Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:32 AM - Re: Xcom @ SNF (GMC)
2. 04:15 AM - dynon losing backup memory (Dave Ford)
3. 04:41 AM - Re: Xcom @ SNF (RV8ter@aol.com)
4. 05:18 AM - Re: dynon losing backup memory (N223RV@aol.com)
5. 05:26 AM - Re: powering the anr headset from ships power (Jack Lockamy)
6. 05:41 AM - Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
7. 05:49 AM - Re: Stop the Noise (Larry Bowen)
8. 06:23 AM - Re: Stop the Noise (Alex Peterson)
9. 06:41 AM - Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! (Ross Schlotthauer)
10. 06:56 AM - Re: Aerospace Logic Fuel level gage (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
11. 07:22 AM - Loaded IFR RV-6A for sale (eregensburg@triad.rr.com)
12. 08:01 AM - Re: powering the anr headset from ships power (Tim Olson)
13. 08:06 AM - Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! (RV8ter@aol.com)
14. 08:08 AM - Re: Xcom @ SNF (Ollie Washburn)
15. 09:21 AM - IO360-A3B6D oil cooler ports (Greg Puckett)
16. 10:06 AM - Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! (Karie Daniel)
17. 10:59 AM - Re: Xcom @ SNF (John Myers)
18. 12:40 PM - 28 volt radios (Ron Rosenberg)
19. 03:24 PM - Re: Xcom @ SNF (Sam Buchanan)
20. 03:36 PM - SW Regional Fly-in (JOHN STARN)
21. 03:45 PM - RVs to Alaska (Dane Sheahen)
22. 05:58 PM - Conical Engine Brushings (Ken Beene)
23. 07:16 PM - Panel drawing (Emrath)
24. 07:20 PM - Re: Conical Engine Brushings (Charlie & Tupper England)
25. 08:05 PM - Re: Conical Engine Brushings (James E. Clark)
26. 08:15 PM - Re: Conical Engine Brushings (Stein Bruch)
27. 11:50 PM - MT Propeller sale (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@uniserve.com>
Hi Don
Aircraft Spruce have 20 on order that were to be shipped about April 15th.
I called Spruce this afternoon (Friday) and nothing had shown up as yet and
no further information from X-com.
George in Langley
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
I am working on my panel. I am looking at the Xcom 760 radio from Oz. Did
anyone happen to talk to them at SNF? They supposedly had a booth. I am
wondering if they are actually shipping yet in the states and what they are
saying about availability.
Don Mack www.dmack.net don@dmack.net
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | dynon losing backup memory |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
Not a big deal but has anyone been losing their clock memory on the Dynon since
the last software upgrade? It use to work fine and still have the A/C battery
hooked to backup line.
Dave Ford
RV6 N516D flying!
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
I went 3 days and looked for them and Trio as well and didn't see either.
I'd have bought from them if they had been there with a product as good as their
web site claims it to be. Frustrating.
lucky
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: dynon losing backup memory |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
Everytime you access the Dynon with an external computer, you lose the clock
memory. It has always been this way. Once you reset the clock, it should not
reset until the next time you connect to it a computer....
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: powering the anr headset from ships power |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Headsets, Inc., manufacturer of the popular ANR Retrofit Kits for David Clark headsets and others, sells a ready to install, panel-mounted 12 or 24 volt power adapter for the 9v ANR system (see http://www.headsetsinc.com/options_and_access.htm ). $49.00 each or $39 each when you purchase two.
I have two wired into my panel. Works great running the ANR off ship's power.
No battery boxes for me!
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Karie, I liked to use the spring tube benders purchased from Avery Tools.
They always made any multi-angle bends a snap and no marks. Flying late
summer.......working cowl and wheel pants RV6-A!
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
> I'm starting the tedious job of plumbing fuel and break lines on my 7A. I
just cracked open my handy dandy tubing bender, the standard hand held lever
type made by Rigid. This thing is starting to get under my skin. After about
4 feet of tube I can't make one bend without scaring the tube. I have tried
to be a gentle as I can, I even put a little oil on the bender and it still
gouges the tube.
