Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:56 AM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List: Capacitive fuel probe errors? (Jim Sears)
2. 03:11 AM - Re: RV list history (Jim Sears)
3. 04:14 AM - Relocation (Francis Malczynski)
4. 05:19 AM - Re: Strapping down batteries (Charles Rowbotham)
5. 05:50 AM - Re: Relocation (James E. Clark)
6. 05:53 AM - 2 magenetometers, Dynon (Matt Jurotich)
7. 06:43 AM - Re: Lightspeed Timing Question (Doug Rozendaal)
8. 07:46 AM - Re: Lightspeed Timing Question (Mike Robertson)
9. 09:26 AM - Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise (SportAV8R@aol.com)
10. 11:11 AM - Lightspeed headset for sale (Paul Danclovic)
11. 11:27 AM - Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise (Eric Parlow)
12. 11:30 AM - Re: Lightspeed headset for sale (Scott Bilinski)
13. 12:42 PM - baffle sealing fabric - measurements. (Amit Dagan)
14. 12:55 PM - Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise (Stein Bruch)
15. 01:13 PM - Paint Help! (Bruce Bell)
16. 01:55 PM - Wire Holders (tacaruth@ralcorp.com)
17. 02:32 PM - Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
18. 03:08 PM - Re: Strapping down batteries (UFOBUCK@aol.com)
19. 03:38 PM - Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise (Greg Young)
20. 04:51 PM - Re: Strapping down batteries (Bill Dube)
21. 05:19 PM - Re: Wire Holders (Rick Galati)
22. 05:21 PM - Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise (Paul Besing)
23. 06:10 PM - Re: Wire Holders (Scott Vanartsdalen)
24. 06:38 PM - Oh oh!!! (Jerry Springer)
25. 06:41 PM - Re: Wire Holders (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
26. 06:41 PM - Re: Care to recommend some workshop furnishings? (Charles Becker)
27. 06:55 PM - Re: Oh oh!!! (Ed Anderson)
28. 06:59 PM - Re: What size hole for step? (Dan Reeves)
29. 07:09 PM - Re: Oh oh!!! (Jerry Springer)
30. 07:39 PM - Re: Oh oh!!! (Ed Anderson)
31. 08:30 PM - Re: Oh oh!!! (Sam Buchanan)
32. 09:00 PM - Re: Oh oh!!! (Jerry Springer)
33. 09:13 PM - Re: baffle sealing fabric - measurements. (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Capacitive fuel probe errors? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
Very good response. Now that Skylor mentioned it, it seems I read that
somewhere on the list, or a publication, that this is true. I got my input
from the auto gas STC I purchased years ago. Thanks, Skylor!
Jim Sears in KY
EAA Tech Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: "Skylor Piper" <skylor4@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Capacitive fuel probe errors?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
>
> Tetraethyl lead does absolutely nothing to protect the
> valves, other reduce the knock index of the fuel.
> Beliefs that leaded fues somehow "lubricates" the top
> end, valves, etc. are absolutely false and based on
> many years of old wives tales! Here's a good article
> on lead myths:
>
> http://www.avweb.com/news/columns/182149-1.html
>
> Skylor
>
> --- Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com> wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears
> > <sears@searnet.com>
>
> > > And *finally* with a newly rebuilt engine, here is
> > article by EAA on use
> > of
> > > autogas:
> > > http://www.eaa.org/education/fuel/overhaul.html
> >
> > Yes, be sure to use 100LL during the break in
> > period. That adds a nice
> > coating of lead to the top end parts during the
> > break in. After that, it
> > doesn't take much 100LL to maintain that coating.
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV list history |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> >Besides those already mentioned, I vote for Horton, Rozendaal, Jim Sears
and
> >the ever-delightful Jerry Springer! Not to mention Mr. Draw-lee hisself
who
> >makes it all uncommercially possible...
> >
> >Mark- Listing since '98 with a flying RV as a result & do not archive!
> >
> Mark, thanks...I think.:-)
> It would be interesting to see how many of the originals are still here
> on the list. I think I joined up aound the end of 1994.
> I cringe when I put my name in the search field and come up with over
> 1000 posts. I would hate to think what it would look
> like without the do not archive.
