Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:51 AM - Re: Rudder wiring. (Dana Overall)
2. 07:15 AM - Re: Rudder wiring. (Dan Checkoway)
3. 07:59 AM - Re: Rudder wiring. (Jim Oke)
4. 08:23 AM - Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise (Leland)
5. 09:00 AM - GTX327 (Wheeler North)
6. 09:17 AM - GTX 327 (Wheeler North)
7. 09:36 AM - Garmin GTX 327 Transponder (Michael Robbins)
8. 09:50 AM - Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise (Paul Besing)
9. 10:04 AM - Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise (James E. Clark)
10. 11:00 AM - Re: Rudder wiring. (David Carter)
11. 11:33 AM - Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise (Dj Merrill)
12. 11:38 AM - Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
13. 12:16 PM - Re: Rudder wiring. (Dan Checkoway)
14. 02:50 PM - Re: For User of Garmin GTX 327 Txpr. (Emmanuelle Richard)
15. 04:31 PM - Canopy - tip-up (David Carter)
16. 04:43 PM - Re: Rudder wiring. (RVer273sb@aol.com)
17. 05:22 PM - Re: Canopy - tip-up (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG))
18. 06:28 PM - Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
19. 06:31 PM - Re: Canopy - tip-up (Paul Besing)
20. 06:40 PM - RV list history/Bunny Guide (RV8ter@aol.com)
21. 07:14 PM - autopilots (j pearlman)
22. 07:19 PM - Mazda 13B mufflers (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG))
23. 07:51 PM - Re: autopilots (Alex Peterson)
24. 08:02 PM - Re: Sam James Plenum / RV6 Cowl / Oil Cooler (Dick Jordan)
25. 08:29 PM - Re: RV list history/Bunny Guide (Doug Rozendaal)
26. 08:31 PM - Re: autopilots (Stein Bruch)
27. 09:01 PM - Re: RV list history/Bunny Guide (Mike Nellis)
28. 09:02 PM - Re: Rudder wiring. (Jim Oke)
29. 09:29 PM - Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise (Curt Reimer)
30. 09:42 PM - Re: RV list history (rv6tc)
31. 09:57 PM - Re: RV list history/Bunny Guide (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG))
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
OK, Rick and Dan. My thinking was to seal the exit point in the bottom
fairing to avoid any water getting inside. So, I'm guessing you just made
the exit hole large enough to allow the wire/connectors to pass through??
Next point here, what just drill a couple drain holes in the bottom fairing
and be done with it??
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder wiring.
>Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 19:13:39 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > Dana.......Dana.........Dana,
> > Just leave slack in the wire(s) with a connector inside the fairing. You
>run
> > the wires out the bottom of the VS and UNDER the lower rod end bearing
>and
> > into the opening in the front of the bottom fairing. You need enough
>slack
>to be
> > able to remove the screws in the light holder (shroud....whatever) then
>pull
> > the wire out of the opening to undo the connector. I used a small molex
>so
>it
>
>Fwiw, ditto. That's exactly what I did on my RV-7 with the original (RV-8
>style) rudder. No problems so far, and nothing is "permanently attached."
>The light comes out with the 2 screws, then disconnect the mate-n-lok
>connectors...light assembly is removed. Pull the rudder right off the
>fuselage and the wires/connectors pull out the front of the rudder at the
>lower rod end bearing hole. Need to pull the wires back into the fuselage?
>Just remove the plastic mate-n-lok shells and the wires/pins will slip
>right
>in through the hole in the VS. No brainer! (20:20 hindsight, of course)
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
From must-see cities to the best beaches, plan a getaway with the Spring
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> OK, Rick and Dan. My thinking was to seal the exit point in the bottom
> fairing to avoid any water getting inside. So, I'm guessing you just made
> the exit hole large enough to allow the wire/connectors to pass through??
> Next point here, what just drill a couple drain holes in the bottom
fairing
> and be done with it??
Water *will* get inside. Yep...I drilled two drain holes, one fore and one
aft, in the fairing.
There's no "exit hole" in my fairing for the wires. I run the wires through
the opening where the lower rod end bearing swings.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
I tried to get fancy and provide an exit point with a snap bushing, etc. on
my -6A and quickly found there was an interference problem most any place I
tried to place the exit hole. I ended up filling the holes I had made and
routing the wires just as Dan describes below.