>
> What the heck is everyone using to bend soft aluminum for fuel and break
lines. This tool is a pile of !$#@ or I'm just really bad at this (not
unlikely) but I'll take any advice I can get on a tool that will do the job
or a technique to use with this tool.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Karie Daniel
> RV-7A QB
> Sammamish, WA
>
>
> BTW..... Looks like I'll be staying in Washington, Austin just isn't ready
for me. :-)
>
>
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
So you're are saying the Telex was better than the Bose? So much so,
you returned them?!
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
=========================================
The floor and side insulation helps a lot. The best way to quiet down
an RV is to fly real slow. The bulk of the noise at cruise is simply
white noise from air flow around the plane. The prop and exhaust noises
can be reduced if not eliminated via ANR (BTW, I use a Bose X and love
it. I tried a Telex top of the line headset last year, and it's ANR was
so good that I was uncomfortable not hearing any sign of the engine
rpm/power).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 458 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Larry,
Telex was a generous sponsor of our Twin Cities RV Forum last year. I
already had been flying with a set of Bose X headsets for a couple years
in my RV, so the Telex rep and I hopped in my plane for some real time
comparisons. My honest assessment was this: The Telex utterly stopped
all pulsatile engine noise, so much so that it was unnerving, to me at
least. The Bose allow a low level of the engine noise to come through,
such that I have really gotten used to "hearing" the plane as subtle
changes in airspeed/power occur. My perception, and it may not be real,
is that there was more hissing (from airflow around the plane) allowed
through the Telex, but that would require instrumentation to determine.
I felt that the Bose were more comfortable, but that is something that
would take hours of comparison to really establish. I believe that the
Telex model we had was about $100 less than the Bose X, but don't recall
exactly. We talked about bringing some of their instrumentation aboard
to really nail it, but we haven't done so as yet.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 459 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
> -----Original Message-----
> So you're are saying the Telex was better than the Bose? So
> much so, you returned them?!
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> =========================================
>
> The floor and side insulation helps a lot. The best way to
> quiet down an RV is to fly real slow. The bulk of the noise
> at cruise is simply white noise from air flow around the
> plane. The prop and exhaust noises can be reduced if not
> eliminated via ANR (BTW, I use a Bose X and love it. I tried
> a Telex top of the line headset last year, and it's ANR was
> so good that I was uncomfortable not hearing any sign of the
> engine rpm/power).
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 458 hours
>
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Karie,
You may want to get a spring type bender also. Some of the bends for the
fuel lines are pretty tough to get the lever type into and it is much easier
to just slip the spring over the tube and bend away. They keep you from
kinking the wall. I initially tried to use my lever type and ended up
going back and replacing several sections using the sping type.
Good luck,
Ross
Ross Schlotthauer
www.experimentalair.com
RV-7 Finishing
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
>Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 22:02:07 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Karie,
>
>For what it's worth, the tubing bender I have (not sure if it's the same
>one) liked to put little gouges in the sides of the tubing as it did its
>thing. In my case, it was that the black paint on the tool had chipped
>off,
>and the chipped area was scratching (deeply) the soft tubing. I ended up
>taking emery cloth and scotch brite to the grooves in the tool to make them
>a little gentler on the tubing. It still leaves a bit of a mark, but it's
>not bad.
>
>Anyway, you may find you have to massage your tool a little bit (sorry,
>couldn't help the pun) to get the results you want.
>
>Best of luck,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
> >
> > I'm starting the tedious job of plumbing fuel and break lines on my 7A.
>I
>just cracked open my handy dandy tubing bender, the standard hand held
>lever
>type made by Rigid. This thing is starting to get under my skin. After
>about
>4 feet of tube I can't make one bend without scaring the tube. I have tried
>to be a gentle as I can, I even put a little oil on the bender and it still
>gouges the tube.