>
> Jerry
Same here, Jerry. I came on board in 1996 when I retired from IBM. I
bought my first subscription to the internet and signed onto the RV-list
within three days. I've been on board, ever since. On several occasions,
I've almost dropped off the list due to flaming and knowing I didn't really
need the list anymore; but, I do still learn a little from it, such as the
current discussion on ANR headsets. With that, I stick around. Now, I do a
lot of my answering off line. No flaming, that way. :-) Still, it's a
lot of fun to stir up the pot a little in a contraversial subject like
whether to match drill or not. A local builder friend of mine really enjoys
those little ventures I get into. :-)
Today, I'm going to be watching the builders constructing my new shop. I
built Scooter in my garage; but, my wife's toy, a '02 Mustang GT
convertible, is in the way. Needless to say, she's not going to let me move
her car outside for an airplane! My new 16X32 shop will be big enough to
allow me to work comfortably and not be overkill, either. I'll have heating
and cooling, a luxury I didn't have before. I'm hoping to do some work for
others in the shop. That's why I'm building a nice one. What the heck. If
that doesn't pan out, I can always use it later to store my wife's clothes.
She'd like to have a larger closet. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Waiting for the building and wings)
EAA Tech Counselor
do not archive
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm@yahoo.com>
Listers. Im seriously thinking of relocating to South Carolina and would be
interested in hearing from anyone in SC about the tax implications of owning
an airplane in that state. My initial look at the property tax rates does
not comfort me. Please reply off list.Thanks
Fran Malczynski
RV-6 N594EF
Olcott, NY
ebbfmm@yahoo.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Strapping down batteries |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Mickey,
We used a couple of 1.5" wide velcrow straps. Has worked great.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A - 260 hrs
>From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Strapping down batteries
>Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 18:05:41 +0200
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>Hi,
>
>Are there any clever ways to fix batteries to a
>battery "box"? My battery box is not exactly
>a box, but a flat piece of .125" with some angle
>around the edges of the batteries to keep them
>from moving forward and back or side to side.
>
>My fallback is the standard Van's method of using
>a U channel with a pair of long bolts, but I'm
>curious if there are better ways. The batteries
>will be behind my baggage compartment, and in
>the event of an off field landing, I don't want
>them flying forward.
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
There are several variables.
Where is SC are you considering?
Contact me off-line ...
(email or phone)
James
803-238-2113
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Francis
> Malczynski
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 7:15 AM
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Relocation
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm@yahoo.com>
>
> Listers. Im seriously thinking of relocating to South Carolina
> and would be
> interested in hearing from anyone in SC about the tax
> implications of owning
> an airplane in that state. My initial look at the property tax rates does
> not comfort me. Please reply off list.Thanks
>
> Fran Malczynski
> RV-6 N594EF
> Olcott, NY
> ebbfmm@yahoo.com
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | 2 magenetometers, Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
I am planning to ditch the electric spinning gryos AI and DG in favor of a
second EFIS. Each would require a remote sensing magnetometer. Can I
place these side by side or one on top of the other? If they must be
separated, how far? If anybody has already done this, results? Pictures?
I have only one report on the FIX to the Dynon RFI problem. Has anyone
else installed the "dongle" and gotten rid of the interference?
Cross posted to RV and Aeroelectric lists.
Thanks in advance.
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Swales contractor to the
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mail to: <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Timing Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
The Report, Part 1 & more questions
Based on what I learned here, I checked the trigger bolt gap, and it was
probably closer to .040 maybe, .050. (the spec is ..025+/- .010) I
tightened it up and my timing advanced ~ 5 degrees. Well at least, I think
that is what caused the change, nothing else changed except the calender 1
day, but this has been a bit of an intermitent problem. Now I am running 20
DBTDC and 37 DBTDC. The runup and idle are noticibly when running on the
Lightspeed only.
I am still 5 deg from where I am supposed to be and where, based on a long
conversation with the builder, the airplane has been most of it's life. My
understanding of a trigger coil is it would either work or not work, it is
hard to imagine a scenario where it gets "weak?" This is puzzling too,
because the trigger bolt gap has not changed, there is no wear, or no sign
of any foriegn object damage in there anywhere. I am pretty certain That I
dont have an intake leak, the airplane is running on the rich side at idle
So what is going on? did moving the trigger bolt just happen to coincide
with some other intermittent probem?