I can also add a vote for drain holes in the rudder bottom fairing based on
experience with my -3. During a walk around one day, wiggling the rudder
resulted in sloshing noises. I drilled a drain hole at the low point and
about half a quart of water streamed out! (Heavy rain in the previous days).
Jim Oke
WPg., MB
RV-6A, RV-3
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder wiring.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > OK, Rick and Dan. My thinking was to seal the exit point in the bottom
> > fairing to avoid any water getting inside. So, I'm guessing you just
made
> > the exit hole large enough to allow the wire/connectors to pass
through??
> > Next point here, what just drill a couple drain holes in the bottom
> fairing
> > and be done with it??
>
> Water *will* get inside. Yep...I drilled two drain holes, one fore and
one
> aft, in the fairing.
>
> There's no "exit hole" in my fairing for the wires. I run the wires
through
> the opening where the lower rod end bearing swings.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
If you are considering the DRE 6000, read the customer reviews at:
http://www.avshop.com/catalog/reviews.html?productid=3815&#comment5
The reviews are definitely mixed.
Leland in Pleasanton
Wiring up EGTs on an RV9A
"For those of you about ready to purchase a headset for your RV, you might
consider the DRE 6000. It's one-third the cost of the Bose X and about a
year and a half ago, Aviation Consumer magazine did a comparison of about
six leading headsets and several of the testers liked the performance of
the
DRE (comparative "bang for the buck") and felt like it was close to the
noise canceling properties to the Bose X. My partner and I each bought one.
I paid $275 plus shipping for mine about a year ago."
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
try
http://www.garmin.com/manuals/GTX327Transponder_InstallationManual.pdf
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
an add on thought,
if you have an older GTX327 this version (version J) of the manual will have
a few errors.
The screen displays will be slightly different and reordered, and several of
the pins are wrong, specifically those that communicate with a GNS430/530.
If I remember correctly pin 20 is not the RS232 #1 output but pin 2 is, so
it is not the RS232 #2 input as described in this version. (its been a while
since I ran into this) You need to call tech support if this version of the
manual has screen variations from what you actually have.
W
Message 7
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| Subject: | Garmin GTX 327 Transponder |
Seal-Send-Time: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 09:34:37 -0700
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Robbins" <robbinsrv8@msn.com>
You can have it set either way, on with master or on manually. In our Piper
Cheyennes we have them come on with the radio master while on my 8 I have it
stay off when I through the Master switch because I don't have a radio
master. It is a wiring or software setup, forget which it was now.
It is a wiring (pin) thing. I don't have a radio master either and I turn mine
on manually by pushing STBY. Also, if you have it talking to your GPS, in my
case a 430, you can set it up so that it will go from STBY to ALT automatically
when you reach 30 kts on takeoff, and from from ALT to STBY when less than
30 kts.
Mike Robbins
RV-8 390 hrs
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
They may be $1000, but Bose headsets will be the last pair you ever own.
Worth every penny.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leland" <Federigo@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
> --> RV-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
>
> If you are considering the DRE 6000, read the customer reviews at:
> http://www.avshop.com/catalog/reviews.html?productid=3815&#comment5
> The reviews are definitely mixed.
> Leland in Pleasanton
> Wiring up EGTs on an RV9A
>
> "For those of you about ready to purchase a headset for your RV, you
might
> consider the DRE 6000. It's one-third the cost of the Bose X and
about a
> year and a half ago, Aviation Consumer magazine did a comparison of
about
> six leading headsets and several of the testers liked the
performance of the
> DRE (comparative "bang for the buck") and felt like it was close to
the
> noise canceling properties to the Bose X. My partner and I each
bought one.
> I paid $275 plus shipping for mine about a year ago."
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Good to point this out but I must say that I have have SEVERAL pair of the
DRE's and there are MANY people at our airport who have them with NO
reported problems of the nature mentioned.
I recall some time back, in some model, the discovered that the mic they
were using was either too sensitive or not sensitive enough. Free
replacements sent. No problem.
