thanks for the heads up on these guys. I gave them a call and was
> told that their crossover exhaust with mufflers which fits all the
> RV-6 thru 9 series, including -A models, is $989 and includes dual
> heat muffs (around the mufflers), exhaust hangers and gaskets.
Mark,
That's not as bad as I would have thought. I, too, already have the
Vetterman ready to go. This is just one of those sites I bookmarked
while browsing just in case and I tossed it out when the subject came
up. It gets pretty darn cold here in Albuquerque as well so it's worth
considering.
Jim
Fiberglass :(
http://home.comcast.net/~jwdanie/
Message 26
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| Subject: | Electronics Guru |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
Linear power supplies are devices which operate by limiting the voltage to a
circuit. For example let's imagine that you need 12V at 3Amps then you have
36 Watts power being drawn by the device. Now let's say you want a 24V to
12V regulator. If you use a linear regulator like the LM317 then you will be
drawing 3Amps from the 24V source, or 72Watts, but your only using 36Watts
for your device. So where did the other 36Watts go? Well the answer is of
course is that the regulator dissipated this power as heat.
The basic rule is that for a linear regulator like the 780x series or the
LM317 the amount of current out of the device is the same as the amount of
current into the device.
A switching regulator is a different animal completely. To understand a
switching regulator, imagine that you had a light bulb connected to the 24V
power supply. Well if you could switch the light bulb on and off really fast
such that you had the light on only 50% of the time then you would roughly
get the same output light as having it connected to a 12V power supply. The
problem of course is that you are switching really fast so you need to
filter the power with large capacitors and inductors to get a nice stable
power supply and reduce noise.
Now switching power supplies are usually around 80%-90% efficient, that is
for our 12V 3A power supply, we were using 36 Watts so if the regulator is
80% efficient it would draw 45 Watts from the 24V source or roughly 2Amps.
Thus the regulator would only need to dissipate 9 Watts of heat, compared
with 36 Watts for the linear regulator.
For a relative measure of Watts and heat, most household light bulbs are 60
Watts. The engine monitor I made draws about 12 Watts of power. An SD-8
alternator will produce about 96 Watts of power.
Thus a switcher regulator is a simple device and easy to build. If there is
an interest I can make a regulator and provide it as a kit to the group. The
kit would be about $30-$50.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
www.sterntech.com
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: powering the anr headset from ships power |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
I would love to have that diagram too!. I love my DC headsets except for
that stupid battery thingy. Please put me on the interested list.
Thanks...Evan
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: powering the anr headset from ships power
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
>
> Jeff: I have a kit headset ANR in my David Clark headset. I have an
> English Friend that made me an adapter to connect the power supply to the
> airplane through a converter module to drop the voltage to 9 Volts. Works
> very well, if you would like I will try to get a diagram how to fabricate
> one. He has converted about 85 headsets in the UK. I like mine as it
plugs
> into a jack in the panel and that way I can get away from that battery
box.
> Hope this helps.
> Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: powering the anr headset from ships power
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
<shempdowling@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Has anyone come up with a safe way to connect the Headsets anr kit to
> ships power? It runs on a transistor batt and says not to connect to the
> plane due to grounding. It would be nice to power it directly.
> >
> > Jeff Dowling
> > RV-6A, N915JD
> > 68 hours
> > Chicago/Louisville
> >
> >
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: powering the anr headset from ships power |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
I'm planning on ANR's too.....
Soooooo - me too!
Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: powering the anr headset from ships power
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> I would love to have that diagram too!. I love my DC headsets except for
> that stupid battery thingy. Please put me on the interested list.
> Thanks...Evan
>
> www.evansaviationproducts.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: powering the anr headset from ships power
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
> >
> > Jeff: I have a kit headset ANR in my David Clark headset. I have an
> > English Friend that made me an adapter to connect the power supply to
the
> > airplane through a converter module to drop the voltage to 9 Volts.
Works
> > very well, if you would like I will try to get a diagram how to
fabricate
> > one. He has converted about 85 headsets in the UK. I like mine as it
> plugs
> > into a jack in the panel and that way I can get away from that battery
> box.
> > Hope this helps.
> > Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: powering the anr headset from ships power
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
> <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
> > >
> > > Has anyone come up with a safe way to connect the Headsets anr kit to
> > ships power? It runs on a transistor batt and says not to connect to
the
> > plane due to grounding. It would be nice to power it directly.
> > >
> > > Jeff Dowling
> > > RV-6A, N915JD
> > > 68 hours
> > > Chicago/Louisville
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Aerospace Logic Fuel level gage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
Is anybody using one of these? How do you like it? I'm wondering about the bargraph
displays. It seems like it would be a little distracting to have all three
colors lit when the tank is full. I believe that's how it works from the picture.
I guess they had a big discount on their stuff to RV builders for a while, but
I guess I missed out on that. They don't even offer the cheaper "non-certified"
versions anymore.
Thanks.