My plan for now is to continue to fly and carefully monitor the mag drops,
at idle. and 1800. If I see any variation, I will check that against
mixture at idle. Anyother good ideas?
Thanks to everyone for the information.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Timing Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Doug,
I have been working on a new 6A that will get inspected next week and we had
prblems also with the gap. I found that the closer the gap is the earlier
it will fire so we closed it to the minimum (.016) and it seems to fire much
better. Sometimes the magnetic strength of the interrupter bolt can can.
Not very often but it can happen. You may want to just get another bolt,
replace the existing one and see if that helps. I also know that on the
earlier models the interrupter colis are mounted on a plate bolted to the
case flange. That mounting plate is flat and has been known to bend
slightly thus changing the timing. Anyways, just a couple of ideas.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightspeed Timing Question
>Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 08:42:42 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
>The Report, Part 1 & more questions
>
>Based on what I learned here, I checked the trigger bolt gap, and it was
>probably closer to .040 maybe, .050. (the spec is ..025+/- .010) I
>tightened it up and my timing advanced ~ 5 degrees. Well at least, I think
>that is what caused the change, nothing else changed except the calender 1
>day, but this has been a bit of an intermitent problem. Now I am running
>20
>DBTDC and 37 DBTDC. The runup and idle are noticibly when running on the
>Lightspeed only.
>
>I am still 5 deg from where I am supposed to be and where, based on a long
>conversation with the builder, the airplane has been most of it's life. My
>understanding of a trigger coil is it would either work or not work, it is
>hard to imagine a scenario where it gets "weak?" This is puzzling too,
>because the trigger bolt gap has not changed, there is no wear, or no sign
>of any foriegn object damage in there anywhere. I am pretty certain That
>I
>dont have an intake leak, the airplane is running on the rich side at idle
>So what is going on? did moving the trigger bolt just happen to coincide
>with some other intermittent probem?
>
>My plan for now is to continue to fly and carefully monitor the mag drops,
>at idle. and 1800. If I see any variation, I will check that against
>mixture at idle. Anyother good ideas?
>
>Thanks to everyone for the information.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
>
Lose those love handles! MSN Fitness shows you two moves to slim your waist.
http://fitness.msn.com/articles/feeds/article.aspx?dept=exercise&article=et_pv_030104_lovehandles
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
In a message dated 4/29/2004 12:09:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Vanremog writes:
> Yes, but you can look forward to returning them to Lightspeed Aviation for
> intermittent cords, broken stirrups and sacked out headband springs. The good
> thing though is that they will do all of these repairs for
> FREE because they
> really stand behind their products.
Ditto that. My experience to the letter.
Bill B "Stormy"
380 hrs / 6 years on Lightspeeds
Message 10
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| Subject: | Lightspeed headset for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Danclovic" <pauldan4@netzero.net>
Listers,
I have a set of Lightspeed 15XL's, never used, still in the box I'll
let go for $250. ($335 in ACS Catalog) and I'll ship in USA.
20 dB passive and 16-18 dB active.
I won them 2 years ago as a door prize at an ACS open house and
I can't use them because:
A: I'm 6'3" and the thicker than average headband comes close to the canopy
B: The boom and plug wires are left side only
If interested, contact off list to
Paul Danclovic
pauldan4@netzero.net
RV-8A Waiting on an engine from Bart
Do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
> Yes, but you can look forward to returning them to Lightspeed Aviation
for
> intermittent cords, broken stirrups and sacked out headband springs. The
good
> thing though is that they will do all of these repairs for
> FREE because they
> really stand behind their products.
>Ditto that. My experience to the letter.
DITTO DITTO.
I have a 6 yr old pair of L.S. 20k with the same issues.
Sent back for repair.
http://travel.msn.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed headset for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I am as tall as you and use the LightSpeeds (25's). When I ordered my seats
from Oregon Aero I had them trim off 2" off the bottom pilot seat. Sure
glad I did that, other wise I would be hitting canopy way too eaisly.
At 01:06 PM 4/29/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Danclovic" <pauldan4@netzero.net>
>
>Listers,
>
>I have a set of Lightspeed 15XL's, never used, still in the box I'll
>let go for $250. ($335 in ACS Catalog) and I'll ship in USA.