The ranges that headsets have to operate in is VERY wide. There is a (TSO??)
spec for these things but that does not make them work in all environments.
I know this because I also have had several Bose (including the newest ones)
and had to talk to them about a couple of things. They too have different
mics and updated electronics to cover what might be problems.
The key here, I think, is that MOST people are getting GREAT value from the
DRE's. I have. And they offer great service (at least I have received such).
James
Owner of DC, DRE and Bose headsets.
No business afilliation with either company
p.s. One of the comments said the headsets were "useless" with the noise
cancellation off. I find them (like many others) to have a degredation in
performance as one would expect. There are others that are better in the
"passive only" mode but they headsets are still useable in this mode. The
only time you are likely to be in that mode is if BOTH of the TWO 9 volt
batteries have run out. You will have seen a red LED for many hours before
this happens and would probably deserve a little more noise. :-)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Leland
> Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 11:20 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
>
> If you are considering the DRE 6000, read the customer reviews at:
> http://www.avshop.com/catalog/reviews.html?productid=3815&#comment5
> The reviews are definitely mixed.
> Leland in Pleasanton
> Wiring up EGTs on an RV9A
>
> "For those of you about ready to purchase a headset for your RV,
> you might
> consider the DRE 6000. It's one-third the cost of the Bose
> X and about a
> year and a half ago, Aviation Consumer magazine did a
> comparison of about
> six leading headsets and several of the testers liked the
> performance of the
> DRE (comparative "bang for the buck") and felt like it was
> close to the
> noise canceling properties to the Bose X. My partner and I
> each bought one.
> I paid $275 plus shipping for mine about a year ago."
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Dana, Dan, & Jim,
I read your e-mails and went back out to look at my rudder sitting in the
shop - I also decided not to cut any holes in front of fiberglass rudder
bottom, planning to simply let wires that come out back of fuselage drop
down over the front top of the fiberglass, with lots of slack inside and the
original Whelen connectors for strobe & pos lites cut off the factory
harness and re-installed so they are in the big service loop inside the
rudder fairing, to allow removal of the light like you all described. I
added in an extra 2 feet or so (don't have notes in front of me) of wire
from the power supply aft into the rudder housing with 3 wire strobe
connector on these extensions.
I'm wondering how to prevent the wires from chaffing/cutting (from rudder
movement) as the wires ride on that fiberglass edge where they drop down
from the rod end bearing down inside the fiberglass fairing. I'll at
least put a bead of RTV silicone sealant over the fiberglass edge. Anythng
more fancy than that available or recommended? Something slicker like a
plastic "edge strip protector" would seem nicer/slicker/more durable.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder wiring.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
<snip
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Paul Besing wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
>
> They may be $1000, but Bose headsets will be the last pair you ever own.
> Worth every penny.
I just bought a set at Sun-n-Fun, and so far I agree.
Even worked wonders on the Southwest flight home... *grin*
-Dj
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
I bought Bose & Lightspeed at the same time. Used both in Rv's and Citation. Sent
the Bose back. Not $600 better than Lightspeed in my opinion.
Doug Preston
RV8
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I'm wondering how to prevent the wires from chaffing/cutting (from rudder
> movement) as the wires ride on that fiberglass edge where they drop down
> from the rod end bearing down inside the fiberglass fairing. I'll at
> least put a bead of RTV silicone sealant over the fiberglass edge.
Anythng
> more fancy than that available or recommended? Something slicker like a
> plastic "edge strip protector" would seem nicer/slicker/more durable.
In my case, the edge doesn't even come close to the wire. Granted, I opened
the "mouth" of the fairing up a bit and lowered the edge, but the wire exit
hole in the VS spar is high up enough, and the front edge of the fiberglass
fairing is forward enough so that the wires droop right down into the
fairing and there's basically no chance of contact.
YMMV
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: For User of Garmin GTX 327 Txpr. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Emmanuelle Richard <frenchflyer21@yahoo.com>
On the GTX, there is a pin for the Avionics Master switch and a pin for the power
(on the connector at the back of the GTX).
I just ran a wire to the power pin through the Avionics switch and have the same
behavior as you describe.