> >
> > What the heck is everyone using to bend soft aluminum for fuel and break
>lines. This tool is a pile of !$#@ or I'm just really bad at this (not
>unlikely) but I'll take any advice I can get on a tool that will do the job
>or a technique to use with this tool.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > RV-7A QB
> > Sammamish, WA
> >
> >
> > BTW..... Looks like I'll be staying in Washington, Austin just isn't
>ready
>for me. :-)
> >
> >
>
>
http://travel.msn.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Aerospace Logic Fuel level gage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Ken Simmons wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
> Is anybody using one of these? How do you like it? I'm wondering about the bargraph
displays. It seems like it would be a little distracting to have all three
colors lit when the tank is full. I believe that's how it works from the picture.
>
> I guess they had a big discount on their stuff to RV builders for a while, but
I guess I missed out on that. They don't even offer the cheaper "non-certified"
versions anymore.
>
> Thanks.
> Ken
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
.I have one of the newer ones. I will like it. I have went through the calibration
process and I actually think you could calibrate it to 1/2 gallon or maybe
even less, depending on how close you wanted it and how much time you wanted
to spend
at each calibration point. This unit will compensate for tank curvature and remain
very acurate. What it may not do is read the very top part of the fuel quantity
after the float has "topped out".
Jeff Point may be able to comment on this since his is in operation.
I hooked my dimmer lead to the nav lights so that they will auto dim at night when
the nav lights are on. So far it looks good in the garage, day or night.
I first had the early one installed, I think it was one of the first 25. It had
a glitch in it and they exchanged it. It would sense a spike or something in
the bus when certain things were turned on. This would shut it down. The engineer
at
Aerospace said it had a problem in its regulator and he exchanged it.
These are very high quality instuments. I wish I would have made provisions to
install all Aerospace Logic instrumentation.
Phil
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Loaded IFR RV-6A for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: eregensburg@triad.rr.com
I will be selling my RV6A. Price $69,500
1992 RV6A TTSN 2590, SMOH 1151, Lyc O320 fixed Sensinch prop, KA134 audio panel,
Approach certified Garmin 300XL GPS/Com w/ extra card and subscription for updates
thru 1/2005, KX125 Nav/Com, AT 150 Transponder w/ altitude, KR86 ADF, Singtronix
SPA 400 intercom w/ music plug in, Digital tach, CHT, Oil Temp/pressure,
heated pitot and more. BUILT TO FLY IFR !!
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: powering the anr headset from ships power |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Finally something I can post on that I know something about! :)
I ordered ANR upgrade kits for all my family's headsets, from
ANR Headsets. http://www.anr-headsets.com/
I was very very happy with them, and immediately knew I'd be wiring
them into the panel to be able to skip buying batteries.
They have information on their power supplies here:
http://www.anr-headsets.com/Html_folder/Power.html
You can buy these, and in the end, I think that's not a bad way to go
at all, as you'd save a lot of time and hassle, but, I wanted at
the time to save money and wire in a single main power supply
for all 4 headset jacks.
What it requires is a DC/DC converter to isolate the power for the
headsets from the rest of the eletrical system. What I did was
something like this:
- Inline fuse for the whole circuit, to protect the circuit from the
plane and the plane from my circuit.
- One 3 pin regulator (I used an LM2940 regulator for 1A of low-dropout
power) I regulated it to 12V incoming (I can't remember if I even left
this in the circuit in the final install, since the isolator can
handle spikes itself...I think I skipped it)
- One B100RW Series DC/DC converter from MicroPower Direct
This is the magic box that isolates the power systems.
- One more 3 pin regulator (The LM2940 would work, or any other 3 pin
regulator to regulate the output of the converter to 9VDC)
The power plugs used with the ANR kits are Switchcraft 146 L1 locking
plugs, so I then purchased some matching jacks. I can't seem to
find all of my information on these plugs for some reason, but
It's a really simple circuit...basically power and ground goes into
a couple of pins, and a couple of pieces tie together with not much
wiring, and then it comes out as power and ground that's isolated.
I could email some data sheets on these things, but thinking back to
the time when I put this stuff together...when I had plenty of time
on my hands, the research and sourcing of the parts was a pain,
so unless you have good connections from which to order, you're probably
best just buying the completed components from the links above.