>20 dB passive and 16-18 dB active.
>I won them 2 years ago as a door prize at an ACS open house and
>I can't use them because:
>A: I'm 6'3" and the thicker than average headband comes close to the canopy
>B: The boom and plug wires are left side only
>If interested, contact off list to
>
>Paul Danclovic
>pauldan4@netzero.net
>RV-8A Waiting on an engine from Bart
>
>Do not archive
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 13
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| Subject: | baffle sealing fabric - measurements. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
1. What is the recommended gap between the aft edge of the cowling air
inlets and the forward edge of the baffles in the forward top inlets?
2. What is the recommended gap between the lower inlet and the airbox?
3. What is the recommended overlap of the sealing fabric over the (aluminum)
baffles?
4. What is the recommended overlap over the fiberglass side of the inlets?
Thanks,
Amit.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Well, It's finally time for me to chime in again with my nearly useless
info!
I have one of each, DC 13.4 (with the Headsets, Inc. ANR) and one Lightspeed
25.
Honestly, the LS's are great for just plain sitting (still) for long
periods, but not good for much else IMHO.
I pretty much use the DC's exclusively, even for XC trips, the ANR is great,
and don't bother my head, but then again, my brain isn't as large as others!
I'm 6'1", and the LS's bang the canopy in all but smooth flight. Also,
during lots of wifferdills, the LS's simply won't stay put! They try to
exit my head and nearly fall off.
Add that to the fact that the mike boom is a flimsy little thing that
doesn't easily move for donning in the right seat of my -6, they pretty much
don't get used. Also, I'm harder than most on headsets, and the LS's just
aren't holding up well at all from a quality standpoint.
Now, that being said, if you are not too tall, extremely carefull with your
headset, and like lots of plastic, the LS's are really great in sound
quality. That I can agree with! They are also comfortable as all heck when
sitting still on the ground, but not so good hitting the canopy and trying
to fall off your head during some good aerobatics!
The DC's are as said before, built like a tank, but not so good for people
with larger ears or bigger noggins. Until I win the lottery and can afford
two BOSE headsets, I'll gladly stick with my DC's. I've tried side by side
comparisions on just about everything out there, and yes there are better
ANR's, but the step from plain old Passives to the DC ANR is amazing enough
for my wallet!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Eric Parlow
Subject: Re: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
> Yes, but you can look forward to returning them to Lightspeed Aviation
for
> intermittent cords, broken stirrups and sacked out headband springs. The
good
> thing though is that they will do all of these repairs for
> FREE because they
> really stand behind their products.
>Ditto that. My experience to the letter.
DITTO DITTO.
I have a 6 yr old pair of L.S. 20k with the same issues.
Sent back for repair.
http://travel.msn.com
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell@door.net>
Hi All,
I painted my RV4 using Randolph Products Randacryl Acrylic Lacquer. I bought
from the last batch Randolph made. Before Poly-Fiber bought them Randolph
sold off the remaining stock to a couple in the mid-West. I bought 3 quarts
M-9522 Tennessee Red from them. They do not have any more. Poly-Fiber in
their acquisition never received the formulas. Does anyone on the list know
where I can get some M-9522 Tennessee Red and B-0161 thinner so I can finish
my paint job on my RV4?
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
N23BB
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 16
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04/29/2004 03:54:57 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: tacaruth@ralcorp.com
Hi All,
What are others using to hold wires on wiring runs in the fuselage area?
Would sticky wire-tie holders provide sufficient holding or would they come
loose after a while? Should one use Adel clamps? What is the recommended
spacing between holders?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 4/29/04 11:28:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
SportAV8R@aol.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 4/29/2004 12:09:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Vanremog
> writes:
>
> >Yes, but you can look forward to returning them to Lightspeed Aviation for
> >intermittent cords, broken stirrups and sacked out headband springs. The
> good
> >thing though is that they will do all of these repairs for
> >FREE because they
> >really stand behind their products.
>
> Ditto that. My experience to the letter.