If you want the GTX to turn on when you turn on the Avionics master, I think you
need to have a jumper between the power pin and the Avionics Master pin. In
my plane it's hard to get to that connector, so i haven't added that yet.
---------------------------------
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I was browsing the Bunny's Guide to RV Building, Finish Kit, Canopy. The
links no longer work for Frank Cone's instructions and his e-mail at aol is
no longer recognized by aol. Anyone know where his articles are posted on a
website?
David
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring. |
--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
If you use a connector to facilitate installation
and removal I reccomend sealing it with Dow
Corning DC4 compound. I found severe corrosion
on the connector after 3 years use.
Stewart, RV4 978 hrs
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
That'd be Jim Cone :-)
In Matronics photoshare...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.02.17.2004/
Frank (not Cone :-)
-----Original Message-----
I was browsing the Bunny's Guide to RV Building, Finish Kit, Canopy.
The links no longer work for Frank Cone's instructions and his e-mail at
aol is no longer recognized by aol. Anyone know where his articles are
posted on a website?
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 04/27/2004 12:39:15 PM Central Standard Time,
DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com writes:
I bought Bose & Lightspeed at the same time. Used both in Rv's and Citation.
Sent the Bose back. Not $600 better than Lightspeed in my opinion.
Shickled totally titless with my new Lightspeed XCs- cheap & effective, but
I've never had one of the $Bose$ sets on so no way to compare.... Just mash
the little button and RRRRRRRR!!!!!!! turns into
hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.............
Shameless product review from The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips - RV-6A N51PW
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy - tip-up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Try Will Cresinger's notes. Use them as a guide, but it does work pretty
well.
http://home.flash.net/~gila/wing_docs/canopy_notes2.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy - tip-up
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> I was browsing the Bunny's Guide to RV Building, Finish Kit, Canopy. The
> links no longer work for Frank Cone's instructions and his e-mail at aol
is
> no longer recognized by aol. Anyone know where his articles are posted on
a
> website?
>
> David
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | RV list history/Bunny Guide |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
I was just thinking, we could start a RV list trivia game for folks who've
been on the list for 6 or more years. This thing's had a unique and interesting
life of it's own.
We should start a "RV List Hall of Fame" nomination cycle. Folks like Scott
McDaniels from Van's, Kyle Boatright (SP?), Alexander (RIP), etc. Maybe next
winter's RV List project.
Anyway, who was the original Bunny Guide RV6 writer and whatever became of
him and his project?
Inquiring minds want to know and the new folks are probably wondering what
the heck I'm talking about and is it XXX rated?
definately do not archive,
lucky
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: j pearlman <rvexch@yahoo.com>
I am looking for an autopilot other than an STEC which has ILS approach capability,
altitude hold, nav, etc. Any suggestions based on experience?
jp
---------------------------------
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Mazda 13B mufflers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
Hi,
Just a heads-up for anyone interested... the latest Sport Flying
magazine (published by NZ Sport Aviation Assn, our equivalent of EAA)
has an article on the Aero Sport International
http://www.aero-sport.com/Products/Index.asp Kahu gyroplane, which is
designed round a 13B engine, converted for aeronautical use.
The exhaust system might be of interest to RV-list members with (or
planning) 13B rotary engine installations. The article claimed that
switching to this exhaust had reduced noise from 101dB down to 79-81dB.
In the photo, the exhaust looked to be a cylinder about 8" in diameter
by maybe 12" long, with a helical pipe, about 2" in diameter, going
around and in and out of the cylinder. The text said the exhaust design
was based on some Russian research. If anyone's interested in more
information, I can ask for permission to scan the article and photos.
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> I am looking for an autopilot other than an STEC which has
> ILS approach capability, altitude hold, nav, etc. Any
> suggestions based on experience?
>
> jp
I just looked at their website, and I don't believe TruTrak makes an
autopilot that couples to the GS, but I'd call them to be sure. There
is the old tried and true Century 2000, which can be had in a package
deal with an HSI and AH for something like $9000. It would be tough to
justify putting spinning gyros in a new plane now, but if you want GS
coupling, you might have to. I have the C2000 in my plane, and am
impressed at how it can nail an ILS approach.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 459 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Sam James Plenum / RV6 Cowl / Oil Cooler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick Jordan" <mkejrj@erols.com>
Dave,
I ran into the same problem installing an oil cooler on the rear baffle
on the " James Plenum ". I constructed an oil cooler mount which was angled
back at the top by 15 degrees and also angled out by 20 degrees. The" angle
out " concept was not mentioned in any of the stuff I read but it moved the
actual cooler outboard from the engine mount so that there was clearance.