Ken
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 30
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|
ACRE <rotaryeng@earthlink.net>,
"Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
| Subject: | Wanted RV-4 dynafocal mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
Looking for an old mount for a bargain price. Any of you guys that
converted to long legs have a short leg mount you want to part with for a
salvage price? I'm working on an engine stand project and need a dynafocal
1 mount preferably for an RV-4.
Located in Portland, OR, so closer is better but I'll consider anything
within reasonable shipping distance.
No need to reply to the whole list, email me back directly.
Do not archive
Thanks,
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: PASSPAT@aol.com
Anybody out there have an cowling for an RV-6 that they want to sell
Please contact me off the list
passpat@aol.com
do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Aerospace Logic Fuel level gage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I have one, and I like it. It is the older, non-certified version, but
I don't know if it is really any different. Having all the colored LEDs
lit is not a distraction, providing the dimmer is turned down enough,
and the unit is not mounted front and center. Customer service from
them is excellent. I like the fact that it is calibrated in one gallon
increments, and has proved to be quite accurate.
Jeff Point
RV-6 N187CF 25 hrs
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Tube bending 101 or Not! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
I'm starting the tedious job of plumbing fuel and break lines on my 7A. I just
cracked open my handy dandy tubing bender, the standard hand held lever type made
by Rigid. This thing is starting to get under my skin. After about 4 feet
of tube I can't make one bend without scaring the tube. I have tried to be a gentle
as I can, I even put a little oil on the bender and it still gouges the
tube.
What the heck is everyone using to bend soft aluminum for fuel and break lines.
This tool is a pile of !$#@ or I'm just really bad at this (not unlikely) but
I'll take any advice I can get on a tool that will do the job or a technique
to use with this tool.
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
RV-7A QB
Sammamish, WA
BTW..... Looks like I'll be staying in Washington, Austin just isn't ready for
me. :-)
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Karie,
For what it's worth, the tubing bender I have (not sure if it's the same
one) liked to put little gouges in the sides of the tubing as it did its
thing. In my case, it was that the black paint on the tool had chipped off,
and the chipped area was scratching (deeply) the soft tubing. I ended up
taking emery cloth and scotch brite to the grooves in the tool to make them
a little gentler on the tubing. It still leaves a bit of a mark, but it's
not bad.
Anyway, you may find you have to massage your tool a little bit (sorry,
couldn't help the pun) to get the results you want.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
> I'm starting the tedious job of plumbing fuel and break lines on my 7A. I
just cracked open my handy dandy tubing bender, the standard hand held lever
type made by Rigid. This thing is starting to get under my skin. After about
4 feet of tube I can't make one bend without scaring the tube. I have tried
to be a gentle as I can, I even put a little oil on the bender and it still
gouges the tube.
>
> What the heck is everyone using to bend soft aluminum for fuel and break
lines. This tool is a pile of !$#@ or I'm just really bad at this (not
unlikely) but I'll take any advice I can get on a tool that will do the job
or a technique to use with this tool.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Karie Daniel
> RV-7A QB
> Sammamish, WA
>
>
> BTW..... Looks like I'll be staying in Washington, Austin just isn't ready
for me. :-)
>
>
Message 35
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
I am working on my panel. I am looking at the Xcom 760 radio from Oz. Did
anyone happen to talk to them at SNF? They supposedly had a booth. I am
wondering if they are actually shipping yet in the states and what they are
saying about availability.
Don Mack www.dmack.net don@dmack.net
do not archive
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
What you describe is exactly what I'm experiencing. I thought about just
taking the paint off of the tool also but I wanted to ask before investing
another inch of tube on this tool. Sounds like this is common, I'm just not
very happy with how this is turning out. My electronic fuel pump came from
Vans with a few lines already done and they looked very clean.
Thanks, I'll keep at it. (after I order another five feet of tube).
Karie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Karie,
>
> For what it's worth, the tubing bender I have (not sure if it's the same
> one) liked to put little gouges in the sides of the tubing as it did its
> thing. In my case, it was that the black paint on the tool had chipped
off,
> and the chipped area was scratching (deeply) the soft tubing. I ended up
> taking emery cloth and scotch brite to the grooves in the tool to make
them
> a little gentler on the tubing. It still leaves a bit of a mark, but it's
> not bad.
>
> Anyway, you may find you have to massage your tool a little bit (sorry,
> couldn't help the pun) to get the results you want.
>
> Best of luck,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
> >
> > I'm starting the tedious job of plumbing fuel and break lines on my 7A.
I
> just cracked open my handy dandy tubing bender, the standard hand held
lever
> type made by Rigid. This thing is starting to get under my skin. After
about
> 4 feet of tube I can't make one bend without scaring the tube. I have
tried
> to be a gentle as I can, I even put a little oil on the bender and it
still
> gouges the tube.
> >
> > What the heck is everyone using to bend soft aluminum for fuel and break
> lines. This tool is a pile of !$#@ or I'm just really bad at this (not
> unlikely) but I'll take any advice I can get on a tool that will do the
job
> or a technique to use with this tool.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > RV-7A QB
> > Sammamish, WA
> >
> >
> > BTW..... Looks like I'll be staying in Washington, Austin just isn't
ready
> for me. :-)
> >
> >
>
>
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