>
> Bill B "Stormy"
> 380 hrs / 6 years on Lightspeeds
>
>
Fellow listers,
I had intermittent cords on both my Lightspeed 20XLs at almost the same time
-- about 2 years of service -- and called the company. I told them I was
capable of replacing the cords if they would supply parts. They promptly sent
me
two complete systems up to the headsets which were very easy to replace --
just unscrew and unplug a tiny connector. Took only maybe ten minutes. It
looked like the new parts were improved to help reduce the possibility of the
problem happening again. All in all, I have been very happy with my Lightspeeds.
FWIW.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (almost ready for final assembly)
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Strapping down batteries |
--> RV-List message posted by: UFOBUCK@aol.com
In a message dated 4/29/2004 7:26:30 AM Central Standard Time,
crowbotham@hotmail.com writes:
> We used a couple of 1.5" wide velcrow straps. Has worked great.
A couple of 1.5" pieces of velcro holding down a 15# battery that might come
loose in rough air, nose over or akro.
YOU GOT TO BE KIDDING !
BClary
Message 19
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| Subject: | Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Lightspeed's customer service is second to none. I was having some problems
with the mic on my 25XL while riding with friends to Sun N Fun 2002 and
stopped by their booth. They offered to look at them at their hotel that
night but weren't really equipped to do much. When I checked back the next
day they said they had never seen the glue fail on the earcups before so
rather than swap the mic they decided to give me a brand new set. Sometime
after I left their booth it dawned on me that the headset had been thru my
crash and had been soaked in gas and fire retardant foam. No wonder the glue
and mic failed. I'm surprised it worked at all. I didn't have the heart to
tell them that but I did leave the show with a new 30-3G set. So now my pax
can use the 25XL. Ya gotta love 'em.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 4/29/04 11:28:04 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> SportAV8R@aol.com writes:
>
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
> >
> > In a message dated 4/29/2004 12:09:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > Vanremog
> > writes:
> >
> > >Yes, but you can look forward to returning them to Lightspeed
> > >Aviation for
> > >intermittent cords, broken stirrups and sacked out
> headband springs. The
> > good
> > >thing though is that they will do all of these repairs for
> > >FREE because they
> > >really stand behind their products.
> >
> > Ditto that. My experience to the letter.
> >
> > Bill B "Stormy"
> > 380 hrs / 6 years on Lightspeeds
> >
> >
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I had intermittent cords on both my Lightspeed 20XLs at
> almost the same time
> -- about 2 years of service -- and called the company. I
> told them I was
> capable of replacing the cords if they would supply parts.
> They promptly sent me
> two complete systems up to the headsets which were very easy
> to replace --
> just unscrew and unplug a tiny connector. Took only maybe
> ten minutes. It
> looked like the new parts were improved to help reduce the
> possibility of the
> problem happening again. All in all, I have been very happy
> with my Lightspeeds.
> FWIW.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (almost ready for final assembly)
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Strapping down batteries |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 06:07 PM 4/29/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: UFOBUCK@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 4/29/2004 7:26:30 AM Central Standard Time,
>crowbotham@hotmail.com writes:
>
> > We used a couple of 1.5" wide velcrow straps. Has worked great.
>
>A couple of 1.5" pieces of velcro holding down a 15# battery that might come
>loose in rough air, nose over or akro.
>YOU GOT TO BE KIDDING !
Typically, in commercial aircraft, you design for something like
10 g's forward, 4 g's up, 7 g's down, and about 2 g's sideways. This is for
objects that might come loose and hurt someone in an accident. A battery is
a critical component, so you would want to add a bit more margin to it,
especially in an RV which will have routine flight loads that could be more
than these numbers.
Automobiles often use 8 g's in the horizontal plane and 4 g's in
the vertical axis as a design criterion.
You would also want to stay away from materials that could be
weakened by the battery electrolyte without obviously showing damage. Nylon
would thus be a bad choice as it could become very weak, but look just fine.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Wire Holders |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Tom,
In my view, the answer is both, and then some.
Adel clamps are ideal for securing larger wire bundles to structure. Smaller bundles,
such as we are likely to use are best attached using much lighter nylon
clamps. Between clamps, such as from one bulkhead to the next, I use wax (dacron)
tie cord every few inches to firmly bundle the wires together. No need
to worry that the cord will eventually come loose if it is attached properly using
a clove hitch followed by a square knot. The specifics of the knots are
outlined in AC 43 but a simple google search will reveal any number of boy scout
websites that use animation to illustrate how to properly make a clove hitch.