I will try to send you pictures as requested. My installation is on an
RV8 but I don't think there is any material difference with your A/C.If I
can provide additional details let me know.
Dick Jordan
RV8 Finishing
N888BZ Reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Sam James Plenum / RV6 Cowl / Oil Cooler
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
>
>
> I need some help from any one out there who has installed the Sam James
> plenum on an RV6A. I've installed the plenum (no problems) but can not
> install the oil cooler at the angle described behind #4 cylinder because
of
> the engine mount. The cooler just barely clears the mount without the
> 'angled spacer' assembly.
>
> Additionally does anyone have pictures of how you modified the Van's cowl
to
> accept Sam's rings!!
>
> Any help will be appreciated and pictures would be a big-time help!!
>
> Regards
>
> David Schaefer
> RV6-A Finishing
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RV list history/Bunny Guide |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I'll not be a party to any trivia contest because I can't remember what I
had for breakfast. but I have a nomination to the RV-listers hall of fame,
that is easy, I nominate Austin.
As a purveyor of prose, his wonderful words have graced this venue for many
years, and brought laughs and tears to those who linger here.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
RV-lister since, hmmm, dunno, before my first RV, before spam, probably '96
or so. Slow learner it would seem....
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV list history/Bunny Guide
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> I was just thinking, we could start a RV list trivia game for folks who've
> been on the list for 6 or more years. This thing's had a unique and
interesting
> life of it's own.
>
> We should start a "RV List Hall of Fame" nomination cycle. Folks like
Scott
> McDaniels from Van's, Kyle Boatright (SP?), Alexander (RIP), etc. Maybe
next
> winter's RV List project.
>
> Anyway, who was the original Bunny Guide RV6 writer and whatever became of
> him and his project?
>
> Inquiring minds want to know and the new folks are probably wondering what
> the heck I'm talking about and is it XXX rated?
>
> definately do not archive,
> lucky
>
>
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Tru-Trak does make such a unit for coupled approaches....New price is
somewhere in the are of $6700+ and up, gets more expensive when you put in a
yaw damper, etc.. I believe everything from the "DFC-200" and up has the ILS
coupling capability. Website is: http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com
Also, Blue mountain avionics makes a unit that will fly a coupled approach.
http://bluemountainavionics.com
Century also makes a new digital/solid state auto-pilot for
GPS/VOR/LOC/etc.. http://www.centuryflight.com/
Meggit/Magic makes one, but you'll shell out over $60K for their system!
Same thing for Chelton, except I think they are only around $25-35K for the
setup!
Of course, you can always go the path Alex did, they are tried and true, but
like he said, I don't know why you would mess with anything other than the
digital ones that are out there now! Naturally, you can get the old
Cesspool "Nav-o-Matic" / ARC systems quite cheap!
Hope this is what you were looking for!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
Subject: RE: RV-List: autopilots
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> I am looking for an autopilot other than an STEC which has
> ILS approach capability, altitude hold, nav, etc. Any
> suggestions based on experience?
>
> jp
I just looked at their website, and I don't believe TruTrak makes an
autopilot that couples to the GS, but I'd call them to be sure. There
is the old tried and true Century 2000, which can be had in a package
deal with an HSI and AH for something like $9000. It would be tough to
justify putting spinning gyros in a new plane now, but if you want GS
coupling, you might have to. I have the C2000 in my plane, and am
impressed at how it can nail an ILS approach.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 459 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | RV list history/Bunny Guide |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Nellis" <mike@bmnellis.com>
I've still got Frank Justices manual and refer to it from time to time.
I don't know when the first message was posted on the RV-List but I do
remember all the RV messages that used to take place on the AVSIG forum of
Compuserve. I started monitoring the RV-List around 1995 and posted my
first message in mid '96. I've been working on my -6 since early 1997.