Besides, many RV's are 2 seaters, so the cost per seat would maybe even
be higher than buying individual components. I think when I wire up
my -10 I'm going to just buy these jacks and install them, rather than
build it myself.
Hope this helps. You should be able to find the datasheets online
pretty easily, using the part numbers above, but if you get in a real
bind, send me and email and I'll send them to you.
Tim Olson
-=-=-
Tim Olson RV10 #170 - Wisconsin
RV-10 Empennage Kit - N104CD (reserved)
'77 Sundower Flying
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
My experience too. Spring type is fine for us and cheap. Generally I use a
wire hangar hand bent to the approximate shape. Then use the wire to guide
bending the tubing.
I get the nice and tight radius bends by first clamping in a vise a 2 to 2.5
inch or so diameter hollow pipe or baseball bat handle then wrapping the
spring/tube around the clamped object. Try to plan your tubing so that both sides
of tubing that has to go through the gear well don't have bends. Don't be
afraid to drill extra holes in the gear well if you have a high pressure fuel
pump. Also, the right fuel tank tubing doesn't need to be the one long piece
that the plans show. A trick I was taught was to use a union fitting inside the
fuse and make it a two piece of tubing run. Makes it less off a hassle to
final fit the right length of tubing to the wing tank. Save making the piece
that runs from the tank to inside the fuse until later unless you are already at
the stage when your wing is on.
lucky
do not archive
In a message dated 4/24/2004 9:41:53 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rv7maker@hotmail.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Karie,
You may want to get a spring type bender also. Some of the bends for the
fuel lines are pretty tough to get the lever type into and it is much easier
to just slip the spring over the tube and bend away. They keep you from
kinking the wall. I initially tried to use my lever type and ended up
going back and replacing several sections using the sping type.
Good luck,
Ross
Ross Schlotthauer
www.experimentalair.com
RV-7 Finishing
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
>Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 22:02:07 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Karie,
>
>For what it's worth, the tubing bender I have (not sure if it's the same
>one) liked to put little gouges in the sides of the tubing as it did its
>thing. In my case, it was that the black paint on the tool had chipped
>off,
>and the chipped area was scratching (deeply) the soft tubing. I ended up
>taking emery cloth and scotch brite to the grooves in the tool to make them
>a little gentler on the tubing. It still leaves a bit of a mark, but it's
>not bad.
>
>Anyway, you may find you have to massage your tool a little bit (sorry,
>couldn't help the pun) to get the results you want.
>
>Best of luck,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
> >
> > I'm starting the tedious job of plumbing fuel and break lines on my 7A.
>I
>just cracked open my handy dandy tubing bender, the standard hand held
>lever
>type made by Rigid. This thing is starting to get under my skin. After
>about
>4 feet of tube I can't make one bend without scaring the tube. I have tried
>to be a gentle as I can, I even put a little oil on the bender and it still
>gouges the tube.
> >
> > What the heck is everyone using to bend soft aluminum for fuel and break
>lines. This tool is a pile of !$#@ or I'm just really bad at this (not
>unlikely) but I'll take any advice I can get on a tool that will do the job
>or a technique to use with this tool.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > RV-7A QB
> > Sammamish, WA
> >
> >
> > BTW..... Looks like I'll be staying in Washington, Austin just isn't
>ready
>for me. :-)
> >
> >
>
>
http://travel.msn.com
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a@prodigy.net>
Trio was there and their product works great.
Ollie---6A---Fl.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Xcom @ SNF
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> I went 3 days and looked for them and Trio as well and didn't see either.
> I'd have bought from them if they had been there with a product as good as
their
> web site claims it to be. Frustrating.
>
> lucky
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | IO360-A3B6D oil cooler ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Puckett" <rv8er@myawai.com>
Does anyone know which port is the inlet and outlet on the dual mag
D-3000 version of the IO360 accessory case? The Lycoming operators
manual does not have an installation drawing of this. One port just to
the right of the spin on filter housing and one to the left in the
center of the accessory case.
Thanks,
Greg Puckett
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Tube bending 101 or Not! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
I saw these springs at Home Depot last night for about six dollars. It just
looked too good to be true. For six bucks I'll give them a try.