Tie cord is used extensively in military and commercial aircraft wire bundles.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
What are others using to hold wires on wiring runs in the fuselage area?
Would sticky wire-tie holders provide sufficient holding or would they come
loose after a while? Should one use Adel clamps? What is the recommended
spacing between holders?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
---------------------------------
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
I was thinking about a second headset for my wife, (well for me, because she
gets to wear the Bose) and am considering these. After reading posts like
this, I have to wonder. I understand their customer service is second to
none, but I keep hearing about so many people having cord problems, mic
problems, plastic breaking, etc. Good customer service aside, what good is
a $500 pair of headsets that many people have to send back for repair?
Is this an oversimplification of these headsets, or is the quality better
than this?
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> Well, It's finally time for me to chime in again with my nearly useless
> info!
>
> I have one of each, DC 13.4 (with the Headsets, Inc. ANR) and one
Lightspeed
> 25.
>
> Honestly, the LS's are great for just plain sitting (still) for long
> periods, but not good for much else IMHO.
>
> I pretty much use the DC's exclusively, even for XC trips, the ANR is
great,
> and don't bother my head, but then again, my brain isn't as large as
others!
> I'm 6'1", and the LS's bang the canopy in all but smooth flight. Also,
> during lots of wifferdills, the LS's simply won't stay put! They try to
> exit my head and nearly fall off.
>
> Add that to the fact that the mike boom is a flimsy little thing that
> doesn't easily move for donning in the right seat of my -6, they pretty
much
> don't get used. Also, I'm harder than most on headsets, and the LS's just
> aren't holding up well at all from a quality standpoint.
>
> Now, that being said, if you are not too tall, extremely carefull with
your
> headset, and like lots of plastic, the LS's are really great in sound
> quality. That I can agree with! They are also comfortable as all heck when
> sitting still on the ground, but not so good hitting the canopy and trying
> to fall off your head during some good aerobatics!
>
> The DC's are as said before, built like a tank, but not so good for people
> with larger ears or bigger noggins. Until I win the lottery and can
afford
> two BOSE headsets, I'll gladly stick with my DC's. I've tried side by
side
> comparisions on just about everything out there, and yes there are better
> ANR's, but the step from plain old Passives to the DC ANR is amazing
enough
> for my wallet!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
>
> do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Eric Parlow
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Noise Canceling Headsets - Was Stop the Noise
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
>
>
> > Yes, but you can look forward to returning them to Lightspeed Aviation
> for
> > intermittent cords, broken stirrups and sacked out headband springs.
The
> good
> > thing though is that they will do all of these repairs for
> > FREE because they
> > really stand behind their products.
>
> >Ditto that. My experience to the letter.
>
> DITTO DITTO.
> I have a 6 yr old pair of L.S. 20k with the same issues.
> Sent back for repair.
>
> http://travel.msn.com
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Wire Holders |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
For single wires or small cables I just used red RTV. Dab a bit on the aluminum
and squish the wire into it. For larger wires or cables I used the plastic
tie-wrap anchors that you mentioned but I got the kind with no stick-um on them.
I scuff up the aluminum, then scuff up the plastic then stick-em with red
RTV.
The adhesive pads that most of those anchors come with will pop off after the first
warm day.
tacaruth@ralcorp.com wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: tacaruth@ralcorp.com
Hi All,
What are others using to hold wires on wiring runs in the fuselage area?
Would sticky wire-tie holders provide sufficient holding or would they come
loose after a while? Should one use Adel clamps? What is the recommended
spacing between holders?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
IDENTIFICATION
Regis#: 999SB Make/Model: RV6 Description: RV-6
Date: 04/28/2004 Time: 2040
Event Type: Incident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N
Damage: Unknown
LOCATION
City: FREDERICKSBURG State: VA Country: US
DESCRIPTION
ACFT DEPARTED WITH THE TOW BAR ATTACHED TO THE LANDING GEAR, ACFT RETURNED
AND LANDED SHORT OF THE RUNWAY, SHANNON AIRPORT, FREDERICKSBURG, VA
INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0
# Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
WEATHER: UNK
do not archive
Jerry
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Wire Holders |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 04/29/2004 2:56:42 PM Central Standard Time,
tacaruth@ralcorp.com writes:
Would sticky wire-tie holders provide sufficient holding or would they come
loose after a while? Should one use Adel clamps? What is the recommended
spacing between holders?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ever worn a fake mustache to a holloweeny party? If you don't want to worry
about it, don't trust the adhesive and screw/bolt/rivet that sucker down- you
won't sweat when the fuse blows or wake up in the middle of the night
wonderin............