I even remember the first time I was flamed. Somebody referred to ACS and I
asked, "what is ASC?". One list member shot back with, "if you don't know
what ACS is you shouldn't be building an RV". No smiley or anything.... :)
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
*** -----Original Message-----
*** From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
*** [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
*** RV8ter@aol.com
*** Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 8:41 PM
*** To: rv-list@matronics.com
*** Subject: RV-List: RV list history/Bunny Guide
***
***
*** --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
***
*** I was just thinking, we could start a RV list trivia game
*** for folks who've
*** been on the list for 6 or more years. This thing's had a
*** unique and interesting
*** life of it's own.
***
*** We should start a "RV List Hall of Fame" nomination cycle.
*** Folks like Scott
*** McDaniels from Van's, Kyle Boatright (SP?), Alexander
*** (RIP), etc. Maybe next
*** winter's RV List project.
***
*** Anyway, who was the original Bunny Guide RV6 writer and
*** whatever became of
*** him and his project?
***
*** Inquiring minds want to know and the new folks are probably
*** wondering what
*** the heck I'm talking about and is it XXX rated?
***
*** definately do not archive,
*** lucky
***
***
*** ==============
*** Matronics Forums.
*** ==============
*** ==============
*** ==============
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
David;
As per Dan's comments on this subject, I just do not recall wire chafing
being an issue.
On a -6A there is the fairly large tail tiedown weldment to accommodate so
the exit hole from the fuse required some experimenting to get right. I
recall using some heatshrink tubing on the wire run in that area - as much
to tidy up the wiring as protection but it served that purpose as well.
Rounding the fibreglass and/or adding some sort of edging might help and
would not likely do any harm. Note that generally there is not a lot of
clearance in that area for the rudder LE so avoid anything too bulky.
Jim Oke
RV-6A, RV-3
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder wiring.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Dana, Dan, & Jim,
>
> I read your e-mails and went back out to look at my rudder sitting in the
> shop - I also decided not to cut any holes in front of fiberglass rudder
> bottom, planning to simply let wires that come out back of fuselage drop
> down over the front top of the fiberglass, with lots of slack inside and
the
> original Whelen connectors for strobe & pos lites cut off the factory
> harness and re-installed so they are in the big service loop inside the
> rudder fairing, to allow removal of the light like you all described. I
> added in an extra 2 feet or so (don't have notes in front of me) of wire
> from the power supply aft into the rudder housing with 3 wire strobe
> connector on these extensions.
>
> I'm wondering how to prevent the wires from chaffing/cutting (from rudder
> movement) as the wires ride on that fiberglass edge where they drop down
> from the rod end bearing down inside the fiberglass fairing. I'll at
> least put a bead of RTV silicone sealant over the fiberglass edge.
Anythng
> more fancy than that available or recommended? Something slicker like a
> plastic "edge strip protector" would seem nicer/slicker/more durable.
>
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Rudder wiring.
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> <snip
> >
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca>
My two cents:
Last summer at Osh I did the rounds looking for a new ANR headset. I pretty
much tried them all, and went home with a pair of Lightspeed 30-3Gs. They
aren't perfect, but every headset has strong & weak points. My main criteria
was personal comfort. Turns out I must have large ears because every other
headset I tried clamped part of my ear against my head, or pushed againt my
ear in some way. My old DCs do this too. The lightspeed 3G series has a lot
of room within the ear cup so the phones clamp against my head, not my ears.
The ear cups are leather-covered confor or temper foam and temperature-mold
to your head.
Other good & bad points about the 30-3Gs:
1. The ANR noise cancelling works great. One of the best in the business
according to the specs. I honestly don't know if the price difference for
the 30-3Gs over the 20-3Gs is really worth it for the extra 2 or 3 dBs of
noise cancelling. But I figured, what the hell...it was my Oshkosh gift to
myself :-)
2. Passive noise cancelling is not so great. The ANR removes the low end
noise from the prop and engine, but the white noise from airflow around the
canopy is still more than I would like. I think a lot of other headphones
are better in this regard, including my old passive DCs.