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
RV-7A QB
Sammamish, WA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
> Karie, I liked to use the spring tube benders purchased from Avery Tools.
> They always made any multi-angle bends a snap and no marks. Flying late
> summer.......working cowl and wheel pants RV6-A!
>
> Tom in Ohio
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Tube bending 101 or Not!
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
> >
> > I'm starting the tedious job of plumbing fuel and break lines on my 7A.
I
> just cracked open my handy dandy tubing bender, the standard hand held
lever
> type made by Rigid. This thing is starting to get under my skin. After
about
> 4 feet of tube I can't make one bend without scaring the tube. I have
tried
> to be a gentle as I can, I even put a little oil on the bender and it
still
> gouges the tube.
> >
> > What the heck is everyone using to bend soft aluminum for fuel and break
> lines. This tool is a pile of !$#@ or I'm just really bad at this (not
> unlikely) but I'll take any advice I can get on a tool that will do the
job
> or a technique to use with this tool.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > RV-7A QB
> > Sammamish, WA
> >
> >
> > BTW..... Looks like I'll be staying in Washington, Austin just isn't
ready
> for me. :-)
> >
> >
>
>
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: John Myers <jmyers@powernet.org>
I also looked for Trio all week at SunNFun and also asked many
people. They must have been well hid. I went there intending to discuss
servo location with them and buy but couldn't find them. Where are 8
builders putting the roll servo? Any help.
Thanks Lucky for helpful comments regarding tubing bending and fuel plumbing.
John 8 in AL
At 10:07 AM 4/24/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a@prodigy.net>
>
>Trio was there and their product works great.
> Ollie---6A---Fl.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Xcom @ SNF
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
> >
> > I went 3 days and looked for them and Trio as well and didn't see either.
> > I'd have bought from them if they had been there with a product as good as
>their
> > web site claims it to be. Frustrating.
> >
> > lucky
> >
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Rosenberg" <ronr@medicalpmrg.com>
Listers:
I've got a King KX155 w/ Glideslope, 28V. I'd love to use it in my RV3, but
I've heard conflicting stories on the workability of Step-Up converters from
14 to 28 volts.
Any thoughts??
Ron Rosenberg, PA, MPH
RV3 N9286T - Petaluma CA (O69)
Practice Management Resource Group, Inc.
www.medicalpmrg.com - (800)230-4923
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
John Myers wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: John Myers <jmyers@powernet.org>
>
> I also looked for Trio all week at SunNFun and also asked many
> people. They must have been well hid. I went there intending to discuss
> servo location with them and buy but couldn't find them. Where are 8
> builders putting the roll servo? Any help.
>
> Thanks Lucky for helpful comments regarding tubing bending and fuel plumbing.
>
> John 8 in AL
>
> At 10:07 AM 4/24/2004, you wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a@prodigy.net>
>>
>>Trio was there and their product works great.
>> Ollie---6A---Fl.
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Xcom @ SNF
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>>>
>>>I went 3 days and looked for them and Trio as well and didn't see either.
>>>I'd have bought from them if they had been there with a product as good as
>>
>>their
>>
>>>web site claims it to be. Frustrating.
>>>
>>>lucky
Guys, guys.......don't hyperventilate! Trio was at S-N-F but they have
been unable to purchase indoor booth space so they were sharing an
outdoor booth with another vendor. Maybe they will move up the que far
enough to have their own booth next year.
You can rest assured their product is every bit as good as they claim.
Give them a call or email and you will receive a prompt and thorough reply.
Sam Buchanan
Message 20
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"rv-list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | SW Regional Fly-in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
BlankI'm going to a family wedding in Austin on friday May 14. Will be flying
American Airlines in on the 13th and leaving the 16th. Saturday was going to be
spent listening to wife, daughter and the rest talking. BUT, I have a rental
car and just found out the 46.7 miles south of Austin there is a fly-in at New
Braunfels. I can't bring N561FS but I will there on saturday. If you see an
ole fart with a Rocket hat and Apple Valley Air Corps shirt, introduce your self.