Mark do not archive
Message 26
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| Subject: | Care to recommend some workshop furnishings? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Becker" <ctbecker@charter.net>
The EAA1000 table looks like mine, however, I used 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF
(medium density fiberboard) for the top. Its cheap, and is very easy to
replace when you drill a few too many holes in it. Its up against a wall
and the shelf is great for storing larger skins. I also built a couple of
adjustable saw horses (my own design) that allow me to set the height from
30 to 44 inches. On that I put a couple of cheap and light interior doors
for a work table. Its solid and very portable. A couple of pieces of
almost free carpet pad scraps from Lowes finished up the work table.
For a compressor. Harbor Freight has a 4.5 HP 21 Gal compressor that works
fine for one guy, and its only $169 (including shipping).
Charlie Becker
N464CB(res) RV8A(e)
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David E. Nelson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Care to recommend some workshop furnishings?
--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi Ed,
I built a set of EAA Chapter 1000 tables. So far I'm very satisfied with
them
as they're sturdy, moderately heavy, but not bulky. The supplies you get
will
build two tables. I would highly recommend that you make a jig (out of some
2x4) for the screw patterns and glue all joints with wood glue. Also,
having
two drills (one with a pilot hole drill bit and the other with a phillips
bit)
was really handy. Tip: Use some bath bar soap (Irish Spring, Safeguard,
etc)
on the long wood screws and they'll go in a _lot_ easier and not tend to
strip
out the philips head. I also used the deck screws that come with their own
phillips bit.
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm
As for compressor, I traded up from an oil-less unit to a 25 Gal, 110V, 5
HP,
belt driven, oil compressor and have been very happy with it. Handles all
my
drilling and priming needs w/o any problems....and I still have my hearing!
;)
Regards,
/\/elson
Austin, TX
RV-7A - Waiting on the wings....
On Mon, 26 Apr 2004, ed wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
>
> In preperation for starting my rv-8a qb, I was going to set up a
table
> to be my work surface. In particular I am wondering if it makes sense to
> have a bench up against a wall, or will I be better served by something on
> wheels so I can back it away and work on things from all angles. Since I
> will probbably be building this myself, does anyone have a recommendation
on
> what size I should make it?
>
>
> Also any recommendations for what size air compressor to get?
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
I guess having a tail wheel tow bar is easier to miss than a nose wheel tow
bar. I assume there was some connection between the attached tow bar and
the short landing - carrier arrested?
Do Not Archive
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Oh oh!!!
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> IDENTIFICATION
> Regis#: 999SB Make/Model: RV6 Description: RV-6
> Date: 04/28/2004 Time: 2040
>
> Event Type: Incident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N
> Damage: Unknown
>
> LOCATION
> City: FREDERICKSBURG State: VA Country: US
>
> DESCRIPTION
> ACFT DEPARTED WITH THE TOW BAR ATTACHED TO THE LANDING GEAR, ACFT
RETURNED
> AND LANDED SHORT OF THE RUNWAY, SHANNON AIRPORT, FREDERICKSBURG, VA
>
> INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0
> # Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0
Unk:
> # Pass: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0
Unk:
> # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0
Unk:
>
> WEATHER: UNK
>
>
> do not archive
> Jerry
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: What size hole for step? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan Reeves <williamdanielreeves@yahoo.com>
I noticed the discrepancy between the Plan's and the instructions this week as
well. The diameter of the step is exactly 1 1/2". I drilled to the smaller dimension
and the step won't fit. I need to enlarge it to 1 5/8. 1 5/8 is the
number...