3. The mike is pretty good, but not as good a David Clark.
4. I seem to get 20 hours+ out of a set of two AA batteries, which is good
enough. When DC went to the 9v battery pack, I lost a lot of interest in
their ANR products. I prefer battery power for portability to other
aircraft, and AAs are dirt cheap if you buy the big strip packs.
5. While you just can't beat DC for quality and ruggedness, the Lightspeeds
have held up fine so far. Mind you, I try not to step on them when I climb
into the plane, or chuck them around. They don't look particularly robust.
6. The sound quality of the 3Gs is awesome. This was the tipping point for
me. These things sound as good as the studio monitor headphones that I use
for my music recording work.
7. The ability to plug a CD or mp3 player directly into the headphones is a
fabulous feature. My intercom isn't hi-fi and my wife isn't interested in
listening to my music at my volume anyway, so I seldom play music through
the intercom. This direct plug-in feature, along with the bass/treble boost
options and the overall sound quality make these great headphones for
music-loving pilots.
8. The ability to plug a cell phone into the headset is another feature I'd
never want to give up. It's great to be able to tell your wife from 8500
feet a hundred miles away that you'll be late for dinner and not to initiate
any search for you.
Frankly, Lightspeed sets the mark in terms of features and sound quality for
me. As for comfort, that is a personal thing and you have to buy what fits
your head the best. I'd say that the other manufacturers are going to have
to reproduce the features of the 30-3Gs if they ever want to get my business
again.
Curt
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: RV list history |
--> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" <rv6tc@myawai.com>
In my opinion, near the top would have to be Aero Electric Bob. The man
always found time to answer even the stupidest of questions (trust me) and
would go so far as to look over your entire schematic, if you would send it
to him.
Then of course, you must credit the guy that wanted everyone to be his
"daisy". I miss him.
Howard "daisy".
Denver
----- Original Message -----
> ***
> *** We should start a "RV List Hall of Fame" nomination cycle.
> *** Folks like Scott
> *** McDaniels from Van's, Kyle Boatright (SP?), Alexander
> *** (RIP), etc.
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | RV list history/Bunny Guide |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
> Anyway, who was the original Bunny Guide RV6 writer and whatever
became of
> him and his project?
Hey, I resemble that! :-)
Yes, twas moi that appointed himself the constructor of "A Bunny's Guide
to RV Building".
Whatever became of me? Well, I disappeared from the RV-list for a couple
of years whilst I did my MTech thesis, when there weren't enough hours
in the day to read RV-list articles and do work and keep a family
together and do research. The degree is thankfully now complete. So I'm
back.
My project? Well, during those couple of years it languished under the
grandstand at the local racecourse. Actually, its still languishing,
although I did do a few hours on it a couple of monthes ago.
Non-progress is mainly because I've lost the motivation to work on it,
due partly to financial circumstances. Telling myself "Work on it now.
Then, when you can afford an engine you'll be able to finish it really
quickly" just doesn't seem to work. Sadly, my maths are good enough to
figure out the odds of winning the lottery in the next 10 years. But I
still buy lottery tickets now and then.
<cue violins>Donations, especially in the form of zero-time O-320s,
gratefully accepted.<end violins>
To be honest though, partly my lack of aircraft construction motivation
is because I've discovered *robot* construction, which is a great outlet
for my constructive instincts, lots of fun, and not nearly as expensive!
Whilst reflecting on the Bunny's Guide history, I'm quite disappointed
that (to date) only a handful of people ever actually contributed to the
Guide. I'd hoped that I could promote myself to Editor-in-chief, with
hordes of readers contributing to the Guide as they worked with it. I
had this vision of a new kind of dynamic document that would eventually
encompass all there was to know about building an RV-6; an evolving
document that would grow into the ultimate RV-building resource.
It's beginning to look like I must have single-handedly made almost
every mistake possible in building an RV, and found nearly every
shortcut and improvement too. Mind you, a lot of what I put into the
Guide was interesting/useful things that I mined from the RV-list as
time went by, so that things to avoid and good ideas got added to the
Guide *before* I could make the mistake or improvement. For instance,
some time soon I'll add the relevant bits of the "rudder-wiring" and the
"manual elevator trim/Cessna knob" threads to Guide.
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
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