See ya'll. KABONG (GBA) 8*)
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
To all RV Pilots:
Dick Martin and I are planning a trip to Alaska on Aug 2nd. (Day after
Oshkosh). Anyone interested in going please contact me or Dick Martin .
Tentative plans we will start from Chicago for me and Green Bay Wi. for
Dick and meet up on the way to Cutbank Montana the first day. Second day we
clear customs in Canada and head north. We are doing the IFR plan that is
"I Follow Roads" . You can Email me at the address below or call.
My Cell phone is 847-727-0026
dane@mutualace.com
Dane Sheahen
Message 22
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| Subject: | Conical Engine Brushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
I am mounting an O-360-C1G on an RV-4. This is a conical engine. I need
the conical mount bushings. Aircraft Spruce sells a set of eight (non
PMA'd) for $39.50. Van's price is $300. Has anyone used the AS conical
bushings on an RV?
Thanks,
Ken
RV-6A N94KB
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
Listers: Does anyone have a CAD drawing of a basic RV-6 panel. I have
TurboCAD 4 and would like to start planning out panel using this. Please
contact me directly if you can assist. Thanks. Marty in Brentwood, TN
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Conical Engine Brushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Ken Beene wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
>
>I am mounting an O-360-C1G on an RV-4. This is a conical engine. I need
>the conical mount bushings. Aircraft Spruce sells a set of eight (non
>PMA'd) for $39.50. Van's price is $300. Has anyone used the AS conical
>bushings on an RV?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ken
>
>RV-6A N94KB
>
Wag-Aero Group has a replacement set for Lyc p/n 71032 (their catalog #
1-982-000) for $28.50. They fit a lot of the O-320 -A & -B engines, so
they might fit the360 -C's as well. 800-558-6868
Charlie
(no affiliation with the company)
Message 25
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| Subject: | Conical Engine Brushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Check archives for "all shook up" + "vibration".
Your mileage may vary.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Beene
> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2004 8:57 PM
> To: 'Rv-List@Matronics. Com'
> Subject: RV-List: Conical Engine Brushings
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
>
> I am mounting an O-360-C1G on an RV-4. This is a conical engine. I need
> the conical mount bushings. Aircraft Spruce sells a set of eight (non
> PMA'd) for $39.50. Van's price is $300. Has anyone used the AS conical
> bushings on an RV?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ken
>
> RV-6A N94KB
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Conical Engine Brushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Ken,
There is a huge difference between the conical bushins that ACS sells and
the high dollar ones that Van's sells.
I've used both, here's the big difference. The "cheapos" are just plain
rubber biscuits. They work fine, but do wear out at a faster, higher rate
than the more expensive ones, and the engine will sag sooner.
The high dollar ones are Lord mounts which are cast rubber over metal
sleevers and are not perfectly symmetrical. They are almost like miniature
dynafocal mounts in the fact that they must be assembled in a certain way
and the two pieces need to be lined up.
Anyway, the LORD mounts are more money, but personally I like them. They
seem to be very high quality and a lot stiffer than plain rubber. The plain
rubber ones are fine, cheap and the benefit is you can replace them many
times before you reach the price of the Lord mounts. It basically comes
down to personal preference. I'd be fairly comfortable using either type.
Sounds like that -4 is coming along nicely!! How are you going to fly 2
planes at once?!?
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Beene
Subject: RV-List: Conical Engine Brushings
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
I am mounting an O-360-C1G on an RV-4. This is a conical engine. I need
the conical mount bushings. Aircraft Spruce sells a set of eight (non
PMA'd) for $39.50. Van's price is $300. Has anyone used the AS conical
bushings on an RV?
Thanks,
Ken
RV-6A N94KB
Message 27
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| Subject: | MT Propeller sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
First Annual MT Propeller Sale!
Anyone interested in buying a new MT Propeller?
Tell me what you engine and aircraft you want it for, and I'll provide a
quote.
Van's price delivers the MT Propeller to an MT Propeller assembly facility.
Assembly can cost between $300 to $800.
Less Drag Products, Inc. quoted price will typically be below Van's price,
delivered to your door.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
MT Propeller Certified Assembly
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