Dan
RV-7A
Cammie Patch <cammie@sunvalley.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cammie Patch"
I need to drill the hole in F-725 rib for the step (which I haven't ordered
yet). The plans say to drill it out with a 1 5/8" hole saw, but the prints
say to drill out to 1 1/2". I want to use a pie cutter to drill this hole,
what size should the finished diameter be?
Cammie
RV-7a
---------------------------------
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
When I do a registration search it says it is an RV-6A. The SB in the
registration number caught my attention
first as I thought it may be Sam Bs airplane :-)
Jerry
Ed Anderson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
>I guess having a tail wheel tow bar is easier to miss than a nose wheel tow
>bar. I assume there was some connection between the attached tow bar and
>the short landing - carrier arrested?
>
>Do Not Archive
>Ed Anderson
>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>Matthews, NC
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Oh oh!!!
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>>
>>IDENTIFICATION
>> Regis#: 999SB Make/Model: RV6 Description: RV-6
>> Date: 04/28/2004 Time: 2040
>>
>> Event Type: Incident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N
>> Damage: Unknown
>>
>>LOCATION
>> City: FREDERICKSBURG State: VA Country: US
>>
>>DESCRIPTION
>> ACFT DEPARTED WITH THE TOW BAR ATTACHED TO THE LANDING GEAR, ACFT
>>
>>
>RETURNED
>
>
>> AND LANDED SHORT OF THE RUNWAY, SHANNON AIRPORT, FREDERICKSBURG, VA
>>
>>INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0
>> # Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0
>>
>>
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
I was wondering about the model as most folks with tail wheels don't
frequently need/use a tow bar. The good thing of course, is apparently no
one was injured.
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oh oh!!!
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> When I do a registration search it says it is an RV-6A. The SB in the
> registration number caught my attention
> first as I thought it may be Sam Bs airplane :-)
>
> Jerry
>
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >
> >I guess having a tail wheel tow bar is easier to miss than a nose wheel
tow
> >bar. I assume there was some connection between the attached tow bar and
> >the short landing - carrier arrested?
> >
> >Do Not Archive
> >Ed Anderson
> >RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> >Matthews, NC
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Oh oh!!!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
> >>
> >>IDENTIFICATION
> >> Regis#: 999SB Make/Model: RV6 Description: RV-6
> >> Date: 04/28/2004 Time: 2040
> >>
> >> Event Type: Incident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing:
N
> >> Damage: Unknown
> >>
> >>LOCATION
> >> City: FREDERICKSBURG State: VA Country: US
> >>
> >>DESCRIPTION
> >> ACFT DEPARTED WITH THE TOW BAR ATTACHED TO THE LANDING GEAR, ACFT
> >>
> >>
> >RETURNED
> >
> >
> >> AND LANDED SHORT OF THE RUNWAY, SHANNON AIRPORT, FREDERICKSBURG, VA
> >>
> >>INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0
> >> # Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0
> >>
> >>
>
>
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Jerry Springer wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> When I do a registration search it says it is an RV-6A. The SB in the
> registration number caught my attention
> first as I thought it may be Sam Bs airplane :-)
>
> Jerry
Hey..........thanks for the vote of confidence, Jerry!!????!! :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, N399SB, safely tucked into the hangar, towbar intact)
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>>
>>When I do a registration search it says it is an RV-6A. The SB in the
>>registration number caught my attention
>>first as I thought it may be Sam Bs airplane :-)
>>
>>Jerry
>>
>>
>
>
>Hey..........thanks for the vote of confidence, Jerry!!????!! :-)
>
>Sam Buchanan (RV-6, N399SB, safely tucked into the hangar, towbar intact)
>
>
>
LOL!! you have to admit that 999SB reg number is close to your 399SB. :-)
Jerry
do not archive
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: baffle sealing fabric - measurements. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 4/29/2004 12:43:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
amitdagan@hotmail.com writes:
1. What is the recommended gap between the aft edge of the cowling air
inlets and the forward edge of the baffles in the forward top inlets?
2. What is the recommended gap between the lower inlet and the airbox?
3. What is the recommended overlap of the sealing fabric over the (aluminum)
baffles?
4. What is the recommended overlap over the fiberglass side of the inlets?
====================================
1. 3/8" (10mm)
2. 3/8" (10mm)
3. 3/4" min (19mm)
4. 1/2" (13mm)
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 689 hrs)
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